Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 04 Jan 2007 03:24:36 +0000, Homer J Simpson Has Frothed:

"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
newsan.2007.01.03.15.50.38.466000@nntp.sun-meatplow.local...

Well the OP said the LED was not lit and the supply was hissing. I
wouldn't expect that from a supply where just the cord was broken.

The hissing is arcing and burning of the insulation which is probably
carbonized.

The hiss would indicate to me that the dc component has a high frequency
pulse. Plus the OP didn't mention any burning smell did he?


--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

jakdedert wrote:

Kris Shaw wrote:
Hello,

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 14:03:51 -0600, jakdedert
jakdedert@bellsouth.net> said to us:

I got this one at a thrift store for a few bucks, minus the adapter. If
anybody has this model, or a similar one, can you look at it for the
volts/amps/polarity...ac/dc?

Amazon has some technical specs:

http://www.amazon.com/AT-962-2-Line-Duplex-Speakerphone/dp/tech-data/B00000JB80/ref=de_a_smtd/103-6755983-1174214

I'm sorry. I looked at several 'shopping' sites and didn't find
anything...not like me. Google is my friend.

OTOH, I might have guessed, given the above. I just didn't want to
chance it....

Thanks

<http://telephones.att.com/telephones_ui/support/dsp_manuals_list.cfm>
lists about 100 AT&T manuals, but no 962. I have a pile of AT&T AC
adapters from scrapped cordless phones so I mave have one, if you don't.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Joerg wrote:

It also has a really sluggish frame rate. Can drive you nuts when
chasing noise. Bottomline I suggested to buy a "real" scope, maybe a
nicely refurbed Tektronix 2465. Something that works.

My favorite scope.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Dr. Anton T. Squeegee]

In article <1167857335.203501.208000@n51g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
hondgm@yahoo.com (known to some as hondgm@yahoo.com) scribed...

How are the Instek DSOs, in particular the "portables" like GDS-2064,
in comparison to comparable Tek 'scopes like the TDS2004B? Tek has
always had a good reputation, but the Instek is considerably cheaper.
Is it the name you're paying for, or are the Tektronix models really
that much better (reliability, performance, etc)?

The current run of Tektronix products feel to me like kids' toys
(and badly made ones at that) compared to their older stuff.

If I were shopping for a new 'scope, and had the bucks to burn, I'd
check in with LeCroy (the WaveRunner series) before I'd even glance at
current Tek stuff.

Keep the peace(es).

--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, KC7GR)
http://www.bluefeathertech.com -- kyrrin a/t bluefeathertech d-o=t calm
"Salvadore Dali's computer has surreal ports..."

 

Have you tried Excel ?

JURB

 

[Bob Urz]

ZZactly@aol.com wrote:

Also, cats are not as expensive as they used to be for regular cars.
The one we put on was $36 brand new in the box.

A place like Midas probably buys by the truckload, so they might pay
say $25. If they charge you say $80 installed, they made $55 in about
20 minutes. As long as there were no other complications, you would've
been charged for them as well. The mechanic probably makes between $15
and $25 an hour. This should be billing at 3X that. It might be more in
this type of business because it can be high maintainence. Three X is
just a rule of thumb though, high cielings cost energy in the winter at
least, and mess with the bottom line.

Last cat I had put in a car was $100 at the local muffler shop, but
this was a couple of years ago. It seems there is a new manufacturer or
something out there.

JURB

You would be hard pressed to get a muffler for that much money ($25).

And a cat is full of rare metals (at least a real cat does)

You might find some generic cats (usually Pre OBD2) after market for
a more reasonable price. But they are generic with no ends (flanges)
welded on and no ports for O2 sensors.

Factory fit out of the box cats are usually in the hundreds of dollars

Bob

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

[David L. Jones]

hondgm@yahoo.com wrote:

How are the Instek DSOs, in particular the "portables" like GDS-2064,
in comparison to comparable Tek 'scopes like the TDS2004B? Tek has
always had a good reputation, but the Instek is considerably cheaper.
Is it the name you're paying for, or are the Tektronix models really
that much better (reliability, performance, etc)?

