PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[T.T.]

"Unlucky" <pipsqueak@netspace.net.au> wrote in message
news:dp1k0v$14t3$1@otis.netspace.net.au...

T.T. wrote:
"Unlucky" <pipsqueak@netspace.net.au> wrote in message
news:dovoei$gps$1@otis.netspace.net.au...

Ken Taylor wrote:

Unlucky wrote:


Ken Taylor wrote:


"Unlucky" <pipsqueak@netspace.net.au> wrote in message
news:dor2hl$1ku0$1@otis.netspace.net.au...


I had a Centrx 51cm television its picture tube blew under one year,
so
they replaced it with a brand new one. Great, but now have just
realised
that it hasn't got an headphone jack socket at the front like the old
one. Went to The Goode Guys and they said no Centrex tv's had
headphone
sockets, this puzzled me so I checked the original book and it has a
picture of the socket. Can anyone shed anymore light on this am I
just
seeing things and going senile or what.




Do you actually use the headphone socket? If so, maybe you could look
at one
of the wireless sender units, which would be more portable for you
anyway.

I like their methodology though - when faced with the facts, ignore
them,
deny them, question you....

Cheers.

Ken



Yes we do use the headphone socket, as a member of the family is quite
deaf and needs them so as not to have the tv blaring at all hours of
the day and night.


There are products for the hearing-impaired which do exactly this
function, using either the headphone socket or AV outputs (audio only,
of course!) to send tot he listener via FM radio, with a nice little
receiver and headphones for them to wear. Much more convenient than a
trailing lead. My MIL uses one and is quite happy with it (she's made a
habit lately of pretending to be listening to a conversation while
actually listening to one of the music stations off the Sky box!).

Cheers.

Ken

thanks for that Ken I'll look around maybe Dick Smiths or an electronic
shop might be able to help.


For what it's worth, we have two Sony units that plug into the audio
output of the TV and broadcast via Infra red to the headphones, which use
one AA battery.
They are excellent.
The Product Number is TMR IF 130
They cost about $85 from our local country Retravision.
The headphones have their own volume control.
Thanks T.T. that sounds like the perfect solution if I can get enough
output sockets available. We have got a dvd, video, and Austar all
running from it.
I will try our local retravision
I think the devices you mention all use input sockets.

 

[Michael C]

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@free.net.nospam.nz> wrote in message
news:5055.43b46264.bb6ea@clunker.homenet...

another way would be a 4.7V zener diode from the input to ground (assuming
5V VCC) and a 100K resistor to the 12V signal - any voltage that resistor
can witstand isn't going to harm the input.

thses schemes will see anything less than about 2V as "off", if the signal
if you need the threshold nearer 6v a zener in series with the resistor
could help.

what are you using for your VCC supply?

VCC is 5V from the standard 7805.

Michael

 

[Professor]

www.telstar-electronics.com

 

[matt2-amstereo]

small piece of MDF and some zip ties?


otherwise, you could take the cover off, find there a screw can go thru
safely and do that.

 

[Acme]

matt2-amstereo wrote:

small piece of MDF and some zip ties?


otherwise, you could take the cover off, find there a screw can go thru
safely and do that.

Thanks for trying.

 

[Jordan]

The Telstar unit won't work on 6 Volt systems.

I've given up trying to get the 555 circuit to be stable, having tried
most of the suggestions for filtering. It seems that the RFI from the
magneto is just to strong.
So, I'm using a standard 6V blinker can and load resistors in parallel
with the LEDs - not the favoured solution but it works OK for now.

Heaps of thanks to all for trying to help.

Jordan

Professor wrote:

www.telstar-electronics.com

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2006-01-01, Alan Rutlidge <don't_spam_me_rutlidge@iinet.net.au> wrote:

Rapidly charges high capacity AA and AAA cells (NiCd and NiMH in less
than 1 hour). Actual charging base is approx 12.5cm tall x 68cm wide and
2.5cm thick. Has a flat back so it can easily be mounted on any smooth
surface with double sided tape. AC wall plugpack is a switchmode type,
light weight about 9cm high x 5cm wide x 4cm thick when plugged into wall
outlet.

Hmmm, he could use mounting tape (or RTV silicone, etc) to stick the battery
box to the back of the plugpack

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Michael C]

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@free.net.nospam.nz> wrote in message
news:1025.43b4deb7.c8828@clunker.homenet...

do you know what a "load dump" is?

Not really but I'm guessing it's when a device puts power back into the
system for some reason?

it seems automotive electrics can be exttremely hostile... surges of upto
200V

This I'm aware of which is why I asked the original question

Michael

 

[Michael C]

"Anon" <anon@anon.com> wrote in message news:1136094039.626284@teuthos...

