Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[kip]

I agree !!
frank

"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message
newsan.2006.12.24.17.33.22.65000@nntp.sun-meatplow.local...

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 06:53:45 -0800, cartoper Has Frothed:

know I am in way over my head, but with the price of HDTV dropping
like a rock, I simply cannot justify spending the money to have someone
else fix my Hitachi 50UX15K. So I thought I might try it myself, but I
don't know exactly where to start. I do know enough about this stuff
to know that I *CAN* kill myself because of the high voltage around the
tubs. Thus I know to be VERY careful and not to touch anything that
looks like something that could kill me, which looks like most
everything bigger then a fuse

No offense but you're not goingto fix it on your own.


--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

 

[George Jetson]

AZ Nomad <aznomad.2@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote in
news:slrneotbsd.8kt.aznomad.2@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net:

You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago.

Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for free.

$450 will buy you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for
under $300.

Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this one
for $50 or $60?

 

[NudoWhacker]

On 24 Dec 2006 10:38:09 -0800, "duty-honor-country"
<dutyhonorcountry2@hotmail.com> wrote:

http://cgi.ebay<snip

HELP GET A SPAMMER'S EBAY ACCOUNT TERMINATED!

This spammer, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, is a well-known
scammer and fraudster, selling counterfeit dupes of 8 tracks as well
as worthless crap to unsuspecting buyers on eBay for years now. He
has consistantly violated eBay's Terms of Service
regarding Usenet spam, to wit:

http://pages.ebay.com/help/usenet_policy.html

Nudo now uses four "google groups" accounts from which to spam:

dutyhonorcountry2@hotmail.com
elkhound68@yahoo.com
prshgry@yahoo.com
backthetowerlines@yahoo.com

Here's a recap of his latest spam efforts, almost all of which are in
groups that explicitly do NOT allow eBay spamming, especially for any
off-topic item:

http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=author%3Adutyhonorcountry2%40hotmail.com+OR+author%3Aelkhound68%40yahoo.com+OR+author%3Aprshgry%40yahoo.com+OR+author%3Abackthetowerlines%40yahoo.com+%22VINTAGE+SANSUI%22&start=0&scoring=d&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&num=10&as_drrb=q&as_qdr=w&filter=0&

Please take the time to take this spammer's original post at the top
of the thread, forward it WITH HEADER to:

abuse@epix.net
groups-abuse@google.com
spam@ebay.com

You may get a "bounce" from eBay, as they like to make it difficult to
rat out their sacred cow sellers, but there will be a link for which
to forward the report.

HELP WIPE OUT A FRAUDSTERING SPAMMER TODAY!

 

Leonard Caillouet wrote:

There are a number of green LEDs in the set on the circuit board and one red
one. What do they do when the set is plugged in and when the power is
switched on? Which ones come on, in what order, and for how long?

Leonard,

I looked all over and did not see any LED's of any sort. I did turn
the TV on a number of times and never saw anything light up.

When viewing from the front it looks like all the high voltage
components are on the left and the low voltage components are on the
right. It also looks like there are two virtical circuit boards on the
back left. Oh, there is also the one on the front panel to adjust the
tubs and the little one behind the buttons on the front.

Where exactly should I be looking?

 

"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message

No offense but you're not goingto fix it on your own.

kip wrote:

I agree !!

No offense taken. To tell you the truth, I don't think I can do it
either, but the one thing I know, if I don't try I most definitly
cannot do it

 

[kip]

Support your Local TV Tech and call him...
Because one day YOU will need him.

kip
<cartoper@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166991033.894039.164190@a3g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

"Meat Plow" <meat@meatplow.local> wrote in message

No offense but you're not goingto fix it on your own.

kip wrote:
I agree !!

No offense taken. To tell you the truth, I don't think I can do it
either, but the one thing I know, if I don't try I most definitly
cannot do it

 

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 16:49:17 GMT, AZ Nomad
<aznomad.2@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 00:44:48 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com> wrote:


gfretwell@aol.com wrote in news:04iro2hs18iq0surssjpbdpe19t2l9toiu@4ax.com:

Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings

This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.

You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago. $450 will buy
you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for under $300.

That was my thought and if this is not digital capable it is a time
bomb anyway. I know I have seen guys throw part after part at a TV
that was "surged" and still end up with an old TV. These things are
wired in a big loop on the primary that includes lots of $20-70 parts
and a lightning hit will take out most of them. If it also got into
the tuner side, getting it to light up is only the start of your
misery.

It is no accident that there isn't a TV repair shop in every strip
mall these days.

 

[Charlie Bress]

"George Jetson" <gjetson1@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns98A392CB4B9BBgjetson1gmailcom@140.99.99.130...

AZ Nomad <aznomad.2@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote in
news:slrneotbsd.8kt.aznomad.2@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net:


You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago.

Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for free.

$450 will buy you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for
under $300.

Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this one
for $50 or $60?

I haven't tried to buy a flyback for a long time. I suspect you will have
problem finding the right one and at a reasonable price.

Charlie

 

[George Jetson]

gfretwell@aol.com wrote in
news:96lto2lk330jtff5mk82v4r2d5q9eqsndv@4ax.com:

That was my thought and if this is not digital capable it is a time
bomb anyway. I know I have seen guys throw part after part at a TV
that was "surged" and still end up with an old TV. These things are
wired in a big loop on the primary that includes lots of $20-70 parts
and a lightning hit will take out most of them. If it also got into
the tuner side, getting it to light up is only the start of your
misery.

