Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[AshTray700]

those things are a pain in the ass! that little rubber strip may never work
right if removed, they have to be lined up just right and some of them are
glued, ive tried it before with mixed results so you may end up with junk

 

[AshTray700]

surely that would not work, and display from the usb? even if that were
plausible it wouldnt be fast enough to get all the data through the usb
cord unless you want to go back to the refresh rate of a philco pedastal
tv lol. but to project a hologram requires expensive large projector
right??

 

[NSM]

"AshTray700" <ashtray700@aol.com> wrote in message
news:cac5ebea8879189a9dfa8dfc9c9ba00a@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

surely that would not work, and display from the usb? even if that were
plausible it wouldnt be fast enough to get all the data through the usb
cord unless you want to go back to the refresh rate of a philco pedastal
tv lol. but to project a hologram requires expensive large projector
right??

April 1. It arrived late.
--
N

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <56f851d5egmnsi08kv5hg7lkgge6bvkr11@4ax.com>,
user_1 wrote:

I'd think more people would be using those LCD Oscopes that are about
the size of a big meter these days.

Only if you're very rich, ;-)

--
*What am I? Flypaper for freaks!?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 5 Apr 2005 18:29:19 -0700, "b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/HOLOSC.htm

LOL
wonder if anyone tried to buy that!!!
-Ben

Mine arrived yesterday.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Asimov]

"NSM" bravely wrote to "All" (05 Apr 05 01:10:53)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Do multimeters "wear out" after so many years? Fluke vs. Ideal, Wav"

NS> From: "NSM" <nowrite@to.me>
NS> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:44961

NS> I used a DVM to check for leakage on an AC line and got false
NS> readings. A 'real' meter worked better.


You have to use the proper UL defined leakage testing network to get a
meaningful DMM measurement on AC operated equipment. An analog meter
with low Kohms/volt sensitivity only approximates the required network
better than a 10Megohm DMM. In fact a 10Megohm analog will also give a
false reading.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Electrical engineers deal with current events.

 

[Asimov]

"NSM" bravely wrote to "All" (05 Apr 05 01:20:53)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Infrared voting system?"

NS> From: "NSM" <nowrite@to.me>
NS> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:44963


NS> "Steve" <popmusic@att.net> wrote in message
NS> news:1112591232.647394.18540@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I'm putting together a talent show and would like audience members to
vote for performers using keypads. I think I need a bunch of infrared
transmitters/keypads, a receiver, a computer, and some software. Does
anyone have an idea where I can get the keypads and put together such a
system inexpensively? Thanks for any info.

NS> IR will suck. Use RF.

Thinking about a bunch of RF transmitters all heterodyning in the same
room, shades of Theremin!

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Isn't Fourier and it's applications a bitch!

 

[Wayne Tiffany]

Hey, cool - post a picture of you with it, please.

WT

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:gif851hd7g0lkdhja68kgecnq14egulvah@4ax.com...

On 5 Apr 2005 18:29:19 -0700, "b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/HOLOSC.htm

LOL
wonder if anyone tried to buy that!!!
-Ben

Mine arrived yesterday.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[NSM]

"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_4253ee3b@fidonet.org...

Thinking about a bunch of RF transmitters all heterodyning in the same
room, shades of Theremin!

Think about dealing with line of sight issues.
--
N

 

[CJT]

NSM wrote:

"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_4253ee3b@fidonet.org...


Thinking about a bunch of RF transmitters all heterodyning in the same

room, shades of Theremin!

Think about dealing with line of sight issues.

It's been tried and works great.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Better DVMs have a linear bar display to show you roughly the same thing.

--
*How much deeper would the oceans be without sponges? *

Dave Plowman

Have you ever had to adjust the bias or drive on a TV transmitter
with one of those? You would need new outputs before you ever got close
to the proper settings.

That "feature" is a piece of crap in the real world when you need to
see a dip or peak that's only a couple needle's widths apart.

