Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Andy Cuffe]

On 3 Apr 2005 07:44:07 -0700, stefan.toftevall@bredband.net (Stefan
Toftevall) wrote:

Hi everyone,
My good old laserprinter suddenly refuse to print with the display
showing: "50-Needs service". Anyone know what is wrong?
I heard somebody say it has got an internal counter, and after a
certain amount of printouts, it display this message though it must
not be anything wrong. The counter needs reseting in some way.
Anyhow, any advice is appreciated,
Regards, Stefan

That error means the fuser isn't getting up to temperature. It could
be a blown fuser heater lamp, thermal fuse, or the control circuit.
Andy Cuffe

baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005

acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 4 Apr 2005 19:19:42 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:

I have some new wiring runs and was doing some checking before
connecting to mains when I discovered that a 9V battery was pushing 25
or so micro-amps down a circuit that was supposed to be open, as
nothing was plugged into the GFCI outlets and and lamp sockets were
also empty.

9V/25microamps = 360Kohms

This was causing a reduction in voltage due to the battery
being loaded.

360Kohms isn't going to load a 9V battery (unless it is already flat).

Looking further, I found that each GFCI (there are 3 in
parallel in this circuit) had continuity from live to neutral and
showed a resistance of about 360 Ohms on a DMM, causing about 120 Ohms
at the end that is supposed to go into the breaker panel.

This works out to about 30mA per GFCI. Sounds like the normal trip
current to me. ???

The GFCIs are
made by Pass & Seymour (also says Legrand on the box). Their website
doesn't address this issue. These are their "premium" line and have an
LED on the front. A Leviton GFCI without any LED shows an open between
the live and neutral.

I don't know if all the GCFIs I bought can be simultaneously defective;
or whether the LED or their current monitoring circuit us causing the
continuity. 360 Ohms seems an awfully low resistance to show to 120V
AC. Is the behavior under DC different than AC for a GFCI outlet? Seems
pretty spooky...

I would remove the GFCI's completely and do an insulation test
(megger) on the newly installed wiring alone. If you can't do a megger
test then try a simple test with your dmm. That will prove whether the
wiring has any insulation breakdown to neutral or earth. Test the
GFCI's while they are on the bench and see what you get.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 4 Apr 2005 18:55:29 -0700, alarmassoc@erols.com wrote:

hello all,
i did a bad thing. i was testing a generator i had repaired
in my garage. I hooked it up to my garage power panel and the
current was not stable. I forgot to turn off my favorite
sony tv. now it is dead it has no response to the remote
and the push button. took the back off everything looks
ok. any help would be greatly apreciated.(it's the only
tv I have control of. darn ol wife and kids!

If you're lucky you may only have blown the front end of the power
supply. Maybe even something as simple as an onboard fuse, but I don't
have the circuit for that tv so that is only a guess. I would
certainly get someone to look at it if you can't do it yourself.

BTW, when you want to test a newly repaired generator, do it on a
stand-alone incandescent bulb (100W or so), or a bar radiator if the
geneset is heavy duty, on your bench. If it blows or seems excessively
bright you know something major is wrong.

Ross H

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1112649993.563557.203680@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
captainvideo462002@yahoo.com <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:

The problem is we don't use our color printers very often and in the
interim the color cartridges dry up. The black ones do too in record
time it seems also. This is frustrating and expensive as well. We
bought a refill kit for our specified cartridges, and tried refilling
the blacks first. We drilled the hole on top and refilled them and then
plugged the hole all with only marginal success. I have two black ones
sitting in front of me right now that are refilled but won't print. Is
there a trick to successfully doing this? And is there anything I can
do to try to prolong the life of these stupid things between long
periods of inactivity? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

The usual reason (IMHO) is ink in the head drying out through lack of use
and clogging it. And although it's basically water soluble when wet, after
drying it ain't. Things like IPA or ammonia are likely to shift it - but
you'll have to remove the head and soak it in it. More desperate measures
involve forcing IPA through the head with a syringe type device. The
squeezy bottles some replacement inks come in are ideal for this - use
some sleeving as a tube to join them.

You could try doing a search on your printer. I easily found instructions
on how to remove the heads on mine.

--
*One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <xAl4e.155656$gJ3.78397@clgrps13>,
NSM <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

Indeed, a low input impedance meter has a lot going for it in many day
to day measurements. And of course a swinging meter needle can often
tell more than a digital readout. And is very difficult to blow into
the middle of next week. ;-)

I used a DVM to check for leakage on an AC line and got false readings.
A 'real' meter worked better.

