Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[NSM]

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:d2gs41dakkkauohad6p5uttcbsv3dc5gg7@4ax.com...

The coax cable runs from the antenna to an antenna amplifier (about 20'
away) then out to the TV.

The best location for a masthead amp is on the mast. ;-)

How much do you lose in 20' though?

--
N

 

[Jerry G.]

I have not worked on your particular model, but can write in general. Put up
a standard colour bar test pattern, and look at the responce with a scope at
the chroma demodulator output. There is a chance that the demod section has
a fault. I have seen everything from bad caps to other types of components
cause this type of fault in a TV set.

--

Jerry G.
=====

<mikib@superior-cables.com> wrote in message
news:1112434162.208757.146670@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Dear friends,
I have 5yr old 25 inch. Pilot (GRUNDING) TV that the colors make the
screen to be very blur.
If I watch it without colors (B/W) the picture is sharp.

Any ideas what to check?

Thanks,
Miki

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

My Beckman 223 died suddenly the other day.

Wa-ah!

I tried to turn it on, nothing. Hmmm. Had a fresh battery, I thought. Opened
it up. Battery was fairly warm. Main processor IC, however, was almost hot
enough to burn my finger.

Darn shame - it was a good one for 15 years or so.

Limping along with a Radio Shack meter 'til I decide what to buy.


Mark Z.



<stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111907171.631952.169120@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I have 2 8060A meters, an 8050 and 8000. The 8060As are the work
horses. Very reliable and tough to break. Only problem with one after
15 years was the MAC chip (40 pin A/D and switching came partly
unplugged and died) Fluke no longer repairs these and no parts are
available. Got a broken one on eBay, which had a good MAC chip and all
is well. I've used Waveteks at work and they're OK but I want my Fluke.
GG

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1112531344.61de406341a159d8d06ab9d4edf0b9e3@teranews>,
Mark D. Zacharias <spammenot@yis.us> wrote:

My Beckman 223 died suddenly the other day.

Wa-ah!

I tried to turn it on, nothing. Hmmm. Had a fresh battery, I thought.
Opened it up. Battery was fairly warm. Main processor IC, however, was
almost hot enough to burn my finger.

Darn shame - it was a good one for 15 years or so.

Limping along with a Radio Shack meter 'til I decide what to buy.

I had a trusty old Maplin (chain similar to Radio Shack?) blow up when
measuring 240 volt AC. On opening it up, the cause was brass dust from the
slip rings bridging tracks. And since it was rarely used on high voltage
stuff it was ok until then.
All it took was a couple of transistors - which of course had house
markings only. Replaced them with a guess and re-calibrated it and it's
been ok for none critical stuff.

But treated myself to a Fluke 179 which is super. In the UK it costs
about 200 gbp. Bet it's half that in the US. ;-)

--
*Xerox and Wurlitzer will merge to market reproductive organs.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@yis.us> writes:

My Beckman 223 died suddenly the other day.

Wa-ah!

My Lafayette VOM is about 35 years old and still going strong. It has
a needle.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Art]

Here Goes: From the Service Manuel [less pictues].
1: Enter Serviceman Mode
2: Press 3 to display GREEN Raster
3: Press 0 [Zero] then SWAP to display test position adjustments
4: Press 5 to show pattern super imposed
5: Ch +-, Vol +- adjust cross hair to centre of pattern
6: Press 5 to exit superimposed pattern mode
7: Press TV/Video button to display data phase adjustment mode
8: Vol +- to make curve smooth and symmetrical {curve in cursor display}
9: Press 7 then SWAP to Store data
10: press 0 [Zero] to go back to Convergence Adjustment Mode
11: Pressing TV/Video Button changes from Point-Line-Easy2-Peri then repeats
12: In Point modes each cross hair location may be adjusted.
13: Press 7 and SWAP to Store Data
14: Press 3 twice to switch to RED Raster
15: Press TV/Video to switch to Line Mode
16: Adjust lines working from centre to outside edges
17: Press TV/Video and select Easy2 Mode
18: Adjust each piont using Ch +- and Vol +-
19: Press TV/Video again to select Point Mode
20: Adjust each point again
21: Press 7 and SWAP to Store Data
22: Press 3 twice toselect BLUE Raster
23: Repeat previous details.
24: When happy with registration press 7 and Swap to Store Data
25: Exit using POWER and SWAP buttons.

