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Years ago one would simply dial 4191 or 1191, hang up, and woit for theinteruser wrote:
Hi ,
I have a 2 floor home and I would like and make an intercom using the
existing telephone circuit. Since every room has a telephone the
problem is making the telephones ringing. How would I do that?
Buy one of the newer multi-handset cordless phone systems. I know the
Panasonics let you call from the base or any handset to any other
handset. The sell some models with three to five handset capability,
but most come with only two handsets and you must buy the additional
units seperately.
I use this in my home as a one-line telephone, and three-station
intercom ( base plus two handsets )
Definitely check the zener diode ZDB01 near the vertical chip ICB02
like James says. If its open in the forward direction then the main
power supply is overvoltaging and you must replace the 4n35 (ICA04).
And check RB30 and RB35, both 1 ohm 2 watt resistors in the vertical
section. If the zener was bad its likely ICB02 is bad also.
Z
Paint half the shaft black and epoxy a reflective opto sensor or an IR LEDcould u please suggest me a sensor ,to measure the speed of the rotor
in an easiest way
Or epoxy a small magnet and use a hall sensor.Paint half the shaft black and epoxy a reflective opto sensor or an IR LED
and photodiode next to each other on top of the motor so you get a pulse
every time the shaft goes around.
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6fYbe.12995$Nc.6863@trnddc09...
Paint half the shaft black and epoxy a reflective opto sensor or an IR
LED
and photodiode next to each other on top of the motor so you get a pulse
every time the shaft goes around.
Or epoxy a small magnet and use a hall sensor.
--
The magnet has been used on autos for a long time. You could also drill theThat would work too, though I would be concerned the magnet would fly off
or
cause vibration. It is less sensitive to dirt though. A metal gear or
other
toothed object on the shaft (cooling fan in the motor?) and a reluctance
pickup might work too.
I tried resoldering the transistors on that board.
The three transistors only have two of the pins soldered. And the
middle pin is snipped off on all three. I think the one that is cut is
the collector.
I really hope that did the trick otherwise im not too sure where to go
next.
I will know soon.
How do I find the vertical out IC ?
The main board in the tv will be a pain to get out. Many wires soldered
onto it.
- Eric
PF790 and a 22" P220F with the same problem. Board layouts are almost"your name here" <no@thanks.com> wrote in message
news:d4osdq$jh7$1@news.doit.wisc.edu...
Definitely check the zener diode ZDB01 near the vertical chip ICB02
like James says. If its open in the forward direction then the main
power supply is overvoltaging and you must replace the 4n35 (ICA04).
And check RB30 and RB35, both 1 ohm 2 watt resistors in the vertical
section. If the zener was bad its likely ICB02 is bad also.
Z
Did they just get a bad batch of 4n35's or what? I've fixed a pile of
Viewsonics with that same exact problem.
That must be the case. It spans several models, too. We,ve had a 17"
Same here, I've come across it in the 17, 19 and 22" models, first time itDid they just get a bad batch of 4n35's or what? I've fixed a pile of
Viewsonics with that same exact problem.
That must be the case. It spans several models, too. We,ve had a 17"
PF790 and a 22" P220F with the same problem. Board layouts are almost
identical.
Ziggy
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:n3_be.6443$Yc.5945@trnddc06...
That would work too, though I would be concerned the magnet would fly
off
or
cause vibration. It is less sensitive to dirt though. A metal gear or
other
toothed object on the shaft (cooling fan in the motor?) and a
reluctance
pickup might work too.
The magnet has been used on autos for a long time. You could also drill
the
shaft and drive a roll pin through it - 2 pulses per revolution to a
reluctance pickup. But we still don't know why the OP wants to do this.
--
No speaker output from Sony STR-DE415 receiver (after lightnin')
The story I got was this unit and others were on when lightning struck.
The fused powerstrip they were plugged into blew it's fuse.
All the units (receiver, cd player, cassette) power on
and seem to work, except I can't get any output from the speakers,
either A or B. I have tested the speakers from another source, and the
work. I've also tested the line out from the STR-DE415, and it works.
I couldn't find any fuses or anything inside the STR-DE415.
