Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Yes, but the mere fact that the laser "lights up" in no way tells if that
pickup is good or bad. Would that it were so.

Mark Z.


"Bradley26" <someone@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:v_Dbd.12$mP3.5@trnddc08...

You all may know this, but I found that a video camera, like the small PC
camera can see the laser beam very well, when the laser appears off by
eye.


"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:2t1nbsF1pflgtU1@uni-berlin.de...

"Rich" <rkoziol_no**s+pam@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:9pAad.111410$He1.86498@attbi_s01...

"Ken G." <goodguyy@webtv.net> wrote in

I work on alot of new DVD players ( store returns ) of all kinds and
maybe 1% work after a lens cleaning .

Having so many on hand i try switching lazor assemblies and that
normaly
fixes the problem .. other times its the driver board

Sounds like contacts on the laser assy plug get some film on them.
Switching them around just rubs off the oxide.

I have never removed the laser assy (not a tech), but don't you have
to align them in any way? I'd be tempted to just pull it out and put
it back in, if that's possible. I'm the OP in this thread.

Regards,

Rich


If one is just swapping, then normally you'd swap the entire, pre-aligned
mech. Additionally, some newer DVD player have all or mostly software
adjustments, even auto-adjustments.

Mark Z.

 

[Terry Patterson]

I fixed it.... replaced a bad cap near IC501... C534 a 47uF/50V, I replaced
it with a 220uF/50V (all I had).
Terry

"Terry Patterson" <terryep@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
news:HrDad.146563$Np3.6313105@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...

My Sony KV-20TS30 TV is not scanning all the way to the top of the
screen.
It seems to reverse (see pic). Anyone see a problem like this before?
Where
should I look for the problem? I have the manual I got to fix the last
problem I had several years ago. Any help would be appreciated.
Terry

 

[Lionel]

Kibo informs me that Franklin <no_thanks@mail.com> stated that:

What rating PSU should I use on a system which has an Athlon 2400+
with a modest graphics card (old GeForce2 MX 32MB) and 768 MB of SD-
RAM. Unusually, it will have *SIX* IDE internal hard drives.

All the rest of the system is pretty normal with no overclocking on
the cpu.

Would a decent 350W PSU be enough? I am thinking of this Nexus PSU.
http://www.nexustek.nl/nx3500.htm The specification chart shows
current delivery at min load, normal load, max load:

+3.3V 0.3A 14.0A 21.2/28A
+5V 1.0A 12.7A 30/25.5A
+12V 0.2A 4.5A 16A

The correct way to calculate this is to look up the maximum power
consumption spec's for each device in your system, (which should be in
the sheet/manual for each device, or look on the manufacturers website -
don't forget to include the CPU & any extra fans), add up the currents
for each voltage, add a safety factor of about 20%.
Compare them to the continuous rated current output from the PSU. If
the requirements are less than the continuous rating for the PSU, you
should be fine for normal operation.
*However*, there is one complication: Hard disks need much more 12V on
startup, while the spindle motor is coming up up to speed. Calculate the
same figures as above, using the startup current figures from the disk
drive spec's instead of the continuous rating to give you the startup
load. If the 12V load is still under the continuous rating of the PSU,
everything's fine. If it's within the peak (temporary) load of the PSU,
you should be okay in theory, but in practice, the cheaper PSUs are
likely to fail earlier. If the startup load is greater than the PSU peak
rating, get a heavier PSU.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[James Sweet]

lumens.
Another complaint of dollar store CFLs is that most are bluish
"daylight" in color, including some in packages saying "SUN Lighting" and
some in packages that say "Soft warm white light". A majority of the few
of my dollar store CFLs that actually had a "warm" color had a color more
purplish than other "warm" CFLs and also had a low color rendering index.

Usually those "daylight" ones cost significantly more, I like them for
outdoor lighting, they really make plants glow.

 

[Peter]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'm not in Europe, I'm located in the US.
There use to be a guy on this newsgroup, I believe his name was Dean Kidd
and he use to work for Tek I believe. He was a great help with my 465. I was
hoping to find him, I sent him an email but it came back saying it was an
invalid email address.

I did d/l that manual from the site, but it looks like it's individual
circuits as opposed to entire schematics, not to mention it takes forever to
scroll around in .pdf format.

I'll hopefully pull it apart sometime soon.

Thanks


"TekMan" <and7@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:6a624601.0410132305.d4264b7@posting.google.com...

