Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Asimov]

"John Fields" bravely wrote to "All" (29 Jun 05 13:45:16)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Wanted: A Very Accurate Timer"

JF> From: John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com>
JF> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.design:25987
JF> sci.electronics.repair:51922
JF> On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 19:53:49 +0200, maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:

In sci.electronics.repair Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
I've got all of the answers I could get here.

But have you read them? Apart from that you may not be able to interpret
them, I know you got some useful advise. I suggested you use an 120Hz
clock, so you will actually obtain the sampling resolution you want. I
have not seen you respond to that, thankful nor rejective. For me that
implies you should really find an electronics designer to work with.

JF> -!-
JF> For me, your suggestion that he use a 120Hz clock implies that you
JF> don't know what you're talking about.

JF> Considering that the OP has specified that: "It must to be accurate
JF> to within 1/60th of a second over the course of 6 hours."

JF> means that, since there are 3600 seconds in an hour there will be
JF> 21,600 seconds in six hours, and since he wants to split the seconds
JF> into 60 slivers each, there will be 1,296,000 slivers in six hours.

JF> Since he states that the accuracy must be _within_ 1 sliver, that
JF> means he needs an accuracy of one part in 1,296,000. Looking at it
JF> from a different perspective, that's an accuracy of +/- 0.000038580%.

JF> Now, what was it you were saying about that 120Hz clock?


John,

IMO, his apprehended requirement seems far too demanding for the task.
The original question was simply lacking in experience but that is no
crime for a novice. He is attempting to do in hardware what is a
trivial solution in software. Anyone who has toyed with simple
computer programming must at some time come across a program example
that attempts to guess at the timing of a keypress. They may have even
come across some that learn a pattern.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Hardware: The parts of a computer that can be kicked

 

[James Sweet]

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:ech6c19ptdmc31tksb4hekb79l40opu5ul@4ax.com...

On 28 Jun 2005 12:00:30 -0700, "fynnashba@yahoo.com"
fynnashba@yahoo.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Hello Pals
There is this concept that I don't understand. Its all about
generating power (AC of course)from from a group of batteriers and
tapping some of the output to charge the batteries-- so it becomes a
cycle. Infact I have challenged this concept until I head it in the
news that someone has developed one in Ghana and he is actually using
it to power his house and a car. My simple college physics tells me
that this will not be possible since no machine or device is 100%
efficient. Can someone brief me on this or show me where I can get more
info on this topic.
Thanks to all.

I saw something of this nature about 10 years ago, it's an investment scam,
no machine can violate the laws of science.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ech6c19ptdmc31tksb4hekb79l40opu5ul@4ax.com>,
Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:

The best you can achieve in a car is to use the car's own kinetic
energy to partially recharge its batteries when the car is coasting,

No point in that unless you're stopping.

or to use the car's kinetic energy to assist in braking.

Instead of friction brakes you use the load from the charging system to
slow the car. So instead of wasting energy in the form of heat from the
friction of the brakes, you put that energy into the batteries.

But there's nothing new about this - things like the London tube trains
have done this for years, although they don't charge batteries but dump
that energy back into the power supply which then effectively gets used by
other trains.

IC engined buses might spin up a flywheel to brake then use this stored
energy to help start off again.

IIRC, the term is regenerative braking.

--
*Too many clicks spoil the browse *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Inty]

<sidneybek@yahoo.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120062930.944271.208000@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

27" Toshiba tv model:CX28613 chassis:TAC9215,yearec 1992,there is no
Sams photofact.I need the part # (& wattage) for R327 which reads green
then blue but the remaining two color bands are burnt,so it's either a
5.6,0.56 or 56 ohms.

Where this resistance is employed ??? It's a resistor-fuse ??? By seeing the
traces on the PCB you can easily identify it... if it's a resistor-fuse you
can use a .56ohm or a 5.6ohm !!! If it's in another section, and isn't a
resistor fuse, you can try .56, 5.6 and 56 without blowing anything out
using a Variac !!!

I.

 

[Inty]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:6wirzx9lam.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...

If it happens from time-to-time, it is most likely bad solder connections
somewhere in the deflection circuitry. Gently whacking the monitor will
probably induce it or fix it, which would confirm the diagnosis. Get it
repaired before the monitor ends up dead.

....or it maybe a defective electrolytic cap !!!

I.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"K-Man" <albertpinto@canada.com> wrote in message
news:1120105191.999990.195090@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

My handy cam (Hi8) has problem loading the tapes. As soon as you load
the tape it will close and in about 5 seconds eject itself. I have
verified all the mech parts they all look OK. Any thoughts if anyone
else came across this problem?

TIA

I'm not a camcorder guy, but these models will do that when the drum fails
to start up after the tape loads.

Mark Z.

 

In sci.electronics.repair John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

Now, what was it you were saying about that 120Hz clock?

I was not presenting it as a complete solution, but as a useful part of
finding another strategy to solve the problem.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

In sci.electronics.repair Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

I read all the advice here and said thanks a several times throughout
the thread, and stated that I got all the info I could get here. What
else do you want from me? The crap is over details that certain
individuals are looking for. Those details are complicated and totally
off topic.

