Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Ralph Mowery]

"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:r4pqo254m84ceubdsu9mmvh92cqg5a9ui3@4ax.com...

AIUI, when soldering to an enameled wire, there is no need to remove
the enamel first. It just burns up and disappears when one is
applying the solder. Is that true?

Otherwise, are there any tricks to repairing a small transformer**
such as used to power an audio device such as a clock radio from
110VAC: I take the cover off and the first layer of "tape" and if
there is only a half inch of wire going to the priamary winding, and
if when I try to solder to it, it breaks off just as it goes into the
winding, under other stuff, I haven't been able to fix them in the
past. But maybe there is a trick I don't know.

**The one in question today has 3 secondary windings,
green-yellow-green, red-red, and blue-blue. Does that indicate what
the output voltages should be?

It's 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch and it runs a high-quality Panasonic,
clock-radio, sterero cassette player/recorder. Model 680-3870

Some enameled wire can be soldered without stripping , but I doubt it is the
case in your transformer. Most o f the time it will have to be dipped in
special stripping liquid or removed by scraping it off with a knife or
sandpaper. It can also be removed by burning it off with a match , but with
small wire , the wire will probably burn before the insulation.

The colors of the wire only mean there are 3 seperate windings and have
nothing in general to do with the voltage. You will have to find the maker
of the transformer and see what they used the colors for.
In the days of tube radios, the green was usaully 6.3 volts , the red was
for the high voltage (again voltage by the maker) , yellow was 5 volts, the
black was for the primary voltage. Again even that was not 100% all the
time.

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"NudoWhacker" <thenudofamily@epix.net> wrote in message
news:vkqqo2118jd8p3bre6iq3a1oj4h344fp92@4ax.com...

On 23 Dec 2006 07:40:54 -0800, "elkhound" <elkhound68@yahoo.com
wrote:

http://search.ebay<snip

HELP GET A SPAMMER'S EBAY ACCOUNT TERMINATED!

This spammer, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, is a well-known
scammer and fraudster, selling counterfeit dupes of 8 tracks as well
as worthless crap to unsuspecting buyers on eBay for years now. He
has consistantly violated eBay's Terms of Service
regarding Usenet spam, to wit:

But his feedback isn't that bad:

Member Profile: 66fourdoor (1306)

Feedback Score: 1306
Positive Feedback: 99.8%

Members who left a positive: 1308
Members who left a negative: 2

All positive feedback received: 1577

1591 feedback received by 66fourdoor (1 rating mutually withdrawn)

CommentFrom Date / TimeItem #
Shipped fast, packed well, was kept informed, am happy with transaction &
seller
Buyer brantkenny ( 107) Nov-22-05 16:275825148348
Follow-up by brantkenny: The feedback should of been a POSITIVE feed back,
not a neutral feedbak Nov-23-05 06:24

Would have been nice to know that the "set" was missing a tape
Buyer loribyers ( 50) Jul-29-05 16:174748608442
Reply by 66fourdoor: listing plainly stated 29 tapes-not 30-$6 set-free
shipping-what do you want ??? Jul-30-05 03:41


this guy made a fraud, I paid via paypal he sent nothing
Buyer katinka41 ( 288) Dec-21-04 03:324039436141
Reply by 66fourdoor: overseas Europe buyer-shipments delayed 12 weeks via
standard mail-will arrive ! Dec-21-04 04:02
Follow-up by katinka41: everything is alright now Jan-07-05 22:51
Rating Mutually Withdrawn: Buyer and seller mutually agreed to withdraw
feedback for this item. Learn more. Jan-08-05 22:39

cover of item listed for 56 Buick, pages show up to 55 Buick,
misrepresented.
Buyer kh208 ( 55)
no longer a registered user Dec-20-04 03:047934597115
Reply by 66fourdoor: cover states 1956 in title-refund available-Aussie
buyer too picky-whattya want? Dec-20-04 03:55

poor discription of merchandise no responce after sale.
Buyer bell4005 ( 630) Dec-04-04 11:097930763479
Reply by 66fourdoor: 1941 book $10-whattya want?-changed net server didnt
get email-refund available- Dec-05-04 06:20

shipped fast,three tapes broke when first played one tape not what was said
tobe
Buyer biranmorris ( 9 ) Oct-23-04 13:064042853011
Reply by 66fourdoor: never emailed me-free repair/refund offered-he
refused-his junk deck ate tapes ! Oct-26-04 15:19

