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Check the trunk/rear seat/floorboard area for exhaust gas entry path.We have a 1993 Caprice Classic which was formally a New Hampshire state
police car. We bought it at state auction in 1998 and my wife drove it
with no problems up until about 2 years ago. All of a sudden her
headaches seemed to come on gradually and they seemed to occur every
time she drove the car. We suspected that it could be Co., and inasmuch
as the muffler was leaking a slight amount anyway we went ahead and
replaced the entire exhaust system. I personally checked it carefully
for leaks afterwards and ascertained that there were none. She drove
the car afterwards and almost instantly got a headache. A mechanic
friend suggested that perhaps it could be dampness causing mold. He
gave me a 120V ionizer which I was to place in the car, and plug in
overnight with the windows closed. He cautioned me though not to use it
if the carpets were wet. I first checked the carpets and did indeed
find them wet especially on the front drivers side. We pulled the
carpet and to my disappointment we found that a major portion of the
floor under the pedal area, going into the corner post and running up
the firewall was rusted through badly. New Hampshire uses an
unbelievable amount of road salt in the Winter and cars are destroyed
by this. We did not use the ionizer. It was a great deal of work but
the carpet and padding were both removed and the area was treated with
Por15, sheet metal was replaced, the floor was sealed, new carpet was
installed and the underside was treated as well. I then borrowed the
ionizer again and used it for a full 24 hours. Upon opening the door
afterwards the car really smelled "fresh" and I was hopeful that we had
resolved the problem. But still the headaches came. We did have a
slight residual smell from the Por15 and there was of course that
unmistakeable new carpet smell that only fades with time, so I thought
maybe I had created a new problem. So for the whole winter the car just
sat. This spring I got it out, and upon opening it up noted that there
was no residual smell left. The carpets were dry and I had my wife
drive it two miles and back and she again got a headache. They seem to
start at the top of her head and just go on from there. I mentioned
this to my mechanic friend again and he suggested that it could still
be mold perhaps in the heaing and cooling ducts. I know that moisture
does collect in there and rots the blower resistors out. (we replaced
the resistor in ours already). So he suggested that I take full
strenght bleach in a spray bottle and while the engine is running with
the blower on spray the bleach into the cowl vents. I sprayed about a
quart while working the controls between heat and AC. I also sprayed
the bleach into the vents from the inside of the car as well and also
onto the padding that is still up on the firewall. This is a foam
material and was not replaced but it is very dry. I kept the windows
closed while doing this and the inside of the car smelled really
strong, like swimming pool shock after a few minutes and even the next
day it still did. I would have hoped that would have killed any mold
that might have still been in there. I have driven the car since and
have run it in vent position as well as heat and AC and all the
chlorine smell is now gone. This afternoon my wife and I went out to
the car and just sat in it for 10 minutes with the doors open. The
engine was off. We were listening to the radio and she was reading the
paper. I was hopeful until after about 15 minutes she mentioned that
another headache was coming on again. With the front doors open and the
engine off! I have had many people ride in this car and she is the only
one who can not be near it. This car looks and runs great. I really
want to keep it. Of course I'd like my wife to be around too. The car
has given us great service but I am at my wits end with this problem.
Does ANYONE have any ideas? I appoligize for the long winded story but
I wanted to try to provide all the facts. Thanks for any suggestions.
Lenny Stein.
The "Rongrossi" messages you are complaining about are posted by aThe email is good in the aol domain. If you want to continue this you
can get ahold of me. ZZactly. We can also take it to another NG if you
know where. A Christian NG would not ne appropriate, I don't want to
offend those who don't offend me. ( not bad for a heathen animal eh ? )
I would really prefer a NG instead of email, I want to be public about
this.
JURB
While most induction motors are run at nearly constant speed, for shaded"anilmanual@gmail.com" bravely wrote to "All" (24 Apr 05 21:20:34)
--- on the heady topic of "AC shaded pole single phase induction pole motor"
an> From: anilmanual@gmail.com
an> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:46513
an> Sir/Madam
an> i have a dayton a.c. shaded pole single phase motor with 1/150HP,
an> 3000
an> RPM, 230 V, 60 Hz frequency and Full Load Amps
an> 0.24 . I want to control the torque of this motor through program.For
an> that i have feedback from motor is current to the motor . I want to
an> control the torque use this current as feedback.for that I need a
an> equation connecting torque and the current.
RPM of this motor type is dependant on frequency. Altering the voltage
will only give approximately 10% practical change in torque.
Like all spares, really. Or consumables. Ink jet cartridges etc.The primary reason for proprietary batteries is to keep the PROFIT up.
I read somewhere that there's more $ profit in a replacement battery
than in the orignal discounted laptop.
