Driving LEDs with a battery pack

On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:46:00 +1200, greg <greg@cosc.canterbury.ac.nz>
wrote:

Jon Kirwan wrote:

During this time, the Vce
rises, too. As that happens, the induced voltage on the base winding
declines due to a falling rate of flux change.

Interesting -- there appear to be more subtle things
going on in this circuit than I thought!
Actually, it's a beautiful piece of work. The Joules per unit time
(power) is independent of the inductance of the transformer, so you
don't mess things up if you wind it too many times or too few. All
that affects is the frequency of operation. A simple resistor sets
the power. Just a very few components, too. It's sweet.

But it seems like saturation would have much the same
effect -- the flux suddenly stops rising, causing the
base voltage to fall to the point where transistor
can't sustain the current and a flip-over occurs.
The point is that saturation isn't required and will actually waste
power. So I think that saturation would be a problem, actually.

Assume the collector winding saturates the core. This happens as Ic
is rising on a V/L ramp and, for purposes you are putting it to,
occurs by definition well __before__ Ic/Ib gets anywhere near the beta
limit of the BJT. So let's say this happens when Ib=Ic, just to keep
it easy. So the BJT is in deep saturation, still. And the core
suddenly decides "that's it, I'm tapped out!" At that point, it isn't
the BJT, but the core that decides the voltage across it must cease.
So the collector winding voltage goes to zero, suddenly, which means
Vce on the BJT suddenly rises to the fully battery voltage -- meaning
VERY BAD dissipation. You are right. The base winding also goes to
zero volts and the base current takes a hit. But it goes to about 1/2
the earlier value. Since Ic doesn't change, but only Vce did, the
beta is now 2. Which means the BJT can still support the Ic required
(which hasn't yet changed -- the collector winding is zero volts, not
negative, just the Vce has jumped up.)

At this point, we see the BJT with beta 2 (which is still deep
saturation) and a base current that is 1/2 of what it just was but is
still well more than enough. So the BJT's Vce times Ic gets
dissipated by the BJT, which is now heating up big-time. (Beta
capability actually rises with temperature increases, memory serving.)

If inductors were perfect (superconducting?), I suspect things would
just sit there with beta=2, the BJT heating up until it reaches some
stable point, Ic remaining fixed, Ib remaining fixed, and that would
be that. But the resistance in the inductor is instead gradually
(slowly) eating up the field's energy, causing a voltage reversal...
probably on the order of timing less than a second but not nearly at
the design frequency rate. This opposes the battery voltage to the
base, of course, and the whole thing does wind down. But I suspect
that saturation is NOT a good thing here because of all this. In
other words, it is not "a friend" to the process. It's to be avoided.

But I've only two or three weeks ago started studying magnetics design
for the first time. And I may have something wrong. But that's the
way it looks to me.

So the circuit will still work if saturation occurs,
just in a slightly different mode.
I think in a profoundly different mode. But yes.

It might even work slightly better in that mode, if
it causes the transistor to cut off more sharply.
I don't think so. Read what I wrote and see if you can find fault
with it. I'm curious about learning this stuff better.

In any case, it seems like it would operate more
predictably, since the period and maximum current
would depend on the saturation flux of the core
rather than some rather uncertain transistor parameters.
Well, I didn't take your starting point so conclusions from it still
don't flow from it, for me.

If you just pick some random transistor, then it's only
by luck that you avoid overdriving the LED.
Seems like a rather hairy way to design a circuit to me!
Actually, I think it is an incredible arrangement.

Look. You can design this entirely with the idea of just knowing how
much current on the other end you require. Knowing the current, you
can compute the peak current you want in the collector winding. It is
just:

Ipeak = Iout*[2*(Vout+Vd-Vceon)/(Vbattery-Vceon)]

(These assume that diode I suggested to the OP, so Vd is the forward
voltage of it during BJT-off times. Vceon and Vceoff will be rough
numbers used and aren't all that critical. I use Vceon=0.1 [as an
average value between 0.0V and 0.2V during on-time] and use Vceoff of
between 0.4V and 0.7V depending on just how big Ic happens to be.)