Problem with looking for advise or information on usenet is that you are
not the person who is in control over what others do to help you. It's
the other way around. If someone has an idea, he or she will try to help
you as good as possible. The more questions you are asked, the better.
It means people are really trying to help. In the end you will have to
evaluate all answers you get yourself. The more answers you reject, the
more dissatisfied you will be with the help you are getting. I myself
have not analysed your problem toroughly (as repair and design is a
hobby and I have more things to do for which my time is paid), but I did
try to give you some hints for other approaches that may work. That is
the kind of information you will get from the usenet. With lots of luck
you will find an out-of-the box solution here, but that is in no way
guaranteed.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[Steve Noll]

On 30 Jun 2005 05:45:38 -0700, kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote:

This has to do more with fabbing than repair.
I want to find some #6 nylon machine screws and nuts. This would make
my life much easier when screwing down TO-220 transistors. I can't use
clips on the stuff I make because the transistors attach to the
enclosure, not individual heatsinks. I have my own insulating sheet
material and I don't want to buy a mounting hardware kit for each
transistor, it would cost more than the transistors. I need
nonconductive fasteners.

McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/


Steve J. Noll | Ventura California
| The Used Equipment Dealer Directory:
| http://www.big-list.com
| The Peltier Device Information Site:
| http://www.peltier-info.com

 

[Inty]

"Alex W. Jackson" <awj_in_japan@hotmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1119974781.179293.114970@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Recently, my 1084S monitor which has served me faithfully for some time
quit abruptly while I was using it. The picture and sound are now
completely defunct, and the monitor makes a high-pitched whining sound
when the power is turned on. Can anyone suggest what part of the
monitor may have failed, and is it likely to be repairable?

Yes, the AT2079 EHT Transformer is faulty. Replace it and test HOT !

I.

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On 30 Jun 2005 08:03:38 -0700, lakewood wrote:

kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote:
This has to do more with fabbing than repair.
I want to find some #6 nylon machine screws and nuts. This would make
my life much easier when screwing down TO-220 transistors. I can't use
clips on the stuff I make because the transistors attach to the
enclosure, not individual heatsinks. I have my own insulating sheet
material and I don't want to buy a mounting hardware kit for each
transistor, it would cost more than the transistors. I need
nonconductive fasteners.

X-Trace: posting.google.com
Far too often you find new text posted through News.Google with *no*
accompanying quoted material. But this is the first I've seen via that
route with only quoted material -- and *no* new text.

 

[Elvis Kabong]

"boardjunkie" <boardjunkie@techie.com> wrote in
message
news:1119918254.491919.239450@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

You have mail.

In case anyone else was following this and may
need to know, the following is what I sent to
Travis:

A brown wire goes to one of the AC leads of the
bridge rectifier to the anode of the diode
on the far right bottom corner of the left channel
PCB (the module toward the front of the amp).

Another brown wire goes from that same PCB at a
junction of a 2.7K 1 watt resistor and a
..1mfd 250 volt cap next to that above mentioned
diode on the right bottom corner to the
right channel's PCB 2.7K .1mfd junction similar
location.

On the schematic, the brown wire goes from and is
labeled going from AC bridge terminal
to D7's anode. However, not indicated on the
schematic, but on my notes, the other brown
wire goes to both channels' Q14 collector, C17,R7
and R8's junction - from one channel
to the other.


This is the SWR bias method as follows:
1KHz on signal generator
2 ohm load - one channel at a time
Signal in to Mono Return
Master pot full CW
Effects pot full CW
Bias trimmers full CCW
Variac set to 115VAC RMS
Signal generator output full CCW
Amp on Stereo mode

Raise signal to get 2 volts RMS at output of amp

Set Sweep to 50 ľ seconds
Set Volts/Div to .2 volts

Position waveform to find tiny notch in waveform,
turn trimmer CW until notch removed. Same
procedure
for each channel.


Hope this helps,
Good luck,

Ed @ Sonic Surgery

 

kellrobinson@billburg.com wrote:

I want to find some #6 nylon machine screws and nuts.

I think Digi-Key and Mouser both carry these.

Matt Roberds

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 13:12:57 +0200, maarten wrote:

In sci.electronics.repair John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

Now, what was it you were saying about that 120Hz clock?

I was not presenting it as a complete solution, but as a useful part of
finding another strategy to solve the problem.

Met vriendelijke groet,

Zaadvragende Ogen! ;-P

With Friendly Greets,
Rich

 

[none]

On 29 Jun 2005 07:14:49 -0700, "spongehead" <hgoodale_msp@msn.com>
wrote:

Oy. So just reverse the smaller link wire and spring. Ok, I'll give
it a try. Its going to be a week or so before I get the carb kit,
would another fuel supply needle work as long as it fits in the hole
and the float?

