Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Ken Weitzel]

James Sweet wrote:

sts3234@yahoo.com wrote:

Where can I buy solar pannels for my electric/hybrid car?

*****************************************************
http://groups.google.ca/group/electricvehicle
*****************************************************

Where can I buy some sollar pannels to put on the roof or on the hood
of a car?

The car I have right now, is a total junk. It's a gas and it's totally
sluggish, plus it's old so it smells like shit.

I'm seriously thinking about buying an electric vehicle or a used
hybrid so I can save up on some money. I'm totally broke and I'm
unemployed most of the time. But I have ten or so grand I can spend
from credit if I can put it into something as a callateral that I can
show to the bank, which an electric or hybrid hevicle is perfect
because it barely depreciated or at least depreciates a lot less that
ICE cars. Plus me being broke doesn't help at all with the gass prices,
I can berely afford to drive at all with a car, but I can have an
electric vehicle as long as it has some extra solar pannels and some
extra batteries, which is ok for me in terms of finances because they
will be covered by the low interest loan, easy money.

I'm so f*&#$ng broke it's not even funny. I'll take any way it takes to
save money. With solar pannels, I'm saving like 10% on gas
automatically, plus it's free because the bank covers it, as long as a
keep up a good credit. I don't care if it's sticking out or anything,
as long as it's huge and big and get's me the juice. I'm desperate, I
need to get from point A to point B.


*****************************************************
http://groups.google.ca/group/electricvehicle
*****************************************************



This has to be a joke...

Solar panels are very pricey, much more than it would cost to buy a
decent used motorcycle or scooter.

Hi...

Wouldn't it be better to put a big windmill generator on top of the
car?

 

[Mark Fortune]

mc wrote:

It's not dangerous, but there are those of us who think gutting a Tek scope
is sacrilege. Even if they don't work, they are rarely beyond repair. Gut
an RCA or Eico scope.


"yodleboy" <wang@chung.com> wrote in message
news:1155078095_3505@sp6iad.superfeed.net...

hey, i have gotten an old (1950's) tektronix type 310 scope that i want to
gut and use for a pc case. i don't want to kill myself, so is there
anything i need to do or be aware of? It does not work and has not been
used for at least 20 yrs, so would components still be carrying a charge
and if so what do i do about them. as it is not working, keeping parts
intact is not an issue...

It's sacrilege indeed! I have a 549 storage scope, just a few models up.
still works like a charm and still the single most useful piece of test
equipment I have </rant>

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ZtdCg.354883$iF6.71510@pd7tw2no>,
Ken Weitzel <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote:

Solar panels are very pricey, much more than it would cost to buy a
decent used motorcycle or scooter.

Hi...

Wouldn't it be better to put a big windmill generator on top of the
car?

Yup - and then when you drive the car fast it would charge the battery.

--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Lee]

James Sweet wrote:

sts3234@yahoo.com wrote:
Where can I buy solar pannels for my electric/hybrid car?

*****************************************************
http://groups.google.ca/group/electricvehicle
*****************************************************

Where can I buy some sollar pannels to put on the roof or on the hood
of a car?

The car I have right now, is a total junk. It's a gas and it's totally
sluggish, plus it's old so it smells like shit.

I'm seriously thinking about buying an electric vehicle or a used
hybrid so I can save up on some money. I'm totally broke and I'm
unemployed most of the time. But I have ten or so grand I can spend
from credit if I can put it into something as a callateral that I can
show to the bank, which an electric or hybrid hevicle is perfect
because it barely depreciated or at least depreciates a lot less that
ICE cars. Plus me being broke doesn't help at all with the gass prices,
I can berely afford to drive at all with a car, but I can have an
electric vehicle as long as it has some extra solar pannels and some
extra batteries, which is ok for me in terms of finances because they
will be covered by the low interest loan, easy money.

I'm so f*&#$ng broke it's not even funny. I'll take any way it takes to
save money. With solar pannels, I'm saving like 10% on gas
automatically, plus it's free because the bank covers it, as long as a
keep up a good credit. I don't care if it's sticking out or anything,
as long as it's huge and big and get's me the juice. I'm desperate, I
need to get from point A to point B.


*****************************************************
http://groups.google.ca/group/electricvehicle
*****************************************************



This has to be a joke...

Solar panels are very pricey, much more than it would cost to buy a
decent used motorcycle or scooter.
James.... I think he suffering from the heat wave we have had here in

Canada! <g>
Regards
Lee in Toronto

 

[floormans]

johnnie7 Wrote:

could be a fuse



"Jiri Kuukasjärvi" jiri.kuukasjarvi@XXpp.inet.fi wrote in message
news:Ry_bc.339$Hy1.302@read3.inet.fi...-
Jiri Kuukasjärvi wrote:
-
Hi!

