Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Ben Myers]

Yes, rather than taking the time to troubleshoot and repair components, REPLACE
them !!!! Even when this printer was HP's top-of-the-line, HP techs never
repaired individual components.

But if you like challenges, have at it. I have enough challenges in my life
without attempting board repairs... Ben Myers

On 8 May 2005 14:16:39 -0700, Dani@spamtothehand.com wrote:

I think everyone got distracted and ignored the "55 error" in the post.
In an HPIII a 55 error is a communications error between the DC
controller and the Formatter board. Both need to be replaced. If you go
to fixyourownprinter.com and type HPIII 55 error in the search box,
you'll see the info. There is also a service manual available for free
download. If you so decide, you can get replacement parts as well.

 

[DaveM]

"Sparta" <taiwest@mac.com> wrote in message
news:1115598055.359957.231540@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Anyone built the power supply from "electricity & electronics" by randy
slone?

I just completed construction of this power supply and made the
modifications on page 333 using the IC voltage regulators (nte956 and
nte957). My input voltage is about 36v however the output voltage from
the IC is about 28v.

The previous circuit that did not use the IC's gave a variable output
of about +- 3.8 to 36 volts DC. Now I'm getting about +- 1.2 to 28.
I'm wondering that if incorporating the IC's to improve the voltage
regulation under load is the cause of this? Is this the expected
outcome?

Here is a diagram of the positive side of the regulated power supply.


36V
raw
+dc__________________NTE956__________________________________Regulated
V Pos.
| | | |
| | | |
+ |_____220 ohm 2W 10uF 35VDC
4700uF 50W | |
- 5Kohm 2W potentiometer 10uF 35VDC
| | |
| | |
Circuit Common Circuit Common Circuit Common

Your circuit can't possibly produce a +36 volt output due to a couple of
reasons.
(1) The NTE956, which is the equivalent to the standard LM317 voltage
regulator, needs a 3 volt minimum differential between input and output
voltages. Given your +36V input, the best that this regulator can produce
is +33 volts.
(2) Use the equation Vout = 1.25 (1 + (R2/R1)) + R2(Iq) to calculate the
resistor values. As you can see by the equation, your resistance values
will produce Vout of 29 volts... close to what you are getting. (R1 = 220
ohms and R2 is the 5K pot in your diagram).

In order to increase the Vout of your circuit, you'll have to either
increase the total resistance of the pot or decrease the resistance of R1.
Use the formula to calculate values to suit. Hint... it's a lot easier to
calculate for a smaller R1, because of the limited selection of values for
common pots.


--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Sparta" <taiwest@mac.com> writes:

Anyone built the power supply from "electricity & electronics" by randy
slone?

I just completed construction of this power supply and made the
modifications on page 333 using the IC voltage regulators (nte956 and
nte957). My input voltage is about 36v however the output voltage from
the IC is about 28v.

The previous circuit that did not use the IC's gave a variable output
of about +- 3.8 to 36 volts DC. Now I'm getting about +- 1.2 to 28.
I'm wondering that if incorporating the IC's to improve the voltage
regulation under load is the cause of this? Is this the expected
outcome?

Here is a diagram of the positive side of the regulated power supply.


36V
raw
+dc__________________NTE956__________________________________Regulated
V Pos.
| | | |
| | | |
+ |_____220 ohm 2W 10uF 35VDC
4700uF 50W | |
- 5Kohm 2W potentiometer 10uF 35VDC
| | |
| | |
Circuit Common Circuit Common Circuit Common

You can figure it out yourself. The voltage regulator's mission in life
is to make sure there is about 1.25 V across the 220 ohm resistor.
In order for that to be the case (assuming there is negligible
current from the IC common terminal), then you have a voltage divider
formed by the 220 ohm resistor and 5K pot. Comes out to a bit over 28 V.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[JR North]

While you would assume the switch just switches the current for the
lamps, there is probably a transistorized circuit to do the switching,
which is faulty.
Check the voltage available at the door switch. If it's LV, well, there
you go....
JR

nntp.post@gmail.com wrote:

Hi all-

Got a strange one for you.

