Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Sam Goldwasser]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"Michael Black" <et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote in message
news:d37j2p$ocn$1@theodyn.ncf.ca...

"James Sweet" (jamessweet@hotmail.com) writes:
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4d57482f1ddave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article <KOI4e.6601$Tm5.1917@trnddc07>,
James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
The one area where I find an analog meter to really be easier is when
you
want to monitor the relative amplitude of some varying signal, it's a
lot
easier to visualize than jumpy digital numbers. For a quantitive
value
though digital is SO much easier.

Better DVMs have a linear bar display to show you roughly the same
thing.


Mine has one of those, it's really not very useful though, an analog
needle
has *far* higher resolution and reacts more quickly.


As I've said, the solution would be to put a tiny analog meter inside
the DVM, with only a relative scale on it, for this sort of thing.

Decades ago when I thought of building a DVM, I had planned to put
in such an analog meter. And I'm pretty sure one manufacturer did
include a meter like this way back.

I find the sluggishness of the LCD "analog scale" makes it completely
useless.


If they included an analog meter movment it'd probably be too small to be
useful and add too much to the cost. Easier to just keep an analog meter
around for the situations that need it. Digital is adaquate for most things.

Some more specialized measuring instruments like laser power meters do
have both. The analog and digital displays share the same space as in
Coherent's Fieldmaster:

http://www.cohr.com/Lasers/index.cfm?fuseaction=show.page&id=254&loc=830

That's been around in essentially the same form for at least 15 years.

I think they tried to do away with the delicate analog meter at one point
in favor of a bargraph display but then went back to the analog meter.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
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[kip]

What voltage do you have on the Vertical IC...??

kip

<stokesb@cox.net> wrote in message
news:1113039617.791867.96150@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I have a Zenith model #SJ1325W that had no vertical deflection. Only a
single horizontal white line across screen. I resoldered a few
components around the vert deflection IC, and got the picture back to
almost normal. Now there are horizontal lines across the screen that
are jittery. I replaced the vertical IC, but no change. I replaced a
cap in the same area I resoldered, and still nothing. Anyone have an
idea where to look? I don't have the schematic, but if anyone has one
and doesn't mind sharing, I would be greatful. Thanks all.

 

[kip]

Stuck Relay ..
kip
<buffyshow2005@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113030330.026610.25490@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Hi, I have a Panasonic 27-inch TV (model CT27G31U) and I just ran into
a problem with the TV last week where it doesn't shut off. Whenever I
go to shut the TV off, it just goes to a white screen and the audio
cuts off. The white screen is sorta like a film because I can still see
the video in the background if the cable box is left on. In order to
shut the TV off I have to go and unplug the TV from the wall.

When the TV is on though (before I hit the off button on the TV itself
which leads to the white screen), the picture is perfect.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[JMK]

You need to search for the camera service manual, by the camera model
number.
A good place to start is this: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/

Good luck.

JMK

--
jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi
Please notice my new address!

"Sachin" <sachinuc@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8c8e8a97.0504090241.4fe6d982@posting.google.com...

I had a panasonic hand held camera. a few months ago, some coke fell
into it and it has stopped working since.

the repair shop said that the mother board had 'gone'. and it wad cost
almost as much as buying a new one.

i was wondering ...that since the mother board was gone. maybe i could
use the lens for some other purpose....say a sort of a binoculor. also
the lcd screen and the viewfinder. is there any way i could do this?

i need the pin configurations of all these parts. where can i find
these?

thanks,

Sachin

 

[JazzMan]

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:

Butting in....

So what are you guys' favorite meters?

I've got a Fluke 87 and an 88, which is just an automotive
oriented verson of the 87, and I like them both. With
10M Ohms input impedence I can measure O2 sensor voltage
directly, use the analog bar to see rich/lean status, and
use the averaging function to study trends. I've had my
87 for more than a decade and the 88 for nearly that long.

JazzMan
--
**********************************************************
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
**********************************************************
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
**********************************************************

 

none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 14:36:22 +0200, maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:
Get a better reader and learn how quoting works...
Well ASSHOLE all you have to do is delete the message.
If we were face to face I doubt you'd be calling me names.

Clearly I am not calling you names, only dispensing a well meant advise
on how to be taken seriously on usenet.

However if you've got anything that passes for a pair feel free to
e-mail me your address, I take insults VERY personally.
especially when they come from some asscrack computer dweeb.
(BTW my clock IS set to the correct time, if you'd read the posts
you'd have know that it's my isp that's having the problem.)

I never commented on your clock, so if anything, my neutral opinion on
your postings will now change for the worse.

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

 

[lisaferrari]

I called JBL today about this amp and they were really unhelpful and
offered me the same deal they offered you. I wasn't interested. If
you still have these parts, I would love to buy them from you. Let me
know.