My friend brought me this camcorder with following problem--
description:--
* First the picture on the LCD screen on the side disappeared
* the view finder worked, but camera could turn off any moment
* Then it died completely. No picture, no sound, no lights.

Now, I opened the camera and noticed that one of the wires going to
the
LCD screen was broken, and someone had repaired it before. But the
soldering didn´t last, and so the wire was free again. I resoldered
it,
and checked for fuses.. I´m not sure, but I think there are three
fuses
on that small pcb to wich power cable from battery compartment
connects
to. The suspected components were marked as FUxxxx, and were little
black smd components, maybe 4x5mm in size. "30" marked on top.
Are these fuses?
Any other parts that might have gone bad enough to kill the camera
completely?

TIA!

- Jiri K.-

Small update:
The components that I suspect are marked FU3201 - FU3203.
I did some measuring, and one of them (FU3201) is definately broken.
It´s resistance is ~30k, while the others are at 0,7ohm.
These small, black components are 3.4mm long, 2.5mm wide and 2.2mm
high.

What are they? What values?

- Jiri K.
Remove XX from the address if replying directly to me.
-

Could you repair you're camera?
I can confirm that is is a fuse. I need those 3 but i do'nt no where to
buy them. I even do'nt no where they are located at the camera i'm
using. It's the MV-20i.

I know you're posting is a long time ago but maybe you can remember.

Thanks.

Floris




--
floormans

 

[t.hoehler]

"Mark Fortune" <mark@fortrex.co.uk> wrote in message
news:44d96bcb$0$31644$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...

mc wrote:
It's not dangerous, but there are those of us who think gutting a Tek
scope is sacrilege. Even if they don't work, they are rarely beyond
repair. Gut an RCA or Eico scope.


"yodleboy" <wang@chung.com> wrote in message
news:1155078095_3505@sp6iad.superfeed.net...

hey, i have gotten an old (1950's) tektronix type 310 scope that i want
to gut and use for a pc case. i don't want to kill myself, so is there
anything i need to do or be aware of? It does not work and has not been
used for at least 20 yrs, so would components still be carrying a charge
and if so what do i do about them. as it is not working, keeping parts
intact is not an issue...


It's sacrilege indeed! I have a 549 storage scope, just a few models up.
still works like a charm and still the single most useful piece of test
equipment I have </rant

I second that! Where are you located? What do you want for the scope?
hhhhh - don't part it out, that would be a crime. And to put a PC (piece
of crap) in it, ahhhhhh! The humanity!! <end rant>
regards,
tom

 

[Billzz]

<rapidfire40@earthlink.com> wrote in message
news:l1lld29fui05t54e5ps4cgqc84e6bthh8a@4ax.com...

On 31 Jul 2006 07:20:19 -0700, "Larry Bud" <larrybud2002@yahoo.com
wrote:


Scott en Aztlán wrote:
"Dave" <never@not.invalid> said in misc.consumers:


"nr" <newsreader@midsouth.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1154264626.432744.151220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Wondering if anyone knows why a non-cordless phone would require
batteries for the caller-ID function to work. Forget about any other
features (time, etc.) Isn't the signal from the phone company enough
to display the incoming call's information?

My guess, so that you can customize the display, and the customization
won't
be lost if you move the phone to another jack or disconnect it
omentarily.

A battery backup would only require a small rechargeable cell, or
maybe a watch battery - not 4 AAA's.

I suspect the real reason is that there's not enough current present
on the phone line to power the device until AFTER the phone is taken
off-hook, which of course is too late to actually read the Caller*ID
data. Plus you would be unable to review your calls list, etc.,
without first taking the phone off-hook.

Current doesn't just magically appear when you take the phone off hook.
The way a phone works is that when you talk, the current in the line
fluctuates. This is what carries your voice.

The answer to the OP question is that a telephone is expecting a
certain voltage depending on the on-hook and off-hook state. If you
tried to use the line voltage, it would cause an impedence mismatch and
in effect "short-circuit" the audio, or cause distortion.

