Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

mm wrote:

AIUI, when soldering to an enameled wire, there is no need to remove
the enamel first. It just burns up and disappears when one is
applying the solder. Is that true?

Otherwise, are there any tricks to repairing a small transformer**
such as used to power an audio device such as a clock radio from
110VAC: I take the cover off and the first layer of "tape" and if
there is only a half inch of wire going to the priamary winding, and
if when I try to solder to it, it breaks off just as it goes into the
winding, under other stuff, I haven't been able to fix them in the
past. But maybe there is a trick I don't know.

**The one in question today has 3 secondary windings,
green-yellow-green, red-red, and blue-blue. Does that indicate what
the output voltages should be?

It's 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch and it runs a high-quality Panasonic,
clock-radio, sterero cassette player/recorder. Model 680-3870


If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM :)
overheating enamel insulated magnet wire never makes it
solderable. Just destroys it's insulating qualities. On
fine wire, use a thumbs worth of fine steel wool. Poke the
enameled wire into it, squeeze lightly and pull the wire
out. Repeat (rotate wire a little) until the end is shinny
copper. Practice with different sizes until you get the
squeeze pressure down, before taking on the real repair.

There is magnet wire manufactured with synthetic insulation,
that can be heated and soldered in one step. Some trade
names were Nyleze, Soldereze etc. These are almost always
bright color insulations, red, green, blue, and yellow are
common. If you touch a hot soldering iron to it, the
insulation will form small beads that will move along the
wire, away from the iron tip.

One caution, a lot of shop appliance motors (drills, hedge
trimmers, weed eaters) use insulated ALUMINUM magnet wire!
No matter how well you remove the enamel, the wire looks
"tinned" and just won't solder. You will also see only
small brass crimps used to connect to this stuff.

Many manufacturers offer reasonably priced replacement
transformers. I also wonder why you have so many failures?
I have on occasion "unwound" a bad (internal short)
transformer, removing the "lams", counted the turns. Then
gauged the wire sizes and rewound the coil and relaminated
the stack. It's getting difficult to find small quantities
of numbered magnet wire, the papers, and electrical varnish
these days. The only high tech tools? Micrometer, wire
standards, and an oven. Kitchen type works fine if the
"boss" isn't home ;-)

-larry / dallas
 
On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 12:10:33 -0800, cartoper Has Frothed:

"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message

No offense but you're not goingto fix it on your own.

kip wrote:
I agree !!

No offense taken. To tell you the truth, I don't think I can do it
either, but the one thing I know, if I don't try I most definitly
cannot do it;)
Cool, I discourage everyone who has no formal training from sticking their
hands in something that can generate up to 32 thousand volts. Granted the
high voltage is low amperage and that I have survived many "bites"
however, there are other more hefty supplys well above 110 volt house
current (US) that could cause you serious injury or detah. I sure wouldn't
ever offer advice to someone like you other than leave it alone.

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794
 
tnom@mucks.net wrote in news:k0cuo259uparuc14pobhp3hl63rl9uoele@4ax.com:

It means the crowbar circuit is working as it is suppose to. Most
likely the horizontal output transistor or output is shorted.
Could you explain this? Thanks.
 
On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 02:31:40 GMT, larry <noone@home.com> wrote:

mm wrote:

AIUI, when soldering to an enameled wire, there is no need to remove
the enamel first. It just burns up and disappears when one is
applying the solder. Is that true?

Otherwise, are there any tricks to repairing a small transformer**
such as used to power an audio device such as a clock radio from
110VAC: I take the cover off and the first layer of "tape" and if
there is only a half inch of wire going to the priamary winding, and
if when I try to solder to it, it breaks off just as it goes into the
winding, under other stuff, I haven't been able to fix them in the
past. But maybe there is a trick I don't know.

**The one in question today has 3 secondary windings,
green-yellow-green, red-red, and blue-blue. Does that indicate what
the output voltages should be?

It's 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch and it runs a high-quality Panasonic,
clock-radio, sterero cassette player/recorder. Model 680-3870


overheating enamel insulated magnet wire never makes it
solderable. Just destroys it's insulating qualities. On
fine wire, use a thumbs worth of fine steel wool. Poke the
enameled wire into it, squeeze lightly and pull the wire
out. Repeat (rotate wire a little) until the end is shinny
copper. Practice with different sizes until you get the
squeeze pressure down, before taking on the real repair.

There is magnet wire manufactured with synthetic insulation,
that can be heated and soldered in one step. Some trade
names were Nyleze, Soldereze etc. These are almost always
bright color insulations, red, green, blue, and yellow are
common. If you touch a hot soldering iron to it, the
insulation will form small beads that will move along the
wire, away from the iron tip.

