Maximum rep rate for a standard microswitch.

On 2019-09-16, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:
On 9/16/2019 11:11 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 15 Sep 2019 19:46:18 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:

I have a Root Veeder counter all it needs is a pulse, I wanted the
project to be counting the turns on a coil, not developing a circuit to
make a pulse to drive the counter.

Thanks. So now you disclose what you're trying to accomplish. I
assumed you wanted a tachometer for the drill press. So, use a hall
effect or photoelectric proximity sensor:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hall+effect+proximity+sensor
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=photoelectric+proximity+sensor

I'm not sure what you have from Veeder Root. If it's marginal, look
for an industrial counter or "totalizer":
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=electronic+totalizer
https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/industrial-controls-automation-and-machine-safety/industrial-automation/meters-counters-and-plc/counters


Hi Jeff,
This should be simple although the mounting mechanics were a little
chore. I still haven't found my reed switches, but I expect that will work.
The is my counter.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2tx6mf6448d9by/counter.jpg?dl=0

looks kind of like this one:
https://www.newark.com/veeder-root/0120506-010/fubar/dp/29C9024
but hopefully less expensive!

That one does 1000 counts per minute so it should work at 360 rpm, but
that number also implies that a 30ms pulse width may be needed, which
your 1/12 dwell ratio may not reach. OTOH your DC counter may have a
faster mechanism as it doen't need to operate from AC, so no shading
rings etc.






--
When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.
 
On Mon, 16 Sep 2019 07:22:19 -0700, jlarkin wrote:

Microswitch on a drill press? OK, I confess, I've never done that.
But a small microswitch should work at 80 ms on/off time. Do you think
it won't?

I suppose if the OP rigged up his drill press with a generously forgiving
cam (even an eccentrically-mounted circular collar around the quill would
work if it were machined sufficiently smoothly for the uswitch lever and
would probably not need de-bouncing. But that's still sub-optimal. I
still think the laser-photodiode approach is best, but as modified by the
chap who suggested reflective tape in place of the mirror.


I don't like reeds, at least reed relays with coils. They are expensive
and unreliable. Their rated speeds are illusions, because they bounce
and twang for ages.



--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
 
On 16/09/2019 18:20, amdx wrote:
On 9/16/2019 11:11 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 15 Sep 2019 19:46:18 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net
wrote:

I have a Root Veeder counter all it needs is a pulse, I wanted
the project to be counting the turns on a coil, not developing a
circuit to make a pulse to drive the counter.

Thanks. So now you disclose what you're trying to accomplish. I
assumed you wanted a tachometer for the drill press. So, use a
hall effect or photoelectric proximity sensor:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hall+effect+proximity+sensor


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=photoelectric+proximity+sensor

I'm not sure what you have from Veeder Root. If it's marginal,
look for an industrial counter or "totalizer":
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=electronic+totalizer
https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/industrial-controls-automation-and-machine-safety/industrial-automation/meters-counters-and-plc/counters


Hi Jeff, This should be simple although the mounting mechanics were a
little chore. I still haven't found my reed switches, but I expect
that will work. The is my counter.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2tx6mf6448d9by/counter.jpg?dl=0

I think you might need to figure out what voltage, pulse length and
current your counter needs to count reliably. Then you can put a one
shot 555 on the output of your raw contact output to provide it. This
will also debounce the noisy switch contacts in the process.

You might be better off with a pulley and a classic rotating wheels
mechanical counter with a reset lever for what you are wanting to do.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown
 
amdx wrote:

I have a Root Veeder counter all it needs is a pulse, I wanted the
project to be counting the turns on a coil, not developing a circuit to
make a pulse to drive the counter.

** I just tried a common micro-switch, the kind with a metal actuator and small wheel on the end.

" Cherry Elect. E33 10A 1/2HP 125-250VAC "

With a battery powered drill and using the small bumps on the rubber grip around the chuck to move the actuator up and down - I easily got it to operate at over 60Hz.

