Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Gumby wrote:

Ronald700012@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1114965632.805613.106750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

This is the most important question of your life.

The question is: Are you saved?
Yes, feck off.
 
You need to keep better track of where and how you post. Did a Google search
a few months ago on our city name and noticed a post from one of our very
prominent business owners looking for a male sex slave. At least he used an
anonymous hotmail address, but he forgot to delete his business signature
line. I always thought that guy had a screw loose...

<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1114981938.917471.141620@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

What a trip, now I'll probably start getting spammed and have to change
or close down this email.
 
How does wanting sex equate to having a screw loose?
It's American as apple pie.

"testortool" <mbillings@comcast.net> wrote in message news:117b6opojvirs5e@corp.supernews.com...
You need to keep better track of where and how you post. Did a Google search
a few months ago on our city name and noticed a post from one of our very
prominent business owners looking for a male sex slave. At least he used an
anonymous hotmail address, but he forgot to delete his business signature
line. I always thought that guy had a screw loose...

ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1114981938.917471.141620@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

What a trip, now I'll probably start getting spammed and have to change
or close down this email.
 
HI Nikolas

On 2 May 2005 01:08:41 -0700, "Nikolas Britton"
<nbritton@nbritton.org> wrote:

Does this have something to do with adjusting the compensating
capacitor in the probe, is the p6006 adjustable, do you twist the probe
until the square wave is square?

I guess if thats true then it would make sense that the probe adjust
signal is all out of wack because I dismantled the probe and then when
I put it back together I didn't compensate it, yes I'm a total newbie
with scopes.
I'm not familiar with that specific model of probe - the ones I've
used have a small 'screw-head slot' in the body of the probe that you
tweak with (ideally) a non-metallic tweaker unti a square wave looks
square.

On my old Hameg scope there's even a handy 'calibration' output on the
front panel, so you can just hang the probe on there & adjust it.

Certainly sounds like you've accidentally 'adjusted' the scope probe -
now all you need to do is find out how to set it back <g>

Good luck
Adrian
Suffolk UK

======return email munged=================
take out the papers and the trash to reply
 
In article <1115016099.499381.179210@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
Nikolas Britton <nbritton@nbritton.org> wrote:
After I get everything back together and turned the unit on I tested it
with the probe adjust signal, the square wave was not square, It has a
triangular spike at the top / beginning of the wave and the inverse at
the end / bottom of the wave.
The probe should have an adjustment on it for precisely this reason.

--
*Verbs HAS to agree with their subjects *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
The LJ4, LJ4+ and LJ5 are just as rock-solid as the LJ3. They all have better
power-saving features. Retire the LJ3 unless you can get one for free to
scavenge for parts... Ben Myers

On 2 May 2005 05:43:09 -0700, "GanjaTron" <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote:

Hi folks,

has anyone out there ever managed to troubleshoot the DC power supply
in one of these dinosaurs? Mine's developed a fault in the 24V supply,
killing the fans and main motor < 1 minute after powerup. Input from
the AC module remains stable (220VAC) , as does the 5V output since the
panel still functions and gripes about a "SERVICE 55". According to the
service manual, 55 indicates a DC controller error, but I've ruled
that out since the 24V output from the DC PSU still drops after
detaching the DC controller.

I'd appreciate any comments on diagnosing this baby on the component
level. Sure, replacing the entire module is a piece of cake, but hardly
worth the cost when I can get an LJ4+ for the same price (which of
course isn't quite as rock solid)...

Thanks 'n' stuff!

--GanjaTron
 
Whats wrong E-Bay no cutting it for you.
kip
> HUGE lot of various 45 rpm record vinyl disks, great for DJ,
 
Go to www.anderson-tech.com and look for the toll free number. Give Mr.
Anderson a call. He may be able to help you out.

"GanjaTron" <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:1115037789.059181.223020@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Hi folks,

has anyone out there ever managed to troubleshoot the DC power supply
in one of these dinosaurs? Mine's developed a fault in the 24V supply,
killing the fans and main motor < 1 minute after powerup. Input from
the AC module remains stable (220VAC) , as does the 5V output since the
panel still functions and gripes about a "SERVICE 55". According to the
service manual, 55 indicates a DC controller error, but I've ruled
that out since the 24V output from the DC PSU still drops after
detaching the DC controller.

I'd appreciate any comments on diagnosing this baby on the component
level. Sure, replacing the entire module is a piece of cake, but hardly
worth the cost when I can get an LJ4+ for the same price (which of
course isn't quite as rock solid)...