If you say so. I was more thinking of power tools that use the normalIf every device used the high-tech (currently LiIon) equivalent of the
AA battery that is available at any store, your laptop battery would
cost $10.
Never had those in the UK that I knew about. It was economical to replaceBack to the original question.
About 3 years ago, there was a store popping up on every other corner
to recondition your laptop/drill/radio battery. They charged about half
the price of a new pack and guaranteed some percentage of full capacity.
Those stores are ALL gone. That should tell you something about the
results.
WELL, almost all LiIon packs use the normal 18650 cell.In article <426C4BC4.70301@netscape.net>,
mike <spamme0@netscape.net> wrote:
The primary reason for proprietary batteries is to keep the PROFIT up.
I read somewhere that there's more $ profit in a replacement battery
than in the orignal discounted laptop.
Like all spares, really. Or consumables. Ink jet cartridges etc.
If every device used the high-tech (currently LiIon) equivalent of the
AA battery that is available at any store, your laptop battery would
cost $10.
If you say so. I was more thinking of power tools that use the normal
Sub-C cell. To replace those with *decent* ones can cost more than the
entire tool.
Back to the original question.
About 3 years ago, there was a store popping up on every other corner
to recondition your laptop/drill/radio battery. They charged about half
the price of a new pack and guaranteed some percentage of full capacity.
Those stores are ALL gone. That should tell you something about the
results.
Never had those in the UK that I knew about. It was economical to replace
mobile phone cells on a DIY basis with like for like quality, but not
things like cheap power tools. Although the performance of those could
usually be improved with better than OEM cells.
I'm not sure about 18650, but tagged sub-C which can be soldered byIf you say so. I was more thinking of power tools that use the normal
Sub-C cell. To replace those with *decent* ones can cost more than the
entire tool.
WELL, almost all LiIon packs use the normal 18650 cell.
Problem is that they're packaged in proprietary plastic and you
need a tiny spot welder to replace 'em. Not to mention that you
have a very difficult time buying individual cells.
If the consumer could go down to the corner drugstore and pick up
sub-C cells for their power tool or 18650s for their laptop, they would
be much cheaper.
Heh heh - could be.If consumers weren't so stupid and could follow simple
directions, we wouldn't need multiple layers of stupid-proof safety
protection...or nearly as many lawyers.
Technology ain't the problem...it's all about the Benjamins.
I have a Hitachi CT4532 45" projection TV, and getting the following
behavior. When the TV is turned on from cold it usually starts
squeezing the picture in from the top and bottom within a few minutes.
It will then shrink a little more then the picture will disappear then
it has to be turned off for 15 mins or so (it varies) before you can
try again. BUT sometimes it will work without trouble and will work
100% until it is turned off again. And it worked for more then a week
without trouble until it was turned off. AND if the picture is
squeezing in a little bit (1-2" from the top and bottom) I can usually
change channels until the squeezing stops and then it will work fine
until turned off again. When changing the channels it does not slowly
disappear it will all of a sudden be working. A note that may help, the
horizontal output transistor has been replaced twice in the past but
this problem did not exist at those times. It came around about 2
months after it was replaced the second time. I don't have the
equipment to test the fly back .... Could it be anything else? Its way
to big to take somewhere and I cannot afford a tech right now as I'm
going to be going back to school for a MSc. Please help ..
- Eric
If the windings are indeed wound on a magnetic core, then the shape ofThis was traced to an oscillating 24V supply powering, among other
things, its objective lens control board and the objective lens
itself. We found both ends of the objective lens (basically an
elaborate coil of insulated copper wire wound on a conical steel(?)
core) winding were at ~1 ohm to the the instrument chassis while the
coil itself ~2ohm across.
"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> writes:
"anilmanual@gmail.com" bravely wrote to "All" (24 Apr 05 21:20:34)
--- on the heady topic of "AC shaded pole single phase induction pole
motor"
an> From: anilmanual@gmail.com
an> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:46513
an> Sir/Madam
an> i have a dayton a.c. shaded pole single phase motor with 1/150HP,
an> 3000
an> RPM, 230 V, 60 Hz frequency and Full Load Amps
an> 0.24 . I want to control the torque of this motor through
program.For
an> that i have feedback from motor is current to the motor . I want to
an> control the torque use this current as feedback.for that I need a
an> equation connecting torque and the current.
RPM of this motor type is dependant on frequency. Altering the voltage
will only give approximately 10% practical change in torque.
While most induction motors are run at nearly constant speed, for shaded
pole motors with a light load like a fan, the torque and thus speed can
vary
from near zero to almost synchronous speed based on input voltage. I use
a
Variac to control my window fan. It works very well.
