Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"anonymous" <budmalcolm@warpmail.net> wrote in
news:1167277612.187543.197660@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com:

uh, george, are you sure that is not a voltage divider?
Click to expand...
Positive. It's called a "High Voltage Tripler" on the schematic, and a
picture I found on the internet calls it a tripler.
 
george I have not messed with consumer stuff very much, but I believe
the so-called triplers in TV sets disappeared quite some time ago. That
thar critter appears to me to be an integrated high voltage
transformer, (aka flyback transformer, aka FBT) The part/sub-part
(whatever) you are calling a tripler is, I believe, actually a divider
network. Note the 2 variable resistors, screen and focus. I doubt it is
bad.

Anyways, reflow any poor solder, especially in high heat areas and the
FBT pins themselves. Check any small value fusible resistors in the FBT
secondary side ckts. Look for white, ceramic heat-sink-bodied resistors
near the FBT, 1 ohm or so in value, about 1-2 watts in physical size,
(cant remember the actual ratings.) Check them with an ohmmeter. You
may have to desolder/lift one end to measure properly.

Chances are good it is either that or the FBT its self, as pointed out
earlier.

If you get the crackle of static when trying to power on, it sounds
like the HV is coming up, then going right back down again. One of the
fbt derived low voltages is fed back <i>somewhere</i>, but the fuse
resistor is open. That could be a cheap easy fix that you may be able
to locate without too much extensive troubleshooting skills or
equipment, do not overlook that possibilty.





George Jetson wrote:
"anonymous" &lt;budmalcolm@warpmail.net&gt; wrote in
news:1167277612.187543.197660@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com:

uh, george, are you sure that is not a voltage divider?

Positive. It's called a "High Voltage Tripler" on the schematic, and a
picture I found on the internet calls it a tripler.
Click to expand...
 
hey there will also be somma them thar rectum-fliers in series with the
fbt sec. &amp; them thar fusible resistors, be sure to check them too.
anonymous wrote:
george I have not messed with consumer stuff very much, but I believe
the so-called triplers in TV sets disappeared quite some time ago. That
thar critter appears to me to be an integrated high voltage
transformer, (aka flyback transformer, aka FBT) The part/sub-part
(whatever) you are calling a tripler is, I believe, actually a divider
network. Note the 2 variable resistors, screen and focus. I doubt it is
bad.

Anyways, reflow any poor solder, especially in high heat areas and the
FBT pins themselves. Check any small value fusible resistors in the FBT
secondary side ckts. Look for white, ceramic heat-sink-bodied resistors
near the FBT, 1 ohm or so in value, about 1-2 watts in physical size,
(cant remember the actual ratings.) Check them with an ohmmeter. You
may have to desolder/lift one end to measure properly.

Chances are good it is either that or the FBT its self, as pointed out
earlier.

If you get the crackle of static when trying to power on, it sounds
like the HV is coming up, then going right back down again. One of the
fbt derived low voltages is fed back <i>somewhere</i>, but the fuse
resistor is open. That could be a cheap easy fix that you may be able
to locate without too much extensive troubleshooting skills or
equipment, do not overlook that possibilty.





George Jetson wrote:
"anonymous" &lt;budmalcolm@warpmail.net&gt; wrote in
news:1167277612.187543.197660@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com:

uh, george, are you sure that is not a voltage divider?

Positive. It's called a "High Voltage Tripler" on the schematic, and a
picture I found on the internet calls it a tripler.
Click to expand...
 
"w9gb" &lt;spam_protect@arrl.net&gt; wrote in
news:UIWdnZzbJ9Ou1Q7YnZ2dnUVZ_qK3nZ2d@comcast.com:

Did you notice any leakage around the capacitor?
In other words, is this another possible "bad capacitor" fault?
Click to expand...
No leakage. I think the failure happens because of the combination of high
temperature over a long time and low quality of the capacitor.

Stig Vidar Hovland
 
On 27 Dec 2006 19:46:52 -0800, "anonymous" &lt;budmalcolm@warpmail.net&gt; wrote:

uh, george, are you sure that is not a voltage divider?
Click to expand...
He says he knows what he's doing. Leave him alone!

CWM

George Jetson wrote:
Ken Weitzel &lt;kweitzel@shaw.ca&gt; wrote in news:ibDkh.530079$5R2.359199
@pd7urf3no:



Hi..

http://tpub.com/neets/book7/27m.htm

Ken



Thanks for the info. I tested it, and the tripler is bad. It's shorted
between the primary and the secondary. I'll order a new one and hook it up,
and let everyone in the newsgroup know if it worked. Assuming I don't
electrocute myself. :)
Click to expand...
 
first things first. have you performed the test with the HOT removed
and a 60-100watt bulb across c-e? have you measured the b+? without
these simple tests you could be wasting time or money on the tripler or
whatever. post results.