Thanks 'n' stuff!

--GanjaTron
 
"Nikolas Britton" <nbritton@nbritton.org> wrote in
news:1115021321.636910.178670@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:

Does this have something to do with adjusting the compensating
capacitor in the probe, is the p6006 adjustable, do you twist the probe
until the square wave is square?

I guess if thats true then it would make sense that the probe adjust
signal is all out of wack because I dismantled the probe and then when
I put it back together I didn't compensate it, yes I'm a total newbie
with scopes.
On that model probe,the main probe body is screwed in or out to adjust
compensation,then the collar is screwed to lock the probe body in place.
That probe was originally designed for use with earlier 500 series tube
scopes,but is perfectly usable for your model.The hook tips and some other
accessory tips are less useful for modern circuitry,though.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 
Ronald700012@yahoo.com wrote:
This is the most important question of your life.
This is the most honest answer dipstick:

top ten signs of fundamentalist christians

10 - You vigorously deny the existence of thousands of gods claimed by other
religions, but feel outraged when someone denies the existence of yours.

9 - You feel insulted and "dehumanized" when scientists say that people
evolved from other life forms, but you have no problem with the Biblical
claim that we were created from dirt.

8 - You laugh at polytheists, but you have no problem believing in a Triune
God.

7 - Your face turns purple when you hear of the "atrocities" attributed to
Allah, but you don't even flinch when hearing about how God/Jehovah
slaughtered all the babies of Egypt in "Exodus" and ordered the elimination
of entire ethnic groups in "Joshua" including women, children, and trees!

6 - You laugh at Hindu beliefs that deify humans, and Greek claims about
gods sleeping with women, but you have no problem believing that the Holy
Spirit impregnated Mary, who then gave birth to a man-god who got killed,
came back to life and then ascended into the sky.

5 - You are willing to spend your life looking for little loopholes in the
scientifically established age of Earth (few billion years), but you find
nothing wrong with believing dates recorded by Bronze Age tribesmen sitting
in their tents and guessing that Earth is a few generations old.

4 - You believe that the entire population of this planet with the exception
of those who share your beliefs -- though excluding those in all rival
sects - will spend Eternity in an infinite Hell of Suffering. And yet
consider your religion the most "tolerant" and "loving."


3 - While modern science, history, geology, biology, and physics have failed
to convince you otherwise, some idiot rolling around on the floor speaking
in "tongues" may be all the evidence you need to "prove" Christianity.

2 - You define 0.01% as a "high success rate" when it comes to answered
prayers. You consider that to be evidence that prayer works. And you think
that the remaining 99.99% FAILURE was simply the will of God.

1 - You actually know a lot less than many atheists and agnostics do about
the Bible, Christianity, and church history - but still call yourself a
Christian.



NINE WORLD RELIGIONS SIMPLIFIED

Taoism Shit happens!
Confucianism Confucius says: "Shit happens"
Buddhism If shit happens, it really isn't shit!
Zen What is the sound of shit happening?
Hinduism This shit happened before!
Islam If shit happens, it's the will of Allah!
Protestantism Let shit happen to someone else!
Catholiscism If shit happens, you deserved it!
Judaism Why does shit always happen to us?
 
I havent particularly worked on an inspiron motherboard, but I have repaired
several dead motherboards in the lattitude series. One thing I can tell you,
it IS a power transistor in an IC package. either an NPN or a PNP type.
chances are, when you test that transistor with a diode check of a DMM,
youll prolly get a short between all the pins, in which case the light will
immidiatly go out when you plug in the power adapter.

Anyway, the chip is most likely a regulator transistor. im not sure which
type, its either an NPN or a PNP. it could also be a voltage regulator IC,
but i doubt it.

Your best bet is to find another inspiron motherboard with a different
problem from ebay, and pulling the chip off of that board. like I did with
lattitude cpi's.

numbers arnt going to help you, as its most likely a factory code.


"Mike" <masnews01@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115061124.578658.126820@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Short Story

I'm trying to fix a Dell Inspiron 5100 motherboard. I believe that
there is a chip/component that was damaged. The package is damaged, so
I can't read all the codes. I have photos of the partial code and
location of the component: http://5100.iut.us

Long Story

My wife plugged a old Compaq power supply into her Dell Insipron 5100
(insert square peg in a round hole joke here) by accident. She noticed
a burning smell and unplugged it right away. The laptop still worked
running off the battery but would not work with only the AC adaptor or
with a dead battery and it won't charge the battery anymore. Dell
wants $399 for a new motherboard and I have to install it myself or
hire someone. I figure I can't loose much trying to fix it or
jerry-rig an AC adaptor to work through the batter connector.