Hope this helps, otherwise e-mail me. Art

<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1112401542.586030.224380@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hi Folks;

Convergence ICs have been changed. They are working but now the R & B
vertical lines a are split away at the sides. Nothing else is affected.
Geometry is good. It's not off that much and is probably due to slight
differences in the HF response of the ICs.

I found out how to get into the service menu but I can't seem to find
the convergence. Can someone point me the way here ? I can get into the
rest of it, and I don't intend to touch anything there because without
a manual, I have no idea what's what. This thing ranks about dead last
in user friendliness IMO.

So if someone could tell me the following:

How do I get to the convergence ?, and is it cursor based ? If not,
what are the parameters for red and blue H width and linearity ? I'm
sure these are the only controls I need. It's off about ˝" at the
extreme sides. There is no other error on the screen. I read somewhere
that you use the mute to change from the move to adjust mode which
implies that it is cursor based. If it is cursor based, how do I switch
colors ? The rest I think I can handle.

Please don't tell me to get the manual, that's what I'm trying to
avoid. I don't want to wait for one and have a fixed unit in the shop,
the cost of the manual is not at issue.

Thanks in advance.

JURB

 

[Ray L. Volts]

<ZZactly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1112405696.601486.52750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Hi folks;

Again and again I see people posting here with various problems which
would send me straight to the scope probe. Does anyone use these things
anymore or what ? When you got immediate shutdown for example, what I
do is scope the HOT. Does anyone else do this ?

The main thing is, I see scopes just collect dust in shops until I get
there, sometimes. How many parts have been replaced needlessly ?

Mine collects dust just because it gets dusty so damn quick around here!
Seriously, dust off everything and 2 days later new film of dust is present.
Anyway, I use my Sencore SC61 on many repairs, not only for alignment
procedures, but, as you suggest, to prevent unnecessary part replacement
(easter egg hunting), which ultimately also saves time.

Perhaps alot of techs need a scope class or something ?

Agree with that. Lots of techs who do use scopes don't use them in such a
way as to get the most out of their measurements.

 

[Ken G.]

I got a Fluke 83 brand new . It has seen little use and sits in a drawer
in my desk & gets used a bit still & still looks like new .

the problem it has is .. when i turn it off it makes strange clicking
sounds till i move the switch on then back off . many times when i turn
it on it is on some wrong range , once again moving the switch one range
then back clears it up .
I have taken itapart & cleaned the switch and checked for loose solder
e.t.c. & never found the problem . I took it to or local Fluke dealer
repair center and they could not get it to act up .

 

[Lee Babcock]

Stefan Toftevall wrote:

Hi everyone,
My good old laserprinter suddenly refuse to print with the display
showing: "50-Needs service". Anyone know what is wrong?
I heard somebody say it has got an internal counter, and after a
certain amount of printouts, it display this message though it must
not be anything wrong. The counter needs reseting in some way.
Anyhow, any advice is appreciated,
Regards, Stefan
This code indicates a problem with the fuser. This model series is

famous for an underrated capacitor in the fuser circuit causing this
code. I'm not a tech, but I'm sure someone here will be able to help
you further on this.

BTW, a simple check on google gives:

http://www.all-laser.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/error50.html

Regards
Lee in Toronto

 

[Sarah]

Sounds like a motor assembly, pretty common, its deep inside the
machine = $$$.

get another printer at ebay.com if you want a cheap one.


On 3 Apr 2005 07:44:07 -0700, stefan.toftevall@bredband.net (Stefan
Toftevall) wrote:

Hi everyone,
My good old laserprinter suddenly refuse to print with the display
showing: "50-Needs service". Anyone know what is wrong?
I heard somebody say it has got an internal counter, and after a
certain amount of printouts, it display this message though it must
not be anything wrong. The counter needs reseting in some way.
Anyhow, any advice is appreciated,
Regards, Stefan

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <6woecweyum.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote:

My Lafayette VOM is about 35 years old and still going strong. It has
a needle.

But if a high impedance input, presumably a valve type so mains operated?