There's always current in the lines. I know this because last year I
lost my job and could not pay my electric bill. When they shut off my
power, I just connected a large diode to my phone line. Then I added
a huge capacitor for stability. After the capacitor, I placed a
circuit that caused the DC to be converted to an 60 cycle AC, along
with a voltage regulator. I ran this to my breaker panel and wired it
to the incoming main cables, which no longer went to the power company
because the electric meter was removed. I had lights in the house,
but found they were dim. Measuring the voltage showed I had about 60
volts going into the house wiring. A step up voltage doubler
transformer solved this problem and I ran my entire house from the
phone lines. The one problem I had was that I could not make phone
calls when I ran the electric dryer, range, or air conditioner. I
always had to shut those devices off when I made a phone call.
I also noticed that the retrace lines on my tv set would get harmonics
which fluctuated according to my voice when I talked on the phone and
tried to watch tv at the same time. I just learned to live with that
small annoyance. All of this worked great until I turned on the range
top, range oven, and the air conditioner at the same time. All of a
sudden my phone line overloaded and melted where it connects to the
house. When the phone company came they noticed the heavy load on my
lines and refused to re-connect me until I removed my equipment. I
removed it, they reconnected me, and after they left I hooked it all
up again. I have been more careful since then not to overload the
wiring.

I pity the fool that thinks there will be an actual answer in USENet.

On the other hand, everyone gets an A+ for creative writing.

 

[HotRod]

imagine running a whole house off of 24 gauge wire. Amazing. Not sure why we
install 14+ gauge in our houses. I've hears of ideas like this before they
are right up there with "perpetual motion"




"Billzz" <billzzstring@starband.net> wrote in message
news:c81e3$44daef77$9440b19b$20597@STARBAND.NET...

rapidfire40@earthlink.com> wrote in message
news:l1lld29fui05t54e5ps4cgqc84e6bthh8a@4ax.com...
On 31 Jul 2006 07:20:19 -0700, "Larry Bud" <larrybud2002@yahoo.com
wrote:


Scott en Aztlán wrote:
"Dave" <never@not.invalid> said in misc.consumers:


"nr" <newsreader@midsouth.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1154264626.432744.151220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Wondering if anyone knows why a non-cordless phone would require
batteries for the caller-ID function to work. Forget about any
other
features (time, etc.) Isn't the signal from the phone company
enough
to display the incoming call's information?

My guess, so that you can customize the display, and the customization
won't
be lost if you move the phone to another jack or disconnect it
omentarily.

A battery backup would only require a small rechargeable cell, or
maybe a watch battery - not 4 AAA's.

I suspect the real reason is that there's not enough current present
on the phone line to power the device until AFTER the phone is taken
off-hook, which of course is too late to actually read the Caller*ID
data. Plus you would be unable to review your calls list, etc.,
without first taking the phone off-hook.

Current doesn't just magically appear when you take the phone off hook.
The way a phone works is that when you talk, the current in the line
fluctuates. This is what carries your voice.

The answer to the OP question is that a telephone is expecting a
certain voltage depending on the on-hook and off-hook state. If you
tried to use the line voltage, it would cause an impedence mismatch and
in effect "short-circuit" the audio, or cause distortion.

There's always current in the lines. I know this because last year I
lost my job and could not pay my electric bill. When they shut off my
power, I just connected a large diode to my phone line. Then I added
a huge capacitor for stability. After the capacitor, I placed a
circuit that caused the DC to be converted to an 60 cycle AC, along
with a voltage regulator. I ran this to my breaker panel and wired it
to the incoming main cables, which no longer went to the power company
because the electric meter was removed. I had lights in the house,
but found they were dim. Measuring the voltage showed I had about 60
volts going into the house wiring. A step up voltage doubler
transformer solved this problem and I ran my entire house from the
phone lines. The one problem I had was that I could not make phone
calls when I ran the electric dryer, range, or air conditioner. I
always had to shut those devices off when I made a phone call.
I also noticed that the retrace lines on my tv set would get harmonics
which fluctuated according to my voice when I talked on the phone and
tried to watch tv at the same time. I just learned to live with that
small annoyance. All of this worked great until I turned on the range
top, range oven, and the air conditioner at the same time. All of a
sudden my phone line overloaded and melted where it connects to the
house. When the phone company came they noticed the heavy load on my
lines and refused to re-connect me until I removed my equipment. I
removed it, they reconnected me, and after they left I hooked it all
up again. I have been more careful since then not to overload the
wiring.

I pity the fool that thinks there will be an actual answer in USENet.

On the other hand, everyone gets an A+ for creative writing.

 

[CRaSH]

Billzz wrote:

On the other hand, everyone gets an A+ for creative writing.

April 1st was 4 months ago!

 

[dizman]

radio jim Wrote:

Hi Ray and Reiner.
I also am searching for a copy of the service manual for a NEC MT1040G
data projector as I have one with problems (I have spent a lot of time
searching the NET, all to no avail). If anybody has a copy
electronically, would they be able to advise me as to how I can
obtain/download it.
Many thanks in advance.
Regards Jim.

