Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Jumpster Jiver]

Sachin wrote:

I had a panasonic hand held camera. a few months ago, some coke fell
into it and it has stopped working since.

the repair shop said that the mother board had 'gone'. and it wad cost
almost as much as buying a new one.

i was wondering ...that since the mother board was gone. maybe i could
use the lens for some other purpose....say a sort of a binoculor. also
the lcd screen and the viewfinder. is there any way i could do this?

i need the pin configurations of all these parts. where can i find
these?

thanks,

Sachin
In Much older analog cameras the viewfinder could be used for other fun

projects because it was just like a little video monitor - Voltage in,
ground, video in, etc.
Most modern cameras with LCD monitors use digital signals and digital
controls that you can not easily duplicate or use to make the parts
useful without the camera. Your best bet is to find an identical camera
as a parts donor or use yours as a parts donor.

One word of warning - there can be different versions of the exact same
camera with the same exact model number. A main board of a different
version may not work with a model that was made a year later.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Fri, 8 Apr 2005 18:55:37 -0500, "Bill Renfro" <brenfro@charter.net>
wrote:

Why do you have 3 GFCI outlets on the same circuit? Only the first one on
the line needed to be a GFCI and it would protect all the other outlets
after it. You could also use a single GFCI breaker and then all the outlets
on that branch circuit would be protected. At least that's the way mine
work.
I am glad to here you solved your problem though, I would have been
surprised as well at the reading. They really should document that.

Bill

Sure, you can use a single GFCI (usually DIN rail mount) in the
distribution box to supply up to the maximum number of outlets on any
branch circuit. But, you can also buy GFCI outlets which fit the
standard wall outlet mounting box.
http://www.passandseymour.com/news/view.cfm?id=158

I suspect they were developed to make it easy to convert existing
outlets to GFCI protected circuits without interfering with the
distribution board wiring. It is certainly a more expensive way to go
compared to fitting a single GFCI in the distribution box, that's for
sure.

 

[NSM]

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:at2h51drt0n3pndfplocrpu74ms70n7v3q@4ax.com...

Sure, you can use a single GFCI (usually DIN rail mount) in the
distribution box to supply up to the maximum number of outlets on any
branch circuit. But, you can also buy GFCI outlets which fit the
standard wall outlet mounting box.
http://www.passandseymour.com/news/view.cfm?id=158

I suspect they were developed to make it easy to convert existing
outlets to GFCI protected circuits without interfering with the
distribution board wiring. It is certainly a more expensive way to go
compared to fitting a single GFCI in the distribution box, that's for
sure.

How it's done in the USA/Canada is that one GFI is put in an outlet box and
then a number of outlets are run from that so all those downstream are
protected.
--
N

 

[NSM]

"Sachin" <sachinuc@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8c8e8a97.0504090241.4fe6d982@posting.google.com...

I had a panasonic hand held camera. a few months ago, some coke fell
into it and it has stopped working since.

the repair shop said that the mother board had 'gone'. and it wad cost
almost as much as buying a new one.

i was wondering ...that since the mother board was gone. maybe i could
use the lens for some other purpose....say a sort of a binoculor. also
the lcd screen and the viewfinder. is there any way i could do this?

i need the pin configurations of all these parts. where can i find
these?

Wash it out with some CLEAN water with baking soda dissolved in it, then
rinse with CLEAN water. Let dry for a couple of weeks and try again. At this
point you can't do much more damage.
--
N

 

[NSM]

<bobby.hawk@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113058239.492985.220770@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

My wife moved here from the UK... she brought with her a unit called a
"hostess trolley" it is used to keep food warm before serving. She
loves it but it's a 220/240 volt unit.

We've tried running it with a converter and that didn't work.

We've re-wired it for a 220 volt US plug and that didn't work.

So, it must be a problem with 60 / 50 hertz.

Anybody have an idea about what else we could try to make it work in
the States?

Nope, just voltage. AFAIK there's no motors etc in those. You have 220 in
your home - it's just a matter of providing it where you need it for the
trolley. It's already in your kitchen - all those twin outlets have 220 from
hot to hot.
--
N

 

[James Sweet]

"RonKZ650" <RonKZ650@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113095442.724505.278090@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I've got 100s of them too. If I could get $5 ea I'd be jumping for joy.
Seems like most of them are kind of goofy though. Anybody need a can
with 4 sections 300uf 400v, 10uf 35v, 1uf 450v, 1000uf 16v. I've got 10
of these very popular lytics. Mostly code dated late 60s. Good stuff
for someone?