Copy of this program was duplicated on a very worn out VHS Tape. Not Happy
....
Buyer eighttrackman(private) May-23-04 13:592599653417
Reply by 66fourdoor: grainy image he sees on DVD too-underground cult film
16 mm-OUT OF PRINT-(duh)?? May-24-04 06:44

Quick Shipper But item looks to be BootLeg Copy! Well Worn and Scratchy
Video!!
Buyer fortuitous2 ( 216) Apr-08-04 11:364002801711
Reply by 66fourdoor: movie is underground cult film 16mm, grainy image he
sees is also on the DVD,duh Apr-09-04 03:23

VERY NICE PEOPLE SKILLS!! SHIPPING ARANGEMENTS LEAVE A BIT TO BE DESIRED.
Buyer aj0218 ( 15) Mar-28-03 14:203507369672
Reply by 66fourdoor: all others this page praise shipping,this item sent
same way,so what's problem?? Mar-30-03 11:04

Obvious flaw not mentioned..no one wants junk even if cheap..be more
descriptive
Buyer manderman ( 1241) Jul-21-02 16:272037016626
Follow-up by manderman: neg-- because he said I sent "nasty" email--was
polite letter expressing concern Jul-21-02 16:33
Reply by 66fourdoor: BIDDERS EMAIL ME FOR DETAILS,$2 ITEM REFUND OFFERED,HE
REFUSED,NUT CASE WACKO!!! Jul-22-02 16:25

BUYER FEEDBACK EXTORTION: WANTED $10 FOR POSITIVE FB OR SELLER GETS NEG.
Seller pummer2 ( 648)
no longer a registered user Jun-20-02 07:561358927260
Reply by 66fourdoor: HE CHARGED $20 TO SHIP A $50 ITEM IN SNACK BOXES,AND
TAPE DECK DOESN'T WORK! Jun-20-02 14:51
Follow-up by pummer2: Please review sellers profile regarding positive
packing compliments Jun-20-02 15:38

Sometimes you get burned in these auctions. You couldn't open carb with
dynamite
Buyer skyliner-59 ( 56) Apr-30-02 13:361818966915
Reply by 66fourdoor: Desc. said carb seized,pic in listing,full refund
offered,$10 item,relax,easy!!! Apr-30-02 14:59

Item usable (barely), not as described. Disappointed.
Buyer stovebolt53 ( 111)
no longer a registered user Feb-22-02 16:07600385499
Reply by 66fourdoor: 7unused wires needing ends as described,late
payment,what's the problem,$5 item? Feb-22-02 16:37

filthy carburetor, dont have courtesy to clean. parents dont teach him
manners.
Buyer 1969cadillaccoupedeville ( 404) Feb-08-02 08:35600369422
Reply by 66fourdoor: All carbs and parts are AS REMOVED. Are you kidding ?
Parent remark att: ebay Feb-08-02 11:02

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:r4pqo254m84ceubdsu9mmvh92cqg5a9ui3@4ax.com...

**The one in question today has 3 secondary windings,
green-yellow-green, red-red, and blue-blue. Does that indicate what
the output voltages should be?

Nope. There are no standards for that, only suggestions as to possible
colors.

http://tritium.fis.unb.br/Fis3Exp/fcim.csdc.com/fcimis/compid/ind/transfor.html

and many more.

 

[hrhofmann@att.net]

If you are lucky, you might be able to burn off the insulation, try a
hot iron/soldering gun, and use plenty of flux (NOT ACID FLUX). A
delicate hand is required if you try to remove the insulation by
scraping. Sometimes you can get the solder to stick to the end of the
actual wire, that is a minimal connection, but if the wire is very
short it is better than nothing.

H. R. (Bob) Hofmann

mm wrote:

AIUI, when soldering to an enameled wire, there is no need to remove
the enamel first. It just burns up and disappears when one is
applying the solder. Is that true?