It needs to be the exact needle. Virtually all techumseh carbs use the
same size needle/float.
If the spring link is working in reverse go ahead and leave it that
way.( to much handling can stretch it and that's bad.)
I'd recommend looking around for a source for second hand parts.
I get mine from toss offs, you'd be amazed how many people just toss a
mower because it simply won't start on the first pull or so when they
drag it out in the spring.
Try asking at your local small engine reapir shop for that needle,
they might sell you one for next to nothing.
If all else fails give me your address and I can send you one cod on
the postage.(I still have a few in my parts bins.

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 05:07:38 -0700, Tim Shoppa wrote:

It uses registers that change every 1/60th of a
second to make certain occurances "random". If one
could react with an accuracy of 1/60th of
a second, then these occurances would
follow a predictable pattern. But
of course that kind of timing is not humanly
possible with any kind of consistency.

I'm guessing that you're trying to beat some sort of gambling/gaming
system that uses a pseudorandom sequence clocked at 60Hz. A few
off-the-wall comments:

1. You don't have to do it consistently, just enough to put the odds
in your favor. Most games are set by law to returns in the 40-48%
range. Just "hitting the button" in a 1/6 second window (sounds
feasible to me) where you know you've got a 7 or 8 out of 10 chance is
way better. You don't wait for the 1/60th of a second where you know
you win, but instead you wait for a 1/6sec window where there's a
really good chance you'll win.

2. The gaming system's clock is probably nowhere near the 1ppm
accuracy you're stating that you require. It would probably make more
sense to try to phase-lock the "guesser" to the system. This isn't
easy if there's a lot of noise and other pseudo-random uncertainties
involved, but it's not impossible.

If the gaming system is locked to AC power, then there's enough 60Hz
ripple in the light out of a fluorescent or incadescent to lock to that
easily.

I'd be very surprised if a gaming system had a 1/60 second clock, BTW.

DOOOD!!!!! =:-O

He's trying to cheat the slots?!?!??? F-ck, man, I thought he
just wanted to reinvent Bazo's Breaker or something.

Speaking of screwing a casino, I'd rather deal with real feds than
casino security. Like, for example, printing out a scan of a bill,
then trying to use it in a casino changer - you wouldn't even
make it out of the building. (although, I haven't tried to pass one
to a blackjack dealer...) But the little girl at the bank teller window
will happily break it to small bills for you - or actually, the easiest
place to pass bogus bills is at the nudie bar - you flash your bogus
twenty, and ask the babe for change. Then you leave, and go to the next
nudie bar, where you rip off another bimbo $19.00.

It's almost trivial. >;->

(of course, if you're going for hundreds or thousands, then you'll
have to find your own foreign investors. I hear gun-running pays
pretty well, if you like that sort of people.)

Chears!
Rich

 

In sci.electronics.repair Rich Grise <eatmyshorts@doubleclick.net> wrote:

Zaadvragende Ogen! ;-P

Next time, say that to a girl... Or better yet, about a girl behind her
back ;-)

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[Peter Duck]

In message <t2q5c1tvoncjud7q700smltovls8l719s6@4ax.com>
John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

... I suggested you use an 120Hz clock, so you will actually obtain
the sampling resolution you want...

For me, your suggestion that he use a 120Hz clock implies that you
don't know what you're talking about.

It seems to me a perfectly valid point, illustrating the universal
truth, hopefully familiar to anyone with an address such as yours, that
the accuracy/resolution of any measuring-instrument must be higher than
that required of the measurements to be made.

Considering that the OP has specified that: "It must to be accurate
to within 1/60th of a second over the course of 6 hours." ... means
that he needs an accuracy of one part in 1,296,000 ...

Now, what was it you were saying about that 120Hz clock?

Nothing about how its accuracy could be achieved; only, by implication,
that this should be better than 1 part in 2.6 million rather than 1.3

Non-trivial in isolation, but 'standard frequency/time' transmissions
make available to everyone within range the accuracy in which national
standards-bureaux have heavily invested: propagation-variability still
leaves the result 'better' than anything feasible to achieve otherwise.

'Radio-controlled' clocks locked to these are cheap domestic commodity
items, though for any serious application modification/additions would
be needed to produce/use an 'electronic' output instead of the normal
'visual' one. (They don't usually even have a 'stopwatch' mode, for
starters, though Ł8/$15 watches available here do)
This, however, would need more knowledge/skills than the OP claims.

Though still unconvinced of the relevance of such accuracy-requirement
to what little I've grasped of the clock-watching/button-pushing(!)
application, the discussion IMO remains of some academic interest, if OT
in a 'repair' NG ...

--
Peter Duck <pduck@zetnet.co.uk>

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 08:48:26 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> put finger to keyboard and composed:

In article <ech6c19ptdmc31tksb4hekb79l40opu5ul@4ax.com>,
Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:
The best you can achieve in a car is to use the car's own kinetic
energy to partially recharge its batteries when the car is coasting,

No point in that unless you're stopping.

.... or engine braking during a downhill run.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Hitting the side of the monitor fixed it. Thank you so much.

It won't last long.

Find someone who can inspect and resolder some bad connections.

If you don't get it fixed properly, there may come a time where
smacking it won't help and then the repair costs will be much greater.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.