PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

"two bob" <tb@department9.com.au> wrote in message
news:43c63a58_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Get real. At the moment howard has a perfect opportunity to do as he
pleases, he has absolutely no opposition. As long as labour sits back
and
does nothing to give them the title "opposition" howard is bullet proof.
We need to have a labour party that can give us something to vote for or
else howard has got almost a dictatorship. Unfortunately, the Australian
public have a short memory and a total lack of backbone to stand up to
the
thugs in Canberra. We should look to other countries and see what the
public there does when the govnmt tries to shit on them.



It's you who is unrealistic in being so cynical as to think that we have
a
government who is laughing at the Australian public, and a public too
stupid to vote a bad government out of office. We got rid of Hawke and
Keating didn't we. Admittedly it took a while for that to happen. I
guess
that the voting public is a bit slow to react. But not always. Kennett
got
a hell of a shock, didn't he.

A good example of short memory is that keating lost power due to the fact
he
wanted to introduce gst. Howard introduced it in his second term even
though
he didnt get a majority vote.
Click to expand...

I remember it differently. John Hewson (remember him?) lost an election
because he wanted to bring in the GST. Then the lying arse Howard promised
that the GST was a dead issue.......
 
On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 16:56:20 +1100, "Mr.T" <MrT@home> wrote:

"artie morty" <artiemorty@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
news:u67cs1hpae16htn6ukvf0gtqfqkhi4bqbp@4ax.com...
But Mr Packers organisation employed many thousands of people and
created endless amounts of wealth for others, who all paid tax to the
general coffers.

So in a sense, if you follow the chain - Mr Packer generated a huge
amount of tax revenue, jobs etc, that the government takes credit for
in a GDT in the black.

So if you look at what businessmen like Mr Packer have generated for
the country, they are an integral part of the economy, and even though
they do minimise their own tax, probably deserve a lot more thanks
than they actually get.

Interesting argument, which fails to realise that private corporations are
in the business of *minimizing* their employees as well.
Take Telstra for example, there are now 30,000 LESS employees paying tax
than a few years ago. However the annual profit is about the same. Who has
benefited (other than the CEO's!), certainly not the shareholders, or the
taxpayers, or the ex-employees. And the *rate of reduction* in prices due to
improving technology is now LESS than it once was. The continued excessive
charges for mobile phone calls despite rapidly reducing costs are a good
example of this.

Another example would be the Banks (including the Commonwealth) They are
*NOT* in the business of creating jobs and taxpayers, but destroying them!
(at least the shareholders have gained something in that case, even if the
poor customers haven't)

To make it more relevant, compare the ABC with channel nine. Which one
actually trains staff and creates new jobs, even on a miniscule budget by
comparison.

IMO the world would be far better off without the Packers and Murdoch's.

MrT.
Click to expand...
I think that is far too simplistic a response.

Telstra is being minimised by the government prior to a share float.

The banks have to compete on a global scale with deregulation - they
either maximise profit on fail.

If you want to blame someone - blame government policy that leaves no
protection for the simple man in the steet, and allows big business
like the banks to exploit him with little or no moral consequence.

But don't blame the Kerry Packer types just because they are
successful.

Think of what it would be like without financial innovators like him -
do you really think we would be better off?

I do however agree with you on Murdock - what a financial and
capitalistic sleeze bag.

Cheers
Artie
 
"Kevin Ettery" <kpettery@dcsi.net.au> wrote in message
news:43c8345d@news.comindico.com.au...
Trev,

Could be a good idea to let people know where the benches are currently
located (I presume Hurstville) - believe it or not Australia actually does
extend beyond the city limits of Sydney :)
Click to expand...
**Indeed. That was a serious omission. Of course, the benches are located in
Hurstville, in the Southern area of Sydney.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
I have no ideas what factory actually makes them, but it is same place that
makes AWA, TELEFUNKEN, AKAI and DIGITOR. At leaset they look very similar
inside.

And it is not brand name, so if unit does fail after warranty, you will have
problems servicing it.

Rudolf

"David" <david@david.com> wrote in message
news:uN7sf.114290$V7.52526@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Hi All,

I was considering purchasing one of the above TV's as a second unit for
the
house. Dick Smith has them for $348 at the moment. Does anyone know who
makes them for Dick Smith?

I know that Telefix repairs them, but that's about all the info I know.

Cheers
Click to expand...
 
OK,

We moved to a new house and there is a pathway behind the house. Pathway is
about 1.5m wide. It ends at the door that leads to frontyard and cat gets
there through the door as it is not solid.
1. I do not want to make door soild. It is made out of metal rods and looks
quite nice.
2. Somehow our cat does not like climbing, so I am not concerned of it
climbing the fence and escaping this way.

