Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[mc.preist@gmail.com]

On Jan 4, 12:05 am, "Homer J Simpson" <nob...@nowhere.com> wrote:

"Meat Plow" <m...@meatplow.local> wrote in messagenewsan.2007.01.03.11.45.09.537000@nntp.sun-meatplow.local...

The cord would not hiss when it's broken.Ah, yes, it will. Sometime they'll even shoot flames out.

It does get extremely hot (the cord). Also a certain part of the
adapter gets hot when it hisses.
Doesn't matter! It's done. It's dead, i need another AC Adapter.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:enggnv$frp$1@inews.gazeta.pl...

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:rrLmh.9853$RL5.2451@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...




Two things spring to mind here. The first is to just ask the owner what
exactly he does ( or wants to do ) with the setup. If he is looking to
find
some very high output 'sweet-spot' sound from the rig, then you will need
to
be concerned about output level, impedance matching, and the overall
sound
you are going to get from replacement drivers. It is also important to
know
the instrument that's going to be played through it, and how. It's no
good
having a set of stiffly suspended lead guitar speakers, if it's going to
have a bass guitar put through it. Likewise, a Yamaha organ at afternoon
tea
dances, is a world away from a synthesiser at a rock concert. I have
these
conversations all the time with musicians, and they can be a fickle lot,
so
best to understand what's needed right from the off.

The second thing to remember is that speaker impedance is by no means an
absolute. It is a figure quoted for a particular speaker with a
particular
set of test drive characteristics, and is especially sensitive to
frequency.
If the owner is never intending winding the rig right up to full power,
then
8 ohms of amp into 4 ohms of cab, is not going to be any particularly big
deal - especially for a valve amp. The output tranny will stand
considerable
overload abuse anyway in my experience, and you've got to work hard to
damage a set of 4 valves through over-dissipation at their anodes. A 100
watt amp doesn't come close to delivering an average power of 100 watts
to
the speakers. It might just get there on peaks. Doing it the other way
around, will also not usually cause a problem in the situations that this
equipment is normally used in. 8 ohms of amp into 16 ohms of cab, *may*
appear a little quieter, but even this is not a given. If the owner is
not
going to be trying to squeeze every last dB of sound level out of the
rig,
then he just needs to turn it up a bit to compensate.

In theory, both conditions will result in a deviation from the 'ideal'
sound, and I'm sure that there are audiophiles on some of the audio
groups,
who would tell you that such a mis-match is a cardinal sin, and that they
would be able to hear it, but trust me - you, I or the average modern
musician, would not hear anything untoward. So the bottom line is yes, by
all means be aware of the *potential* problems, but don't worry yourself
into an early grave about them. Equipment mismatches in the rock musician
world, is the norm rather than exception ( well, perhaps not quite, but
you
take my point ...). Talk to the owner !

Arfa



I'm trying to work through the following , set as a hypothetical

An amp of 100 watts rating, set for 8 ohms powering one 100 watt , 8 ohm
speaker in a box..
Then same amp powering 4 off of same speaker type wired to give 8 ohm
overall in a cab.
For the same volume setting of the amp then the same amount of audio out
of
each set up , its just the 4 way one will be able to go into peak
overdrives
much more comfortably, or is there other differences ?

For a start, four times the surface area of speaker cone, is going to shift
four times the volume of air ... I guess this will likely increase the
perceived volume level, for the same volume control setting in the same
room. It would make an interesting experiment. I'm not sure that I see where
you're coming from with the "peak overdrives" comment. Explain more please
??

Arfa

 

[N Cook]

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:myTmh.52126$HV6.28579@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...

For a start, four times the surface area of speaker cone, is going to
shift
four times the volume of air ... I guess this will likely increase the
perceived volume level, for the same volume control setting in the same
room. It would make an interesting experiment. I'm not sure that I see
where
you're coming from with the "peak overdrives" comment. Explain more please
??