A 12V supply with 100 ohm resistor and the switch all in series produced an output signal close to square shaped that I viewed on a scope.

Conclusion: your mechanical counter is not up to the job.

Get yourself an electronic one.

For the little bit of work you need to do, a micro-switch will last long enough.


..... Phil
 
On Monday, September 16, 2019 at 10:06:56 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:

Blah, blah, blah...

** Sounds like a sheep with a bad cold ...

Negative. That would sound more like... "blaaaaaaaah, blaaaaaaaah, blaaaaaaah".

Surprising you wouldn't know that, given your intimate relationship with the species.
 
Chris Jones wrote:

---------------------

Personally, I would not immediately elect to use a reed switch for
this application.


** For a simple turns counter sensor - why ever not?

One reason: If you are no better at winding coils than I am, then
sometimes you will need to stop and reverse, to correct situations where
the wire is not winding in the right place. With a simple reed switch or
microswitch, the turns count will increase even as you unwind any badly
wound turns, leading to an incorrect total.

** The OP has a drill press which, in my experience, do not reverse.

His counter shows the actual turns number and if in excess he has to hand wind it back by so many turns.

Zeroing the counter first allows that job to be exact.


When I built a coil winder as a schoolkid, I used two slotted optical
sensors displaced by 90 degrees around the shaft, with a semicircular
flag mounted on the shaft. To count the turns I wrote my first interrupt
service routine, in what was probably my first 6502 assembly code,
running on a BBC micro. This would keep a correct count of the turns
even if wound forwards and backwards as necessary to correct any
problems with the winding.

** If the OP added a second reed, he could do something like that too.

I betcha he will not bother.

FYI:

I answered the original question as posed, but my latest post(2 hrs ago)shows the micro-switch is not likely the cause of his issues.


..... Phil
 
On 17/09/2019 08:46, Phil Allison wrote:
mpm wrote:

--------------


Or, is expecting the switch to operate at 6Hz just to fast for a
standard microswitch?



Personally, I would not immediately elect to use a reed switch for
this application.


** For a simple turns counter sensor - why ever not?

One reason: If you are no better at winding coils than I am, then
sometimes you will need to stop and reverse, to correct situations where
the wire is not winding in the right place. With a simple reed switch or
microswitch, the turns count will increase even as you unwind any badly
wound turns, leading to an incorrect total.

When I built a coil winder as a schoolkid, I used two slotted optical
sensors displaced by 90 degrees around the shaft, with a semicircular
flag mounted on the shaft. To count the turns I wrote my first interrupt
service routine, in what was probably my first 6502 assembly code,
running on a BBC micro. This would keep a correct count of the turns
even if wound forwards and backwards as necessary to correct any
problems with the winding.

By the way, here's an article about some nice coil winding:
https://www.pearl-hifi.com/06_Lit_Archive/02_PEARL_Arch/Vol_16/Sec_53/Philips_Tech_Review/PTechReview-23-1961_62-365.pdf
 
mmillard@cellantenna.com wrote in
news:dd71d430-592f-486a-8048-b6ccec961800@googlegroups.com:

On Monday, September 16, 2019 at 10:06:56 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison
wrote:

Blah, blah, blah...

** Sounds like a sheep with a bad cold ...

Negative. That would sound more like... "blaaaaaaaah,
blaaaaaaaah, blaaaaaaah".

Surprising you wouldn't know that, given your intimate
relationship with the species.

Actually, yours is incorrect. It would not have the 'l' in it.

A sheep cannot articulate an l sound.

Hard to write out congested bronchial sounds as you try to also
convey a word.
 
On 9/17/2019 5:21 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
amdx wrote:



I have a Root Veeder counter all it needs is a pulse, I wanted the
project to be counting the turns on a coil, not developing a circuit to
make a pulse to drive the counter.