I took the motherboard out and noticed that there is small chip-like
component that looks fried. I can't make out all the codes on it so I
am trying to figure out what the part codes are so I can try and order
a new one and solder it on.

I have some photos on my web site of the component and it's position on
the motherboard. If anyone can identify the part or has any ideas on
how I can get more information to identify it myself, please let me
know.

Photos: http://5100.iut.us

-Mike
 
only thing I can make out, it looks to be a LM393, which is a dual
comparator.

oops. I was talking about that chip down to the left corner, which is a
transistor.



"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:FIvde.1471$Q.1305@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com...
I havent particularly worked on an inspiron motherboard, but I have
repaired
several dead motherboards in the lattitude series. One thing I can tell
you,
it IS a power transistor in an IC package. either an NPN or a PNP type.
chances are, when you test that transistor with a diode check of a DMM,
youll prolly get a short between all the pins, in which case the light
will
immidiatly go out when you plug in the power adapter.

Anyway, the chip is most likely a regulator transistor. im not sure which
type, its either an NPN or a PNP. it could also be a voltage regulator IC,
but i doubt it.

Your best bet is to find another inspiron motherboard with a different
problem from ebay, and pulling the chip off of that board. like I did with
lattitude cpi's.

numbers arnt going to help you, as its most likely a factory code.


"Mike" <masnews01@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115061124.578658.126820@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Short Story

I'm trying to fix a Dell Inspiron 5100 motherboard. I believe that
there is a chip/component that was damaged. The package is damaged, so
I can't read all the codes. I have photos of the partial code and
location of the component: http://5100.iut.us

Long Story

My wife plugged a old Compaq power supply into her Dell Insipron 5100
(insert square peg in a round hole joke here) by accident. She noticed
a burning smell and unplugged it right away. The laptop still worked
running off the battery but would not work with only the AC adaptor or
with a dead battery and it won't charge the battery anymore. Dell
wants $399 for a new motherboard and I have to install it myself or
hire someone. I figure I can't loose much trying to fix it or
jerry-rig an AC adaptor to work through the batter connector.

I took the motherboard out and noticed that there is small chip-like
component that looks fried. I can't make out all the codes on it so I
am trying to figure out what the part codes are so I can try and order
a new one and solder it on.

I have some photos on my web site of the component and it's position on
the motherboard. If anyone can identify the part or has any ideas on
how I can get more information to identify it myself, please let me
know.

Photos: http://5100.iut.us

-Mike
 
"Nikolas Britton" <nbritton@nbritton.org> wrote in message
news:1114834534.472526.153560@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
borgunit2...@yahoo.com wrote:
Whats wrong with another Fluke?

I'm on a budget and can't afford the Fluke branding, Other then that
the meters are great.
I like Ideal myself. They often show up new and cheap on eBay.
--
N
 
Let me know how you make out. I have several PS and remnants in the
shop which I can let go at modest price. Contact me
therepairman at optonline.net


On 2 May 2005 05:43:09 -0700, "GanjaTron" <ganjatron@gmx.net> wrote:

Hi folks,

has anyone out there ever managed to troubleshoot the DC power supply
in one of these dinosaurs? Mine's developed a fault in the 24V supply,
killing the fans and main motor < 1 minute after powerup. Input from
the AC module remains stable (220VAC) , as does the 5V output since the
panel still functions and gripes about a "SERVICE 55". According to the
service manual, 55 indicates a DC controller error, but I've ruled
that out since the 24V output from the DC PSU still drops after
detaching the DC controller.

I'd appreciate any comments on diagnosing this baby on the component
level. Sure, replacing the entire module is a piece of cake, but hardly
worth the cost when I can get an LJ4+ for the same price (which of
course isn't quite as rock solid)...

Thanks 'n' stuff!

