Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Bob Shuman]

The point I was making is that the Sony designers really skimped here in
their design. This set cost well over $2K and the clock gains about 3
minutes a month on the cheap oscillator they provided rendering the clock
pretty much completely useless. I have a $49 DVD player that synchronizes
it's clock from the local PBS so it is always accurate to the minute. I
have a $30 alarm clock that functions as James describes below using the AC
house current and with a backup oscillator for power loss. It just seems
Sony completely missed the boat here to save a dollar. It can't help but
make any intelligent consumer wonder where else they cut corners on their
top of the line set...

Bob

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:5iG6e.15724$B12.6320@trnddc09...
Why doesn't it? I've used that feature on a microprocessor based clock I
built, it's just a matter of having code that synchronizes timekeeping to
the
AC line when present, and if that goes away it uses a timer interrupt driven
by the CPU's crystal oscillator. The benefit is rock solid long term
timekeeping (better than any crystal oscillator) when power is present
combined with backup that's reasonably accurate for short outages with no
added hardware other than a resistor and capacitor for the AC sync. I've
seen other designs that even autoselect between 50 and 60 Hz, again just
coding, no hardware change. Modern microcontrollers tend to have vast
amounts of memory for what they typically need, there's usually extra space
for cool features like this.

*Many* clock radios and other digital clocks use a very similar arrangement
though most of them use a simple R/C oscillator for the battery backup.

 

[Barney]

"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:7KOdnZhMTqlZIsbfRVn-rg@rogers.com...

Not to be rude, but if your'e a newbie, you probably
shouldn't touch it, as it can be very dangerous to touch,
even if it's been off for a while! Iv'e seen quite a few,
over the years get quite a shock from T.V.'s! But if you
have good sense, & a steady hand, try to solder the power
relay, & also the horizontal drive transformer! Please be carefull!
Rono.

Good advice - particularly the first sentence, which is the only one that he
should act on.

 

[jakdedert]

Johann wrote:

Hello. I have an energizer ER-DVD "universal portable DVD player
battery," for which I have lost the AC adapter. I am frustrated to
find that the battery itself does not say what the voltage, polarity,
or power requirement is. This info also does not seem to be anywhere
on the Energizer web site. Does anyone have one of these batteries,
and would you be willing either to check if the AC adapter has this
info, or to measure the voltage the AC adapter is putting out? I
would be very grateful.

I don't have one; but in a similar circumstance I think I'd just buy an
entir new battery/charger combo, and thus have a spare battery to charge up
while using the original one.

jak

 

[jakdedert]

NSM wrote:

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:gUC6e.47586$vL3.2536@bignews4.bellsouth.net...


If you'd ever had a Casio, you'd probably not have written the above.

Wanna see my dead Casio museum?

Contact me offline...I'd like to *have* your dead Casio museum.

jak

 

[jakdedert]

Bill Jeffrey wrote:

I had a multi-function / multi-button Casio that did this. After I
owned it a few years, I found that I had to press one of the buttons
harder and harder to make it register. I changed the battery, but it
didn't help. This happened over the space of only a few weeks, and
then another button started doing the same thing. I concluded that
the conductive material on the buttons had either worn away or gotten
dirty, and since I couldn't get ready access to the buttons, I
abandoned it.

I'm trying to visualize the arrangement of the buttons. I had the same
problem, but fixed it. IIRC, it involved cleaning out some external gunk on
the pins themselves, which limited full travel.

I remember that the last time (recently) I changed out the battery, I
tweaked the switches on the internal module as well. Mine works perfectly
15+ years later. Of course, it has the old style incandescent backlight,
which is fairly useless...but it 'does' light when I push the button.

jak

Sorry

Bill
------------------------

Mike wrote:

Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works? I only wore it once or
twice before it stopped working. I didn't open it before then or hit
it against something or get it wet. I'm also baffled as to why the
original battery is still working some 13 years later when Casio says
it should last 5 years. I've been thinking of buying a new watch
similar to this one but I'm hesitant to since I had such bad luck
with
this one. I was just hoping that maybe it would be easier and cheaper
for someone to fix it now with all this new technology then it was
years ago.



"Bram Stolk" <bram2.stolk@wanadoo.nl> wrote in message
news:<425a260a$0$94711$dbd4d001@news.wanadoo.nl>...

it is a tricky way but it can be done...
remove the clockworks completely (that's including the plastic
casing) from its housing
separate the plastic frame from the clock
remove the little screw you spoke about earlier
look at the edges of the big battery clip holder, they latch to the
clock housing at three locations,
pry-off the cover plate...Presto battery can be removed. Before you
reassemble in reverse order make sure that the pushbuttons in the
housing can move freely, lube with light oil if necessay or remove
them completely to remove sweat and dirth

Unless you have some emotional ties with this watch donot even
start all this work and replace it by a new one...


"testortool" <mbillings@comcast.net> schreef in bericht
news:115jjnj2of1i744@corp.supernews.com...

A good jewelry / watch shop will change out the battery for a few
bucks in labor if you haven't already broken something.

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504100929.b290000@posting.google.com...