Notice that there is no inductance here, no base resistor value, etc.
There is a pure number ratio (bracketed) times the desired Iout. Very
simple and independent of a lot of stuff you don't want to have to
worry about. This makes design easy.

Then, you compute the inductance of the collector winding. At this
point, you need to know some idea about the desired frequency. The
beauty of this is that you can now worry about volt-seconds and that
saturation problem. To avoid volt-second problems, choose a faster
frequency. The frequency will have NO effect on the power/Iout that
is delivered. You get to choose it independently and not worry about
its effects on Iout. Wonderful, for designing. So to avoid huge
volt-second figures, pick a frequency that is high. But to avoid
dealing with BJT capacitance and charge mobility issues, choose a
frequency that is low. Between these is a nice region in the tens of
kHz... so I like 50kHz as a good place to be. At this point, compute
L:
(Vbattery-Vceon)*(Vout+Vd-Vbattery)
L = -------------------------------------
(Vout+Vbattery-Vceon)*Ipeak*frequency

At this point, Rbase can also be calculated:

Rbase = beta*[N*(Vbattery-Vceoff)+Vbattery-Vbeon]/Ipeak

Here, N is the winding ratio, with higher values occuring when the
base winding has more turns. Normally, N=1. Also, beta is selected
from the datasheet at the value for Ic=Ipeak, roughly. Also, Vbeon is
picked up from the datasheet (or estimated.)

Your peak base current isn't simply the Ipeak divided by the chosen
beta, here. It's more like:

Ibaseavg = [N*(Vbattery-Vceon)+Vbattery-Vbeon]/Rbase

Rbase is determined using a higher Vceoff calculation because the
value of beta won't apply well, if applied using the lower Vceon.

Another thought: For driving several LEDs in series,
maybe it would help to use a separate secondary winding
with more turns for the output. That would give a
current step-down relative to the transistor current
and allow the output duty cycle to be increased for
the same output current.
But with the freewheeling diode and a capacitor, there is no need. And
that arrangement provides a nice smooth current. The issue with
pulsing is that the LED voltages rise with high currents flowing and
this wastes energy uselessly. What the diodes really want is a steady
DC at the right level, not huge pulses of current. Best efficiency is
not necessarily at the nominal current for the LEDs, but it usually
isn't too far from it. Pulsing with duty cycles not unlike 1:10 means
10-fold current increases and that is way past their efficiency curve
peak. It wastes power. I think the diode/cap almost suggests itself.

E.g. suppose you have 4 LEDS in series and want to
drive them at 20mA max. If you use a 4:1 turns ratio
and arrange things so that the primary charges up
to 80mA over an on-time of t, it will then deliver
20mA initially to the secondary, ramping down to 0
over a time of 4t before the stored energy runs out.
So the LEDs are driven at a duty cycle of 80%.

In contrast, without the current step-down, the peak
transistor current has to be limited to the maximum LED
current, and the LED duty cycle falls in proportion to
the number of LEDs -- which means you can never get more
light out of series LEDs than you could from a single LED.

Does any of that make sense?
On the surface, it seems easier and better to just add a diode and cap
than to wind another winding in a tiny bead.

Jon
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 04:04:22 -0700 (PDT), fungus
<openglMYSOCKS@artlum.com> wrote:

On Jul 11, 4:19 am, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:

Electrolytic for cheapness, don't shop if you don't have to....


There's dozens of capacitors within easy reach but they're
all soldered to PCBs and only have 1mm legs... :-(
1mm!!!! Can't you just desolder them out of their through holes? I
get enough lead length for utility even when they are smack flush with
the board!

Jon
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:23:55 -0700 (PDT), fungus
<openglMYSOCKS@artlum.com> wrote:

On Jul 11, 1:15 pm, fungus <openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:

What part of the PC? If it was somewhere in the
power supply, it's probably okay.