Arfa

assuming 2 series 8 ohm // 2 series 8 ohm and current I ,
voltage V applied to the single case then 0.5I and 0.5V for each in the 4
off case so power of .5I x .5V or 1/4 power in each or exactly the same as
the single case , overall.
assuming linear 1/x power in leads to 1/x audio power out, which is probably
not the case, ie non-linear conversion

I don't know about overdriving as I'm not a muso but I assumed it was what
many liked doing, taking it to 11 and all that.

 

[N Cook]

N Cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:enh6fb$lon$1@inews.gazeta.pl...

How to separate the 2 main body parts.
I have to get to the speaker and have so far only removed one screw.
They are 2 inch long, twin start, that bite too much in the bulk of the
plastic.
I'm aware of this situation before, in other kit, and the screw shank
snapping due to the excess torque required to undo, not just the first
turn
but perhaps half the thread length. Previously I've heated the head of the
screws with a soldering iron to partially soften the plastic , then when
extracted, drill out the plastic a little.
But these are recessed 8 inches down.
So is it a matter of the shaft of a long philips screw driver with the
plastic handle removed , replaced with something metalic and a soldering
iron heater slid over the shaft to heat the recessed screw.
Anyone tried extending an impact driver to break the binding ?
Any other ideas ?

whoops
just as i'd found a soldering iron heater to slide over a long philips I
decided to see if there was access via the front grill, bolts without spring
washers so surprising none were actually loose, accessible from the front.

No apparent reason for failure of the speaker and cold tests of the driver
trannies look ok, not shorted to DC rails.
Was working normally , not overdriven according to the owner . Then next
power up there was horn output but no bass driver, just as though a wire had
come loose, no big thump or noise.

 

[Scottie Mack]

On this particular model, the bulb MUSTt be removed by taking off the
top cover as the bulb and holder is one assembly. It is held into lamp
housing by two nylon clips. (don't flex these back too far when
removing as they will break off)
The bulb/holder is a Panasonic part and should be available through
http://www.partstore.com/

And as with all electronic devices UNPLUG it first.




--
Scottie Mack

 

[kip]

Put 2 together that will get you within 2 - 3 percent of the value...
Done it many times...
kip

"Dani" <greeben@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167835054.679250.40320@i12g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I'm looking for a no longer available part for an RCA 52" rear
projection TV, Model # D52W19BYX1 Chassis # ITC 222. Location # CL031
on part # 264102 P/S Deflection PWB, .0087 uf @ 2000 vdc.
Globalsemi, Tritronicsinc, & Vancebaldwin show NLA. Where can I get
one? It had a bad connection, & burnt a hole in the board. I repaired
the board, but need a good capacitor. I can't locate a substitute.
Thanks, Dani.

 

[webpa]

M Berger wrote:

That's less than the price of a decent catalytic converter,
and Midas is usually very high on labor costs. In fact,
our local Midas quotes $ 300 and up. I wonder what they
really did to your car?

Replaced the converter and about one foot of pipe with a generic

small-engine unit (parts cost ~US$50). I still have the old one.
Engine then passed the emissions test with better-than-new-engine
numbers for CO, NO, and HC. Has passed each subsequent test (4 of
them) with the same results. Maybe I hit Midas on a slow day?

 

[Deke]

Sony IS a four letter word.....

 

[Malissa Baldwin]

Deke wrote:

Sony IS a four letter word.....

Not really

It's an abbreviation for

Standard
Oil of
New
York.

 

[kip]

So is Deke...
"Deke" <no spam@starband.net> wrote in message
news:a136c$459c431b$943f4036$29273@STARBAND.NET...

Sony IS a four letter word.....

 

Malissa Baldwin wrote:

Deke wrote:
Sony IS a four letter word.....

Not really

It's an abbreviation for

Standard
Oil of
New
York.

No Malicia. Sony is describing the next release of hardware fixes.
"Soon, Only Not Yet"

GG

 

[Sjouke Burry]

Deke wrote:

Sony IS a four letter word.....


So are all four letter words wrong???