You could, of course, simply use a parallel resistor to bring a DVM more
into line with a needle type. Something like 240k ohms for 240 volts.

--
*He who laughs last has just realised the joke.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Art]

plotsligt@comcast will follow my tracks. post me !!
<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1112656874.693506.122000@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Thanks Art;

I tried searching around the web after I tried your steps, actually
Panasonic's steps. FYI they omitted the fact that you press mute to
toggle between the move and adjust modes. Still omitted is the exact
way to get into the convergence mode. No matter what subcategory I'm
in, the number buttons still change the channels. This is of course
frustrating.

If you've actually done convergence on one of these, can you tell me
just how to get to that crosshatch screen ? If not I might ship the set
minus 50 bucks or something and order the manual, then I can do the
touchup in the customer's home.

Chalk this up to another thing I don't like about Panasonics.

BTW, I would email you but I'm not getting it off this Google groups
thing. Are you still stubby @ that com thing, dot net ?

Thanks again, but I'm still missing a piece of the puzzle here.

JURB

 

[Art]

Jurb: Check if the second step had been obmitted in previous notations.

1: Enter Serviceman mode
2: Select V1 DAC
3: Press Volume + - to enter Converence Adjustment Mode
4: Press 3 to select GREEN
5: Press 0 [Zero] then SWAP to show positions
6: Press 5 to show crosshatch pattern
7: Channel +- and Volume +- will change cursor postion
8: Press 5 to exit superimposed pattern
9: Press TV/VIDEO to display DATA PHASE ADJ
10: Volume +- to make curve [cursor display] smooth and symetrical
11: Press 7 then SWAP to STORE DATA
12: Press 0 [ZERO} to return to convergence adjustments
13: Press TV/VIDEO to switch from Point to Line to Easy2 to Peri and then to
Point
Rest is same after pressing # to select the othr colours. Hope this helps.
I've four pages of notes, RE: Convergence, from the manuel if you want to
have me fax to you, E-Mail me at previous address.
<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1112656874.693506.122000@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Thanks Art;

I tried searching around the web after I tried your steps, actually
Panasonic's steps. FYI they omitted the fact that you press mute to
toggle between the move and adjust modes. Still omitted is the exact
way to get into the convergence mode. No matter what subcategory I'm
in, the number buttons still change the channels. This is of course
frustrating.

If you've actually done convergence on one of these, can you tell me
just how to get to that crosshatch screen ? If not I might ship the set
minus 50 bucks or something and order the manual, then I can do the
touchup in the customer's home.

Chalk this up to another thing I don't like about Panasonics.

BTW, I would email you but I'm not getting it off this Google groups
thing. Are you still stubby @ that com thing, dot net ?

Thanks again, but I'm still missing a piece of the puzzle here.

JURB

 

[Dan]

I had an HP inkjet for about 10 years, mostly used the black which I was
able to refill multiple times before the printer crapped out
mechanically (paper feed issues). If you need mostly black, these days
you can get a new mono laser printer for ~$200. I have a Brother HL5140
which is about a year old, had good reviews when I got it, goes for
about $200 now
http://www.brother.com/usa/printer/info/hl5140/hl5140_ove.html. At
these prices it doesn't make sense to fool with inkjets for B&W.
Inkjets sell cheap & they make their money peddling cartridges, not
printers, also some of the newer cartridges are dated and actually
EXPIRE (all to protect your printer and to maintain optimum print
quality, you understand. Uh-huh) so if you buy several to have on hand
when one runs out (since most are so damned SMALL) the last one(s) on
the shelf may not work even though it has never been out of the package,
not because it's defective, but because it's expired. This can also be
a factor if you refill the same cartridge repeatedly.

Dan

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112649993.563557.203680@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

The problem is we don't use our color printers very often and in the
interim the color cartridges dry up. The black ones do too in record
time it seems also. This is frustrating and expensive as well. We
bought a refill kit for our specified cartridges, and tried refilling
the blacks first. We drilled the hole on top and refilled them and then
plugged the hole all with only marginal success. I have two black ones
sitting in front of me right now that are refilled but won't print. Is
there a trick to successfully doing this? And is there anything I can
do to try to prolong the life of these stupid things between long
periods of inactivity? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

 

[Bob Shuman]

What is the actual voltage from the DC power supply across the + and -
battery terminals when you attempt to use the supply and have the toy
activated? My guess is that the batteries are putting out more current than
the supply is capable of delivering or the gauge of wire you are using is
too small. In either case the voltage at the battery terminals should be
well under the 4.5V nominal and is likely insufficient for the application.
The solution here is a larger capacity supply and/or heavier gauge wire.

