Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[James Sweet]

<twags6@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113193739.452516.250060@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Hi, I have a zenith projection tv, model pvy5265dt, that i got a year
or two ago for free. The guy said the thing might be fixable. I
tested it out with a vcr and the results were that the audio works
fine, but theres no picture. I pulled the back off to look at the
tubes, and they dont even light.

It'd be really nice to get this working, cause its either that or it
gets junked. Anybody have any suggestions on what the cause may be?

Thanks

Trevor

Are the heaters glowing in the tube necks?

 

[Bram Stolk]

it is a tricky way but it can be done...
remove the clockworks completely (that's including the plastic casing) from
its housing
separate the plastic frame from the clock
remove the little screw you spoke about earlier
look at the edges of the big battery clip holder, they latch to the clock
housing at three locations,
pry-off the cover plate...Presto battery can be removed. Before you
reassemble in reverse order make sure that the pushbuttons in the housing
can move freely, lube with light oil if necessay or remove them completely
to remove sweat and dirth

Unless you have some emotional ties with this watch donot even start all
this work and replace it by a new one...


"testortool" <mbillings@comcast.net> schreef in bericht
news:115jjnj2of1i744@corp.supernews.com...

A good jewelry / watch shop will change out the battery for a few bucks in
labor if you haven't already broken something.

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504100929.b290000@posting.google.com...

I have a Casio digital technical watch that seems to be broken. I was
hoping that taking the battery out may reset it so it will work right.
Unfortunately, I can't get the battery out. I was hoping
someone here might be able to help me.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

The point of my "tirade" was obviously missed. That is, part of the job of
any decent tech these days should be to do internet research. Asking
questions is not a problem and I do not have a problem answering them and
helping other techs, even consumers, as my postings demonstrate. I would
not even post a question, however, without doing the basic searching first.
I have more respect for YOUR time than that, and am more professional than
to expect others to do my work for me. It is not as if the info was not
available to you.

A few things to consider:

I did not dangle a carrot. I gave the info that there was a mod and the
chip description from memory and assumed that you could do a little simple
searching for the details, like I would have to do if I needed the same
info.
Your last message was just signed Lenny, and I did not recognize you as a
tech. I responded to someone else's post, if YOU would notice from the
reply, and do not make a practice of going back to the original post when I
have something to contribute that does not require it. I read the usenet
groups intermittently exactly because there are more than just techs here.
I don't recall every mod, nor keep the info at hand at home.
A quick google search shows the info is available on the following:
network54.com
techassist listserve
wa6ati.com
euras.com
All but the last one have archives that are searchable to some degree for
free. Techassist has a great site with tips and other stuff available for a
pittance in a much more organized form than the freelists archives, but the
info comes up in a google search on this matter. Searching google with
"mitsubishi cs35607" gets this from techassist via the freelist archives
with just a few links checked:

replace ic6f01 part no.264p045040 and install a diode1s2471m with the anode
connected to the anode of d6xa1 and the cathode connected to the
cathode of d6f04

I don't think pointing out that you could have done that 2 minutes of
looking yourself is insulting your intelligence. It just points out that
you are either lazy or inconsiderate. Now go fix the set with the info that
I found FOR YOU.

Leonard



<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113198390.862170.303790@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Leonard, I am not anonymous. I gave my name and company name in the
very first post. If YOU had taken the the time to read it before you
had written your unfortunate tirade you might have noticed that. I've
been a participant in this NG for many years. Just for the record most
of us are running shops here, so you are not in the minority. What you
are alone in however is being a person who instead of wanting to help a
fellow tech, you would rather insult their intellegence. I help people
too when I have the answer to a question. I don't dangle a carrot in
front of their nose with half a story. Just how many times have you
seen me ask for assistance in this column this year anyway? You would
think my sole mission in life was to waste your precious time. It just
so happens, and just for your information I did do an online search
for this problem, and gee whiz but I'm so sorry that I didn't find the
answer, and subsequently put you to all this trouble sir. I really
wouldn't have asked in the first place if I really didn't need the
help, but you have my sincere appologies for bothering you. Please,
don't bother to "help" me any more. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

 

[Wayne Tiffany]

The ones I have played with are just that - a 3 layer setup. The middle has
holes and the top & bottom conduct when pressed together. Carbon type
traces are the conduction medium.