We moved into a 5 yr old house about 6 months ago (in the US). Have a
Whirlpool built in electric oven, model RBS305PDB8. Works quite well,
still looks to be in "as-new" condition.

Periodically, at random times, sometimes once a week, sometimes once a
month, sometimes multiple times a day, when the oven is not in use and
the door is closed, the 2 lights inside the oven will flash on and off
(on for 1/2 second, off for 1/2 second, repeat NOT flickering, but
constant) until we open and close the
oven door.

I called Whirlpool, but they hadn't ever heard of this problem (But
then again, the guy told me to make sure the bulbs weren't burned out.
If they were burned out, they couldn't be flashing!!).

I've tried pushing the door closed (in case it was slightly opened)
when this happens, but that doesn't seem to work. I need to open and
then close the door to make it stop.

I found a website with error codes for Whirlpool ovens, but they all
appear on the lcd display, not by flashing the oven lights.

I have unfortunately been unable to eliminate the posibility that all
of this is caused by either of the 2 ghosts that live here. I've asked
both, but neither one of them is talking.

Putting that possiblity aside, let me add some details and thoughts:

1) Under normal operating conditions, the light can be turned on by
either pressing the "light" button on the control panel or by opening
the door. There is a punger type switch built into the oven frame, at
the top of the unit. Holding down the punger turns off the light, even
if the oven door is open, so I believe that it's the only door open
sensor. Depressing the punger even slightly turns the light off and I
can pull the door open slightly without the light coming on. So I
don't think it's a problem witht he door becoming open, it has to be
very open to turn on the light.

2) The last time this happened I tried jumping up and down next to the
oven and banging the counter top that it above the oven. No change,
just 1/2 second on 1/2 second off. Jiggling the door left and right
didn't do anything. Only way to stop it is to open and then shut the
door.

3) I tried pushing the door closed more, I mean really pushing on it,
still no change.

4) Afer jumping didn't do anything, I tried pressing buttons on the
contol panel, looking for any change.

a) Hitting "Light" button turns the light on constant. As soon as I
press the button again, the flashing starts again.

b) Turning the oven on cook, starts the oven, (can't remember for sure,
think flashing continues), and the temperature setting flashes between
the temp and the word "DOOR" indicating that the door is open. If I
open the door all the way, "DOOR" stays on permanently.

5) I also tried leaving the door open, not when the flashing was going
on, but when the lights were initially off. I left it open for 3 hours
and the light just stayed on solid. This eliminates the possiblity
that the flashing it some kind of timer saying "hey stupid, you left
the door open."

6) Now I'm no electrician, but I'd think that a loose connection would
cause flickering of the lights, not a constant 1/2 second on 1/2 second
off cycle.

Has anyone ever experienced this before or have any suggestions?

Kindly,
Ken

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

 

[JR North]

Penalty mode for reckless driving.
JR

veklad@iprimus.com.au wrote:

After hitting a wall, my car will now only go forward and turn but no
longer goes in reverse. The reverse lamps don't light up anymore
either.

Any thoughts?

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 8 May 2005 05:17:53 -0700, veklad@iprimus.com.au put finger to
keyboard and composed:

After hitting a wall, my car will now only go forward and turn but no
longer goes in reverse. The reverse lamps don't light up anymore
either.

The fwd/rev motor is usually driven by 4 transistors in a H-bridge
configuration. Assuming there are no physical breakages, I'd say one
or both of those transistors is faulty.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[harrimansat]

Replace all ectrolitic capacitors smd in head amplifier board. I will solve
del problem.

Video 8 don´t have ac head, only drum heads.

Mucha suerte!

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

Go to the electrical department at Home Depot or Lowes and buy what I
call a "squeaker". More properly called, I think, a non-contact voltage
tester. It looks like a fountain pen. When you squeeze the pocket clip
against the body, it chirps once. Then if you hold the tip near an
energized wire, it chirps continuously.

There are two variants. One is labelled "100-250 volts". You must hold
it within an inch or so of a 120VAC wire to make it chirp, so this may
not work for you if the wires are buried back between the wall studs.
But there is a "low voltage version" - mine says "12-90 VAC" that can
detect a 120 VAC wire from considerably farther away. This is probably
what you want. Mine is made by GB Instruments, model GVD-504LV (the LV
suffix meaning "low voltage").