Another possibility is that the DC supply you are using may have high AC
ripple thereby reducing the effective voltage. In this case you can add a
large filter capacitor and see if this improves the performance.

Bob

<chris-google@pobox.com> wrote in message
news:1112720568.760726.176010@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I've got a piece of electronics on my bench that is normally powered by
3 C batteries, wired in series and thus producing about 4.5 Volts. I
wanted to power this device with a bench power supply just so I don't
drain the batteries while I'm experimenting with it for hours.

 

[Larry Brasfield]

"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:S82dnckvVsPQ5M3fRVn-hg@comcast.com...

Actually time to turn this one over to the repair shops and stop the dribble!! IMHO

That would depend on the OP's desire and resources,
would it not? I doubt you know enough to gauge either
at this point.

Mr. Terrell's suggestion to take the issue to
news:sci.electronics.repair
is more appropriate under the circumstances,
IMHO. Followups set accordingly.

"Larry Brasfield" <donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:LIY3e.56$D53.798@news.uswest.net...
"Lessie" <lessie__@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d2pjug$1qq$1@domitilla.aioe.org...
When the picture suddenly goes on a t.v., what is it usually
due to?

Operation of the power switch.

I don't think this could be it, as there is sound, hence the power switch
must be delivering current.

Hmmm. I almost wrote that more symptoms would
help narrow the cause a bit. <g

Are you thinking of fixing a TV? If so, you will
be concerned with why yours is broken, not
common cases. That said, a common failure
is breakdown of the flyback HV winding, a
fairly expensive part to replace.

Are there cheap generic replacements? What is
expensive 10 Pounds or 100 Pounds ?

They may have become generic lately. When I was
last looking into it. the transformers tended to have
so many taps, different output voltages, and primary
inductance values, that they were all different.

If you really want to diagnose your TV's problem,
it would help to describe more of what you can see,
especially with different input stimulii if they vary the
result. For example, how long after turn-on before
the picture "goes". What does "goes" look like?
Does it ever come back? Is there a change in the
sound emitted? Any odd smells? What can you
see when you open the cover and shine a light on
the circuit board(s)? Do you have any instruments
to apply to the task? Are you willing to purchase
the schematic for the set?

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.

 

[EL]

I'll second what Bob said, use a meter and make sure the correct voltage is actually making it to the battery terminals on
the device.

Another idea, this is unusual but not unheard of: make sure the device only has one (+) and one (-) connection to the
batteries. Some things (R/C cars, trucks, etc. commonly) have power connections *in between* the batteries to effectively
provide a bipolar or mutiple-voltage supply.

Eric Law

<chris-google@pobox.com> wrote in message news:1112720568.760726.176010@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I've got a piece of electronics on my bench that is normally powered by
3 C batteries, wired in series and thus producing about 4.5 Volts. I
wanted to power this device with a bench power supply just so I don't
drain the batteries while I'm experimenting with it for hours.

But it won't work with the DC power supply -- it's the weirdest thing.
With the batteries, the device (a child's toy) chatters away at full
power, but if I disconnect the batteries and wire in the DC PS in their
place, it runs veeeeery slowly, if at all.

I feel like it's the 18th century and I'm missing the right amount of
"essence" or "ether" or "humours" or something

I've checked and double checked the voltage including polarity. I've
tried running at depressed voltage (e.g. 3-4V). The power supply
should be able to provide far more current than the batteries, and at a
low output impedance. I have two power supplies, one a fancy bench
model and the other a wall wart, and it does the same thing with both.
Only with the magic batteries will it work properly.

Perhaps related, in the device at the + side of the battery back is an
orange disc which appears to be a ceramic capacitor wired in SERIES,
but I don't see how it could be given that this is a DC device. I've
been attaching the DC PS on the battery side of this disc, in order to
provide DC power to the circuit just like the batteries. I don't know
if this is relevant.

Any ideas?

