Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Richard Henry]

"MOP CAP" <Pilgrim6nospam@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:250620051517510502%Pilgrim6nospam@mindspring.com...

Futher about taking from scrap bins. Back in the 30's there was a Co.
here in SF that made plumb bobs for K&E. They made them for free. All
K&E had to do was supply the brass. Their profit was in the turnings
and it was all set up in an orderly production basis. It was send back
to the brass supplier as guaranteed content.

A place where I used to work paid for the annual holiday party with money
from recycling the aluminum from hogged-out cases.

Until DCAS heard of it.

 

[Peter Duck]

In message <4d8072951fdave@davenoise.co.uk>
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

... would counting 2,592,000 AC zero crosses do the trick?

In the UK, the mains frequency might well average out at 50 Hz over 24
hours, but that's not the same as being absolutely accurate over any 6
hour period.

I've a radio-controlled clock and a nominally-50Hz-driven one in the
same room.
There's only any point in synchronising them early in the morning: that
way, they'll agree again every morning, i.e. the 50HZ is carefully kept
to be *on average* true, but by evening, especially in winter, the
difference can be as much as 20 seconds.

Can't see the US being any different.

Nor can I ...

--
Peter Duck <pduck@zetnet.co.uk>

 

[Catman]

What I threw that I kicked myself for was a Cibiko.

My wife is a bigger gadget freak than I am and she had insisted on
getting one when they came out. Since she didn't have anyone else
around with one she never got to use its primary feature (wireless chat)
and the rest of its game features were fairly lame so it soon ended up
in a box in the crap - er I mean craft - room.

We were sorting stuff in the room when we were getting ready to move and
decided to toss it. One month later there was an article in Servo
explaining how to use a Cibiko as a portable rs232 terminal interface
for debugging mobile robots.

ARRG!

Catman

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

TMT

 

[Ken Weitzel]

Ed wrote:

Hi, I don't know much about electronics, so I would like some help. I
have a bi-amp mini hifi, and I want to connect one decent set of normal
hifi speakers (ie with only one set of terminals per cabinet) to it
that will reproduce the whole tonal range. can I just run the wires for
the left bass and the left treble from my hifi onto the single set of
terminals on my left speaker and the same respectively for the right?
ie. can I join up the wires from the separated bi-amp signals so that I
effectively merge the signals again, and stick the joined up wires
straigt into non bi amped speakers without blowing anything up? are
there any issues of changing resistance when the signals from the bass
and the treble are connected in paralell in order to do this? Any help
would be much appreciated.

Hi Ed...

In my humble opinion you're almost certain to immediately
destroy the output stages of your amplifier.

Suggest you find another solution.

Take care.

Ken

 

[Gunner]

On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 05:31:57 GMT, Gunner <gunner@lightspeed.net>
wrote:

And by the good graces of Jerry M, who posts here, a scrapped pressure
washer that will be investigated in the morning to see if the pump is
good, then modified and reworked for here at the homestead.

The pump is good, though tired <G>

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

 

[James Sweet]

"Xiongnu" <xiongnu@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:1119767613.681596.203850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

the airbed/pump is a couple years old, and i used it for 3 times when i
went for camping trip. since i'm going for another camping trip next
week, i took it out and tried to get the gear ready. however i found
out it doesn't hold charge anymore even though i charged for a
significantly period of time.

i noticed inside the pump it has 5 white-colored batteries connected in
series, one of them marked with 'Propine 6V 1.6A 0201', i did a search
and found this online,

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=160200&item=NCB-SC&type=store,
might be just what i need, only problem is it will cost $20+ to buy a
5-pack, i could buy a cheap pump at walmart for less than $15.

Yes good batteries are expensive, just remember that a cheap pump from
walmart will probably fail in the same way in about the same amount of time.

 

[James Sweet]

"Xiongnu" <xiongnu@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:1119767613.681596.203850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

the airbed/pump is a couple years old, and i used it for 3 times when i
went for camping trip. since i'm going for another camping trip next
week, i took it out and tried to get the gear ready. however i found
out it doesn't hold charge anymore even though i charged for a
significantly period of time.

i noticed inside the pump it has 5 white-colored batteries connected in
series, one of them marked with 'Propine 6V 1.6A 0201', i did a search
and found this online,

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=160200&item=NCB-SC&type=store,
might be just what i need, only problem is it will cost $20+ to buy a
5-pack, i could buy a cheap pump at walmart for less than $15.

