Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Pat Flannery" <flanner@daktel.com> wrote in message
news:119f3uekhf621d2@corp.supernews.com...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

I, and many other LDS (Mormons) receive personal revelation.



Was that back when you were part of the Free Speech Movement at
Berkeley? ;-)
That's when they did a little too much Berkely at LDS.


> Admiral Kirk
 
"Pat Flannery" <flanner@daktel.com> wrote in message
news:119f3m8j2id9214@corp.supernews.com...
Scott Hedrick wrote:

"André Keshave" <andre_dumarc@hotmayle.com> wrote in message
news:42972081$1_3@news.bluewin.ch...


But God cannot speak directly to us



Why not? He once did- after all, before Eve, how could he speak to Adam?



He also shot the breeze with Cain, Noah, Abraham, Moses, and several
prophets IIRC.
If you throw communication via angels into the mix, the list gets longer.
Still, "Dogma" is a pretty inspiring film.
 
On Fri, 27 May 2005, "Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61-#spamblock*-@hotmail.com> wrote:

I, and many other LDS (Mormons) receive personal revelation.
What form do these revelations take?

How do you know they are revelations rather than delusions?

And if they are revelations, how do you know where they're coming from?

--
Bobby Bryant
Austin, Texas
 
On Wed, 25 May 2005 21:09:56 -0500, "jakdedert"
<jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

none wrote:


Just a thought but if you want to make that scooter fly try finding a
Honda or Toyo horizontal shaft motor.
You can usually get them off pressure washers with bad pumps as those
motors can't be killed short of running them with NO oil and they are
usually high horse powered, 7 to 12.
These motors have high spin and good torque and can get that bike up
to 50mph.( I'd done that for so local yahoo a couple years back for
his camp mini-bike. Saw him last month and he had a pronounced limp so
I guess he got all the speed he wanted.)

You must've missed the part about the sixties. That kart is long gone, now.
I think it crashed when we were pulling it with a horse. Riders (both the
one on the horse, and--thankfully--the one on the cart as well) got off for
refreshments, and the horse decided to make an unscheduled run. I believe a
fence post did it in...stopped the horse, though.

Kids. Somehow I wonder how we survived.....

jak

Hey you think that's crazy.
When we were youngsters we hijacked my older sister's roller skates
cut off the boots and used them to "body skate".
Simply sit on the skate, then lie flat out with your feet supsended
straight out in front of you (inches above the ground) and head off
down that big hill.
What made it dangerous for us was that big hill was a street with
several stop signs along the way.
Sure made alot of cross traffic stop and do a double take, to see a
kid sailing down the hill on his ass at about 30 miles an hour.
Of course the bottom of the hill took a sharp right turn AND had a
telephone pole on the corner.(made for lots of scrapes and bruises)
 
On Wed, 25 May 2005 17:16:20 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

"none" <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
news:kvb8915vbnc3gdvhe1p5svbnop2ie0epab@4ax.com...

They quit selling them somewhere around the late 40's, early 50's.
Many were still using them for some time after.
My father was an electrical engineer and we had them well into the
60's.

I remember seeing something similar but they were the old Edison nickel-iron
batteries, used to start emergency generators. They had high self discharge
rates.

They kinda looked like an aquarium with a bolt on top, Which was made
out of something like bakelite.
You'd buy new plates and electrolyte unbolt the case and swap them
out.
The reason they discontinued their use in autos was for safety reasons
of course. One good smash up and you had acid soaked glass shards
flying around.

I never heard of them being used in autos although IIRC Edison wanted to use
them for an electric auto.

N

That was mostly in the day's of the model A's and T's.(I grew up on a
fam and we still had a working T in the shed, that's where I remember
seeing them first.
Later my father, and electrical engineer, who worked in industrial
power service had some of them that were indeed used for backup power.
 
On Wed, 25 May 2005 14:34:54 +0000 (UTC), "Ron(UK)"
<ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:

Jim Yanik wrote:
Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in
news:m6n7919sdv12bont965m6ku4f1ugtqeu14@4ax.com:


On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500 none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:


I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

I'm afraid I'm not old enough to have ever seen one of those. When
were they used?



Gee,who wants to mess around with sulfuric acid and lead paste?