I love - and collect - old test gear, but the fact remains that you'll get
modern equivalents which fit in the hand, rather than the bay, which are
more accurate and work off a battery. ;-)

--
*How about "never"? Is "never" good for you?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[James Sweet]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4d55d077bddave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <1112531344.61de406341a159d8d06ab9d4edf0b9e3@teranews>,
Mark D. Zacharias <spammenot@yis.us> wrote:
My Beckman 223 died suddenly the other day.

Wa-ah!

I tried to turn it on, nothing. Hmmm. Had a fresh battery, I thought.
Opened it up. Battery was fairly warm. Main processor IC, however, was
almost hot enough to burn my finger.

Darn shame - it was a good one for 15 years or so.

Limping along with a Radio Shack meter 'til I decide what to buy.

I had a trusty old Maplin (chain similar to Radio Shack?) blow up when
measuring 240 volt AC. On opening it up, the cause was brass dust from the
slip rings bridging tracks. And since it was rarely used on high voltage
stuff it was ok until then.
All it took was a couple of transistors - which of course had house
markings only. Replaced them with a guess and re-calibrated it and it's
been ok for none critical stuff.

But treated myself to a Fluke 179 which is super. In the UK it costs
about 200 gbp. Bet it's half that in the US. ;-)

I just checked, they're available over here for about $200, so yeah, almost
exactly half. I would guess one could be ordered from a US supplier? I know
a number of those places will ship overseas and I imagine you'd still come
out ahead even with shipping.

 

[James Sweet]

"Stefan Toftevall" <stefan.toftevall@bredband.net> wrote in message
news:c4f805eb.0504030644.5cc36e3a@posting.google.com...

Hi everyone,
My good old laserprinter suddenly refuse to print with the display
showing: "50-Needs service". Anyone know what is wrong?
I heard somebody say it has got an internal counter, and after a
certain amount of printouts, it display this message though it must
not be anything wrong. The counter needs reseting in some way.
Anyhow, any advice is appreciated,
Regards, Stefan

50 is a fuser error, there can be several causes but 99% of the time it's a
small usually green electrolytic capacitor on the board that controls the
fuser lamp (it's near the power supply). If you get that board out and look,
you may even find that the cap is leaking or bulging. Replace it, reassemble
and you should be good to go. Those are very good printers.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> writes:

In article <6woecweyum.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote:
My Lafayette VOM is about 35 years old and still going strong. It has
a needle.

But if a high impedance input, presumably a valve type so mains operated?

No, 30,000 ohms/V, no active components, ohms use a battery.

I love - and collect - old test gear, but the fact remains that you'll get
modern equivalents which fit in the hand, rather than the bay, which are
more accurate and work off a battery. ;-)

The Lafayette get's used daily; my Fluke 89 usually stays in the closet.
For a lot of things, accuracy isn't the main criteria.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6woecweyum.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...

"Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@yis.us> writes:

My Beckman 223 died suddenly the other day.

Wa-ah!

My Lafayette VOM is about 35 years old and still going strong. It has
a needle.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror:

I have an Eico I built in tech school which has a large analog meter.
20kOhms per volt. Measures a bit too high on DC voltages. Always have to
switch leads around to measure different polarity voltages. Have to
interpret readings of several dial scales, etc. Too lazy for this anymore.
Just give me a good digital!


Mark Z.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <6wy8bzwosk.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote:

My Lafayette VOM is about 35 years old and still going strong. It
has a needle.

But if a high impedance input, presumably a valve type so mains
operated?

No, 30,000 ohms/V, no active components, ohms use a battery.

That's good for an analogue meter. The UK equivalent would be the good ol'
AVO Model 8 which only manages 20k ohms/volt on DC, but also lasts forever.

I love - and collect - old test gear, but the fact remains that you'll
get modern equivalents which fit in the hand, rather than the bay,
which are more accurate and work off a battery. ;-)

The Lafayette get's used daily; my Fluke 89 usually stays in the closet.
For a lot of things, accuracy isn't the main criteria.

Indeed, a low input impedance meter has a lot going for it in many day to
day measurements. And of course a swinging meter needle can often tell
more than a digital readout. And is very difficult to blow into the middle
of next week. ;-)

--
*If horrific means to make horrible, does terrific mean to make terrible?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> writes:

In article <6wy8bzwosk.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote:
My Lafayette VOM is about 35 years old and still going strong. It
has a needle.

