J
john
Guest
Dont forget to tell the poor tech that
you screwed it up in the service menu,s.
when you take it in to get repaired.
kip
you screwed it up in the service menu,s.
when you take it in to get repaired.
kip
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JURB6006
Guest
I've seen Sony CRTs go bad that way more than once. If the HSTAT control is on
the CRT board that means the HSTAT resistor is inside the CRT.
I happen to have one of these sets with a power supply propblem I don't
especially feel like fixing. It had a very strong CRT. If it turns out you need
it I'm in Cleveland Ohio. If you are far away shipping will kill you, but I'll
let it go reasonable, either the whole set or just the CRT (other parts fit my
KPR36-XBR).
JURB
the CRT board that means the HSTAT resistor is inside the CRT.
I happen to have one of these sets with a power supply propblem I don't
especially feel like fixing. It had a very strong CRT. If it turns out you need
it I'm in Cleveland Ohio. If you are far away shipping will kill you, but I'll
let it go reasonable, either the whole set or just the CRT (other parts fit my
KPR36-XBR).
JURB
J
JURB6006
Guest
You probably should buy the one on eBay, $10.50 right now. Those are a little
bit hard to find.
Even harder to find are the digital 2700 series radios, but if you had one of
those my parts would work in most of them.
Yours is a different animal.
We seem to agree on cars, I have an 87 LeSabre I wouldn't trade for a new
Caddilac. Just wish I could find the fuse for the rear defogger.
JURB
bit hard to find.
Even harder to find are the digital 2700 series radios, but if you had one of
those my parts would work in most of them.
Yours is a different animal.
We seem to agree on cars, I have an 87 LeSabre I wouldn't trade for a new
Caddilac. Just wish I could find the fuse for the rear defogger.
JURB
M
Mike Wilson
Guest
Thanks! I've located the mode switch and done some more tests (not
disassembling anything yet):
I can see the mode switch wheel is standing still when I am just
powering on the unit. Other wheels on the right hand side "below
the floor" move a little and then stop - the faint sound gives me
a feeling that something is stopping them from moving more.
When inserting a tape I can see that the mode switch wheel is
rotating.
A few times when inserting the tape the unit seems to do a more
complete initialization and the video head arms are moving, but
then I hear loud clicking noises as from two wheels sliding on
each other. I can see the mode wheel standing still but vibrating
in sync with the clicks, as if something that wants to move is
stuck. Do you have any idea why this happens, doesn't seem
directly related to the mode switch...?
I shot a video of this behaviour showing first the "direct eject"
case and followed by the "full init" case. Would you please have a
look at it?
http://194.236.117.66/nvf65_hi.wmv (12MB)
http://194.236.117.66/nvf65_lo.wmv (2.5MB)
Cheers
Mike
"eddumweer" <eddumnogsteeds@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cktetm$aoi$1@news4.zwoll1.ov.home.nl...
disassembling anything yet):
I can see the mode switch wheel is standing still when I am just
powering on the unit. Other wheels on the right hand side "below
the floor" move a little and then stop - the faint sound gives me
a feeling that something is stopping them from moving more.
When inserting a tape I can see that the mode switch wheel is
rotating.
A few times when inserting the tape the unit seems to do a more
complete initialization and the video head arms are moving, but
then I hear loud clicking noises as from two wheels sliding on
each other. I can see the mode wheel standing still but vibrating
in sync with the clicks, as if something that wants to move is
stuck. Do you have any idea why this happens, doesn't seem
directly related to the mode switch...?
I shot a video of this behaviour showing first the "direct eject"
case and followed by the "full init" case. Would you please have a
look at it?
http://194.236.117.66/nvf65_hi.wmv (12MB)
http://194.236.117.66/nvf65_lo.wmv (2.5MB)
Cheers
Mike
"eddumweer" <eddumnogsteeds@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cktetm$aoi$1@news4.zwoll1.ov.home.nl...
