Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[dmsing]

Folks,
I too am having a problem with the same TV. When it works, all works
well, but sometimes when you click the on/off button or from the remote,
you can hear the "click" so that part is working. The problem is that the
TV will not turn on a show a picture all the time. You can click the
button 10 times and nothing will happen, but sometimes after you unplug
the TV and plug it back in, it will work. Other times when you do get a
picture, the screen will flicker and than turn off. Any ideas? I do not
mind taking it apart and replacing an easy piece. Thank you for your
time.

 

[The little lost angel]

On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 22:05:08 -0400, keith <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote:

I don't think I can talk my wife into allowing such a system.


Chuck, Chuck, Chuck, you obviously haven't tried hard enough. L'Angel is
giving you the ammunition. Tell SWMBO that another of her half agrees
with you. Build that 400' tow^h^h^hlightning arrestor; her life may
depend on it! ...but watch the blinkin' lights. ;-)

I din say I agreed with having some ugly monstrousity hanging over
anybody's house!!! I was only sharing something I read! But of course
if he could find a way to make a 200ft lightning rod look pretty...
PpPpPpP

--
L.Angel: I'm looking for web design work.
If you need basic to med complexity webpages at affordable rates, email me
Standard HTML, SHTML, MySQL + PHP or ASP, Javascript.
If you really want, FrontPage & DreamWeaver too.
But keep in mind you pay extra bandwidth for their bloated code

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <wIo9d.12393$na.6133@trnddc04>, James Sweet wrote:

I have not had any of the really smnall ones like you referred to, but
have some considerable use of the larger wattages. Name brands, like
GE and Sylvania have held up well. Lights of America have been pretty
poor, others somewhere in between. I have taken to saving the
guarantees and using them whenever I had a failure. It is barely
worth the trouble, but we need to hold manufacturers to the fire and
so I go through the process.

To their credit, I had Feit send me some replacement lamps for free when I
explained a rash of early failures. LOA wanted me to mail them the old lamps
along with the reciept from when I bought them, even if I'd found the
reciept it'd cost more to mail the lamps than to buy new ones.

I'm starting to wish I did when three of the four LOA ones that I bought
so far this decade died very young. If enough people pester those who
give us junk with their junk and work to go through honoring their
warranty, then they will shape up or go out of business.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/cfx.html)

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 20:18:54 +0100, Rudi K.
<Rudi.K..1e2zbn@news.diybanter.com> wrote:

|
|I must repair my old EIZO monitor. There are two Diode called R4KL. Does
|anybody know, where i can get them?
|Is it possible to get a datasheet of this type?
|Does anybody know an äquivalent type?
|Thank´s for help.
|Rudi
|
|PS: My English isn´t good. Sorry

Why not type r4kl into google and see what happens?

 

[JW]

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 10:30:24 GMT "Norm Dresner" <ndrez@att.net> wrote in
Message id: <4t7bd.693902$Gx4.290636@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>:

"trippin28track" <trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e5b393c3.0410121505.5049ce3a@posting.google.com...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4043207138&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

interesting lot of pop/rock/heavy metal/etc. cassette tapes

Yeah, I can see why you'd think your stereo needed repair after playing that
stuff

I'd rather it stay broken.

 

[Rono]

The common failure is the 22uf np (non-polarized)
50 volt capacitor in the power supply! Rono.

"Mac" <cthirty7@nospamhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:_sydnR5vN_BUz_DcRVn-jA@centurytel.net...