So, the idea is to install some detector on the pathway near the door and
scare the cat away. I thought about IR detector, but this pathway i used by
us and our gardener and I do not want the device to trip on humans.

I though about using RFID tags, but then remembered our cat already has one
implanted. If I can not use this one, I will have to put one on the collar.
Any pointers to cheap reader and tags? I only need couple of tags and a
single reader and do not want pay big $$$. RFID kits from TI are few hundred
dollars.

Thanks,
Rudolf

"mark jb" <nukeleer at internode dot on dot net> wrote in message
news:43c78f06$1@duster.adelaide.on.net...
My cat is being tagged with one of those RFID chips. Now I want to read
the information.
Cat gets into places where I do not want it to go and I want to set up a
detector there that will scare it away. Ue of IR detection will not work
as people get there too. So, since cat is already tagged, I'd like to use
it.
I am after a detector that will read the ID from a distance of a bout
1-1.5m. Reader does not have to be self-contained. I will have to
interface it to a micro anyway to implent the "scaring" part.

as already said... forget it.
detection range is around 5cm...
perhaps you could expand your idea slightly, and use an RFID tag on the
cat's collar.

eg: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZZ8950 keyfob style
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZZ8954 21mm round, easily
superglued to collar or back of current nametag.

range is likely to be less than you want however; the card readers tend to
have very short detection distances for security reasons...
-mark
Click to expand...
 
If you used two IR beams/detectors - one high (3ft) and one low (6"), and
connected their output to an AND gate, it would trip on the cat, but not humans

Might be the cheap and easy way

David

Rudolf Ladyzhenskii wrote:

OK,

We moved to a new house and there is a pathway behind the house. Pathway is
about 1.5m wide. It ends at the door that leads to frontyard and cat gets
there through the door as it is not solid.
1. I do not want to make door soild. It is made out of metal rods and looks
quite nice.
2. Somehow our cat does not like climbing, so I am not concerned of it
climbing the fence and escaping this way.

So, the idea is to install some detector on the pathway near the door and
scare the cat away. I thought about IR detector, but this pathway i used by
us and our gardener and I do not want the device to trip on humans.

I though about using RFID tags, but then remembered our cat already has one
implanted. If I can not use this one, I will have to put one on the collar.
Any pointers to cheap reader and tags? I only need couple of tags and a
single reader and do not want pay big $$$. RFID kits from TI are few hundred
dollars.

Thanks,
Rudolf

"mark jb" <nukeleer at internode dot on dot net> wrote in message
news:43c78f06$1@duster.adelaide.on.net...
My cat is being tagged with one of those RFID chips. Now I want to read
the information.
Cat gets into places where I do not want it to go and I want to set up a
detector there that will scare it away. Ue of IR detection will not work
as people get there too. So, since cat is already tagged, I'd like to use
it.
I am after a detector that will read the ID from a distance of a bout
1-1.5m. Reader does not have to be self-contained. I will have to
interface it to a micro anyway to implent the "scaring" part.

as already said... forget it.
detection range is around 5cm...
perhaps you could expand your idea slightly, and use an RFID tag on the
cat's collar.

eg: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZZ8950 keyfob style
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZZ8954 21mm round, easily
superglued to collar or back of current nametag.

range is likely to be less than you want however; the card readers tend to
have very short detection distances for security reasons...
-mark
Click to expand...
 
Note a Kluger is a Toyota Highlander in North America (also
available as a hybrid electric vehicle) and parts of Europe
although to add to the confusion 4Runner Surfs are also know as
Highlanders in some markets outside Japan. In any event hard
copy manuals appear to be available but as I expected they are
not cheap. In two volumes See
http://www.books4cars.com/result1~findmake~Toyota~imageField.x~122~imageField.y~51~offset~-1.htm

2004 Highlander Shop Service Repair Manual Vol 2 by Toyota
(B04_RM1086_U2)
US$139.95

2004 Highlander shop service repair manual #1 by Toyota
(B04_RM1086U1)
US $149.95




I would confirm they are Kluger not 4Runner Surf manuals before
buying them.
--
Regards
Blue

Remove Z from email address to reply directly.
 
"aussieblu" <zaussiblu@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:MT7yf.216083$V7.114570@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Actually why do you need a manual? It should be easy to source
a safe +12V source of something like the glovebox light, earth
at the chassis anywhere convenient and locate the sound system
wiring without the need for a wiring schematic.

--
Regards
Blue

Remove Z from email address to reply directly.
Click to expand...
Do you mean that it is a bit like:
" I need to change a light bulb, does anyone have a schematic of a power
station?"
or
"I would like to spend three times the amount of the installation cost of a
car kit just for the self-satisfaction of doing it myself"
 
Perhaps but maybe there is something unique about Klugers we
don't know about.