The modeselect switch is located on the deck-top on the right back site
viewing from the front.
Here you find a picture of it http://www.donberg.ie/descript/2/20204.htm
The mode select swtich reads out the position of the deck, example play,
rewind, fast rewind and so on.
Take care of the timing of the machine. There are marks on several wheels
and also the cassettecomparment is timed to the g-deck.
If a switch is not available at once, try some not to aggressive
electracleaner in the switch for checking if it works.
Als check the pcb where the switch is mounted on for open circuit towards
the cable connector.
Greetings Peter
"Mike Wilson" <mikewse@hRoEtMmOaViEl.com> schreef in bericht
news:cktavk$2ru$1@domitilla.aioe.org...
Hi, and thanks for your replies. So you're saying that it isn't just a
simple
"stuck sensor" problem, and need lengthy repairs?
Where do I find the mode select switch? (sorry, I don't have any
schematics for the unit)
Cheers / Mike
"eddumweer" <eddumnogsteeds@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ckt85o$3ea$1@news4.zwoll1.ov.home.nl...
On g-deck check the mode select switch and timing of the mechanism
Greetings PP
"mo" <moeee@telpacific.com.au> schreef in bericht
news:c1476f84.0410162341.1e63ac87@posting.google.com...
Never really popular with technicians the old G-Mechanism.
Enjoy the frustrations of repairing or spend under $200 AUS to replace
with a new unit with more features.
"Mike Wilson" <mikewse@hRoEtMmOaViEl.com> wrote in message
news:<ckrj9r$ql5$1@domitilla.aioe.org>...
My NV-F65 VCR has come into a state where it thinks there is a tape
cassette loaded even though there isn't. It also powers down a few
seconds after turning it on.
E
eddumweer
Guest
Looks like a timingproblem, for the manual see
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/6054/Panasonic_NV-F65.html
Hope you can do anything with it.
Greetings Peter
"Mike Wilson" <mikewse@hRoEtMmOaViEl.com> schreef in bericht
news:cku538$bvn$1@domitilla.aioe.org...
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/6054/Panasonic_NV-F65.html
Hope you can do anything with it.
Greetings Peter
"Mike Wilson" <mikewse@hRoEtMmOaViEl.com> schreef in bericht
news:cku538$bvn$1@domitilla.aioe.org...
Thanks! I've located the mode switch and done some more tests (not
disassembling anything yet):
I can see the mode switch wheel is standing still when I am just
powering on the unit. Other wheels on the right hand side "below
the floor" move a little and then stop - the faint sound gives me
a feeling that something is stopping them from moving more.
When inserting a tape I can see that the mode switch wheel is
rotating.
A few times when inserting the tape the unit seems to do a more
complete initialization and the video head arms are moving, but
then I hear loud clicking noises as from two wheels sliding on
each other. I can see the mode wheel standing still but vibrating
in sync with the clicks, as if something that wants to move is
stuck. Do you have any idea why this happens, doesn't seem
directly related to the mode switch...?
I shot a video of this behaviour showing first the "direct eject"
case and followed by the "full init" case. Would you please have a
look at it?
http://194.236.117.66/nvf65_hi.wmv (12MB)
http://194.236.117.66/nvf65_lo.wmv (2.5MB)
Cheers
Mike
"eddumweer" <eddumnogsteeds@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:cktetm$aoi$1@news4.zwoll1.ov.home.nl...
The modeselect switch is located on the deck-top on the right back site
viewing from the front.
Here you find a picture of it http://www.donberg.ie/descript/2/20204.htm
The mode select swtich reads out the position of the deck, example play,
rewind, fast rewind and so on.
Take care of the timing of the machine. There are marks on several wheels
and also the cassettecomparment is timed to the g-deck.
If a switch is not available at once, try some not to aggressive
electracleaner in the switch for checking if it works.
Als check the pcb where the switch is mounted on for open circuit towards
the cable connector.