--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Mark wrote:

dewdrops@2die4.com wrote:
i got it working! any idea where i can get new graphite for the
rotor?

auto parts store?

they sell it in little tubes for lubing locks

Mark

Its not that kind of grphite. He needs to replace the graphite vane.
--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

dewdrops@2die4.com wrote:

i got it working! any idea where i can get new graphite for the rotor?

Probably from the manufacture of the pump. Its a precision machined
part.

--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1112405696.601486.52750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Hi folks;

Again and again I see people posting here with various problems which
would send me straight to the scope probe. Does anyone use these things
anymore or what ? When you got immediate shutdown for example, what I
do is scope the HOT. Does anyone else do this ?

They'll disable shutdown, risk blowing the power supply or worse, check
50 voltages and resistances or so, when all they needed was a scope.

If you don't have a scope that'll get you to 200V/div, scope the line
feeding the 200V recifier, or you can just crank the scope down to
about 5V/div or so and just get the probe near the flyback.

OK an old Mits RPTV comes in, the one with 2 SMPSes on a board mounted
to the side (like a vs 4506 etc.)

Clicks on, clicks off. I put the probe near the fly, nothing, I put it
near each of the SMPS transformers and one of them is running a very
short pulse width, pull it, leave it plugged in and quick check for
shorts on the output lines, none, OK a few caps and an STR-S6301. Fires
up.

If I have a good waveform at the fly I go to the vertical, thumb on
probe and adjust timing until I can see the 60 Hz. Outer yellow and
green yoke lines, and bet it ain't there, or I could get a bad waveform
at the fly and then it's time to disconnect the HV, and then the yokes.
(in that order BTW). If I get a good waveform at the fly and vertical
is working I go to the 130V line and set the scope to 50V/div. Center
the trace on a line and watch it like a hawk as you hit the power. You
can plainly see if it goes up three divisions, at that point it gets an
SE130. If it levels off at what looks like 130 volts, I'll switch to
20V/div and make sure. If it is indeed in regulation I go to the ABL
line.

After ALL that I MIGHT disable the shutdown if I have nowhere else to
go. Why don't others do it like this. If you're familiar with that type
of set, is there a better or faster way ? If so tell us. This is by no
means the same for every set of course.

The main thing is, I see scopes just collect dust in shops until I get
there, sometimes. How many parts have been replaced needlessly ?

Perhaps alot of techs need a scope class or something ?

JURB

I use a 'scope for almost everything, along with an audio generator and

digital voltmeter. Of course I'm mainly an audio guy. I don't miss getting
down on the floor servicing a console in the customers' house, or fighting
with a new jug because the purity, convergence etc won't "quite" fall in.

Mark Z.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 6 Apr 2005 07:36:32 -0700, "Nexus7" <ac25kV@yahoo.com> wrote:

I received a reply from Pass & Seymour's technical support. As part of
their "line load reversal test procedure," there is a small resistor in
the GFCI that makes it trip when the outlet is first energized. I don't
know if this procedure refers to what happens when first energized, or
if it is some other test that is performed during the manufacturing
process.

In any event, I (bench) tested this on one outlet, then on the curcuit
described. All 3 outlets duly tripped and the lights came on. After
resetting, all are open between L and N, and the circuit is functioning
correctly.

Thanks to all those who replied.

Good to see you got it solved. Don't they provide a TEST button on
those units?

It is strange that the manufacturer doesn't provide that information
on a leaflet or instruction supplied with the GFCI. Perhaps you should
suggest that they do so to avoid confusion and a repeat of the problem
for others.

Now if you hadn't been so inquisitive you would have just powered it
up like anyone else and you wouldn't have been any the wiser as to the
initial leakage reading.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Art wrote:

Again! It is blatantly apparent you do not have the technical quality to
attempt this type of repair, take the flippin thing to a professional
servicer. For YOUR PERSONAL SAFETY!!

First of all, I am not the one with the bad television. I simply
pointed out that news:sci.electronics.basics was not the place to ask
about TV repair and told the OP to ask his questions on
news:sci.electronics.repair, and to give the make, model and symptoms in
the request.

