PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[keithr]

Trevor Wilson wrote:

Is this particular model made in Germany or elsewhere ?

**South Afrika. Ironically, the guy also owns a Golf. It was also made in
South Afrika. It has been perfectly reliable. He won't be buying a Benz
again.

The Toyota Corolla that I had until recently was South African built. It
was completely reliable although it did have to have a major field
upgrade soon after I bought it. I didn't perceive any problems, but it
was a nicer car to drive afterward.

 

[keithr]

Moonshadow wrote:

fritz wrote:
"kreed" wrote...
One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency, lower
life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even korean) brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always lead
automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.





When it comes to reliability, German cars are worse all the major
Japanese makes, and worse than Kia!

http://www.caradvice.com.au/1436/top-10-reliable-brands/

"Other manufacturers which performed relatively poorly in the list include

* Porsche (27.48%)
* BMW (28.64)
* Mercedes (29.90%)
* Audi (36.74%)
* Land Rover (44.21%)
* Jeep (46.35 %)"

They can't be worse than US cars, I had 2 GM vehicles, a Pontiac Grand
AM and a Chevy Blazer and they were both absolute crap.

The blaze had all sorts of trick stuff that after 5 years was dying.
It's best trick was the electrically adjusted driver's seat that
occasionally decided to adjust itself. You'd be driving along when
suddenly the steering wheel would start getting closer and closer.

 

[kreed]

On Dec 21, 10:26 am, "David L. Jones" <altz...@gmail.com> wrote:

Trevor Wilson wrote:
"fritz" <yapu...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:hgkv7b$c66$02$1@news.t-online.com...

"kreed" wrote...

One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency, lower
life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even korean)
brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always lead
automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.

**Clearly you have never owned a Japanese car. They are vastly more
reliable than any of the European brands.

Yup.
I had a Mazda 626 that did over 300,000km with hardly any trouble at all,
incredibly reliable, and never got professionally serviced, I just changed
the consumables myself whenever I got around to it. Worst problem ever was
the alternator going.
My current Opel has done only half that and it's constantly in the shop and
has broken down completely on many occasions. I think I've had half the bits
under the bonnet replaced. Has always leaked coolant like there's no
tomorrow (been in 4 times for coolant leaks alone). And I've had it dealer
serviced since new.

I presume this is Holden badged (Astra, Vectra).

(I saw when in Russia they also sell an Opel Omega, that is about the
size of our Camry, though here Holden probably sell the Apollo? /
Commodore instead for people interested in that size car)

Some other stuff to look forward to and to help you decide to get rid
of it
When the brake pads wear out, the entire disc has to be replaced as
well I am informed by my mechanic
when informing me of all the problems with 2 Astras that he services
for other customers - telling me how lucky I was I didn't buy one.
Wiring harness problems - intermittent are another favourite he said,
they can take hours to find and repair. Finally, they don't have a
brake light switch on the brake pedal, they use other methods via the
ECU of determining when braking occurs. This made a challenge of
finding why a brake light didn't work. Turned out to be the ECU
faulty. Expensive repair for such a "simple" fault. I would have
felt like installing a switch and wiring it direct to the lights, but
in a service situation, this probably isnt acceptable professionally
and might expose them to future liablity the way things are these
days.

The time I drove a friends 2003 Vectra about 300k distance, I just
about had callouses on my arse from the hard, uncomfortable seat that
was bad no matter how you tried to position yourself. Never again !

German cars are built like a brick out-house though, very solid, but the
reliability is abysmal.

Dave.

--
================================================
Check out my Electronics Engineering Video Blog & Podcast:http://www.eevblog.com

 

[fritz]

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:IBwXm.36097$gd1.29945@newsfe05.iad...

fritz wrote:
"kreed" wrote...

One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency, lower
life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even korean)
brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.

And so are some of the worst.
Even ownend an Opel?

Dave.

No
I deliberately left out Opel, they are not in the same league.

---------------------------------------------
Check out my Electronics Engineering Video Blog & Podcast:
http://www.eevblog.com

 

[fritz]

"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:7p7mu8FphlU1@mid.individual.net...

"fritz" <yaputya@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:hgkv7b$c66$02$1@news.t-online.com...

"kreed" wrote...