The problem with NOS lytics is that after they've sat around for a few
decades they're usually junk, sometimes you can re-form them by very slow
and careful application of power but often they're dried up and out of
tolerance.

 

[none]

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:20:14 +0100, lisaferrari
<lisaferrari.1n8c9n@news.diybanter.com> wrote:

I called JBL today about this amp and they were really unhelpful and
offered me the same deal they offered you. I wasn't interested. If
you still have these parts, I would love to buy them from you. Let me
know.

Thank you.
Angelo Wrote:
I have a slightly used and working Power Module Part Number 60301 /
S53AMI for the JBL PSW-D110 Subwoofer made by JBL in stock for
immediate delivery. I will supply it with a NEW replacement 10uF /100V
non-polarized electrolytic capacitor for location C6 on the amplifier
board also. The originals were 10uf/50v value and usually failed or
exploded and are indicated to require upgrade to a 100V DC value as
per their Service Bulletins.

My PSW-D110 was beyond repair this time and I had previously ordered
the module to make a repair attempt with little success. My amplifier
board was obviously damaged from the previous failures which had
burned some lands on the pc board after the C6 capacitor exploded
among other possible failures I couldn't resolve or find. This was the
second time this subwoofer had failed in 3 years of normal non-abusive
use - it was dead most of the 3 years of ownership! I only found out
about the factory manufacturing defects after ordering parts and
investigating here on the web!

I carefully installed the replacement module from Harmon after making
other repairs and it didn't do the trick although I was able to get
output through the amplifier but with some "popping" noises probably
due to other failing components elsewhere in the amp circuit. I
reinstalled the original Amp module which again behaved in the same
manner - it appears the original module was still working ok. I gave
up on my subwoofer repair immediately and carefully removed the new
Power Amp Module with my vacuum desoldering station and using solder
wick with a minimum of heat on the new module. I believe the new
removed module to be working fine and would like to get $15.00 plus
$3.00 shipping for it along with a New 10uf/100V capacitor I am
including for free. I paid over $36.00 plus shipping for the 60301 /
S53AMI amplifier module alone. I hope this will help out another JBL
victim whose unit is a better prospect for repair than mine was!

On another Customer Service - Quality Assurance note; JBL is very
aware of these defective units! They sold thousands of them! It is my
opinion that
most of them have failed and upon calling them they offered to send me
a newer replacement model (currently the JBL E150P subwoofer) upon
returning proof of purchase of the PSW-D110 along with $208.40 plus
tax like they were doing me a favor!!! What a scam since the E150P
can be shopped below $199.00 plus shipping on NextTag.com among other
places!!!

JBL should replace these for their customers who request relief at no
charge since they knew about the defects! Actually they should have
made an effort to recall them which I believe they never did! They
have caused many dollars in loses as far as wasted time,effort,and
replacement parts cost expenditure to their customers!!! I guess in
the real world they just write us off like sheep!

I have always trusted, recommended, purchased, and installed JBL
Professional Equipment but now have a really bad taste in my mouth
after buying JBL/Harmon Consumer Electronics! Beware and let them know
you aren't happy either!!!

How pathetic that what was once the leading name in the industry for
loudspeaker components has fallen to such a shameful low. A sign of
the times I guess.
I'd used alot of their products over the years both in my home and
professionally and always had the best in service from them.
I'd been dusting alot of my older JBL off from my storage warehouse
and getting it back in working order.
After reading of the shabby way they've been treating customers now
I'll be using someone else to recone all my commercial JBL
loudspeakers.

 

[none]

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 18:05:08 +0200, maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:

none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:
On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 14:36:22 +0200, maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:
Get a better reader and learn how quoting works...
Well ASSHOLE all you have to do is delete the message.
If we were face to face I doubt you'd be calling me names.

Clearly I am not calling you names, only dispensing a well meant advise
on how to be taken seriously on usenet.

However if you've got anything that passes for a pair feel free to
e-mail me your address, I take insults VERY personally.
especially when they come from some asscrack computer dweeb.
(BTW my clock IS set to the correct time, if you'd read the posts
you'd have know that it's my isp that's having the problem.)

I never commented on your clock, so if anything, my neutral opinion on
your postings will now change for the worse.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

OH... I see. Calling someone a jackass is just well meant advice.
And unless I'm mistaken the date function is part of the clock
setting, at least with the OS I'm using.
Who cares about your neutral opnion? Which BTW is hardly neutral if
you go to the length to insult someone by calling them a jackass.
I'm still waiting for you to send me your address, that's if you have
the guts.