But if a high impedance input, presumably a valve type so mains
operated?

No, 30,000 ohms/V, no active components, ohms use a battery.

That's good for an analogue meter. The UK equivalent would be the good ol'
AVO Model 8 which only manages 20k ohms/volt on DC, but also lasts forever.

I love - and collect - old test gear, but the fact remains that you'll
get modern equivalents which fit in the hand, rather than the bay,
which are more accurate and work off a battery. ;-)

The Lafayette get's used daily; my Fluke 89 usually stays in the closet.
For a lot of things, accuracy isn't the main criteria.

Indeed, a low input impedance meter has a lot going for it in many day to
day measurements. And of course a swinging meter needle can often tell
more than a digital readout. And is very difficult to blow into the middle
of next week. ;-)

This Lafayette appears to be very well protected. I've done numerous
stupid things with it and the only casualties have been a couple blown
resistors and a blown trace on the switch PCB. The meter itself was
never affected.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Leon Heller]

"Keith Williams" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
news:MPG.1cb60639f8c862e98999a@news.individual.net...

In article <1112291657.595936.40770@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
genenamg@yahoo.com says...
How do I check if a transistor is working using a multimeter - both
BJTs and FETs? How will I know if it's shorted etc? Also, for a BJT
how will I know the emitter, base and collector by using a multimeter?

BJTs are easy: A BJT will look like two diodes (Base-Emitter and Base -
collector). Find the common lead. That's your base. If the
transistor conducts ('+' to '-') from the base to the other two, it's
an NPN. If it conducts the other way it's a PNP. If it conducts both
ways or neither, pitch it. Telling the difference between the emitter
and collector is a tad harder. If your multimeter has a "transistor
tester" the direction with the largest beta is correct.

The (forward-biased) resistance of the base-collector junction is usually
lower than that for the base-emitter junction. The difference is quite
small, though.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

 

[JANA]

I remember the 20TS20, from around the same time frame, having the hue,
color, brightness, and speaker controls being on pots that were located
under the front door panel located just below the CRT display. I cannot
remember exactly for the 20TS27, but I would assumed it to be about the
same...

In your set, I am sort of sure that there should be a channel blocking,
clock settings, MTS/Stereo/SAP, and timer options menu. For access to these,
you will definetly need the origional remote, or one that is absolutely
compatible to it.

In this model, I don't think there is any service, or advanced user setup
menu, as such like that you would have with the newer V, or FV, or S, or FS
series of sets. These sets came out later on.


--

JANA
_____


<dwills@joimail.com> wrote in message
news:1112508441.155105.182570@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

This is a 1991 KV-20TS27 no orig remote and with the RM-Y116 I can
adjust the HUE and with RM-727 the Picture Brightness. what remote do
I need to get to the menu, etc? Thanks for any help.

 

[none]

On 3 Apr 2005 14:29:18 -0700, "VCR Gymnast" <alan.segal@uvm.edu>
wrote:

Hi All,

I have an interesting situation: two AG-5700 VCRs with the identical
problem--the tape will not get threaded. The cassette gets ejected a
second or two after it gets seated. I think this is a timing problem,
possibly because the gearing is off by a tooth or two.

I know that the cassette basket needs to be "spring-loaded" and I have
adjusted it several times. Although it looks right, the problem
persists. I have seen the markings on the gear that interacts with the
mode switch, but I must still be doing something wrong in getting the
proper alignment to get the timing right.

Here is my question: is there something I can try before sending these
out for service? If so, I sure would appreciate your suggestions.

If I recall these models were slave decks for the AG editing system
and for industrial playback etc...( I had the AG 1950 and 1960's in my
video service back in the late 80's and I'm thinking that I had the
5700's as slaves for them.)
If you want to use these for any serious/heavy use you'd do better to
have a Panasonic industrial repair shop have a go at them.( I DO NOT
recommend taking them to a regular consumer repair facility unless you
know for sure that the tech's there are able to work on
broadcast/industrial equipment.)
You might try asking over at rec.video.production first. Someone
there might be able to help you out.(Many of us on that group still
have some of the high end 1/2 inch stuff and service them ourselves.
I'd tossed my books on most of the Panasonic stuff I had. Just have a
repair manual for the AG7400's that I still use from time to time.)