I am trying to bring an RCA VR 618HF vcr back to life. When I plug it in,
it shows absolutely no sign of life.
The power supply fuse is not blown. There are no signs of smoke,
overvoltage, and no circuit foil or components are burned.
I tore it apart and removed the circuit board so I could access the bottom
side of the smps. Checked ESR on
all electrolytic caps, only one (C813) checked high. Replaced it, powered
it up, same symptoms. Ohmmetered
the switching transistor and it measures a short (out of circuit). It is
a
BUL26XI. I can't find an exact match
in the NTE cross reference, but checking BUL26 crosses to an NTE 2333 -
(has
anyone used the NTE 2333
to replace one of these?) I was reading through some of Sam Goldwasser's
vcr troubleshooting and smps troubleshooting info, and decided I had
better
check some of the resistors in the
circuit. Did that and there are two (I believe fusible) resistors that
are
open. Can anyone (who has a schematic)
tell me the values for R817 and R818? They measure completely open and
they
have five bands on them so I am
not sure how to read the value (which end to you start at?)

Thanks for any help.

Mac


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.776 / Virus Database: 523 - Release Date: 10/12/2004

 

[Matti Adolfsen]

Ross Herbert wrote:

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 20:18:54 +0100, Rudi K.
Rudi.K..1e2zbn@news.diybanter.com> wrote:

|
|I must repair my old EIZO monitor. There are two Diode called R4KL. Does
|anybody know, where i can get them?
|Is it possible to get a datasheet of this type?

I have a similar monitor with a similar problem. The PSU transistor and
other components seem to be OK (though I need to check capacitor
ESR's...). Both diodes are shorted.

The R4KL is an avalanche diode, originally manufactured by SANKEN, and
discontinued a few years ago. I had no luck finding a Sanken catalogue
old enough to find out the specifications.

I hope someone can help us to find the specifications or near-equivalent
type.

Matti

 

[kony]

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 05:14:10 -0700, "Watson A.Name - \"Watt
Sun, the Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:

It's true that an insufficient power supply can cause both
instability and eventual damage, but the typical Athlon
system does not need 400W, and there is almost no "PC"
system that needs 500W, even if the vast majority of the
current were concentrated on only the 5V or 12V rail.

With a typical PC, that being current-gen CPU, a couple hard
drives, budget/low-end video card, etc, 300W PSU in a good
name brand is sufficient. SFF systems demonstrate every day
that even a 180-250W PSU will run a modern built with enough
margin for another hard drive or two... but the PSU may need
replaced sooner.

Generics on the other hand, are a lottery. Their wattage
rating means almost nothing, they can only be assumed to be
somewhere inbetween 200W and 400W without further evidence.

I'm surprised at all the posts that have so many assertions, yet so
little thought and consideration. I don't think I've yet seen an
authoritative URL or two to back up those assertions.

Hmmmmm. Claiming little thought and consideration and
mentioning lack of URLs, yet you DON'T PROVIDE ANY YOURSELF.
Seems a bit odd, no?

We all know that usenet is not a place where every statement
is backed up with essays and links... that's what google is
for.

Very little solid advice. Like check the hard disk and see what the
current ratings are, and add them up to get a total. Especially the
+12VDC because the motor takes quite a bit of current from that.

That will tell you little to nothing about the needed
spin-up current.

And I really detest those claims that PCs don't use very much power.
The most I can get on a 20A circuit is about a dozen, and the breaker
blows. I figure that's about 150W per PC. And those are old timers,
like P233s.

1) Do not run a dozen systems on a single 20A circuit then.

2) 150W sounds about right. Typical PSU efficiency is 75%,
so system is using 113W from psu, in line with what might be
expected from a P233 box.

If you want to play it safe, buy a couple external HD enclosures with
power brick, and use them with a USB 2.0 card. That will relieve the
case and PS of a lot of power and heat. I have a couple of these, and
they get fairly warm, after an hour or so, so they do suck a fair amount
of power.

Not too safe for the data is it, running an enclosure
that'll "get fairly warm"?

External enclosures don't necessarily have very good power
supplies either, the drive may be safer in the system
regardless of cooling issues.

It is a good idea to add up current consumption of all
devices, providing the HDD spin-up current is taken into
account, and that it is recognized that not all devices can
possibly consume max current simultaneously. That's where
a lot of online calculators make mistakes, suggesting 500W+
PSU for systems with lower power consumption than many
running fine from 300W PSU. Then someone comes along and
claims their gee-whiz-bang generic that's rated for 400W
couldn't cut it... not because it didn't have high enough
wattage but because the labeled rating was only wishful
thinking.