Greetings Peter
"Mike Wilson" <mikewse@hRoEtMmOaViEl.com> schreef in bericht
news:cktavk$2ru$1@domitilla.aioe.org...
Hi, and thanks for your replies. So you're saying that it isn't just a
simple
"stuck sensor" problem, and need lengthy repairs?
Where do I find the mode select switch? (sorry, I don't have any
schematics for the unit)
Cheers / Mike
"eddumweer" <eddumnogsteeds@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ckt85o$3ea$1@news4.zwoll1.ov.home.nl...
On g-deck check the mode select switch and timing of the mechanism
Greetings PP
"mo" <moeee@telpacific.com.au> schreef in bericht
news:c1476f84.0410162341.1e63ac87@posting.google.com...
Never really popular with technicians the old G-Mechanism.
Enjoy the frustrations of repairing or spend under $200 AUS to replace
with a new unit with more features.
"Mike Wilson" <mikewse@hRoEtMmOaViEl.com> wrote in message
news:<ckrj9r$ql5$1@domitilla.aioe.org>...
My NV-F65 VCR has come into a state where it thinks there is a tape
cassette loaded even though there isn't. It also powers down a few
seconds after turning it on.
J
Jim Adney
Guest
On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 12:52:48 GMT Ken <user@domain.invalid> wrote:
current system. Just pick up a cheap hard drive somewhere (I have a
525 MB you can HAVE) and reinstall DOS on it. Boot to that drive, with
your old drive mounted as the secondary drive. This way your old drive
will be recognized as the D: drive.
Once you're booted up to the new C: drive, you can examine the old
drive and see if you can read it. If you can, you'd better copy
everything to the C: drive right away.
If you have a newer computer you could certainly install this disk in
it, as a secondary drive and use any more modern OS to try to read and
copy the old drive contents. You can certainly check for viruses this
way, but it sounds like this is a much less likely senario than just a
failing hard drive.
-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
I agree with this suggestion, and you could actually do it on yourLenny wrote:
I'm running a 386/25 with Dos 6.2 for billing. Recently it has been
having problems with bad sectors on the drive showing, and refusing to
boot unless you boot off a floppy and do a sys c: from the A drive.
Now it will not boot from the hard drive at all. Luckily I copied my
customer files before this happened. But there is alot of other stuff
I would like to get off it. To rule out a virus problem is there an up
to date scan program I can get that will run from a floppy on a Dos
machine? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
I tend to agree with James, but since any anti virus program that could
be contained on one floppy would necessarily be very limited, I would
remove the HD and attach it to a system as a slave drive. After having
done so, I would run the A/V program on this system and direct it to
scan the slave drive. The new system would undoubtedly have more
complete virus definitions and if there was a virus is more likely to
detect and remove it.
That being said, your symptoms sound an awful lot like a HD about to fail.
current system. Just pick up a cheap hard drive somewhere (I have a
525 MB you can HAVE) and reinstall DOS on it. Boot to that drive, with
your old drive mounted as the secondary drive. This way your old drive
will be recognized as the D: drive.
Once you're booted up to the new C: drive, you can examine the old
drive and see if you can read it. If you can, you'd better copy
everything to the C: drive right away.
If you have a newer computer you could certainly install this disk in
it, as a secondary drive and use any more modern OS to try to read and
copy the old drive contents. You can certainly check for viruses this
way, but it sounds like this is a much less likely senario than just a
failing hard drive.
-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
R
Roy and Rosa
Guest
kenmore elite mod. 110.63952100
control board 3978954
"Roy and Rosa" <rbeaty@grandecom.net> wrote in message
news:10ksfv4evts17c0@corp.supernews.com...
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.778 / Virus Database: 525 - Release Date: 10/15/2004
control board 3978954
"Roy and Rosa" <rbeaty@grandecom.net> wrote in message
news:10ksfv4evts17c0@corp.supernews.com...