It`s only a few years ago when I worked in an entertainment venue where
all the emergency lighting was powered by huge glass lead acids, each
about 12" high and wide. there was probably 30 or so cells all connected
together by exposed lead bars bolted to the terminals, you had to watch
where you layed down anything conducting like a spanner!. The charger
was in a filing cabinet sized enclosure with a huge transformer,
selenium plate rectifiers and wobbly meters on the front ;o)

Ron

www.lunevalleyaudio.com
Know what you mean. My father who was and electrical engineer started
his career out as an electrician's mate in the Navy on electric
boats.(submarines) where the entire bottom side of the boat was a long
in-series battery array.
He had some real stories to tell, what with all that hydrogen sulfide
floating around in the crawl space.
 
On 25 May 2005 13:56:40 GMT, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote:

Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in
news:m6n7919sdv12bont965m6ku4f1ugtqeu14@4ax.com:

On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500 none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

I'm afraid I'm not old enough to have ever seen one of those. When
were they used?


Gee,who wants to mess around with sulfuric acid and lead paste?
Well... there is the issue of the high cost of having to routinely
swap out dead batteries, not to mention the high cost.
( The actually cost to manufacture a battery is a small fraction of
what we have to pay retail for them.)
Replating a serviceable battery is much more cost effective and allows
for a greater degree of self-sufficiency.
 
On Wed, 25 May 2005 08:42:10 GMT, Ross Herbert
<rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote:

On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500, none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:



I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

And before the glass case came the lead-lined wooden box cells. Both
wood and glass boxes were still in use in telephone exchanges I worked
at during the late 1950's but they were all gone by the early 60's. I
even installed some of the wooden cased cells (made up from parts
which had been kept in storage for 20 years or more) because there was
a shortge in supply of the new polycarbonate cell types.

Changing plates in these old cells was not so simple and it was never
done where I was. You would simply re-build the complete cell with all
new plates. The interconnects between plates were lead-burned in place
- which was an art in itself - and it was next to impossible to
simply cut one plate out for replacement.
When I watched my old man rebuild them he always replaced all the
plates. Seemed pretty straight forward, unbolt the box cap then the
retaining bolts for the plates and pull them out.
Dump the electrolite, flush case with a neutralizer, put in new plates
and acid and bolt it all back together.(Of course these units were
designed for ease of service)
I did years back restore an old German motorcycle, prewar, called a
Fluka and it had a glass case battery which we had to have custom
plates made for.
 
Greg D. Moore (Strider) wrote:

I, and many other LDS (Mormons) receive personal revelation.




Was that back when you were part of the Free Speech Movement at
Berkeley? ;-)




That's when they did a little too much Berkely at LDS.
Dig the groove, man!

Pat
 
Scott Hedrick wrote:

He also shot the breeze with Cain, Noah, Abraham, Moses, and several
prophets IIRC.
If you throw communication via angels into the mix, the list gets longer.




Still, "Dogma" is a pretty inspiring film.
You'd have to be raised Roman Catholic, like I was, to thoroughly enjoy
it; but I'm still trying to decide if George Burns or Alanis Morissette
made the better God.
I dearly loved both their portrayals of the Big Number One.
The most subtly scary version of God is the one that shows up in "The
Green Man"; you don't treat that one lightly at all:
"Oh, I can make things most unpleasant for those who don't see things my
way...ever read the book of Job?" =-O

Pat
 
<disco_boy@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:1117258552.479304.157930@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
I have a circuit board from a car stereo amplifier. My vehicle uses an
amp for each speaker, and this particular amp is well known for having
electrolytic capacitors that go bad. I would like to replace the
capacitors, but the caps in the middle of the board, and the adjacent
inductors were partly covered with an amber colored transparent,
slightly soft potting. I was able to remove enough of it without doing
any damage (except to a couple of the capacitors I will be replacing)
but I'd like to have an idea of what to replace the potting with.

The amp board itself gets enclosed in a shield that acts as a heat sink
for the transistors, which are not near the potting, and the entire
shielded amp goes in a sealed enclosure that also contains the speaker.
So it's pretty isolated from outside environmental factors, and I don't
know enough about this to know what effect the potting has on thermal
issues or anything else, or even why it's needed. It seemed to have
been applied somewhat haphazardly, covering the inductors about half
way each, and burying some of the capacitors part way, and filling some
of the space between them.

Is there some general explanation of why potting would typically be
used here and what I should look for?
You'll find that amber adhesive on a great deal of car audio gear. It's
used to prevent vibration. With sufficient amount of vibration (over time
or even a one-time severe jarring), electrolytic caps can develop internal
intermittent faults -- where the leads are welded, for example. That's why
you'll see the stuff underneath caps. Smaller inductors are secured so
vibration won't cause the body to bend over to one side -- this isn't as
much of a concern with inductors that use very large gauge wire, as the wire
itself is strong enough to keep them in place. With the really large
components, however, cold/intermittent solder joints can result from
vibration, simply because of their mass.