"Peter" <bpeter97@aol.com> wrote in message
news:<Yi1bd.228736$MQ5.192797@attbi_s52>...
It's a bit late right now, but I'll try to do some further testing
tomorrow
and get back to you. Thanks a lot for your help!!!!

In a quick note, the scope seems to work fine after I press the trigger
button to get rid of the error, but after about 3min the screen shuts
off,
if I move the position up and down, you can see a VERY fant light moving.
You have to really look though and if you didn't know any better, you
wouldn't think the scope wasn't on. All the other lights remain on. But
if I
shut it off and turn it back on, the scope works fine again (still with
the
error), but this time it goes off a lot quicker. My GUESS is that the
heater
voltage is shutting off, but I don't know.

Thanks again




Let me know how things turn out. I guess - following your description
-- it's time to open the case and do some measurements. But: That'S no
job to be done when you are tired

Before you get desparate:
If you are loacated in europe, I might be able to arange a repair
contact for a reasonable (=low) rate.

Let's know how things turn out.

hth,
Andreas

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 13 Oct 2004 05:36:22 -0700, winnie33pooh@email.com (Chris) put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have a Pentium III PC, it has an Abit SA6R mobo.
The old power supply (250W) was bad, the PC wouldn't
switch on instantly until after some uncertain warm up period.
I bought this new power supply (300W) to replace
the old one. Now it switches on instantly. But the PC
still resets itself for no reason during cold boot.
However, once it's warm up, it runs fine.
Is the mobo or the CPU also bad?
The new power supply -12V line value is from -12.85V to -13.05V.
The Hardware Doctor software sets the lower limit for -12V line
to -13.01V, it often sends warning that the -12V line
is out of limit. Is the -12V line's value too high?
Should I try another new power supply?

Thanks in advance!

Check the electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard, particularly the
ones in the Vcore power supply.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Norm Dresner]

"Thomas P. Gootee" <tomg@fullnet.com> wrote in message
news:11915d6.0410140738.341a7505@posting.google.com...

Sidney,

I have complete plans for a VERY nice little curve tracer, at:

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteect.htm

I also have them on ebay.com, fairly often, where they sometimes sell
for slightly less.

Tom

Tom Gootee
tomg@fullnet.com
http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

It looks fairly nice.

UNFORTUNATELY, NOBODY PLAYS SHIT MUSIC ON MY COMPUTER WITHOUT MY CONSENT SO
I'M BLACKLISTING YOUR @#$% SITE.

 

[JW]

On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 01:52:52 -0700 "Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark
Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in Message id:
<10mv4q1pn2vcv29@corp.supernews.com>:

"CBFalconer" <cbfalconer@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:416F7B74.E4EAAB68@yahoo.com...
larrymoencurly wrote:
"Chip" <anneonymouse@virgin.net> wrote in message:

"Qtec" - for example - are a very popular low-end brand. You
might refer to them as a no-name, but arguably they are one step
up from that. They produce a very popular 550w PSU.

The first thing to note is that by 550w, they mean *Peak*. Which
basically means nothing at all.

I didn't believe it until I visited their website. This has got
to be the first time that a company has admitted that its most
prominently advertised power rating was for peak power. Is it a
sign of greater honesty, or of lower standards?

Are you sure that Q-tec is a step above no-names? This picture of
the
insides of their 550W model:
www.bit-tech.net/images/review/123/7.jpg
Makes i seem more like a decent 250W.


5 Va.c. _________\|____ 1 k ohm ___________________ 5 V out
/| | |
diode | |
1000 uF 5V zener
|________|
|
gnd

should provide 5v regulated with a 600 or more peak power output
rating. Depends only on the quality of the capacitor. Maybe I
should go into business.

600 or more _what_?

I'm assuming he meant watts, but...

Where do you get 5VAC?

More importantly, if he did mean watts, I'd like to see how it'll get
through that 1k resistor

 

[James Del Mul]

Try unplugging the base for a little while. That sometimes resets everything
and then the base will "see" the handset.

Also check the manual to see if there is a way to program handsets to match
the base.

"al" <albertpinto@canada.com> wrote in message
news:6e624e41.0410150340.390ef416@posting.google.com...

