Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[none]

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 22:20:30 +0100, "Christo" <chris@juststuff.co.uk>
wrote:

i know very little about pwer, but from what i know a 350w will be ok, a
decent one though, i have a cheap one and i keep getting IRQL errors, im not
sure if they are related to the PSU or memory, but someone at uni has told
me a 400w PSU is reccomended with all AMD Athlon XP's

Correct. And that is the lowest one should use.

I do video/film editing on Athalons and anything lower than 400 will
give you constant locks and blue screens.
The inrush and overcurrent ratings are critical too.
At least 30 on the 5v and 25 on the 12v is required.
You can NEVER have to much power.
A good trick is to split the load between multiple psu, does require a
bit of moding though.

 

[Matt]

none wrote:

With that many Hd's I'd be thinking about dedicating one good psu to
the motherboard and the optical drives/floppy and using separate
supplies for alll those Hd's.(maybe 2 drives to a psu rated at at
least 350-400 watts.)

That way he could avoid about a half hour's mental work.

Except he would have to figure how to rig a computer using four power
supplies instead of one.

 

[Matt]

none wrote:

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 22:20:30 +0100, "Christo" <chris@juststuff.co.uk
wrote:


i know very little about pwer, but from what i know a 350w will be ok, a
decent one though, i have a cheap one and i keep getting IRQL errors, im not
sure if they are related to the PSU or memory, but someone at uni has told
me a 400w PSU is reccomended with all AMD Athlon XP's


Correct. And that is the lowest one should use.

Please provide a pointer to that recommendation on AMD's website.

I do video/film editing on Athalons and anything lower than 400 will
give you constant locks and blue screens.
The inrush and overcurrent ratings are critical too.
At least 30 on the 5v and 25 on the 12v is required.
You can NEVER have to much power.
A good trick is to split the load between multiple psu, does require a
bit of moding though.

 

On 11 Oct 2004 12:53:15 -0400, Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu>
wrote:

...
Building a curve tracer to demonstrate the principle of a curve tracer is
easy and quick. Building one that is actually a useful test instrument
is a lot more difficult and time consuming.

Let's have a show of hands.... How many really find a curve tracer to be
a piece of test equipment you use regularly and would dearly miss if you
didn't have one.

I remember the first time I used a curve tracer at work. Took me a
long time to realize that little line running out past 12 volts was
the whole show.

Later on, I got cheap kicks watching the temps scratching their heads
after hours of sitting in front of the Tek with the ludicrous
operation manual open next to them.

 

[kony]

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 01:53:07 -0500, none
<gothika@bellsouth.net> wrote:

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 21:23:10 GMT, Al Smith <invalid@address.com
wrote:

Would a decent 350W PSU be enough? I am thinking of this Nexus PSU.
http://www.nexustek.nl/nx3500.htm The specification chart shows
current delivery at min load, normal load, max load:

+3.3V 0.3A 14.0A 21.2/28A
+5V 1.0A 12.7A 30/25.5A
+12V 0.2A 4.5A 16A

(1) +3.3V & +5V total output not exceed 220Watt.
(1a) When +3.3V is loaded to 28A, then the +5V maximum load is 25.5A.
(1b) When +3.3V is loaded to 21.2A, the +5V maximum load is 30A.
(2) +3.3V & +5V & +12V total output not exceed 330Watt.

---

Is this any good for my needs?


With 6 drives I'd go with a larger power supply, get at least a 450W
supply or even larger. An Antec 550W supply is only $108. You don't want
to waste your time hunting down system glitches because you saved 30 bucks
on a power supply.


You don't want to waste $30 for nothing, either.

Yes you do. The lowest rated supply I use for Athalon systems is 400
watts, and that is only with one HD.
Anymore and I go with a 500 watt.
Believe me if you really try and do any serious computing loads with
an under rated power supply you're asking for serious migraines.