WT

"AshTray700" <ashtray700@aol.com> wrote in message
news:284bba7889407fc347bac2e8099b70f2@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

im not sure which design you have, some are three layers of plastic the
middle one containing holes when key pushed it makes the outer two layers
connect, what i think you have is the type that is in alot of things these
days.
my only knowledge of hall effect is in automobiles and if im right i think
there is a sensor that picks up on the magnetism, but yours i think has
the interwoven copper tracings on the board/film and the little rubber pad
has some sort of black disk underneath it, when the disk touches the
coppertracings it completes the circut, how it works im not sure, but
there is no processor needed to detect the signal, you could feed an led
lamp of off it and it would receive a weakend current through it, maybe
that pad is some sort of conductor

 

[sofie]

Art:
I agree with your accessment of the OP and his posting. Your reply posting
was correct IMHO.
It is time for a repair shop to look at it UNLESS the OP can provide more
information about his "desire and resources" so we can "guage" both and
respond accordingly.
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
newsMudncwdo7EMM87fRVn-hg@comcast.com...

Bloody shame that the original poster did not even take the time to post
the
make, model and/or chassis so at least we have a flippin chance at
diagnosing, The original post indicated total lack of any intelligence
regarding actually servicing these devices. therefore the best option,
IMHO,
is the fact that professional services would be mandated. Duh!
"Larry Brasfield" <donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2rA4e.66$3n3.458@news.uswest.net...
"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:S82dnckvVsPQ5M3fRVn-hg@comcast.com...
Actually time to turn this one over to the repair shops and stop the
dribble!! IMHO

That would depend on the OP's desire and resources,
would it not? I doubt you know enough to gauge either
at this point.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> writes:

Bill Renfro wrote:
Why do you have 3 GFCI outlets on the same circuit? Only the first
one on
the line needed to be a GFCI and it would protect all the other
outlets
after it. You could also use a single GFCI breaker and then all the
outlets
on that branch circuit would be protected. At least that's the way
mine
work.

I figured if I did it that way, diagnosing a trip or other condition
would required knowing about the upstream outlet. I tried to minimize
such "non-local" effects by just putting GFCIs anywhere that no major
appliances would be plugged in. They were <$10 on sale anywway. It's
too bad I have keep some shared neutral circuits because of legacy
issues, another instance where you have to know about the entire system
to work on just part of it.

So, now you will have some random combinatino of GFCIs tripping, rather
than only one.

Realize that there is no guarantee that only the GFCI at the affected
outlet will trip!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Bram Stolk]

Probably you have to hold button for a few seconds to get active, or you
must press and hold two buttons simultaneously, or your buttons just donot
move far enough inwards to make the proper contact. Try to short circuit
contact with e.g needlepoint when backplate of watch is removed..

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> schreef in bericht
news:3e7445e7.0504110805.129d5bf6@posting.google.com...

Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works? I only wore it once or
twice before it stopped working. I didn't open it before then or hit
it against something or get it wet. I'm also baffled as to why the
original battery is still working some 13 years later when Casio says
it should last 5 years. I've been thinking of buying a new watch
similar to this one but I'm hesitant to since I had such bad luck with
this one. I was just hoping that maybe it would be easier and cheaper
for someone to fix it now with all this new technology then it was
years ago.



"Bram Stolk" <bram2.stolk@wanadoo.nl> wrote in message
news:<425a260a$0$94711$dbd4d001@news.wanadoo.nl>...
it is a tricky way but it can be done...
remove the clockworks completely (that's including the plastic casing)
from
its housing
separate the plastic frame from the clock
remove the little screw you spoke about earlier
look at the edges of the big battery clip holder, they latch to the clock
housing at three locations,
pry-off the cover plate...Presto battery can be removed. Before you
reassemble in reverse order make sure that the pushbuttons in the housing
can move freely, lube with light oil if necessay or remove them
completely
to remove sweat and dirth

Unless you have some emotional ties with this watch donot even start all
this work and replace it by a new one...