 

[kony]

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 14:09:48 +0100, "Chip"
<anneonymouse@virgin.net> wrote:

"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:kcnpm09f0bpipffbtss44np08f8rj1mb7s@4ax.com...

[snip]

Generics on the other hand, are a lottery. Their wattage
rating means almost nothing, they can only be assumed to be
somewhere inbetween 200W and 400W without further evidence.

Absolutely correct. "Qtec" - for example - are a very popular low-end
brand. You might refer to them as a no-name, but arguably they are one step
up from that. They produce a very popular 550w PSU.

The first thing to note is that by 550w, they mean *Peak*. Which basically
means nothing at all. They don't specify for how long this peak is
available, nor under what conditions. Its a bit like saying these pills
will increase your penis length by "up to" 4 inches.

Furthermore, they give no indication at all about what the sustained power
is. But don't worry, 550w is lots isn't it, so surely it can't be a
problem. LOL

So what is the max. current available on the 12v rail on a Qtec 550w? 30A
maybe? 28A? 25A?

No. Its 14A. Read it and weep. 14A.

It wouldn't power my laptop.

14A of stable, clean power is enough for most basic systems.
It might not be sufficient for 6 drives PLUS a CPU using 12V
rail for power, nor adding a high-end modern video card, but
it would run any typical mid-grade system fine (if that 14A
were from a decent PSU).

The problem though is how many corners are cut, 14A from a
PSU with undersized inductors and poor filter caps may have
horrible ripple... it also says nothing about how the PSU
behaves when it goes out of spec, what tolerances it's
designed to meet and how quickly it'd shut down if it
failed. Sometimes you really have to dig to get specs for
individual components in a PSU, but most often you don't, if
a corner was cut in one area to save on construction costs
then other corners were obviously cut too, with the end
result being that a PSU worth only 250W, looks like a 250W
PSU inside.

 

[JVC Dude]

I presume US models will use the same as our UK method.
press mute and info button together on an original remote
be careful what you tinker with. don't adjust the cutoffs etc, just stick to
the basic settings

hope that helps
AW

"Bill" <wah_wah65@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:208c5353.0410131152.3a981f48@posting.google.com...

I know there is a way to adjust the brightness and other functions
internally. I don't recall the key combination to access these
internal functions. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Chip]

"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:2e3tm0ln5m0et7lehesfaabkafsrda4uau@4ax.com...

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 14:09:48 +0100, "Chip"
anneonymouse@virgin.net> wrote:


"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:kcnpm09f0bpipffbtss44np08f8rj1mb7s@4ax.com...

[snip]

Generics on the other hand, are a lottery. Their wattage
rating means almost nothing, they can only be assumed to be
somewhere inbetween 200W and 400W without further evidence.

Absolutely correct. "Qtec" - for example - are a very popular low-end
brand. You might refer to them as a no-name, but arguably they are one
step
up from that. They produce a very popular 550w PSU.

The first thing to note is that by 550w, they mean *Peak*. Which
basically
means nothing at all. They don't specify for how long this peak is
available, nor under what conditions. Its a bit like saying these pills
will increase your penis length by "up to" 4 inches.

Furthermore, they give no indication at all about what the sustained power
is. But don't worry, 550w is lots isn't it, so surely it can't be a
problem. LOL

So what is the max. current available on the 12v rail on a Qtec 550w? 30A
maybe? 28A? 25A?

No. Its 14A. Read it and weep. 14A.

It wouldn't power my laptop.

14A of stable, clean power is enough for most basic systems.
It might not be sufficient for 6 drives PLUS a CPU using 12V
rail for power, nor adding a high-end modern video card, but
it would run any typical mid-grade system fine (if that 14A
were from a decent PSU).