--
Regards
Blue

Remove Z from email address to reply directly.
 
The Real Andy wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2005 06:56:46 +1100, "Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com
wrote:

McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
The Real Andy <will_get_back_to_you_on_This@> wrote

Its not the wood thats doing the conducting.

Yes it is.

You'll find it was the water that was
the conductor, not simply the wood.

Wrong with dry wood.

Dry wood is an insulator - not a conductor.

Depends entirely on the level of voltage
applied, just like with any insulator.

Well in the context of grounding a laptop,

The thread had diverged from that.

wood is useless and would act as an insulator.
In the context of the 'bandstand' incident,
water was the conductor - NOT wood.

In both instatnces wood was/is not a conductor.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

For the purpose of earthing - which is where this started,

Irrelevant to where it diverged to.

Somehow we diverged to the Geelong incident. The lightning
was conducted by water from the thunderstorm - not the wood.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

wood has NO conducive conductive abilities.

Pity about the situation that it diverged to.

Which was the situation where water was the
main conductive substance - NOT the wood.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

You said wood was doing the conducting - it wasn't.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

Sorry mate, but that 'general question' was never part of the thread.

Wrong, as always. It became part of the thread when you
made a spectacular fool of yourself when you claimed that
it wasnt the wood that conducted. Sometimes it is indeed.

It's simple. In this context of this thread, wood is NOT a conductor.

Wrong, as always. Just like with ANY conductor, its ALWAYS
possible to exceed the breakdown voltage and get it to conduct.
Most obviously when the wood isnt that thick and you have the
lightning hitting metal on the weather side, and then the wood
CAN break down even when it isnt wet.


The only time this can happen is when there is no possible way for the
lightning to find ground. What happens in this situation is that it
usually 'punches' or burns a hole in the material. Once again, the
material itself is not doing the conducting.

Lightning still follows the path of least resistance, and considering
that air breaks down at a much lower voltage than timber, the air will
always win.
Click to expand...
Not quite right. Lightning is usually completely random. The force and
time levsl involved do not permit a "cool" appraisal of "the least
resistance".
 
Phil Allison wrote:

"Rod Out Back"

Not really on topic, but there's a bit of lack of such places to ask...

Has anyone ever seen christmas-tree lights that operate on 12 or 24v DC
for sale in Australia? All I have seen are either 240v AC or 24v AC.
Havent seen any DC units. I must ahve looked at about 15 different brands
so far, but nothing operating in DC.

** Hey man - have I got news for YOU !!!

Electric light bulbs work on DC and on AC !!!!!!!!!!!

Way cool - eh ??????

.......... Phil
Click to expand...
But transformers don't, Phil. If he can get lights without transformers he's
OK
 
I note no-one so far has said words to the effect: don't meddle with wiring
unless you are a licenced electrician, not only for your sake but for future
residents. But, one wonders, would a licenced electrcian necessarily have
found this one?
 
This is an idea.

Anyway, thanks for replies.
Will play with it.

Rudolf

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:43C8D4A8.6A213E57@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
If you used two IR beams/detectors - one high (3ft) and one low (6"), and
connected their output to an AND gate, it would trip on the cat, but not
humans

Might be the cheap and easy way

David

Rudolf Ladyzhenskii wrote:

OK,

We moved to a new house and there is a pathway behind the house. Pathway
is
about 1.5m wide. It ends at the door that leads to frontyard and cat gets
there through the door as it is not solid.
1. I do not want to make door soild. It is made out of metal rods and
looks
quite nice.
2. Somehow our cat does not like climbing, so I am not concerned of it
climbing the fence and escaping this way.

So, the idea is to install some detector on the pathway near the door and
scare the cat away. I thought about IR detector, but this pathway i used
by
us and our gardener and I do not want the device to trip on humans.

I though about using RFID tags, but then remembered our cat already has
one
implanted. If I can not use this one, I will have to put one on the
collar.
Any pointers to cheap reader and tags? I only need couple of tags and a
single reader and do not want pay big $$$. RFID kits from TI are few
hundred
dollars.

Thanks,
Rudolf

"mark jb" <nukeleer at internode dot on dot net> wrote in message
news:43c78f06$1@duster.adelaide.on.net...
My cat is being tagged with one of those RFID chips. Now I want to
read
the information.
Cat gets into places where I do not want it to go and I want to set up
a
detector there that will scare it away. Ue of IR detection will not
work
as people get there too. So, since cat is already tagged, I'd like to
use
it.
I am after a detector that will read the ID from a distance of a bout
1-1.5m. Reader does not have to be self-contained. I will have to
interface it to a micro anyway to implent the "scaring" part.

as already said... forget it.
detection range is around 5cm...
perhaps you could expand your idea slightly, and use an RFID tag on the
cat's collar.

eg: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZZ8950 keyfob style
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZZ8954 21mm round, easily
superglued to collar or back of current nametag.

range is likely to be less than you want however; the card readers tend
to
have very short detection distances for security reasons...
-mark
Click to expand...
 
