Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

<dewdrops@2die4.com> wrote in message
news:1112765495.124632.269610@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
i hope somebody can help me. i bought a doerr pump at a garage sale the
other day.
Click to expand...
For what purpose? How is the lubrication?
--
N
 
<peter_semple@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1112758303.517704.83970@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I need a bit of help with a bass guitar amplifier, or
at least a few questions answered. Bear with me while
I tell you what has happened up to now with it.

It blew a while ago. I had made a compressor to go
between the bass and the amp. It was constructed from
a kit. The chip used is an Analog devices chip that
is supposed to be a mic preamp with a compressor built
in. The kit is sold as a compressor for guitar.
Click to expand...
Check the electrolytic caps in the PSU since they are a more likely problem.


--
Regards ..... Rheilly Phoull
 
Was their april fool i guess.

Bart Bervoets
"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112750972.278519.37950@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/HOLOSC.htm

LOL
wonder if anyone tried to buy that!!!
-Ben
Click to expand...
 
On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 13:10:41 -0400, Dan
<Prograde49NONSPAMMM@hotmail.com> wrote:

I had an HP inkjet for about 10 years, mostly used the black which I was
able to refill multiple times before the printer crapped out
mechanically (paper feed issues). If you need mostly black, these days
you can get a new mono laser printer for ~$200. I have a Brother HL5140
which is about a year old, had good reviews when I got it, goes for
about $200 now
http://www.brother.com/usa/printer/info/hl5140/hl5140_ove.html. At
these prices it doesn't make sense to fool with inkjets for B&W.
Inkjets sell cheap & they make their money peddling cartridges, not
printers, also some of the newer cartridges are dated and actually
EXPIRE (all to protect your printer and to maintain optimum print
quality, you understand. Uh-huh) so if you buy several to have on hand
when one runs out (since most are so damned SMALL) the last one(s) on
the shelf may not work even though it has never been out of the package,
not because it's defective, but because it's expired. This can also be
a factor if you refill the same cartridge repeatedly.

Dan


captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112649993.563557.203680@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

The problem is we don't use our color printers very often and in the
interim the color cartridges dry up. The black ones do too in record
time it seems also. This is frustrating and expensive as well. We
bought a refill kit for our specified cartridges, and tried refilling
the blacks first. We drilled the hole on top and refilled them and then
plugged the hole all with only marginal success. I have two black ones
sitting in front of me right now that are refilled but won't print. Is
there a trick to successfully doing this? And is there anything I can
do to try to prolong the life of these stupid things between long
periods of inactivity? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
Click to expand...
What we need in the consumer end of things is a inkjet printer with an
ink reservoir where all you have to do is just pour ink in and close
the lid.
I have a commercial inkjet plotter that has just that, ink tanks with
flip up lids.
Problem is the cost of such a printer is too high for someone who just
needs a low cost reliable printer for occasional use.(Mine cost me
2,300 bucks US. But then we do graphic pre-press and need a reliable
plotter for doing proofs.)
Back in the mid 90's we got bent over more than once by sales reps
from Epson buying their so called "professional" inkjet printers.(I
have a closet full of Epson high end printers just collecting dust. A
stylus pro XL, a 1500, a 3200 colorado and a couple of their
photo-printers. ALL junk!)
I've given some of the other brands a try for use around the office on
various stations and have gravitated to Canon BJC-100's since most of
the internal stuff is just B&W anyway.
I can pick these units up at garage sales or goodwill for a couple of
bucks and by buying new blank generic cartridge blanks and filling
them myself can get by for the least amount of outlay.(I usually get
3-5 refills out of each cartridge before they fry out.)
Not since the days of snake oil salesmen have we seen such blatant and
obscene crookery.
Inkjet salespersons should be required to slither up to you on their
bellies as you enter the store.
 
In article <KOI4e.6601$Tm5.1917@trnddc07>,
James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
The one area where I find an analog meter to really be easier is when you
want to monitor the relative amplitude of some varying signal, it's a lot
easier to visualize than jumpy digital numbers. For a quantitive value
though digital is SO much easier.
Click to expand...
Better DVMs have a linear bar display to show you roughly the same thing.

