Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[none]

On 1 Nov 2004 14:21:27 -0800, michael.w.appenzeller@lmco.com (mike
appenzeller) wrote:

davidpi73@aol.com (DavidPI73) wrote in message news:<20041031010837.27979.00003601@mb-m02.aol.com>...
I have a device that uses 6 AA Batteries at one time. One of the dual coil
battery contacts is missing. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?
I've tried Radio Shack and a hardware store and they didn't have one. Thank
you.

Try Mouser Electronics. http://www.mouser.com

They have a few battery clips & springs in their catalog.

Mike
WB2MEP

I scrounge the coil spring contacts I use for projects out of old
remotes or small battery operated appliances.

 

[Robert Morien]

In article <IFXgd.337023$MQ5.292742@attbi_s52>,
"John Smith" <someone@nospam.net> wrote:

Moved into a new house (3 years old) and had an appointment to get Comcast
Cable TV and High Speed Internet installed.

Comcast sent subcontractors to do the job. In the cable box OUTSIDE the
house (a green enclosure) they found that the tap that goes into my house is
broken so they put a splitter on the neighbors cable line, so both me and
the neighbor now share the cable connection.

After few hours the computer goes dead. It does not power on at all. The PC
is located upstairs and is plugged into a surge protector along with the
monitor. The monitor is working fine.

After few hours the downstairs Sony Wega goes blank and there is sound and
no picture. A red light in front of the TV is blinking which according to
the manual "TV needs service. Contact Sony service center". The TV was
plugged in to a good surge protector also.

My question is as follows: .is this a coincidence that I lose both a
computer and TV the same day cable tv installation is done... all in a
matter of few hours?

OR

Can faulty cable tv / high speed cable Internet installation cause damage to
the computer and television?

thanks,

John

How's your neighbors tv and computer doing?

 

[jhill]

It might work, but ballast are not designed for the current thru them to
have a DC component. It would probably saturate the metal core, and the
inductance would then become near zero.
My question is why bother, when the correct ones are available?
"Pedro" <pedroenglish@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:10e8a33b.0411011042.7f3101a0@posting.google.com...

Can a common fluro ballast eg for 20 or 40watt tubes be used as a
filter choke in a tube type power supply? Any idea what typically the
inductance is?

thanks
Pedro

 

[fecal control unit]

On Sun, 31 Oct 2004 01:59:04 GMT, "John Smith" <someone@nospam.net>
wrote:

<snip>

Can faulty cable tv / high speed cable Internet installation cause damage to
the computer and television?

thanks,

John

Might want to disconnect the neighbors cable & grab a DMM to see if

there's an AC voltage{ & current?} diff between your box/neighbors
cable ( test both shield/ground & center conductor).
{I've seen 120 VAC, 120 mA between my old fridge & the kitchen sink!}

 

[sPoNiX]

On 2 Nov 2004 20:23:05 -0800, captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny)
wrote:

I have an old Dynohub that I would like to respoke to use <snip

There's a guide to testing and rebuilding SA dynohubs here:

http://www.toehead.demon.co.uk/ag.htm

Also, SA are still in existence (To an extent) maybe they'd be able to
provide further information: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/

sPoNiX

 

[Charles Schuler]

"Max" <max@php.net> wrote in message
news:d7iho0h91ilohmaqtqjeltc947mrqnhhjn@supernews.com...

Hey

I have an old HD, not working.
(fujitsu thing)

Is there a tutorial out there on how to remove hard discs and replace
the casing?

What do you experts suggest me?

Thank you all for your time!

A modest clean room costs about a million to set up. Much cheaper to just
replace the drive.