At this end of the market they are all pretty much the same in terms of
performance and build quality, be it Tek, Agilent (actually a rebadged
Rigol), Instek et.al
Buy based on a) price, and b) what spec/feature is most important to
you.

The Instek/Goodwill GDS-2064 has 25K sample memory, that's pretty good,
the Tek only has a pathetic 2.5KB.

Dave

 

[Ron(UK)]

N Cook wrote:

I don't know about overdriving as I'm not a muso but I assumed it was what
many liked doing, taking it to 11 and all that.

Something you should know about sound reinforcement speakers is that
generally speaking it`s prudent, for instrument use, (guitar amps) to
use speakers which can handle twice the amplifier power. For example, a
100 watt guitar amp should see 200 watts worth of speakers. This is
because instrument amplifiers, guitar amps in particular are often
driven way into distortion where the wave form becomes somewhat squared
off thus delivering almost twice the RMS power.

On the other hand, PA speakers should be provided with around twice
their power handling, ie, a 400 rms watt speaker cab should be driven by
an 800 rms watt amplifier. The amplifiers used for PA should never be
driven into clipping, but when they are, that`s when things break!

In most cases when a speaker burns out, it`s because the amplifier
driving it wasn't powerful enough to provide adequate volume without
clipping.


Ron(UK)

Not responsible for any ensuing flame wars, as the above is often
difficult to comprehend, and contentious

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Ron(UK)" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:n4qdnYGhCoDSVAHYRVnyigA@bt.com...

N Cook wrote:


I don't know about overdriving as I'm not a muso but I assumed it was
what
many liked doing, taking it to 11 and all that.

Something you should know about sound reinforcement speakers is that
generally speaking it`s prudent, for instrument use, (guitar amps) to use
speakers which can handle twice the amplifier power. For example, a 100
watt guitar amp should see 200 watts worth of speakers. This is because
instrument amplifiers, guitar amps in particular are often driven way into
distortion where the wave form becomes somewhat squared off thus
delivering almost twice the RMS power.

On the other hand, PA speakers should be provided with around twice their
power handling, ie, a 400 rms watt speaker cab should be driven by an 800
rms watt amplifier. The amplifiers used for PA should never be driven into
clipping, but when they are, that`s when things break!

In most cases when a speaker burns out, it`s because the amplifier driving
it wasn't powerful enough to provide adequate volume without clipping.


Ron(UK)

Not responsible for any ensuing flame wars, as the above is often
difficult to comprehend, and contentious

As someone who is also involved in repairs of this equipment, I would have
this down as good *practical* advice rather than anything particularly
contentious - although I can see where you're coming from on that point.
Basically, it reinforces all that I've said about driving amps to output
stage clipping, and above all, the need to talk to the owner, to find out
just what he needs the rig to do.

Arfa

 

[jean easter]

I like this quote:

"These supplies contain internal voltages that can quite easily kill
(several thousands). "

Several thousands; Yeah, Riiight!

A few hundred here, a few hundred there: it all adds up!

(This idea is borrowed from the tale of some report that totalled the
dB heard by someone at one moment: Normal Conversation 60 dB + Vacuum
Cleaner 80 dB = 140 dB !!! Or was it totalled over the day...)

 

[N Cook]

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:n4qdnYGhCoDSVAHYRVnyigA@bt.com...

N Cook wrote:


I don't know about overdriving as I'm not a muso but I assumed it was
what
many liked doing, taking it to 11 and all that.

Something you should know about sound reinforcement speakers is that
generally speaking it`s prudent, for instrument use, (guitar amps) to
use speakers which can handle twice the amplifier power. For example, a
100 watt guitar amp should see 200 watts worth of speakers. This is
because instrument amplifiers, guitar amps in particular are often
driven way into distortion where the wave form becomes somewhat squared
off thus delivering almost twice the RMS power.