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 5 Apr 2005 10:02:48 -0700, chris-google@pobox.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:

Perhaps related, in the device at the + side of the battery back is an
orange disc which appears to be a ceramic capacitor wired in SERIES,
but I don't see how it could be given that this is a DC device. I've
been attaching the DC PS on the battery side of this disc, in order to
provide DC power to the circuit just like the batteries. I don't know
if this is relevant.

Any ideas?

The disc is probably a "polyswitch" PTC.
http://www.wagner.net.au/Catalogue/02_17.pdf

It provides automatically resettable protection from overloads.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

Either RF or IR is likely to be a problem if 10 or 50 people all push
the "vote" button at the same time. There are ways to enable this, but
they are likely to be complex and costly.

Bill
-------------------

NSM wrote:

"Steve" <popmusic@att.net> wrote in message
news:1112591232.647394.18540@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I'm putting together a talent show and would like audience members to
vote for performers using keypads. I think I need a bunch of infrared
transmitters/keypads, a receiver, a computer, and some software. Does
anyone have an idea where I can get the keypads and put together such a
system inexpensively? Thanks for any info.


IR will suck. Use RF.

 

[NSM]

"Bill Jeffrey" <wjeffreyAT@alum.DOTmit.edu> wrote in message
news:6IE4e.74283$AN1.15178@fed1read03...

Either RF or IR is likely to be a problem if 10 or 50 people all push
the "vote" button at the same time. There are ways to enable this, but
they are likely to be complex and costly.

That's a different problem, but who wants to hear the whining if the IR
signal doesn't register?
--
N

 

[CJT]

Bill Jeffrey wrote:

Either RF or IR is likely to be a problem if 10 or 50 people all push
the "vote" button at the same time. There are ways to enable this, but
they are likely to be complex and costly.

Bill
-------------------

NSM wrote:

"Steve" <popmusic@att.net> wrote in message
news:1112591232.647394.18540@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I'm putting together a talent show and would like audience members to
vote for performers using keypads. I think I need a bunch of infrared
transmitters/keypads, a receiver, a computer, and some software. Does
anyone have an idea where I can get the keypads and put together such a
system inexpensively? Thanks for any info.



IR will suck. Use RF.

http://www.cinematrix.com/

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[NSM]

"CJT" <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:42534F6B.1010309@prodigy.net...

http://www.cinematrix.com/

There you go. That should do it. Engineering a new solution will be very
expensive.
--
N

 

[James Sweet]

"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112750371.484882.131780@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

wizzzer@hotmail.com wrote:
I got a pack of 4 fuses for $2.50 from Radio Shack. I replaced the
fuse
and the VCR is working perfectly now. It's a Panasonic VCR and it's
the
best one I ever had. Never gives me problems.


in this situation it is critical to observe the condition of the fuse
which has gone. If it is blackened, then that would often indicate a
short further down the line inside the machine's psu and it should not
be powered up again without extensive testing of the parts.

If the fuse is simply open or broken, you may be lucky and replacing it
might be all.
Reemember: in electronics troubleshooting don't look for the fire, look
for the kid with the matches. replacing fuses means you are only
looking at the symptoms ,not the root cause of the failure.

-Ben

Good advice, seems lately I've encountered more fuses where the element
simply broke mechanically rather than blowing. The only thing I've ever seen
occasionally blow fuses with no other problem are microwave ovens, all it
takes is for a door interlock switch to stick momentarily.

 

[James Sweet]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4d56c21e7ddave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <xAl4e.155656$gJ3.78397@clgrps13>,
NSM <nowrite@to.me> wrote:
Indeed, a low input impedance meter has a lot going for it in many day
to day measurements. And of course a swinging meter needle can often
tell more than a digital readout. And is very difficult to blow into
the middle of next week. ;-)

I used a DVM to check for leakage on an AC line and got false readings.
A 'real' meter worked better.

You could, of course, simply use a parallel resistor to bring a DVM more
into line with a needle type. Something like 240k ohms for 240 volts.

The one area where I find an analog meter to really be easier is when you
want to monitor the relative amplitude of some varying signal, it's a lot
easier to visualize than jumpy digital numbers. For a quantitive value
though digital is SO much easier.

 

[x52Mike]

Do you still have this part in Stock?

tztnp01mmsb Panasonic
Description: Panasonic pc board
Notes:

 

[x52Mike]

Do you have this in stock?

txfcrt14fser Panasonic
Description: crt