** I just tried a common micro-switch, the kind with a metal actuator and small wheel on the end.

" Cherry Elect. E33 10A 1/2HP 125-250VAC "

With a battery powered drill and using the small bumps on the rubber grip around the chuck to move the actuator up and down - I easily got it to operate at over 60Hz.

A 12V supply with 100 ohm resistor and the switch all in series produced an output signal close to square shaped that I viewed on a scope.

Conclusion: your mechanical counter is not up to the job.

Get yourself an electronic one.

For the little bit of work you need to do, a micro-switch will last long enough.


.... Phil
I may make another attempt, although I think I will use my battery
powered drill. Connecting it to a variable power supply through a foot
switch. Running my drill press at 330 RPMs (slowest speed) is a little
fast and with the foot switch start and stop is kinda jerky. With the
variable power supply I can set the speed.
Somewhere around here I have a PWM circuit I built and used when I
wound a 40 inch x 8" coil with 800 turns, (tesla coil)
I made a couple of bobbins and winding form last night, I need to
varnish the bobbins and then however I do it, it's ready to wind.
Mikek
 
On 9/17/2019 7:16 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Chris Jones wrote:

---------------------



Personally, I would not immediately elect to use a reed switch for
this application.


** For a simple turns counter sensor - why ever not?

One reason: If you are no better at winding coils than I am, then
sometimes you will need to stop and reverse, to correct situations where
the wire is not winding in the right place. With a simple reed switch or
microswitch, the turns count will increase even as you unwind any badly
wound turns, leading to an incorrect total.


** The OP has a drill press which, in my experience, do not reverse.

His counter shows the actual turns number and if in excess he has to hand wind it back by so many turns.

Zeroing the counter first allows that job to be exact.


When I built a coil winder as a schoolkid, I used two slotted optical
sensors displaced by 90 degrees around the shaft, with a semicircular
flag mounted on the shaft. To count the turns I wrote my first interrupt
service routine, in what was probably my first 6502 assembly code,
running on a BBC micro. This would keep a correct count of the turns
even if wound forwards and backwards as necessary to correct any
problems with the winding.

** If the OP added a second reed, he could do something like that too.

I betcha he will not bother.

FYI:

I answered the original question as posed, but my latest post(2 hrs ago)shows the micro-switch is not likely the cause of his issues.


.... Phil
Yes Phil, you are mostly correct, I think the cause of malfunction
was the mounting. I mounted the bracket holding the micro switch to the
belt cover. I think there is to much vibration of the belt cover ass'y.
As I said above, I'm going to go with my dc powered hand drill and
Variable power supply with foot switch.
Re: my manilla paper bobbins, I jus did a couple of test pieces, I
coated one with polyurethane the other with fiberglas resin.
I suspect the resin will be the best stiffener, but I'll know in an hour.
My pretty much yes or no question, turned into a rather long thread,
you stayed on point and actually measured a micro switch and answered
very specifically. Thanks, Mikek
 
On Tue, 17 Sep 2019 04:43:03 -0000 (UTC), Jasen Betts
<jasen@xnet.co.nz> wrote:

On 2019-09-17, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Mon, 16 Sep 2019 12:20:13 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:
This should be simple although the mounting mechanics were a little
chore. I still haven't found my reed switches, but I expect that will work.

Nothing is simple. Complexity is symptom of civilization.

This is my counter.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n2tx6mf6448d9by/counter.jpg?dl=0

Retch. Pure mechanical. I can't read the model number from your
photo (because it's otto focus) so I can't dig for the specs. My
guess(tm) is that it's a gear drive, driven by a solenoid and ratchet.
The ratchet mechanism makes it really slow. I doubt you could get
more than 1 count per second out of it. Got a square wave generator
and a power xsistor? Try feeding it a 50% duty cycle square wave and
increase the frequency until it starts to miss the count.

I've run a solenoid-ratchet counter at 50 counts per second (but it said
it was capable of this on the boilerplate)

Amdx's counter has the appearance of being an older device than the one
I had. It looks Art-Deco, so possibly designed in the 1930s.