Otherwise, are there any tricks to repairing a small transformer**
such as used to power an audio device such as a clock radio from
110VAC: I take the cover off and the first layer of "tape" and if
there is only a half inch of wire going to the priamary winding, and
if when I try to solder to it, it breaks off just as it goes into the
winding, under other stuff, I haven't been able to fix them in the
past. But maybe there is a trick I don't know.

**The one in question today has 3 secondary windings,
green-yellow-green, red-red, and blue-blue. Does that indicate what
the output voltages should be?

It's 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch and it runs a high-quality Panasonic,
clock-radio, sterero cassette player/recorder. Model 680-3870


If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

I have an old Dell Optiplex GL-1 with XP Pro on it. In the middle of
doing something simple, I got an error notification that said something
like, Windows Hard Error. I clicked OK several times, and then it came
back, and I clicked it again several times. Then I got a longer error
message that said something like Windows cannot write to the resume
file. I powered the computer off, and then it wouldn't boot.

I had something like this happen recently with a self-built box running
Windows 2000. In fact, the error message was exactly the same. The only
difference I noticed was that the motherboard would not see the hard disk
after rebooting. If I let the system unit sit, it would run again for a
while.

I put the hard disk (a Western Digital 80GB drive) into another system...and
found nothing wrong with it. I then tried the cable in the other system with
the offending hard disk. Still nothing. So I put the hard disk on the
secondary IDE channel in the first system (the one that broke) and it worked
like nothing was wrong. Then that too broke down with the same error from
windows/failure to detect the hard disk at startup.

I began to suspect the motherboard until I grabbed another hard drive. To
date, that hard disk and system have been working fine. I erased the
offending hard disk and put it in another system. It is still working fine
as well.

Moral of the story? Try the hard disk that won't start in another machine.
Check the cabling too. I still don't know why the drive is rejected by the
first computer...it works fine everywhere else I've tried it--in a Firewire
enclosure, another self-built computer and a Power Mac G4...

I don't know if you can blame the CMOS battery yet. If the system is keeping
good time, it may be OK. Proper and accurate timekeeping seems to be the
first thing you lose when the battery gets weak. I would definitely be
interested in hearing if a new battery fixes this problem.

William

 

[# Fred #]

"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:r4pqo254m84ceubdsu9mmvh92cqg5a9ui3@4ax.com...

AIUI, when soldering to an enameled wire, there is no need to remove
the enamel first. It just burns up and disappears when one is
applying the solder. Is that true?

No, if you could burn the enamel off you still have residue on the wire. Do
you want to solder dirty wires? Use sandpaper or fine steel wool down to
shiny clean copper - works for me.

Otherwise, are there any tricks to repairing a small transformer**
such as used to power an audio device such as a clock radio from
110VAC: I take the cover off and the first layer of "tape" and if
there is only a half inch of wire going to the priamary winding, and
if when I try to solder to it, it breaks off just as it goes into the
winding, under other stuff, I haven't been able to fix them in the
past. But maybe there is a trick I don't know.

A little tricky when the wire is small as its hard to solder (almost no

contact area with the iron tip) and a little pull could break it. But its
done all the time. Clean and tin the tip of the iron would help in heat
transfer. Another thing you could do if the wire is too short to work with
is pigtail in another larger gage wire - twist together and than you could
solder much easier, heat shrink and solder the other end of the pigtail to
the terminal.

 

[George Jetson]

David Naylor <dave1645@comcast.net> wrote in
newsLmdnTUFhIq2LRDYnZ2dnUVZ_rGinZ2d@comcast.com:

in the model your speaking of there is only a FLYBACK transformer, the
tripler is built in the problem your having is the flyback
replace it and you should be good to go VERY VERY comon problem on
sam dung

It appears to be two distinct components. This is the flyback:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c95/greree/flyback.jpg

This is the tripler:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c95/greree/tripler.jpg

How do I test it to see which it is? Thanks.

