Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[someone]

"Max" <max@php.net> wrote in message
news:d7iho0h91ilohmaqtqjeltc947mrqnhhjn@supernews.com...

Hey

I have an old HD, not working.
(fujitsu thing)

Is there a tutorial out there on how to remove hard discs and replace
the casing?

What do you experts suggest me?

Thank you all for your time!

Model #MPF or MPG in the US you have one week to claim re a class action
lawsuit.

o/w unless you have lost data the hdd is not worth bothering with.

someone2

 

[davexnet02]

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 13:31:22 -0400, "john"
<va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote:

Ok Best remove the chassis and get out you mag glass
and look for many bad solder joints.That part you changed
has nothing to do with what you describe.(Banding)
As far as the VDR goes either way it does not matter.

kip

Seems like I goofed somewhere.

Even when I put the old varistor back,
TV will still not turn on.
When I plug it in, I hear the sound of it being
energized followed by a relay click.
(same as when it was working)

Dave

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

MCM has it under this part number for 55.64 ea. US.

SKLPH8147A

Mark Z.


"Stefan Toftevall" <stefan.toftevall@bredband.net> wrote in message
news:c4f805eb.0411041046.3a1ca4ab@posting.google.com...

Hi all,
Well, I got a denon 2000f mkII very cheap and I assume both lasers
needs replacement. This unit are using the SHARP laser RCTRH8147 which
is quite expensive so are there any cheaper eqvivalents suitable for
this player?
The same laser is fitted in the dn2500 aswell.
Regards, Stefan

 

[**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**]

First, check to see if there is a rectifier diode shorted which may have
caused the capacitor to burst. Next if the capacitor caused the board to
change color then you have electrolyte all over the PC board causing
current leakage. Try cleaning with strong alcohol, dry it and then check
for corroded solder connections. If it still won't work, its likely
trashed.

Larry B wrote:

We love our RR-10 and are the original owners (since 1979). Chromed out
with stainless interior and digital touchpad. I do have a service manual but
it does not go into detail on the digital module. The digital module in this
particular model was made by Essex.

Last weekend, someone used it (not personally witnessed) and the digital
module (Touchmatic II) went dead. I don't know what mortal code they entered
on the touchpad but it is truly dead. I have a rusty old RR-10 in the garage
for parts. So, I replaced the tube thermal cutout switch (which was open)
and the digital module. The rusty digital module works great but has a poor
Wife Acceptance Factor. Unfortunately, the original module is still dead. As
a further clue, when the the connector plug for the module is plugged in,
the buzzer should chirp. The original doesn't even chirp.

I took it apart and found a cap that had caused the underside of the PC
board to turn color so I replaced it. I also cleaned to the contacts on an
unenclosed relay, too. Still dead. Since a new digital module is $170 I was
hoping to get some hints as to what would be the most likely part(s) at
fault. Since whatever happened took out the thermal cutout sw, I thought
there may be some kind of deductive logic that could be applied here.

Thanks for any and all insights,

Lar

--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"

The Lost Deep Thoughts By: Jack Handey
Before a mad scientist goes mad, there's probably a time
when he's only partially mad. And this is the time when he's
going to throw his best parties.

 

[James Sweet]

"fecal control unit" <sniff@there.com> wrote in message
news:bungo0tho3k57kmk94jhb3recah4legr87@4ax.com...

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 01:59:04 GMT, "John Smith" <someone@nospam.net
wrote:

snip

Can faulty cable tv / high speed cable Internet installation cause damage
to
the computer and television?

thanks,

John

Might want to disconnect the neighbors cable & grab a DMM to see if
there's an AC voltage{ & current?} diff between your box/neighbors
cable ( test both shield/ground & center conductor).
{I've seen 120 VAC, 120 mA between my old fridge & the kitchen sink!}

Yikes, sounds like you had a grounding issue in your house's wiring, that
could be a dangerous situation.

 

[Isaac Wingfield]

In article <_jBid.364876$D%.192194@attbi_s51>,
"t.hoehler" <t.hoehler@insightbb.com> wrote:

Hi group, I have a question. I have several of these stepper motors, they
have eight wires, three of the wires are about 20 ga. and the other five are
about 25 ga. there is no continuity among the five small gauge wires, I
suspect they go to a tach circuit, but the three heavy wires have 2.8 ohms
from wire to wire to wire.