If you don't have a Home Depot or Lowe's near you, the standard version
of these things is often available at Ace Hardware, etc - or on eBay -
but I'm not sure about the low-voltage version. Still, they are not
expensive, so try it out.

Bill Jeffrey
=========================

atxhandy@yahoo.com wrote:

Could somebody tell me how I could discover wires behind wood plywood
panelling of an older house?

 

[NSM]

<atxhandy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1115653827.771073.10560@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Could somebody tell me how I could discover wires behind wood plywood
panelling of an older house?

My dollar store sold some pen/screwdriver gadgets to do that.
--
N

 

[James Sweet]

<TA7205@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1115691224.898326.251120@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Someone brought in an X-Box for repair.

When powered up, The fan runs, I can hear the HD whirl,
but there's no video.

The "drawer" open/close button flashes green but stays red
the rest of the time. It does open and close the door and
I can hear a disc spin when I put one in there.

I checked the 3 chokes on the PCB at the video connector,
and an on board micro fuse, they are okay. Any advice ?

Rick

Probably the best bet is to buy a unit off ebay with something else wrong
with it, beyond the power supply and replacing the DVD drive there's not a
whole lot you can do. With a mod chip you can replace the hard drive too but
that doesn't sound like the problem here.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 9 May 2005 08:50:27 -0700, atxhandy@yahoo.com wrote:

Could somebody tell me how I could discover wires behind wood plywood
panelling of an older house?

The Mastech MS8900 is a nice little instrument.
http://www.p-mastech.com/newproduct/other_instrument2.htm

 

[**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY**]

Could it be that the flashing interior lamp is a signal when using the
self cleaning feature?

JR North wrote:

While you would assume the switch just switches the current for the
lamps, there is probably a transistorized circuit to do the switching,
which is faulty.
Check the voltage available at the door switch. If it's LV, well,
there you go....
JR

nntp.post@gmail.com wrote:

Hi all-

Got a strange one for you.

We moved into a 5 yr old house about 6 months ago (in the US). Have a
Whirlpool built in electric oven, model RBS305PDB8. Works quite well,
still looks to be in "as-new" condition.

Periodically, at random times, sometimes once a week, sometimes once a
month, sometimes multiple times a day, when the oven is not in use and
the door is closed, the 2 lights inside the oven will flash on and off
(on for 1/2 second, off for 1/2 second, repeat NOT flickering, but
constant) until we open and close the
oven door.

I called Whirlpool, but they hadn't ever heard of this problem (But
then again, the guy told me to make sure the bulbs weren't burned out.
If they were burned out, they couldn't be flashing!!).

I've tried pushing the door closed (in case it was slightly opened)
when this happens, but that doesn't seem to work. I need to open and
then close the door to make it stop.

I found a website with error codes for Whirlpool ovens, but they all
appear on the lcd display, not by flashing the oven lights.

I have unfortunately been unable to eliminate the posibility that all
of this is caused by either of the 2 ghosts that live here. I've asked
both, but neither one of them is talking.

Putting that possiblity aside, let me add some details and thoughts:

1) Under normal operating conditions, the light can be turned on by
either pressing the "light" button on the control panel or by opening
the door. There is a punger type switch built into the oven frame, at
the top of the unit. Holding down the punger turns off the light, even
if the oven door is open, so I believe that it's the only door open
sensor. Depressing the punger even slightly turns the light off and I
can pull the door open slightly without the light coming on. So I
don't think it's a problem witht he door becoming open, it has to be
very open to turn on the light.

2) The last time this happened I tried jumping up and down next to the
oven and banging the counter top that it above the oven. No change,
just 1/2 second on 1/2 second off. Jiggling the door left and right
didn't do anything. Only way to stop it is to open and then shut the
door.

3) I tried pushing the door closed more, I mean really pushing on it,
still no change.

4) Afer jumping didn't do anything, I tried pressing buttons on the
contol panel, looking for any change.

a) Hitting "Light" button turns the light on constant. As soon as I
press the button again, the flashing starts again.

b) Turning the oven on cook, starts the oven, (can't remember for sure,
think flashing continues), and the temperature setting flashes between
the temp and the word "DOOR" indicating that the door is open. If I
open the door all the way, "DOOR" stays on permanently.

