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Check the date codes on the chips.I have second hand Teac tv CT-M4895
would anyone know roughly how old it is.
It's mostly an effect of a flat screen with minimal, or no, dynamicRegarding the Sony 24": I paid more attention to the grid pattern with
a dot in the middle of each square and also noticed that the dots two
inches or less from the sides and top/bottom of screen are severely
"flared", almost doubled.
Does this imply convergence issues, and how can I *attempt* to get
those dots as sharp as those in the center of the screen. No wonder
this thing is so blurry all the time!
Convergence has always been a problem with color CRT's. With 3Thanks for any suggs on the Sony convergence. I never thought I'd see
convergence issues on a good ole' CRT!
15M Ohm 1/4W, Pkg/100 1.62 EAIn trying to test the laser power supplies I mentioned in an earlier
post, I dug out my HV meter...it's a Heathkit, inherited from my great
grandpa. It didn't appear to be funcioning, so I disassembled it...In
the probe end, I found 2 large resistors, constructed of some material
printed in a spiral around a ceramic cylinder. Both were cracked at
one end (where they were screwed to the pobe tip and the rest of the
meter...possibly someone screwed the unit together with too much
force.) One was labelled as 800 megaohm (!!!) made by Beman Mfg. Inc,
Component Division. The other is unlabelled. Does anyone know where I
could obtain replacements, or what I could use instead (other than
1,600 1-megaohm resistors )
It's the shipping that kills these as deals otherwise I'd add it to myhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7513718957
tested and it works perfectly
Good day...Apex is a throw away TV.. they are cheap and do not last,
the best thing to do with this TV is put it by the curb and get another
brand next time
Hi,
I've got an RCA F27665 27" TV (chasis CTC203AX) with good sound and
menus, but no image. I believe this is caused by the glue on the
location L14401 coil, so I'd like to remove the coil, remove the glue,
then put the coil back in place. The problem is that the circuit board
doesn't seem to want to come off it's tray. I've opened up the set,
removed the circuitboard tray, and removed the hex nut along the edge
of the board, but the board still seems to be fastened to the tray.
Are there any other fasteners I'm missing? Also, is the problem glue
on the coil red in color?
Thanks for your input,
Mark
On 5 May 2005 08:05:55 -0700, Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:
I have second hand Teac tv CT-M4895
would anyone know roughly how old it is.
Check the date codes on the chips.
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
My DC PSU is Sanken, tracing through it I found the rawDC PSU has opto couplers, there is an isolated switch mode,
raw AC in. It's txfmr drives all the rectifiers, logic etc, there
are output V level sensors, and their o/p feeds back to the
isolated switch mode. So we have a mains side, and
an isolated logic side.
How about "It's probably just a blown fuse"? Or "The fuse blew, so I putThe old bad switch trick, yep every time a set is dead it's "the
switch", simple, simple. I'm glad to be in a business that all day long
all we see bad is "switches". Rant, but the truth, NOT.
I would think that although there is an exact position that it isI just replaced a spindle motor in a Sony DVD player. Before I removed
the defective motor I was very careful to note the clearance between
the bottom of the plastic piece that the disc sits on when it rotates,
and the top of the housing that the motor is mounted to. I did this by
using a drill bit as a feeler guage before pulling this little disc off
the defective motor shaft when I removed it from the unit. Naturally I
reassembled everything in the reverse order maintaining the same
clearance with the new motor. The new motor spun up ok but would not
read the disc until (after some tweaking with the clearance) I
decreased it a bit more than it originally was. At that point the disc
read fine and the job it seems was finished. A couple of things disturb
me though. For one the final adjustment was done by pure guess work and
although it seems to work just fine, (I have watched through a complete
movie and listened to CD's on this unit), how do I know if the position
of the disc relative to the laser unit is dead center or marginal? Just
how critical is this clearance? Is there some room for a certain amount
of error here? And also what is the correct procedure for doing this
replacement? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
Lenny,
What does noise have to do with it? I suspect there's some cracked solderEven though I think that it's something that isn't complicated to fix,
since it didn't make any noice, I don't want to mess with it because I
wouldn't know how to go about it. But I guess I have an idea on what to
expect if I take it to someone. Thanks for the advice.
you know, if you don't get the smoke back in it will never"migi" <migi207@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1115445801.074030.48680@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Even though I think that it's something that isn't complicated to fix,
since it didn't make any noice, I don't want to mess with it because I
wouldn't know how to go about it. But I guess I have an idea on what to
expect if I take it to someone. Thanks for the advice.
What does noise have to do with it? I suspect there's some cracked solder
joints in the power supply section.
nah!!, he must of opened the case and let the smoke out!
Some Teacs fall over if you are not careful. The rear cover forms part"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:v40l711dndpi2atl2cc0m4820jsjf5asqr@4ax.com...
On 5 May 2005 08:05:55 -0700, Jim_Lazzaro@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:
I have second hand Teac tv CT-M4895
would anyone know roughly how old it is.
Check the date codes on the chips.
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
haha, if he can get it open! - and and if he really *wants* to! =)
After hitting a wall, my car will now only go forward and turn but no
longer goes in reverse. The reverse lamps don't light up anymore
either.
Any thoughts?
After hitting a wall, my car will now only go forward and turn but no
longer goes in reverse. The reverse lamps don't light up anymore
either.
Any thoughts?
You haven't told us enough information to be useful, what sort of RC car? IsAfter hitting a wall, my car will now only go forward and turn but no
longer goes in reverse. The reverse lamps don't light up anymore
either.
Any thoughts?
Probably a dried out electrolytic capacitor in the power supply but youI have a 32" G.E. (thomson) monitor that takes 1-15 minutes to power
up...
the power light blinks continously, and the picture flickers on the
screen each time the power light blinks.
Help greatly appreciated.
jon
below suggests a DC PSU overload. Shorted or partially shortedIt's a Sanken PS10059K. I now remember reading something about
optocouplers for regulation in Sam Goldwasser's SMPS FAQ. I think the
two optocouplers you mention are 2 TLP634 6-pin DIP ICs sitting side by
side between the primary and secondary sides. But how do I test them???
From what you say, I suspect that the high pitched whine, mentioned
Several approaches to testing switchmodes. One is a wind up Variac.From what you say, control panel still stays working, but
not the motors, suggests that the switchmode is still
running (otherwise how is the contol panel being supplied?)
yet the motors DC supply isn't there, since they stop.
Actually, the PSU emits a very faint high pitched whine when the fans &
motor stop, so apparently it shuts down partially.
You really need a schematic (or at least a block
schematic) so you can find and monitor the DC levels
at where they plug into the chassis.
All I have is the block diagram in the service manual -- no schematics.
I've monitored the voltages, and it's definitely the DC PSU, but I
can't figure out the exact component.
.... and a dramatic increase in smoke output (but only temporarily).Yes as you increase the voltage the motor will draw more current as well,
and in return you get a dramatic increase in horsepower.