..B
 
"anonymous" &lt;budmalcolm@warpmail.net&gt; wrote in
news:1167277612.187543.197660@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com:

uh, george, are you sure that is not a voltage divider?

I'm sure. The schematic says "High Voltage Tripler".
Click to expand...
 
"anonymous" &lt;budmalcolm@warpmail.net&gt; wrote in
news:1167298593.405364.316820@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com:

george I have not messed with consumer stuff very much, but I believe
the so-called triplers in TV sets disappeared quite some time ago. That
thar critter appears to me to be an integrated high voltage
transformer, (aka flyback transformer, aka FBT) The part/sub-part
(whatever) you are calling a tripler is, I believe, actually a divider
network. Note the 2 variable resistors, screen and focus. I doubt it is
bad.

The flyback transformer is soldered to the circuit board. There's another
Click to expand...
part screwed to a plastic bracket connected to the flyback by a thick
cable. According to the schematic it's a tripler.
 
George Jetson wrote:
"anonymous" &lt;budmalcolm@warpmail.net&gt; wrote in
news:1167298593.405364.316820@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com:

george I have not messed with consumer stuff very much, but I believe
the so-called triplers in TV sets disappeared quite some time ago. That
thar critter appears to me to be an integrated high voltage
transformer, (aka flyback transformer, aka FBT) The part/sub-part
(whatever) you are calling a tripler is, I believe, actually a divider
network. Note the 2 variable resistors, screen and focus. I doubt it is
bad.

The flyback transformer is soldered to the circuit board. There's another
part screwed to a plastic bracket connected to the flyback by a thick
cable. According to the schematic it's a tripler.
Click to expand...
sounds like you got it all under control there sparky.
good luck.
 
"anonymous" &lt;budmalcolm@warpmail.net&gt; wrote in
news:1167322918.638817.131420@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com:

sounds like you got it all under control there sparky.
good luck.
Click to expand...
I hope so. Thanks for the help.
 
b w wrote:
Is there any remedy for fixing scratches on big screen tvs? it is a
rear projection tv, the replacement screen is 460 bucks from JVC, i can
just replace that if i need to but i would rather try to make the
scratch less noticeable...

it feels pretty deep but i cant really tell, it mainly took the anti
glare off i think, please help i just want to minimize it if at all
possible
Thanks
Brandon
Click to expand...
throw it in the dumpster and buy a Protron, nerd.
 
Sorry for the delayed response. Been on vacation. I removed PCC board
connectors and resoldered wires. 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 on both ends.
Same results. Also swapped out HOT, still a dead CRT. I looked for a
small coil near the HOT output but there is only a medium sized one.
resoldered it also. Same results.

Art wrote:
BTW: If there is a small PCC board on the right side of the chassis (Viewed
from back) check if there is a three pin connector going from the Main pcb
to the PCC board. Cut the ends off, I.E. the plugs, and hard wire the PCC
board to the Main board. Remove the black plastic plugs and pins at each
location, solder the wires directly to the solder pads. Pay attentionto the
colour rotation of the wires, it is easy to get them mixed up. ITC008 common
problem.
My Sister gave me the following unit. It's a 2003 model that was
working great. She turned it on a couple of weeks ago and now there is
no video. Still get power LED and sound. No static on CRT at startup.
She bought a new one and gave this one to me. Any suggestions
appreciated.

If the CRT is dark, the failure is most often in the high-voltage,
horizontal scan section. Check the horizontal output transistor.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry for the delayed response. Been on vacation. I removed PCC board
connectors and resoldered wires. 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 on both ends.
Same results. Also swapped out HOT, still a dead CRT. I looked for a
small coil near the HOT output but there is only a medium sized one.
resoldered it also. Same results.

Charles Schuler wrote:
"Gary" &lt;gwilliamson@baileyspaging.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1166819455.491447.107980@79g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
My Sister gave me the following unit. It's a 2003 model that was
working great. She turned it on a couple of weeks ago and now there is
no video. Still get power LED and sound. No static on CRT at startup.
She bought a new one and gave this one to me. Any suggestions
appreciated.

If the CRT is dark, the failure is most often in the high-voltage,
horizontal scan section. Check the horizontal output transistor.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry for the delayed response. Been on vacation. I removed PCC board
connectors and resoldered wires. 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 on both ends.
Same results. Also swapped out HOT, still a dead CRT. I looked for a
small coil near the HOT output but there is only a medium sized one.
resoldered it also. Same results.

Art wrote:
Check for a small coil in the base of the H Output, bet there are lousy
solder connections on each end, seems the glue used to secure the coil to to
pcb makes it very difficult to produce a good solder connection in
production. Common Problem.
Click to expand...
 