 

[Charlie Morgan]

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 23:17:11 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com> wrote:

David Naylor <dave1645@comcast.net> wrote in
newsLmdnTUFhIq2LRDYnZ2dnUVZ_rGinZ2d@comcast.com:

in the model your speaking of there is only a FLYBACK transformer, the
tripler is built in the problem your having is the flyback
replace it and you should be good to go VERY VERY comon problem on
sam dung


It appears to be two distinct components. This is the flyback:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c95/greree/flyback.jpg

This is the tripler:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c95/greree/tripler.jpg

How do I test it to see which it is? Thanks.

For starters, you can try simply resoldering the connections to the flyback.
These pins come out of the bottom of the flyback, and extend trough the opposite
side of the circuit board. This is a heavy component and the development of ring
cracks are very common. The cracks can even be difficult to see with a
magnifying lens.

CWM

 

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com>
wrote:

Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.

When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings

 

[George Jetson]

gfretwell@aol.com wrote in news:04iro2hs18iq0surssjpbdpe19t2l9toiu@4ax.com:

Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings

This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix

it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.

 

[EdwardATeller]

EdwardATeller wrote:

William R. Walsh wrote:
Hi!

I have an old Dell Optiplex GL-1 with XP Pro on it. In the middle of
doing something simple, I got an error notification that said something
like, Windows Hard Error. I clicked OK several times, and then it came
back, and I clicked it again several times. Then I got a longer error
message that said something like Windows cannot write to the resume
file. I powered the computer off, and then it wouldn't boot.

I had something like this happen recently with a self-built box running
Windows 2000. In fact, the error message was exactly the same. The only
difference I noticed was that the motherboard would not see the hard disk
after rebooting. If I let the system unit sit, it would run again for a
while.

I put the hard disk (a Western Digital 80GB drive) into another system...and
found nothing wrong with it. I then tried the cable in the other system with
the offending hard disk. Still nothing. So I put the hard disk on the
secondary IDE channel in the first system (the one that broke) and it worked
like nothing was wrong. Then that too broke down with the same error from
windows/failure to detect the hard disk at startup.

I began to suspect the motherboard until I grabbed another hard drive. To
date, that hard disk and system have been working fine. I erased the
offending hard disk and put it in another system. It is still working fine
as well.

Moral of the story? Try the hard disk that won't start in another machine.
Check the cabling too. I still don't know why the drive is rejected by the
first computer...it works fine everywhere else I've tried it--in a Firewire
enclosure, another self-built computer and a Power Mac G4...

I don't know if you can blame the CMOS battery yet. If the system is keeping
good time, it may be OK. Proper and accurate timekeeping seems to be the
first thing you lose when the battery gets weak. I would definitely be
interested in hearing if a new battery fixes this problem.

William

William,

Thanks for the good tip. I'll try the hard drive on the secondary IDE
controller and report back. I did put a new battery in, and now the
BIOS clock is running at warp speed, very fast. Still won't boot.

Took the battery out for a couple of hours, and then I booted up with
no battery. Things worked, but I had to set the time. Put the new
battery back in, and everything seems fine. Maybe the BIOS had been
corrupted, and it needed a couple hours of no battery to reset.

 

[James Sweet]

George Jetson wrote:

gfretwell@aol.com wrote in news:04iro2hs18iq0surssjpbdpe19t2l9toiu@4ax.com:


Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings


This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.

If you know what you're doing it shouldn't be hard to fix, otherwise
take it to a shop or at least find a friend who's experienced in working
on TVs or you'll more likely make it unrepairable.

Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding of
how a television set works?

 

[George Jetson]

James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:Cnkjh.1136$4e.598@trnddc04:

Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding
of how a television set works?

Yes to all, plus I have a set of schematics for the TV.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

elkhound wrote:

"whacker" has been BANNED by Google for stalking

http://groups.google.com/groups/profile?enc_user=OWYeOxYAAADl1Zed_XZW3SoS9yucUvHTux8a9Hv8z7DEdOQDEb554A&hl=en

You've been banned under quite a few names, as well.

 

[anonymous]

You may want to check for open 1 ohm or so resistors on the secondary
side of the fbt, sweep derived supply, whatever you want to call it.


George Jetson wrote:

James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:Cnkjh.1136$4e.598@trnddc04:


Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding
of how a television set works?


Yes to all, plus I have a set of schematics for the TV.