Has anyone diagnosed the problem with the ETC on a kenmore dryer? (dryer
runs when start button is pressed but stops when button is released) I'm
on
my third board in 3 years. I would like to repair the board. Have
checked
all items on component side of board but not on surface mount side.
Thanks Roy
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.778 / Virus Database: 525 - Release Date: 10/15/2004
N
NeslihYor
Guest
Hello!
Did you manage to get hold of the Instruction Manual?
I've just purchased a DLX10, but I'm also missing the manual! Do you have
this ad pdf-file? and if you can send it to me by email?
roy.grondahl@sigurd-sorum.no ... and I'll be happy. PS: Remote Control <-
Do you know how I can get one, e.g. suppliers? Have a good Day. Regards
Neslih Yor
Did you manage to get hold of the Instruction Manual?
I've just purchased a DLX10, but I'm also missing the manual! Do you have
this ad pdf-file? and if you can send it to me by email?
roy.grondahl@sigurd-sorum.no ... and I'll be happy. PS: Remote Control <-
Do you know how I can get one, e.g. suppliers? Have a good Day. Regards
Neslih Yor
B
Bob Urz
Guest
Sidney wrote:
that could help. That's assuming its a mitsu OEM'ed unit.
Bob
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
If your a dealer, Mitsubishi OEM in plymouth , MI are probably the ones1998 Dodge Grand Caravan with the AM/FM/TAPE/CD INFINITY stereo system
needs a volume control switch as it is physically broken,the customer
has not yet brought it in,does anyone know the manufacturer and part #
of that switch (volume pot)?.Thanks in advance.
Sidney
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/May02/May18.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/SonyAudMod.html
http://www.newark.com/product-details/image/mcm/image/32-9495.jpg
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Oct02/Oct028.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Oct02/Oct029.html
http://www.iwaynet.net/~nesda/Oct04/Oct041.html
http://www.techsite.info/forum/
that could help. That's assuming its a mitsu OEM'ed unit.
Bob
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
D
David Maynard
Guest
Chip wrote:
I had only seen a 'review' by a less than satisfied customer and it gave me
the impression the 'real' power wasn't on the sticker.
Ah. I went back and found the message. The site with the review was:
http://www.casetech.co.uk/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/50/products_id/231
But I can't get it to connect right now (server times out).
The PSU the original poster (with startup problems) had was a Q-Tec 400W
Dual Fan Gold.
http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm?artnr=13023&specs=1
The 'reviewer' claimed to have asked for, and received, specifications from
Q-Tec and described it like:
Total "Real" power output [W] 300 (not 400)
Output current +5V [A] 25A (Sticker 30A)
Output current +12V [A] 12A (Sticker 16A)
Output current -5V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current -12V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current +3.3V [A] 14A (Sticker 20A)
Output current +5V STB [A] 1,5A (Sticker 2,0A)
Maximal total power for 3.3 and 5 combined [Watt] 150 W (Sticker 180W)
That gave me the impression only the 'sticker' number was on the sticker.
Or maybe that's the case for the 400 watt dual fan gold and the other one
has both listed.
No problem."David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10n6m0k8c5h3b50@corp.supernews.com...
Chip wrote:
"David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10n3k1osh82u7f3@corp.supernews.com...
Chip wrote:
"David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10n294b89g4ph62@corp.supernews.com...
Franklin wrote:
"Qtec" - for example - are a very popular low-end
brand. You might refer to them as a no-name, but arguably they
are one step up from that. They produce a very popular 550w
PSU.
The first thing to note is that by 550w, they mean *Peak*. Which
basically means nothing at all.
On 15 Oct 2004, larrymoencurly wrote:
I didn't believe it until I visited their website. This has got
to be the first time that a company has admitted that its most
prominently advertised power rating was for peak power.
Does anyone have any 'real' specs for this PSU? You know what I mean,
the normal sort of data in a chart. I can't find any at their
website. I am overlooking a small but significant link?