I should add that you could try a hobby store, 6 cell packs for R/C cars are
usually pretty cheap, you could take them apart to change the configuration
but your air pump would run fine on 7.2v.

 

[Bob Kaplow]

In article <RDnve.3349$Qo.1209@fed1read01>, "Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com> writes:

A place where I used to work paid for the annual holiday party with money
from recycling the aluminum from hogged-out cases.

Back in the 70s, the place I worked was the #1 recycler and user of recycled
paper products. They even designed the three arrow logo that is on all of
the recyclable goods you see today. So what did we do with all of our
computer printouts? We threw them away.

This was back in 80 column punch card days. That card stock is made from
virgin paper fibres, and is very valuable to recyclers. S one of our
operators would save all the card batches, collect a few months of them,
drive downtown, load up his car, and take it all to one of our recycling
centers. He too used the money for parties that he invited everyone inthe
office to.

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"

>>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf

www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/ www.nira-rocketry.org www.nar.org

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. --
Benjamin Franklin Historical Review of Pennsylvania. 1759

 

[Art]

Panasonic has a rebuild kit for the ballast assemblies, if that fails then
you can call Panasonic for authorization for a new ballast assembly.
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:uSNue.4622$fw1.2605@trnddc02...

"jango2" <crow_slapper@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119423645.243186.287070@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
My 5th day working on this Panasonic PT-L735E projector. I'm beginning
to feel worthless and like such a loser.
When i first got the unit it would power up but the lamp wouldnt turn
on. It would time out in 5 minutes and report a red l.e.d. "lamp"
circuit failure.
I bought the service manual,found 2 diodes next to one of four IGBTs to
be short. D9607 (MA3X158 Switching diode) in the base emitter circuit
of a driver transistor (which was also short) firing the IGBT(Q9608),
and D9608 (MA3X720 Schottky barrier diode)reverse biased across the
base emitter of the IGBT .
Replaced all 3 with equivalents, now the unit power's up, lamp turns on
for 6 seconds and then the unit shuts down. The service manual doesnt
have a schematic for the Q module which has a microcontroller on board
which counts hours and stuff related to ballast firing, switching lamp
mode from low to high and regulation.
Wish i could post a screen shot of the afflicted section here , doesnt
seem possible.
Any ballast experts out there to gve me some tips? The IGBT's seem ok.
Checking passive components in the peripheral area too but everything
checks out fine.
What's the role of the schottky diode here?
The circuit has 2 pairs of igbts (n channel) in series, firing the
igniter transformer which lies in between the collecor emitter
junctions (centre rails).
The igbt pairs are driven by two ic's described as "half bridge driver
master and half bridge driver slave".
The heat sink on the igbt seems to be getting rather hot.
This occupation gets increasingly difficult day by day .


Well you're making progress, in my experience with electronics in general
there's a good chance whatever problem is left is something small, simple,
and rather obscure.

 

[Mark Fergerson]

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

Pretty much anything, for suitable values of "project". IOW it
depends what you like to build.

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

That pile of lumber. I don't have a fireplace any more...

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

An assortment of synthetic laser crystal castoffs (impurity
levels off just enough to make them useless for that application,
but still pretty).

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

I just acquired an old electric wheelchair (for free!); I plan to
adapt the snazzy magnesium wheels to a bicycle. The controller box
is a joke, full of paralleled transistors and humongous relays.

Mark L. Fergerson

 

[none]

On 25 Jun 2005 10:02:11 -0700, "spongehead" <hgoodale_msp@msn.com>
wrote:

I picked up this Sears model 917.387440 6.25hp push lawnmower at a yard
sale for 5 bucks and someone had attempted to do some carb work on it
which failed miserably by looking at it. The gas line is cracked and
the jet needle was missing. Easy enough to get those parts at the
local Sears place. However, I cant really tell how the carb levers and
springs go into place, maybe Im missing another part but hard to tell.
I was hoping someone might have access to or know where I can get a
real picture of how it looks put together.
Sears engine model is 143.006200

