Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On 30 Jun 2005 13:06:35 -0700, kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote:

mroberds@worldnet.att.net wrote:
kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote:
I want to find some #6 nylon machine screws and nuts.

I think Digi-Key and Mouser both carry these.

You're right! Digi-Key has nylon screws... about $10 per 100 screws in
the size I seek, and I was getting ready to order some stuff from them
anyway.

McMaster Carr charges several dollars PER SCREW (PTFE -- no mention of
nylon).
Look harder!
McMaster-Carr is about half that.
Example:
p/n 94690A110 4-40 x 1/2" Nylon binding head $4.80/100
p/n 94690A146 6-32 x 3/8" Nylon binding head $4.93/100
p/n 94812A112 4-40 Nylon nuts $5.13/100
Search for 'plastic screws' and 'nylon nuts'
What more do you want?



Steve J. Noll | Ventura California
| The Used Equipment Dealer Directory:
| http://www.big-list.com
| The Peltier Device Information Site:
| http://www.peltier-info.com
 
<Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:1120174978.680967.188300@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Also, another idea involves aiming for the larger 27/60th of a second
window that the prizes do have an equal chance of occurring, thereby
effectively cutting out the register numbers of 28 to 31. This of
course would be much easier to do, and automatically adds about 31,000
points to one's average score.
What would occur to me first is to replicate the game on a PC and build
whatever timing or scoring you need into the PC software.

N
 
kellrobinson@billburg.com Wrote:
This has to do more with fabbing than repair.
I want to find some #6 nylon machine screws and nuts. This would make
my life much easier when screwing down TO-220 transistors. I can't
use
clips on the stuff I make because the transistors attach to the
enclosure, not individual heatsinks. I have my own insulating sheet
material and I don't want to buy a mounting hardware kit for each
transistor, it would cost more than the transistors. I need
nonconductive fasteners.

You can find Nylon hardware at : www.mouser.com

More specifically : www.mouser.com/eagleplasticdevices


--
CharlieMax
 
[Perhaps drop the newsgroup that isn't sci.electronics.design]

Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
[snip scoring and anomaly stuff and prize %'s]
patterns that run from before the appearance of the first prize to
after the appearance of the second, the exact time the first prize
appears, what it is,and possibly it's travel pattern will make it the
reference for determining what adjustment/s will have to be made before
the second prize appears.

***So the last joystick movement before the dot that triggers the
second prize will be the key.

Since our maze patterns have a lot of pauses, the possibility of
resuming motion at the exact same time a particular second on the
display clicks over is doable with some accuracy above and beyond
rolling the dice.
....
As far as drift in the game's hardware timimg, this has already been
considered. But still adjustments can be made by noting the first
specific prize, and then making adjustments for the second prize.
....

I didn't see where game hardware timing drift was considered.
Did I overlook something about drift in what you wrote?

Anyhow, this timing problem looks complex enough -- it looks like the
timer may need to slightly speed up or slow down, or to keep track
of scoring and joystick events -- that the best approach would be
a PC- or micro-based timing program. Let PTP="PC timing program".

You want PTP to provide a seconds metronome, to signal the Banana
zone of each second. To make it actually work, I think PTP would
need to know timestamps and values for your joystick inputs and
for scoring. (See * re getting this info.) With that data, PTP
can get syncronized and accomodate for drift. For example,
suppose you do some joystick movement x and then 5 cycles later
the score goes up 500 points; this tells PTP Orange was on the
bonus timer 5/60 seconds ago. After a while PTP can figure out
where Ms.Pac-man is in its 0...31 bonus timer cycle. If, 123
seconds later, Orange is showing up a cycle early relative to PTP,
then PTP increases its per-second delay count by 1 part in 60*123.
PTP should have an adjustable reaction-time offset for different
players. PTP probably should start with a half-minute or so
synchronization phase, and re-sync whenever player tells it to.

* Getting event data: Of course you could set up a board with
several pushbuttons on it and enter data that way, or have an
assistant do so. This might work if you don't have to sync very
often. Also you could attach mercury-switch sensors to wrists
or perhaps to an elastic band that fits on the joystick. For
definitive scoring detection, aim a TV camera at the screen
area where score appears, and decode it in real time. Or if
the game is running on the same computer as PTP, your program
can monitor some bytes of screen memory.
-jiw