One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency, lower
life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even korean) brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always lead
automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.

**Clearly you have never owned a Japanese car. They are vastly more
reliable than any of the European brands. Including Mercs. In fact, one of
my clients owns a C Class Benz. It has been back to Mercedes 37 (THIRTY
SEVEN) times for under warranty faults. He asked for a replacement and
Merc refused.

Actually I have owned a Honda, only a shopping-trolley City though.
It was reliable, but so have all the cars I bought new.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[fritz]

"Moonshadow" <moonshadow@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:4b2ea7e5$1@news.comindico.com.au...

fritz wrote:
"kreed" wrote...
One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency, lower
life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even korean) brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always lead
automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.





When it comes to reliability, German cars are worse all the major Japanese
makes, and worse than Kia!

http://www.caradvice.com.au/1436/top-10-reliable-brands/

"Other manufacturers which performed relatively poorly in the list include

* Porsche (27.48%)
* BMW (28.64)
* Mercedes (29.90%)
* Audi (36.74%)
* Land Rover (44.21%)
* Jeep (46.35 %)"

That list was from an American consumers group.
The following is from the German equivalent of the NRMA, they deal
with breakdowns.

http://av.rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geunlfXS9L5w4A5iTrSKMX;_ylu=X3oDMTBvdmM3bGlxBHBndANhdl93ZWJfcmVzdWx0BHNlYwNzcg--/SIG=13uq6jd8e/EXP=1261481695/**http%3a//www.samar.pl/__/__la/en/__ac/sec,4/new/52321/__Audi-cars-dominate-2008-ADAC-reliability-report.html

 

[fritz]

"keithr" <keith@nowhere.com.au> wrote in message
news:4b2efde0$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au...

Moonshadow wrote:
fritz wrote:
"kreed" wrote...
One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency, lower
life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even korean) brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always lead
automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.





When it comes to reliability, German cars are worse all the major
Japanese makes, and worse than Kia!

http://www.caradvice.com.au/1436/top-10-reliable-brands/

"Other manufacturers which performed relatively poorly in the list
include

* Porsche (27.48%)
* BMW (28.64)
* Mercedes (29.90%)
* Audi (36.74%)
* Land Rover (44.21%)
* Jeep (46.35 %)"

They can't be worse than US cars, I had 2 GM vehicles, a Pontiac Grand AM
and a Chevy Blazer and they were both absolute crap.

The blaze had all sorts of trick stuff that after 5 years was dying. It's
best trick was the electrically adjusted driver's seat that occasionally
decided to adjust itself. You'd be driving along when suddenly the
steering wheel would start getting closer and closer.

For a European reliability survey (cars in Germany) see....

http://av.rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geunlfXS9L5w4A5iTrSKMX;_ylu=X3oDMTBvdmM3bGlxBHBndANhdl93ZWJfcmVzdWx0BHNlYwNzcg--/SIG=13uq6jd8e/EXP=1261481695/**http%3a//www.samar.pl/__/__la/en/__ac/sec,4/new/52321/__Audi-cars-dominate-2008-ADAC-reliability-report.html

 

[Moonshadow]

fritz wrote:

"Moonshadow" <moonshadow@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:4b2ea7e5$1@news.comindico.com.au...
fritz wrote:
"kreed" wrote...
One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency, lower
life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even korean) brands.
Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always lead
automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.




When it comes to reliability, German cars are worse all the major Japanese
makes, and worse than Kia!

http://www.caradvice.com.au/1436/top-10-reliable-brands/

"Other manufacturers which performed relatively poorly in the list include

* Porsche (27.48%)
* BMW (28.64)
* Mercedes (29.90%)
* Audi (36.74%)
* Land Rover (44.21%)
* Jeep (46.35 %)"

That list was from an American consumers group.
The following is from the German equivalent of the NRMA, they deal
with breakdowns.

http://av.rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geunlfXS9L5w4A5iTrSKMX;_ylu=X3oDMTBvdmM3bGlxBHBndANhdl93ZWJfcmVzdWx0BHNlYwNzcg--/SIG=13uq6jd8e/EXP=1261481695/**http%3a//www.samar.pl/__/__la/en/__ac/sec,4/new/52321/__Audi-cars-dominate-2008-ADAC-reliability-report.html

It's strange that the results of the two surveys seem contradictory.