On the other hand, PA speakers should be provided with around twice
their power handling, ie, a 400 rms watt speaker cab should be driven by
an 800 rms watt amplifier. The amplifiers used for PA should never be
driven into clipping, but when they are, that`s when things break!

In most cases when a speaker burns out, it`s because the amplifier
driving it wasn't powerful enough to provide adequate volume without
clipping.


Ron(UK)

Not responsible for any ensuing flame wars, as the above is often
difficult to comprehend, and contentious

Is it not simply that if you drive an output to clipping then you are
dumping full rail 60V or whatever DC on the speaker.
If it stays for more than a few milliseconds driven to full high or low then
that is enough to burn out the voice coil after its already hot from
sustained high, but not clipping, normal AC.

 

[Ron(UK)]

N Cook wrote:

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:n4qdnYGhCoDSVAHYRVnyigA@bt.com...
N Cook wrote:

I don't know about overdriving as I'm not a muso but I assumed it was
what
many liked doing, taking it to 11 and all that.
Something you should know about sound reinforcement speakers is that
generally speaking it`s prudent, for instrument use, (guitar amps) to
use speakers which can handle twice the amplifier power. For example, a
100 watt guitar amp should see 200 watts worth of speakers. This is
because instrument amplifiers, guitar amps in particular are often
driven way into distortion where the wave form becomes somewhat squared
off thus delivering almost twice the RMS power.

On the other hand, PA speakers should be provided with around twice
their power handling, ie, a 400 rms watt speaker cab should be driven by
an 800 rms watt amplifier. The amplifiers used for PA should never be
driven into clipping, but when they are, that`s when things break!

In most cases when a speaker burns out, it`s because the amplifier
driving it wasn't powerful enough to provide adequate volume without
clipping.


Ron(UK)

Not responsible for any ensuing flame wars, as the above is often
difficult to comprehend, and contentious

Is it not simply that if you drive an output to clipping then you are
dumping full rail 60V or whatever DC on the speaker.
If it stays for more than a few milliseconds driven to full high or low then
that is enough to burn out the voice coil after its already hot from
sustained high, but not clipping, normal AC.

Well it`s not technically DC, more of a square wave than a sine wave, so
the peak lasts longer and the waveform contains up to twice the energy,
but you are correct that it`s voice coil heating that`s the killer.

There are some handy papers on the Rane site covering what happens when
amplifiers are driven into distortion btw.

http://www.rane.com/library.html


Ron(UK)

 

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 04 Jan 2007 00:07:26 -0600, Bob Urz Has Frothed:

ZZactly@aol.com wrote:

Also, cats are not as expensive as they used to be for regular cars.
The one we put on was $36 brand new in the box.

A place like Midas probably buys by the truckload, so they might pay
say $25. If they charge you say $80 installed, they made $55 in about
20 minutes. As long as there were no other complications, you would've
been charged for them as well. The mechanic probably makes between $15
and $25 an hour. This should be billing at 3X that. It might be more in
this type of business because it can be high maintainence. Three X is
just a rule of thumb though, high cielings cost energy in the winter at
least, and mess with the bottom line.

Last cat I had put in a car was $100 at the local muffler shop, but
this was a couple of years ago. It seems there is a new manufacturer or
something out there.

JURB

You would be hard pressed to get a muffler for that much money ($25).
And a cat is full of rare metals (at least a real cat does)

You might find some generic cats (usually Pre OBD2) after market for
a more reasonable price. But they are generic with no ends (flanges)
welded on and no ports for O2 sensors.

