Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Lee Babcock <leebabcock@rogers.com> wrote:
As for the VGA port, I think you will find it is an EGA. Same socket,
different pinning.
Click to expand...
EGA did NOT have the same socket as VGA...

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.
 
Check out www.diyaudio.com in the forums under 'counterfiet sa1943's ??''
(sic). There's some good info here.

Bob
<maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl> wrote in message
news:3f676$425e390d$82a12456$31925@news2.tudelft.nl...
maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:
Well, I have a batch of those BU2520AX's that look like Philips to a
casual observer, but are not. They may or may not be manufactured as
BU2520AX, so to be on the safe side I am not using them to full specs,
which is okay by me since they are cheap enough. I'd rather have their
manufacturer mark the with a brand name instead of making them look like

That should read "mark them with THEIR brand name", meaning I'd rather
buy some obscure brand that supports its products instead of making them
only look good.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.
Click to expand...
 
Try Apex or Broksonic, real flippin loosers!!
"RonKZ650" <RonKZ650@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113498278.485051.56790@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
This is a rant, hard enough to make a living in this business.
27" Samsung 2003 model, special regulator shorted, no crosses. NLA.
20" Samsung Combo 2002 model, power button broken off. $57 dealer cost
13" Samsung Combo 2002 model, take up reel sensor bad, NLA.
On top of that no Samsung parts distributer has parts that "are"
available however few that actually is, no-one can look up parts
without 2 or 3 days delay. This sucks. Don't buy their crap and expect
repair.
Real productive repairs these Samsungs, some days better off staying
home I think.
Click to expand...
 
In article <1113446187.b66deea15fca474d29cd298180604101@teranews>,
Mark D. Zacharias <spammenot@yis.us> wrote:
Good point. How is the battery life on the Fluke meters?
Click to expand...
I'd say my 179 is good, as it has auto power down. I've never had any
meter where battery life is poor - it's leaving them switched on
accidently which causes the problem.

--
*Is there another word for synonym?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
<maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl> wrote in message
news:225d0$425e3c1a$82a12456$22734@news1.tudelft.nl...
Lee Babcock <leebabcock@rogers.com> wrote:
As for the VGA port, I think you will find it is an EGA. Same socket,
different pinning.

EGA did NOT have the same socket as VGA...
Click to expand...

The confusion is probably that some early multisync VGA-capable monitors did
have the 9 pin connector, and many early VGA boards did as well so they
could drive a CGA or EGA monitor though I think they all had the 15 pin also
to run a VGA.
 
On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 17:28:02 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

"none" <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
news:23275116a96pl9d950c7tambqnsu4jtk3o@4ax.com...

What we need in the consumer end of things is a inkjet printer with an
ink reservoir where all you have to do is just pour ink in and close
the lid.

I've seen after market kits like that (on eBay?) with big external tanks and
thin hoses.
Click to expand...
Really???
Do they make them for any of the Epsons?
I might be interested in ressurecting some of that damn expensive
Epson "pro" junk I've got filling up my storage space if so.
 
I installed one on a B&W HP printer a few years back. Didn't like it
much, and returned it to the store (Wal Mart or one of the CompUSA-type
places, as I recall). ISTR that the hose either wasn't flexible enough,
causing head misalignment, or dragged on something, with the same
result. Today's units might be better.

Bill
=====================

none wrote:
On Tue, 12 Apr 2005 17:28:02 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:


"none" <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
news:23275116a96pl9d950c7tambqnsu4jtk3o@4ax.com...


What we need in the consumer end of things is a inkjet printer with an
ink reservoir where all you have to do is just pour ink in and close
the lid.

I've seen after market kits like that (on eBay?) with big external tanks and
thin hoses.


Really???
Do they make them for any of the Epsons?
I might be interested in ressurecting some of that damn expensive
Epson "pro" junk I've got filling up my storage space if so.
Click to expand...
 
Was the set located near a large magnetic field, speakers etc.... degaussing
may fix it.
Gamer of NC" <treydogg77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113579678.358161.306710@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Rainbow from left corner bottom to the left top corner! yellow /light
pink/light blue colors? Anyone know what the deal is? help ASAP

thanks Trey W
Click to expand...
 
Don`t know the answer to your TV but, only 1 year and junk already, now
I understand when I read, never buy new electronics for hi price, just buy
used and very little price. at least if it breaks you don`t lose much.

<jafreck@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1113576959.878364.226170@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I have a 27" Panasonic TV that I purchased a little over a year ago. I
beleive it is a model CT-27.

Ever since I've had the set the image has looked washed out.

For example... If there is a commercial with a logo onscreen with white
lettering and a slightly darker background... The TV renders them as if
they were both white so you can't read the lettering. When the logo is
faded out at the end of the commercial, you can start to see more
detail in the image for a brief moment.

