Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[a1mixer]

Look in the newsgroups for info regarding Ebay WE solder sales. The stuff in
5 lb spools is selling for hundreds of dollars to mostly asian buyers.

One Ebay seller touted in his ad the importance of using WE solder in WE
equipment for optimal performance. When the asian buyer was asked by others
why we paid hundreds of bucks for a 5 lb spool, he replied that he totally
agreed with the seller's statement. LOL!

I've got at least 10 spools of older Radio Shack "Realistic" brand solder.
Anyone with "Realistic" brand radios needs my stuff really bad at only $50 a
spool ;-)

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message
news:cnahd.36334$df2.33030@edtnps89...

> Why?

 

[techdrive]

Most of the Fishers had a fiberboard bottom in which there are usually 2
little holes that line up with the speed adjustment pots on the control
board. One is for 33 and one is for 45. you can adjust these with a
jewelers flat blade screwdriver. -Mike

 

[NSM]

"a1mixer" <a1mixer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:10oalbm77tn4f5f@corp.supernews.com...
| Look in the newsgroups for info regarding Ebay WE solder sales. The stuff
in
| 5 lb spools is selling for hundreds of dollars to mostly asian buyers.
|
| One Ebay seller touted in his ad the importance of using WE solder in WE
| equipment for optimal performance. When the asian buyer was asked by
others
| why we paid hundreds of bucks for a 5 lb spool, he replied that he totally
| agreed with the seller's statement. LOL!
|
| I've got at least 10 spools of older Radio Shack "Realistic" brand solder.
| Anyone with "Realistic" brand radios needs my stuff really bad at only $50
a
| spool ;-)

Perhaps you should take it to a priest and have holy water sprinkled on it!

Are these buyers the same guys that pay $100's for felt pads from the dollar
store repackaged as 'magic' audio damping disks?

N

 

[Graham]

Also what does BTM mean coming up on one button selection?

Best Tuning Memory.


--
Graham.


%Profound_observation%

 

[NSM]

"Phillip Wu" <pwu@qantas.com.au> wrote in message
news:943cec75.0410311706.d28db04@posting.google.com...
| Hi,
|
| I have a problem with a Hyundai Excel 1994 in that when the engine is
| cold the motor starts to rev to maximum about 5 minutes after starting
| the engine. It will go back to normal after a further 10 minutes. The
| problem is worse in hot weather.
|
| 1. Has anyone seen a similar problem? If so how do I fix the problem?
| 2. When I am troubleshooting the problem is it OK to remove leads from
| the output of the ECM that go to actuators when the engine
| is running?
| I suspect the problem is due to the Idle Speed Actuator.
| To confirm this, can I remove the lead to the Idle Speed Acutator.
| 3. Is it OK to remove leads from INPUT sensor such as the O2 sensor?
| I thought that the 'floating voltage' input might cause something
| to blow in the ECM.
| 4. Do companies sell plug ins which simulate a working sensor?
| This way I can find the faulty sensor.

I see the diagnostic boxes for some cars on eBay USA. Don't know about
Australia.

NM

 

[Jim Adney]

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 09:32:36 -0500 "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com>
wrote:

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message news:j0Tgd.51427$9b.42072@edtnps84...

It isn't just heat that does the job. It's a combination of materials,
cleanliness, flux and heat. I've soldered everything from litz wire to bus
bars and preparation is the key.

You are very much correct except that it is heat that does the job. The
cleaning is necesary for the heat to occur where you want it.

I gotta disagree with this. A good solder joint requires both
sufficient heat and surfaces that are clean enough to alloy with the
molten solder. Surfaces that are fairly clean will be cleaned up
sufficiently to solder by the flux, but the fluxes used in electronic
work are fairly mild ones.

That the different metals actually alloy at the junction can be seen
in greatly magnified photographs, where the % of different materials
can be analyzed as a function of depth. The alloyed layer of solder
over iron is extremely thin, but the alloyed layer between solder and
copper is much thicker, but still less than .001". It's all a matter
of the relative melting points and solubilities.

Like many other things, good preparation is responsible for success
much of the time. When the manufacturer sells a component they
guarantee that its leads will be solderable for some period of time,
often something like 6 months. While the solderability usually lasts
much longer than that, it is often prudent to do something that will
remove oxides from the surface if you are working with very old parts.

For tinned leads, all we need is an occasional break in the oxide to
allow the solder underneath, then it will work its way along the
surface and float the oxides to the surface of the solder.

To answer the original question, a cold solder joint is one where at
least one of the pieces being soldered together did not get solder
actually flowed and alloyed to its surface. This may still give both
mechanical and electrical contact, but neither is reliable over time.

The name (cold solder joint) actually comes from the fact that cold
solder joints often arise when something small is soldered to
something large. The disparity in thermal mass allows the small object
to heat up and accept the molten solder quickly, leaving the large
object still below the melting point of the solder. Until both objects
are above the melting point, there is no chance of getting a good
solder joint.

