Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Lawrence]

I've got a '99 F150 that had that same problem. Being a tech myself I
popped the unit open and found an SMT device had "desoldered" itself from
the circuit board. I can't recall what the part number was or exactly where
the SMT was located on the board since it happened about 3 years ago but it
was very easy to find and resolder back on. A year ago or so I came across
somewhere on the web where someone posted the "step-by-step" on how to fix
the problem and that seemed to be exactly the same as what my unit was
doing. Seems the unit tends to run a wee bit on the warm and toasty side of
things so some of the solder joints might be a little weak.

Cheers,
Lawrence

 

[Jim Adney]

On 27 Jun 2005 10:09:50 -0700 Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

The problem is getting a timer.

You've said that you just want a timer that will run over a period of
six hours with 1/60 sec accuracy.

You've said that all you want is a simple clock display that reads out
seconds.

You've said that it needs to just start at an arbitrary start time and
count from there.

None of these goals is particularly hard, but to get that accuracy
you'll need to buy some sort of commercial clock with a time display
and mate it to a frequency source (which in this industry is also
commonly called a "clock", further confusing this question) that is
more accurate than such timers usually come with. Or, if you have real
money to spend you can buy something with a real frequency standard
(clock) inside which could be purchased with a digital clock display.
The price for something like this could be anything from $2500 to
$40,000. This whole range is much more accurate than you've asked for,
but it seems unlikely that anyone makes something that meets just your
minimum accuracy requirement.

The problem that I see is that you've not asked for any kind of
electronic input or output for the timer, which makes most of us
wonder how you expect to be able to use 1/60 sec accuracy while just
doing this by eye.

If you're planning to use electronic start and stop signals, then you
can get much better accuracy than 1/60 sec.

So this leaves us confused about what it is that you really want/need.
It's not that people here are trying to be difficult; it's that they
are trying to be helpful, but the specs of your request, taken as a
whole, just don't seem to make sense.

So if you explained a little more, without giving away any of your
secrets, then you will probably get the answer you're after.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[Richard H.]

Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

And I think it has already been established that the kind of accurate
timer I need doesn't exist(or no one here knows of one).

http://www.google.com/search?q=1%2F100+second+timer

#2 on the list...
http://www.meylan.com/1_100sec.html
12 models with 1/100 displays and up to 100 hours. Whether they're
really 99.99992%+ accurate is for you to determine.

Now, these were very easy to find. They meet your limited "simple"
specs. Seiko is a name brand in sports timing, and the printer model
has it all.

I'll politely assume that surely you searched Google first, found these,
and determined they were inadequate by merely looking at them. So, what
makes these unsuitable?

Richard

 

[Nomen Nescio]

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 01:19:49 GMT, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

When you say it does it on all 10 power levels, you are not seeing the
operation from the right viewpoint. You cannot control the output power of a
magnetron. It's either producing microwaves at full chat, or not at all. The
power setting is controlled by interupting the amount of time that the mag
is turned on for, so at 100% power, it's running all the time, at 50% power,
it's only running for half the time and so on.

This isn't quite true for all microwave ovens. Panasonic and several other
brands use "inverter technology"

"True Microwave Power Levels
Conventional microwave ovens operate on only one power level; the microwave
energy is either on or off. For example, when set at 60% power, a
conventional microwave cooks at full power 60% of the time, and remains
idle the rest of the time. This on/off delivery of cooking power can result
in cold spots and overcooked edges. Panasonic Inverter technology delivers
true low, medium and high power levels. This targeted "soft" penetration of
microwave energy into the center of your food helps prevent overcooking on
the edges and surfaces, and provides more even cooking compared to
conventional microwaves."

I have heard though that the inverter technology is more prone to failure
in the power supply.

 

[James Sweet]

"Lawrence" <lmcclaf@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:42C0A863.363A595D@sympatico.ca...

I've got a '99 F150 that had that same problem. Being a tech myself I
popped the unit open and found an SMT device had "desoldered" itself from
the circuit board. I can't recall what the part number was or exactly
where
the SMT was located on the board since it happened about 3 years ago but
it
was very easy to find and resolder back on. A year ago or so I came across
somewhere on the web where someone posted the "step-by-step" on how to fix
the problem and that seemed to be exactly the same as what my unit was
doing. Seems the unit tends to run a wee bit on the warm and toasty side
of
things so some of the solder joints might be a little weak.

