Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[NSM]

"Alan the Tech" <mymail@is_a_secret.com> wrote in message
news:1dmec1tgc2mnufkn2leflsnnp5vt2f9bsn@4ax.com...

A diamond file may be ok for what you do, but when I say hi current
I'm talking 12 to 16 power modules with 2200 amps coming from each
into a common buss line. with a combined current of 26400 to 35200
amps. Start taking material off the contacts and your talking some
real fireworks if you don't weld everything together. And at that
current levels a few mills of oxidation acts like a power resistor and
it gets real hot. I had a 3 inch X 5 inch X 1/2 inch thick contact
plate with just a little corrosion get hot enough to burn my hand. (I
got first degree burns that time) That was before I started to polish
the contacts.

No argument there. I'm cleaning relay contacts - max 5 amps usually and
maybe a lot less. I installed a 400 amp 400 volt busbar system once and I
did that with a wrench and a heavy hand. Expensive stuff to have burn up on
you.

N

 

[NSM]

<c_braley1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1120366882.595572.73990@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Hello,
For all those repair guys out there here is a top of the line Alpine
amp dirt cheap, so please check it out at this link. Cheap shipping.
Here's the LINK


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=39733&item=5785756322&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Stupid title

"Alpine MRP-T406 120 Watt 2/1 Channel Amp NR ! @LOOK@ >>"

Care to guess how many of eBay's 50 million buyers look for '! @LOOK@' or
'>>' when searching? That's right, zero.

Always use every character in the title and never waste one on 'LOOK' or
'LQQK' or 'Unique' or 'Rare'. Nobody searches for those either. And never
misspell any of the words you do use. There are a few people, including me,
who get real bargains from people who can't spell.

N

 

[Inty]

"dfwjas" <dfwjas@gmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120391086.527361.58290@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Any instructions on how I can locate & test the reciever. Are there any
websites thar provide such instructions?

Hum, if you open the set you can remove the principal board... and then
locate the reicever, it's a black or violet thing that's in the direction of
the front panel. If you can't locate it or if you can't open the tv, post
some photos or at least refer what's wrote on the data-plate on the rear !

I.

 

[Jumpster Jiver]

dfwjas wrote:

Any instructions on how I can locate & test the reciever. Are there any
websites thar provide such instructions?


No disrespect intended, but if you can't locate the IR receiver without

help you probably won't know what to do with it when you find it.
-Mike

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 15:52:56 GMT, "Inty" <inty.the.best@email.it>
wrote:

"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:5abdc15ojsfoc475vd43cjmrv64k7eucvr@4ax.com...

It sounds like a capacitor issue, but...that being said, the CRT is
also a capacitor of sorts. That is at least a possibility, and the FBT
as well could cause this problem.

Nah, I think that's a failing electrolytic that works only when hot I
suggest to open the little tv and flow hot air onto the board : if the TV
works immediately, it's a failing capacitors. Because in a too small tv
there are circa 10-15 caps I suggest to change all electrolytic in the
built-in power supply and deflection circuit. Try also failing electrolytics
in the color "jungle" circuitry, and try also the tunner !

What electrolytic capacitor affects the focus, though? I'll admit it's
been awhile since I've been inside a TV, however...

Tom

My approach to this would probably be to set the alarm clock 20
minutes early.

Fun ! But this can damage the TV !

I.

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On 3 Jul 2005 00:30:21 -0700, "larry moe 'n curly"
<larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote:

I want to put my motherboard 32-pin PLCC BIOS chips into sockets so I
can hot flash them if they somehow get erased, as many of them have,
but how cam I solder those sockets to the circuit board without special
equipment? It seems that their surface mount contacts are inside the
perimeter.

Simply, you probably can't. The board is likely multi-layered.

Tom

 

[Ken Weitzel]

Tom MacIntyre wrote:

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 15:52:56 GMT, "Inty" <inty.the.best@email.it
wrote:


"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:5abdc15ojsfoc475vd43cjmrv64k7eucvr@4ax.com...


It sounds like a capacitor issue, but...that being said, the CRT is
also a capacitor of sorts. That is at least a possibility, and the FBT
as well could cause this problem.

Nah, I think that's a failing electrolytic that works only when hot I
suggest to open the little tv and flow hot air onto the board : if the TV
works immediately, it's a failing capacitors. Because in a too small tv
there are circa 10-15 caps I suggest to change all electrolytic in the
built-in power supply and deflection circuit. Try also failing electrolytics
in the color "jungle" circuitry, and try also the tunner !


What electrolytic capacitor affects the focus, though? I'll admit it's
been awhile since I've been inside a TV, however...