It's most likely a Techumseh engine on it correct?
Is it set up for throttle free runningor does the mower have a
throttle control?
I repair these things all the time and can set you on the correct
course to having that mower running in short order.
The gas line is 1/4 inch, just go down to a auto parts store and buy a
foot of it and cut to length.
There is no jet needle, I'm assuming you're talking about the fuel
supply needle that goes on the float?
You'll have to purchase that as part of a float kit if you go through
sears. It can be had separately at most lawnmower supply shops.(You
should get a seal o-ring as part of the packet as well. It's the
o-ring that goes up in the needle well. white rubber about 1-2 mm's in
dia.)
The float will be plastic and 90% of the time is fine. Check to see
if it has leaks to be on the safe side, or you'll get gas flooding
problems.(tie a weight on it and submerge in water if you get bubbles
it will need replacing as well. once removed from the water take a
look at it as see if it's got any water inside, just give it a shake.)
The govenor spring and link are easy. On the side of the engine casing
you'll see the governor control arm(shiny metal with two holes in the
top end.), the top hole is for the bent angled wire control link. It
goes to the back hole on the carbuerator butterfly, under the govenor
assembley plate. The spring with the short straigt wire link will go
to the lower hole and to the throttle control arm that sticks out from
the throttle plate assembley.
The diagrahms on the sears site won't be detailed enough for you to
see this. I'll either have to talk you through or send you some
scans/vidcaps.
Talk to me if you can't find someone locally and I'll snap those pics
for you monday.(I have several Techumseh's engines in shop)

 

[Richard H.]

Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

1/60th of a second is important because it is specific to that hardware
and how it functions. It uses registers that change every 1/60th of a
second to make certain occurances "random". If one could react with an
accuracy of 1/60th of a second, then these occurances would follow a
predictable pattern. But of course that kind of timing is not humanly
possible with any kind of consistency.

Anyway, to simplify what I'm doing, this involves a huge number of
timed inputs(by a person) over the course of several hours. The timer
will be the reference.

If it is easier for me to get a set-up that involves frequent
resets/corrections to get the needed accuracy at any 60th of a second
over the course of several hours, then that is what I'll have to do.

P.S: The hardware itself is a videogame.

This strikes me as a very different definition of the problem from your
original post...

If your goal is to have an event 60 times per second with good accuracy,
that is trivial with most microcontrollers. Even a basic design could
get you 100,000 events per second with good accuracy.

But what you described in your original post was a requirement to finish
after 6 hours with a clock drift of no more than 1/60 second. That
problem is 21,600 times harder, and requires elaborate solutions.

i.e., it sounds like your requirement is for a timer that can:
a) trigger 60 times per second with "good" accuracy
b) count for 6 hours or more

In defining "good" accuracy, 1% equates to +/- 0.00017 secs margin per
60/sec event (between 0.01649 and 0.01683 seconds per event). These
timings aren't likely to vary much on one board (barring temerature
changes), but would vary in this range from one board to the next.

So, what degree of accuracy are you really needing?

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Barry Lennox]

On 24 Jun 2005 13:01:09 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
<too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote:

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

I used to collect "good stuff" like power transformers, meters, pots,
switches, heatsinks, power transistors, big caps, etc, but the boxes
are getting bigger and bigger and I use so little of it (sob!) that I
now have to be a little selective and ruthless. However, I always grab
fuses if they are easy to get at.

Household crap is barely worth fighting with the covers to get the
innards out these days, however, commercial, industrial, medical and
military stuff is worth spending the time on. Also I highly recommend
photocopiers, full of motors, optical bits, power supplies, switches,
and other interesting bits.

And I still find unlimited uses for Magnetron magnets ex microwaves,
so while I'm in there, I grab the many microswitches, thermal
switches, power transformer on the control board, and HV parts. I can
strip one of these in about 5 minutes now. Dunno quite what for, but
I'm sure they will be useful one day.

I went through a phase of collecting the boards from disposable
cameras, they have a few interesting bits on them, but what can one do
with more than 50?

Of course, you need a big barn to keep all this crap in.

Barry Lennox

 

[NSM]

"Xiongnu" <xiongnu@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:1119767613.681596.203850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

only problem is it will cost $20+ to buy a
5-pack, i could buy a cheap pump at walmart for less than $15.

Wal-Mart. Why not?