 

[James Sweet]

"Lightning" <kym@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:cdaef9bdfa4f1b2069cc2eef2cba0b30@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

I read about your problem. I have a 16" green one that is impossible to
find. I called the manufacturer today (Can You Imagine), they no longer
make the size I have nor do they sell just the black box located on the
back of it. I have had mine for about 3 years and it works sporatically. I
believe it is in the switch that turns it on and off, I will be taking it
apart tomorrow to find out. I did find a website that sells the black
boxes for all sizes for $30.00,it is made by the same company that made
ours. If I discover that I can not fix the switch I will be ordering a new
box. Yes they run around $100, the one I have cost the person who gave it
to me $175.00, so I am definately going to fix it. The website that has
the boxes is: www.strattman.com. They have some AWESOME custom made stuff
that I wont even dare to call them and ask for the price. Good luck, I
hope you get yours working becuase they are definately very cool to look
at.

I doubt it's the switch, more likely a bad solder joint on the circuit
board.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Charles Schuler" <charleschuler@comcast.net> writes:

"Max" <max@php.net> wrote in message
news:d7iho0h91ilohmaqtqjeltc947mrqnhhjn@supernews.com...
Hey

I have an old HD, not working.
(fujitsu thing)

Is there a tutorial out there on how to remove hard discs and replace
the casing?

What do you experts suggest me?

Thank you all for your time!

A modest clean room costs about a million to set up. Much cheaper to just
replace the drive.

It's not only the clean room. As soon as you loosen the discks, the
alignment has gone to *ell.

Why would you want to replace the casing? You don't like the color?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[NSM]

"Max" <max@php.net> wrote in message
news:d7iho0h91ilohmaqtqjeltc947mrqnhhjn@supernews.com...
| Hey
|
| I have an old HD, not working.
| (fujitsu thing)
|
| Is there a tutorial out there on how to remove hard discs and replace
| the casing?
|
| What do you experts suggest me?
|
| Thank you all for your time!

Follow IBM's plan. Use them as an artificial reef, ("What holds 10 Mb of
data or 250 CC of seawater?")

N.

 

[JURB6006]

Hold on here.

I saw the original post but I didn't get into it because I saw there were
responses.

IMO if this thing has digital tuning it either the EPROM, micro or the remote
itself.

Sorry if I'm off base here, I didn't read all the replies, but I thought I'd
throw this out there to see if it had been looked into after seeing the
"thread" still active.

JURB

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 3 Nov 2004 06:17:16 -0800, Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com (Jim Lazzaro)
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Thanks for suggestions, I followed the standby back to an IC
(CTV322S)

FWIW, that appears to be a mask ROMmed uC:
http://wwww.ges.cz/sheet/p/pca84c64.pdf


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Wayne Tiffany]

What if the front TV is unplugged so there is no possibility of the power
supply still running in it? The other thought would then be that there is
something else running that is causing RF interference. Is the motorhome
engine running by chance?

WT

"sandy" <paleonutsandy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6d99d0e0.0411031234.4cdd7c5d@posting.google.com...

Here's what we did:

We finally decided to relocate the VCR to another cabinet farther away
from the tv. We first ran cables to it (from the Magadyne black box"
and tried it out. Picture was fine. So we went out & bought some
longer cables so we could run the cables unobtrusively from the new
cabinet to the TV cabinet. (they do run behind the TV). Hooked it up
and we STILL have the lines though not as bad (and we'll probably just
go with this for now as we're sick of trying to figure it out).

Another thing I tried was running the vcr WITHOUT the front TV being
turned on...and looking at the tv in the bedroom area. It still has
the lines so now I'm beginning to wonder if the (front) TV is the
culprit afterall.

We're still thinking about getting a satellite dish...so maybe when we
have that installed we can have somebody who knows what they're doing
look at it. But if you have anymore ideas, I'm hornery enough to
still want to solve this problem myself (with your help of course).

Sandy

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

st_yar@yahoo.com (yar) writes:

hi
I want to test a transformer it is a dc transformer because after the
ac line he put a rectifier& filter to chopper& to the transformer its
resistance very low when I try test it I think it is a short circuit

The primaries of swithmode power supply transformers are typically very
low resistance. Most problems with SMPSs do not involve the transformer.

what is the meaaning of the numbers which written on it's side

It's probably a mfg. part number.

See the SMPS Repair Guide at the site below.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[Jamie]

Al Bundy wrote:

"John Smith" <someone@nospam.net> wrote in message news:<IFXgd.337023$MQ5.292742@attbi_s52>...