One could imagine parochial bias in the ADAC survey, but it seems
unlikely. Warranty Direct would gain no advantage I can see by distortion.

Any explanations anyone?

 

[David L. Jones]

kreed wrote:

On Dec 21, 10:26 am, "David L. Jones" <altz...@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"fritz" <yapu...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:hgkv7b$c66$02$1@news.t-online.com...

"kreed" wrote...

One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency,
lower life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even
korean) brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always
lead automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.

**Clearly you have never owned a Japanese car. They are vastly more
reliable than any of the European brands.

Yup.
I had a Mazda 626 that did over 300,000km with hardly any trouble at
all, incredibly reliable, and never got professionally serviced, I
just changed
the consumables myself whenever I got around to it. Worst problem
ever was
the alternator going.
My current Opel has done only half that and it's constantly in the
shop and
has broken down completely on many occasions. I think I've had half
the bits under the bonnet replaced. Has always leaked coolant like
there's no
tomorrow (been in 4 times for coolant leaks alone). And I've had it
dealer serviced since new.

I presume this is Holden badged (Astra, Vectra).

Vectra, 2002.

(I saw when in Russia they also sell an Opel Omega, that is about the
size of our Camry, though here Holden probably sell the Apollo? /
Commodore instead for people interested in that size car)

Some other stuff to look forward to and to help you decide to get rid
of it
When the brake pads wear out, the entire disc has to be replaced as
well I am informed by my mechanic

Your mechanic is wrong.
I've had my pads replaced twice, and the only thing they recommend is to
machine the discs (it's a "would you like fries with that" upsell thing).
The pads actually last a long time.

when informing me of all the problems with 2 Astras that he services
for other customers - telling me how lucky I was I didn't buy one.
Wiring harness problems - intermittent are another favourite he said,
they can take hours to find and repair. Finally, they don't have a
brake light switch on the brake pedal, they use other methods via the
ECU of determining when braking occurs. This made a challenge of
finding why a brake light didn't work. Turned out to be the ECU
faulty. Expensive repair for such a "simple" fault. I would have
felt like installing a switch and wiring it direct to the lights, but
in a service situation, this probably isnt acceptable professionally
and might expose them to future liablity the way things are these
days.

The time I drove a friends 2003 Vectra about 300k distance, I just
about had callouses on my arse from the hard, uncomfortable seat that
was bad no matter how you tried to position yourself. Never again !

I don't find it hard, just the posture position a bit uncomfortable for long
trips.

I've contemplated swapping it for a similar priced used Jap car, but Mr
Murphy gets me every time, so probably better the devil I know.

Dave.

--
================================================
Check out my Electronics Engineering Video Blog & Podcast:
http://www.eevblog.com

 

[Superman]

HeadRush wrote:

"Superman"<"c/- Lois.Lane"@metropolis.com> wrote in message
news:aZ1Ym.63977$ze1.39972@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

HeadRush wrote:


"|-|ercules"<h@r.c> wrote in message
news:tBsXm.63569$ze1.7151@news-server.bigpond.net.au...


I'm thinking of renting a 40 inch LCD TV for my bedroom, but the antenna
socket is in the loungeroom,
rather than run a cable can you still get those TV repeaters? Do they
work with digital?


You do know those "TV repeaters" use brain penetrating microwaves to do
their thing don't you?


Is that true? or is this just a typical aus.tv nonsense post? mine runs at
2.4mhz which is the same as (some) cordless phones. (my cordless phone is
on 5.8mhz) If what you say is true, then it applies to cordless phones as
well.

No, it would run at 2.4GHz, not MHz.

From: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave_oven

A microwave oven works by passing non-ionizing microwave radiation, usually
at a frequency of 2.45 gigahertz (a wavelength of 12.24 centimetres (4.82
in)), through the food. Microwave radiation is between common radio and
infrared frequencies.

Yes, I meant GHz not MHz. But the point of my post was to ask if there
is any health risk associated with such transmissions. Now that WiFi
networks are also becoming commonplace one has to wonder. In a microwave
oven the raditaion is confined within it, but with these other devices
it's transmitted throughout the household.