Thank you.
Angelo Wrote:

I have a slightly used and working Power Module Part Number 60301 /
S53AMI for the JBL PSW-D110 Subwoofer made by JBL in stock for
immediate delivery. I will supply it with a NEW replacement 10uF /100V
non-polarized electrolytic capacitor for location C6 on the amplifier
board also. The originals were 10uf/50v value and usually failed or
exploded and are indicated to require upgrade to a 100V DC value as
per their Service Bulletins.

My PSW-D110 was beyond repair this time and I had previously ordered
the module to make a repair attempt with little success. My amplifier
board was obviously damaged from the previous failures which had
burned some lands on the pc board after the C6 capacitor exploded
among other possible failures I couldn't resolve or find. This was the
second time this subwoofer had failed in 3 years of normal non-abusive
use - it was dead most of the 3 years of ownership! I only found out
about the factory manufacturing defects after ordering parts and
investigating here on the web!

I carefully installed the replacement module from Harmon after making
other repairs and it didn't do the trick although I was able to get
output through the amplifier but with some "popping" noises probably
due to other failing components elsewhere in the amp circuit. I
reinstalled the original Amp module which again behaved in the same
manner - it appears the original module was still working ok. I gave
up on my subwoofer repair immediately and carefully removed the new
Power Amp Module with my vacuum desoldering station and using solder
wick with a minimum of heat on the new module. I believe the new
removed module to be working fine and would like to get $15.00 plus
$3.00 shipping for it along with a New 10uf/100V capacitor I am
including for free. I paid over $36.00 plus shipping for the 60301 /
S53AMI amplifier module alone. I hope this will help out another JBL
victim whose unit is a better prospect for repair than mine was!

On another Customer Service - Quality Assurance note; JBL is very
aware of these defective units! They sold thousands of them! It is my
opinion that
most of them have failed and upon calling them they offered to send me
a newer replacement model (currently the JBL E150P subwoofer) upon
returning proof of purchase of the PSW-D110 along with $208.40 plus
tax like they were doing me a favor!!! What a scam since the E150P
can be shopped below $199.00 plus shipping on NextTag.com among other
places!!!

JBL should replace these for their customers who request relief at no
charge since they knew about the defects! Actually they should have
made an effort to recall them which I believe they never did! They
have caused many dollars in loses as far as wasted time,effort,and
replacement parts cost expenditure to their customers!!! I guess in
the real world they just write us off like sheep!

I have always trusted, recommended, purchased, and installed JBL
Professional Equipment but now have a really bad taste in my mouth
after buying JBL/Harmon Consumer Electronics! Beware and let them know
you aren't happy either!!!

--
lisaferrari

 

[lisaferrari]

Hi Kevin, Did you fine a place to order parts for this sub woofer. If
so. please let me know as my husband's blew last night and JBL was very
unhelpful.

Thank you,
Lisa

Edward Moehle Wrote:

Hello everyone,

I am looking for a parts list or service manual for this particular
sub
woofer. If anyone can help please email me at: kevin_mcc@hotmail.com.

Thanks,

Kevin M

--
lisaferrari

 

[James Sweet]

"Sachin" <sachinuc@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8c8e8a97.0504090241.4fe6d982@posting.google.com...

I had a panasonic hand held camera. a few months ago, some coke fell
into it and it has stopped working since.

the repair shop said that the mother board had 'gone'. and it wad cost
almost as much as buying a new one.

i was wondering ...that since the mother board was gone. maybe i could
use the lens for some other purpose....say a sort of a binoculor. also
the lcd screen and the viewfinder. is there any way i could do this?

i need the pin configurations of all these parts. where can i find
these?

thanks,

Sachin

Look for a similar camera on ebay that's been dropped or has a busted LCD or
jammed focus mechanism and swap parts around.

 

[James Sweet]

<paulodonohoe@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113038318.484608.20630@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Doug wrote:
Since you have a capacitance meter and you are not getting any
reading
best bet the starting capacitor is your problem.
Some places that sell parts will test the old for you.
I'm not sure about the 25 ohm resistor block. Does the block actually
state 25 ohm or is that just the measurment your getiing?

Hi Doug,

It is printed on the block that it's 25 ohms and that is what I am
getting.
I will have a look again and see if I can find the thermostat. There is
a dial
on the front panel that controls the temperature " 1 to 5" but I
presumed this was just another variable resistor. I'm afraid the owners
manual is not very helpful.

Regards

The dial is not a variable resistor, it connects to the themostat. Well I
suppose it *could* be a variable resistor in part of an electronic
thermostat but I've yet to ever see one like that. The compressor can only
run at one speed, it's either on or off depending on the temperature inside.
Check for voltage at the compressor, if it's there then the thermostat is
trying to turn it on.