 

[Joerg]

hondgm@yahoo.com wrote:

How are the Instek DSOs, in particular the "portables" like GDS-2064,
in comparison to comparable Tek 'scopes like the TDS2004B? Tek has
always had a good reputation, but the Instek is considerably cheaper.
Is it the name you're paying for, or are the Tektronix models really
that much better (reliability, performance, etc)?

Don't know but I currently have the "pleasure" to use a newer low end
Tek scope (TDS220 or something like that) at a client. To say it mildly,
I am not enthused. The probes that came with it are a joke compared to
the Tek probes in my lab and the knobs and buttons feel loose and cheap.

Ok, I am a bit biased here because I don't like digital scopes much but
on this thing I am always afraid something will break off if I touch it.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1167872515.681350.44010@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...

No Malicia. Sony is describing the next release of hardware fixes.
"Soon, Only Not Yet"

IIRC it's a variation of Sunny.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:enh1tm$t0c$1@inews.gazeta.pl...

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:myTmh.52126$HV6.28579@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...




For a start, four times the surface area of speaker cone, is going to
shift
four times the volume of air ... I guess this will likely increase the
perceived volume level, for the same volume control setting in the same
room. It would make an interesting experiment. I'm not sure that I see
where
you're coming from with the "peak overdrives" comment. Explain more
please
??

Arfa



assuming 2 series 8 ohm // 2 series 8 ohm and current I ,
voltage V applied to the single case then 0.5I and 0.5V for each in the 4
off case so power of .5I x .5V or 1/4 power in each or exactly the same as
the single case , overall.
assuming linear 1/x power in leads to 1/x audio power out, which is
probably
not the case, ie non-linear conversion

I don't know about overdriving as I'm not a muso but I assumed it was what
many liked doing, taking it to 11 and all that.


Ah, OK, I see where you're coming from. 4 x 100 watt speakers, series'd and

parallel'd to arrive back at 8 ohms makes a 400 watt 8 ohm cabinet, so
driving in a 100 watts, results in a dissipation of only 25 watts in each
speaker, right ? Seems a fair point.

As far as overdrive sound goes, this is normally achieved by deliberately
overdriving an early stage of the amp, and once you've achieved the degree
of overdrive sound that you want, it should remain just so over the full
range of output power of the amp, as controlled by the master gain. So if
you set up a Canned Heat " Let's Work Together " type sound ( this was
probably actually done with an external fuzz pedal on the original record,
but a similarly harsh distorted buzz saw sound can be created by preamp
overdrive ), then you could take that same sound from a village hall to the
National Indoor Arena, just by cranking the master. However, some musicians
believe that there is a particular high power output point on any given
amplifier, that generates a perfect sound ( for them ). This point is the
'sweet spot', and may be at a point where the output stage is being driven
so hard that it is going into hard clipping. This sound cannot easily be
transported between different sized venues, unless you interpose a power
absorber between the amp, and the speaker cabinet. Such devices are
commercially made, and readily available to the professional musician, and
are usually adjustable, so allowing you to drive the amp at almost full
output to hit your sweet spot, whilst attenuating the input to the cabinet
down to village hall amounts. This is why it's important to check with the
owner just what he wants to do with the rig, before making a decision on how
to proceed.

Arfa

 

[john jardine]

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:6jZmh.1978$ji1.832@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...

hondgm@yahoo.com wrote:

How are the Instek DSOs, in particular the "portables" like GDS-2064,
in comparison to comparable Tek 'scopes like the TDS2004B? Tek has
always had a good reputation, but the Instek is considerably cheaper.
Is it the name you're paying for, or are the Tektronix models really
that much better (reliability, performance, etc)?


Don't know but I currently have the "pleasure" to use a newer low end
Tek scope (TDS220 or something like that) at a client. To say it mildly,
I am not enthused. The probes that came with it are a joke compared to
the Tek probes in my lab and the knobs and buttons feel loose and cheap.

Ok, I am a bit biased here because I don't like digital scopes much but
on this thing I am always afraid something will break off if I touch it.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

(My thoughts as well. The TDS I recently tried to use had the look, feel
and build quality of a kid's toy. Must have cost 'em tuppence to
manufacture).