Well whoopy do.

I suggest people who buy this crap are wanting a big powerful PSU. That's
why they buy the thing labelled 550W. Otherwise they would be the even more
crap 450W version. And then they get their nice new 550W PSU to run their
powerful graphics card, overclocked CPU and a couple of disks and case fans
and.... they find it doesn't cut it.

The problem though is how many corners are cut, 14A from a
PSU with undersized inductors and poor filter caps may have
horrible ripple...

Yep. I'll bet its crap at that too. BTW I forgot to mention it runs a
"whisper quiet" 34dbA. As compared to perhaps 22 dBA from a Quality PSU.

it also says nothing about how the PSU
behaves when it goes out of spec, what tolerances it's
designed to meet and how quickly it'd shut down if it
failed. Sometimes you really have to dig to get specs for
individual components in a PSU, but most often you don't, if
a corner was cut in one area to save on construction costs
then other corners were obviously cut too, with the end
result being that a PSU worth only 250W, looks like a 250W
PSU inside.

Frankly I think you'd be better off with a 250W Antec than one of these
"550W" Qtec things.

Chip.

 

[G. Louie]

I have DVE, not Avia. The disc has all the test patterns needed to
calibrate a TV, and some instructions and tutorials. What you do
with them is up to you. You can adjust the user controls from the
instructions to get "calibrated" as well as you can - depending on how
your TV is internally calibrated. Basically, that's things like
brightness, contrast, color and tint.

Some TVs cannot be well calibrated at all from the user controls. You have
to go to the service menu (or inside the set if old), and even then, many
set designs will not calibrate correctly, and/or show design deficiencies
that you can't do anything about. If you know how to adjust service menu
items, such as RGB levels for white balance, the patterns on the DVD are
what you need, but things like white balance also require a colorimeter of
some sort.

The DVDs are much cheaper than buying a signal generator.


In article <vh9tm0t7od11m6tnki99tb0d3fvbfp22he@4ax.com>,
Tom MacIntyre <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote:

On 14 Oct 2004 09:01:01 -0700, dbacks@attglobal.net (Marc) wrote:

Hey guys,

I need to calibrate the color on a Sony Television, and I see several
DVDs for sale that claim to assist in this calibration.

Video Essentials and Avia are the two most common that I have seen
advertised.

Has anyone had any personal experience using a dvd to calibrate the
color, or possibly a dvd by a different brand.

Do any of these do what they claim?

Any thoughts, suggestions or input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

Two thoughts...does this DVD require you to go inside the set? I find
it strange that something like that is targetted towards the general
public, but one never knows. If not, this may not be what you need
(remembering your earlier post). Also, I think some older sets have
problems with DVD playback. Is this not an older set?

I may be wrong on both counts.

Tom

 

[Franklin]

On 12 Oct 2004, kony wrote:

Nexus relabels Sparkle PSU. If you can find a Sparkle (or
Fortron) 350W for lower price it would be better value.

350W is enough for your system but if motherboard uses 12V
for CPU (one sign of that would be that the board uses the
"Intel" P4 4-pin 12V connector in addition to the ATX 20 pin
connector) then it would provide more margin to choose 400W
or higher (Nexus/Sparkle/Fortron will still be a good choice
in 400W or higher).

Kony, aren't the power requirements (current at certain voltages) of
a mobo fairly fixed? You seem to suggest it is not so.

I had always thought that if I a mobo based on chipset X with a given
Athlon processor (say a T'bred B) then the current at various
voltages required to run this by most mobos on the market is pretty
much the same.

Is there a significant variation in voltages/current required?

Is any such variation mainly due to the design of the mobo? Or is it
mainly due to the choice of components (chipset and processor)?

 

[Chip]

"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:tvitm09vdcmttobqj6ag8j0a5slu3airun@4ax.com...

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 19:21:39 +0100, "Chip"
anneonymouse@virgin.net> wrote:


The CPU doesn't need the 12 VDC, does it?