 

[James Sweet]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@yis.us> wrote in message
news:1113046516.29f0cea6b57a545932f6032c8dd24249@teranews...

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <1113041834.9f8b2a4a76b747234f6c372302da2be1@teranews>,
Mark D. Zacharias <spammenot@yis.us> wrote:
Is the Fluke 77 mark 3 any good? The 87 seems a bit big for my
purposes, though I suppose I could get used to it. What other models
would you all recommend?

I've got a 179, and am very pleased with it. Does have frequency
counting though - and temperature.

Auto ranging and hold with min max.

Only think I dislike is the near rigid test leads. ;_)

The 73 looks pretty nice - and doesn't taper down towards the base like
the
77 III, which looks kind of unstable to me.

I do like the 73, I really don't like that newer tapered design, still can't
figure out why they did that, it's just not as comfortable in my hand.

 

On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 05:17:09 -0500, "Mark D. Zacharias"
<spammenot@yis.us> wrote:

Butting in....

So what are you guys' favorite meters?

I mentioned my Beckman 223 died. I always liked the Fluke 77, and don't need
special stuff like frequency counter, computer connectivity or the like.

I had a beckman at one place I worked and I remember it was great for
battery life. Some other meters I was always replacing the 9v
battery.

 

[JANA]

You will have to have the set properly checked by a service tech. This can
be a fault in the power supply, or the high voltage. It is also possible
that there is a protection circuit fault as well. It is not common for a CRT
to cause the description that are indicating here.

The tech will take readings and do some basic tests to determine where the
failure is. This way he or she can give you a proper estimate to service the
set. From this, you will be able to make an intelligent decision if the set
is worth servicing or not.

--

JANA
_____

"John Q Public" <poster409@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:11885-425836B0-10@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net...

hi I have a sony kv20fv12 wega tv about 2-3 years old.

the other night it made a quick small kind of "sizzle" noise. The screen
went dark. sound still there.I changed channels thinking it could have
been the cable signal. The picture came back for a second, then went
dark, did that a couple-few times, same thing.
Turned it off for a few hours
Turned it back on, all seems ok, good picture and sound,

EXCEPT,

Now when it turns on, sometimes I see what I can only describe as a
sort of arc of rainbow colored light across the screen a bit higher than
the center,

and then when turing it off,

I see a round blob of rainbow colored light about maybe 3-4 inches in
size at the center of the screen which slowly fades away.

I never saw it do either one of those things before it made the quick
little sizzle noise and the screen went dark.

But anyway, the question is,

Is the TV set on its way out? Is that the picture tube going bad or
something else inside maybe minor and cheap, and is it worth even having
it looked at , or should I run it to death, then just throw it away?

I thought sony wega was a really good tv

any opinions helpful

 

[kip]

I do like the 73, I really don't like that newer tapered design, still
can't
figure out why they did that, it's just not as comfortable in my hand.


They change things just for the hell of it iam sure, take a look

at the Wellar Soldering Gun from the 60,s and look at the present day one.

kip


"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
newsbV5e.8560$ox3.6539@trnddc03...

"Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@yis.us> wrote in message
news:1113046516.29f0cea6b57a545932f6032c8dd24249@teranews...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <1113041834.9f8b2a4a76b747234f6c372302da2be1@teranews>,
Mark D. Zacharias <spammenot@yis.us> wrote:
Is the Fluke 77 mark 3 any good? The 87 seems a bit big for my
purposes, though I suppose I could get used to it. What other models
would you all recommend?

I've got a 179, and am very pleased with it. Does have frequency
counting though - and temperature.

Auto ranging and hold with min max.

Only think I dislike is the near rigid test leads. ;_)

The 73 looks pretty nice - and doesn't taper down towards the base like
the
77 III, which looks kind of unstable to me.

 

[NSM]

<paulodonohoe@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113038318.484608.20630@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

It is printed on the block that it's 25 ohms and that is what I am
getting.
I will have a look again and see if I can find the thermostat. There is
a dial
on the front panel that controls the temperature " 1 to 5" but I
presumed this was just another variable resistor. I'm afraid the owners
manual is not very helpful.

Never seen an electronic one. It should be a mechanical thermostat. I'd take
a look at that - see if something is damaged. Also, if you have a 'hot'
light there should be another 'stat somewhere IMO.
--
N

 

[NSM]

"Do Little Jr" <listed@space.go> wrote in message
news:QBF5e.50$_G2.32@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...

"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in
message news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_4256d9cb@fidonet.org...

[.... ]

Rare VTVM's used a 100 Meg ohm input but the standard was 10 Meg.