--GanjaTron
 
If its the same model number as yours...grab ALL of the boards... spares are
costly

"Al" <owl@digitex.net> wrote in message
news:1114890527.494398.81500@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I have a 52 inch projection that I started having convergence problems
just about 2 months after the warranty went out. I live in a area
where the only repair is 40 to 50 miles away. We had a shop open up
and I took the tv there and he said the convergence board was out. He
kept the tv for about 4 months and never came across to get the board
or repair.
I have just curved lines on the screen now and see all the colors but
they won't go together. This tv says on the back mfg 1997. I got it
about 1999. It has been out for these 3 years or so.
Here is my question. I have a friend that had what appears to be the
same tv. His tv had a weak pix and the repair man came and turned up
something to get a bright pix but said that it was at it's max. Then a
year later this friends set went completely out.
If the tv is the same as mine can I try myself to take the convergence
board out and put his in. He says I can have it. Can some one tell me
where the board is or what I am looking for.
ANY AND ALL HELP APPRECIATED.
If you reply you might also send me an email to my email address
owl@digitex.net
THANKS
AL
 
<squelch41@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115062105.513554.123480@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Actually, having just looked, lead acid batteries seem to be in
multiples of 6v which isnt really suitable.

Would NiMH batteries be more suitable as they can provide more mAhs but
I'd imagine they'd get just as hot especially as they have a higher
internal resistance dont they?

Yes, usually these things use NiCd's, I would think NiMH would be fine with
intermittant use though.
 
Lenny,

email me privately. There are several issues with these that you need to be
aware of.

Leonard
use first initial followed by first 6 letters of last name at devoynet dot
com

<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1115137523.718643.41040@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
I havent opened this set up yet. We're trying to decide if it might be
worthwhile to attempt to chase this down in the home or if we should
take it to the shop. Its just such a heavy sucker. I don't have a
schematic for it yet either. Apparently it was working when the raster
just suddenly quit. Sound is OK and thee filament is lit. I know I'm
not providing very much information here but since I can see the
filament through the vent holes would that suggest that perhaps the HV
and horizontal circuits are working fine? I havent seen a CRT filament
powered by anything besides flyback scan derived for years now so I'm
assuming this, but I don't know. Actually I thought these sets usually
just shut down and blink if ANYTHING goes wrong with them but this one
is not doing that. Are there any common problems that are associated
with the above symptoms that anyone knows about? Thanks very much,
Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
 
Be carefull not to force the board, but pull it away
from the tray firmly. They get stuck in there sometimes.
The coil IS the only problem. Solder it! Rono,
 
Glue is usually slightly grey in colour, maybe a bit brownish. Like the
stuff from the glue guns. Best to physically remove the coil, clean the glue
residue form the pcb and leads of the coil, then reinstall the coil. Seen a
lot of guys try to just resolder them and have other problems later. Agree
with tender care in sliding the pcb out of the plastic tray, they do stick
at times and make it a bit of a chore.
"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:KvKdncjAy_ZhmeXfRVn-pQ@rogers.com...
Be carefull not to force the board, but pull it away
from the tray firmly. They get stuck in there sometimes.
The coil IS the only problem. Solder it! Rono,
 
This is a pretty new set. Sony is no longer blanking the pix when the AKB
circuit cannot balance the return pulse. I don't recall for sure but I
think this is one of the chassis that will keep the video active.

Leonard

<dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:1115156350.398290.262820@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Turn up the G2/screen voltage slowly and look at the face of the tube.
If the picture suddenly comes back on, troubleshoot the picture tube
and AKB circuits. Lots of prior postings regarding Sony AKB here.

If it appears you have a slight halo effect at the top of bottom of the
screen, IMMEDIATELY turn the G2/Screen control back down to where you
marked it before turning it up. You have a loss of vertical and the
vertical ic still has one of its DC sources +15 or -15v still going to
the yoke. This will deflect the beam into the neck of the tube and
break the tube if you leave it on with the G2 up for too long.

Final test is to try and adjust the volume, if that works then you know
that the clock and data lines are not the cause of the problem.

David

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:
I havent opened this set up yet. We're trying to decide if it might
be
worthwhile to attempt to chase this down in the home or if we should
take it to the shop. Its just such a heavy sucker. I don't have a
schematic for it yet either. Apparently it was working when the
raster
just suddenly quit. Sound is OK and thee filament is lit. I know I'm
not providing very much information here but since I can see the
filament through the vent holes would that suggest that perhaps the
HV
and horizontal circuits are working fine? I havent seen a CRT
filament
powered by anything besides flyback scan derived for years now so I'm
assuming this, but I don't know. Actually I thought these sets
usually
just shut down and blink if ANYTHING goes wrong with them but this
one
is not doing that. Are there any common problems that are associated
with the above symptoms that anyone knows about? Thanks very much,
Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
 

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