On page 57 of January silicon chip magazine, an ad by Jaycar for a smart
card programmer seems to imply that hacking of smart cards for extra
channels is possible?
Does any one know if this is the case, or is it just Jaycar trying to flog
these programmers?

From what I understand it is no longer possible. The boxes get a new code
from the provider every few minutes so you need some method to get that code
every few minutes. Boxes are available that do it but they have to connect
to your PC and your PC has to be always on and connected to the internet.

Michael

 

[Michael C]

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@free.net.nospam.nz> wrote in message
news:50c1.43b843af.cf043@clunker.homenet...

your 7805 won't like 200V very much.
is there other protection before it?

That bit I haven't done yet but was thinking of just using a few ohm
resistor with a big cap. Sound ok?

Michael

 

[Michael C]

"Simone Merrett" <smallthorns@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:43b8dd32$0$2273$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...

3) Using a simple I2C A/D chip is too hard? (www.maxim-ic.com have lots of
types of these)

I ordered an I2C ADC a couple of weeks ago, received it yesterday and
soldered it into my prototype tonight. The code I'd written for the eeprom
worked with it straight off. Now I've just go to work out how to convert a
resistance that varies from 40ohm to 1k into a voltage from 0 to 2.5 and
keep enough accuracy at the 40 ohm end of the scale.

Some other stuff you might not have thought of...
- Noise... (I believe this is a car application) Cars are very
electrically
noisy. You are likely to get voltage spikes that affect the state of your
digital input. (Unless you do some serious sheilding)

I'll see how I go with noise, if it's a problem I'll see what I can do. I'm
already doing averaging over multiple reading so this might be enough.

- Chip temp.: The voltage a digital input switches at will depend on the
temp of the actual input circuit.

I plan to have the circuit inside the cabin as it's not water proof and has
an overtemp buzzer.

Michael

 

[Professor]

The Telstar unit will operate the flashing easily down at 6V... but the
audio feedback may or may not function.

Professor
www.telstar-electronics.com

 

[pedro]

Mr.T wrote:

"pedro" <pedro@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:7L4sf.113042$V7.39940@news-server.bigpond.net.au...


two bob wrote:


Well I don't know your circumstances, but you need to consider two
things at least. Firstly.. what your situation would be if Labor had
remained in power. And secondly.. It's a global market and workplace
these days. We need to compete with Asian countries where there is


dirt


cheap labour. We can't keep on trying to maintain a standard of living
that we can't support. Something has to give. Howard is trying to


ensure


that it's not jobs that go. He aint perfect, and he aint doing
everything right, but he has the best interests of Australia and
Australians at heart.




Yes, but only *rich* Australians. (particularly Liberal campaign
contributers)
Those at the bottom of the pile can go die in the gutter it seems whilst
working for nothing.

This idea that Howard is deliberately and maliciously screwing the
'little people' is a nonsense. Why would he do, or even want to do, such
a thing? What would he hope to gain by it. How could it benefit him, the
Libs, or the country as a whole.

Consumers don't purchase Australian made products now, what few there
are of them. Ninety percent or so of purchasers buy on price alone.



Of course, those not at the mega dollar salary end of the job market have no
option.


The
aim of reducing the cost of production of Aussie products, is to make
them more competitive with imports.



No, we would still import manufactured goods from larger volume producers
like China, even if local wages were zero!
(only for the navvies of course, the CEO's would still get multi mega buck
salaries, as would politicians)

MrT.

So the purpose, reason for, and objective of the IR legislation is what
exactly.


--
rgds,

Pete
-----
http://pedro.spyw.com
The time here is- http://tinyurl.com/6sfgd
'Dawn: Natures way of telling you to go to bed'

 

[pedro]

mark_newton wrote:

pedro wrote:

This idea that Howard is deliberately and maliciously screwing the
'little people' is a nonsense. Why would he do, or even want to do,
such a thing? What would he hope to gain by it. How could it benefit
him, the Libs, or the country as a whole.

You're joking, yeah?

Lower wages > greater profits > corporate gratitude > more donations to
the Liberal Party...

Wake up to yourself.

You honestly think he is that self-serving and contemptuous of the
Australian public? And it wouldn't matter how much was donated to the
Libs if the public gets pissed off and votes him out of office. So that
strategy would backfire bigtime!


--
rgds,

Pete
-----
http://pedro.spyw.com
The time here is- http://tinyurl.com/6sfgd
'Plan like you'll live forever. Live like there's not tomorrow'

 

[mark_newton]

pedro wrote:

This idea that Howard is deliberately and maliciously screwing
the 'little people' is a nonsense. Why would he do, or even want
to do, such a thing? What would he hope to gain by it. How could
it benefit him, the Libs, or the country as a whole.

You're joking, yeah?

Lower wages > greater profits > corporate gratitude > more
donations to the Liberal Party...

Wake up to yourself.

You honestly think he is that self-serving and contemptuous of the
Australian public?