 

[GS]

Thats why I like and still hang onto my HP-410C which the owner was
happy to sell at a fleamarket (because it wasn't digital!). The only
little mod I made was to solder a sewing needle to the tip with a small
piece of spagetti over it so that I can reach into close areas with that
big AC probe (which is kind of nice on a cool day even

"Right On" with the comment about the included schematic - I often muse
that those companies which produced "quality" equipment (whether it was
test or otherwise)...."weren't afraid of their products" and their
attention to detail in the manuals and literature backed that up - I
don't care what the modern excuses are.


Gord

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

none wrote:

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:20:14 +0100, lisaferrari
lisaferrari.1n8c9n@news.diybanter.com> wrote:


I called JBL today about this amp and they were really unhelpful and
offered me the same deal they offered you. I wasn't interested. If
you still have these parts, I would love to buy them from you. Let
me know.

Thank you.
Angelo Wrote:
I have a slightly used and working Power Module Part Number 60301 /
S53AMI for the JBL PSW-D110 Subwoofer made by JBL in stock for
immediate delivery. I will supply it with a NEW replacement 10uF
/100V non-polarized electrolytic capacitor for location C6 on the
amplifier board also. The originals were 10uf/50v value and usually
failed or exploded and are indicated to require upgrade to a 100V
DC value as per their Service Bulletins.

My PSW-D110 was beyond repair this time and I had previously ordered
the module to make a repair attempt with little success. My
amplifier board was obviously damaged from the previous failures
which had burned some lands on the pc board after the C6 capacitor
exploded among other possible failures I couldn't resolve or find.
This was the second time this subwoofer had failed in 3 years of
normal non-abusive use - it was dead most of the 3 years of
ownership! I only found out about the factory manufacturing
defects after ordering parts and investigating here on the web!

I carefully installed the replacement module from Harmon after
making other repairs and it didn't do the trick although I was able
to get output through the amplifier but with some "popping" noises
probably due to other failing components elsewhere in the amp
circuit. I reinstalled the original Amp module which again behaved
in the same manner - it appears the original module was still
working ok. I gave up on my subwoofer repair immediately and
carefully removed the new Power Amp Module with my vacuum
desoldering station and using solder wick with a minimum of heat on
the new module. I believe the new removed module to be working fine
and would like to get $15.00 plus $3.00 shipping for it along with
a New 10uf/100V capacitor I am including for free. I paid over
$36.00 plus shipping for the 60301 / S53AMI amplifier module alone.
I hope this will help out another JBL victim whose unit is a better
prospect for repair than mine was!

On another Customer Service - Quality Assurance note; JBL is very
aware of these defective units! They sold thousands of them! It is
my opinion that
most of them have failed and upon calling them they offered to send
me a newer replacement model (currently the JBL E150P subwoofer)
upon returning proof of purchase of the PSW-D110 along with $208.40
plus tax like they were doing me a favor!!! What a scam since the
E150P can be shopped below $199.00 plus shipping on NextTag.com
among other places!!!

JBL should replace these for their customers who request relief at
no charge since they knew about the defects! Actually they should
have made an effort to recall them which I believe they never did!
They have caused many dollars in loses as far as wasted
time,effort,and replacement parts cost expenditure to their
customers!!! I guess in the real world they just write us off like
sheep!

I have always trusted, recommended, purchased, and installed JBL
Professional Equipment but now have a really bad taste in my mouth
after buying JBL/Harmon Consumer Electronics! Beware and let them
know you aren't happy either!!!

How pathetic that what was once the leading name in the industry for
loudspeaker components has fallen to such a shameful low. A sign of
the times I guess.
I'd used alot of their products over the years both in my home and
professionally and always had the best in service from them.
I'd been dusting alot of my older JBL off from my storage warehouse
and getting it back in working order.
After reading of the shabby way they've been treating customers now
I'll be using someone else to recone all my commercial JBL
loudspeakers.

JBL's response to the problem on the subwoofers has been shameful, I'll
admit. I think it's the potential size of their liability which has them
drawing the wagons in a circle - they sold LOTS of those.

Their support of the professional products is still good, and aftermarket
kits etc are poor quality so I'd recommend you hold your nose and continue
to deal with them on pro stuff (different company division anyway).