N

 

[NSM]

"Raventy" <ano316gamer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1119800416.309158.33560@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Kal- How do I tell if it has its own filter/crossover?

N- What is Dual Coil?

A dual coil subwoofer has four speaker terminals, two left, two right.

N

 

[Mike Monett]

Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

[...]

So, what degree of accuracy are you really needing?

1/60th of a second...

(ie: When the 2 hour, 53 minute, and 37 second point is reached, the
display should show it at exactly that time at an accuracy of 1/60th of
a second from when the clock started running).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

You have no idea what your requirements mean. A drift of 1ppm in 6 hrs is
meaningless in a marathon or other race, when the wind can easily cause
1% change in performance.

So in Brooklanese -Fahgettaboutit!

Mike Monett

 

[Jamie]

Ricky Eck wrote:

Greetings to all, once again.
Well, have an interesting problem. Got a RCA 27V530T here at the
house, and I having problems with it. Though I would throw the symptoms up
here, and see if any of you may know what the problem is. There has been a
progression of problems, but I will try to describe them the best I can.
First of all the TV is just out of the part warrantee (1 year old).

Ok, here is my setup in a nut shell. I have the PS2 on the front Video
Input. The DVD is plugged into the Component Video (Y, Pb, Pr), the Sat.
dish is plugged into the S-Video, and the VCR is running into the 300 Ohm
Coax (The 300 Ohm from he Dish is also running into the VCR, so we can
record if we wish)

Now, about 3 months ago, we noticed that when we switched the inputs (Like
from S-video to Front AV jacks, with the remote. Not actually pulling the
cables), we would get a screen that was kinda like a scrambled movie on
cable TV. We used to just turn it off, and back on, and it would come on
perfect, till we switched it to another input, where once again, we turned
the TV off. But as it progressed, it took longer for it to "Clear Up".
Otherwise we would have to turn the TV off longer. Then about two or three
weeks ago, I was home on vacation, and watching TV, and the screen went
black and white. Crisp clean picture but black and white. I thought it was
the Sat. But it was working good on other TVs here in the house. Now,
since then the TV will turn black and white a lot during the day. And the
only way to clear it up is to turn it off for a while and then turn it back
on. Here is the think that is stumping me. If we watch the Sat on Ch. 3
(300 ohm), it can go HOURS before it turns black and white. But then when
we turn it back on, it is all scrambled. We have to turn the TV off for 1/2
hour or more. Sometimes we try to experiment and unplug it. But the funny
thing is, if we are running the PS2 Or DVD or Sat on S-Video, it may last an
hour maybe two. Here is an example of the past two days. Today, I had the
TV on from about 12:00 pm to about 5 PM and it finally turned black and
white (During the race of all things). But last night playing my PS2, the
TV went black and white in 20 minutes from turning the TV on.

So with that all said, any Ideas? I am thinking a Cold Joint, but not sure,
figure I would throw this out there, and see, before opening it up. If it
was still under warrantee I would just take it back. But it isn't, so here
I am.

Well, thanks in advance,

Rick
Remove "2" to email back



i would start by checking Relays and solder joints.

--
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

 

[Mike Monett]

Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

[...]

I've been trying not to get into the details, because details lead to
the request for more details, and this is just way to complex to get
into here. Not just as far as what I'm doing, but the timer I am
seeking is actually inadequate for all of the experiments I want to do.

Now if this is so difficult to understand, then the more complex timer
will be near impossible to explain.

I think you just lost the interest of anyone capable of helping you.

For this project there will be 1,296,000 increments over the course of
6 hours. I just need the option of *visually* seeing on the timer's
display when each second increments beginning with the press of a start
button, and the accuracy must be 1/60th of a second at worst for any of
those 21,600 seconds after zero.(I'm assuming that the timer will have
to be plugged in an AC outlet).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

The truth you seek is out there. Have fun

Mike Monett

 

[quietguy]

Actually, since your application is only a video game, then perhaps it is
not accuracy that you need - rather precision, which is a very different
concept to accuracy.

Have a think about it and perhaps that will simplify your problem

David

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[Kalman Rubinson]

On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:35:23 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

"Raventy" <ano316gamer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1119800416.309158.33560@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Kal- How do I tell if it has its own filter/crossover?

You look for it or for printing on the outside which indicates it.
If you do not know what/how, find a local who does.

Kal