Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 10:06:02 -0700, Searcher7 wrote:
[and seems to have snipped all attribution]
Now if this is so difficult to understand, then the more complex timer
will be near impossible to explain.

Perhaps your problem is that you don't know what you are doing.
Feel free to convince us otherwise.

The problem is the criticizing of my needs and the suggestion of
alternatives by those unfamiliar with the project. The initial question
was simple, and I thank those who gave me their best answers.
Click to expand...
We are "unfamiliar with the project" because you haven't _told_ us
anything about the project. You've made some obscure reference to
video games;

What do you need to time?

What are you trying to accomplish?

Yeah, the question was simple. "I need to time an interval to an
accuracy of 1/60 second, over a span of possibly 6 hours."

People who have many years' experience have informed you of almost
a half-dozen ways to accomplish this, but apparently they're
unsatisfactory.

And newbies wonder why us crusty old farts get annoyed at newbies.

Get to the f---ing point, rather than bitching about the suggestions
that have been offered based on nothing more than the above, with
a dollop of mind reading thrown in. In Other Words, What Are You
Trying To Accomplish?

Thanks,
Rich
 
On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 13:31:37 -0500, John Fields wrote:

On 27 Jun 2005 10:09:50 -0700, Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

The problem is getting a timer.

---
I can build exactly what you want. Email me if you're interested with
how much you're prepared to spend to get it.
Click to expand...
Me Too!

;-)
Rich
BTW, the email is richardgrise at yahoo dot com, but elide ard.
 
On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 23:00:46 -0700, Searcher7 wrote:

This is actually much simpler than the original project which involves
more than just a timer, but the ability to record the time of each of
four (joystick)input activations/deactivations, which could number over
300 over the course of between 2 and 3 minutes. And then play them back
the same way.(Thereby replicating my moves with that 1/60th of a second
accuracy). But since I am having such difficulty with this, the
original needs are definitely out of the question anytime soon.
Click to expand...
Well, Jesus Aitch! Why didn't you just say so? There's probably a
dozen people here who could design a joystick tracker with millisecond
accuracy, and record switch closures to microsecond tolerances. I'd
lighten up a bit on looking for a coincidence detector, which is not
going to happen unless you can physically hack the game you're trying
to hack.

If you're looking at reaction time stuff, then you'll have to find
a biology or anatomy group, although I'd still venture to guess that
most people who are conversant with this level of electronics
probably know something about nerve impulse propagation and
electromyelographic interfaces. Heck, a year or so ago, I was being
tested for neuropathy, and they taped some electrodes that look
very much like EKG or EEG electrodes to my legs, and the nurse (or
lady doctor - we didn't get into that) took a hand-held that looked
so much like a stun gun that when I said, "Stun Gun???" she said,
"That's what everybody says." They stunned me, and they took
readings of my neural response. Diagnosis: Alcoholic Neuropathy.

Oh, well.

You might also look into the source code for "MAME" - Multiple
Arcade Machine Emulator. I play Mr. Do! and Bubble Bobble regularly,
and am considering something much like your project, to see how the
software uses joystick/button actions to modify its own algorithm!

Good Luck!
Rich
 
"fynnashba@yahoo.com" <fynnashba@yahoo.com> writes:

Hello Pals
There is this concept that I don't understand. Its all about
generating power (AC of course)from from a group of batteriers and
tapping some of the output to charge the batteries-- so it becomes a
cycle. Infact I have challenged this concept until I head it in the
news that someone has developed one in Ghana and he is actually using
it to power his house and a car. My simple college physics tells me
that this will not be possible since no machine or device is 100%
efficient. Can someone brief me on this or show me where I can get more
info on this topic.
Click to expand...
In a word, BS. :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
In sci.electronics.repair Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
I said in my very first post that I was looking for an electronic timer
that is accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of 6
hours. Then the thread turned into questions concerning my project and
assumptions as to why what I ask for wasn't logical.
Click to expand...
I think for you to measure an event with an accuracy of 1/60th of a
second, you need to take measurements at least 120 times a second (well
known theorem, I forgot the name).

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.
 
maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

I said in my very first post that I was looking for an electronic timer
that is accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of 6
hours. Then the thread turned into questions concerning my project and
assumptions as to why what I ask for wasn't logical.


I think for you to measure an event with an accuracy of 1/60th of a
second, you need to take measurements at least 120 times a second (well
known theorem, I forgot the name).
Click to expand...
That would be Shannon.
 
This Guy in Ghana , Most probably has a relative in Nigeria
that wishes to put $10.000.000.00 into your Bank Account.
Haven't you answered your own question ?

kip


<fynnashba@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119985230.879523.5890@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hello Pals
There is this concept that I don't understand. Its all about
generating power (AC of course)from from a group of batteriers and
tapping some of the output to charge the batteries-- so it becomes a
cycle. Infact I have challenged this concept until I head it in the
news that someone has developed one in Ghana and he is actually using
it to power his house and a car.
Click to expand...
My simple college physics tells me
that this will not be possible since no machine or device is 100%
efficient.