Cheers,
Lawrence

Wow! If it's running *that* hot it wouldn't be a bad idea to glue a little
IC heatsink on it!

 

[JANA]

Fisher was manufactured by Sanyo. Parts and service manuals, if still
available for your unit should be able to be ordered from Sanyo parts
distributors.

The hand held remotes for most of the consumer electronics equipment is
considered a non serviceable unit. They normally do not sell the parts to
service it. I suspect this is also true for your type of unit.



--

JANA
_____


"pcjfx" <pcjfx@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1119928353.456150.86700@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I have a Fisher Mini component system (1991) mod CA-M44. The remote
stopped working, I have tested the remote and there is output but no
response on the unit, is there any suggestions or does anyone no where
I could get a schematic on this system.
Suggestions would be great the remote hasn't worked in years (since
almost before the internet) The actual unit still works great, it just
does not respond to the remote.

Thanks in advance
pcjfx

 

[JANA]

I have a strong feeling that the service man you bring the set to, is going
to change the flyback. These commonly cause problems in these sets.

--

JANA
_____


<stokesb@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1119885190.615560.76990@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hitachi model #50EX10B - Yes, I posted months ago about this same set.
Sorry, but I still need help. Keeps blowing horizontal outputs. Flyback
primary checked good. Seems like it blows right when the high voltage
is starting to come up. B+ voltage dead on accurate. I have checked
several caps for leakage and ESR, just about every diode, and can't
find a faulty component. Have removed the CRT boards in case of bad
tube, but don't get high voltage. Maybe protective shutdown with no
load? Anyhow, it blows them when everything is connected. Should I be
looking on the primary side circuit of the flyback, or could this be a
faulty load on one of the secondary's circuits? I am close to bringing
it to a shop and paying for repair or info on what's wrong. Last call
on this one. Thanks group.

 

[none]

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 01:11:49 -0400, "JANA" <jana@ca.inter.net> wrote:

Fisher was manufactured by Sanyo. Parts and service manuals, if still
available for your unit should be able to be ordered from Sanyo parts
distributors.

The hand held remotes for most of the consumer electronics equipment is
considered a non serviceable unit. They normally do not sell the parts to
service it. I suspect this is also true for your type of unit.

The OP might try herman electronics for parts and that remote, I've
had luck in the past with them.

http://www.hermanelectronics.com/default.asp

Also there are lots of aftermarket suppliers on the web for oem
remotes.
just google remotes.

 

[none]

On 27 Jun 2005 13:23:09 -0700, "spongehead" <hgoodale_msp@msn.com>
wrote:

Yeah it is a Techumseh but the float is metal and seems to be in good
working order. I am able to get a rebuld kit at Sears for about 15
bucks, includes gaskets and the fuel supply needle. That should get it
going hopefully.
Just you describing which wire link goes to which hole, I think I got
the jist of it.
Is there ever problems on the inside of the motor where the governor
control arm is? I just havnt worked on a motor like this, usually the
basic briggs stuff.
Thanks for all the info!

Nah, usually no problem. Though it does depend on the stupidity
quotient of the original owner.
And yeah your right, it's a metal float. My memory gets lousy at my
age plus I'd spent the last few days working on Briggs and honda
motors so plastic got stuck in my mind.
Techumseh's as of the past decade or so have gotten to be the most
reliable motors out there.
Don't get too over confident about those links, it's easy to get the
wire link on backwards and they do have to go on exactly right.
Like I said I can send you some vid caps or stills of just how they go
on if you need it.
You can make the flat intake gasket yourself with some fibre gasket
sheets and an exacto, the float bowl gasket usually lasts for a long
time.
The needle can be got solo at most small engine parts/lawnmower parts
shops.
A hint, Sears uses the same parts numbers as the oem's so you can use
the sears # at the lower cost parts houses.
There are tons of places online as well.
http://www.docsysllc.com/main.htm
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/carb_t.cfm
http://www.m-and-d.com/
http://www.westernauto1.com/engines/Tecumseh/tair.html
http://www.smallengines.cc/

Just a few.

seems to me the last time I actually bought a new needle I got it for
around 6 bucks with the seat o-ring seal included.