I never found anything 'real' on their site either. The only thing I
came up with earlier (but don't have handy) was a customer 'review' on
a site selling them and he claimed to have received an email from them,
and posted the data. The best recollection I have is that the 'real'
numbers were 20 to 40% less, depending on the power rail, than the amps
put on the sticker.
I found this:
http://www.bit-tech.net/images/review/123/5.jpg
Ah. So they put both on the label. ok.
"OK"? Well sort of. The idea that you have a "550W" PSU with a maximum
12V supply of 14A I would say is "sharp practise" at best, and fraud at
worst.
Chip
I didn't mean it was an 'OK' practice. I was acknowledging the correction
to my (mis)understanding that the real amps were less than what was on the
sticker.
Oh I see. Sorry for the misunderstanding!
I had only seen a 'review' by a less than satisfied customer and it gave me
the impression the 'real' power wasn't on the sticker.
Ah. I went back and found the message. The site with the review was:
http://www.casetech.co.uk/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/50/products_id/231
But I can't get it to connect right now (server times out).
The PSU the original poster (with startup problems) had was a Q-Tec 400W
Dual Fan Gold.
http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm?artnr=13023&specs=1
The 'reviewer' claimed to have asked for, and received, specifications from
Q-Tec and described it like:
Total "Real" power output [W] 300 (not 400)
Output current +5V [A] 25A (Sticker 30A)
Output current +12V [A] 12A (Sticker 16A)
Output current -5V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current -12V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current +3.3V [A] 14A (Sticker 20A)
Output current +5V STB [A] 1,5A (Sticker 2,0A)
Maximal total power for 3.3 and 5 combined [Watt] 150 W (Sticker 180W)
That gave me the impression only the 'sticker' number was on the sticker.
Or maybe that's the case for the 400 watt dual fan gold and the other one
has both listed.
K
kony
Guest
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 09:18:22 -0500, David Maynard
<dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote:
pathetic for a 400W PSU. Well, I guess you can't have it
BOTH ways, better to have a small lie on the sticker than a
larger one.
<dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote:
The sad thing is that even based on the sticker it'sI had only seen a 'review' by a less than satisfied customer and it gave me
the impression the 'real' power wasn't on the sticker.
Ah. I went back and found the message. The site with the review was:
http://www.casetech.co.uk/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/50/products_id/231
But I can't get it to connect right now (server times out).
The PSU the original poster (with startup problems) had was a Q-Tec 400W
Dual Fan Gold.
http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm?artnr=13023&specs=1
The 'reviewer' claimed to have asked for, and received, specifications from
Q-Tec and described it like:
Total "Real" power output [W] 300 (not 400)
Output current +5V [A] 25A (Sticker 30A)
Output current +12V [A] 12A (Sticker 16A)
Output current -5V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current -12V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current +3.3V [A] 14A (Sticker 20A)
Output current +5V STB [A] 1,5A (Sticker 2,0A)
Maximal total power for 3.3 and 5 combined [Watt] 150 W (Sticker 180W)
That gave me the impression only the 'sticker' number was on the sticker.
Or maybe that's the case for the 400 watt dual fan gold and the other one
has both listed.
pathetic for a 400W PSU. Well, I guess you can't have it
BOTH ways, better to have a small lie on the sticker than a
larger one.
D
Dbowey
Guest
Lenny posted:
(BIG snip)
I'm not familiar with the term "doublespaced" drives. Is that like a two-HD
RAID set to mirror so that each drive stores identical info?
I recently did battle with a Windows system that used mirroring. One HD was
corrupting data. I broke the RAID, disconnected the bad one and booted from a
CD to read the data from the good drive (it wasn't bootable).
If that is what's going on with yours, you should be able to do essentially the
same in DOS. You can probably pick up a usable, 40Meg drive for nearly $free,
and do a disc copy to mirror the good drive.
Good luck
Don
(BIG snip)
I'm not familiar with the term "doublespaced" drives. Is that like a two-HD
RAID set to mirror so that each drive stores identical info?