Any ideas what needs to be replaced?
thanks
mrsoft99@yahoo.com
LA7837 is the vertical output, LA7680 is your jungle IC. Pin 27 of theThis tv has these ICs: LA7680 and LA7837 and I don't think they provide
any drive to the HOT;
Does it still require unplugging to come back on? If so, it may be theThis set is driving me nuts. The customer says that for the past 2 or 3
months the set would just shut off sometimes. He found that he could
not turn it on again unless he unplugged it for a few seconds. Finally
it quit completely. I found the 6.3A line fuse open, but it wasn't
blackened like it would be from a dead short. This fuse had a minute
break in it. I have seen this happen before where there was no apparent
reason. I checked for any obvious shorts ans I found none. I then
touched up any suspicious soldering (although I didn't really see
anything suspicious), and I replaced the fuse with a 4.0 amp because
the 6.3's were in the van and thats what I had nearby. The set came on
looked great and the fuse has held up fine, however three times during
the course of 2 hours the set has shut down for no reason. I haven't
seen it actually happen so I have no specifics to share. I try to power
up again and just like the customer said, it does nothing until you
pull the plug for a few seconds and then retry. Set comes back on and
again plays for an undetermined amount of time before it decides to
once again shut down. I have no schematic for this thing and I was
wondering if anyone might have any information on this symptom relating
to this model? Or might someone perhaps have a schematic for this
chassis that they could share with me? Thanks very much for any
assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
I have a Sony SL-HF900 SuperBeta VCR that works fine except the
playback is B&W instead of color. Tapes recorded on this VCR playback
in color on my other Betas, but known color tapes always play back in
B&W on the machine in question. I don't have the service manual for
this VCR. It would be nice to at least identify which part of which
board (e.g., the video board) is faulty.
This set is driving me nuts. The customer says that for the past 2 or 3
months the set would just shut off sometimes. He found that he could
not turn it on again unless he unplugged it for a few seconds. Finally
it quit completely. I found the 6.3A line fuse open, but it wasn't
blackened like it would be from a dead short. This fuse had a minute
break in it. I have seen this happen before where there was no apparent
reason. I checked for any obvious shorts ans I found none. I then
touched up any suspicious soldering (although I didn't really see
anything suspicious), and I replaced the fuse with a 4.0 amp because
the 6.3's were in the van and thats what I had nearby. The set came on
looked great and the fuse has held up fine, however three times during
the course of 2 hours the set has shut down for no reason. I haven't
seen it actually happen so I have no specifics to share. I try to power
up again and just like the customer said, it does nothing until you
pull the plug for a few seconds and then retry. Set comes back on and
again plays for an undetermined amount of time before it decides to
once again shut down. I have no schematic for this thing and I was
wondering if anyone might have any information on this symptom relating
to this model? Or might someone perhaps have a schematic for this
chassis that they could share with me? Thanks very much for any
assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
They're OK for a lot of jobs. Another choice is PSC.Speed regulation on a shaded pole motor I'm assuming, though they're
usually
used in fans and such that don't need regulation but it shouldn't be hard
to
provide it.
Although they're horribly inneficient I do like many aspects of shaded
pole
motors.
The FMP-G5FS is available from http://www.bdent.com for $5.10.Looking for source or cross for damper diode FMPG5F
On 28 Apr 2005 13:51:51 -0700, "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com"
captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:
This set is driving me nuts. The customer says that for the past 2 or 3
months the set would just shut off sometimes. He found that he could
not turn it on again unless he unplugged it for a few seconds. Finally
it quit completely. I found the 6.3A line fuse open, but it wasn't
blackened like it would be from a dead short. This fuse had a minute
break in it. I have seen this happen before where there was no apparent
reason. I checked for any obvious shorts ans I found none. I then
touched up any suspicious soldering (although I didn't really see
anything suspicious), and I replaced the fuse with a 4.0 amp because
the 6.3's were in the van and thats what I had nearby. The set came on
looked great and the fuse has held up fine, however three times during
the course of 2 hours the set has shut down for no reason. I haven't
seen it actually happen so I have no specifics to share. I try to power
up again and just like the customer said, it does nothing until you
pull the plug for a few seconds and then retry. Set comes back on and
again plays for an undetermined amount of time before it decides to
once again shut down. I have no schematic for this thing and I was
wondering if anyone might have any information on this symptom relating
to this model? Or might someone perhaps have a schematic for this
chassis that they could share with me? Thanks very much for any
assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
I see a lot of Panasonics with bad soldering on the power supply
regulator IC. You should stop using it until it's fixed or you may
cause more damage.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005
acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005