Moved into a new house (3 years old) and had an appointment to get Comcast
Cable TV and High Speed Internet installed.

Comcast sent subcontractors to do the job. In the cable box OUTSIDE the
house (a green enclosure) they found that the tap that goes into my house is
broken so they put a splitter on the neighbors cable line, so both me and
the neighbor now share the cable connection.

After few hours the computer goes dead. It does not power on at all. The PC
is located upstairs and is plugged into a surge protector along with the
monitor. The monitor is working fine.

After few hours the downstairs Sony Wega goes blank and there is sound and
no picture. A red light in front of the TV is blinking which according to
the manual "TV needs service. Contact Sony service center". The TV was
plugged in to a good surge protector also.

My question is as follows: .is this a coincidence that I lose both a
computer and TV the same day cable tv installation is done... all in a
matter of few hours?

OR

Can faulty cable tv / high speed cable Internet installation cause damage to
the computer and television?

thanks,

John


I was starting to buy the coincidence until I read down to the TV
failing. Has anything happened to the neighbor's appliances? I would
start by getting a TV diagnosis telling them what might be related.

Couldn't find the orginal message so i will tack this one.
i have seen that before. neighbor has a ground fault problem
between his outlet and TV/Cable box set. possibly a miss wired
outlet surging about 220v up the line at the correct moments.
cable company should not put him on a direct connection to the
neighbors line, it should have been Decoupled/isolated other than
RF.

 

[t.hoehler]

| > If anybody has any old Western Electric Nassau solder laying around, I
| > would like to buy some.
Why?

N

My question exactly. I have two rolls of 60/40 .031" diameter Alpha brand
solder that was stored in a house in Nassau for seven years under a pyramid

made of copper sheet. Does that count?
hehe,
Tom

 

[Jim Adney]

On 2 Nov 2004 20:23:05 -0800 captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny)
wrote:

I have an old Dynohub that I would like to respoke to use on the
mountain bike which I just built. I clamped the axle nut in the vise
on my bench and spun the hub at what I would guess would be a road
speed of about 10MPH. The open circuit voltage, depending on speed
measured between 6.0 and 8.0VAC. I then tested the hub with a
headlight which has a 6.0V 450ma bulb in it. This is not the headlight
which goes with the hub but I think it uses the same rating for a
bulb. The hub's voltage dropped to 3.0V. Increasing the speed at this
point did not increase the voltage. And that wasn't even full load as
the tail light wasn't connected. Does anyone have any experience with
these things and if so perhaps you may know what kind of current these
hubs supposed to be able to produce?

I don't know the specs of the bulbs used, but I can put you in touch
with someone who does, if you want me to. I recall that both the
Dynohub bulbs (F & R) were rather special and you couldn't just buy a
standard US bulb for these.

The IMPORTANT thing that I really want to convey to you is that YOU
MUST NOT TAKE THIS HUB APART without learning exactly what to do
first. The permanent magnet in there will lose a significant amount of
brightness if you pull it the armature out of it without a keeper
SIMULTANEOUSLY taking its place. If you don't have a keeper, I think I
have one here, or you might be able to make your own if you have a
lathe.

The Dynohub was never very bright, and when these were fairly common,
fully half of them on the streets would have been ruined by improper
assembly. I have a NOS replacement Dynohub magnet in the basement.
They came from SA with a keeper in them. SA would also take back bad
magnets and "recharge" them, but I don't think that was ever done
outside the UK. There is one fellow in California who built his own
charger.

I started work on a similar project and made some keepers, but never
got any farther. I wanted to make a charger, too, but I just have too
many projects.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[davexnet02]

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 19:25:41 GMT, davexnet02
<davexnetzerotwo@hooya!.com> wrote:

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 13:31:22 -0400, "john"
va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote:

Ok Best remove the chassis and get out you mag glass
and look for many bad solder joints.That part you changed
has nothing to do with what you describe.(Banding)
As far as the VDR goes either way it does not matter.

kip

Seems like I goofed somewhere.
Even when I put the old varistor back,
TV will still not turn on.
When I plug it in, I hear the sound of it being
energized followed by a relay click.
(same as when it was working)

Dave
I'm extremely embarrassed to say that in my haste to

test my new part in the power supply, I neglected to
push the chassis all the way into the cabinet,
rendering the front and remote controls nooperative.