It's true that an insufficient power supply can cause both
instability and eventual damage, but the typical Athlon
system does not need 400W, and there is almost no "PC"
system that needs 500W, even if the vast majority of the
current were concentrated on only the 5V or 12V rail.

With a typical PC, that being current-gen CPU, a couple hard
drives, budget/low-end video card, etc, 300W PSU in a good
name brand is sufficient. SFF systems demonstrate every day
that even a 180-250W PSU will run a modern built with enough
margin for another hard drive or two... but the PSU may need
replaced sooner.

Generics on the other hand, are a lottery. Their wattage
rating means almost nothing, they can only be assumed to be
somewhere inbetween 200W and 400W without further evidence.

 

[kony]

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 01:57:34 -0500, none
<gothika@bellsouth.net> wrote:

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 22:20:30 +0100, "Christo" <chris@juststuff.co.uk
wrote:

i know very little about pwer, but from what i know a 350w will be ok, a
decent one though, i have a cheap one and i keep getting IRQL errors, im not
sure if they are related to the PSU or memory, but someone at uni has told
me a 400w PSU is reccomended with all AMD Athlon XP's

Correct. And that is the lowest one should use.
I do video/film editing on Athalons and anything lower than 400 will
give you constant locks and blue screens.
The inrush and overcurrent ratings are critical too.
At least 30 on the 5v and 25 on the 12v is required.
You can NEVER have to much power.
A good trick is to split the load between multiple psu, does require a
bit of moding though.

Not true. I also have done quite a bit of video editing and
other full loads for extended periods of time and am quite
sure that 30A on 5V is not needed if CPU doesn't use 5V for
VRM circuit, and that even if CPU uses 12V for VRM circuit,
it will not need 25A. If you had instability you either
have very atypically high load beyond what was mentioned, or
very poor power supplies.... like generics that are quite
overrated.

 

[Chip]

"larrymoencurly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:755e968a.0410121254.487a0a0c@posting.google.com...

"Franklin" <no_thanks@mail.com> wrote in message
news:958099B49C7BC71F3M4@130.133.1.4...

What rating PSU should I use on a system which has an Athlon 2400+
with a modest graphics card (old GeForce2 MX 32MB) and 768 MB of SD-
RAM. Unusually, it will have *SIX* IDE internal hard drives.

All the rest of the system is pretty normal with no overclocking on
the cpu.

Would a decent 350W PSU be enough? I am thinking of this Nexus PSU.
http://www.nexustek.nl/nx3500.htm

Nexus is made by Fortron-Source, one of the best PSU makers in the
world, but I don't know if the 16A @ +12V is enough for all that
hardware. One person found that his XP1800+ system with five HDs
(RPM unknown) and a couple of CD drives consumed only 160W from the AC
lines, meaning that the computer was taking about 120W. And in 2002
C'T magazine measured several computers equipped with XP2400+ CPUs,
256M DDR, and GeForce3/Ti500 graphics cards and found that it took
about 9A @ +12V, 2-4A @ +5V, and 9-12A @ +3.3V.

The problems tend to be under peak load, especially at cold boot. At cold
boot, when all the disks are spinning up for the first time, likewise the
fans, likewise the CPU initialising, the peak current required can be much
higher. And then you find problems like perhaps your soundcard doesn't
always initialise properly (which used to happen to me with an old Enermax
350w PSU).

Chip

 

[Norm Dresner]

"trippin28track" <trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e5b393c3.0410121505.5049ce3a@posting.google.com...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4043207138&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

interesting lot of pop/rock/heavy metal/etc. cassette tapes

Yeah, I can see why you'd think your stereo needed repair after playing that
stuff

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"General Schvantzkoph" <schvantzkoph@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsan.2004.10.12.16.41.25.775421@yahoo.com...

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 15:06:35 +0100, Franklin wrote:

What rating PSU should I use on a system which has an Athlon 2400+
with a modest graphics card (old GeForce2 MX 32MB) and 768 MB of SD-
RAM. Unusually, it will have *SIX* IDE internal hard drives.