Factory fit out of the box cats are usually in the hundreds of dollars

Bob

A direct fit Catco for an 87 Grand Prix is $109.00.
--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

 

[jakdedert]

jakdedert wrote:

Arfa Daily wrote:
Not really a repair thing - just a comment on product uselessness
really. My next door neighbour treated himself to a bunch of home
cinema gear this Christmas, including a Panasonic DVD player, a
Panasonic DVD / HDD recorder, a Yamaha digital sound projector, (
whose performance is unbelievably good ) and the crowning glory,
Panasonic's latest all singing and dancing front projector with enough
output to work in virtual daylight. All OK so far. He came round to
see me the day after Christmas, bearing bottles of beer - so that was
OK - and wanted me to go round so that he could show me his home
cinema that he had built. As we were walking back round, he told me
that the only problem that he had, was a keystone-distorted picture in
the horizontal. No problem, I told him. There will be menu settings
for N-S and E-W keystone correction. No, he said, there's only one. I
told him that he must be mistaken, as they would not just put one
correction in, as it's so easy for them to distort the image within
the projector, to compensate for optical misalignment.

However, he was right. There is electronic compensation for up-down
tilt of the projector - and the range is huge. You could literally
stand the projector on the floor pointing up at the wall by 30
degrees, or likewise, down by the same amount from the ceiling, but
there is no way to correct for the one foot !! horizontal misalignment
that he was forced to have because of the only places that the screen
and projector shelf could go. Suspension from the ceiling to place the
projector exactly in front of the screen was not an option. There is a
mechanical lever on the front, which shuffles the lens about, and
moves the image around, but this in no way allows you to compensate
for the trapezium shaped picture that is a result of this
comparitively small misalignment. Just how crap is that ?? Considering
that this unit is designed for use in the home, where alignment
conditions are very likely to be less than optimum, just what were the
designers thinking of, when they left this important geometry
adjustment out ? Perhaps I'm missing something, but I don't think so.
Both myself and my neighbour spent a long time reading the book of
words, and could find no references to any correction that could be
made in respect of this type of image distortion. If anybody can
enlighten me as to anything different, I'd be really glad to hear what
you have to say ...

Arfa


(In an LCD projector, there is no magnetic N-S correction.) Granted,
trapezoidal distortion is annoying, but it's ridiculously easy to
compensate for. If the projector is already fixed into position and
can't be moved, a relatively minor correction in the *angle* of the
screen will do it. Simply move the side of the screen where the image
is larger slightly closer to the projector. Usually an inch or two will
do it.

This was an error in installation, which even a novice installer should
have corrected for. The keystone correction is only for convenience.
It's rare for there to be an instance where it's acceptable to place the
projector vertically level with the center of the screen, without
affecting sight lines. That's why there's some method of keystone
correction in nearly every projector. Getting it in the middle
*horizontally* should be a given...and trivial to achieve.

Electronic geometry corrections affect the resolution available anyway,
as pixels are sacrificed for geometry. Optical or mechanical (moving
the screen or optics) solutions offer the highest degree of accuracy,
resolution and viewability.

Given that he's spent so much on gear, it would make sense to install it
all correctly. If he had it done, he needs to get the installers out to
correct it. If he did it himself....

jak

Okay...rereading the OP, I see where he was forced to put the projector

off-center. In that case, changing the angle of the screen is required.
Some forethought in the installation might have produced a projector
which would have filled the screen from a closer distance--possibly
allowing center placement--but he's locked in now. Angle one side of
the screen (the one with the large side of the trapezoid) toward the
projector. Depending on the degree of distortion, the distance from
screen to projector, the size of the image desired and the screen
mounting method, it might yet be a trivial fix...but it must be done to
obtain a 'square' image.

This is an instance in which professional consultation might have saved
money. I've seen few projectors with trapezoid correction.

jak

 

[Arfa Daily]

"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:%6bnh.18659$AY1.7768@bignews5.bellsouth.net...

jakdedert wrote:
Arfa Daily wrote:
Not really a repair thing - just a comment on product uselessness
really. My next door neighbour treated himself to a bunch of home cinema
gear this Christmas, including a Panasonic DVD player, a Panasonic DVD /
HDD recorder, a Yamaha digital sound projector, ( whose performance is
unbelievably good ) and the crowning glory, Panasonic's latest all
singing and dancing front projector with enough output to work in
virtual daylight. All OK so far. He came round to see me the day after
Christmas, bearing bottles of beer - so that was OK - and wanted me to
go round so that he could show me his home cinema that he had built. As
we were walking back round, he told me that the only problem that he
had, was a keystone-distorted picture in the horizontal. No problem, I
told him. There will be menu settings for N-S and E-W keystone
correction. No, he said, there's only one. I told him that he must be
mistaken, as they would not just put one correction in, as it's so easy
for them to distort the image within the projector, to compensate for
optical misalignment.