There is no reason for a stepper to have a tach. I have no idea what the
five wires are for.

Three-wire steppers were used some time ago; perhaps they were the first
steppers? The original Calcomp plotters (ca. 1957) used three-wire
steppers.

You can drive them with three non-overlapping pulses, or you can do a 1,
1&2, 2, 2&3, 3, 3&1 kind of overlap to get twice as many steps.

Isaac

 

[Larry B]

Oh, I neglected to mention that there is also a little beige diode marked
ITT (D202 on the PC baord) that is connected to the cap on the same (-) leg
that the BR was. Its smaller that the standard looking black diode next to
it.

If you suggest its replacement, any suggestions on a spec?

Thanks, Lar


"Larry B" <hatespam@hatespam.gov> wrote in message
news:_nDid.4492$O11.76@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...

There appear to be 3 identical bridge rectifiers on this board. Two are
side by side and the 3rd is off doing its own thing. One of the pair is
directly connected to the cap in question. Should I replace just the one
or
both in that group? Now the question is, "with what?".

The markings are : 7839, VM 08. The mfg symbol is a sylized V (kind of
like
\') in a circle or it could be an A if the printed markings like 7839 are
not necessarily an indicator of what is right-side up. I read somewhere
that
they may be half-wave rectifiers. They look more like IC's than full wave
rectifiers with the terminals coming out the side and down like spider
legs,
and somewhat rectangular. The PC board calls them BR201, 2 and 3.

I have searched Google for 7839 bridge rectifier and came up empty. Sorry
I
am not up on my rectifier specs. Thanks,

Lar




"**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**" <rhyolite@nettally.com> wrote in message
news:cmerg9$k46$1@news.utelfla.com...
First, check to see if there is a rectifier diode shorted which may have
caused the capacitor to burst. Next if the capacitor caused the board to
change color then you have electrolyte all over the PC board causing
current leakage. Try cleaning with strong alcohol, dry it and then check
for corroded solder connections. If it still won't work, its likely
trashed.

Larry B wrote:

We love our RR-10 and are the original owners (since 1979). Chromed
out
with stainless interior and digital touchpad. I do have a service
manual
but
it does not go into detail on the digital module. The digital module in
this
particular model was made by Essex.

Last weekend, someone used it (not personally witnessed) and the
digital
module (Touchmatic II) went dead. I don't know what mortal code they
entered
on the touchpad but it is truly dead. I have a rusty old RR-10 in the
garage
for parts. So, I replaced the tube thermal cutout switch (which was
open)
and the digital module. The rusty digital module works great but has a
poor
Wife Acceptance Factor. Unfortunately, the original module is still
dead.
As
a further clue, when the the connector plug for the module is plugged
in,
the buzzer should chirp. The original doesn't even chirp.

I took it apart and found a cap that had caused the underside of the PC
board to turn color so I replaced it. I also cleaned to the contacts on
an
unenclosed relay, too. Still dead. Since a new digital module is $170 I
was
hoping to get some hints as to what would be the most likely part(s) at
fault. Since whatever happened took out the thermal cutout sw, I
thought
there may be some kind of deductive logic that could be applied here.

Thanks for any and all insights,

Lar





--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"

The Lost Deep Thoughts By: Jack Handey
Before a mad scientist goes mad, there's probably a time
when he's only partially mad. And this is the time when he's
going to throw his best parties.

 

[James Sweet]

"Isaac Wingfield" <isw@witzend.com> wrote in message
news:isw-F34AEF.20183204112004@netnews.comcast.net...

In article <_jBid.364876$D%.192194@attbi_s51>,
"t.hoehler" <t.hoehler@insightbb.com> wrote:

Hi group, I have a question. I have several of these stepper motors,
they
have eight wires, three of the wires are about 20 ga. and the other five
are
about 25 ga. there is no continuity among the five small gauge wires, I
suspect they go to a tach circuit, but the three heavy wires have 2.8
ohms
from wire to wire to wire.

There is no reason for a stepper to have a tach. I have no idea what the
five wires are for.

A tach no, but optical encoders are common, it's the only way to get
absolute position data from a stepper, otherwise you only know relative
position.

