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On 28 Apr 2005 19:00:21 -0700, "gstringe" <annsmg@comcast.net> put
finger to keyboard and composed:
Looking for source or cross for damper diode FMPG5F
The FMP-G5FS is available from http://www.bdent.com for $5.10.
The specs are:
Manufacturer: Sanken
Vrm : 1500V
Io : 10A
Ifsm : 50A
Vf : 1.7V @ 10A
Ir : 50uA
trr : 0.7us
- Franc Zabkar
My address, like those of many others, has been munged as an antispamA.T. by the way how do I remove an S from your email address?
I typed the part number into the search engine atHi Franc,
How did you locate this source? I couldn't find one with Google!
Ziggy
Franc Zabkar wrote:
On 28 Apr 2005 19:00:21 -0700, "gstringe" <annsmg@comcast.net> put
finger to keyboard and composed:
Looking for source or cross for damper diode FMPG5F
The FMP-G5FS is available from http://www.bdent.com for $5.10.
Have you tried reprogramming the SAME codes in them, or maybeI have two Radio Shack 12-250 weather radios here. Both are functional
except that they don't trip on the weekly SAME test. I conclude that
the SAME decoder is not working in either, and needs to be realigned.
The subject TV, a Toshiba CZ32V51 exhibited the following symptoms
intermittantly: Upon startup, it immediately went into failsafe mode
with slow blinking front red led with black screen, no audio or video.
After about 5 - 10 minutes a normal picture would come on and last for
as long as viewing. Occasionally the picture would "flip" with what
sounded like it may be an arc over.
I was able to get into diagnostic mode with the following results.
Self check 23906826
Power: 000
Bus Line OK
Bus Cont OK
Block UV V1
QV01 QV01S
Finally, it no longer went into normal video mode but I was able to do
one more self check:
Self check 23906826
Power 000
Bus Line OK
Bus Cont NG H001
Block UV (in red letters) V1
QV01 QV01S (both in red letters)
Seems to point to H001 the tuner?
Can someone with experience with this diagnostic /set chassis series
N9ES help me interpret it and suggest a cure?
Thanks,
Fred
I have a 52 inch projection that I started having convergence problems
just about 2 months after the warranty went out. I live in a area
where the only repair is 40 to 50 miles away. We had a shop open up
and I took the tv there and he said the convergence board was out. He
kept the tv for about 4 months and never came across to get the board
or repair.
I have just curved lines on the screen now and see all the colors but
they won't go together. This tv says on the back mfg 1997. I got it
about 1999. It has been out for these 3 years or so.
Here is my question. I have a friend that had what appears to be the
same tv. His tv had a weak pix and the repair man came and turned up
something to get a bright pix but said that it was at it's max. Then a
year later this friends set went completely out.
If the tv is the same as mine can I try myself to take the convergence
board out and put his in. He says I can have it. Can some one tell me
where the board is or what I am looking for.
ANY AND ALL HELP APPRECIATED.
If you reply you might also send me an email to my email address
owl@digitex.net
THANKS
AL
Hi all, another strange problem that I have:
Tandberg CTV model 7R63. No IF output from tuner, and the tuner is
good, (UV1316-philips) tried another one with no help. What seems
weird is, the +33V supply which the tuner requires, is actually
fluctating quite much, between 18V and 21V depending on which channel
is selected. I also made up a constant +33V supply and fed the tuner ,
but with no improvment. Since this tuner is I2C bus controlled I begin
to think the CPU could be bad, not sending anything to the tuner which
is confused. OSD and all other functions is good, also when using the
external inputs the set operates good. This speaks for the cpu should
be good. Any advice is appreciated,
Regards
Stefan
I have a 21" Sony monitor and about 7 thin diagonal lines have appeared
on my screen. The look like faint aperture grille lines, but are
angled upward starting at the bottom left. It gives the monitor a
"Candy-Cane" appearance. They do not go away when the monitor is
disconnected from the computer, or with degaussing.