Tom

Hi...

I wonder if it's possible that the op blurry description
wasn't referring to what we (using my 50 years ago terms)
didn't mean a 'gassy' picture tube? In today's terminology
I guess you younger fellers would say low cathode emission.

Perhaps we should ask him if he saw bleeding, and/or
beamed out whites until it got well warmed ?

Hey, anyone else here remember those plug in CRT boosters?

And out in the shed I still have an old b&k crt
tester/rejuvenator Still looks brand new, too

Take care.

Ken

 

[Dr. Anton Squeegee]

In article <1120375821.525447.61900@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, larrymoencurly@my-deja.com
says...

I want to put my motherboard 32-pin PLCC BIOS chips into sockets so I
can hot flash them if they somehow get erased, as many of them have,
but how cam I solder those sockets to the circuit board without special
equipment? It seems that their surface mount contacts are inside the
perimeter.

Unless the motherboard was explicitly laid out with the foil pattern for PLCC sockets,
you're pretty much SoL.

How is it that you came to believe E2PROMs can "somehow get erased?" As I recall, most
modern motherboard with FLASH update capability require that a hardware jumper be manually
set before they will allow any writing to the chips.

Keep the peace(es).

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 14:51:09 GMT, Ken Weitzel <kweitzel@shaw.ca>
wrote:

Tom MacIntyre wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 15:52:56 GMT, "Inty" <inty.the.best@email.it
wrote:


"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:5abdc15ojsfoc475vd43cjmrv64k7eucvr@4ax.com...


It sounds like a capacitor issue, but...that being said, the CRT is
also a capacitor of sorts. That is at least a possibility, and the FBT
as well could cause this problem.

Nah, I think that's a failing electrolytic that works only when hot I
suggest to open the little tv and flow hot air onto the board : if the TV
works immediately, it's a failing capacitors. Because in a too small tv
there are circa 10-15 caps I suggest to change all electrolytic in the
built-in power supply and deflection circuit. Try also failing electrolytics
in the color "jungle" circuitry, and try also the tunner !


What electrolytic capacitor affects the focus, though? I'll admit it's
been awhile since I've been inside a TV, however...

Tom

Hi...

I wonder if it's possible that the op blurry description
wasn't referring to what we (using my 50 years ago terms)
didn't mean a 'gassy' picture tube? In today's terminology
I guess you younger fellers would say low cathode emission.

Perhaps we should ask him if he saw bleeding, and/or
beamed out whites until it got well warmed ?

Right...an electrolytic capacitor could definitely be the cause of
that.

Hey, anyone else here remember those plug in CRT boosters?

I do, and I "rolled my own" on numerous occasions as well.

And out in the shed I still have an old b&k crt
tester/rejuvenator Still looks brand new, too

I mainly used a Sencore, forget the model, CR-70, maybe. It's about 8
or 9 years old now.

Tom

Take care.

Ken

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 07:52:07 -0700, Dr. Anton Squeegee
<SpammersAreVermin@dev.null> wrote:

In article <1120375821.525447.61900@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, larrymoencurly@my-deja.com
says...

I want to put my motherboard 32-pin PLCC BIOS chips into sockets so I
can hot flash them if they somehow get erased, as many of them have,
but how cam I solder those sockets to the circuit board without special
equipment? It seems that their surface mount contacts are inside the
perimeter.

Unless the motherboard was explicitly laid out with the foil pattern for PLCC sockets,
you're pretty much SoL.

How is it that you came to believe E2PROMs can "somehow get erased?" As I recall, most
modern motherboard with FLASH update capability require that a hardware jumper be manually
set before they will allow any writing to the chips.

Static electricity...power surge? Chernobyl virus, before the
jumpering practice began, I think...

Tom

Keep the peace(es).

 

[Jim Yanik]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in news:SeHxe.75476$wr.33595@clgrps12:

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in message
news:Xns9687C33BE88A8jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.83...

You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.

I like a diamond nail file for those.

you probably remove a lot more material with the file than with a
chemical(polish) like Brasso or Tarn-X.
Tarn-X is even easier to use than Brasso.

That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

N

Well,then you are not just cleaning tarnish,you are reshaping eroded
contacts,an entirely DIFFERENT task.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[knutselaar]

Phuncz Wrote:

Hello ! I have a Provision PR-DVD2.0 DVD-player with a fried resistor
[R8] in the neighbourhood of the SCART connector. Could anyone help me
out with the value of the resistor [R8] please ? I suspect it to have
a value in between 0.1 Ohm and 15 Ohm.