Likewise, you can get the same effect when one part is badly oxidized.
If the solder can't break thru the oxide layer, we can never get a
good joint, no matter how warm we get the parts.

In fact, a typical beginner's mistake is to assume that the solution
is more heat. While this may seem obvious, the most common result of
raising the temp too high is to burn the flux, as it has been raised
outside its useful temp range.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[jonpi]

You might solve your problem by running Spinrite...it does a low level
format without losing data. MFM drives need low level formating from
time to time i believe. I played alot with this stuff a few years back

john

 

[Bob Shuman]

The channel/other programming is saved to "flash" type memory, which retains
the data even though there is a total loss of power. The time is generated
using pulses (60 cycles per second in the US) from the AC wall current as
the primary timing source/clock. When the AC power ceases, there are no
more pulses so the clock can no longer keep time. As such, there is no
reason to save the time. Units which retain their clock despite power loss,
such as a PC computer, have their clock circuitry powered by an electrical
storage device (battery), but this increases the cost and requires an
internal oscillator clock reference which is generally not as accurate as
the wall current frequency.

Bob

Jeffy3" <jeffy3@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ae6397ac.0411010604.5dabf5d7@posting.google.com...

Why is that? Just curious. The power goes out for 2 seconds and I
have to re-set the clock, but all the programming I have set for
recording remains intact.

 

[Ken Taylor]

"Jim Lazzaro" <Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fae7122f.0411010741.b868c53@posting.google.com...

I have this Masuda S25TXS ctv-8259 whitout the original remote;
I am trying to use a universal remote (auto search) which does make
all the controls respond except for the power on/off button: when I
power off it does click but goes to a spare channel(just snow) and
when I power on it clicks and returns to the channel I was viewing
(with sound and picture, it acts as if TV turns on from an already on
state).

Which one is most likely at fault? the universal remote signal code or
the standby function of the TV? Please help as I need some real
expertise here before I venture into purchasing another remote.

Thanks
Jim

Did you find that controller setting by scanning for the On/Off function,
and if so was there another which more closely matches the set? Sounds like
the settings almost, but not quite, match up. Look for another would be my
suggestion.

Ken

 

[NSM]

"joe johnson" <ahshealy@aol.com> wrote in message
news:b3508a36.0411011133.15abcac9@posting.google.com...
| some fool is is giving away this graphtec linearcorder on ebay.
|
| http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3850067271

Are you that fool?

N

 

[Sofie]

ampapa:
If you did not do any component testing then ....FIRST......You should check
the FUSE.... then certainly you must check the important transistor,
resistors, capacitor and diodes that you mentioned..... then test ALL of the
electrolytics for high ESR with an ESR meter..... if no ESR meter then just
change out all of the electrolytics in the SMPS......not that many ....
start with C 09, a 22uf 16V Bi-polar.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



"ampapa" <vbtalent@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:abe50b2b.0411010425.2b52a0c3@posting.google.com...

I'm looking for a schematic for an RCA VR676HF. It's dead and won't
power up which is fairly common for this unit as I've read. Does
anyone have any first hand experience with this unit?

I have an idea it might be in any of the following?

Q801, R817,R818,C813,D808,D809,R815

I don't have the part# of the diodes or transistor above so changing
them is going to be a problem.

A shematic of the power supply would be a great help.

T.I.A

ampapa,

 

[Gary Morton]

Jim Yanik wrote:

....snip...

First,you don't extract the main board to service the PS.(a major PITA)
You can remove the PS shield(cage) and bottom cover and work on it
(unsolder) from the bottom. The problem is most likely to be bad
electrolytics (ESR),shorted rectifier diodes,and/or the pre-reg FET(on a
small heat sink) is probably shorted. The FET should be soldered to the 3-
wire ribbon cable,its Molex connector should have been removed by a field
mod when serviced(at TEK).Other failures could be the power oscillator
transistors(shorted or open,along with their base resistors,or the pre-reg
overvoltage crowbar;a bad 51v zener,open 3 ohm fusible R,or shorted SCR.
A less likely possibility is a bad HV multiplier.

....snip...

Jim,

thanks for your reply.

I've just been trying to remove the PSU cage, but so far I haven't succeeded.
In fact I can't really see how it will lift out as the turned over edges of
the side and back panel will block it. I can see why repairs could be so
expensive as it looks like it can take a lot of time to get to the faulty
board! I've removed all the obvious screws, but something still seems to br
holding the cage back, so I can't even try to manipulate it. I would hate to
have to take off the side and rear metal panel as the rear appears to support
the CRT and I would be scared of damaging it.

On the bottom Q947 and Q946 look as if they have been resoldered (and there is
a strange flux residue). I'm assuming that they get so hot (possibly due to
the fault) that the solder melts.