Yes. There isn't a pollie who isn't.

And it wouldn't matter how much was donated to the Libs if the public
gets pissed off and votes him out of office.

Big if. If the majority of voters think* as you do...

* I use that term loosely.

 

[Professor]

How do I come to know this. I'm the designer...

Professor
www.telstar-electronics.com

 

[Chris Jones]

Rob Stirling wrote:

David L. Jones wrote:

Cool.
You'd think they'd be able to make the transmitter smaller though,
keyfob size.

The electronics is small enough, I had a look inside the case. It's
designed to be stuck to a wall. If you hardwired the frequency
selecting dials you could shrink it quite a bit.

Definitely easier than running cable in some walls!

Much!

Are the remote buttons rugged enough to last with daily use?

I think they will last, the switches are similar to what's used in a
mouse button so they should outlast the other wiring in the house! I
don't know what battery consumption is like, the battery is a tiny 12V
cell smaller than a AAA.

Chris, I don't know what the power consumption of the receiver is like,
I guess it may be written on the original packaging. Most of what is
inside the case would be a ACDC transformer, it doesn't seem to get hot
like a downlight transformer so I hope its not as much. (I found out
too late about how much power DC downlights use... I fell for the
salesperson's "240V downlights are a horrible yellow colour" pitch.
Now I have about 200W of lighting in my kitchen to get the same
brightness as a 60W incandescent... or a 14W Philips energy saver! :-(
)

Good idea of getting a spare receiver, though I'm not really lightning
prone. I could have left the original switch on the wall, but that
would have been non-optimal .

Cheers
R

About the low voltage halogens, the 12V halogen bulbs themselves are
actually more efficient than 240V halogen bulbs, but as you note, the
transformers for the low voltage halogens are pretty inefficient in many
cases. I have found however that some of the newer switched-mode
"transformers" for low voltage halogens are very efficient. (You can
identify the switched mode ones because they are not heavy.) I am very
pleased with the Osram "mouse" style "transformers" which I think are
marketed as Halotronic or something like that. I got them from a
commercial electrical supplier in Canberra, I think it was Rexel but I
can't remember. The TO-220 transistors inside don't get noticeably hot so
it can't be wasting much power, even though it puts out 105 Watts. Of
course I prefer the efficiency of compact fluorescent lamps but often other
family members prefer the look of halogens and so if halogens must be used
then the low voltage ones are the best, along with an efficient
switched-mode "transformer". A friend of mine has recently discovered a
newer variety of halogen bulbs which has an infra-red reflecting coating
which (as far as I can tell) somehow reflects the infra-red back onto the
filament, thereby keeping it hot without using as much power. My friend
reckons that 35W infra-red reflecting halogens are as bright as 50W
ordinary halogens.
Here's a link I found:
http://www.osram.com/service_corner/irc/index.html
You probably have to get these from a professional electrical wholesaler I
guess. These places are worth visiting anyway because there are so many
excellent lighting products around that you would never know about from
looking in a hardware store.

Chris

 

[mark_newton]

sijay wrote:

Huh? Its a bloody democracy? If IR doesnt work by the next election
Australians will vote his ass out

Arse. Vote his arse out. Spare me the Americanisms.

All the smear campaigns and multi million dollar advertising wont
save the liberals there

Oh? Smear campaigns and multi million dollar advertising campaigns have
worked very well for them so far.

- so surely you have to concede that somewhere in all the policy the
Libs think this is good for the country as a whole?

I concede no such thing.

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

"Greig Corlett" <greigcorlett@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:%H4vf.12582$vH5.641652@news.xtra.co.nz...

I have an Aiwa nsx f9 stereo which is completely dead. after a look around
the circuit I found 2 blown fuse resistors which feed into 2 power
transistors near the bottom of the main board after replacing these it is
still dead any ideas as to how to fix this unit. I have checked all the
power supply rails and they match similar wiring diagrams that I have. I
do not have the schematic for this exact model. if anyone has encounter
this fault before please help. this was a very nice stereo.

thanks

Greig

please reply to greigcorlett@gmail.com

So the fuses to the output stage blew, and on replacement nothing worked.

Just as a wild random guess could it be that the output stage has gone to
meet its maker ??
Have we checked the transistors? by golly since they are after the fuses I
wonder if there could be something wrong with them??
It is hardly an unusual fault with amps.
Check the supply to them and if its OK then test the output trannys and
their associated driving trannys.

--
Regards ......... Rheilly Phoull

 

[Jordan]

OK - reminds me of an episode of the Dick van Dyke Show - the first time
I'd heard the ass, U & me joke.
I can't get my 555 to behave with the magneto's RFI.

Jordan

Professor wrote:

Actually, the FlashAlert uses the 556 timer chip...

Professor
www.telstar-electronics.com