--
*How much deeper would the oceans be without sponges? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Bloody shame that the original poster did not even take the time to post the
make, model and/or chassis so at least we have a flippin chance at
diagnosing, The original post indicated total lack of any intelligence
regarding actually servicing these devices. therefore the best option, IMHO,
is the fact that professional services would be mandated. Duh!
"Larry Brasfield" <donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2rA4e.66$3n3.458@news.uswest.net...
"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:S82dnckvVsPQ5M3fRVn-hg@comcast.com...
Actually time to turn this one over to the repair shops and stop the
dribble!! IMHO

That would depend on the OP's desire and resources,
would it not? I doubt you know enough to gauge either
at this point.

Mr. Terrell's suggestion to take the issue to
news:sci.electronics.repair
is more appropriate under the circumstances,
IMHO. Followups set accordingly.

"Larry Brasfield" <donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:LIY3e.56$D53.798@news.uswest.net...
"Lessie" <lessie__@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d2pjug$1qq$1@domitilla.aioe.org...
When the picture suddenly goes on a t.v., what is it usually
due to?

Operation of the power switch.

I don't think this could be it, as there is sound, hence the power
switch
must be delivering current.

Hmmm. I almost wrote that more symptoms would
help narrow the cause a bit. <g

Are you thinking of fixing a TV? If so, you will
be concerned with why yours is broken, not
common cases. That said, a common failure
is breakdown of the flyback HV winding, a
fairly expensive part to replace.

Are there cheap generic replacements? What is
expensive 10 Pounds or 100 Pounds ?

They may have become generic lately. When I was
last looking into it. the transformers tended to have
so many taps, different output voltages, and primary
inductance values, that they were all different.

If you really want to diagnose your TV's problem,
it would help to describe more of what you can see,
especially with different input stimulii if they vary the
result. For example, how long after turn-on before
the picture "goes". What does "goes" look like?
Does it ever come back? Is there a change in the
sound emitted? Any odd smells? What can you
see when you open the cover and shine a light on
the circuit board(s)? Do you have any instruments
to apply to the task? Are you willing to purchase
the schematic for the set?

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.
Click to expand...
 
On 5 Apr 2005 07:51:02 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:

Ross Herbert wrote:
On 4 Apr 2005 19:19:42 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:
connecting to mains when I discovered that a 9V battery was pushing
25
or so micro-amps down a circuit that was supposed to be open, as

9V/25microamps = 360Kohms
360Kohms isn't going to load a 9V battery (unless it is already
flat).

The reason I said that is the voltage across the battery terminals is
more when it isn't connected to the circuit.

Looking further, I found that each GFCI (there are 3 in
parallel in this circuit) had continuity from live to neutral and
showed a resistance of about 360 Ohms on a DMM, causing about 120
Ohms
at the end that is supposed to go into the breaker panel.

This works out to about 30mA per GFCI. Sounds like the normal trip
current to me. ???

If it was the trip current, seems a little high... but the conditions
for tripping don't exist (as far as I can tell).

wiring has any insulation breakdown to neutral or earth. Test the
GFCI's while they are on the bench and see what you get.

The branches disconnected from the GFCI are open between L, N, and
ground. Continuity begins as soon as the GFCI outlets are put back into
the circuit.
Click to expand...
The wiring itself should be ok then. Taking a look at the way a GFCI
works http://www-training.llnl.gov/wbt/hc/Electrical/GFCIworks.html
then with no load connected to the output of the GFCI then connecting
an ohmmeter across L - N at the input should read high resistance.

Sam Goldwasser has a page devoted to GFCI and their working so you
might get some further insight from there.

Good luck.
 
On 5 Apr 2005 20:31:43 -0700, peter_semple@hotmail.com wrote:

I need a bit of help with a bass guitar amplifier, or
at least a few questions answered. Bear with me while
I tell you what has happened up to now with it.
Click to expand...
Snip


Peter, perhaps the first thing you should do is tell us the amp make
and model. That way your description can be related directly to the
schematic which I'm sure someone will have.
 
Kim Sleep <ksleep@sympatico.ca> wrote:
I cannot believe that since this jackass cannot set his internal date, that
Im stuck with this stupid posting for another 3 months at the top of my
newsgroups
Click to expand...
Get a better reader and learn how quoting works...