 

On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 22:54:41 -0600, Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org>
wrote:

On Mon, 1 Nov 2004 05:55:26 -0500 "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com
wrote:

I am not in disagreement at all that preparation is absolutely necessary,
assuming compatible materials to begin with. The point that I was trying to
make is that without the transfer of energy causing BOTH parts to rise to
the proper temp, you won't be doing any soldering. Oxides, etc prevent the
heat more than they do anything else. Preparation allows the heat.

I think there's still disagreement here. The thermal conductivity of
metal oxides is actually not that different from the metals
themselves, and the oxide layers are so thin that they have
insignificant insulating value.

OTOH, most of the heat flow occurs after a meniscus of solder forms
between the iron and the work, creating a heat flow path that is much
large than the point contact that would otherwise be available. This
initial meniscus can't form until the oxide layer is broken, so
preparation often helps heat flow.

However, even if you have another means of heating an oxidized part,
like in an oven or infrared furnace, the solder won't flow to an oxide
covered part.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

Jim, you obviously were awake in class.

Leonard has that "I have to be right" thing screwing him up.

 

[Ol' Duffer]

In article <ff36ca79.0411042317.1bd2c2fe@posting.google.com>,
eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com says...

Phillips Magnovox 19" TV E37589.

Is this TV of this size and model built on the infamous MONO
sound?!!!!

In the front of the TV are what look like two speakers at the bottom
but - but - but sound seems to only come out of the right side. There
is a headphone jack, and an audio and video jack on the front. There
is only ONE jack for the audio, WOULD THIS MEAN THE TV ONLY USES MONO
SOUND?

They often use the same cabinet moldings to produce
low-end mono sets for folks who don't need all the
bells and whistles. You get what you pay for. Or at
least, you're unlikely to get more than you pay for.

 

[Mike Harrison]

On 5 Nov 2004 05:09:50 -0800, wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com (wylbur37) wrote:

I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
was of limited usefulness.
The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

Here's a post from a while go - a friend of mine has tried it successfully :

The symptom is missing horizontal lines
through text or graphics -- or no print at
all. This occurs when the water based inks
dry at the print heads in amounts that the
head cleaning routine cannot dislodge.

The newer Epson Stylus Color series print
heads are particularly affected.

It can happen whether you refill your inkjet
cartridges or not.

One contributing factor is turning off the
printer from a power bar. This prevents a
complete shutdown and docking of the heads
at their docking stations. You will notice
some activity even after turning the printer
off by its switch, as it continues to take a
trickle charge.

To unclog the heads:

- Run 3 cleaning cycles from the Epson
Utility

- Turn off printer, and restart in Test
Print mode

- When cartridges/ print heads are at
extreme left of carriage, quickly spray 3
shots of Windex or Ammonia onto docking
station(s) affected, and turn off printer
for 5 minutes

- Repeat process as needed until perfect
test prints are restored - usually 2
procedures

We've saved 14 printers this way.

--
Image Control ~ Remanufactured and Generic
Toner Cartridges
Lasers/Fax/Copiers ~ Refill Kits for over
800 InkJets

1396 Kingston Rd. Toronto ON Canada M1N 1R3
(416) 694-7509 Fax 694-7929 ~ Member BBB &
CIPRA
Canadian Imaging Products Remanufacturers
Assn.
Free email help with toner problems ~
http://www.image-control.com

 

[RonKZ650]

Your model number doesn't seem to be valid, but to answer your question, yes
your set is mono. Quite often they use the same cabinet on a mono and similar
stereo model, so the cabinet is set up for two speakers but you only have one
in your set. You can hook your audio output to both the left and right inputs
on a stereo using a Y type adapter and you'll get dual speakers but only mono
sound.

 

[Roger Hamlett]

"Mike Harrison" <mike@whitewing.co.uk> wrote in message
news:vj1no0lf3e7oa1g46ad62hsjuudu63r6lf@4ax.com...

On 5 Nov 2004 05:09:50 -0800, wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com (wylbur37) wrote:

I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
was of limited usefulness.
The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

Here's a post from a while go - a friend of mine has tried it
successfully :

The symptom is missing horizontal lines
through text or graphics -- or no print at
all. This occurs when the water based inks
dry at the print heads in amounts that the
head cleaning routine cannot dislodge.