That is part of the problem with PS choice...the consideration must be
made for amperage needs for all voltages, not just total power.

Yes, modern P4 or Athlon 64 platforms and many (mostly
nForce2) Athlon XP do use 12V for CPU. The CPU power is
derived from 12V input by step down regulation. Any board
using 12V for CPU power will have the "Intel" 4-pin 12V
connector on it. When there is no 4-pin 12V input the odds
are overwhelming on a "PC" that it's using 5V for CPU power,
as did earlier Athlon & Pentium 3 'boards.

I think you may be mistaken there. I have come across a number of boards
that don't have the 4-pin connector, but still run the CPU off the 12v
supply. The Albatron nf2 board is one that springs to mind.

Nope, then it uses 5V for CPU. What made you think it used
12V? Measure it with a multimeter.

If this is the Albatron you're referring to,
http://www.amdboard.com/km18g-pro.jpg
it clearly is only 2 phase VRM, 5V CPU power.

No, its not. As soon as I posted I thought perhaps on reflection it was not
their nf2 board.

If you have other boards in mind, supply link to a decent
picture.

I will if I can find it. I specifically remember a review of an Albatron
board where they were questioning the sanity of the designers not including
the P4 connector on a 12V board. Perhaps it was the KT600 or KT880 board, I
can't remember.

There are definitely NONE from any remotely
recognizable mainstream motherboard manufacturers, except
those not traditionally considered "PC" boards... something
using EPS 24 pin ATX or another deviation from the 20 pin
ATX connector. The reason for this is that no competent
designer will derive CPU power from a single 12V lead on the
ATX 20-pin wiring harness.

Not so. See my comment above.

Chip

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 11:50:53 -0400, Shawn D'Alimonte
<aa600@torfree.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Does anything use -12V theses days?

Lab cards?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Sofie]

dmsing:
You really need to go to the website for this newsgroup at
http://www.repairfaq.org/
Plan to spend some time there searching and reading.... lots of good
information, troubleshooting tips, repair procedures, component testing
methods, and important safety information.
If, after reading through the information, you are still not certain how to
proceed with the repair of your Zenith television and/or you do not have the
necessary electronics knowledge, repair experience, test equipment and
tools.... you might be best advised to TAKE your television to a repair
shop for a repair cost estimate so you can make an intelligent repair
decision with facts instead of internet or telephone wild guesses.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"dmsing" <dmsing@att.net> wrote in message
news:c9ae81298c8bbc9038c3f56f1b9eba54@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

Folks,
I too am having a problem with the same TV. When it works, all works
well, but sometimes when you click the on/off button or from the remote,
you can hear the "click" so that part is working. The problem is that the
TV will not turn on a show a picture all the time. You can click the
button 10 times and nothing will happen, but sometimes after you unplug
the TV and plug it back in, it will work. Other times when you do get a
picture, the screen will flicker and than turn off. Any ideas? I do not
mind taking it apart and replacing an easy piece. Thank you for your
time.

 

[Art]

Prob in the yoke return circuit, may have a defective yoke or another
component in that circuit or the pincushion circuit.
"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1cfa6663.0410141438.2812d546@posting.google.com...

"rik" <rik.viaene@pandora.be> wrote in message
news:<O3zbd.835$tt4.223576363@hebe.telenet-ops.be>...
I got a LG tv picture is stretched out ( to big to fit on screen )
Found C410 10uF/250V bad.
Replaced C410 with new and tested tv the thing thats happens now is C410
becomes very hot and start to smoke.

any help is welcome

Thanks in advance
Rik

not familiar with this set but that cap's spec sounds like it is the
filter on the RGB line feed from the LOPTX (flyback), about 200v. This
cap going bad usually causes colour/smearing etc. problems rather than
raster size probs, though I may be wrong....
if the B+ voltage is not in spec then this can cause all kinds of
problems, check it, failing that something in the RGB area or maybe
even the LOPTX?

just my 2 cents worth!
Ben

 

[Art]

Generically speaking, without a model or chassis I'd again say it may be
broken> That is generically speaking.
"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lr4tm0de7p0iggdsljv19g9c7qpgnfkrq3@4ax.com...