I was just re-reading the original web page and it says
"Don't use anything other than plain cheap vanilla ferrite,
since any other type will reduce efficiency."

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/joule.htm
I hadn't read this, but I think I've at least alluded to it in posts
on this thread. The problem, if I got it right, is energy storage.
Ferrites have little tiny air gaps (okay, not air, but about the same
in effect) between granules with iron in them. The energy gets stored
there, in the gaps, for release when the BJT turns off. Straight iron
cores won't store anything much. So bad news. The other desirable
effect, though, is the voltage aiding impact of the base winding. For
that, iron core would be great. But there isn't that much need for
power transfer to the base, just voltage mostly, so ferrite works
great here for that reason AND does the main job of storing energy in
the gaps. If I got it right, of course.

By the way, now you can see just how tiny it can be!

Jon
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 12:02:37 -0700 (PDT), fungus
<openglMYSOCKS@artlum.com> wrote:

On Jul 11, 8:08 pm, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:

There's dozens of capacitors within easy reach but they're
all soldered to PCBs and only have 1mm legs...   :-(

1mm!!!!  Can't you just desolder them out of their through holes?  I
get enough lead length for utility even when they are smack flush with
the board!


Ok, I made the "1mm" up but they're only going to be as
long as the thickness of the PCB.
I'm looking at one I __just__ removed (I've got two TV set boards
siting in a box waiting for harvesting.) It's long enough to solder
to. And it is free!

Jon
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 12:59:42 -0700 (PDT), fungus
<openglMYSOCKS@artlum.com> wrote:

On Jul 11, 8:40 pm, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:23:55 -0700 (PDT), fungus

openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:
On Jul 11, 1:15 pm, fungus <openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:

What part of the PC? If it was somewhere in the
power supply, it's probably okay.

I was just re-reading the original web

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/joule.htm

I hadn't read this, but I think I've at least alluded to it in posts
on this thread.

That's the page you get if you type "joule thief" into google.
I think I'd read it some time back, as well.

 iron core would be great.  But there isn't that much need for
power transfer to the base, just voltage mostly, so ferrite works
great

So really he's not saying "use ferrite", he's saying "don't use
iron"?
I guess so. Iron switches alignments really easy (low reluctance.)
Since it is easy to do, no energy gets used to do it and there's no
energy there to be had later on. What it is really good for is
passing along those flux changes rigidly so that power is transferred
without losing much along the way. They make GREAT transformers --
especially at lower frequencies before their electrical conductance
(low resistance along with low reluctance) allows eddy currents to
become a problem. They "transfer" power efficiently. However, while
you DO want a voltage to show up on the base winding and while iron
would do that for you really well, it doesn't _also_ store energy for
you. So when the BJT turns off and the collector winding is supposed
to be delivering energy to your LEDs from all that "stored energy"
somewhere... there won't be any because the iron didn't store it for
you. It just tried to transfer it, had the base winding create a
reverse flux change to oppose it, a tiny bit of power got transferred
to the base in order to add some current there (but not much), and
nothing got packed away because iron doesn't store up anything. On
the other hand, ferrite has these air-like gaps in it and while it
isn't as good as iron at transferring power to the base winding, you
don't need it to be that good. What you need is some nooks and
crannies to store up energy and the ferrite will do that for you.
Also, because there isn't much of an electrical connection between
granules with iron in them in the ferrite (isolated by the 'glue' so
to speak), eddy currents can't really flow much so they are really
good at higher frequencies where that could become a problem. For
this situation, ferrite is a very nice fit on every score.

I just found something about the circuit which is confusing
the hell out of me. I mentioned it yesterday but nobody
spotted the problem...

If I measure the current going through the LEDs it says
102mA, but... they're connected in series so shouldn't
it say "20mA"?
It's probably right. (Unless you are averaging.) You should be
seeing high peak currents in there. But only for a short part of a
total duty cycle. Are you averaging?