If the factory application looks haphazard, well, it is. They have to get
it done in a jiffy and since it isn't conductive, they just plop it in there
where it's needed and if it runs between components, so much the better, as
that means even less chance of vibration moving things around.

As for replacing the factory compound, hot melt glue (hi-temp not low-temp)
is an acceptable substitute. You can get various colors, including amber,
and even different textures -- some are "waxier" than others, some cure
harder than others, etc.
You must make absolutely certain the pc board is CLEAN prior to applying hot
melt glue. Scrub the area in question with alcohol first (91% is best). Or
use one of the electronics cleaner sprays (the kind that leaves NO LUBE
FILM, obviously). The surface of pc boards is generally smooth to begin
with. It won't be if you bother scraping the factory glue off. Hot melt
glue has a hard enough time lying down into tiny score marks, and it won't
adhere well, if at all, where there's a film of dirt present.
Remember, the idea is to stop vibration. If your glue is not secured to the
board, it's probably still secured to (or hugging) the components, which
means it is only adding mass to the components it's supposed to be holding
down. Now the whole shebang is moving around (though probably not visible
w/o help from a finger and maybe a magnifier) and that's just begging for
trouble. Just try to get the factory stuff off a board and you'll see how
well it has adhered to it -- that's what you want.

You could try to get your hands on the real factory compound, but if it's
like other assembly-line chemicals I've looked into, you likely won't want
to pay their asking price for it. Aside from hot melt glue, there may be
other consumer adhesives on the market which may work. You don't want
something that cures rock hard like epoxy, as you may have to remove it for
future repairs. Rubber silicone caulk might work, but it's... rubbery...
and therefore does allow some movement. Also, you want something that won't
crack with age or heat.

Good luck,
Ray
 
"Pat Flannery" <flanner@daktel.com> wrote in message
news:119g77rgic19v9d@corp.supernews.com...

You'd have to be raised Roman Catholic, like I was, to thoroughly enjoy
it; but I'm still trying to decide if George Burns or Alanis Morissette
made the better God.
I dearly loved both their portrayals of the Big Number One.
The most subtly scary version of God is the one that shows up in "The
Green Man"; you don't treat that one lightly at all:
"Oh, I can make things most unpleasant for those who don't see things my
way...ever read the book of Job?" =-O
What about the Simpson's?

Ned Flanders: "I'm dying! ..and there's Heaven! Who's that? Confucius! ..and
Milton Berle! Boy have I been barking up the wrong tree!"

N
 
On 27 May 2005 01:18:10 -0700 "larry moe 'n curly"
<larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote:

Backup supply plugged into AC outlet;

hot-neutral: 120 VAC
hot-ground: 120 VAC
neutral-ground: 0.7 VAC
Backup is line powered and is just passing thru the relationship that
your AC line has.

Backup supply unplugged from AC outlet, computer used as load:

hot-neutral: 115 VAC
hot-ground: 58 VAC
neutral-ground: 58 VAC
As someone else said, ground is floating and the load leakages are
pretty nicely balanced, and lower impedance than your Fluke.

Backup supply unplugged form AC outlet, no load:

hot-neutral: 115 VAC
hot-ground: 19 VAC
neutral-ground: 60 VAC
Here the output is completely floating, but you can see that the
leakages in the backup are not particularly balanced. The 10 MOhm
impedance of the Fluke is significant here; it has pulled each one
down a bit so that the last 2 numbers no longer add up to the first.
If you had a second Fluke so that you could actually make those 2
measurements simultaneously, you would get numbers that add up right.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
Bobby D. Bryant wrote:

And if they are revelations, how do you know where they're coming from?
(Cut to scene of Emperor Ming and General Klytus in the Delusion
Projector Ray control room.)
"Most effective, your Majesty!"
Suddenly, Hot Hail starts falling on Salt Lake City.
This is followed by an infestation of White Salamanders. ;-)

Pat
 
NSM wrote:

What about the Simpson's?

Ned Flanders: "I'm dying! ..and there's Heaven! Who's that? Confucius! ..and
Milton Berle! Boy have I been barking up the wrong tree!"
I still like the idea of Strom Thurmond showing up in the heaven from
the movie "The Green Pastures". ;-)

Pat
 
This is a followup to my search for a Horiz. Output Transistor for an Apex
TV. I followed the recommendation of substuting a 2SC5150 in place of the
seemingly unavailable 'D2120'. This suggestion is good advice as the set is
now working fine.