"testortool" <mbillings@comcast.net> schreef in bericht
news:115jjnj2of1i744@corp.supernews.com...
A good jewelry / watch shop will change out the battery for a few bucks
in
labor if you haven't already broken something.

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504100929.b290000@posting.google.com...

I have a Casio digital technical watch that seems to be broken. I was
hoping that taking the battery out may reset it so it will work right.
Unfortunately, I can't get the battery out. I was hoping
someone here might be able to help me.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 10:21:34 GMT, Ross Herbert
<rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote:

On 5 Apr 2005 07:51:02 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:


Ross Herbert wrote:
On 4 Apr 2005 19:19:42 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:
connecting to mains when I discovered that a 9V battery was pushing
25
or so micro-amps down a circuit that was supposed to be open, as

9V/25microamps = 360Kohms
360Kohms isn't going to load a 9V battery (unless it is already
flat).

The reason I said that is the voltage across the battery terminals is
more when it isn't connected to the circuit.

Looking further, I found that each GFCI (there are 3 in
parallel in this circuit) had continuity from live to neutral and
showed a resistance of about 360 Ohms on a DMM, causing about 120
Ohms
at the end that is supposed to go into the breaker panel.

This works out to about 30mA per GFCI. Sounds like the normal trip
current to me. ???

If it was the trip current, seems a little high... but the conditions
for tripping don't exist (as far as I can tell).

wiring has any insulation breakdown to neutral or earth. Test the
GFCI's while they are on the bench and see what you get.

The branches disconnected from the GFCI are open between L, N, and
ground. Continuity begins as soon as the GFCI outlets are put back into
the circuit.

The wiring itself should be ok then. Taking a look at the way a GFCI
works http://www-training.llnl.gov/wbt/hc/Electrical/GFCIworks.html
then with no load connected to the output of the GFCI then connecting
an ohmmeter across L - N at the input should read high resistance.

Sam Goldwasser has a page devoted to GFCI and their working so you
might get some further insight from there.

Good luck.

Forgot to post Sam's link http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm

 

[Michael Black]

Mike (littleboyblu87@yahoo.com) writes:

Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works? I only wore it once or
twice before it stopped working. I didn't open it before then or hit
it against something or get it wet. I'm also baffled as to why the
original battery is still working some 13 years later when Casio says
it should last 5 years. I've been thinking of buying a new watch
similar to this one but I'm hesitant to since I had such bad luck with
this one. I was just hoping that maybe it would be easier and cheaper
for someone to fix it now with all this new technology then it was
years ago.

Because while there are switches on the module, the buttons you press

are only the buttons to manipulate those switches. If the module isn't
properly aligned with the buttons, then you will have problems activating
the switches.

I've changed batteries in such watches, and had to reopen the case
to adjust the alignment a bit in order to get the switches right.
And my memory is that the alignment could be off enough to cause
problems and still not be visually noticeable.

As for batteries, the estimate may have no basis. Or it may be
based on actual use, which includes activating the backlight. If
you aren't using the watch, you'll never activate the backlight, and
that's what uses up the battery. INdeed, I've not found the estimate
of battery life on the watches I've had very accurate, since I use
the backlight quite a bit and that wears out the battery much faster.

Michael

 

[NSM]

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504110805.129d5bf6@posting.google.com...

Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works?

Because it's a Casio!

--
N

 

[Casual Fool]

On 8 Apr 2005 08:54:44 -0700, kolotun@gmail.com wrote:

I would appreciate your opinions about the following device:


"Smart Tweezers LCR RCL RLC Meter Digital MultiMeter SMD"


I found on eBay. Looks like an interesting concept but is it as good as

the seller tells?