I've found some of your other posts which describe problems with the 2235 PSU,
so if I can actually get at the parts I feel that there is a possibility (with
help) that I may be able to get it fixed.

If I get it open I will describe anything looking obviously broken.

regards...

--Gary

 

[john]

The Varistor works or it does not , there is no such thing as
a Intermitant one , if it was faulty your power supply would be cooked.


kip

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 1 Nov 2004 07:41:21 -0800, Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com (Jim Lazzaro)
put finger to keyboard and composed:

I have this Masuda S25TXS ctv-8259 whitout the original remote;
I am trying to use a universal remote (auto search) which does make
all the controls respond except for the power on/off button: when I
power off it does click but goes to a spare channel(just snow) and
when I power on it clicks and returns to the channel I was viewing
(with sound and picture, it acts as if TV turns on from an already on
state).

Which one is most likely at fault? the universal remote signal code or
the standby function of the TV? Please help as I need some real
expertise here before I venture into purchasing another remote.

Thanks
Jim

When the TV "goes to a spare channel" does it continue to respond to
the volume, brightness, contrast, colour controls? If not, then the uP
is probably in the standby state, in which case it's possible that a
standby switching transistor is shorted C-to-E. The tuning voltage is
probably zero, which would account for the snow.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Jason D.]

On 1 Nov 2004 08:06:17 -0800, nathan0214@gmail.com (nathan the great)
wrote:

I bought a Samsung DVD player thinkin tha ti could hook it up wih my
RCA TV model no F27628, but i tried various UNiceversal control
including RCA and Zenith, but all they suck.... thie help desk is all
screwed up...

now they are asking my to get a new original remote control I wonder
where can I find?

Tried those two: All In One and Phlilips Universal remotes?
Both I find better success with these.

Cheers,

Wizard

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

But can they provide a schematic? Or point you to their vendor for this
information?

mz


"Mike" <ifix4you@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:219a69ce.0411010352.4d61f52c@posting.google.com...

Unfortunately this item has been discontinued &
MCM does not care Tenma 72-3060 any more.
Thanks. Mike.


"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:<2uib5qF2bfotaU1@uni-berlin.de>...
...defiantly appreciated

LOL!

Mark Z.

(try MCM at 1-800-543-4330, talk to a product support person, see if they
can help you.)

"Mike" <ifix4you@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:219a69ce.0410300641.18efc7ec@posting.google.com...
Looking for schematic for discontinued item:
Tenma Oscilloscope Model #: 72-3060
Any help would be defiantly appreciated.
Thank you for your time.

Mike

 

[NSM]

"Jason D." <jpero@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4186d75a.4531031@news1.on.sympatico.ca...
| On 1 Nov 2004 08:06:17 -0800, nathan0214@gmail.com (nathan the great)
| wrote:
|
| >I bought a Samsung DVD player thinkin tha ti could hook it up wih my
| >RCA TV model no F27628, but i tried various UNiceversal control
| >including RCA and Zenith, but all they suck.... thie help desk is all
| >screwed up...
| >
| >now they are asking my to get a new original remote control I wonder
| >where can I find?
|
| Tried those two: All In One and Phlilips Universal remotes?
| Both I find better success with these.

I got a Jensen remote at my drug store chain for $3.20 - works well on my TV
/ VCR. This model won't do DVD though, AFAIK.

N

 

[dkuhajda]

Sounds like the tv has a bad/stuck power on relay inside of it.

Has nothing to do with the remote control you are trying to use.

David

 

[Jim Adney]

On Mon, 1 Nov 2004 05:55:26 -0500 "Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com>
wrote:

I am not in disagreement at all that preparation is absolutely necessary,
assuming compatible materials to begin with. The point that I was trying to
make is that without the transfer of energy causing BOTH parts to rise to
the proper temp, you won't be doing any soldering. Oxides, etc prevent the
heat more than they do anything else. Preparation allows the heat.

I think there's still disagreement here. The thermal conductivity of
metal oxides is actually not that different from the metals
themselves, and the oxide layers are so thin that they have
insignificant insulating value.

OTOH, most of the heat flow occurs after a meniscus of solder forms
between the iron and the work, creating a heat flow path that is much
large than the point contact that would otherwise be available. This
initial meniscus can't form until the oxide layer is broken, so
preparation often helps heat flow.

However, even if you have another means of heating an oxidized part,
like in an oven or infrared furnace, the solder won't flow to an oxide
covered part.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Wayne Fulton]

In article <MPG.1bf0719e33fb93089896df@news.comcast.giganews.com>,
andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net says...

Your TV is in cable mode. You need to go through the menus and change
it back to 'AIR' or 'Broadcast' or whatever. Cable channels 14+ are on
different frequencies than broadcast channels.

Yes, I can see now that you are exactly right. There is a little switch
that was in one of the cable positions, instead of TV position.
The mystery now is how that happened. <g>

Thanks Andrew, I appreciate the help.