I have tried adjusting the contrast brightness and color settings to no
avail. I have tried different video cables both RCA and S-VIDEO with no
success. I've even tried an in-line attenuator on the video input, but
it only dims the image, it doesn't correct the problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Drew
Click to expand...
 
Suspect you should do a bit more diagnostic and then post the refined
information. At this point you will only receive other guesses.
"Gamer of NC" <treydogg77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113579678.358161.306710@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Rainbow from left corner bottom to the left top corner! yellow /light
pink/light blue colors? Anyone know what the deal is? help ASAP

thanks Trey W
Click to expand...
 
May be just a minor G2 adjustment to remedy the problem, requiring opening
the set and doing the physical turning of the control. Or did someone crank
the brightness up to max?? Check the settings of the customer adjustable
parameters in the customer video adjustment menu.
"over priced" <O@e.net> wrote in message
news:ndidnUN61fVKvv3fRVn-gw@rogers.com...
Don`t know the answer to your TV but, only 1 year and junk already, now
I understand when I read, never buy new electronics for hi price, just buy
used and very little price. at least if it breaks you don`t lose much.

jafreck@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1113576959.878364.226170@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I have a 27" Panasonic TV that I purchased a little over a year ago. I
beleive it is a model CT-27.

Ever since I've had the set the image has looked washed out.

For example... If there is a commercial with a logo onscreen with white
lettering and a slightly darker background... The TV renders them as if
they were both white so you can't read the lettering. When the logo is
faded out at the end of the commercial, you can start to see more
detail in the image for a brief moment.

I have tried adjusting the contrast brightness and color settings to no
avail. I have tried different video cables both RCA and S-VIDEO with no
success. I've even tried an in-line attenuator on the video input, but
it only dims the image, it doesn't correct the problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
Drew
Click to expand...
 
"Bill Jeffrey" <wjeffreyAT@alum.DOTmit.edu> wrote in message
news:HDR7e.41$A31.5@fed1read03...
I installed one on a B&W HP printer a few years back. Didn't like it
much, and returned it to the store (Wal Mart or one of the CompUSA-type
places, as I recall). ISTR that the hose either wasn't flexible enough,
causing head misalignment, or dragged on something, with the same
result. Today's units might be better.
Click to expand...
I'd suspect you'd need silicone rubber tubing.
--
N
 
Wrong group. Try rec.crafts.metalworking. Lots of guys work on their own
stuff there.
JR

zwickl@prodigy.net wrote:
I have a GE washer that is about 15 years old. It appears that the
bottom transmission seal is leaking. How easy is it to replace this
seal? Does the tansmission need to be removed?
Click to expand...

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
 
VCR Gymnast wrote:
Wouldn't waste the time or money. Will cost you more to (inferiorly)
repair than to buy a new one (less than $30) at Wal-Mart.
Click to expand...
Durn, I must got lost again.

Thought I was reading s.e.repair; but seems I've ended up
in the s.e.fillupthelandfill.send more of your jobs and money
to asia newsgroup.

Ken
 
"JR North" <jasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:5qGdnUZYSoER5f3fRVn-sA@seanet.com...
Wrong group. Try rec.crafts.metalworking. Lots of guys work on their own
stuff there.
JR

zwickl@prodigy.net wrote:
I have a GE washer that is about 15 years old. It appears that the
bottom transmission seal is leaking. How easy is it to replace this
seal? Does the tansmission need to be removed?



--
Click to expand...

What do you mean wrong group? Lots of *us* work on our own stuff too!

Replacing the seal is likely not too hard, nor is removing the transmission.
First call an appliance shop and see if a new seal is available.
 
"over priced" <O@e.net> wrote in message
news:l82dnYzAmrAGvv3fRVn-qw@rogers.com...
Was the set located near a large magnetic field, speakers etc....
degaussing
may fix it.
Click to expand...

Degaussing? He said this is a *projection* set, there's no degaussing.
 
<marslee@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113578596.267191.27450@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I want to remove a PLCC chip from motherboard
How to remove it without damaging it?

Does hot air gun work ?
Click to expand...
I've had luck with a heat gun.
 
On 15 Apr 2005 23:05:42 -0700, "Gordo" <gordon.thompson@gmail.com>
wrote:

Am i the only person here crying with laughter?
Click to expand...


I plan on dancing the boogaloo to Sympathy for the Devil.








Greg
http://gregsplace.50megs.com
http://www.picturetrail.com/fugitive1
 
Try this one. http://www.chipquik.com/

It works pretty well for removing devices without damaging board or
device itself.

--Artem

James Sweet wrote:
marslee@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113578596.267191.27450@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I want to remove a PLCC chip from motherboard
How to remove it without damaging it?

Does hot air gun work ?



I've had luck with a heat gun.
Click to expand...
 
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