All the rest of the system is pretty normal with no overclocking on
the cpu.

Would a decent 350W PSU be enough? I am thinking of this Nexus PSU.
http://www.nexustek.nl/nx3500.htm The specification chart shows
current delivery at min load, normal load, max load:

+3.3V 0.3A 14.0A 21.2/28A
+5V 1.0A 12.7A 30/25.5A
+12V 0.2A 4.5A 16A

(1) +3.3V & +5V total output not exceed 220Watt.
(1a) When +3.3V is loaded to 28A, then the +5V maximum load is
25.5A.
(1b) When +3.3V is loaded to 21.2A, the +5V maximum load is 30A.
(2) +3.3V & +5V & +12V total output not exceed 330Watt.

---

Is this any good for my needs?

With 6 drives I'd go with a larger power supply, get at least a 450W
supply or even larger. An Antec 550W supply is only $108. You don't
want
to waste your time hunting down system glitches because you saved 30
bucks
on a power supply.

The wattage is important, but int his case, the +12V is more important
because of the very high +12V current needed to start up the hard disks.
Someone else mentioned 2A per HDD at atartup but there are also other
+12V loads, such as the fans. So getting a PSU that has a lot higher
than usual +12V current rating is a _must_.

One other important thing. Putting 6 hard disks in a case demands that
there be a lot of air circulating around them. If you don't keep thenm
cool, then the ones closest to the middle of the stack will overheat and
die. I've seen that happen in servers. You might consider using
external HDDs if you have problems.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"rstlne" <.@text.news.virgin.net> wrote in message
news:0EVad.1414$cm4.260@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...

You really can't have too much, but you can have too little.

When it comes to power supplies, I would just get a good name - like
Antec
True Power, around 430 watt to be safe.

Heh..
I dunno
Climb a highline pole and put a 5v light across the 15kv lines ;P

Brilliant!!

 

[David Maynard]

Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover" wrote:

"rstlne" <.@text.news.virgin.net> wrote in message
news:0EVad.1414$cm4.260@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...

You really can't have too much, but you can have too little.

When it comes to power supplies, I would just get a good name - like

Antec

True Power, around 430 watt to be safe.

Heh..
I dunno
Climb a highline pole and put a 5v light across the 15kv lines ;P


Brilliant!!

Briefly

 

[General Schvantzkoph]

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 07:55:14 +0000, kony wrote:

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 01:53:07 -0500, none
gothika@bellsouth.net> wrote:

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 21:23:10 GMT, Al Smith <invalid@address.com
wrote:

Would a decent 350W PSU be enough? I am thinking of this Nexus PSU.
http://www.nexustek.nl/nx3500.htm The specification chart shows
current delivery at min load, normal load, max load:

+3.3V 0.3A 14.0A 21.2/28A
+5V 1.0A 12.7A 30/25.5A
+12V 0.2A 4.5A 16A

(1) +3.3V & +5V total output not exceed 220Watt.
(1a) When +3.3V is loaded to 28A, then the +5V maximum load is 25.5A.
(1b) When +3.3V is loaded to 21.2A, the +5V maximum load is 30A.
(2) +3.3V & +5V & +12V total output not exceed 330Watt.

---

Is this any good for my needs?


With 6 drives I'd go with a larger power supply, get at least a 450W
supply or even larger. An Antec 550W supply is only $108. You don't want
to waste your time hunting down system glitches because you saved 30 bucks
on a power supply.


You don't want to waste $30 for nothing, either.

Yes you do. The lowest rated supply I use for Athalon systems is 400
watts, and that is only with one HD.
Anymore and I go with a 500 watt.
Believe me if you really try and do any serious computing loads with
an under rated power supply you're asking for serious migraines.