Hi Ray, Reiner, Sandy, Jim, anyone!

I'm searching for this manual too. If anyone could help me I'd really
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
dizman.




--
dizman

 

[Stuart]

Thanks very much for the 2SC5931 sub for a 2SC5929. For future reference,
how did you arrive at that? Stuart

 

[Ole Geisler]

On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 03:19:12 GMT, "Stuart" <southmetro@mindspring.com>
wrote:

Thanks very much for the 2SC5931 sub for a 2SC5929. For future reference,
how did you arrive at that? Stuart

You could not find it yourself. Got it from a tech note, which is very

"closed source"

 

It sounds like the problem is the fuse box. You need two 100 amp
fuses because you have 220v. if you had one fuse you would have 120v.
look at the fuse contacts, you will see they are discolored. You will
have to replace. them

On Sat, 04 Jan 2003 03:20:21 GMT, Patrick M <bono@info.polymtl.ca>
wrote:

Not too much off-topic, I hope...

Here's my problem. I have a quadruplex. For each of the three
appartments we don't occupy, we have metal box containing a switch and
two 100A/250V fuses. The output of this box goes to the breaker box
located within the appartment.

The tenant came to me and complained about a problem. The most
consuming elements weren't working (washing machine, dryer, microwave
oven, etc...).. the lights were on, but not at their full
capacity. After some research, I found out that one of the two above
mentioned fuses of his appartment was dead. It looked like it
had overheated. I therefore bought a new one and replaced it. An hour
or two after, I went back to look at it and it was heating, much more
than the fuses for the other appartments.

To find out if the problem was in my metal box or in my tenant's
electrical circuits, I went over and shut down every single breaker he
had (don't worry, he's gone for the weekend! ;-). My metal box was
back at normal temperature (cold) after a few hours.

My questions:

1- Why two 100A fuses in parallel instead of one 200A?

2- What could be the problem? I would doubt it to be related to my
tenant's electrical consumption, since his breaker would pop before my
fuses would break, right? It's been this way since our 4plex was built
20 years ago and weve never had this kind of problem.

Many thanks,



Patrick M.

 

[Steve]

peter wrote:

"ray...i need to pay my bill and it works" <ray@austin.com> wrote in message
news:488385381406@news-server.austin.rr.com...


It Will Work. If you do as I have done! Just Do It! follow the 4 steps.
$6.00 to $15,000.00 in 30 days!

Do me a favor. Please lend me one of your name and email address and
duplicate it in the list. When you have made $15,000 in 30 days, send me the
money and I will pay you back the money you front plus interest.

 

[Steve]

peter wrote:

"ray...i need to pay my bill and it works" <ray@austin.com> wrote in message
news:488385381406@news-server.austin.rr.com...


It Will Work. If you do as I have done! Just Do It! follow the 4 steps.
$6.00 to $15,000.00 in 30 days!

Do me a favor. Please lend me one of your name and email address and
duplicate it in the list. When you have made $15,000 in 30 days, send me the
money and I will pay you back the money you front plus interest.

2 words come to mind and the second one is 'off'...........

 

[L.]

"Steve" <emailstevecooke@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1155841649.026292.155490@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

peter wrote:
"ray...i need to pay my bill and it works" <ray@austin.com> wrote in
message
news:488385381406@news-server.austin.rr.com...


It Will Work. If you do as I have done! Just Do It! follow the 4 steps.
$6.00 to $15,000.00 in 30 days!

Do me a favor. Please lend me one of your name and email address and
duplicate it in the list. When you have made $15,000 in 30 days, send me
the
money and I will pay you back the money you front plus interest.

2 words come to mind and the second one is 'off'...........

Apparently he never heard of P.T. Barnum's verse. Lets see if I can quote it
exactly - "there is a sucker born every minute". And in case he's reading
this, the "sucker" is those who BITE in to this B.S. line

L.

 

[kayal]

davie_snert Wrote:

Hi Norman

I have the Denon UD M50. Not having the cd changer problem, but am
having a laser problem - it skips for no apparent reason. Have tried
various CDs, cleaned them all thoroughly, but it still happens. Just
wondered if the repair manual would help. Do you have a link where I
could get a copy of the repair manual? Thanks!!