HR

--
rgds,

Pete
=====
http://pw352.blogspot.com

"We stopped the boats coming. The facts speak for themselves. People knew where we stood. We didn't try to be all things to all men. Look, our policy worked. There was no need to alter it" - John Howard

"Our journalists are finally noticing the elephant in the room. Rudd has given us grocery watch, fuel watch, a national dept our children will still be paying, an ETS scheme that will further bankrupt the nation without making an iota of difference to global warming. Rudd is all spin and no substance. Even worse, he expects to fool all people all the time." - media comment

"I don't care what you f__kers think!" - The Hon Kevin Rudd MP, Prime Minister of Australia

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2009-12-22, Superman <"c/- Lois.Lane"@metropolis.com> wrote:

Yes, I meant GHz not MHz. But the point of my post was to ask if there
is any health risk associated with such transmissions. Now that WiFi
networks are also becoming commonplace one has to wonder. In a microwave
oven the raditaion is confined within it, but with these other devices
it's transmitted throughout the household.

The microwave oven operates at several hundered times the power level
of the wi-fi equipment. this is greater than the difference between a
hair dryer and an oxy-acetylene torch,

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[fritz]

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@xnet.co.nz> wrote in message
news:hgvik5$mgu$2@reversiblemaps.ath.cx...

On 2009-12-22, Superman <"c/- Lois.Lane"@metropolis.com> wrote:


Yes, I meant GHz not MHz. But the point of my post was to ask if there
is any health risk associated with such transmissions. Now that WiFi
networks are also becoming commonplace one has to wonder. In a microwave
oven the raditaion is confined within it, but with these other devices
it's transmitted throughout the household.


The microwave oven operates at several hundered times the power level
of the wi-fi equipment. this is greater than the difference between a
hair dryer and an oxy-acetylene torch,

Very true.
Also, unless you are in the habit of sticking your WiFi antenna up your
arse,
you are likely to be of the order of a meter away from the source.

Cellphones are potentially far more dangerous, 'coz you virtually stick 'em
in your
ear. (The old distance squared law of radiation).
But even they have been cleared of any measurable risk by the long-term
studies
that actually correlated usage with risk. WiFi must be even safer.

 

[kreed]

On Dec 22, 11:16 am, "David L. Jones" <altz...@gmail.com> wrote:

kreed wrote:
On Dec 21, 10:26 am, "David L. Jones" <altz...@gmail.com> wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:
"fritz" <yapu...@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:hgkv7b$c66$02$1@news.t-online.com...

"kreed" wrote...

One case where you should NOT buy locally is western made cars
compared to asian imports (japan etc).
Western cars in my experience generally have worse build quality,
outdated design and technology, higher price, less efficiency,
lower life, lower resale values than most Japanese (and even
korean) brands.

Rubbish, the best cars in the world are made by German companies.
They have the highest build quality in the world and they always
lead automotive
technology in all areas -e.g. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc.

**Clearly you have never owned a Japanese car. They are vastly more
reliable than any of the European brands.

Yup.
I had a Mazda 626 that did over 300,000km with hardly any trouble at
all, incredibly reliable, and never got professionally serviced, I
just changed
the consumables myself whenever I got around to it. Worst problem
ever was
the alternator going.
My current Opel has done only half that and it's constantly in the
shop and
has broken down completely on many occasions. I think I've had half
the bits under the bonnet replaced. Has always leaked coolant like
there's no
tomorrow (been in 4 times for coolant leaks alone). And I've had it
dealer serviced since new.

I presume this is Holden badged (Astra, Vectra).

Vectra, 2002.

(I saw when in Russia they also sell an Opel Omega, that is about the
size of our Camry, though here Holden probably sell the Apollo? /
Commodore instead for people interested in that size car)

Some other stuff to look forward to and to help you decide to get rid
of it
When the brake pads wear out, the entire disc has to be replaced as
well I am informed by my mechanic

Your mechanic is wrong.
I've had my pads replaced twice, and the only thing they recommend is to
machine the discs (it's a "would you like fries with that" upsell thing).
The pads actually last a long time.



when informing me of all the problems with 2 Astras that he services
for other customers - telling me how lucky I was I didn't buy one.
Wiring harness problems - intermittent are another favourite he said,
they can take hours to find and repair. Finally, they don't have a
brake light switch on the brake pedal, they use other methods via the
ECU of determining when braking occurs. This made a challenge of
finding why a brake light didn't work. Turned out to be the ECU
faulty. Expensive repair for such a "simple" fault. I would have
felt like installing a switch and wiring it direct to the lights, but
in a service situation, this probably isnt acceptable professionally
and might expose them to future liablity the way things are these
days.