The power supply is a Zhinan ZN1792-E which can also be found in the
following players:
DVD2006
DEC S2100
Limit JD300A
Bush DVD2004/A

Thank you very much for helping me.

Hello Phuncz,

Did you already got an answer to your question?. If so please tell me
because I have the same problem. Furthermore, the zenerdiode D4, next
to the resistor R8, has been fried on my Zhinan Switch Power Supply
ZN1792-E. Can you tell me anything about it (it supplies the -12V pin
on the connector CN6).

Thank you very much in advance, regards, knutselaar


--
knutselaar

 

[knutselaar]

Renegader Wrote:

Hi there,

I have a Provision PR-DVD2.0 with a Zhinan ZN1792-E powersupply.
The C3 and R4 are broken.
C3 is known, but R4 is not recognable.

Can someone help me?

R4 is green-blue-braun i.e. 560 ohms


--
knutselaar

 

[Art]

Sony authorized service will furnish an estimate and repair the set for you,
at normal charges.
<srinijasti@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1120356550.828210.78280@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hello

My Sony TV KP53V85 is not responding to the sony remote RM-Y905. I
tried the following to troubleshoot the problem without any luck.

1. Replaced batteries in the Remote
2. Powered the TV down for 1 hour
3. Reset the remote after removing batteries and depressing all buttons
twice
4. Got a new Sony remote & tried using that
5. Used the DVD remote that the TV used to respond in the past.

I feel that the problem is in the TV. Any ideas on how I can get this
problem fixed by my self or get it repaired.

SJ

 

[Art]

CRT, LOPT, even a defect in the CRT Socket assembly may cause this. I'd
highly suspect the shop's original diagnostica are correct.
"Andy Cuffe" <baltimora@psu.edu> wrote in message
news:82tec1p98cbcq5rss6k4rgllkh0vovvvc6@4ax.com...

On 2 Jul 2005 19:03:20 -0700, boese.c@maplan.com wrote:

OK, I posted a message a month or so ago, now I have a few more
questions. My JVC 32" TV turned whited and was out of focus. I took it
to a local shop, the said it was the High Voltage Transformer, but they
said they turned the focus all the way one way, and got a fairly good
picture. So I have been using the TV. When you first turn it on, it is
out of focus pretty bad, but after 15 minutes, the picture is faily
decent, not preferct, but not too bad. My question is does this sound
like the HVT?

Thanks


It sounds like the correct diagnosis to me. The only other
possibility is a bad CRT, but they usually aren't temperature
sensitive. If you're happy with the TV it's worth repairing. Do it
now before the flyback fails completely and damages other parts.
Andy Cuffe

baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005

acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005

 

[NSM]

"js5895" <JoshTmp@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1120407747.009649.115300@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

My stove oven's thermostat bulb broke off, I went to
a parts store and they said I cant buy just the bulb
but, I have to buy the whole part, the thermostat with
bulb. Is this true?

Of course, unless you have a $20,000 machine to reload the working liquid.
If you broke a thermometer in half would you expect to buy a replacement
half?

N

 

[NSM]

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in message
news:Xns968875EBCC7DEjyanikkuanet@129.250.170.84...

That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

Well,then you are not just cleaning tarnish,you are reshaping eroded
contacts,an entirely DIFFERENT task.

I find it works for all cases.

N

 

[Inty]

"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:ub1gc1dpntnavo0djnbs3vbicggt428osv@4ax.com...

Static electricity...power surge? Chernobyl virus, before the
jumpering practice began, I think...

I use the "hot-flashing" consisting in removing the bad programmed chip,
insert it in a working mobo, removing the flash from the working, inserting
the bad programmed chip, and flash it, from dos using uniflash !

I.

 

[Inty]

"Telly" <tchm@uiuc.edu> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120401426.731391.283260@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

May I bother you with one more question? Does an online manual
for this VCR or equivalent exist anywhere? The power supply of the
PV-4760 seems hard to get to, and I do not want to damage something
while trying to fix the erratic display problem.

Do not change the whole psu. Change only electrolyitic caps in the secondary
part !

I.

 

[James Sweet]

"js5895" <JoshTmp@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1120418659.327274.11530@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I don't understand, are we on the same page. The oven thermostat
has a 4 foot, 1/16" copper wire, then, at the end of the
wire is a foot long, 1/8" tube. It looks like a thermocouple.
I was wondering if I could just replace that, just like a thermocouple
on a gas regulator.

It's not a thermocouple or a copper wire. It's a copper capilary tube with a
fluid filled bulb on the end. The fluid expands as the bulb is heated,
pushing on a diaphragm which moves the switch contacts in the thermostat. If
you damage the capilary tube you have to replace the whole assembly.