Hi Kolotun,
I just received my Smart Tweezers and spent all day
playing with them making measuremets on two way communications
equipment that uses SMD technology. I will have to say, I have alot of
neat test equipment, but these Canadian engineers were really on the
ball when they built this tester... There is nothing neater than being
able to measure and identify an unmarked SMD part with a device you
can hold in one hand.. The only possible thing I think they could have
added to this device is one more option in the main menu to let you
invert the LCD display 180 degrees so left handed folks (like me)
don't have to "cock your head" and read the upside down display! I
believe this device is well worth the money, IMHO... BTW, before you
order this device off of Ebay, go directly to one of the main sorces,
and get a TWO year guarantee (if bought before 30 May 2005 instead of
the one year guarantee on Ebay.. Best Luck then! Anthony, WB8MLA

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

I had a multi-function / multi-button Casio that did this. After I
owned it a few years, I found that I had to press one of the buttons
harder and harder to make it register. I changed the battery, but it
didn't help. This happened over the space of only a few weeks, and then
another button started doing the same thing. I concluded that the
conductive material on the buttons had either worn away or gotten dirty,
and since I couldn't get ready access to the buttons, I abandoned it.

Sorry

Bill
------------------------

Mike wrote:

Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works? I only wore it once or
twice before it stopped working. I didn't open it before then or hit
it against something or get it wet. I'm also baffled as to why the
original battery is still working some 13 years later when Casio says
it should last 5 years. I've been thinking of buying a new watch
similar to this one but I'm hesitant to since I had such bad luck with
this one. I was just hoping that maybe it would be easier and cheaper
for someone to fix it now with all this new technology then it was
years ago.



"Bram Stolk" <bram2.stolk@wanadoo.nl> wrote in message news:<425a260a$0$94711$dbd4d001@news.wanadoo.nl>...

it is a tricky way but it can be done...
remove the clockworks completely (that's including the plastic casing) from
its housing
separate the plastic frame from the clock
remove the little screw you spoke about earlier
look at the edges of the big battery clip holder, they latch to the clock
housing at three locations,
pry-off the cover plate...Presto battery can be removed. Before you
reassemble in reverse order make sure that the pushbuttons in the housing
can move freely, lube with light oil if necessay or remove them completely
to remove sweat and dirth

Unless you have some emotional ties with this watch donot even start all
this work and replace it by a new one...


"testortool" <mbillings@comcast.net> schreef in bericht
news:115jjnj2of1i744@corp.supernews.com...

A good jewelry / watch shop will change out the battery for a few bucks in
labor if you haven't already broken something.

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504100929.b290000@posting.google.com...


I have a Casio digital technical watch that seems to be broken. I was
hoping that taking the battery out may reset it so it will work right.
Unfortunately, I can't get the battery out. I was hoping
someone here might be able to help me.

 

[jakdedert]

NSM wrote:

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504110805.129d5bf6@posting.google.com...
Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works?

Because it's a Casio!

I'm still using the Casio that I found lying in the street around 15 years
ago. I've put several new bands on it and cleaned the gunk out of the pins
which activate the switches, as well as changing out several batteries.
I've bought--or been given--several watches in the intervening years; but
this is the only one which seems to keep working. I wear it 24/7, even in
the shower and pool. It gains about a minute/month when on my wrist, and
loses about the same if left in a drawer...undoubtedly due to temperature
variation.

If you'd ever had a Casio, you'd probably not have written the above. When
this one finally bites it, I'll most certainly buy another. It's the only
piece of technology that I've used daily for this long, which still works.

To the OP: there's probably a catch on the battery clip that you have to
squeeze in order to get it to pop off. Examine it carefully with a
magnifying glass (I used a jewelers loupe. It had been so long since I
replaced the battery, I forgot the drill....).

jak

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

Have you inquired at the solar energy forum sponsored by Northern
Arizona Wind and Sun? Several knowledgable people on the forum.

http://www.wind-sun.com/forum/

Bill Jeffrey
--------------------------------

delvin@slingshot.co.nz wrote:

... for a Trace 2624 inverter (old black box model). Here on Great
Barrier Island we have no grid power, so the inverter is essential.
Its' fan malfunctioned and the unit suffered a meltdown. Whilst I could
replace all the FETs and any other obviously fried components I'd
really like to know what waveforms should be where before I hook it
back up to the battery bank and possibly see all my work and a couple
of dozen new components go up in smoke again. The Trace people (never
big on support) don't want to know, as the unit is about 12 years old.
Even if I could just get it going again as a charger it would be
useful. I'll happily pay money for a photocopy or a decent scan if
somebody out there has a service manual. It is a 230v model, but I
imagine the only major difference from a 110v model is the transformer.