However it could be that it just needs a clean and re-lubrication to
restore its performance.

Here's a few of mechanical counters, where the usual measure of
performance is in counts per minutes, not seconds:
<http://catalog.enmco.com/category/enm-counting-instruments-mechanical-counter>
Typical is 500 counts/minute (8.3 Hz). One claims 3000 counts/minutes
(50 Hz). Veeder-Root makes a high-speed model that will do 6000
counts/minute (100 Hz).
<https://www.specialtyproducttechnologies.com/veeder-root/products/mechanical-counters/product-details/0729825-003>
So, you might be right about the speed, at least with high-speed
maniacal counters.

In the early 1960's, the choices for radiation event counting was
either one of these mechanical counters or a neon lamp ring counter.
<https://www.dos4ever.com/ring/ring.html>
The mechanical counters would miss counts that were too closely
spaced, while the ring counters would false trigger. For important
experiments, both were used at the same time and the average of the
two wrong numbers was decreed to be accurate. To keep me out of the
way and busy, I was given the task of cleaning and oiling the
mechanical counters. Most were Veeder-Root, similar to the one in
question. Many were full of metal, plastic, or Bakelite shavings from
the ratchet pawl acting much like a chisel. I lightened the spring
tension and buried the mechanism in light grease. Performance
improved, closing the gap between the mechanical and ring counters.
Someone noticed, and allowed me to continue my tinkering in the hope
that I could make further improvements. Nope. I only found ways to
make things worse. For example, one grease I tried turned to tar when
cold causing the ratchet pawl to slide over the gear. I did make
minor improvements by polishing the ratchet teeth and tweaking the
profile. Not bad for a 15 year old. I don't recall the performance
numbers, but I think my mechanical hot-rod counters were able to do
about 1,000 counts/minute. When the lab switched from Geiger tubes to
scintillation counters, the count rate went higher than the mechanical
counters could handle, so the mechanical counters were relegated to
the junk pile.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Tuesday, 17 September 2019 15:11:55 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
On 9/17/2019 7:16 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Chris Jones wrote:

---------------------



Personally, I would not immediately elect to use a reed switch for
this application.


** For a simple turns counter sensor - why ever not?

One reason: If you are no better at winding coils than I am, then
sometimes you will need to stop and reverse, to correct situations where
the wire is not winding in the right place. With a simple reed switch or
microswitch, the turns count will increase even as you unwind any badly
wound turns, leading to an incorrect total.


** The OP has a drill press which, in my experience, do not reverse.

His counter shows the actual turns number and if in excess he has to hand wind it back by so many turns.

Zeroing the counter first allows that job to be exact.


When I built a coil winder as a schoolkid, I used two slotted optical
sensors displaced by 90 degrees around the shaft, with a semicircular
flag mounted on the shaft. To count the turns I wrote my first interrupt
service routine, in what was probably my first 6502 assembly code,
running on a BBC micro. This would keep a correct count of the turns
even if wound forwards and backwards as necessary to correct any
problems with the winding.

** If the OP added a second reed, he could do something like that too.

I betcha he will not bother.

FYI:

I answered the original question as posed, but my latest post(2 hrs ago)shows the micro-switch is not likely the cause of his issues.


.... Phil


Yes Phil, you are mostly correct, I think the cause of malfunction
was the mounting. I mounted the bracket holding the micro switch to the
belt cover. I think there is to much vibration of the belt cover ass'y.
As I said above, I'm going to go with my dc powered hand drill and
Variable power supply with foot switch.
Re: my manilla paper bobbins, I jus did a couple of test pieces, I
coated one with polyurethane the other with fiberglas resin.
I suspect the resin will be the best stiffener, but I'll know in an hour.
My pretty much yes or no question, turned into a rather long thread,
you stayed on point and actually measured a micro switch and answered
very specifically. Thanks, Mikek

Layers of paper + resin makes a very tough sheet material.