The newer Epson Stylus Color series print
heads are particularly affected.

It can happen whether you refill your inkjet
cartridges or not.

One contributing factor is turning off the
printer from a power bar. This prevents a
complete shutdown and docking of the heads
at their docking stations. You will notice
some activity even after turning the printer
off by its switch, as it continues to take a
trickle charge.

To unclog the heads:

- Run 3 cleaning cycles from the Epson
Utility

- Turn off printer, and restart in Test
Print mode

- When cartridges/ print heads are at
extreme left of carriage, quickly spray 3
shots of Windex or Ammonia onto docking
station(s) affected, and turn off printer
for 5 minutes

- Repeat process as needed until perfect
test prints are restored - usually 2
procedures

We've saved 14 printers this way.
I was going to post the Ammonia suggestion. It worked for me, and the

printer concerned, was still working two years latter when I sold it.
It is very effective indeed.
It is worth realising that the removing the head won't really help, since
the blockage is inside the nozzles, and not something external that can be
wiped away. The cleaning sponges at the docking end of the carriage, come
directly into contact with the heads, and cleaner on here works, without
risking destroying the alignment of the system.
It is worth also saying, that the Epson heads are far less prone to this,
than the HP cartridges, and when you have been through 30+ HP cartidges at
Ł20 or more a time, in each case replacing them before more than a quarter
of the ink is used, the Epson system does not seem bad. I have never
successfully got an HP cartridge to clean.

Best Wishes

 

[Tony]

--
"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote
in message news:10on0upb86skm06@corp.supernews.com...

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8028c236.0411050509.287d0f5f@posting.google.com...
I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

I'm really serious about this. At work, the teachers go on vacation in
the summer, and when they come back in the fall, the Epsons are all that
way. So we just tell them, the Epson is not a district standard
printer, so we don't support it - sorry. If you get a new one, the
district standard is HP.

Which IMO just tells us quite a bit about the mentality of Teachers and
supply coordinators in charge of our children. The total cost of ownership
for an HP is usually twice that of Epson with lexmark leading by a whopping
margin. So Teachers don't even know about a little preventative maintenance.
Whip out the plug in mid-flight -prior to that looong vacation - spray in a
little Windex: some on the docking sponge and its done.
If you get really religious and cost conscious then a few spent cartridges
and a preventative print , again prior to vacation will keep them all
working just fine. That may not be within the teacher's remit or
intelligence but it works.
In any case vacation School buildings are normally used by parents and other
recreational classes during vacation times so why aren't they using the
printers ? Strikes me your costs could be halved and the tax payer's money
as well with a little thought and planning. Are you sure the motivation for
HP is cost.
Tony
Spit less spotlets - spotless inkjet prints...
http://www.inkylinkusa.com 30% more ink
http://www.aah-haa.com/affiliates.htm
And a nice little earner...

 

[NSM]

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8028c236.0411050509.287d0f5f@posting.google.com...
| I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.
|
| After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
| were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
| was of limited usefulness.
| The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
| indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

Look on the net. Someone sells a cleaning solution for Epsons:

http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/kea0.html (Easy to use, no disassembly
required) - "Do not use alcohol or Windex, they will very likely ruin your
printer".

| I'd like to be able to free the print head carriage assembly
| so that I can wipe the front of the nozzles and clean them,
| but I can't find the right screws to remove.

Can't help, but see the "How to fix your own printer" site
(http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/)

| The Epson website has various manuals to download but they don't seem
| to have the one that I need. Their Product Information Guide on setup
| and testing (sc740_pg.pdf) mentions (on page 15,
| under Related Documentation) the "TM-SC467 Epson Stylus Color
| 440/640/740 Service Manual", but that publication is apparently
| nowhere to be found on their website.
|
| Can someone either
| (a) explain how to remove the print head assembly so the nozzles can be
| cleaned or
| (b) mention a website where the necessary documentation is available
| for download or
| (c) if you have the document, send me a copy via email as an attachment.

 

[Tony]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:eBOid.82130$df2.7095@edtnps89...

http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/kea0.html (Easy to use, no disassembly
required) - "Do not use alcohol or Windex, they will very likely ruin your
printer".
Utter bollocks !