 

[NSM]

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:gUC6e.47586$vL3.2536@bignews4.bellsouth.net...

If you'd ever had a Casio, you'd probably not have written the above.

Wanna see my dead Casio museum?
--
N

 

[NSM]

"Bill Jeffrey" <wjeffreyAT@alum.DOTmit.edu> wrote in message
news:_WC6e.38667$Xs.37009@fed1read03...

I had a multi-function / multi-button Casio that did this. After I
owned it a few years, I found that I had to press one of the buttons
harder and harder to make it register. I changed the battery, but it
didn't help. This happened over the space of only a few weeks, and then
another button started doing the same thing. I concluded that the
conductive material on the buttons had either worn away or gotten dirty,
and since I couldn't get ready access to the buttons, I abandoned it.

Yep. My buddy and I both got Casio watches that had a full
scientific/programmers calculator built in, but they both died as the
buttons failed.
--
N

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:

NSM wrote:
"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504110805.129d5bf6@posting.google.com...
Thanks for the help. But can anyone tell me why the buttons on the
watch won't work but the display still works?

Because it's a Casio!

I'm still using the Casio that I found lying in the street around 15 years
ago. I've put several new bands on it and cleaned the gunk out of the pins
which activate the switches, as well as changing out several batteries.
I've bought--or been given--several watches in the intervening years; but
this is the only one which seems to keep working. I wear it 24/7, even in
the shower and pool. It gains about a minute/month when on my wrist, and
loses about the same if left in a drawer...undoubtedly due to temperature
variation.

If you'd ever had a Casio, you'd probably not have written the above. When
this one finally bites it, I'll most certainly buy another. It's the only
piece of technology that I've used daily for this long, which still works.

Same here. I paid 50 cents for my Casio at a garage sale. I think it's
still on the original battery after at least 8 years. I gave up on the
band and just keep it in my pocket. It's one of those with 32 phone numbers,
multiple alarms, stop watch, timer, dual time zones, etc. I have a spare
that has the calculator. ;-)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[CJT]

bobby.hawk@gmail.com wrote:

My wife moved here from the UK... she brought with her a unit called a
"hostess trolley" it is used to keep food warm before serving. She
loves it but it's a 220/240 volt unit.

We've tried running it with a converter and that didn't work.

Describe the failure mode. If it's merely a thermostat & heater,
a simple converter should work. If there's a motor in it (e.g. a
clock), the motor might run at the wrong speed.

Are you sure the converter was of sufficient capacity? A heater
can take a lot of power, and trip protection circuits in the
converter.

We've re-wired it for a 220 volt US plug and that didn't work.

Presumably you plugged it in to a 220 volt single phase source? Did it
fail the same way? Are you sure you wired it correctly?

So, it must be a problem with 60 / 50 hertz.

Usually the transition this direction is easier, because 60 Hz requires
less iron in transformers, which is the real issue in many (most?) cases.

Anybody have an idea about what else we could try to make it work in
the States?

It's possible the device has circuitry specifically designed to
preclude that, but unlikely.

Bob

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Comteck]

it doesn't sound like the picture tube itself, but circuitry associated
with the picture tube. Have it checked by a qualified service technician.
It sounds almost like somebody wasted some sort of liquid into the set.

 

[Rono]

Not to be rude, but if your'e a newbie, you probably
shouldn't touch it, as it can be very dangerous to touch,
even if it's been off for a while! Iv'e seen quite a few,
over the years get quite a shock from T.V.'s! But if you
have good sense, & a steady hand, try to solder the power
relay, & also the horizontal drive transformer! Please be carefull!
Rono.