NT
 
On Tue, 17 Sep 2019 11:33:09 +1000, Sylvia Else <sylvia@email.invalid>
wrote:

On 16/09/2019 11:21 pm, amdx wrote:
On 9/15/2019 10:13 PM, Sylvia Else wrote:
On 16/09/2019 9:45 am, amdx wrote:
I wanted to make a turns counter for my drill press.
I have it set for 330 RPMs or about 6 cycles per second.
  It doesn't work. Unreliable counting.
  My high point is (switch closure time) about 1/12 of the rotation,
I wonder if I did a 50/50 duty cycle if it would be better.

Or, is expecting the switch to operate at 6Hz just to fast for a
standard microswitch?

                                  Mikek

How are you doing the counting?

Sylvia.

Veeder-Root counter, 12V 8 Watts.
 I tried to post a Dropbox picture, lately the link in my Dropbox
window does not highlight to copy.
I had this problem then it started working, now having it again,
anyone else having Dropbox problems?

                             Mikek

Looks like an electromechanical device. It's entirely possible that it
is not designed to handle a 6Hz rate.

As others have suggested, you probably need an optical/magnetic and
electronic solution to get this to work reliably.

Sylvia.

Might be OK if the cam gave a 50% duty cycle... not 1/12.
 
On Mon, 16 Sep 2019 18:48:41 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
<pallison49@gmail.com> wrote:

Rick Cunt is a know nothing PIG
-----------------------------


** Nice unit but overkill.

Who gives a crap if it is overkill???


** Anyone who was sane ?

Mr C just has to be a code scribbler.

Bet he never got the chicken joke on BBT.



.... Phil

It is easy to tell when someone has no clue of what they are talking about, they have to use profanity and personal insults.


** 1000% wrong.

YOU are a KNOWN fuckwit and brain dead TROLL.

No need exists to debate with people you, at all.

Getting you to piss off would be a public service.

For Christ's sake FOAD.



.... Phil

Phil, are you just putting us on?
 
On 9/17/2019 12:15 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, 17 September 2019 15:11:55 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
On 9/17/2019 7:16 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Chris Jones wrote:

---------------------



Personally, I would not immediately elect to use a reed switch for
this application.


** For a simple turns counter sensor - why ever not?

One reason: If you are no better at winding coils than I am, then
sometimes you will need to stop and reverse, to correct situations where
the wire is not winding in the right place. With a simple reed switch or
microswitch, the turns count will increase even as you unwind any badly
wound turns, leading to an incorrect total.


** The OP has a drill press which, in my experience, do not reverse.

His counter shows the actual turns number and if in excess he has to hand wind it back by so many turns.

Zeroing the counter first allows that job to be exact.


When I built a coil winder as a schoolkid, I used two slotted optical
sensors displaced by 90 degrees around the shaft, with a semicircular
flag mounted on the shaft. To count the turns I wrote my first interrupt
service routine, in what was probably my first 6502 assembly code,
running on a BBC micro. This would keep a correct count of the turns
even if wound forwards and backwards as necessary to correct any
problems with the winding.

** If the OP added a second reed, he could do something like that too.

I betcha he will not bother.

FYI:

I answered the original question as posed, but my latest post(2 hrs ago)shows the micro-switch is not likely the cause of his issues.


.... Phil


Yes Phil, you are mostly correct, I think the cause of malfunction
was the mounting. I mounted the bracket holding the micro switch to the
belt cover. I think there is to much vibration of the belt cover ass'y.
As I said above, I'm going to go with my dc powered hand drill and
Variable power supply with foot switch.
Re: my manilla paper bobbins, I jus did a couple of test pieces, I
coated one with polyurethane the other with fiberglas resin.
I suspect the resin will be the best stiffener, but I'll know in an hour.
My pretty much yes or no question, turned into a rather long thread,
you stayed on point and actually measured a micro switch and answered
very specifically. Thanks, Mikek

Layers of paper + resin makes a very tough sheet material.