One caution, a lot of shop appliance motors (drills, hedge
trimmers, weed eaters) use insulated ALUMINUM magnet wire!
No matter how well you remove the enamel, the wire looks
"tinned" and just won't solder. You will also see only
small brass crimps used to connect to this stuff.
Thanks for all the valuable, interesting information. I'll remember
it.

Many manufacturers offer reasonably priced replacement
transformers. I also wonder why you have so many failures?
Me? In the last 10 years or more, I have only had this one failure of
a transformer. I have failures in general because I look for them. I
pick up broken things to fix them. They are usually broken before I
get them. Often my friends save them for me, or I get them out of the
trash or at yard sales. It's a hobby. Often I give them away after
they are fixed, or give them to Goodwill.

One time in NY, on my to the car on a Sunday I found a tv in the
trash. I had a date -- we went to the zoo and to dinner -- but I
looked forward to working on the tv when I got home. Sadly, it worked
fine.

I have on occasion "unwound" a bad (internal short)
transformer, removing the "lams", counted the turns. Then
gauged the wire sizes and rewound the coil and relaminated
the stack. It's getting difficult to find small quantities
of numbered magnet wire, the papers, and electrical varnish
these days. The only high tech tools? Micrometer, wire
standards, and an oven. Kitchen type works fine if the
"boss" isn't home ;-)
Interesting.

When I was about 12 to 14 I unwound a broken motor from an erector
set. We couldn't afford an erector set with an electric motor, only
the one with the spring motor, but a friend gave me his broken
electric one. I unwound the enameled wire and found that it was
broken at every 2nd corner or maybe every turn. I scratched the
enamel off of both ends of every piece, hooked them together, and
wrapped it up again. Then I made the mistake of wrapping it in
electric tape instead of plain cloth. It worked but as it got hot, it
started to melt the adhesive and started to smell or smoke. Maybe it
was getting too hot too fast, because the wire was shorter than it had
been and partially shorted, but anyhow, I figured if I tried to take
off the tape, too much adhesive would stick anyhow.

And I don't think we could afford to buy me a roll of enameled wire.
Nor did I know any place that sold such stuff.

Anyhow, getting there is more fun than having a motor. I did my best,
even if I failed. I wasnt' upset.

-larry / dallas

If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM :)
 
On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com>
wrote:

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.
Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.

Do you know that the TV can kill you after it is off, after it is
unplugged, for days afterwards or maybe even weeks if the discharge
device is bad?

Do you know how to discharge the picture tube after the set is off,
without touching it electrically?

Even I don't know if the part that precedes the flyback is dangerous.
I just never touch it.
 
On Mon, 25 Dec 2006 01:23:11 -0500, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com
wrote:


No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.

Do you know that the TV can kill you after it is off, after it is
unplugged, for days afterwards or maybe even weeks if the discharge
device is bad?

Do you know how to discharge the picture tube after the set is off,
without touching it electrically?

Even I don't know if the part that precedes the flyback is dangerous.
I just never touch it.

If he had any high voltage we wouldn't be having this conversation.
 
Abbysmak@gmail.com wrote:
I have a 36" Panasonic CT-36G23W TV which keeps on shutting off
intermittently. There is no picture or sound once it shuts off. I
have no LED lights in the front of the TV to give any type of diagnose
codes. It has been happening for months now and sometimes it will come
back on by itself within 5- 25 minutes. Other times, I knock the front
right end of it and it will turn back on. This is not always an
instant fix, it works 50% of the time. It may turn back on and then
immediately off or it may not turn on at all after several hits.

Can someone provide any insight into this issue? This has been posted
in several other forums but with no resolution at all.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ab
Do you have flourescent lights? they have been known to turn tvs on and
off.
 
sosodotro@gmail.com wrote:
Everey time i go to make a photo..
I focalize..and i press the shoot button..Is exit from the camera(when
to save the picture...).
What is the problem?

The phone work ok untill now.

I can register video whitout any problem.


Thank you!
maybe you shouldn't hold the camera so close to your dick when you take
a picture.
 
kip wrote:
Support your Local TV Tech and call him...
Because one day YOU will need him.
Kip,

I would in a heart beat, if I had it, I don't. Why else do you think I
am trying to save a 13-year-old TV;)
 
On 23 Dec 2006 12:48:29 -0800, Abbysmak@gmail.com wrote:
I have a 36" Panasonic CT-36G23W TV which keeps on shutting off
intermittently. There is no picture or sound once it shuts off. I
have no LED lights in the front of the TV to give any type of diagnose
codes. It has been happening for months now and sometimes it will come
back on by itself within 5- 25 minutes. Other times, I knock the front
right end of it and it will turn back on. This is not always an
instant fix, it works 50% of the time. It may turn back on and then
immediately off or it may not turn on at all after several hits.