The time I drove a friends 2003 Vectra about 300k distance, I just
about had callouses on my arse from the hard, uncomfortable seat that
was bad no matter how you tried to position yourself. Never again !

I don't find it hard, just the posture position a bit uncomfortable for long
trips.

I've contemplated swapping it for a similar priced used Jap car, but Mr
Murphy gets me every time, so probably better the devil I know.

Dave.

--
================================================
Check out my Electronics Engineering Video Blog & Podcast:http://www.eevblog.com

 

[Phil Allison]

"David L. Jones"

After 12 months or so of steady decline on prices of the Rigol DS1052E
scope on eBay (and other places), with them being around the US$400 mark
or less for some time now from countless ebay sellers, the price has
suddenly jumped up to US$550 or more from all sellers. There has also been
a sudden and drastic reduction in the number of sellers for this scope.

I've heard that one ebay seller has been acused of "dumping" the scope at
low prices by another seller and has had their listings removed.

and a quote from a cancelled ebay listing:
"We'd like to let you know that eBay has ended an item you were bidding on
for breaching of one or more of our policies. As it's important that eBay
maintains member privacy, we can't tell you exactly why the listing was
removed."

** Bests Rigol prices seem to be from Aussie on-line dealers at the moment:

Example: A$495 inc delivery

http://purchasenet.com.au/shopping/rigol-ds1052e-digital-storage-oscilloscope-2ch-p-1664.html?osCsid=07dbb53dce6efbc6902

Then there is this similar DSO for A$431 inc delivery:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ATTEN-ADS1062C-60-MHz-2-Channel-Digital-Oscilloscope_W0QQitemZ220524795058QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment?hash=item33584d54b2

So much scope, so little money.....

Might eBay have pulled the plug cos of complaints that Rigol scopes were
sold in a way that avoided local taxes like GST ??



...... Phil

 

[Superman]

On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy ppl
here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access point?
Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one connected
to the modem, and the other where I want the other access point? Or
else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection point?
Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a cable from
the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long. Would that
length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc., and what kind
of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do it as cheaply as
possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I could use the spare
modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable point that is already there.

--
rgds,

Pete
=====
http://pw352.blogspot.com

"We stopped the boats coming. The facts speak for themselves. People knew where we stood. We didn't try to be all things to all men. Look, our policy worked. There was no need to alter it" - John Howard

"Our journalists are finally noticing the elephant in the room. Rudd has given us grocery watch, fuel watch, a national dept our children will still be paying, an ETS scheme that will further bankrupt the nation without making an iota of difference to global warming. Rudd is all spin and no substance. Even worse, he expects to fool all people all the time." - media comment

"I don't care what you f__kers think!" - The Hon Kevin Rudd MP, Prime Minister of Australia

 

[Rob]

Superman wrote:

On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy ppl
here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access point?
Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one connected
to the modem, and the other where I want the other access point? Or
else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection point?
Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a cable from
the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long. Would that
length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc., and what kind
of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do it as cheaply as
possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I could use the spare
modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable point that is already
there.

Thats why you need the N router so you can go wireless or run a cable
from the router to the PC - 40 metres is nothing.

 

[atec 7 7]

Superman wrote:

On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy ppl
here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable access
point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so I'm
wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same MAC
address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access point?
Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one connected
to the modem, and the other where I want the other access point? Or
else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection point?
Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a cable from
the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long. Would that
length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc., and what kind
of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do it as cheaply as
possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I could use the spare
modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable point that is already
there.

go here

http://www.dd-wrt.com and upgrade the firmware
run the modem end in wireless ap the other end in wds client swap macs
and off you go a seamless connection

 

[Superman]

On 2/01/2010 12:05 AM, atec 7 7 wrote:

Superman wrote:
On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy
ppl here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable
access point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so
I'm wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same
MAC address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access
point? Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one
connected to the modem, and the other where I want the other access
point? Or else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection
point? Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a
cable from the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long.
Would that length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc.,
and what kind of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do
it as cheaply as possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I
could use the spare modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable
point that is already there.

go here
http://www.dd-wrt.com and upgrade the firmware
run the modem end in wireless ap the other end in wds client swap
macs and off you go a seamless connection

thanks but I don't understand any of that! maybe I'll ring Bigpond help.
but that's an oxymoron isn't it.