NT
Yes, the resin is by far the best of Hairspray, Wheat paste,
hairspray, Clear Krylon, and Polyurethane.
I made the bobbins with Manila folder paper, elmers glued two pieces
for the end caps and put one layer of fiberglas resin over it. It's
stiff enough. In fact it's quite stiff.
I have finished a working coil winder using my 14.4V dc drill,
microswitch and the Veeder-Root Model B 124806 (for Jeff). It is working
fine at all speeds, but I'll run it in first gear at a slightly reduced
voltage of 12V just to keep the counter happy. I did put a diode across
the coil. I have an on/off foot switch connected. It's a one job use
winder, so just cobbled together
I'll add end caps to my bobbin jig when I wind the coils. Now all I
need to do is start winding. The counter clanks pretty loud, I'll need
to work before the wife goes to bed.
I got to try out my Systron Donner 40V 15 amp power supply that was
given to me. It's got 10 turn pots for voltage and current limit adjust.
Model RS40-15B, Probably very old, very heavy, cut two fingers on the
heat sink moving it.
Here's a picture of everything.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/909xbzdam8bhxkm/bobbins%20and%20winder%20counter.jpg?dl=0

Thanks, for all the input.

Still haven't find my reed switches, must be in the attic.
 
On 9/17/2019 1:48 PM, amdx wrote:
On 9/17/2019 12:15 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, 17 September 2019 15:11:55 UTC+1, amdx  wrote:
On 9/17/2019 7:16 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Chris Jones wrote:

---------------------


Personally, I would not immediately elect to use a reed switch for
this application.


** For a simple turns counter sensor - why ever not?

One reason: If you are no better at winding coils than I am, then
sometimes you will need to stop and reverse, to correct situations
where
the wire is not winding in the right place. With a simple reed
switch or
microswitch, the turns count will increase even as you unwind any
badly
wound turns, leading to an incorrect total.


** The OP has a drill press which, in my experience, do not reverse.

His counter shows the actual turns number and if in excess he has to
hand wind it back by so many turns.

Zeroing the counter first allows that job to be exact.


When I built a coil winder as a schoolkid, I used two slotted optical
sensors displaced by 90 degrees around the shaft, with a semicircular
flag mounted on the shaft. To count the turns I wrote my first
interrupt
service routine, in what was probably my first 6502 assembly code,
running on a BBC micro. This would keep a correct count of the turns
even if wound forwards and backwards as necessary to correct any
problems with the winding.

** If the OP added a second reed, he could do something like that too.

     I betcha he will not bother.

FYI:

   I answered the original question as posed, but my latest post(2
hrs ago)shows the micro-switch is not likely the cause of his issues.


....  Phil


     Yes Phil, you are mostly correct, I think the cause of malfunction
was the mounting. I mounted the bracket holding the micro switch to the
belt cover. I think there is to much vibration of the belt cover ass'y.
   As I said above, I'm going to go with my dc powered hand drill and
Variable power supply with foot switch.
   Re: my manilla paper bobbins, I jus did a couple of test pieces, I
coated one with polyurethane the other with fiberglas resin.
   I suspect the resin will be the best stiffener, but I'll know in
an hour.
    My pretty much yes or no question, turned into a rather long thread,
you stayed on point and actually measured a micro switch and answered
very specifically.   Thanks, Mikek

Layers of paper + resin makes a very tough sheet material.