5) I also tried leaving the door open, not when the flashing was going
on, but when the lights were initially off. I left it open for 3 hours
and the light just stayed on solid. This eliminates the possiblity
that the flashing it some kind of timer saying "hey stupid, you left
the door open."

6) Now I'm no electrician, but I'd think that a loose connection would
cause flickering of the lights, not a constant 1/2 second on 1/2 second
off cycle.

Has anyone ever experienced this before or have any suggestions?

Kindly, Ken

--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"

The Lost Deep Thoughts By: Jack Handey
Before a mad scientist goes mad, there's probably a time
when he's only partially mad. And this is the time when he's
going to throw his best parties.

 

[Ken Weitzel]

nntp.post@gmail.com wrote:

Hi all-

Got a strange one for you.

We moved into a 5 yr old house about 6 months ago (in the US). Have a
Whirlpool built in electric oven, model RBS305PDB8. Works quite well,
still looks to be in "as-new" condition.

Periodically, at random times, sometimes once a week, sometimes once a
month, sometimes multiple times a day, when the oven is not in use and
the door is closed, the 2 lights inside the oven will flash on and off
(on for 1/2 second, off for 1/2 second, repeat NOT flickering, but
constant) until we open and close the
oven door.

I called Whirlpool, but they hadn't ever heard of this problem (But
then again, the guy told me to make sure the bulbs weren't burned out.
If they were burned out, they couldn't be flashing!!).

I've tried pushing the door closed (in case it was slightly opened)
when this happens, but that doesn't seem to work. I need to open and
then close the door to make it stop.

I found a website with error codes for Whirlpool ovens, but they all
appear on the lcd display, not by flashing the oven lights.

I have unfortunately been unable to eliminate the posibility that all
of this is caused by either of the 2 ghosts that live here. I've asked
both, but neither one of them is talking.

Putting that possiblity aside, let me add some details and thoughts:

1) Under normal operating conditions, the light can be turned on by
either pressing the "light" button on the control panel or by opening
the door. There is a punger type switch built into the oven frame, at
the top of the unit. Holding down the punger turns off the light, even
if the oven door is open, so I believe that it's the only door open
sensor. Depressing the punger even slightly turns the light off and I
can pull the door open slightly without the light coming on. So I
don't think it's a problem witht he door becoming open, it has to be
very open to turn on the light.

2) The last time this happened I tried jumping up and down next to the
oven and banging the counter top that it above the oven. No change,
just 1/2 second on 1/2 second off. Jiggling the door left and right
didn't do anything. Only way to stop it is to open and then shut the
door.

3) I tried pushing the door closed more, I mean really pushing on it,
still no change.

4) Afer jumping didn't do anything, I tried pressing buttons on the
contol panel, looking for any change.

a) Hitting "Light" button turns the light on constant. As soon as I
press the button again, the flashing starts again.

b) Turning the oven on cook, starts the oven, (can't remember for sure,
think flashing continues), and the temperature setting flashes between
the temp and the word "DOOR" indicating that the door is open. If I
open the door all the way, "DOOR" stays on permanently.

5) I also tried leaving the door open, not when the flashing was going
on, but when the lights were initially off. I left it open for 3 hours
and the light just stayed on solid. This eliminates the possiblity
that the flashing it some kind of timer saying "hey stupid, you left
the door open."

6) Now I'm no electrician, but I'd think that a loose connection would
cause flickering of the lights, not a constant 1/2 second on 1/2 second
off cycle.

Has anyone ever experienced this before or have any suggestions?

Kindly,
Ken

Hi Ken...

Don't know the machine at all, but a couple of thoughts, if
I may?

Flashing asking you to latch the door for a pre-programmed
self cleaning?

Perhaps it's - what's the word? - been told to begin cooking
at a preset time, and warning anyone nearby to keep fingers
away as it prepares to start?

Perhaps it's reached the end of a pre-programmed event, and
warning you that it's ready (with the audible signal turned off)?

Is their a minute minder? Maybe sounding off with the audible
disabled?

Just thinking...