I recently did battle with a Windows system that used mirroring. One HD was
corrupting data. I broke the RAID, disconnected the bad one and booted from a
CD to read the data from the good drive (it wasn't bootable).
If that is what's going on with yours, you should be able to do essentially the
same in DOS. You can probably pick up a usable, 40Meg drive for nearly $free,
and do a disc copy to mirror the good drive.
Good luck
Don
G
George Jetson
Guest
"Dbowey" <dbowey@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041018131937.25170.00002521@mb-m04.aol.com...
The drivers dblspace.sys and dblspace.bin are located on the c: root and
allow access to a compresssed HIDDEN file that is essentially a big random
access zip file. Any attemp to copy individual files will need to boot up
with these drivers and dos 6.2x as the compression was proprietary. You
will most likely not get the compressed files intact so I would try to boot
with a floppy with correct drivers and copy to temporary harddrive.
All disk compression/encryption/multipartition technologies add a dangerous
level of complexity with respect to data recovery. I avoid all these
innovations to this day, fool me once...
---
They can have my command prompt when they pry it from my cold dead fingers.
news:20041018131937.25170.00002521@mb-m04.aol.com...
Lenny posted:
(BIG snip)
I'm not familiar with the term "doublespaced" drives. Is that like a
two-HD
RAID set to mirror so that each drive stores identical info?
I recently did battle with a Windows system that used mirroring. One HD
was
corrupting data. I broke the RAID, disconnected the bad one and booted
from a
CD to read the data from the good drive (it wasn't bootable).
If that is what's going on with yours, you should be able to do
essentially the
same in DOS. You can probably pick up a usable, 40Meg drive for nearly
$free,
and do a disc copy to mirror the good drive.
Good luck
Don
The drivers dblspace.sys and dblspace.bin are located on the c: root and
allow access to a compresssed HIDDEN file that is essentially a big random
access zip file. Any attemp to copy individual files will need to boot up
with these drivers and dos 6.2x as the compression was proprietary. You
will most likely not get the compressed files intact so I would try to boot
with a floppy with correct drivers and copy to temporary harddrive.
All disk compression/encryption/multipartition technologies add a dangerous
level of complexity with respect to data recovery. I avoid all these
innovations to this day, fool me once...
---
They can have my command prompt when they pry it from my cold dead fingers.
W
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su
Guest
"David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10n7k5pkh35j0a3@corp.supernews.com...
[snip]
and 7912 regulator chips, and they usually have no heatsink and are just
sticking up from the PCB supported by their three legs. So they have
littls dissipation capability. So the designers rate them for a half
amp, altho they are capable of handling a full amp with a decent
heatsink. So this is a 'design compromise' I guess you'd say. But on
occasion I have seen them with a small heatsink attached.
If you look inside of a PS for a server, and then look inside a consumer
grade PS, you will immediately get the picture of where they make
'design compromises' in the consumer PS. The server PS will have big
heavy extruded aluminum heatsinks, and the consumer PS will have a sheet
of tinned steel instead. And the server will not skimp on the cooling
fans like the consumer PSes do.
news:10n7k5pkh35j0a3@corp.supernews.com...
[snip]
id/231No problem.
I had only seen a 'review' by a less than satisfied customer and it
gave me
the impression the 'real' power wasn't on the sticker.
Ah. I went back and found the message. The site with the review was:
http://www.casetech.co.uk/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/50/products_
The -5V and -12V regulators on most of the PS boards I've seen are 7905But I can't get it to connect right now (server times out).
The PSU the original poster (with startup problems) had was a Q-Tec
400W
Dual Fan Gold.
http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm?artnr=13023&specs=1
The 'reviewer' claimed to have asked for, and received, specifications
from
Q-Tec and described it like:
Total "Real" power output [W] 300 (not 400)
Output current +5V [A] 25A (Sticker 30A)
Output current +12V [A] 12A (Sticker 16A)
Output current -5V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current -12V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
and 7912 regulator chips, and they usually have no heatsink and are just
sticking up from the PCB supported by their three legs. So they have
littls dissipation capability. So the designers rate them for a half
amp, altho they are capable of handling a full amp with a decent
heatsink. So this is a 'design compromise' I guess you'd say. But on
occasion I have seen them with a small heatsink attached.