--
rgds,

Pete
=====
http://pw352.blogspot.com

"We stopped the boats coming. The facts speak for themselves. People knew where we stood. We didn't try to be all things to all men. Look, our policy worked. There was no need to alter it" - John Howard

"Our journalists are finally noticing the elephant in the room. Rudd has given us grocery watch, fuel watch, a national dept our children will still be paying, an ETS scheme that will further bankrupt the nation without making an iota of difference to global warming. Rudd is all spin and no substance. Even worse, he expects to fool all people all the time." - media comment

"I don't care what you f__kers think!" - The Hon Kevin Rudd MP, Prime Minister of Australia

 

[kreed]

On Jan 1, 8:10 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:

"David L. Jones"

After 12 months or so of steady decline on prices of the Rigol DS1052E
scope on eBay (and other places), with them being around the US$400 mark
or less for some time now from countless ebay sellers, the price has
suddenly jumped up to US$550 or more from all sellers. There has also been
a sudden and drastic reduction in the number of sellers for this scope.

I've heard that one ebay seller has been acused of "dumping" the scope at
low prices by another seller and has had their listings removed.

and a quote from a cancelled ebay listing:
"We'd like to let you know that eBay has ended an item you were bidding on
for breaching of one or more of our policies. As it's important that eBay
maintains member privacy, we can't tell you exactly why the listing was
removed."

** Bests Rigol prices seem to be from Aussie on-line dealers at the moment:

Example: A$495 inc delivery

http://purchasenet.com.au/shopping/rigol-ds1052e-digital-storage-osci...

Then there is this similar DSO for A$431 inc delivery:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ATTEN-ADS1062C-60-MHz-2-Channel-Digital-Oscill...

So much scope, so little money.....


Might eBay have pulled the plug cos of complaints that Rigol scopes were
sold in a way that avoided local taxes like GST ??

..... Phil

Hope not, because that could end up with large numbers of foreign
listings being canned, and us being screwed.



The infamous "exclusive distribution rights" scam might also be
involved with them being pulled
(if the law here covers such items).

 

[atec 7 7]

Superman wrote:

On 2/01/2010 12:05 AM, atec 7 7 wrote:

Superman wrote:
On 1/01/2010 10:05 PM, Rob wrote:

Superman wrote:

This will probably seem like a dumbass question to the tech savvy
ppl here, but here goes..

Q1/ I have a Bigpond cable modem, and I believe that BP connects
using the MAC address of the modem? I also have another cable
access point and modem of the same kind (Motorola Surfboard), so
I'm wondering if there's any way to set the spare modem to the same
MAC address so that I can set up another internet access point?

Q2/ If that's not possible, how do I create another net access
point? Do I use two of these.. http://tinyurl.com/yb5ptns .. one
connected to the modem, and the other where I want the other access
point? Or else how do I do it?

Thanks,

**


The modem goes to a router then tap off that for all connections,
wired or wireless.

Get an 'N' router not the 'G' as you suggest above. Check the specs.

D-LINK Wireless N Router DIR-615 not the D-LINK Wireless G Router
DIR-300 - Check the specs. If keen on DLink

Ok, I get that the router connects to the modem, but what does the
router transmit to? so that I can get another internet connection
point? Do I just use another router of the same kind? Or if I run a
cable from the router it would need to be about 30 or 40 metres long.
Would that length be a problem, eg. signal loss, interference, etc.,
and what kind of wall plates/sockets would I use? I also want to do
it as cheaply as possible. The easiest way to do it would be if I
could use the spare modem somehow, and just connect it to the cable
point that is already there.

go here
http://www.dd-wrt.com and upgrade the firmware
run the modem end in wireless ap the other end in wds client swap
macs and off you go a seamless connection

thanks but I don't understand any of that! maybe I'll ring Bigpond help.
but that's an oxymoron isn't it.

pretty much