Learned a lesson here! I ended up doing a lot more work than
I had to. I could have simply removed the power supply
circuit board by removing 4 screws by itself, instead
I ended up with the whole chassis out of the TV trying to find out why
it wouldn't turn on!

Dave
PS the varistor I put in seems to have helped with the picture
disturbance I was seeing.
Dave

 

[N Cook]

"Terry Brookes" <terryb.nospam@wave.co.nz> wrote in message
news:cm49le$hm0$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...

New Zealand imports a lot of second-hand Japanese cars with the same FM
tuning problem.

The solution is to purchase a device called a band expander which plugs in
between the aerial and the radio and also connects to the 12 volt supply.
The expander costs around NZ$15 = approximately 4 UK pounds and works by
shifting all of the station frequencies up by 12 MHz. In your case this
would give a tuning range of 88 to 102 MHz - I understand that there are
alternative units available that shift the frequency by 14mHz if you
require
the top end of the band.

They work fine!

Terry Brookes




"N Cook" <diverse2@tcp.co.antyspahm.uk> wrote in message
news:3rudnQL28oGPkhjcRVn-2w@tcp.co.uk...
Model MDX C150 made for Japan use and FM band set to 76MHz to 90MHz, UK
is
about 88 to 108 MHz

Monitoring the VT line to the tuner varies from 1.52V to 4.2V from end
to
end of this band. 2 banks of 6 channels programmable in this 76 to 90 M
range plus 3 more that come up annunciated as 1ch with a VT of 5.66V,
2ch
of 6.83V and 3ch of 8.04 V which coincides with a local station on
107.8MHz,
B+(for FM ) on the tuner is 8.29V.

Other than shifting this VT voltage and a 'lying' LCD display anyone
know
how to reprogram these extra 3 channels that don't respond to the Seek +
/ -
buttons or even better resetting the whole fm band.

Also what does BTM mean coming up on one button selection?

electronic hints and repair briefs
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse

But the LCD displays would still read 76 to 90 MHz in these Japanese/NZ
hybrids ?

electronic hints and repair briefs
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse

 

[Peter Twydell]

In message <uPQgd.49435$9b.28979@edtnps84>, NSM <nowrite@to.me> writes

"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d4e7o010kbo00gdrbf337mflgheearg7jr@4ax.com...
| On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 06:39:24 GMT, "Fred"
| <testing@testing1212mouse.com> wrote:
|
| >I'm just wondering... if you call this up and get some gal jabbering in
| >Chinese at you, how do you know she's not just complaining about you not
| >mowing the lawn or fixing that leaky kitchen faucet -- like you hear at
| >home?
|
| Too true...I once heard of a short play/skit where a man and a woman
| sat on a sofa side by side speaking seemingly seductive French to each
| other, in front of an English audience, and the script was basically a
| grocery list.

It's an old music hall bit. They are actually reading the ingredients -
listed in French - from the side of a bottle of HP sauce.

N


There was a record/sketch in the sixties with a couple saying just

"John" - "Marsha" repeatedly, with differing intonation as they went
through stages of passion and yearning. Can't remember the artists,
though.
--
Peter

Ying tong iddle-i po!

 

[JVC Dude]

Hi
Have got cct diags for SX7730, SA7300, SA9800, SA9900 if any might
help.
AW
Wilkinsons , Nelson

"Tim Schwartz" <toschwartz@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:418A27F3.FDC33FD4@worldnet.att.net...

Hello,

Does anyone have a schematic of this (1976?) vintage integrated amp
that they would be willing to make a photocopy of, or scan? Please
e-mail me with details. I'd also consider buying a complete original
paper manual if not too expensive.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics
USA