It's true that an insufficient power supply can cause both
instability and eventual damage, but the typical Athlon
system does not need 400W, and there is almost no "PC"
system that needs 500W, even if the vast majority of the
current were concentrated on only the 5V or 12V rail.

With a typical PC, that being current-gen CPU, a couple hard
drives, budget/low-end video card, etc, 300W PSU in a good
name brand is sufficient. SFF systems demonstrate every day
that even a 180-250W PSU will run a modern built with enough
margin for another hard drive or two... but the PSU may need
replaced sooner.

Generics on the other hand, are a lottery. Their wattage
rating means almost nothing, they can only be assumed to be
somewhere inbetween 200W and 400W without further evidence.

The OP seems to be talking about a file server not a desktop PC. It's
hard to imagine why you would need 6 drives on a desktop. The disks are
going to be working much harder in a file server then they would be in a
PC. The symptom of a power supply problem on a file server is that a disk
suddenly drops off line, they system continues to run but you've lost that
drive until you do a reboot. It's very annoying. It's much better to spend
a few more dollars to get a robust supply. There will be $1000 worth of
drives in that system, it's silly to worry about 30 or 40 bucks extra for
a 550W supply vs a 350W.

 

[General Schvantzkoph]

One other important thing. Putting 6 hard disks in a case demands that
there be a lot of air circulating around them. If you don't keep thenm
cool, then the ones closest to the middle of the stack will overheat and
die. I've seen that happen in servers. You might consider using
external HDDs if you have problems.

You solve the problem by getting a server case that's designed to handle a
large number of drives. You want a case that has good air flow over all of
the drives. It's OK to passively cool a single drive in a desktop machine
because desktop drives have very little activity. In a fileserver the
drives work much harder so you need to blow air over them to keep them
cool.

 

[Shawn D'Alimonte]

Chris wrote:

The new power supply -12V line value is from -12.85V to -13.05V.
The Hardware Doctor software sets the lower limit for -12V line
to -13.01V, it often sends warning that the -12V line
is out of limit. Is the -12V line's value too high?
Should I try another new power supply?

Does anything use -12V theses days? Even RS232 transceivers tend to
have charge pumps and make their own power from 5V. The -12V output is
probably not well regulated in the supply because it doesn't really have
to be.

BTW One cheap AT supply I turned into a bench power supply didn't even
have a current limit on the -12V line. A short blew every semiconductor
from the -12V output back to the line fuse.


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 01:45:38 -0500, none <gothika@bellsouth.net>
wrote:

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 23:05:23 GMT, "DaveW" <none@zero.org> wrote:

Hmmm ... I think you should more seriously be thinking about an Antec 550
Watt True Power supply.

With that many Hd's I'd be thinking about dedicating one good psu to
the motherboard and the optical drives/floppy and using separate
supplies for alll those Hd's.(maybe 2 drives to a psu rated at at
least 350-400 watts.)
Depends on what type of computing you'll doing and how intensive too.

I forget, but do the drives use both +5 and +12, and, if so, will this
arrangement be enough to regulate a supply?

Tom

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Soren Kuula <dongfang-remove_this@remove_this-bitplanet.net> writes:

Chris wrote:
I have a Pentium III PC, it has an Abit SA6R mobo.
The old power supply (250W) was bad, the PC wouldn't
switch on instantly until after some uncertain warm up period.
I bought this new power supply (300W) to replace
the old one. Now it switches on instantly. But the PC
still resets itself for no reason during cold boot.
However, once it's warm up, it runs fine.
Is the mobo or the CPU also bad?
The new power supply -12V line value is from -12.85V to -13.05V.
The Hardware Doctor software sets the lower limit for -12V line
to -13.01V, it often sends warning that the -12V line
is out of limit. Is the -12V line's value too high?
Should I try another new power supply?

If the MB showed the same symptoms on two different PSUs then the
fault is probably somewhere else.

You may want to measure the -12v line with a decent voltmeter, just to
make sure.