Sorry Asimov, I find that questionable at best.
For even in 1950 - 60' any 'industrial workhorse' like the tube-type
HP 410B used 100 Meg ohms input as a standard input
It was only when the DVM came on the scene that most inputs
appeared to drop to 10 Meg Ohms.

It was a rare VTVM example that wasn't 11 Meg, 1 Meg in the DC probe.
--
N

 

Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote:

The analog and digital displays share the same space as in
Coherent's Fieldmaster:
http://www.cohr.com/Lasers/index.cfm?fuseaction=show.page&id=254&loc=830

It's hard to tell from the small picture, but it looks like the meter
scale is part of the LCD. That seems interesting, especially if there
are different scales on the LCD for different ranges. In other words,
when you set it to "foo x 10", the "0...10" scale lights up, and when
you set it to "foo x 1000", the "0...1000" scale lights up. The other
day, I played with a small Omron industrial timer that works this way...
the hash marks and setting pointer are dimensionless, but there are
little windows by the major hash marks. As you turn a switch to set
the range of the timer, the current value for that hash mark appears
in the window. There was also a window for the units, which would
change from seconds to minutes to hours by moving another switch. All
of the indications were done mechanically.

Having a scale like this would seem to fix a common problem of new analog
meter users: which scale to read and what to multiply it by. The reading
is still indicated by the moving needle, but the scale can be read
directly. Of course, the Coherent meter also has the direct digital
readout to eliminate this problem, but this might be an interesting way
to build a meter with just an analog display.

Matt Roberds

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

mroberds@worldnet.att.net writes:

Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote:
The analog and digital displays share the same space as in
Coherent's Fieldmaster:
http://www.cohr.com/Lasers/index.cfm?fuseaction=show.page&id=254&loc=830

It's hard to tell from the small picture, but it looks like the meter
scale is part of the LCD. That seems interesting, especially if there
are different scales on the LCD for different ranges. In other words,
when you set it to "foo x 10", the "0...10" scale lights up, and when
you set it to "foo x 1000", the "0...1000" scale lights up. The other
day, I played with a small Omron industrial timer that works this way...
the hash marks and setting pointer are dimensionless, but there are
little windows by the major hash marks. As you turn a switch to set
the range of the timer, the current value for that hash mark appears
in the window. There was also a window for the units, which would
change from seconds to minutes to hours by moving another switch. All
of the indications were done mechanically.

Having a scale like this would seem to fix a common problem of new analog
meter users: which scale to read and what to multiply it by. The reading
is still indicated by the moving needle, but the scale can be read
directly. Of course, the Coherent meter also has the direct digital
readout to eliminate this problem, but this might be an interesting way
to build a meter with just an analog display.

The tick marks are fixed but the LCD tells you what the scale factor is.
The needle is real.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Don Bruder]

In article <0001HW.BE7B8A28005F1D51F04075B0@news.sonic.net>,
DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

On Thu, 7 Apr 2005 14:20:53 -0700, Don Bruder wrote
(in article <Vuh5e.13692$m31.134896@typhoon.sonic.net&gt:

What brand of machine are we speaking of here, anyway?

Apple Macintosh PowerBook G3.

Then I'd bet my last nickel your keyboard is operating exactly as I
described, using the "three sheets of plastic sandwich". Apple tends
strongly toward the "Find a design that works, then stick with it until
something else changes raadically enough to force an alteration to that
design" philosophy when it comes to "other than the motherboard" stuff.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.

 

[Do Little Jr]

"NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote in message newsHY5e.17073$vt1.97@edtnps90...

"Do Little Jr" <listed@space.go> wrote in message
news:QBF5e.50$_G2.32@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...
"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in
message news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_4256d9cb@fidonet.org...

[.... ]

Rare VTVM's used a 100 Meg ohm input but the standard was 10 Meg.

Sorry Asimov, I find that questionable at best.
For even in 1950 - 60' any 'industrial workhorse' like the tube-type
HP 410B used 100 Meg ohms input as a standard input
It was only when the DVM came on the scene that most inputs
appeared to drop to 10 Meg Ohms.

It was a rare VTVM example that wasn't 11 Meg, 1 Meg in the DC probe.

Just for fun I looked up that old HP 410B. I still have one unit here, for
nothing in the modern digital world can replace it with just 'one' unit!

The HP410B input as listed in the manual (complete with circuit diagram)
was 122 Meg Ohm. Now, lets compare that to today's DVM, first of all,
where are the circuit diagrams? (true, one cannot find custom IC's anyway,
so it immediately becomes junk)

As for RF measurement does the modern DVM with a max reading of
100 KHz or if lucky maybe 2 MHz, really qualify or compare to that
old tube-job (RMS 1 - 350 Volts) that was stable to 700 MHz and
even useful to 1000 MHz? DVM still have some catching up to do...