 

In sci.electronics.repair Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote:

None of these goals is particularly hard, but to get that accuracy
you'll need to buy some sort of commercial clock with a time display
and mate it to a frequency source (which in this industry is also
commonly called a "clock", further confusing this question) that is
more accurate than such timers usually come with. Or, if you have real
money to spend you can buy something with a real frequency standard
(clock) inside which could be purchased with a digital clock display.
The price for something like this could be anything from $2500 to
$40,000. This whole range is much more accurate than you've asked for,
but it seems unlikely that anyone makes something that meets just your
minimum accuracy requirement.

As said before, the power company has something almost up to that
standard, but that idea was probably also rejected in earlier
discussion here?

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

jango2 wrote:

I've been hunting high and low for that id data disc. I found some
posts mentioning a pioneer_service.nrg file available for download
from edonkey. So i installed e donkey started a torrent and got the
file...49.9 Mb. It's a winrar set of 39 folders. Click on it and it
initiates nero to burn an iso image. I tried burning it on a cd
because i don't have a dvd writer. Hasn't worked for me. I need to
know if this iso image is the id data disc i need. The winrar files
are called regfree520_720.nrg . Thats not the same thing as the data
id disc(ggv1179) is it ?. Anyway i'll give it another shot tomorow and
burn it on a dvd and will report results here.
Strange but i find the posts i've put here on other forums....?????

Pioneer customer service might send you an update disc for free. It's worth
a try, 800-421-1404.

Mark Z.

 

[pippy]

You should forget that TV. check around yardsales, moving
sales etc..... lots of times you`ll be amazed at the bargains one can
find.picked up 27`color TV panasonic with remote, and 20` inch TV with
remote for $40 bucks (both work great)at a moving sale. probly get 32` for
$75. seek and you shall find.
"darren" <avitechelectronics@shaw-dot-ca.no-spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:11c15p7sia86md9@corp.supernews.com...

h- output shorting and blowing power supply transistors, and resistor
very common issue with that TV. price sounds about right.

"JANA" <jana@ca.inter.net> wrote in message
news:3ic51qFkmjhhU2@uni-berlin.de...

I have a strong feeling that the service man you bring the set to, is
going
to change the flyback. These commonly cause problems in these sets.

--

JANA
_____


stokesb@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1119885190.615560.76990@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hitachi model #50EX10B - Yes, I posted months ago about this same set.
Sorry, but I still need help. Keeps blowing horizontal outputs. Flyback
primary checked good. Seems like it blows right when the high voltage
is starting to come up. B+ voltage dead on accurate. I have checked
several caps for leakage and ESR, just about every diode, and can't
find a faulty component. Have removed the CRT boards in case of bad
tube, but don't get high voltage. Maybe protective shutdown with no
load? Anyhow, it blows them when everything is connected. Should I be
looking on the primary side circuit of the flyback, or could this be a
faulty load on one of the secondary's circuits? I am close to bringing
it to a shop and paying for repair or info on what's wrong. Last call
on this one. Thanks group.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

pcjfx wrote:

I have a Fisher Mini component system (1991) mod CA-M44. The remote
stopped working, I have tested the remote and there is output but no
response on the unit, is there any suggestions or does anyone no where
I could get a schematic on this system.
Suggestions would be great the remote hasn't worked in years (since
almost before the internet) The actual unit still works great, it just
does not respond to the remote.

Thanks in advance
pcjfx

There is a possibility of bad solder connections at the main unit's remote
receiver.

Mark Z.

 

[Lawrence]

That's what I had thought too. It seems to run pretty hot mainly when using a CD
and having the volume cranked way up. In fact, after a while of doing that
(15-20 minutes) the CD will self-eject and the display will show "CD TOO HOT" or
some such thing. I have heard that the stereos were built with a little fan on
the back end of them a year or so after mine was made. After poking around
inside the radio I did notice that many of the solder joints looked like someone
might have stood in front of the radio and showed it that they had a soldering
iron in their hand and hoped that this would be sufficient to scare the
component into staying soldered to the circuit board. I think that QA person who
checked my radio might have been on a bathroom break when my radio went past his
station.

Cheers,
Lawrence

James Sweet wrote:

Wow! If it's running *that* hot it wouldn't be a bad idea to glue a little
IC heatsink on it!