However, he was right. There is electronic compensation for up-down tilt
of the projector - and the range is huge. You could literally stand the
projector on the floor pointing up at the wall by 30 degrees, or
likewise, down by the same amount from the ceiling, but there is no way
to correct for the one foot !! horizontal misalignment that he was
forced to have because of the only places that the screen and projector
shelf could go. Suspension from the ceiling to place the projector
exactly in front of the screen was not an option. There is a mechanical
lever on the front, which shuffles the lens about, and moves the image
around, but this in no way allows you to compensate for the trapezium
shaped picture that is a result of this comparitively small
misalignment. Just how crap is that ?? Considering that this unit is
designed for use in the home, where alignment conditions are very likely
to be less than optimum, just what were the designers thinking of, when
they left this important geometry adjustment out ? Perhaps I'm missing
something, but I don't think so. Both myself and my neighbour spent a
long time reading the book of words, and could find no references to any
correction that could be made in respect of this type of image
distortion. If anybody can enlighten me as to anything different, I'd be
really glad to hear what you have to say ...

Arfa


(In an LCD projector, there is no magnetic N-S correction.) Granted,
trapezoidal distortion is annoying, but it's ridiculously easy to
compensate for. If the projector is already fixed into position and
can't be moved, a relatively minor correction in the *angle* of the
screen will do it. Simply move the side of the screen where the image is
larger slightly closer to the projector. Usually an inch or two will do
it.

This was an error in installation, which even a novice installer should
have corrected for. The keystone correction is only for convenience.
It's rare for there to be an instance where it's acceptable to place the
projector vertically level with the center of the screen, without
affecting sight lines. That's why there's some method of keystone
correction in nearly every projector. Getting it in the middle
*horizontally* should be a given...and trivial to achieve.

Electronic geometry corrections affect the resolution available anyway,
as pixels are sacrificed for geometry. Optical or mechanical (moving the
screen or optics) solutions offer the highest degree of accuracy,
resolution and viewability.

Given that he's spent so much on gear, it would make sense to install it
all correctly. If he had it done, he needs to get the installers out to
correct it. If he did it himself....

jak

Okay...rereading the OP, I see where he was forced to put the projector
off-center. In that case, changing the angle of the screen is required.
Some forethought in the installation might have produced a projector which
would have filled the screen from a closer distance--possibly allowing
center placement--but he's locked in now. Angle one side of the screen
(the one with the large side of the trapezoid) toward the projector.
Depending on the degree of distortion, the distance from screen to
projector, the size of the image desired and the screen mounting method,
it might yet be a trivial fix...but it must be done to obtain a 'square'
image.

This is an instance in which professional consultation might have saved
money. I've seen few projectors with trapezoid correction.

jak


Hi Jak

I hear what you are saying, and of course in an ideal world, the projector
would be directly in front of the screen, but in the real world, this may
not be possible - hence the point that I was making that as this is intended
as a domestic projector, where compromises are highly likely to have to be
made to accommodate it in an existing house room layout, rather than a
professional unit that is likely to be installed in a custom built lecture
theatre or whatever, it would have been prudent to have built in the
necessary correction. Considering that such a huge range of correction on
this unit is readily available for vertical keystoning correction, it would
not have been that difficult to have incorporated similar, if limited,
compensation for any horizontal positioning error, given of course that this
will affect resolution to a degree, as you point out.