As far as TV repair I was working in a TV shop in the mid '60s at the
age of 13. I moved on to broadcast, Radar CATV and aerospace
electronics. I have done things the average tech will never do and I was
taught electrical safety when I was 13. I am now 100% disabled for a
number of reasons but I still know how to do the work.

Your silly little rant makes you look bad and doesn't reflect well on
TV techs in general.


--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[none]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 14:36:22 +0200, maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl wrote:

Kim Sleep <ksleep@sympatico.ca> wrote:
I cannot believe that since this jackass cannot set his internal date, that
Im stuck with this stupid posting for another 3 months at the top of my
newsgroups

Get a better reader and learn how quoting works...

---
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.

Well ASSHOLE all you have to do is delete the message.
If we were face to face I doubt you'd be calling me names.
However if you've got anything that passes for a pair feel free to
e-mail me your address, I take insults VERY personally.
especially when they come from some asscrack computer dweeb.
(BTW my clock IS set to the correct time, if you'd read the posts
you'd have know that it's my isp that's having the problem.)

 

[Art]

Congrats! These can be a flippin pain.
<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1112833835.154972.319590@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

It's fixed, thanks man.

JURB

 

[kip]

Thermostat ???

<paulodonohoe@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112882594.735542.293100@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

I have a Hotpoint freezer rza30 model.
The high temperature led comes on when it's plugged in and it's not
freezing.
There is a 25 ohm resistor block accross the condensor motor which
measures 25 ohms so it looks ok. There is also a 4 mf ac capacitor
across the mains input into the freezer. The capacitor has 2 terminals
coming out of the housing so I disconnected it and measured the
capacitance accross it which always measures 0. I am assuming this has
gone faulty. There is not really a lot else that I can see that might
me faulty. Any suggestions and am I on the right track?

Kind regards

 

[sofie]

Paul:
If you are not a purist in your effort to "restore" this tube amp, INSTEAD
of replacing the multi-section electrolytics you can just use "single" axial
lead or radial electrolytics. As long as the multi-section is not shorted
or has excessive leakage you can just leave it in the circuit and connect
the new, single electrolytics to the multi-section electrolytics terminals
underneath the chassis, leaving the top of the chassis looking "original.".
The newer high voltage electrolytic caps will be much smaller than from
decades ago so the job will look quite good. As far as the signal caps are
concerned, I would not bother with them unless you have found degraded
performance or confirmed that the original signal caps are faulty or leaky.
The most important of the signal caps will be the coupling capacitors to the
grids of the power output tubes..... probably 0.1, 0.22, or 0.47 uf @ 400
or 600 V.
Then, of course you will want to test and/or replace the vacuum tubes....
again, the most important will be the expensive output tubes.... and of
course check the preamp tubes for performance and possible microphonics.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Paul" <satellite65nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:42555f70$0$3102$afc38c87@...

I have a Scott 299B tube amp which is in need of restoration. It is
complete and unmollested, but probably has not been powered-up for a
decade or two. I would like to replace the signal cap's with
audiophile grade polys to improve reliability and sound. I am also
concerned about the electrolytic cap's so I checked all of them in
circuit with an ESR meter. Out of the 5 multi-segment twist-lock cans,
3 have high ESR. One has 2 sections that are dead, and the other 2
have sections with high ESR (3-9 ohms). I am having trouble finding
replacement cans, and the ones I found are about $30 each. To me, this
thing is not worth $100 worth of 'lytics plus the cost of new poly's,
so I am looking for alternatives. Do I really need to replace the 3-9
ohm ESR parts? 3 of these are 100uF and filter the DC filament voltage
for the preamp tubes. Another is 10uF, measures 5 ohms, and filters
the bias voltage for the output tubes.

Does anyone know of a supplier who has a good selection of multi-cap
cans at lower prices?

The one that is dead is 20/450v, 20/450v, 25/25v, 25/25v, and is 1.4"
dia and 2" high.

The high ESR ones are 100-100-10/75v and are the same size.

Thanks,
Paul