Mark Z.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

IC6F01, AN5862K, IIRC. The problem should not return if you add the diode
modification as per the Mitsubishi service bulletin. I have never had a
repeat repair on one of these, using either the chips supplied by Mitsubishi
or from other vendors.

Leonard

"RonKZ650" <RonKZ650@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113149100.969522.249490@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Follow your wiring from the CRT board down to the chassis and look for
a small IC near there. It's only a simple 8 or 10 pin single row IC.
Forget the number and not near the shop now, but replacing the chip
should restore the blue, although chances are the problem may return
again in a few months.

 

[NSM]

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504100929.b290000@posting.google.com...

I have a Casio digital technical watch that seems to be broken. I was
hoping that taking the battery out may reset it so it will work right.
Unfortunately, I can't get the battery out. I was hoping
someone here might be able to help me.

The model number is: CA-53W (437). I've read the instructions a
zillion times but they don't appear to be entirely accurate. There's
some sort of metal plate covering the battery that won't lift up or
turn. The instructions say that a screw(s) needs to be removed first.
However, I only see one screw in the watch and no matter how much I
turn it, it won't come out or lift up.

The watch has a time display on it but none of the buttons work. They
stopped working a few months after I got it about 13 years ago. I took
it to two repair shops but they wouldn't/couldn't touch it. Oddly
enough, the original battery (CR-2016) is still working.

Can anyone help me?

Any half way decent radio repairman could fix it but you won't want to pay
for the repair!
--
N

 

none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

OH... I see. Calling someone a jackass is just well meant advice.

If you review this thread, you will find I never called you names.
Please look before you leap.

I'm still waiting for you to send me your address, that's if you have
the guts.

I think you must be mistaking me for someone else.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article <1113041834.9f8b2a4a76b747234f6c372302da2be1@teranews>,
Mark D. Zacharias <spammenot@yis.us> wrote:
Is the Fluke 77 mark 3 any good? The 87 seems a bit big for my
purposes, though I suppose I could get used to it. What other models
would you all recommend?

I've got a 179, and am very pleased with it. Does have frequency
counting though - and temperature.

Auto ranging and hold with min max.

Only think I dislike is the near rigid test leads. ;_)

The 73 looks pretty nice - and doesn't taper down towards the base like the
77 III, which looks kind of unstable to me.

Mark Z.

 

[jakdedert]

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:

none wrote:

JBL's response to the problem on the subwoofers has been shameful,
I'll admit. I think it's the potential size of their liability which
has them drawing the wagons in a circle - they sold LOTS of those.

Their support of the professional products is still good, and
aftermarket kits etc are poor quality so I'd recommend you hold your
nose and continue to deal with them on pro stuff (different company
division anyway).

There's quite a bit of info on the Web concerning the JBL sub problem. In
one engineering forum I visited, there was a *very* detailed description of
the circuit, along with a running commentary on attempted DIY fixes. I
don't have the URL handy, but pulled it up on a Google search for "JBL
subwoofers." The OP on that thread had a good handle on the problem....

jak

Mark Z.

 

ZZactly@aol.com wrote:

I was already aware that the qwerty design is intended to slow the
typist down to avoid jamming up the then mechanical devices.

No, it was meant to avoid jams and thereby _speed up_ typing.

http://home.earthlink.net/~dcrehr/whyqwert.html
http://www.straightdope.com/classics/a1_248.html
http://www.utdallas.edu/~liebowit/keys1.html

Matt Roberds

 

[James Sweet]

<delvin@slingshot.co.nz> wrote in message
news:1113166206.583725.178280@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

... for a Trace 2624 inverter (old black box model). Here on Great
Barrier Island we have no grid power, so the inverter is essential.
Its' fan malfunctioned and the unit suffered a meltdown. Whilst I could
replace all the FETs and any other obviously fried components I'd
really like to know what waveforms should be where before I hook it
back up to the battery bank and possibly see all my work and a couple
of dozen new components go up in smoke again. The Trace people (never
big on support) don't want to know, as the unit is about 12 years old.
Even if I could just get it going again as a charger it would be
useful. I'll happily pay money for a photocopy or a decent scan if
somebody out there has a service manual. It is a 230v model, but I
imagine the only major difference from a 110v model is the transformer.

If you can't get a schematic from the manufacture then it quite likely is
simply not available anywhere. Replace the fried components and test the
rest of the transistors and diodes with a multimeter, then apply a current
limited power source. When I repair inverters I usually run them off either
a 3A bench supply or an old computer supply capable of 10A on the 12V line
depending on the size of the inverter. That's usually enough to power up one
with no load or a small nightlight bulb for testing but not enough to blow
up a dozen FET's in the blink of an eye as the hundreds of amps available
from a battery will.