I assume it's not really 102mA because the LEDs aren't
dead, the signal is flat DC thanks to the capacitor/diode
so what's going on?
I think it really _is_ 102mA, but only for part of the time. That
allows the LEDs to cool down in between times and your eyes perceive
the average value not the peak -- at these rates, anyway.

Jon
 
On Jul 11, 1:15 pm, fungus <openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:
What part of the PC? If it was somewhere in the
power supply, it's probably okay.
I was just re-reading the original web page and it says
"Don't use anything other than plain cheap vanilla ferrite,
since any other type will reduce efficiency."

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/joule.htm
 
On Jul 11, 2:21 pm, default <defa...@defaulter.net> wrote:
I'm very happy with the tricolor leds I got for a project.  I'm using
them for power indicators and the wide beam lets me see them from
anywhere in the room with any ambient light level.
I just ordered a bunch of them from him - the specs are
way better then the ones I've got here.
 
Jon Kirwan wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:46:00 +1200, greg <greg@cosc.canterbury.ac.nz
wrote:


Jon Kirwan wrote:


During this time, the Vce
rises, too. As that happens, the induced voltage on the base winding
declines due to a falling rate of flux change.

Interesting -- there appear to be more subtle things
going on in this circuit than I thought!


Actually, it's a beautiful piece of work. The Joules per unit time
(power) is independent of the inductance of the transformer, so you
don't mess things up if you wind it too many times or too few. All
that affects is the frequency of operation. A simple resistor sets
the power. Just a very few components, too. It's sweet.


But it seems like saturation would have much the same
effect -- the flux suddenly stops rising, causing the
base voltage to fall to the point where transistor
can't sustain the current and a flip-over occurs.


The point is that saturation isn't required and will actually waste
power. So I think that saturation would be a problem, actually.

Assume the collector winding saturates the core. This happens as Ic
is rising on a V/L ramp and, for purposes you are putting it to,
occurs by definition well __before__ Ic/Ib gets anywhere near the beta
limit of the BJT. So let's say this happens when Ib=Ic, just to keep
it easy. So the BJT is in deep saturation, still. And the core
suddenly decides "that's it, I'm tapped out!" At that point, it isn't
the BJT, but the core that decides the voltage across it must cease.
So the collector winding voltage goes to zero, suddenly, which means
Vce on the BJT suddenly rises to the fully battery voltage -- meaning
VERY BAD dissipation. You are right. The base winding also goes to
zero volts and the base current takes a hit. But it goes to about 1/2
the earlier value. Since Ic doesn't change, but only Vce did, the
beta is now 2. Which means the BJT can still support the Ic required
(which hasn't yet changed -- the collector winding is zero volts, not
negative, just the Vce has jumped up.)

At this point, we see the BJT with beta 2 (which is still deep
saturation) and a base current that is 1/2 of what it just was but is
still well more than enough. So the BJT's Vce times Ic gets
dissipated by the BJT, which is now heating up big-time. (Beta
capability actually rises with temperature increases, memory serving.)

If inductors were perfect (superconducting?), I suspect things would
just sit there with beta=2, the BJT heating up until it reaches some
stable point, Ic remaining fixed, Ib remaining fixed, and that would
be that. But the resistance in the inductor is instead gradually
(slowly) eating up the field's energy, causing a voltage reversal...
probably on the order of timing less than a second but not nearly at
the design frequency rate. This opposes the battery voltage to the
base, of course, and the whole thing does wind down. But I suspect
that saturation is NOT a good thing here because of all this. In
other words, it is not "a friend" to the process. It's to be avoided.

But I've only two or three weeks ago started studying magnetics design
for the first time. And I may have something wrong. But that's the
way it looks to me.


So the circuit will still work if saturation occurs,
just in a slightly different mode.


I think in a profoundly different mode. But yes.


It might even work slightly better in that mode, if
it causes the transistor to cut off more sharply.


I don't think so. Read what I wrote and see if you can find fault
with it. I'm curious about learning this stuff better.