My neighbour did install it all himself, but he is far from a dumb person.
Apart from this minor problem, it all works exactly as he intended, which
given the range of equipment that he now has connected together, including a
VCR and Sat box, as well as his new players and recorders, is in my opinion,
no mean feat ( he is an electrician by trade, but a director of a metal
plating company these days ). As far as tilting the screen goes as a method
of correction, of course this is the obvious way of doing it, and we had
figured that. However, again in this instance, this isn't possible, as his
screen is, for the moment, a white painted wall which, before everyone
starts howling that this is not reflective enough or not a pure enough
white, or whatever, actually does work very well.

The problem is on the way to being solved now, in that he has effectively
turned the room layout through 90 degrees, which has allowed him to mount
the projector directly in front of the screen ( a different white painted
wall ... ) However, this has meant a considerably more difficult run of the
cables, and longer HDMI runs etc, which is what he was trying to avoid in
the first place.

On the subject of correction in both directions, I have been involved with a
couple of professional installations, but from the audio installation side
rather than from the visual angle. I can't remember what projector types
they were, but they were supplied by the friend who was responsible for the
job, and who hired me in for the audio work. What I do remember, however,
was that in one of the installations, the projector was actually up in a
proper booth in a hospital lecture theatre, and was offset to the side of
the screen. The projector in question had electronic adjustments for
keystone and trapezium distortion via the remote handset, so the offset did
not represent any problem at all, as I had expected it wouldn't for my
neighbour.

Arfa

 

[Dani]

RCA has a HUGE common sound problem!!! No actual fix for it. Corrupt
cable info gets
through to the T.V. Try unplugging the T.V., overnight, & the sound,
SHOULD come back. Dani.



harley wrote:

Hi was wondering i have a 35 rca tv and i have a problem with the sound.When
i turn on tv the sounds is fine for around 20 mins then i get static and i
lose sound.Something overheating?Anyone have a ideas on how to fix?Thanks

 

[Dani]

RCA has a HUGE common sound problem!!! No actual fix for it. Corrupt
cable info gets
through to the T.V. Try unplugging the T.V., overnight, & the sound,
SHOULD come back. Dani.



harley wrote:

Hi was wondering i have a 35 rca tv and i have a problem with the sound.When
i turn on tv the sounds is fine for around 20 mins then i get static and i
lose sound.Something overheating?Anyone have a ideas on how to fix?Thanks

 

[radiotech@corrwireless.co]

Dani wrote:

I'm looking for a no longer available part for an RCA 52" rear
projection TV, Model # D52W19BYX1 Chassis # ITC 222. Location # CL031
on part # 264102 P/S Deflection PWB, .0087 uf @ 2000 vdc.
Globalsemi, Tritronicsinc, & Vancebaldwin show NLA. Where can I get
one? It had a bad connection, & burnt a hole in the board. I repaired
the board, but need a good capacitor. I can't locate a substitute.
Thanks, Dani.

..I come up with Part# 259321 It is still on RCA price list at $2.00
Try Union Electronic Dist. beecher Ill
If you need email address please let me know Charles
radiotech@corrwireless.net

 

[harley]

i tried that and it does come back then it goes out again and it does it
everytime i run tv thats why i think something is overheating but i could be
wrong
"Dani" <greeben@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167937459.460446.10650@v33g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...

RCA has a HUGE common sound problem!!! No actual fix for it. Corrupt
cable info gets
through to the T.V. Try unplugging the T.V., overnight, & the sound,
SHOULD come back. Dani.



harley wrote:
Hi was wondering i have a 35 rca tv and i have a problem with the
sound.When
i turn on tv the sounds is fine for around 20 mins then i get static and
i
lose sound.Something overheating?Anyone have a ideas on how to fix?Thanks

 

[Däve]

That's normal for those sets.

"Dani" <greeben@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167932588.443250.234300@6g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...

Sanyo 32" T.V., Model # DS32224 works fine but SMPS transformer ticks
when T.V. is off, checked
all capacitors, & standby voltages are all ok. Anyone come accross
this? Thanks, Dani.