Can someone brief me on this or show me where I can get more
info on this topic.
Thanks to all.
Click to expand...
 
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 07:35:18 -0400, "pippy"
<plongstocking@buuifewf.net> wrote:

You should forget that TV. check around yardsales, moving
sales etc..... lots of times you`ll be amazed at the bargains one can
find.picked up 27`color TV panasonic with remote, and 20` inch TV with
remote for $40 bucks (both work great)at a moving sale. probly get 32` for
$75. seek and you shall find.
Click to expand...
Ummm...you DO know that this is a 50" projection TV that he is
referring to, right?

Tom

"darren" <avitechelectronics@shaw-dot-ca.no-spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:11c15p7sia86md9@corp.supernews.com...
h- output shorting and blowing power supply transistors, and resistor
very common issue with that TV. price sounds about right.



"JANA" <jana@ca.inter.net> wrote in message
news:3ic51qFkmjhhU2@uni-berlin.de...
I have a strong feeling that the service man you bring the set to, is
going
to change the flyback. These commonly cause problems in these sets.

--

JANA
_____


stokesb@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1119885190.615560.76990@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hitachi model #50EX10B - Yes, I posted months ago about this same set.
Sorry, but I still need help. Keeps blowing horizontal outputs. Flyback
primary checked good. Seems like it blows right when the high voltage
is starting to come up. B+ voltage dead on accurate. I have checked
several caps for leakage and ESR, just about every diode, and can't
find a faulty component. Have removed the CRT boards in case of bad
tube, but don't get high voltage. Maybe protective shutdown with no
load? Anyhow, it blows them when everything is connected. Should I be
looking on the primary side circuit of the flyback, or could this be a
faulty load on one of the secondary's circuits? I am close to bringing
it to a shop and paying for repair or info on what's wrong. Last call
on this one. Thanks group.
Click to expand...
 
In article <42c1a9eb$0$31772$636a15ce@news.free.fr>,
obones_gfd_@_gfd_altern.org says...
maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

I said in my very first post that I was looking for an electronic timer
that is accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of 6
hours. Then the thread turned into questions concerning my project and
assumptions as to why what I ask for wasn't logical.


I think for you to measure an event with an accuracy of 1/60th of a
second, you need to take measurements at least 120 times a second (well
known theorem, I forgot the name).

That would be Shannon.

No, that would by Nyquist. Shannon limits the data rate, based on
Click to expand...
bandwidth and S/N ratio.

--
Keith
 
On 28 Jun 2005 12:00:30 -0700, "fynnashba@yahoo.com"
<fynnashba@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hello Pals
There is this concept that I don't understand. Its all about
generating power (AC of course)from from a group of batteriers and
tapping some of the output to charge the batteries-- so it becomes a
cycle. Infact I have challenged this concept until I head it in the
news that someone has developed one in Ghana and he is actually using
it to power his house and a car. My simple college physics tells me
that this will not be possible since no machine or device is 100%
efficient. Can someone brief me on this or show me where I can get more
info on this topic.
Thanks to all.
Click to expand...
There is no free lunch.

Seriously...the only thing I know of that does "something" like this,
more output than input (in appearance) is a heat pump, and it has an
auxiliary source of heat which actually provides the heat.

Tom
 
Hi,

Had a newbie problem, couldn't figure out how to reply to my original
message. My apologies to the person who helped me. I think my answer went
directly to their email by mistake.

Here is the further information from today.

Okay, I inserted the disc and it loads properly. Meaning the carriage takes
the disc inside the machine and clamps it to the turntable. At this point, I
am able to rotate the disc with my finger, in either direction. Meaning I
can spin the disc freely, but does not have play up and down. I press play
and the disc spins, there is a noise like loose stones rolling around inside
the deck, the disc slows, slips a great a deal, then it comes to a halt. I
advance the track to 2, and the disc spins much faster, then the same
rolling stones noise, the disc stops playing and then slowly comes to a
halt, like what you would expect if you had pressed the stop button.

I hope this is clear, I am a newbie, you know.

Thanks
Steve

--
Stephen A Vicinanza
Vicinanza Associates
121 Hickory Ave
Staten Island NY 10305
1 718 981 2303
1 917 681 8788
vassociates@si.rr.com
 
Henrique Loureiro wrote:
I need to repair a PC board that use the VT82885N. I can't find the
datasheet of this chip in the internet. Thoes anyone have the VT82885N
datasheet?
Thanks
Henrique Loureiro

I can send you to a Russian site that has the PDF for this chip. It is:
Click to expand...
http://www.duty.ru/~babolo/io/885.pdf
 