Incidentally, regarding the $49 ebay item
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7526393893
(Datum bc620AT ISA time and frequency counter card) that I
mentioned a few days ago, there is a manual for it at
http://www.symmttm.com/pdf/Bus/um_bc620_627at.pdf .
This card looks fairly involved to program, and if you were
to use it I'm not sure whether it would be better to use
the programmable frequency output (pp. 38-39, p. 51) or the
time coincidence strobe (p. 31) or the 1 pps output (p. 11).
Stability is listed as < 2 ms per hour; long term accuracy
can be improved by inputting a 1 pps signal from a GPS unit.
-jiw
 
On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 20:41:03 +0100, CharlieMax
<CharlieMax.1rgnlo@news.diybanter.com> wrote:

kellrobinson@billburg.com Wrote:
This has to do more with fabbing than repair.
I want to find some #6 nylon machine screws and nuts. This would make
my life much easier when screwing down TO-220 transistors. I can't
use
clips on the stuff I make because the transistors attach to the
enclosure, not individual heatsinks. I have my own insulating sheet
material and I don't want to buy a mounting hardware kit for each
transistor, it would cost more than the transistors. I need
nonconductive fasteners.


You can find Nylon hardware at : www.mouser.com

More specifically : www.mouser.com/eagleplasticdevices
Any decent hardware store should carry white nylon plastic
screws/nuts/washers. Usually in the Jandorf boxes.
 
<rk73737@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1120171710.959456.311130@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Sam,
Hitting the side of the monitor fixed it. Thank you so much.
That didn't fix it, it diagnosed it. Find someone to track down and resolder
the cracked joint or it'll act up again soon, quite likely blowing out an
expensive component.
 
"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:eek:db7c1ld980tat9nckaa33li0fl7q56krv@4ax.com...
On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 08:48:26 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
dave@davenoise.co.uk> put finger to keyboard and composed:

In article <ech6c19ptdmc31tksb4hekb79l40opu5ul@4ax.com>,
Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:
The best you can achieve in a car is to use the car's own kinetic
energy to partially recharge its batteries when the car is coasting,

No point in that unless you're stopping.

... or engine braking during a downhill run.

It's certainly possible, though in a car the energy you recover is probably
less than what you'd expend hauling around all the extra weight.
 
<rk73737@yahoo.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120171710.959456.311130@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Sam,
Hitting the side of the monitor fixed it. Thank you so much.
Ahem, you didn't fix a monitor by hitting it. It only diagnoses a problem.
If you can properly resolder the connections, do it immediately, or get it
repaired by a tech. YOU MAY DAMAGE A MORE EXPENSIVE PART !

I.
 
<geno419@yahoo.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120235480.619647.178940@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Oscilloscope BK 2120 $50.00

Can be seen at address below click on For Sale
Has this scope a broken CRT ?
http://tinyurl.com/9eac7

I.
 
"Raventy" <ano316gamer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1120228628.522162.289470@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Well it only has 2 terminals on it so I guess its not dual coil. The
label on it is almost all gone.. all I can see is that it says its an
8ohn subwoofer. Will hooking this in parallel hurt anything even if its
not designed to be in parallel?
Don't do it. Better to do without. Wait until you find an expert or a
manual.

N
 
I suggested that your approach (precision rather than accuracy) might be a
better way to go, but the guy rejects this idea, but I agree it is a better shot

David
James Waldby wrote:

Note that the clock in the video game almost certainly will drift
around in a range at least 10 parts per million wide, which makes
your 1 ppm requirement superfluous. Instead, snoop the video game
clock and use a buffered copy of it to drive the counters in your timer.
This way your displayed time always is in sync with the video game time.
 
Very fine steel wool or scotchbrite.

kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote:
How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).
 
First, I should admit that my rant may have been a bit harsh. This may
also have been caused by some ignorant people looking for free help on
some illegal stuff (so their questions were very vague and ill defined)
in another newsgroup that I read. I should have only tried to make the
point the input you get is as detailed as the description of the
problem. There was some suspicion your problem being not exactly as you
described, so you would be looking for another solution to solve it in a
proper way. I was just trying to explain the way people react to the
question, I suppose.

Anyway, on topic, I'd like to explain why I stated you should be
sampling at least 120 times a second if you really want to detect
changes that could be occuring 60 times a second. Suppose you take a
sample 60 times a second. Worst case scenario is that a change occurs
immediately after your sample and a next change occurs exactly before
your next sample. You've missed the entire event in that case. The
second-worst case being that a change occurs immediately after your
sample and you record it almost 1/60th of a second after it really
occured.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.
 