 

[Lawrence]

How did you check out the remote? I usually use a video camera myself.
When you look at the remote you will see the LED flash when you press the
remote's buttons. A friend of mine once had a similar problem. He just
metered at the output of the remote and since he was getting an indication
there he said it was working. When I used my video camera and couldn't see
any flash I changed the LED. That fixed it right up.
You can get the schematic from Fisher/Sanyo. I have a Fisher CA-271
system. When I first bought it I called up the company and ordered the
schematics right from them. That was quite some time ago though so I'm not
sure what they might charge for schematics now. For starters I would just
scope the remote receiver circuit to ensure it isn't just a flakey solder
joint inside the main unit as another poster mentioned.

Cheers,
Lawrence

 

[Ian Stirling]

In sci.electronics.design Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
<snip>

Well, you have already hinted at it yourself.

What are the odds that a stand alone stopwatch will be anything close
to 1/60th of a second of the correct time at the 6 hour mark?


And we all know that 1/100th of a second on a hand held stopwatch is
nothing but a marketing gimic.

Google
GPS stopwatch
Job done.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"JBreits" <jbreits@yahoo.com> writes:

Thank you for all the replies. I should clarify a little I guess. I
have a one-year old that eats cooked veggies (only the small ones). I
usually cook up enough to last a week and we put them in the fridge.
When it comes time for her to eat we put a little in the microwave just
to warm them up. This could be ~20 Kernels of corn and ~20 peas and a
couple pieces of carrots. We don't usually heat up a whole bunch in
case she is feeling like being a picky eater that day.

In response to other messages, we do have slightly hard water, but I
see no sparking or anything when heating the tap water. The vegetables
are boiled in a non-stick pan. Could that be a problem? Other things
that I have cooked in the pan microwave fine.

Last night I tried putting a small bowl of water in with the food and
there was no sparking or fire or anything. So perhaps it really is
just the fact that there was a small amount of food.

Does that sound reasonable?

Absolutely.

It has nothing to do with hard water.

Probably, simply the fact that you have a very small amount of material
that absorbs the microwaves creating a very high field strength in that
area and that its dimensions are similar to a fraction of a wavelength
at 2.45 GHz.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Ken Weitzel]

JBreits wrote:

Thank you for all the replies. I should clarify a little I guess. I
have a one-year old that eats cooked veggies (only the small ones). I
usually cook up enough to last a week and we put them in the fridge.
When it comes time for her to eat we put a little in the microwave just
to warm them up. This could be ~20 Kernels of corn and ~20 peas and a
couple pieces of carrots. We don't usually heat up a whole bunch in
case she is feeling like being a picky eater that day.

<snip>

Hi...

May I offer a non-technical suggestion?

(I raised one of the world's most picky eaters)

How about doing up a reasonable helping of veggies - perhaps
a half cup or so - and then having some with her?
I found it helpful to join mine, each with our own plate,
and as each of us had a "bite" I'd comment on mine.
(smile, say "good", "ummm", "hurray" and so on.) Didn't take
long before we were sort of taking turns, and each praising
it)

And just another thought; with no disrespect intended.
She may enjoy it more if she had them not previously
cooked but rather micro'd from frozen. I'm old now,
but still use the frozen in a bag ones. A half cup
in a cereal bowl, add a tablespoon or two of water, then
zap on high for 90 seconds is just right. (Of course
I'd feel them first before offering them to a baby)

Take care.

Ken

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"spongehead" <hgoodale_msp@msn.com> writes:

Not bad, was able to find it for 11 bucks. If you want to send pic of
linkage, just add "msp" after the underscore.
I did notice the spring was all stretched out, not sure how important
that is or if I can get away with stretching it some more.

Probably:

http://www.angelfire.com/mb2/visitme/mower/tecumseh.html

The spring is probably fine, that's the way it is.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[sofie]

NO damage.... but if the cable signal is too strong the picture will just
get worse and the adjacent channels will start interfering with each other.
Boosting the signal to compensate for splits and long runs is obviously
warranted..... but it is a waste of time to boost a already proper signal
strength thinking you will get a better picture.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


<psistormyamato@cs.com> wrote in message
news:1119975490.069603.132260@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Is it possible to damage a television by using s coax signal amplifier
when one is not needed?
What is the tolerance of a television for recieveing an inconing signal?