Thanks to all who responded to my original post. Your help is greatly
appreciated.
 
On 27 May 2005 01:18:10 -0700, "larry moe 'n curly"
<larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

I have a Conext (by APC) model CNB-325 battery backup power supply (not
a real UPS) that shows funny voltages when the power cord is
disconnected.

Backup supply unplugged from AC outlet, computer used as load:

hot-neutral: 115 VAC
hot-ground: 58 VAC
neutral-ground: 58 VAC
The PC PSU has RF suppression (?) capacitors between A-E and N-E. If
the earth pin is disconnected, then its potential floats to a point
midway between A and N.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
 
"Pat Flannery" <flanner@daktel.com> wrote in message
news:119g77rgic19v9d@corp.supernews.com...
I'm still trying to decide if George Burns or Alanis Morissette
made the better God.
I like them both, and they're not all that incompatible.
 
On Sat, 28 May 2005 01:46:23 -0500, none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

On Wed, 25 May 2005 08:42:10 GMT, Ross Herbert
rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote:

On Tue, 24 May 2005 00:34:18 -0500, none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:



I miss the days when you could buy a battery that was serviceable.
A heavy glass plate case with bolt on top and removable plates.
They would last forever as long as one was willing to do a bit of
service work.

And before the glass case came the lead-lined wooden box cells. Both
wood and glass boxes were still in use in telephone exchanges I worked
at during the late 1950's but they were all gone by the early 60's. I
even installed some of the wooden cased cells (made up from parts
which had been kept in storage for 20 years or more) because there was
a shortge in supply of the new polycarbonate cell types.

Changing plates in these old cells was not so simple and it was never
done where I was. You would simply re-build the complete cell with all
new plates. The interconnects between plates were lead-burned in place
- which was an art in itself - and it was next to impossible to
simply cut one plate out for replacement.

When I watched my old man rebuild them he always replaced all the
plates. Seemed pretty straight forward, unbolt the box cap then the
retaining bolts for the plates and pull them out.
Dump the electrolite, flush case with a neutralizer, put in new plates
and acid and bolt it all back together.(Of course these units were
designed for ease of service)
I did years back restore an old German motorcycle, prewar, called a
Fluka and it had a glass case battery which we had to have custom
plates made for.
"Boltable" plates would be useless where very high current demands
were present, as in telephone exchanges. While each individual battery
was designed to connect to the adjacent cells in a series battery
using bolts, this practice was shown to cause major problems due to
the bolted joint developing high resistance. Consequently, both the
individual plates in each cell were lead-burned together as well as
the connections between cells in order to minimise any added
resistance. The end connections to the copper distribution bus-bars
were the only place bolts were found and these were constantly checked
for temperature rise or signs of oxidation.

I was once working in an exchange in the late 1950's where bolted
battery joints were still in existence and accidentally dropped a 12"
crescent spanner right across the bus-bars feeding several suites of
equipment. There was a mighty loud bang as the spanner was melted and
every switch dropped out in the affected suites. In the time taken for
the 500A feeder fuse to blow every bolted joint in the 48V duty
battery had molten lead blown out of it due to the heat generated in
the minute resistance in each joint. The battery room was filled with
smoke and I was not very popular with the maintenance staff. Needless
to say, after that episode, the battery interconnection joints were
lead-burned.

If we take an extreme case where each bolted joint has only 1
milli-ohm resistance (this is a "very high" resistance in this
environment) then a 48V battery of 24 x 2V cells would have roughly 48
milliohms total resistance in the bolted joints. In heavy traffic a
current draw of 500A would drop 24V across the joints alone which
would stop the exchange from working. Any resistance at all in the
battery would also lead to cross-talk between circuits since the
battery is common to all circuits.

Typically, the internal resistance of a 48V exchange battery including
all joints between cells would have a design volt drop of 100mV at
maximum current drain. For a design goal of 1000A maximum drain this
would equate to a total internal resistance in the battery and all
connections of 0.1 milli-ohms, and that is hard to achieve in
practice.
 
Bob,

One thing that I've figured out is that many times the "2S" is left off the
device number. Of course, other times something else might belong there...

Kirk S.
"Bob Kos" <see@text.for.eddress> wrote in message
news:%77me.1515$s64.966@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
This is a followup to my search for a Horiz. Output Transistor for an Apex
TV. I followed the recommendation of substuting a 2SC5150 in place of the
seemingly unavailable 'D2120'. This suggestion is good advice as the set
is
now working fine.

Thanks to all who responded to my original post. Your help is greatly
appreciated.
 

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