I have a uniden cordless phone 2.5Ghz handset. The handset is not
talking to the base, i.e. no dial tone it turns off after few beeps.
I have checked the voltage coming out of the battery and it is OK.
The base is working fine and have dialtone and can make phone calls
normally. Also the intercom/paging feature does not work. Any
pointors as to what problem could this be?

TIA

 

[john]

Get a 47mfd the 220mfd is to much C.

kip

 

[Chuck Harris]

keith wrote:

No, *NOT* induction! It's simple resistance. You simply don't want to
be in the middle. The idea is to float, like a boat.

Brings to mind an interesting question. Out here in well and septic
country, the code authorities make us ground the electrical system with
a UFER ground (copper wire buried in concrete, buried in the ground).
But they also make us ground our well pumps to the steel well casing.

Which gives us.... competing grounds with different ground potentials.

I wonder how much trouble that causes with lightning?

-Chuck

 

[PaPaPeng]

On 9 Oct 2004 09:12:48 -0700, numanracing@tiscali.co.uk (NumanR)
wrote:

The motors are used for racing r/c cars, now please take this
seriously as there is a tool on the market which costs Ł600 which
appears to be just a high strength magnet.(This is used before each
race by the top racers) What I want is a cheaper alternative, or an
idea to help me build wht i need. The magnets are subjected to heat
and I think this effects the magnets. I cannot stop the heat but if I
could top up the magnets each time then this would help. Thanks for
your ideas.

Is it possible to strap rare earth magnets on the motor casing to
boost the strength of the motor's magnet?

 

[JVC dude]

You normally get that situation when another switch is leaky/shorting out,
thus preventing the micro running a small section of code loop. Perhaps
there is noise on the remote line from the sensor, again this could
interrupt the micro. As for a faulty micro or one with a duff port/rom, its
very unlikely. I havent a manual for anything similar to check pins etc.
also check supply rail for almost exactly 5.0volts

Good luck
AW

 

[Sofie]

Michael:
The settings you disturbed are unique to the specific CRT, circuit board
and deflection yoke of your particular television. You will need to start
from square one and perform an alignment..... and color balance if you also
disturbed those settings. This is exactly why the service menu is not
mentioned in the owner/operation manual...... these settings can only be
properly set by experienced techs with the proper test equipment and
specific television set-up documentation.
when you take it to a qualified service shop make certain they get a
heads-up on what adjustments may have been altered.... it will save them
time, and if it saves them time it will save you money.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"mtetto" <mtetto@usa.net> wrote in message
news:a9a78303.0410151305.6ee0601f@posting.google.com...

Hello-

I have the TV mentioned above, a Panasonic CT-27D11. It has a bit of a
pincushion problem, so I thought that maybe there would be something
in the Service Menu that may address it
(http://www.calanan.com/panasonic/). Rather stupidly, I started
adjusting settings without writing them down. I was wondering if
anyone had the above TV, or any in the following list, that would be
willing to look in their service menu to let me know the original
settings. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Michael Tetto

Similar TV's:
CT-27D11, CT-27D11U, CT-27D21, CT-27D21U, CT-27D31, CT-C7D31U,
CT-2772S, CT-2772SU, CT-32D11, CT-32D11U, CT-32D31, CT-32D31U,
CT-36D11, CT-36D11U, CT-36D31, CT-36D31U

 

[CBFalconer]

JW wrote:

the Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:
"CBFalconer" <cbfalconer@yahoo.com> wrote in message
larrymoencurly wrote:
"Chip" <anneonymouse@virgin.net> wrote in message:

"Qtec" - for example - are a very popular low-end brand. You
might refer to them as a no-name, but arguably they are one step
up from that. They produce a very popular 550w PSU.

The first thing to note is that by 550w, they mean *Peak*. Which
basically means nothing at all.

I didn't believe it until I visited their website. This has got
to be the first time that a company has admitted that its most
prominently advertised power rating was for peak power. Is it a
sign of greater honesty, or of lower standards?

Are you sure that Q-tec is a step above no-names? This picture
of the insides of their 550W model:
www.bit-tech.net/images/review/123/7.jpg
Makes i seem more like a decent 250W.

5 Va.c. _________\|____ 1 k ohm ___________________ 5 V out
/| | |
diode | |
1000 uF 5V zener
|________|
|
gnd

should provide 5v regulated with a 600 or more peak power output
rating. Depends only on the quality of the capacitor. Maybe I
should go into business.

600 or more _what_?

I'm assuming he meant watts, but...

Where do you get 5VAC?