"The Real Andy" <will_get_back_to_you_on_This@> wrote in message
news:hu8ks1t2ici4ktk7rl8mpus4pvjlvkos7v@4ax.com...
On Sun, 15 Jan 2006 17:44:58 +1100, , nospam@ever.com.au wrote:

The Real Andy wrote:

On Sat, 26 Nov 2005 06:56:46 +1100, "Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com
wrote:

McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
McGrath <no@email> wrote
Rod Speed <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote
The Real Andy <will_get_back_to_you_on_This@> wrote

Its not the wood thats doing the conducting.

Yes it is.

You'll find it was the water that was
the conductor, not simply the wood.

Wrong with dry wood.

Dry wood is an insulator - not a conductor.

Depends entirely on the level of voltage
applied, just like with any insulator.

Well in the context of grounding a laptop,

The thread had diverged from that.

wood is useless and would act as an insulator.
In the context of the 'bandstand' incident,
water was the conductor - NOT wood.

In both instatnces wood was/is not a conductor.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

For the purpose of earthing - which is where this started,

Irrelevant to where it diverged to.

Somehow we diverged to the Geelong incident. The lightning
was conducted by water from the thunderstorm - not the wood.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

wood has NO conducive conductive abilities.

Pity about the situation that it diverged to.

Which was the situation where water was the
main conductive substance - NOT the wood.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

You said wood was doing the conducting - it wasn't.

Irrelevant to the general question about whether
wood, like any insulator CAN BE a conductor.

Sorry mate, but that 'general question' was never part of the
thread.

Wrong, as always. It became part of the thread when you
made a spectacular fool of yourself when you claimed that
it wasnt the wood that conducted. Sometimes it is indeed.

It's simple. In this context of this thread, wood is NOT a
conductor.

Wrong, as always. Just like with ANY conductor, its ALWAYS
possible to exceed the breakdown voltage and get it to conduct.
Most obviously when the wood isnt that thick and you have the
lightning hitting metal on the weather side, and then the wood
CAN break down even when it isnt wet.


The only time this can happen is when there is no possible way for the
lightning to find ground. What happens in this situation is that it
usually 'punches' or burns a hole in the material. Once again, the
material itself is not doing the conducting.

Lightning still follows the path of least resistance, and considering
that air breaks down at a much lower voltage than timber, the air will
always win.

Not quite right. Lightning is usually completely random. The force
and
time levsl involved do not permit a "cool" appraisal of "the least
resistance".

So are you suggesting that lightning rods do not work?

That comment will be a lightning rod for further comment.....
Click to expand...

Ken
 
In article <43c8284d$1_9@news.peopletelecom.com.au>,
maildump@isite.net.au says...
I've now cat5'd my house, put good speaker cable around and decided
against running shielded (I'll use the network)

However, while I don't have a projector today, I'd still like to run
cable through the wall.

I figure I need to run a VGA cable, but is there a limit to their length?

I'd like full resolution so want to avoid component video or s-video,
though I think I'll run both of them anyway.

Anyone have a sensible answer to the max-length of VGA cable (and where
it can be purchased by the metre?)

Cheers!
Rick Measham

I brought a VGA extension lead off the net, it was 20m long and very
Click to expand...
good quality, but cost over $70 i think, the web site had them up to
about 50m long but the price got horrendous. sorry can't find the site
anymore as it was a while ago.
 
It is mainly to safely find MUTE signal at radio.
Click to expand...
Buy a $3 trouble light from tricky dickies. Probe all pins in the back of
the radio, when you hit the mute connection the radio will mute, if it has a
standatd Toyota radio it is the empty connector next to the white wire on
the small plug. That will be $132 please!
 
It does not have one unfortunately. Hoewer it may have a connector brought
out for one. (Later Commodores do).
Wiring diagram is needed to find it.
Click to expand...
Sorry to burst your bubble, but Toyota dont supply any sort of connector on
any of their cars. Dont waist your money on a manual just for that purpose.
 
Rudolf, several different radios are available for this model.If it is the
standard one, radio mute can be obtained from the connector for the
stacker on the back of the head unit.
If looking at back of head unit and at stacker connector(which should not
have a plug in it) it will the second connector on the left top row,
Click to expand...
Forget the stacker, use the empty connector on the smaller plug (next to
white wire), next to the power/speaker plug. (as per my earlier post)
 
so that you know, (incase you had a problem with picking up on it) I
mentioned what happened as a way of letting people know that problems do
exist and that they shouldnt take things at face value....

But i guess you missed that bit.
 
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