 

delvin@slingshot.co.nz <delvin@slingshot.co.nz> wrote:

... for a Trace 2624 inverter (old black box model).

I would suggest asking the solar energy people, but it appears that
someone has already asked there. Unless, of course, two separate
installations in NZ managed to blow up a Trace 2624 at the same time.

Its' fan malfunctioned and the unit suffered a meltdown.

If it's one of the square DC fans that are common in computers, you can
get a lot of these now that have a tachometer lead that provides pulses
when the blade is turning. You'll have to come up with a circuit to
monitor the pulses and sound a buzzer (if someone is around to hear it),
shut off power (unattended), etc. A simpler way might be a thermostat
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T051/1132.pdf in series with a buzzer or
relay coil.

Whilst I could replace all the FETs and any other obviously fried
components I'd really like to know what waveforms should be where
before I hook it back up to the battery bank and possibly see all
my work and a couple of dozen new components go up in smoke again.

How about this... Disconnect the main transformer from everything,
and apply line voltage to the output side. Measure the voltages on
the windings on the low-voltage side. Replace the burned parts.
Measure the resistance of the input terminals (both ways) to see if
it's really low... if it is, recheck the repair work. If not, hook
a small light bulb (or series string of light bulbs to get the right
voltage) to the output of the inverter... where the low-voltage winding
of the transformer would usually be. (The bright filament of an 1157
12 V car tail light bulb, or the only filament of an 1156, is about 27
W. Most car headlights are 50 to 60 W.) Then, hook up the battery bank
through a relatively small fuse (1 A, 5 A, etc), or use a light bulb
instead of a fuse - http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/sam/tshoot.htm#tshslt
.. In your case you'll put the bulb in the DC input line from the
batteries. Give it a try - if the fuse blows, or the bulb in the DC
input lead comes on brightly, there's still a problem. If the bulb(s)
on the output light up at about the right brightness, you're on the
right track. You can either load it up with more bulbs on the output
and test again, or go ahead and hook up the transformer.

One flaw in this theory is that I believe some of these inverters
have a feedback winding on the transformer to correct the frequency
of the oscillator. The light bulb load won't provide this feedback,
and the oscillator may not start.

There is a schematic for a very simple inverter here:
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/sam/samschem.htm#schbp1

One thing I do in cases like this is that if one transistor is blown,
and it's not screamingly expensive, I order three of them as
replacements. That way, if I was wrong at first, I get two more
guesses before I have to sit down and really think about it.
If I guess right, I have spares for a future failure (if it blew once,
it'll blow again) or for some other project.

Good luck!

Matt Roberds

 

[testortool]

A good jewelry / watch shop will change out the battery for a few bucks in
labor if you haven't already broken something.

"Mike" <littleboyblu87@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3e7445e7.0504100929.b290000@posting.google.com...

I have a Casio digital technical watch that seems to be broken. I was
hoping that taking the battery out may reset it so it will work right.
Unfortunately, I can't get the battery out. I was hoping
someone here might be able to help me.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

Just do a google search for the info. Help yourself before expecting techs
to waste their time doing your research for you. The info has been posted
previously in at least two technicians forums publicly available on the
internet referenced to the model number. It has likely been posted on this
group, too. Come on, guys, you didn't even need to ask the question if you
had looked. I pointed you in the right direction and with the info I gave
you probably would narrow the search to the specific answer. I don't mind
helping, but gee whiz, do I have to go look it up for you?

Isn't this kind of research routine and trivial for techs these days? I
spend a good hour of my day doing research to make my shop run more
efficiently and find fixes just like this all the time. Am I the oddball?
If I don't find a fix in the databases I have, the forums that I search, or
from the manufacturer, I always at least google it before expecting others
to look it up for me. Only after doing the research myself do I post a
question on the newsgroups, forums, or listserves.

I go out of my way for other techs all the time, but I know them and know
that they will reciprocate, that they have likely done their homework first,
and that they are qualified to use the info properly. I am not going to go
very far out of my way for someone who does not identify who they are and
the company that they work for. I will give advice from memory to anyone,
but if you want to stay anonymous don't expect much more.

Leonard

<captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113166192.573388.6720@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Do you by chance have a copy of the service bulletin that you could
send me? Thanks, Lenny