 

[jmagerl]

they make a chemical stripper to strip off wire enamel. I know its sold at
Radio Shack (or used to be sold). DOn't know if an ace hardware would carry
it.

Transformers can get really hot in their cores. I have never seen one that
used burnable enamal.
The burnable stuff is usually used for small inductors that get dipped into
a solder pot. THe solder is hot enough to burn right thru the enamal and
they don;t have to have an extra process step to remove it.

"# Fred #" <noemail@nowhere.net> wrote in message
newsf-dnatiYOPMFxDYnZ2dnUVZ_qyjnZ2d@comcast.com...

"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:r4pqo254m84ceubdsu9mmvh92cqg5a9ui3@4ax.com...
AIUI, when soldering to an enameled wire, there is no need to remove
the enamel first. It just burns up and disappears when one is
applying the solder. Is that true?

No, if you could burn the enamel off you still have residue on the wire.
Do you want to solder dirty wires? Use sandpaper or fine steel wool down
to shiny clean copper - works for me.


Otherwise, are there any tricks to repairing a small transformer**
such as used to power an audio device such as a clock radio from
110VAC: I take the cover off and the first layer of "tape" and if
there is only a half inch of wire going to the priamary winding, and
if when I try to solder to it, it breaks off just as it goes into the
winding, under other stuff, I haven't been able to fix them in the
past. But maybe there is a trick I don't know.

A little tricky when the wire is small as its hard to solder (almost no
contact area with the iron tip) and a little pull could break it. But its
done all the time. Clean and tin the tip of the iron would help in heat
transfer. Another thing you could do if the wire is too short to work with
is pigtail in another larger gage wire - twist together and than you could
solder much easier, heat shrink and solder the other end of the pigtail to
the terminal.

 

[NudoWhacker]

Delusional ripoff artist Charlie Nudo is having another psychotic
break. Note how he's talking about his previous post as if he's
another person entirely.

Go back to the original post, cut and paste, and follow the
instructions. This moron needs to be ejected from both eBay and
Usenet post haste.

On 23 Dec 2006 14:23:32 -0800, "elkhound" <elkhound68@yahoo.com>
wrote:

http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=66fourdoor&ssPageName=STRK:ME:UFS

nearly 1600 positive FB's for individual transactions <snip

Tell the nice people how you BOUGHT all that good feedback by bribing
pissed off buyers with freebies and cash, Noodles. Tell them also
about your shill bidding your own "collsitesnsounds" account, and the
three other eBay accounts that have been shut down for fraud, shill
bidding and other offenses.

Go on...I dare ya.

from over buyers- meaning several are REPEAT buyers

and only 2 negs

seems like a good sales rep to me- he must be doing something right <snip

"He?" Sock puppeting is a sign of mental illness, Noodles.

this "beware" campaign is obviously a bunch of BS... <snip

You defrauded me twice under two different accounts. You've defrauded
many other too stupid to know any better, and engaged in criminal
behavior on eBay.

Now you're going down the crapper. Hope you can swim. Consider
collecting cans.

 

[buffalobill]

note that a neon ac tester will light up in the presence of a working
flyback. but don't play with one just yet, read up on your
troubleshooting questions, please see:
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq.htm
which is from:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Repair.html

George Jetson wrote:

Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi?product=&pid=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

 

[AZ Nomad]

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 00:44:48 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com> wrote:

gfretwell@aol.com wrote in news:04iro2hs18iq0surssjpbdpe19t2l9toiu@4ax.com:

Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings

This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.

You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago. $450 will buy
you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for under $300.

 

[Meat Plow]

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 06:53:45 -0800, cartoper Has Frothed:

know I am in way over my head, but with the price of HDTV dropping
like a rock, I simply cannot justify spending the money to have someone
else fix my Hitachi 50UX15K. So I thought I might try it myself, but I
don't know exactly where to start. I do know enough about this stuff
to know that I *CAN* kill myself because of the high voltage around the
tubs. Thus I know to be VERY careful and not to touch anything that
looks like something that could kill me, which looks like most
everything bigger then a fuse

No offense but you're not goingto fix it on your own.


--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794