Can someone provide any insight into this issue? This has been posted
in several other forums but with no resolution at all.
For Christmas I gave all my friends one of those high power, dual-led,
universal remote TV killers. (Can make dining out a MUCH MORE PLEASANT
experience.) Maybe one of them lives with eye-shot of the window of the
room your TV is in....
 
mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in
news:fdruo2plm7bhr1ndmjmv96rvf1tittaept@4ax.com:

Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.
Then by all means feel free to NOT offer any advice.
 
On Tue, 26 Dec 2006 04:40:22 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com>
wrote:

mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in
news:fdruo2plm7bhr1ndmjmv96rvf1tittaept@4ax.com:


Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.


Then by all means feel free to NOT offer any advice.
I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.


If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM :)
 
"umberto" <umberto.viano@gmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1167119948.952646.28610@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
http://umberto.viano.googlepages.com/
ancora?....che palle.
 
mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in
news:kef1p29kp85017df3japcq9al0sv5s81rn@4ax.com:

I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.
My point is that if you're not convinced of my knowledge of proper safety
precautions, then don't offer any troubleshooting advice.
 
On Tue, 26 Dec 2006 13:45:14 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com>
wrote:

mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in
news:kef1p29kp85017df3japcq9al0sv5s81rn@4ax.com:


I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.


My point is that if you're not convinced of my knowledge of proper safety
precautions, then don't offer any troubleshooting advice.
I don't recall you ever mentioning that you have an isolation
transformer.

CWM
 
On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 +0000, George Jetson Has Frothed:

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.
If your service manual has a troubleshooting flow chart, follow it.
However in the absence of the proper test equipment and the experience to
use it you might as well keep your hands out of it.

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794
 
I had the same model with the same symptoms repaired about 9 months back for
about $350. I know it seems like a lot for a 13 year old set, but it still
has a great picture and my family loves it so it was worth it to me. My
only advice is to find someone who has experience with the Hitachi. It is a
well made set and probably worth at least getting a quote for repair.

If you do elect to dump it and are willing to pull the CRTs and boards, let
me know since finding replacement parts is getting pretty tough on mine due
to its age!

Bob

<cartoper@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167069004.913927.286490@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com...
kip wrote:
Support your Local TV Tech and call him...
Because one day YOU will need him.

Kip,

I would in a heart beat, if I had it, I don't. Why else do you think I
am trying to save a 13-year-old TV;)
 
Charlie Morgan <*@*.com> wrote in
news:u5b2p29lh0d52jsip6atkm1khdk0crknc4@4ax.com:

I don't recall you ever mentioning that you have an isolation
transformer.

CWM
You're correct. I didn't. In fact, I don't think I mentioned ANY specific
safety precautions.
 
On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 20:37:22 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com>
wrote:

Charlie Morgan <*@*.com> wrote in
news:fag5p25bvc0v4mc4c8f8qp041ctbpf93m6@4ax.com:


If you are not "trying" to be an asshole, then I guess it comes
naturally, and without effort for you.

Really, I'm not. I just think that my safety is solely MY
responsibility, and if I'm comfortable with my level of knowledge in
this area, then anyone who wishes to help me should accept that I am.

People who have experience
working on televisions have an awareness of how how dangerous they are
for the smug amateur handyman who thinks he knows all the answers when
he doesn't even know what questions to ask. Those who want to make
sure you are not one of "those", are merely being responsible and
showing concern for your welfare. They are trying to help you without
getting you injured or killed. It's not about you or your worthiness.
It's about them being responsible and caring.

You speak as if there are numerous people who are concerned about my
level of expertise in TV repair, and I'm writing replies bashing them
all. Actually, my original response was to one particular person, mm.
Several people asked about my experience, and I politely answered.
Several people gave me safety advice, which I gladly accepted. A number
of people just accepted that I knew enough to work on TV's and offered
troubleshooting advice. As a matter of fact, YOU were the second person
to give me advice, with no thought as to my qualifications. By the way,
thanks for the advice.

On the other hand, mm flatly called me a liar, and then proceeded to
quiz me with VERY basic TV troubleshooting questions, implying that he
wouldn't answer any questions unless I passed the test. Even though I
was VERY insulted, I just told him that he didn't have to offer any
advice if he didn't think I was qualified to apply it.

That's when you stepped in. Yes, I realize everyone can read my replies,
but that doesn't mean those replies are directed to everyone. I was
specifically replying to mm, not you, or anyone else. So if I said
something to offend you specifically, I apologize. But if you're
offended by what I said to mm, please keep it to yourself. It's none of
your business.
I don't have any idea what's on TV tonight, but I am thinking you are
going to miss it. <G>

CWM
 
Charlie Morgan <*@*.com> wrote in news:ctm5p25j3ajetaf4ctpjf0p0flrnmf34sn@
4ax.com:

I don't have any idea what's on TV tonight, but I am thinking you are
going to miss it. <G

CWM
Maybe, but not for lack of a working TV. I have three.
 

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