More importantly, if he did mean watts, I'd like to see how
it'll get through that 1k resistor

It doesn't have to. I said peak, which is supplied by the
capacitor alone. The point is that the (flawed) specification can
be filled with about two bits worth of parts. The requirement, for
500 W. peak at 5V, is that the capacitor can supply 100 A. for any
period, no matter how minute. You can use as small a capacitor as
you like, also, provided it has low internal resistance.

--
Chuck F (cbfalconer@yahoo.com) (cbfalconer@worldnet.att.net)
Available for consulting/temporary embedded and systems.
<http://cbfalconer.home.att.net> USE worldnet address!

 

[JURB6006]

Anyway I would like to learn how to properly adjust the bias level on
any amplifier by using a scope.This would be a very useful tip.

I will post it in a different thread, perhaps tonight if I can do it before my
crowd of Friday night rowdies shows up.

JURB

 

[Tweetldee]

"Norm Dresner" <ndrez@att.net> wrote in message
news:avKbd.551853$OB3.246611@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

"Thomas P. Gootee" <tomg@fullnet.com> wrote in message
news:11915d6.0410140738.341a7505@posting.google.com...

Sidney,

I have complete plans for a VERY nice little curve tracer, at:

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteect.htm

I also have them on ebay.com, fairly often, where they sometimes sell
for slightly less.

Tom

Tom Gootee
tomg@fullnet.com
http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

It looks fairly nice.

UNFORTUNATELY, NOBODY PLAYS SHIT MUSIC ON MY COMPUTER WITHOUT MY CONSENT
SO
I'M BLACKLISTING YOUR @#$% SITE.

Lighten up, dude.. you gonna blow a gasket there... If a little tune sets
you off like that, I'd hate to be around you if somebody spilled wine on
your white jacket!! Woohoooooooooo

--
Dave M

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[Jerry G.]

On some of these models, it is fixed at 1 hour. There are some others
that were made around the time of your set where each time you press the
sleep function on the remote, it would step through 15 minute intervals
until it came around to off again. The maximum was 1 hour on these.

--

Jerry G.
======

"fastsnoopy" <fastsnoopy@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:69818bf7.0410150602.2f4a422b@posting.google.com...
I have a Sony KV13TR27 but no manual. Can someone help me with the
sleep function. I see how to turn it on and off, but have no idea
what the default time is or how to set a time.

Thanks in advance.

 

[James Sweet]

"Wizard of Ozz" <easytoremember123@email.com> wrote in message
news:fbcc7457.0410152037.4f1da73e@posting.google.com...

I'm using Windows 98 and I just bought a new monitor, a Samsung
SyncMaster 793s 17" screen. My old one was a Samsung Syncmaster 3 14"
screen.

When I went to change the monitor type on the Active Desktop list of
monitors, it obviously didn't have the newer 793s, so I tried to pick
a standardized monitor type from the list (at the top of the list it
says "standard monitor types").

I'm stuck between 2 options:
Super VGA 1024x768
Super VGA 1024x768 at 75 Hz

How can I tell which one I should pick? Also, does it matter if I
continue to use the monitor with the setting wrongly selected for the
older Syncmaster 3? What does this setting change, anyhow?

I should also note that the CD that came with the monitor only
provided drivers for Win2000 and up to Win XP, but not for Win 95/98.

Look up what modes the new monitor supports and pick something close, the
selection simply changes the resolutions and refresh rates available, hiding
those not supported by a particular model. Personally I would just choose
something generic, set it to the resolution I wanted, and then bump up the
refresh rate one notch at a time until either the picture looks distorted or
the monitor shuts down, and then back it off one.

 

[Franklin]

On 14 Oct 2004, Chip wrote:

Generics on the other hand, are a lottery. Their wattage
rating means almost nothing, they can only be assumed to be
somewhere inbetween 200W and 400W without further evidence.

Absolutely correct. "Qtec" - for example - are a very popular
low-end brand. You might refer to them as a no-name, but
arguably they are one step up from that. They produce a very
popular 550w PSU.

Poor old Qtechnology - who make some half-decent PSUs. They must be
sick of having a name so silimar to that of Q-Tec.

http://www.qtec.info/products/
http://www.qtechnology.net/products.htm

And don't forget to throw in a hyphen into Q-Tec but not into
QTechnology. Omit the hyphen from both their URLs. The potential
for confusion keeps on growing!