I have a Casio digital technical watch that seems to be broken. I
was hoping that taking the battery out may reset it so it will
work right. Unfortunately, I can't get the battery out. I was
hoping
someone here might be able to help me.

 

[jakdedert]

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:

NSM wrote:
"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504110805.129d5bf6@posting.google.com...
Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works?

Because it's a Casio!

I'm still using the Casio that I found lying in the street around 15
years ago. I've put several new bands on it and cleaned the gunk
out of the pins which activate the switches, as well as changing out
several batteries. I've bought--or been given--several watches in
the intervening years; but this is the only one which seems to keep
working. I wear it 24/7, even in the shower and pool. It gains
about a minute/month when on my wrist, and loses about the same if
left in a drawer...undoubtedly due to temperature variation.

If you'd ever had a Casio, you'd probably not have written the
above. When this one finally bites it, I'll most certainly buy
another. It's the only piece of technology that I've used daily for
this long, which still works.

Same here. I paid 50 cents for my Casio at a garage sale. I think
it's still on the original battery after at least 8 years. I gave up
on the
band and just keep it in my pocket. It's one of those with 32 phone
numbers, multiple alarms, stop watch, timer, dual time zones, etc.
I have a spare that has the calculator. ;-)

I wash mine every time I wash my body <g> It stays on my arm except to
clean underneath....

It doesn't have any 'fancy' features...basic alarm, stopwatch, calender.
What it 'does' have is a display which shows *all* of the time/calender
information at a glance...no button pushing: time, am/pm, date & day of
week. I only have to keep in my head what year it is.<G>

Some day I'll find another like it, with bigger digits (and a better
backlight). Fifteen years ago, I could read all of it a bit more easily.
:-(

jak

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/ Repair | Main Table of Contents:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror
Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the
excessive traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line.
Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Michael Black]

"jakdedert" (jdedert@bellsouth.net) writes:

I'm trying to visualize the arrangement of the buttons. I had the same
problem, but fixed it. IIRC, it involved cleaning out some external gunk on
the pins themselves, which limited full travel.

Yes, this has happened to me too. It's not all that different from

the gunk that gets inside the remote control, except in the case of
the watch it's getting in the way of the mechanical action rather than
the switch itself. I think I took out the module, and then applied
some rubbing alchohol to the switch actuators in the case.

Though given that the original poster says the buttons never worked
from shortly after he got it, I'm not sure when there'd have been a
chance to accumulate the gunk.

Michael

 

[NSM]

"none" <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
news:23275116a96pl9d950c7tambqnsu4jtk3o@4ax.com...

What we need in the consumer end of things is a inkjet printer with an
ink reservoir where all you have to do is just pour ink in and close
the lid.

I've seen after market kits like that (on eBay?) with big external tanks and
thin hoses.
--
N

 

[NSM]

<dewdrops@2die4.com> wrote in message
news:1112766665.953402.146890@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

i plan on using it for vacuum distillation. it is a "lube less" pump.
it says to clean it out with solvent whil it is running.

Interesting. My first thought for that would have been a venturi pump run
off a faucet.

These mechanical pumps I think of for purging refrigeration systems.
--
N

 

[Robert Miles]

<JavaDude_MSN225@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113329153.570747.286390@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

http://www.moviefever.com/movie121 << Awesome Movie!
You can reply with your comments
about the movie if you would like.

Watch out - someone in another newsgroup where it was posted

said this was a virus.

 

[CRaSH]

Robert Miles wrote:

Watch out - someone in another newsgroup where it was posted
said this was a virus.

Well thanks a bunch for passing it on...............

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On 12 Apr 2005 15:02:34 -0700, wayman5000@yahoo.com wrote:

Can someone please help me out and inform me of where the power
relay & horizontal drive transformer are on a Sharp 27-inch and what
these components look like? The specific model in question is 27G-S60.


Thanks.

The power relay's coil is fed by the uP, and its contacts switch the
rectified DC B+ to the FBT.

The horizontal drive transformer feeds drive pulses to the HOT from
the horizontal drive transistor, fed from the jungle IC.

If you don't understand what I just told you, please at least read
some here

http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/

before attempting to go further. If you have electronics experience
but just don't know the insides of a TV, you may get enough
information from the web site to figure out what you want to know.

Tom

 

[Art]

RF input works ok but AVIO does not function? Suspect anything from poor
solder connections at the physical RCA jacks all the way up to the AV switch
ic. Time to do some in depth troubleshooting.
"Gamer of NC" <treydogg77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113350774.549486.191180@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I have a 32" zenith tv made in 1998 the RCA video in just went out the
only thing that comes through is red/black you can barely see what
coming through???? The cable works fine but when I play DVD/PLAYSTATION
it very dark only red/black?

help ASAP

THANKS TREY W

 

[Art]

If that information is too much to digest the next best suggestion is to
have it professionally serviced.
"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:htho5159g6cd3a7msnd2sq0gb3uppo519t@4ax.com...

On 12 Apr 2005 15:02:34 -0700, wayman5000@yahoo.com wrote:

Can someone please help me out and inform me of where the power
relay & horizontal drive transformer are on a Sharp 27-inch and what
these components look like? The specific model in question is 27G-S60.