On 13 Oct 2004 19:49:21 -0700, hephaestus@phreaker.net (Hephaestus)
wrote:

I recently found a 40" Quasar TV in the trash (yes, I realize I'm a
lucky bastard).

After fixing the on-off switch, which was broken (why don't people
check switches and fuses first? They seem to be the most commonly
broken electronics components, by far ...), it is "mostly" working.

Switches don't fail that often, and even when they do, the remote
control will still work. Fuses fail due to other components failing
first, almost exclusively.


The last minor flaw is that while the width is perfect in the middle,
the top
and bottom are stretched horizontally, leaving about an inch or so at
the left and right outside of the viewing area. Most of the time it
isn't noticeable, but when an image with vertical lines near the edges
of the image is displayed (for example, a jail cell) it is very
obvious that the image is distorted from a rectangle to an hourglass
shape. The satellite TV menu (due to its gridlike
nature) is also quite noticeably distorted.

It's somewhere in the pincushion circuit probably, and that is likely
why it was trashed also.

Tom


Anyone know the cause and/or fix?

-Tim

 

[Bradley26]

You all may know this, but I found that a video camera, like the small PC
camera can see the laser beam very well, when the laser appears off by eye.


"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message
news:2t1nbsF1pflgtU1@uni-berlin.de...

"Rich" <rkoziol_no**s+pam@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:9pAad.111410$He1.86498@attbi_s01...

"Ken G." <goodguyy@webtv.net> wrote in

I work on alot of new DVD players ( store returns ) of all kinds and
maybe 1% work after a lens cleaning .

Having so many on hand i try switching lazor assemblies and that
normaly
fixes the problem .. other times its the driver board

Sounds like contacts on the laser assy plug get some film on them.
Switching them around just rubs off the oxide.

I have never removed the laser assy (not a tech), but don't you have
to align them in any way? I'd be tempted to just pull it out and put
it back in, if that's possible. I'm the OP in this thread.

Regards,

Rich


If one is just swapping, then normally you'd swap the entire, pre-aligned
mech. Additionally, some newer DVD player have all or mostly software
adjustments, even auto-adjustments.

Mark Z.

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <slrncmk3uu.chb.don@manx.misty.com>, I - Don Klipstein wrote:

I'm starting to wish I did when three of the four LOA ones that I bought
so far this decade died very young. If enough people pester those who
give us junk with their junk and work to go through honoring their
warranty, then they will shape up or go out of business.

Oops - I look back on written records handy to me, turns out I only
bought three LOA units so far this decade and had early failure of just
two.

Other early failures I had so far in CFLs that I bought so far this
decade:

1. Two GE 25 watt spirals that I bought in 2001 both failed after just a
few hundred operating hours. I no longer see GE 25 watt spirals on the
market.

2. I have purchased at least three dozen dollar store compact
fluorescents, totalling 10 "brands" and 22 "models". One was DOA and one
failed after just a few minutes of operation. Two others were "not right"
- one with an excessively hot base and one that flickered and had light
output much lower than that of other dollar store CFLs.

My main complaint of dollar store CFLs, however, is exaggerated claims
of light output. None of my 22 "models" matched nor exceeded the light
output of a 40 watt "soft white" incandescent, rated 445 lumens. Some of
these claimed to replace incandescents of 125 watts. One claimed 1130
lumens.
Another complaint of dollar store CFLs is that most are bluish
"daylight" in color, including some in packages saying "SUN Lighting" and
some in packages that say "Soft warm white light". A majority of the few
of my dollar store CFLs that actually had a "warm" color had a color more
purplish than other "warm" CFLs and also had a low color rendering index.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)