If it were my machine, I would try to strip it down to the simplest
possible configuration (sound cards, NICs, USB cards, CD drives, all
but one hard disk and one RAM block .. out), then see if symptoms are
still there. If still there, try a different RAM block. If still
there, downclock (well you might as well begin with that, thinking of
it..). If nothing helps, suspect MoBo or CPU.

The -12 VDC is not likely to be the cause of problems.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[Chip]

"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
newsunqm0ht6vikt57vqnc1hj0nu1gniqqa8j@4ax.com...

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 01:45:38 -0500, none <gothika@bellsouth.net
wrote:

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 23:05:23 GMT, "DaveW" <none@zero.org> wrote:

Hmmm ... I think you should more seriously be thinking about an Antec 550
Watt True Power supply.

With that many Hd's I'd be thinking about dedicating one good psu to
the motherboard and the optical drives/floppy and using separate
supplies for alll those Hd's.(maybe 2 drives to a psu rated at at
least 350-400 watts.)
Depends on what type of computing you'll doing and how intensive too.

I forget, but do the drives use both +5 and +12,

Yes.

and, if so, will this
arrangement be enough to regulate a supply?

I don't know what you mean by that.

Chip

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On 13 Oct 2004 09:34:09 -0700, dbacks@attglobal.net (Marc) wrote:

OK, I know that some of you electronics gurus are holding your sides
from laughing at a newbie, but here goes another request for info...

I need information on the color adjustment for a Sony KV-1952RS.

There are seven adjustments located on the "card" on the back of the
monitor, as well as several other adjustments on the main board.

Is there some sort of sequence or procedure, in setting the background
colors? or ???

Any suggestions?

Possibly a url

Or ???

Again, any help is greatly appreciated,

Thanks,

Marc

http://www.repairfaq.org

likely has something. Make sure you read the safety stuff if you
insist on going inside, because the adjustments are made while the set
is on. If the control allows it, use a non-conductive tool. If you
have a friend who is comfortable around electronic devices, maybe
enlist their help. At least have another person present, as one of the
voltages present is in the 150-200 VDC range. Typically, though, it is
inadvisable to go inside a live television without an isolation
transformer.

The simple answer is that you'll want to have your contrast,
brightness, and some other settings adjusted "optimally" first, and a
trained technician may be required for that, but in general aim for a
vivid, not too bright, and not washed-out picture. Other than that,
and it's been awhile...

You need a B&W test pattern or picture (you may possibly achieve this
by turning the main colour control down, but some sets don't get to
perfect B&W this way). The basic premise is that a B&W picture should
not have any colour tinge. The 3 colours are red (R), green (G), and
blue (B). Too much of any one and you subtract that colour, turn it
down. Not enough red and you get a bluish-green/lightish blue (called
cyan) tinge. Not enough green and it's a purple (called magenta)
tinge. Not enough blue and the tinge is yellow. Typically what I used
to do is add the "not-enough" colour to take care of these three
tinges. Sometimes you may need to add a little of more than one, or
add one then subtract another, but you shouldn't need to adjust all 3
colours, at least in many cases. (More on the controls to follow.) The
finished picture will be bright but not too bright in the brightest
areas, and the darkest areas will be barely visible.

There will be 5 or 6 colour controls, 1 or 2 for each colour. One set
adjusts the brighter areas of the 3 colours, and the other set adjusts
the darker areas. If there are only 5 controls in total, then one
colour's darker (I think) areas are preset, and the other 2 controls
with the same name (drive, bias, screen, etc) are used to achieve the
uniform grayscale/B&W picture at that brightness range. The other 3
controls are used to achieve a balanced B&W piture at the other end of
the brightness scale. Remember, you are some of the time going to be
adding a colour to negate the tinge and some of the time subtracting,
so sometimes you'll need to adjust one up and one back to achieve the
proper grayscale. Once you're satisfied, turn the colour back up a bit
higher than normal, adjust the tint to taste, and set the colour to
normal again.