Dave Marshall

Guys
i have just repaired my first Denon m50 ,(thanks to norman ibbotson for
emailing me his worksheets)
if you listen you can blasting away in the back ground.
my first attempt failed miserably. 2nd time i was away, where i scored
was, before i inserted the first tray after aligned the dots, i check
the back end for the marking on the gears (all four)
1st error a swift a disengaging the cross shaft and manually moving the
gears to the correct alignment and reinserting the cross shaft careful
to keep the gear markings right. i then proceed to insert the trays,
the manual only says about two, the general advise previous to this was
set tray 3 the rear play position. i carried on turning the gear after
inserting tray 3 , tray 2 comes back and tray 1 lifts and tray 3 goes
forward.
reassembled as per manual.
when assembled, if you then look on the top you can see the small
driving wheel i then proceed to turn this wheel (i think it was
clockwise, if the tray moves to the play position then its right) and
watch the mechanism work i keep going though a full cycle to ensure the
was no jam. i carried on to tray one is in its position ie ready to
eject. final check the markings on the gears are correctly aligned.
reassembly.
great the tray work perfect, but the cd won't read the disc's,
disassemble check movement of lens, great reassmble, still the same, i
removed the tray clamp assembly so you can see the laser lens. get a
good clean brush (i used a camera lens brush) and gave the lens and the
surrounding sensors a good going over, result one happy bunny.

so dave i would suggest you manually cleans the lens, but do not touch
the lens with your fingers or use solvents, it can leave grease smears,
a clean stiff clean brush is best.




--
kayal

 

[tomh]

kayal wrote:

davie_snert Wrote:

Hi Norman

I have the Denon UD M50. Not having the cd changer problem, but am
having a laser problem - it skips for no apparent reason. Have tried
various CDs, cleaned them all thoroughly, but it still happens. Just
wondered if the repair manual would help. Do you have a link where I
could get a copy of the repair manual? Thanks!!

Dave Marshall


Guys
i have just repaired my first Denon m50 ,(thanks to norman ibbotson for
emailing me his worksheets)
if you listen you can blasting away in the back ground.
my first attempt failed miserably. 2nd time i was away, where i scored
was, before i inserted the first tray after aligned the dots, i check
the back end for the marking on the gears (all four)
1st error a swift a disengaging the cross shaft and manually moving the
gears to the correct alignment and reinserting the cross shaft careful
to keep the gear markings right. i then proceed to insert the trays,
the manual only says about two, the general advise previous to this was
set tray 3 the rear play position. i carried on turning the gear after
inserting tray 3 , tray 2 comes back and tray 1 lifts and tray 3 goes
forward.
reassembled as per manual.
when assembled, if you then look on the top you can see the small
driving wheel i then proceed to turn this wheel (i think it was
clockwise, if the tray moves to the play position then its right) and
watch the mechanism work i keep going though a full cycle to ensure the
was no jam. i carried on to tray one is in its position ie ready to
eject. final check the markings on the gears are correctly aligned.
reassembly.
great the tray work perfect, but the cd won't read the disc's,
disassemble check movement of lens, great reassmble, still the same, i
removed the tray clamp assembly so you can see the laser lens. get a
good clean brush (i used a camera lens brush) and gave the lens and the
surrounding sensors a good going over, result one happy bunny.

so dave i would suggest you manually cleans the lens, but do not touch
the lens with your fingers or use solvents, it can leave grease smears,
a clean stiff clean brush is best.

Yes keep your fingers and solvents off but do not use a "stiff brush".
The lens mounting is very sensitive and flexible. It would be easy to
damage the linkages that support it if too much force is used. At the
shop where I worked we used a Q Tip, medical grade-wood handle, and with
clean fingers pulled the cotton tip part way off the stick. This gave a
soft but still firm without being hard end. Gently scrub/wipe the lens
in a circular motion. When it's clean you can see a really nice
reflection across the surface of the lens. You might also try blowing
the lens assy with a dusting can, again gently. This will knock out or
dislodge any "big dust bunnies" that might be in the linkage area. Most
PS2's that boot but won't read disks can be fixed with a good lens and
drive sled cleaning. Good luck

 

[nvic]

Report abuse to ISP at

abuse@veriszon.net
peter wrote:

"ray...i need to pay my bill and it works" <ray@austin.com> wrote in message
news:488385381406@news-server.austin.rr.com...


It Will Work. If you do as I have done! Just Do It! follow the 4 steps.
$6.00 to $15,000.00 in 30 days!

Do me a favor. Please lend me one of your name and email address and
duplicate it in the list. When you have made $15,000 in 30 days, send me the
money and I will pay you back the money you front plus interest.

 

[Eeyore]

nvic wrote:

Report abuse to ISP at

You'll need the full headers for that or the abuse team won't even look at it.

Do you know how to do that ? The post was filtered on my news server so I can't
see it.

Graham