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4d56c21e7ddave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article <xAl4e.155656$gJ3.78397@clgrps13>,
NSM <nowrite@to.me> wrote:
Indeed, a low input impedance meter has a lot going for it in many day
to day measurements. And of course a swinging meter needle can often
tell more than a digital readout. And is very difficult to blow into
the middle of next week. ;-)

I used a DVM to check for leakage on an AC line and got false readings.
A 'real' meter worked better.

You could, of course, simply use a parallel resistor to bring a DVM more
into line with a needle type. Something like 240k ohms for 240 volts.
Click to expand...
A typical needle type VOM has a resistance of 20,000 ohms/V. So, on the
500 V range, it would have a resistance of 10M ohm. On higher voltage
ranges, the VOM would have a higher resistance than a typical DMM. Older
Simpson 260s have a 5,000 range with an input impedance of 100M ohm.

The one area where I find an analog meter to really be easier is when you
want to monitor the relative amplitude of some varying signal, it's a lot
easier to visualize than jumpy digital numbers. For a quantitive value
though digital is SO much easier.
Click to expand...
Absolutely, or should I asy Relatively!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
dewdrops@2die4.com writes:

i hope somebody can help me. i bought a doerr pump at a garage sale the

other day. they guy tol dme it had never been used but tis a little
old. it has a strange plug almost looks like a 240 volt. but the pump
says that its 115v. i know very little about motors! when i connect it

to my outlet with some wires.. it makes a humming noise and starts to
heat up. the motor is defineitly not spinning. im pretty sure the pump
works, im just doing something wrong. any ideas? the following is on
the pump patent:3311293 insul class a 5.4 A 60HZ 1725 rpm 1/4 hp mod no
0522v103c(?)186 single phase mtr ref 50156aa733 fr h487. thanks for
your help!
Click to expand...
A pump that hasn't been used for a long time might be stuck. Can you
get at the motor to see if it turns freely?

What exactly does the plug look like? Possibly a twist-lock, or are the
prongs not at the same orientation as for a normal 3 prong 115 plug?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> writes:

In article <KOI4e.6601$Tm5.1917@trnddc07>,
James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
The one area where I find an analog meter to really be easier is when you
want to monitor the relative amplitude of some varying signal, it's a lot
easier to visualize than jumpy digital numbers. For a quantitive value
though digital is SO much easier.

Better DVMs have a linear bar display to show you roughly the same thing.
Click to expand...
I find those pretty useless, not the same as a real needle. :)

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
Ross Herbert <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> writes:

On 5 Apr 2005 07:51:02 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:


Ross Herbert wrote:
On 4 Apr 2005 19:19:42 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:
connecting to mains when I discovered that a 9V battery was pushing
25
or so micro-amps down a circuit that was supposed to be open, as

9V/25microamps = 360Kohms
360Kohms isn't going to load a 9V battery (unless it is already
flat).

The reason I said that is the voltage across the battery terminals is
more when it isn't connected to the circuit.

Looking further, I found that each GFCI (there are 3 in
parallel in this circuit) had continuity from live to neutral and
showed a resistance of about 360 Ohms on a DMM, causing about 120
Ohms
at the end that is supposed to go into the breaker panel.

This works out to about 30mA per GFCI. Sounds like the normal trip
current to me. ???

If it was the trip current, seems a little high... but the conditions
for tripping don't exist (as far as I can tell).

wiring has any insulation breakdown to neutral or earth. Test the
GFCI's while they are on the bench and see what you get.

The branches disconnected from the GFCI are open between L, N, and
ground. Continuity begins as soon as the GFCI outlets are put back into
the circuit.

The wiring itself should be ok then. Taking a look at the way a GFCI
works http://www-training.llnl.gov/wbt/hc/Electrical/GFCIworks.html
then with no load connected to the output of the GFCI then connecting
an ohmmeter across L - N at the input should read high resistance.

Sam Goldwasser has a page devoted to GFCI and their working so you
might get some further insight from there.
Click to expand...
http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm#top

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
In article <6wis3081fx.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote:
You could, of course, simply use a parallel resistor to bring a DVM
more into line with a needle type. Something like 240k ohms for 240
volts.