It is no accident that there isn't a TV repair shop in every strip
mall these days.

It is digital capable. It's a pretty decent TV. I doubt that there's
heavy damage, since the woman I got it from didn't say anything about
lightning, and all the fuses and fusible links are good. I also took the
high voltage tripler out of circuit and the rest of the TV seemed to
power up ok.

Like I said before, I'm not going to put a lot of money into this.
That's why I'm asking for troubleshooting help.

 

[Rick Brandt]

George Jetson wrote:

AZ Nomad <aznomad.2@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote in
news:slrneotbsd.8kt.aznomad.2@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net:


You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago.

Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for
free.

$450 will buy you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for
under $300.

Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this
one for $50 or $60?

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt" to fix it.
If your time and effort is worth anything at all considerably more than that.
And when the new fly-back is in place there is a very good chance that the set
will be just as dead as it is now.

 

[George Jetson]

"Charlie Bress" <cbress@paamail.com> wrote in
news:Zo-dnWt7bI2zbBPYnZ2dnUVZ_u-unZ2d@comcast.com:

I haven't tried to buy a flyback for a long time. I suspect you will
have problem finding the right one and at a reasonable price.

Charlie

It doesn't appear to be the flyback. It's actually the tripler, and I found
one for $38 online. If it does end up being the flyback, I'm sure I can get
one from the same place.

 

[George Jetson]

"Rick Brandt" <rickbrandt2@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:EtCjh.2958$x67.701@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it is
now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I wasn't

trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing on the
internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.

 

[Rick Brandt]

George Jetson wrote:

"Rick Brandt" <rickbrandt2@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:EtCjh.2958$x67.701@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.

Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely disconnected
from power) that there is more than one place you can touch that will light you
up pretty good. The old rule being "one hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have
about 30,000 volts stored in the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get
your attention as well.

 

[Dave Bugg]

NudoWhacker wrote:

HELP WIPE OUT A FRAUDSTERING SPAMMER TODAY!

1. You cross-posted your reply (I left the cross-posting intact).

2. The OP was posted to a marketplace NG. That's not spam.

--
Dave
www.davebbq.com

 

[Ken Weitzel]

Rick Brandt wrote:

George Jetson wrote:
"Rick Brandt" <rickbrandt2@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:EtCjh.2958$x67.701@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:
Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.

Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely disconnected
from power) that there is more than one place you can touch that will light you
up pretty good. The old rule being "one hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have
about 30,000 volts stored in the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get
your attention as well.

Hi...

I think it specified the "left" hand in the pocket...

Take care, be safe, and happy holidays.

Ken

 

[CJT]

Ken Weitzel wrote:

Rick Brandt wrote:

George Jetson wrote:

"Rick Brandt" <rickbrandt2@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:EtCjh.2958$x67.701@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.


Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely
disconnected from power) that there is more than one place you can
touch that will light you up pretty good. The old rule being "one
hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have about 30,000 volts stored in
the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get your attention as
well.


Hi...

I think it specified the "left" hand in the pocket...

Take care, be safe, and happy holidays.

Ken

So left-handed people can't work on TVs?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Ken Weitzel]

CJT wrote:

Ken Weitzel wrote:

Rick Brandt wrote:

George Jetson wrote:

"Rick Brandt" <rickbrandt2@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:EtCjh.2958$x67.701@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.


Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely
disconnected from power) that there is more than one place you can
touch that will light you up pretty good. The old rule being "one
hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have about 30,000 volts stored in
the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get your attention as
well.


Hi...

I think it specified the "left" hand in the pocket...

Take care, be safe, and happy holidays.

Ken

So left-handed people can't work on TVs?

Hi...

Hehehe.. none that I ever met

Seriously, the theory was that the left hand (shoulder) was nearest the
heart, so the path of current flow would be least likely fatal from the
right hand to wherever it was going, rather than the left.

Take care.

Ken

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson <gjetson1@gmail.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi?product=&pid=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The HR Diemen HR8720 appears to be an equivalent:
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewProduct&id=7357

FBT wiring diagram with voltages:
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewSchema&filename=./img/esquemas/HR8720.gif

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

Thanks for the replies. So I am looking at either poor solder points
or loose connections of the DG board? Do you guys know of a reliable
online site where I can get the replacement parts I need? Also are
there online hardware manuals for this TV or similar so I can have a
reference to look at before I start opening up the TV and screwing
around in there?


David Naylor wrote:

kip wrote:

Dry joint someplace...
Pull out chassis and get the Mag Glass out and look for poor/bad solder
joints.
Very Common.
kip

Abbysmak@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166906909.602508.44200@f1g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I have a 36" Panasonic CT-36G23W TV which keeps on shutting off
intermittently. There is no picture or sound once it shuts off. I
have no LED lights in the front of the TV to give any type of diagnose
codes. It has been happening for months now and sometimes it will come
back on by itself within 5- 25 minutes. Other times, I knock the front
right end of it and it will turn back on. This is not always an
instant fix, it works 50% of the time. It may turn back on and then
immediately off or it may not turn on at all after several hits.

Can someone provide any insight into this issue? This has been posted
in several other forums but with no resolution at all.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ab




on that model there is what is called a DG board it is either stand up
or mounted on the chassic. a plug in board with a very well known plblem
of connector failure ... You can try to reseat it but is most likely
need the connectors replaced a 22, 23, 24

 

It means the crowbar circuit is working as it is suppose to. Most
likely the horizontal output transistor or output is shorted.