In article <1120228628.522162.289470@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
Raventy <ano316gamer@comcast.net> wrote:
Well it only has 2 terminals on it so I guess its not dual coil. The
label on it is almost all gone.. all I can see is that it says its an
8ohn subwoofer. Will hooking this in parallel hurt anything even if its
not designed to be in parallel?
It depends on the existing speakers and amp. If the existing speakers are
8 ohms and the amp says it can drive 4 ohm ones, then two 8 ohm speakers
in parallel give 4 ohms. Approximately. Since no two different speakers
are uniform 4 ohms across their range.

However, the normal way to drive a sub is to take a feed from both left
and right via a pair of buffer amps and parallel them. Then have a
separate low pass power amp for the sub to allow it to be adjusted to suit
room acoustics and your main speakers, etc.

--
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 01:49:14 +0000, NSM wrote:
Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message

Also, another idea involves aiming for the larger 27/60th of a second
window that the prizes do have an equal chance of occurring, thereby
effectively cutting out the register numbers of 28 to 31. This of
course would be much easier to do, and automatically adds about 31,000
points to one's average score.

What would occur to me first is to replicate the game on a PC and build
whatever timing or scoring you need into the PC software.
Thanks for the judicious snip. :)

You can get the source code here: http://www.mame.net/
but you have to have a license for the ROMs. I think I have
a de facto license for game ROMs, since I used to repair them
for a living, and the company copied them routinely so the owners/
operators could have spares.

Pac-Man, however, for some reason, is almost impossible to find, unless
you have an actual physical game that you can pull the ROMs from - and if
you have that level of access, just solder a wire onto the nearest clock,
and clock your joystick sniffer in sync, or whenever you want to.

Lessee....
http://www.google.com/search?q=MAME+roms

Have Fun!
Rich
(I also once had to fix an NSM jukebox... ;-) )
 
On Fri, 01 Jul 2005 09:29:44 -0700, Searcher7 wrote:

Thanks for the advice but this has to be a "real world" experiment. As
I mentioned it involves going for the world record on Ms.Pac-man, so
the gaming hardware cannot be tapped into to or changed in any way. The
player is the only interface, and info can only be received visually
from the games monitor screen and the the timer's display. This all
comes down to human timing.
Then, if you can't hack the physical game, you'll have to do it the
same way everybody else does:

Practice, practice, practice. ;-)

(Although, somebody could probably come up with a little receiver,
that could sniff clock transitions...)

But if you're intending to cheat in a real-live competition, where
there's the possibility of money exchanging hands, I'd venture to
speculate that most of the regulars of s.e.d would shy away from
such shenanigans. )-;

Good Luck!
Rich
 
In article <1120252448.759471.38000@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
<kellrobinson@billburg.com> wrote:
How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).
My favourite is a fibreglass 'pencil'.

--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote in
news:1120252448.759471.38000@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:

How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).
Tarn-X,available at (US)supermarkets,drug stores,Wal-Mart and lots of other
places.Inexpensive.

Wipe on,rinse off,dry.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
A vague memory that Coca Cola does the job

David

kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote:

How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).
 
<sidneybek@yahoo.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120261578.866841.168870@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
20" Goldstar tv model:CN-20B90,chassis:NC-4JA,year:Sept 1995,CSA File
no:LR80622.I need the part # for R811=180 ohm,25w (ceramic stand up) as
I could use these on the tv's listed below:

To know why I need one you can read below:

We in the past several years have noticed alot of those cheap 25" Orion
chassis tv's come into our repair shops with a domino effect of failed
http://tinypic.com/6nysyf.jpg
http://tinypic.com/6nyt1u.jpg
http://tinypic.com/6nyt6o.jpg
is this one ? If yes, it's a real ORION, and isn't a complex chassis, but
fails with the domino-effect you have described... this TV is also sold
remarked by Memorex, or maybe Memorex is the costructor ?

But if this set have those components ?
uC SAA5290PS + EEPROM 24C02
PSU Driver TDA16846
Vertical amplifier TDA3654
Video processor and delay line TDA8361A + TDA4665
Video amplifier TDA6107Q
Audio amplifier TDA7056A
Cathodic Ray Tube A59EHJ by Thomson
if yes, and has "G605" or "G705" it isn't a real ORION : it's only a copy,
with the brand "ORION" used illegally ! This one hasn't any identification
information, only ORION Gx05 ! The chassis seems to be a Philips, because
the components are named with four numbers... but it isn't a Philips ! It's
only a clone, a bad made clone ! Here the photo :

http://tinypic.com/6nywr8.jpg
http://tinypic.com/6nywsn.jpg
http://tinypic.com/6nyy49.jpg
http://tinypic.com/6nyy6g.jpg

I.
 

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