If you look inside of a PS for a server, and then look inside a consumer
grade PS, you will immediately get the picture of where they make
'design compromises' in the consumer PS. The server PS will have big
heavy extruded aluminum heatsinks, and the consumer PS will have a sheet
of tinned steel instead. And the server will not skimp on the cooling
fans like the consumer PSes do.
14A (Sticker 20A)
Output current +5V STB [A] 1,5A (Sticker 2,0A)
Maximal total power for 3.3 and 5 combined [Watt] 150 W (Sticker 180W)
That gave me the impression only the 'sticker' number was on the
sticker.
Or maybe that's the case for the 400 watt dual fan gold and the other
one
has both listed.
H
Henry Markov
Guest
A few things occurred to me immediately after posting. You may not have enough
memory to run XP (although BartPE is a reduced XP) and XP may not run on a 386.
It's possible that you would have neither restriction with Knoppix (Linux).
Henry Markov wrote:
memory to run XP (although BartPE is a reduced XP) and XP may not run on a 386.
It's possible that you would have neither restriction with Knoppix (Linux).
Henry Markov wrote:
It's been a while since I've dealt with DOS but here's my idea. I would guess
that you can't run your programs properly when booting from floppy because you
need both the DblSpace drivers to access your HD files and you need a LoadHigh
type capability to put some of your drivers and other DOS components into the
640-1000K region in order to free enough of the base 640K for your
applications. You should be able to configure a config.sys and autoexec.bat on
your floppy boot disk to accomplish both. Of course you will also need to have
the Dbl drivers and QEMM components on your boot floppy. If you configure the
floppy properly there is no reason that you cannot create the same run time
environment that enables your programs to run when you boot from a HD.
For an entirely different approach take a look at BartPE and/or Knoppix which
you can find easily by googling. These are Windows XP and Linux systems
respectively that boot entirely from a CD. Assuming you either have or are
willing and able to install a CD drive and network card in your machine you
should be able to boot these systems and then you would have a networked
computer from which you could transmit your files. If your 386/25 only has ISA
slots and you have no compatible network card, I have some old 3COM cards that
would work. If you wish to communicate by mail, reverse all the letters in the
user name part of my email address.
Roger
Lenny wrote:
snip
It uses Qemm ... "Optimize"
. <snip
I would rather just get it to boot normally one more time and then do
some kind of a complete transfer. If anyone has any suggestions about
this I would be extemely grateful. Whew, I miss carbon paper. It never
crashed... Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
J
john
Guest
If its got the MTT module remove it remove the covers
and resolder the bad connections usually where the
module has the sockets for the plugs to attach.
kip
and resolder the bad connections usually where the
module has the sockets for the plugs to attach.
kip
T
Tom MacIntyre
Guest
On 17 Oct 2004 08:10:21 -0700, captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny)
wrote:
external degaussing coil, on a few floppies, and they were very
resilient.
Tom
wrote:
Have you had luck with a magnetron magnet? I tried that, and anWell we have alot of old floppies floating around here that have
questionable data on them. They get plugged into machines sometimes
and its entirely conceivable that some unknown stuff could be spread
around this way. Whether a Windows based virus would affect a Dos
machine, I don't know but I suppose anything is possible. I don't want
to take the magnetron magnet to them until I know whats on them. And
if I could scan them first that would be great. Lenny.
external degaussing coil, on a few floppies, and they were very
resilient.
Tom
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<RYncd.5464$232.2958@trnddc09>...
"Lenny" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d980bc2c.0410162141.d0e4e73@posting.google.com...