Ken

 

[JANA]

There is not much you can service, other than changing parts until you find
the right one. From what I have read, most of the time, it is the drives
that fail in these units. The X-Box is very preparatory.

--

JANA
_____


<TA7205@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1115691224.898326.251120@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Someone brought in an X-Box for repair.

When powered up, The fan runs, I can hear the HD whirl,
but there's no video.

The "drawer" open/close button flashes green but stays red
the rest of the time. It does open and close the door and
I can hear a disc spin when I put one in there.

I checked the 3 chokes on the PCB at the video connector,
and an on board micro fuse, they are okay. Any advice ?

Rick

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

One day TheLogster got dressed and committed to text

To the person who wrote this -

I would like to commend you. We live in a culture where it is not "PC"
or the "in thing" to talk about God. Society has moved away from not
just belief in God, by also away from the basic teachings of the
bible. I am talking about love, family and community. After all - we
are all God's children.

It can be difficult to introduce such topics to newsgroups and I
wanted to send at least one message that is encourging and not "hate
mail".

Of course, and please make sure that the message goes to all groups. This is
called "Spamming" but since YOU believe in the message no one will be upset.
None of the ISP's will resent the extra bandwidth used by all the replies
and banter etc. It's a really good idea for you to display your faith.
It should make you feel really good and cleansed and bring flocks of
converted people to your faith.
A real tribute to your intelligence.

--
Regards ..... Rheilly Phoull

 

[kip]

Did you use the original HOT 2SC4589-04 ( 2315273 ) ??

kip
<stokesb@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1115722154.859712.16750@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I have a Hitachi TV model #50EX10B. I have replaced the horizontal
output transistor twice. I did just find a faulty transistor in the B+
supply that I think is part of a safety circuit (over voltage). Before
replacing with another HOT, what can I check that would keep blowing
this? All components in the immediate area check good. I have checked
the flyback windings best I could with a DMV, and don't see anything
shorted to ground. The main B+ fuse doesn't blow either. Thanks for any
feedback on this.

 

[Henry Kolesnik]

ARRL Handbook would be one for good general coverage...
The other two would depend on your specific interests.

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
"Nikolas Britton" <nbritton@nbritton.org> wrote in message
news:1115714039.047874.322670@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Hypothetically, If you where only allowed to read and have 3 books
about electronics what would they be? This is pretty broad, so let's
try and keep the focus on intermediate level, or above, books with an
emphasis on analog electronics. Books on troubleshooting would be nice
too.

Thank You.

 

[Travis Jordan]

josh00@comcast.net wrote:

What would I need as a line clamp or
conditioner to it swinging so dramatically? I could probably live
with 5v swing one way or another. Any suggestions?

A capacitor.

 

[Eric Jorgensen]

On 10 May 2005 14:07:21 -0700
nntp.post@gmail.com wrote:

This wasn't answered in detail elsewhere, just a bunch of people giving
their thoughts, much like this thread so far. I certainly appreciate
everyone's replies, but I've yet to find someone with the same problem
who has a remedy.

Since in the other newsgroups I didn't receive a definitive answer and
a poster suggested that I try posting here, I did as much.

OR - maybe there was a definitive answer that I missed somewhere? NT-
if this is the case, please point me in the direction of this post.

All mechanical diagnoses remain less than definitive until the fix has
been tried. sight-unseen diagnosis doubly so.

The bottom line is that you'll have to either investigate the mechanics
of it yourself or pay an appliance repairman to do it for you.

My two bits: It's definitely either a mechanical or electrical failure.

See?

My Whirlpool range had a similar problem, for a while, that went away.
At the moment i can't get the light in the oven to turn on under any
circumstances (yes, I've replaced the bulb), but since i can't see through
the window i don't care.

 

[Bereschuim]

Renegader Wrote:

Hi there,

I have a Provision PR-DVD2.0 with a Zhinan ZN1792-E powersupply.
The C3 and R4 are broken.
C3 is known, but R4 is not recognable.

Can someone help me?

Yes! Bereschuim can help you.
R4 is green-black-brown.
It means 500 ohms.

Now my question...
Do you know the coulors from R4? (it is just underneath D4)


--
Bereschuim