What's it's function?Anyone know the value of RH34 in a viewsonic P220f. It appears to be
around 20 ohms and a couple of watts? Is this a fusable or just
standard film resisitor?
thanks,
--Sometimes when I use the anhydrous isopropyl in the shop she complains,
or smells like paint thinner will bring one on too but they would
affect most people I'm sure. She is pre menopausal and perhaps that may
have something to do with this. I don't know. Whats so frustrating is
that as a technician I repair things for a living and this is something
that I just can't seem to fix. Lenny
Try to find an old book, the "GE SCR Manual". See alsoSir/Madam
i have a dayton a.c. shaded pole single phase motor with 1/150HP,
3000
RPM, 230 V, 60 Hz frequency and Full Load Amps
0.24 . I want to control the torque of this motor through program.For
that i have feedback from motor is current to the motor . I want to
control the torque use this current as feedback.for that I need a
equation connecting torque and the current.
I tried this once with as a mod to drying fans in a photographic print"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wk6mqinc5.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> writes:
"anilmanual@gmail.com" bravely wrote to "All" (24 Apr 05 21:20:34)
--- on the heady topic of "AC shaded pole single phase induction
pole
motor"
an> From: anilmanual@gmail.com
an> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:46513
an> Sir/Madam
an> i have a dayton a.c. shaded pole single phase motor with
1/150HP,
an> 3000
an> RPM, 230 V, 60 Hz frequency and Full Load Amps
an> 0.24 . I want to control the torque of this motor through
program.For
an> that i have feedback from motor is current to the motor . I want
to
an> control the torque use this current as feedback.for that I need a
an> equation connecting torque and the current.
RPM of this motor type is dependant on frequency. Altering the voltage
will only give approximately 10% practical change in torque.
While most induction motors are run at nearly constant speed, for shaded
pole motors with a light load like a fan, the torque and thus speed can
vary
from near zero to almost synchronous speed based on input voltage. I
use
a
Variac to control my window fan. It works very well.
As will a simple light dimmer in most cases, though some don't like
driving
inductive loads. Speed controllers for shaded pole motors are widely
available and they're nothing more than a triac dimmer circuit.
Have you tried contacting Dick Smith spare parts for a service manual?Anyone got schematics on this TV can they please tell me where the
drive to this HOT should be coming from. (Eg. a transistor or IC etc.)
It will make this easier.
Sounds like dry solder joints in the Vertical
Deflection section.Remove the chassis and
inspect the area around the Vertical Out IC.
Resolder all in that area ,whilst in there ESR the
filter caps in the Vert Section.
kip
"Charon" <ebauld@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1114474685.825292.308960@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
I have a Hitachi CT4532 45" projection TV, and getting the following
behavior. When the TV is turned on from cold it usually starts
squeezing the picture in from the top and bottom within a few minutes.
It will then shrink a little more then the picture will disappear then
it has to be turned off for 15 mins or so (it varies) before you can
try again. BUT sometimes it will work without trouble and will work
100% until it is turned off again. And it worked for more then a week
without trouble until it was turned off. AND if the picture is
squeezing in a little bit (1-2" from the top and bottom) I can usually
change channels until the squeezing stops and then it will work fine
until turned off again. When changing the channels it does not slowly
disappear it will all of a sudden be working. A note that may help, the
horizontal output transistor has been replaced twice in the past but
this problem did not exist at those times. It came around about 2
months after it was replaced the second time. I don't have the
equipment to test the fly back .... Could it be anything else? Its way
to big to take somewhere and I cannot afford a tech right now as I'm
going to be going back to school for a MSc. Please help ..
- Eric
Though they will probably have some slighlty modified phase characteristics"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
While most induction motors are run at nearly constant speed, for shaded
pole motors with a light load like a fan, the torque and thus speed can
vary
from near zero to almost synchronous speed based on input voltage. I use
a
Variac to control my window fan. It works very well.
As will a simple light dimmer in most cases, though some don't like driving
inductive loads. Speed controllers for shaded pole motors are widely
available and they're nothing more than a triac dimmer circuit.
Well I've had good results using Shiatsu treatments and a form of
meditation for clients with headaches including migranes. There are
many books on the subject.
On the technical side you might be interested in:
http://www.therionresearch.com/database_migraine.html
http://www.healingwell.com/library/migraines/lappin1.asp
Heard about this pulsed magnetic therapy a while back but haven't seen
anyone market a commercial product.
"Honey would you mind putting this thing on your head while I hook it
up to my freq oscillator?"
Richard
bet the current wiring is a single pair being paralleled throughout theHi ,
I have a 2 floor home and I would like and make an intercom using the
existing telephone circuit. Since every room has a telephone the
problem is making the telephones ringing. How would I do that?
Buy a small PABX on Ebay. You'll probably need to rewire the house as I'll