Good luck.

Tom

 

[Sofie]

Marc:
You should go to the website for this newsgroup at
http://www.repairfaq.org/
There, with some searching, you will find information about CRT gray scale
alignment and color gun balance. Lots of other good info on that site.....
spending time there will be well worth your effort.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Marc" <dbacks@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:20e8027b.0410130834.68808416@posting.google.com...

OK, I know that some of you electronics gurus are holding your sides
from laughing at a newbie, but here goes another request for info...

I need information on the color adjustment for a Sony KV-1952RS.

There are seven adjustments located on the "card" on the back of the
monitor, as well as several other adjustments on the main board.

Is there some sort of sequence or procedure, in setting the background
colors? or ???

Any suggestions?

Possibly a url

Or ???

Again, any help is greatly appreciated,

Thanks,

Marc

 

[Franklin]

On 13 Oct 2004, General Schvantzkoph wrote:

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 07:55:14 +0000, kony wrote:

On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 01:53:07 -0500, none
gothika@bellsouth.net> wrote:

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 21:23:10 GMT, Al Smith
invalid@address.com> wrote:

Would a decent 350W PSU be enough? I am thinking of this
Nexus PSU.
http://www.nexustek.nl/nx3500.htm The specification chart
shows current delivery at min load, normal load, max load:

+3.3V 0.3A 14.0A 21.2/28A
+5V 1.0A 12.7A 30/25.5A
+12V 0.2A 4.5A 16A

(1) +3.3V & +5V total output not exceed 220Watt.
(1a) When +3.3V is loaded to 28A, then the +5V maximum
load is 25.5A. (1b) When +3.3V is loaded to 21.2A, the +5V
maximum load is 30A. (2) +3.3V & +5V & +12V total output
not exceed 330Watt.

---

Is this any good for my needs?


With 6 drives I'd go with a larger power supply, get at
least a 450W supply or even larger. An Antec 550W supply is
only $108. You don't want to waste your time hunting down
system glitches because you saved 30 bucks on a power
supply.


You don't want to waste $30 for nothing, either.

Yes you do. The lowest rated supply I use for Athalon systems
is 400 watts, and that is only with one HD.
Anymore and I go with a 500 watt.
Believe me if you really try and do any serious computing loads
with an under rated power supply you're asking for serious
migraines.


It's true that an insufficient power supply can cause both
instability and eventual damage, but the typical Athlon
system does not need 400W, and there is almost no "PC"
system that needs 500W, even if the vast majority of the
current were concentrated on only the 5V or 12V rail.

With a typical PC, that being current-gen CPU, a couple hard
drives, budget/low-end video card, etc, 300W PSU in a good
name brand is sufficient. SFF systems demonstrate every day
that even a 180-250W PSU will run a modern built with enough
margin for another hard drive or two... but the PSU may need
replaced sooner.

Generics on the other hand, are a lottery. Their wattage
rating means almost nothing, they can only be assumed to be
somewhere inbetween 200W and 400W without further evidence.

The OP seems to be talking about a file server not a desktop PC.
It's hard to imagine why you would need 6 drives on a desktop.

I am the OP. I guess I am a bit weird but it is my home PC on my
desktop and used as a single user system. I have 6 drives to back up
partitions and to store my data.

The disks are going to be working much harder in a file server
then they would be in a PC. The symptom of a power supply
problem on a file server is that a disk suddenly drops off line,
they system continues to run but you've lost that drive until
you do a reboot. It's very annoying. It's much better to spend
a few more dollars to get a robust supply. There will be $1000
worth of drives in that system, it's silly to worry about 30 or
40 bucks extra for a 550W supply vs a 350W.

Nowadays these sort of drives cost about $100 each (for 120 GB or
thereabouts). The older drives cost me more but are even cheaper to
replace at today's cost.