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

[Joerg]

john jardine wrote:

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:6jZmh.1978$ji1.832@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...

hondgm@yahoo.com wrote:


How are the Instek DSOs, in particular the "portables" like GDS-2064,
in comparison to comparable Tek 'scopes like the TDS2004B? Tek has
always had a good reputation, but the Instek is considerably cheaper.
Is it the name you're paying for, or are the Tektronix models really
that much better (reliability, performance, etc)?


Don't know but I currently have the "pleasure" to use a newer low end
Tek scope (TDS220 or something like that) at a client. To say it mildly,
I am not enthused. The probes that came with it are a joke compared to
the Tek probes in my lab and the knobs and buttons feel loose and cheap.

Ok, I am a bit biased here because I don't like digital scopes much but
on this thing I am always afraid something will break off if I touch it.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com


(My thoughts as well. The TDS I recently tried to use had the look, feel
and build quality of a kid's toy. Must have cost 'em tuppence to
manufacture).

It also has a really sluggish frame rate. Can drive you nuts when
chasing noise. Bottomline I suggested to buy a "real" scope, maybe a
nicely refurbed Tektronix 2465. Something that works.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

Thanks folks. I completely forgot about the injector seals.

Will spray for leaks using WD40 with the IAC disconnected.

Unfortunately it is impossible to disconnect each injector seperately.
There is a plenum in the way. Even if the wires come out seperately, in
this car they are hooked up three and three, I have really never
examined the harness to see, but it doesn't matter, to make any
injector specific test I believe a bunch of wires would have to be cut.


Save that till after we get alot closer to the BFH. I would not want to
sit there crimping wires back together. And believe me there is no way
to get to the plugs right on them.

I also thought of doing an RPM drop (or vacuum) check by disconnecting
plug wires, but they made that a PITA too. Not real bad, but you need a
screwdriver or something to ground the coil output during testing,
otherwise the cylinder opposite from it in the firing order will lose
firing voltage resulting in erroneous readings. This is because the
three coils' secondaries are completely floating.

As much as I like these late 80s early 90s EC management systems they
do have some difficulties in troubleshooting at times. I like it when I
am in a hurry and can just turn the key and drive even when it is 0
degrees outside. My 87 hasn't stalled for years unless something else
screwed up. Within about 40 seconds of running there are days it hit
5,000 RPM to get on the freeway (I live real close).

I think it is wonderful, the ECM system in these GMs. It is like having
a competent engine engineer under your hood at all times, and he is
busy. Constantly adjusting timing, even the setting of the weight
springs in the distributor. Constant control over the choke, well the
ersatz choke, and constantly adjusting not only the screws on your
carb, but changing the jets while you drive down the road.

Yes, it is wonderful. I think it is even more wonderful that Bosch did
it without electronics. But when it screws up, people are alot less
happy.

Anyway, in the responses thusfar I didn't see anyone take the wind of
the timing chain idea into their sails. Kinda glad.

Gonna go spray for those leaks and get back to you.

Thanks again.

JURB

 

Also, cats are not as expensive as they used to be for regular cars.
The one we put on was $36 brand new in the box.

A place like Midas probably buys by the truckload, so they might pay
say $25. If they charge you say $80 installed, they made $55 in about
20 minutes. As long as there were no other complications, you would've
been charged for them as well. The mechanic probably makes between $15
and $25 an hour. This should be billing at 3X that. It might be more in
this type of business because it can be high maintainence. Three X is
just a rule of thumb though, high cielings cost energy in the winter at
least, and mess with the bottom line.

Last cat I had put in a car was $100 at the local muffler shop, but
this was a couple of years ago. It seems there is a new manufacturer or
something out there.

JURB

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
newsan.2007.01.03.15.50.38.466000@nntp.sun-meatplow.local...

Well the OP said the LED was not lit and the supply was hissing. I
wouldn't expect that from a supply where just the cord was broken.

The hissing is arcing and burning of the insulation which is probably
carbonized.






--