NT

  Yes, the resin is by far the best of Hairspray, Wheat paste,
hairspray, Clear Krylon, and Polyurethane.
 I made the bobbins with Manila folder paper, elmers glued two pieces
for the end caps and put one layer of fiberglas resin over it. It's
stiff enough. In fact it's quite stiff.
  I have finished a working coil winder using my 14.4V dc drill,
microswitch and the Veeder-Root Model B 124806 (for Jeff). It is working
fine at all speeds, but I'll run it in first gear at a slightly reduced
voltage of 12V just to keep the counter happy. I did put a diode across
the coil. I have an on/off foot switch connected. It's a one job use
winder, so just cobbled together
 I'll add end caps to my bobbin jig when I wind the coils. Now all I
need to do is start winding. The counter clanks pretty loud, I'll need
to work before the wife goes to bed.
 I got to try out my Systron Donner 40V 15 amp power supply that was
given to me. It's got 10 turn pots for voltage and current limit adjust.
Model RS40-15B, Probably very old, very heavy, cut two fingers on the
heat sink moving it.
 Here's a picture of everything.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/909xbzdam8bhxkm/bobbins%20and%20winder%20counter.jpg?dl=0


                      Thanks, for all the input.

Still haven't find my reed switches, must be in the attic.

Finished coils.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/jzfkwod7nl03tlh/finished%20coils.jpg?dl=0

Thanks all, Mikek
 
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:
Phil Allison wrote:

Blah, blah, blah...

** Sounds like a sheep with a bad cold ...

Negative. That would sound more like... "blaaaaaaaah,
blaaaaaaaah, blaaaaaaah".

Surprising you wouldn't know that, given your intimate
relationship with the species.


Actually, yours is incorrect. It would not have the 'l' in it.

A sheep cannot articulate an l sound.

Hard to write out congested bronchial sounds as you try to also
convey a word.

** When you over analyse a joke like this, it pretty much ruins it...


...... Phil
 
On Tuesday, September 17, 2019 at 6:26:11 AM UTC-7, amdx wrote:

I may make another attempt, although I think I will use my battery
powered drill. Connecting it to a variable power supply through a foot
switch. Running my drill press at 330 RPMs...

I've spent a few hours with a coil winder (old type, with a variac)
and the easy way to do it nowadays is to get a stepper motor,
and display with a microprocessor system of some sort. It
wouldn't take much ( a stamp Arduino).

Four power transistors to drive a six-wire stepper, software to
accelerate/decelerate and give continuous speed control (handy
when the wire tension has to be managed) and make the turns count
a presettable quantity. Go ahead and wire a potentiometer to a
voltage-converting input for the speed adjust, and a second pot
can set the terminal count (just use a few zoned voltages; midpoint
it locks, half-CW it upticks slow, full-CW it upticks fast... like setting
an alarm clock).

Two-line alphanumeric display for status won't take many IO lines.

Probably some hobbyist has already done it, and there's a 'sketch'.

Yep, sure enough:
<http://www.bristolwatch.com/radio/arduino_coil_winder.htm>

For extra points, sacrifice a thrift-store battery drill to get gears and a
chuck for the drive end.
 
Robert Baer wrote:
-------------------
I am guessing that a microswitch is limited by its mechanical
construction, just like a relay (in region of 100mSec), so microswitch
is probably speed limited in the region of 30mSec at best.

.

** See what happens when you "plonk" a serious poster.
------------------------------------------------------

** I just tried a common micro-switch, the kind with a metal actuator and small wheel on the end.

" Cherry Elect. E33 10A 1/2HP 125-250VAC "

With a battery powered drill and using the small bumps on the rubber grip around the chuck to move the actuator up and down - I easily got it to operate at over 60Hz.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

..... Phil
 
Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sun, 15 Sep 2019 18:45:05 -0500, amdx wrote:

I wanted to make a turns counter for my drill press.
I have it set for 330 RPMs or about 6 cycles per second.
It doesn't work. Unreliable counting.
My high point is (switch closure time) about 1/12 of the rotation, I
wonder if I did a 50/50 duty cycle if it would be better.

Or, is expecting the switch to operate at 6Hz just to fast for a
standard microswitch?

Mikek

Why not use a hall-effect instead? Or laser and photo-diode with a small
mirror stuck to the side of the quill? I don't see a microswitch as being
suitable for this application.



Abs-so-toovely.
 

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