I'm running a 386/25 with Dos 6.2 for billing. Recently it has been
having problems with bad sectors on the drive showing, and refusing to
boot unless you boot off a floppy and do a sys c: from the A drive.
Now it will not boot from the hard drive at all. Luckily I copied my
customer files before this happened. But there is alot of other stuff
I would like to get off it. To rule out a virus problem is there an up
to date scan program I can get that will run from a floppy on a Dos
machine? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
How would a virus get on the machine in the first place? Obviously it's not
on the internet, and if it's just for billing it seems unlikely contaminated
disks would get in there.
T
Tom MacIntyre
Guest
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:34:32 -0400, Henry Markov <jnhblhr@yahoo.com>
wrote:
Tom
wrote:
You're lucky to run 95 on a 386, especially an SX.A few things occurred to me immediately after posting. You may not have enough
memory to run XP (although BartPE is a reduced XP) and XP may not run on a 386.
It's possible that you would have neither restriction with Knoppix (Linux).
Tom
Henry Markov wrote:
It's been a while since I've dealt with DOS but here's my idea. I would guess
that you can't run your programs properly when booting from floppy because you
need both the DblSpace drivers to access your HD files and you need a LoadHigh
type capability to put some of your drivers and other DOS components into the
640-1000K region in order to free enough of the base 640K for your
applications. You should be able to configure a config.sys and autoexec.bat on
your floppy boot disk to accomplish both. Of course you will also need to have
the Dbl drivers and QEMM components on your boot floppy. If you configure the
floppy properly there is no reason that you cannot create the same run time
environment that enables your programs to run when you boot from a HD.
For an entirely different approach take a look at BartPE and/or Knoppix which
you can find easily by googling. These are Windows XP and Linux systems
respectively that boot entirely from a CD. Assuming you either have or are
willing and able to install a CD drive and network card in your machine you
should be able to boot these systems and then you would have a networked
computer from which you could transmit your files. If your 386/25 only has ISA
slots and you have no compatible network card, I have some old 3COM cards that
would work. If you wish to communicate by mail, reverse all the letters in the
user name part of my email address.
Roger
Lenny wrote:
snip
It uses Qemm ... "Optimize"
. <snip
I would rather just get it to boot normally one more time and then do
some kind of a complete transfer. If anyone has any suggestions about
this I would be extemely grateful. Whew, I miss carbon paper. It never
crashed... Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
T
Tom MacIntyre
Guest
On 18 Oct 2004 13:02:08 -0700, pierre.genest@ualberta.ca (Pierre G)
wrote:
for a Set (?) button (or similar) on the front of the TV. Push it for
each channel selected. Just a memory of mine; may not be correct.
Tom
wrote:
It may have to be programmed...manually. Select each channel, and lookI have an RCA CTC133B with a strange problem. The tuner on the set
(front of unit) is not responding to go UP or DOWN (same with remote).
I have to "enter" the channel manually by selecting the numbers such
as entering 2 and 3 for channel 23. It is not possible to enter these
numbers on the remote. The set also turns itself off on its own. (The
volume control also doesn't always work from the remote.) This
behavior is intermittent. Is this caused by the "tuner module" or
somewhere else? Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
for a Set (?) button (or similar) on the front of the TV. Push it for
each channel selected. Just a memory of mine; may not be correct.
Tom
N
NSM
Guest
"Lenny" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d980bc2c.0410180823.2da9a1d3@posting.google.com...
| This post is partly a message which I posted the other day, however
| now the problem has gotten more serious.
....
| be ready to transfer everything on it to another drive. Is it possible
| to do some kind of a transfer perhaps through the parallel port to a
| Windows 2000 machine....
Maybe LapLink?
N
news:d980bc2c.0410180823.2da9a1d3@posting.google.com...
| This post is partly a message which I posted the other day, however
| now the problem has gotten more serious.
....
| be ready to transfer everything on it to another drive. Is it possible
| to do some kind of a transfer perhaps through the parallel port to a
| Windows 2000 machine....
Maybe LapLink?
N