--
Spit less spotlets - spotless inkjet prints...
http://www.inkylinkusa.com 30% more ink
http://www.aah-haa.com/affiliates.htm
And a nice little earner...

 

[Clarence]

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8028c236.0411050509.287d0f5f@posting.google.com...

I have an Epson 740 inkjet printer.

After not using it for a while, I discovered that the inkjet nozzles
were apparently clogged to the point where the "head cleaning routine"
was of limited usefulness.
The printouts show signs of missing lines and "bleeding fibers"
indicating the presence of accumulated residue around the nozzles.

I'd like to be able to free the print head carriage assembly
so that I can wipe the front of the nozzles and clean them,
but I can't find the right screws to remove.

The Epson website has various manuals to download but they don't seem
to have the one that I need. Their Product Information Guide on setup
and testing (sc740_pg.pdf) mentions (on page 15,
under Related Documentation) the "TM-SC467 Epson Stylus Color
440/640/740 Service Manual", but that publication is apparently
nowhere to be found on their website.

Can someone either
(a) explain how to remove the print head assembly so the nozzles can be
cleaned or
(b) mention a website where the necessary documentation is available
for download or
(c) if you have the document, send me a copy via email as an attachment.


Thanks for your help.

I found it is possible to clean the heads by filling an empty ink reservoir
with Alcohol and running the test print program many times. After 10 to 20
runs, it usually clears them out. Then put a reservoir with Epson approved ink
in and test. Repeat as needed. No guarantee. Depends on how badly it is
clogged!

 

[PJ]

"William J. Beaty" <billb@eskimo.com> wrote in message news:2251b4e6.0411051259.431b21ad@posting.google.com...

MSA-1023 2.5GHz 27dBm amplifiers were discontinued by HP/Agilent
a few years ago and don't seem to be available anywhere. Well,
I can get them from Hong Kong if I want to buy 200 of the things.
Does anyone here have two or three that they'd be willing to part
with? ...or know any likely parts sources? I've tried the usual
hobbyist places, but I'm not that familiar with microwave ham
suppliers. This is for repair of NMR research equipment at work.
(The big supermagnets in liquid helium are fun, but maintaining
European RF equipment is sometimes a pain.)



((((((((((((((((((((((( ( ( (o) ) ) )))))))))))))))))))))))
William J. Beaty Research Engineer
beaty@chem.washington.edu UW Chem Dept, Bagley Hall RM74
billb@eskimo.com Box 351700, Seattle, WA 98195-1700
ph206-543-6195 http//staff.washington.edu/wbeaty/

Would the MSA-0520 work? They are available form Agilent....Paul

http://we.home.agilent.com/USeng/nav/-536893722.536886033/pd.html

http://cp.literature.agilent.com/litweb/pdf/5967-5923E.pdf

 

[Markgengine]

I have a little tablet PC with a broken hard drive cable.

I have a similar problem with an HP plotter, I have tried "Circuit Works"
conductive paint. This has worked to some degree, but the closeness of the
tracks to each other is a big problem with this paint. It is so volatile it
does not give you time to apply with a needle point. Worth a try if you only
have one break. Hope that helps, but I am stuck with my job ! -Mark

 

[Jerry G.]

If your set is mono, which I suspect that it is, you cannot have stereo
sound. The set would require the proper decoder and audio processing
circuits to decode the stereo broadcasts.

--

Jerry G.
======

"Eastward Bound" <eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ff36ca79.0411042317.1bd2c2fe@posting.google.com...

Phillips Magnovox 19" TV E37589.

Is this TV of this size and model built on the infamous MONO
sound?!!!!

In the front of the TV are what look like two speakers at the bottom
but - but - but sound seems to only come out of the right side. There
is a headphone jack, and an audio and video jack on the front. There
is only ONE jack for the audio, WOULD THIS MEAN THE TV ONLY USES MONO
SOUND? I was at Target Today and I saw almost the same exact TV,
silver exterior and everything and the one on display had TWO audio
jakes one for left and one for the right speaker.

I want stereo sound, and a TV of this size it's inexcusable... Can I
plug in an external stereo system to the headphone jack on the front
of the unit and get stereo sound or will it only come out as MONOTONE?
Because Monotony is a terrible terrible thing.

BTW- did I get the model Number correct up above? Or is it one of the
other 4 numbers combined with letters at the back of the unit?