<fynnashba@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119985230.879523.5890@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hello Pals
There is this concept that I don't understand. Its all about
generating power (AC of course)from from a group of batteriers and
tapping some of the output to charge the batteries-- so it becomes a
cycle. Infact I have challenged this concept until I head it in the
news that someone has developed one in Ghana and he is actually using
it to power his house and a car. My simple college physics tells me
that this will not be possible since no machine or device is 100%
efficient. Can someone brief me on this or show me where I can get more
info on this topic.
Click to expand...
Look for "free power" - often sold in 'Jesus' magazines.

http://freeenergynews.com

N
 
In article <1119985230.879523.5890@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
fynnashba@yahoo.com <fynnashba@yahoo.com> wrote:
There is this concept that I don't understand. Its all about
generating power (AC of course)from from a group of batteriers and
tapping some of the output to charge the batteries-- so it becomes a
cycle. Infact I have challenged this concept until I head it in the
news that someone has developed one in Ghana and he is actually using
it to power his house and a car. My simple college physics tells me
that this will not be possible since no machine or device is 100%
efficient.
Click to expand...
And converting AC to DC to charge batteries and then back again to AC is
going to be *very* much less than 100% efficient.

Snake oil springs to mind.

--
*Do paediatricians play miniature golf on Wednesdays?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Commodore 1084s ?

"Alex W. Jackson" <awj_in_japan@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1119974781.179293.114970@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
| Recently, my 1084S monitor which has served me faithfully for some time
| quit abruptly while I was using it. The picture and sound are now
| completely defunct, and the monitor makes a high-pitched whining sound
| when the power is turned on. Can anyone suggest what part of the
| monitor may have failed, and is it likely to be repairable?
|
 
Alex W. Jackson wrote:
Recently, my 1084S monitor which has served me faithfully for some
time quit abruptly while I was using it.
Click to expand...
A high pitched whine from a switching mode power supply usually means
overload or short circuit somewhere, usually shorted horizontal output
transistor.

Here you go. Have fun!
http://www.devili.iki.fi/Computers/Commodore/C1084S/schematics/
 
In message <1119938446.446717.307410@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

... I thought that there might be an affordable timer that would somehow
keep it's accuracy by via 60Hertz AC. But I guess not.
Click to expand...
As has been mentioned repeatedly in this thread, the short-term accuracy
of power-system frequencies is several (many?) orders of magnitude worse
than your stated requirement (they 'run slow' at times of high demand,
but are carefully made to 'catch up' at other times so that domestic
clocks, etc., don't develop cumulative gross errors).

Your confidence that the videogame's(!) registers 'will have undergone
1,296,000 increments over the course of 6 hours' is certain to be
similarly misplaced, though if crystal-controlled perhaps only to the
extent of a few hundred increments.

This, basically, is IMO why no-one can see the point of your
accuracy-requirement - you seem to believe that you need it to 'keep in
step' with a process that is proceeding at rate only approximately-known
but from which you can't derive any synchronising-information.

--
Peter Duck <pduck@zetnet.co.uk>
 
Also, probable one of the crts may be flashing over? Seen this a couple of
times flacking the h-out.
"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:kdb3c19474kcmf14a34s5re03s6u0tuqia@4ax.com...
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 07:35:18 -0400, "pippy"
plongstocking@buuifewf.net> wrote:

You should forget that TV. check around yardsales, moving
sales etc..... lots of times you`ll be amazed at the bargains one can
find.picked up 27`color TV panasonic with remote, and 20` inch TV with
remote for $40 bucks (both work great)at a moving sale. probly get 32` for
$75. seek and you shall find.

Ummm...you DO know that this is a 50" projection TV that he is
referring to, right?

Tom

"darren" <avitechelectronics@shaw-dot-ca.no-spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:11c15p7sia86md9@corp.supernews.com...
h- output shorting and blowing power supply transistors, and resistor
very common issue with that TV. price sounds about right.



"JANA" <jana@ca.inter.net> wrote in message
news:3ic51qFkmjhhU2@uni-berlin.de...
I have a strong feeling that the service man you bring the set to, is
going
to change the flyback. These commonly cause problems in these sets.

--

JANA
_____


stokesb@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1119885190.615560.76990@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hitachi model #50EX10B - Yes, I posted months ago about this same set.
Sorry, but I still need help. Keeps blowing horizontal outputs. Flyback
primary checked good. Seems like it blows right when the high voltage
is starting to come up. B+ voltage dead on accurate. I have checked
several caps for leakage and ESR, just about every diode, and can't
find a faulty component. Have removed the CRT boards in case of bad
tube, but don't get high voltage. Maybe protective shutdown with no
load? Anyhow, it blows them when everything is connected. Should I be
looking on the primary side circuit of the flyback, or could this be a
faulty load on one of the secondary's circuits? I am close to bringing
it to a shop and paying for repair or info on what's wrong. Last call
on this one. Thanks group.
Click to expand...
 
avitechelectronics@shaw-dot-ca.no-spam.invalid (darren) writes:

I would say unless he running a superconductor it is impossible
Click to expand...
Doesn't matter, impossible period.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
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