A typical needle type VOM has a resistance of 20,000 ohms/V.
Click to expand...
Yup - that's common for a decent AVO on DC. But assuming no electronics,
1000 ohms/V AC is also common. Looking for the best pure non electronic
one I can find, this goes to 40,000 DC and 4,000 AC.

But for measuring home mains, 1000 ohms/V is fine. Stops those silly
readings caused by coupling of one sort or another.

--
*What was the best thing before sliced bread? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
On 5 Apr 2005 18:19:31 -0700, "b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote:

wizzzer@hotmail.com wrote:
I got a pack of 4 fuses for $2.50 from Radio Shack. I replaced the
fuse
and the VCR is working perfectly now. It's a Panasonic VCR and it's
the
best one I ever had. Never gives me problems.


in this situation it is critical to observe the condition of the fuse
which has gone. If it is blackened, then that would often indicate a
short further down the line inside the machine's psu and it should not
be powered up again without extensive testing of the parts.

If the fuse is simply open or broken, you may be lucky and replacing it
might be all.
Reemember: in electronics troubleshooting don't look for the fire, look
for the kid with the matches. replacing fuses means you are only
looking at the symptoms ,not the root cause of the failure.

-Ben
Click to expand...
I remember some kids coming up to the counter with a toasted output
amp board from some stereo. The printed circuit board was burned
clear through under the remains of a big one watt carbon resistor.

They wanted to buy a resistor ;)
 
On 06 Apr 2005 09:51:16 -0400, Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu>
wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> writes:

In article <KOI4e.6601$Tm5.1917@trnddc07>,
James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
The one area where I find an analog meter to really be easier is when you
want to monitor the relative amplitude of some varying signal, it's a lot
easier to visualize than jumpy digital numbers. For a quantitive value
though digital is SO much easier.

Better DVMs have a linear bar display to show you roughly the same thing.

I find those pretty useless, not the same as a real needle. :)
Click to expand...

I'd think more people would be using those LCD Oscopes that are about
the size of a big meter these days.
 
On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 12:44:52 -0700, been there wrote:

On 5 Apr 2005 18:19:31 -0700, "b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote:


wizzzer@hotmail.com wrote:
I got a pack of 4 fuses for $2.50 from Radio Shack. I replaced the
fuse
and the VCR is working perfectly now. It's a Panasonic VCR and it's
the
best one I ever had. Never gives me problems.


in this situation it is critical to observe the condition of the fuse
which has gone. If it is blackened, then that would often indicate a
short further down the line inside the machine's psu and it should not
be powered up again without extensive testing of the parts.

If the fuse is simply open or broken, you may be lucky and replacing it
might be all.
Reemember: in electronics troubleshooting don't look for the fire, look
for the kid with the matches. replacing fuses means you are only
looking at the symptoms ,not the root cause of the failure.

-Ben

I remember some kids coming up to the counter with a toasted output
amp board from some stereo. The printed circuit board was burned
clear through under the remains of a big one watt carbon resistor.

They wanted to buy a resistor ;)
Click to expand...

My favorite repair set was a power amp that a fellow brought in and
claimed it wouldn't shut off unless you unplugged it. Sure enough
when you plugged it in, it lit up even if you didn't throw the power
switch. There was a resistor by the front panel that burst into
flames whenever the set was plugged into the wall.
 
im not sure which design you have, some are three layers of plastic the
middle one containing holes when key pushed it makes the outer two layers
connect, what i think you have is the type that is in alot of things these
days.
my only knowledge of hall effect is in automobiles and if im right i think
there is a sensor that picks up on the magnetism, but yours i think has
the interwoven copper tracings on the board/film and the little rubber pad
has some sort of black disk underneath it, when the disk touches the
coppertracings it completes the circut, how it works im not sure, but
there is no processor needed to detect the signal, you could feed an led
lamp of off it and it would receive a weakend current through it, maybe
that pad is some sort of conductor
 
big screen tvs are similar as far as the electronics go, voltage regulator
may be bad? look for it the only real difference i know of is at the final
video stage (where the colors are driven on seperate tubes rather than one
crt) ive only worked on a few older models though
 
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