Any ideas of what has gone bad?
Approximate cost range to repair this?
I've spent quite a bit of time searching for clues to this problem so
any input would be greatly appreciated.
Uh, yeah, and color gamut on LCDs absolutely SUCK,In my opinion, since I know of this model of monitor, I would be considering
a new monitor. After servicing it, if you consider the age, there is the
potential reliability factor to consider.
A 19 inch LCD pane. would be equivalent to about a 21 inch CRT monitor.
There are many advantages of an LCD screen over a CRT monitor. One of the
main things I like about the LCD monitors, is that there are no convergence
or purity errors.
I have a 21" Sony monitor and about 7 thin diagonal lines have appeared
on my screen. The look like faint aperture grille lines, but are
angled upward starting at the bottom left. It gives the monitor a
"Candy-Cane" appearance. They do not go away when the monitor is
disconnected from the computer, or with degausing.
Any ideas of what has gone bad?
Approximate cost range to repair this?
I've spent quite a bit of time searching for clues to this problem so
any input would be greatly appreciated.
X-No-Archive: Yes
I have a brother MFC-9600 Printer/Scanner/Photocopier/Fax comobo unit.
Recently I found out the photocopy doesn't work right. It would
produce a very light print out similar to a unit very low on toner.
The unit has plenty of toner left and the laser printing unit is in
perfect order as it makes good, black prints when I send a print job to
it from my computer.
The scanner also produces good contrast when I scan to computer from
the unit.
I checked copy settings such as "document type" and "contrast" from
maximum to minimum, but the unit continues to produce very light
prints. Since the scanning and printing units are both in good working
order, I don't understand why photocopier function won't work
correctly.
Any clue?
Run, don't walk, to http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasertoc.htm .I recently acquired several model 3184-H lasers made by Hughes Aircraft
Company Electron Dynamics Division. [...] Thus far I have not been able
to find any information on these; does anyone know anything about these
devices?
Dirty optics leads to less light getting to the latent whiteyou would have to open it up, and inside are some lenticular mirrors the
image bounces off of when its scanned. The mirrors likely have a mild dust
buildup on them, which results in 'filtering' the image to a very light
impression.
dude17@sacbeemail.com> wrote in message
news:1114885959.303397.110470@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
| X-No-Archive: Yes
|
| I have a brother MFC-9600 Printer/Scanner/Photocopier/Fax comobo unit.
| Recently I found out the photocopy doesn't work right. It would
| produce a very light print out similar to a unit very low on toner.
|
| The unit has plenty of toner left and the laser printing unit is in
| perfect order as it makes good, black prints when I send a print job to
| it from my computer.
|
| The scanner also produces good contrast when I scan to computer from
| the unit.
|
| I checked copy settings such as "document type" and "contrast" from
| maximum to minimum, but the unit continues to produce very light
| prints. Since the scanning and printing units are both in good working
| order, I don't understand why photocopier function won't work
| correctly.
|
| Any clue?
|
They are HeNe lasers with plasma tubes having Brester window snd externalI recently acquired several model 3184-H lasers made by Hughes Aircraft
Company Electron Dynamics Division. They are gold-colored cylinders,
about 12.25 inches long and 1.75 inches diameter. There are small
leads (red and green) coming out of the side near one end. One of them
had been disassembeled, and had contained a glass cylinder about 3/4 of
the length of the entire thing (maybe more, it had been broken and I
estimated based on the pieces I had). I also got a few rubber blocks
about 1.5 x 4.5 x 0.5 inches, labelled Hughes Model 3591H/01 Laser
Power Supply. These have 2 small wires (black and red) and one larger
red wire protruding from one face, and a rectangular block with two
holes in it on one end. Thus far I have not been able to find any
information on these; does anyone know anything about these devices?