Thanks.

The power relay's coil is fed by the uP, and its contacts switch the
rectified DC B+ to the FBT.

The horizontal drive transformer feeds drive pulses to the HOT from
the horizontal drive transistor, fed from the jungle IC.

If you don't understand what I just told you, please at least read
some here

http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/

before attempting to go further. If you have electronics experience
but just don't know the insides of a TV, you may get enough
information from the web site to figure out what you want to know.

Tom

 

[James Sweet]

<dave21108@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113364762.567896.180850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Got A view sonic moniter A70F that the picture is sharp as can be.
about 45sec later at the snap of a finger way out of focus. then about
a min later sharp as can be again. instant out and in of focus. does
this cold or hot all day. not a bad solder joint for hitting/tapping
the moniter does nothing. not a slow drift its instent. any clue???. I
would like to fix it not buy a new one. any clue Guys.

Thanks for any help or idea you guys may have.

DAVE

Probably either a bad flyback transformer or bad tube.

 

[Jumpster Jiver]

Long wrote:

I would like to ask everybody for an advice.

The cassette housing assembly (cassette compartment)
of my Sony camcorder CCD-TVR15 (Video8-XR) can not
keep closing. When I press to close it, it will go
down and close normally, but it gently pops up again
after few seconds. The problem happens either
with or without inserting a tape. There is nothing
stuck inside.

Please advise me what's wrong with my camcorder and
how to fix it.

Thank you very much in advance.

There are many possible causes for this problem. Some of the mechanical
possibilities are:
Broken or mis-aligned gears,
Dirty or loose mode switch,
Broken or loose belt,
and more.

Some of the electronic possibilities include:
A small crack in one of the circuit boards,
Damaged components on the boards, especially capacitors which have a
habit of going bad and leaking corrosive fluid onto the board,
Torn or cracked ribbon cables - these connect the mechanism to the
boards and connect the boards to each other.

The camera needs to be disassembled and diagnosed to determine which
part of the circuit is telling the door to open and why it is doing
that. Then the problem can be corrected only by either replacing the
defective parts or by realigning the parts that are out of their correct
position.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 23:08:53 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> put finger to
keyboard and composed:

"Bill Jeffrey" <wjeffreyAT@alum.DOTmit.edu> wrote in message
news:_WC6e.38667$Xs.37009@fed1read03...
I had a multi-function / multi-button Casio that did this. After I
owned it a few years, I found that I had to press one of the buttons
harder and harder to make it register. I changed the battery, but it
didn't help. This happened over the space of only a few weeks, and then
another button started doing the same thing. I concluded that the
conductive material on the buttons had either worn away or gotten dirty,
and since I couldn't get ready access to the buttons, I abandoned it.

Yep. My buddy and I both got Casio watches that had a full
scientific/programmers calculator built in, but they both died as the
buttons failed.

I had a Casio scientific calculator watch about 20 years ago. I think
it lasted about seven years and failed for the same reason.

I also had a Casio organiser (SF5300) that died when the flex cable
failed.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Barney]

<dave21108@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113364762.567896.180850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Got A view sonic moniter A70F that the picture is sharp as can be.
about 45sec later at the snap of a finger way out of focus. then about
a min later sharp as can be again. instant out and in of focus. does
this cold or hot all day. not a bad solder joint for hitting/tapping
the moniter does nothing. not a slow drift its instent. any clue???. I
would like to fix it not buy a new one. any clue Guys.

Thanks for any help or idea you guys may have.

DAVE

The focus adjustment is probably a pot which is an integral part of the line
output transformer, and it could be that this pot is causing the problem.
Try cleaning it by spraying with contact cleaner and then turning it rapidly
back and forwards (with the monitor off, of course). Afterwards turn the
monitor on and set up the focus with the pot - take care, though, there are
some very high voltages around that area.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

mszaloczy@freemail.hu wrote:

Hi all,
I have an Onkyo dx-6750 integra cd player, which I purcased as
defective. I cleaned it and set it up with an oscilloscope, the
transport is perfect now. Nice eye pattern, nice TE and FE signals,
seeks fast, no skipping, no problems at all, nice sound - but with
original cds only. When I try to play a cd-r disc, the transport still
reads perfectly but the sound is distorted. If I take a look at the
audio signal with the scope I see a somewhat "stepped" signal.
Now, I just can't see if it's the transport or the digital circuits
causing the problem. It's unlikely the transport because there are no
signs of any difficulties with reading the data. And it's unlikely the
digital circuits because once the data is read off of the disc I can't
see how the rest of the circuits can make difference between different
discs.
Any ideas?
m127

Sometimes it makes a difference what speed the CD-R was recorded at. (12X,
24X, etc) You could try CD-R's which were recorded at a lower speed and see
if that makes a difference.

I have found this to be especially true of players which are Philips based.
Since your model is not listed in my American Onkyo servicers' website, I am
unable to examine the technical data.


Mark Z.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

P.S.

There are some "silver" CD-R's you could try.

There may not be anything you can do to get it to play your existing CD-R's.


Mark Z.