On Mon, 01 Jan 2007 11:44:43 -0600, Peter Has Frothed:

My friend has a Dell PC with a DVD RW, the unit is about a year old.

We recently went to burn an audio CD and the computer doesn't reconize
there is a blank in the drive. I tried playing a music CD and it also
didn't reconize it.

The CD is spinning because when ejected, it's not positioned the same when
I place it on the tray. The only idea I came up with was the computer is
downstairs and it's a bit cold, could the cold be causing this problem?

I researched DVD specs and it gave an operationg spec of 41 degrees F and I
don't think the computer is being stored in a place that cold.


Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Go to the device manager and unistall the drivers. Reboot and let XP
reinstall. If that doesn't help the drive may have malfunctioned.

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line &amp; Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794
 
w9gb wrote:

"Peter" &lt;private@private.com&gt; wrote in message
news:WZidnQNG5v4W1QTYnZ2dnUVZ_vCknZ2d@comcast.com...
My friend has a Dell PC with a DVD RW, the unit is about a year old.

We recently went to burn an audio CD and the computer doesn't
reconize there is a blank in the drive. I tried playing a music CD
and it also didn't reconize it.

The CD is spinning because when ejected, it's not positioned the
same when I place it on the tray. The only idea I came up with was
the computer is downstairs and it's a bit cold, could the cold be
causing this problem?

I researched DVD specs and it gave an operationg spec of 41 degrees
F and I don't think the computer is being stored in a place that
cold.


Any ideas?

Go to the Dell web site and find out IF you have the latest drivers
AND firmware for the DVD RW.

This was a known problem with some DVD and mfg (Dell, HP,
Gateway/eMachines, etc.) were a bit slow in providing the driver
updates or the firmware upgrade for the Drive (Sony, Memorex,
Toshiba, NEC, etc.)

gb
Click to expand...
if you use a NERO driver you must select DVD or DV first
rw

--
 
w9gb wrote:

"Peter" &lt;private@private.com&gt; wrote in message
news:WZidnQNG5v4W1QTYnZ2dnUVZ_vCknZ2d@comcast.com...
My friend has a Dell PC with a DVD RW, the unit is about a year old.

We recently went to burn an audio CD and the computer doesn't reconize
there is a blank in the drive. I tried playing a music CD and it also
didn't reconize it.

The CD is spinning because when ejected, it's not positioned the same when
I place it on the tray. The only idea I came up with was the computer is
downstairs and it's a bit cold, could the cold be causing this problem?

I researched DVD specs and it gave an operationg spec of 41 degrees F and
I
don't think the computer is being stored in a place that cold.


Any ideas?

Go to the Dell web site and find out IF you have the latest drivers AND
firmware for the DVD RW.

This was a known problem with some DVD and mfg (Dell, HP, Gateway/eMachines,
etc.) were a bit slow in providing the driver updates or the firmware
upgrade for the Drive (Sony, Memorex, Toshiba, NEC, etc.)
Click to expand...
Eh ?

This is a drive that was previously working.

Nor does it need a driver to play CDs.

Graham
 
Peter wrote:
My friend has a Dell PC with a DVD RW, the unit is about a year old.

We recently went to burn an audio CD and the computer doesn't reconize
there is a blank in the drive. I tried playing a music CD and it also
didn't reconize it.



Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Isn't this the DRM Worm that SONY got SUED Millions for !!!

Where if you try to Copy a DRM protected CD, it uploads a trojan horse
Virus ??? that screws up your CD Burner !

Yukio YANO
 
Peter wrote:
My friend has a Dell PC with a DVD RW, the unit is about a year old.

We recently went to burn an audio CD and the computer doesn't reconize
there is a blank in the drive. I tried playing a music CD and it also
didn't reconize it.

The CD is spinning because when ejected, it's not positioned the same when
I place it on the tray. The only idea I came up with was the computer is
downstairs and it's a bit cold, could the cold be causing this problem?

I researched DVD specs and it gave an operationg spec of 41 degrees F and I
don't think the computer is being stored in a place that cold.


Any ideas?
many times the little rubber belt that drives the tray and lifts the cd
Click to expand...
into position slips and doesnt lock into place.Here is my test for a
slipping drive belt .... open the tray , shut computer off (hold onto
the tray untill it powers down) now look just under the tray see the
belt? wile holding the small pully with a small screwdriver , try to
turn the bigger pully if it spins easy , the belt is streached ... replace.
Jim
 
&lt;mc.preist@gmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1167767104.452436.120810@i12g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Does anyone know?!
I have an Inspiron with a 90W adapter. Do you know how to open this
adapter, I have to repair the cord.
Click to expand...
If you have a vise, you can try squeezing half of the case and see if it
releases. Go slowly!
 
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