For the Sony, you can also check the forums at www.agoraqest.com.So I opened it, and there were a series of screens for calibrating
Contrast, Color, Sharp, and so on. Then there are two screens, each
with concentric rectangles about an inch from the edge of the screen -
one for oldie "4:3" viewers like me, and one for HD 16:9ers. Each has
a circle in the center, about 8 inches in diameter on a 24" diagonal
NTSC screen.
When I displayed it on my Toshiba 24af43 flat and the Sony 24" flat
WEGA, I was shocked by how bowed out and overscanned both sets were. I
cracked the internal menus on each set, and brought those rectangles
back on to the screens(!) let alone properly sizing them to achieve a
height and width ratio of 4:3, or, 1.33333333~ This certainly involved
a lot of "trapezoidal" and "pincushion" adjustments to get it right,
but once I did, it looked as ruler straight as I could get it.
Now here is the weird part: The concentric squares, one one inch
inside the other, were perfectly square, as measured diagonally and
vertical/horiz. The circle was perfectly round - I have a protractor
to check these things. And, everything was equally distant on all
sides. BUT: when I switch to broadcast TV - IE the Weather Channel
forecasts or other channels that use a lot of frames and boxes, the
main box may be off center, and on other channels the boxes would
appear pincushioned(some cases in or out) or even parallelogram shaped!
So I performed the secret menus adjustments according to THOSE images,
and went back to THX - Now the THX images were once again out of whack,
even worse than before.
I now have reached a compromise between the Star Wars THX calibrations
and broadcast TV - slightly out of whack between the two.
And no - neither set has geometry adjustments PER input. After all,
these are "smaller" 24" sets, not 27" or larger that probably do have
internal geometry for each input. So anyone reading this - PLEASE don't
suggest checking for adjustments for each input.
Anybody have any clues? Is it something the cable or broadcast channels
are doing to the signal? Or are both DVD players or the THX test
patterns themselves to blame?
How do I go back to the way my page looked before Beta version came in
force;
I find this to be so tiring at reading lots of threads in this Beta style.
Anybodyelse feels the same?
Cheers.
I am thinking that your meter is being effected by some harmonics. I have
seen this before. If your circuit breaker for the outlet is a 15 Amp
rated,
it would be in a short time that it should become opened.
The inverter ovens are using switching power supply technology. The
current
pull from these under load is difficult to accurately measure. If the oven
seem to be working okay, I would think it is okay.
--
Jerry G.
======
dude17@sacbeemail.com> wrote in message
news:1111415748.421818.304320@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
X-No-Archive: Yes
I have one of those "inverter" type microwave oven made by
Panasonic. It uses an inverter instead of the traditional iron core
transformer to power the magnetron.
I just noticed that this thing draws a lot more power & current than it
should. The manual specifies "120V AC 12.7A, 1460W" and 1,300W cooking
power.
Measurement with either true RMS or regular ammeter shows actual
current draw is around 16A. Based on the specifications given, the
power factor comes to around 0.956. Given that, it probably has a
harmonics correction so the reading from even an ordinary ammeter
should be reasonably accurate.
One possibility is that the interference from the inverter is causing
the meter to read abnormally high but given rather unrealistic
specifications, I believe my result is reasonable.
It is rather unrealistic that the calculated system efficinecy is
89%(1300W output over 1460W input). 89% efficinecy is unrealistically
high when you factor in the loss in drive circuit and magnetron. More
realistic answer is: A.) the unit is drawing more than the rated power.
B.)the unit is putting out less than the rating C.) combination of
both.
Assuming my measurement is correct, what's the permissibility of
something with NEMA-15P plug drawing in excess of 15A for more than a
split second?
If you have an inveter microwave oven, I'd like to know how your unit's
current draw compares to the official specification.
Yes. Use the UK (original) version:How do I go back to the way my page looked before Beta version came in force;
I find this to be so tiring at reading lots of threads in this Beta style.
Anybodyelse feels the same?
Cheers.