In any case, it seems like it would operate more
predictably, since the period and maximum current
would depend on the saturation flux of the core
rather than some rather uncertain transistor parameters.


Well, I didn't take your starting point so conclusions from it still
don't flow from it, for me.


If you just pick some random transistor, then it's only
by luck that you avoid overdriving the LED.
Seems like a rather hairy way to design a circuit to me!


Actually, I think it is an incredible arrangement.

Look. You can design this entirely with the idea of just knowing how
much current on the other end you require. Knowing the current, you
can compute the peak current you want in the collector winding. It is
just:

Ipeak = Iout*[2*(Vout+Vd-Vceon)/(Vbattery-Vceon)]

(These assume that diode I suggested to the OP, so Vd is the forward
voltage of it during BJT-off times. Vceon and Vceoff will be rough
numbers used and aren't all that critical. I use Vceon=0.1 [as an
average value between 0.0V and 0.2V during on-time] and use Vceoff of
between 0.4V and 0.7V depending on just how big Ic happens to be.)

Notice that there is no inductance here, no base resistor value, etc.
There is a pure number ratio (bracketed) times the desired Iout. Very
simple and independent of a lot of stuff you don't want to have to
worry about. This makes design easy.

Then, you compute the inductance of the collector winding. At this
point, you need to know some idea about the desired frequency. The
beauty of this is that you can now worry about volt-seconds and that
saturation problem. To avoid volt-second problems, choose a faster
frequency. The frequency will have NO effect on the power/Iout that
is delivered. You get to choose it independently and not worry about
its effects on Iout. Wonderful, for designing. So to avoid huge
volt-second figures, pick a frequency that is high. But to avoid
dealing with BJT capacitance and charge mobility issues, choose a
frequency that is low. Between these is a nice region in the tens of
kHz... so I like 50kHz as a good place to be. At this point, compute
L:
(Vbattery-Vceon)*(Vout+Vd-Vbattery)
L = -------------------------------------
(Vout+Vbattery-Vceon)*Ipeak*frequency

At this point, Rbase can also be calculated:

Rbase = beta*[N*(Vbattery-Vceoff)+Vbattery-Vbeon]/Ipeak

Here, N is the winding ratio, with higher values occuring when the
base winding has more turns. Normally, N=1. Also, beta is selected
from the datasheet at the value for Ic=Ipeak, roughly. Also, Vbeon is
picked up from the datasheet (or estimated.)

Your peak base current isn't simply the Ipeak divided by the chosen
beta, here. It's more like:

Ibaseavg = [N*(Vbattery-Vceon)+Vbattery-Vbeon]/Rbase

Rbase is determined using a higher Vceoff calculation because the
value of beta won't apply well, if applied using the lower Vceon.


Another thought: For driving several LEDs in series,
maybe it would help to use a separate secondary winding
with more turns for the output. That would give a
current step-down relative to the transistor current
and allow the output duty cycle to be increased for
the same output current.


But with the freewheeling diode and a capacitor, there is no need. And
that arrangement provides a nice smooth current. The issue with
pulsing is that the LED voltages rise with high currents flowing and
this wastes energy uselessly. What the diodes really want is a steady
DC at the right level, not huge pulses of current. Best efficiency is
not necessarily at the nominal current for the LEDs, but it usually
isn't too far from it. Pulsing with duty cycles not unlike 1:10 means
10-fold current increases and that is way past their efficiency curve
peak. It wastes power. I think the diode/cap almost suggests itself.


E.g. suppose you have 4 LEDS in series and want to
drive them at 20mA max. If you use a 4:1 turns ratio
and arrange things so that the primary charges up
to 80mA over an on-time of t, it will then deliver
20mA initially to the secondary, ramping down to 0
over a time of 4t before the stored energy runs out.
So the LEDs are driven at a duty cycle of 80%.

In contrast, without the current step-down, the peak
transistor current has to be limited to the maximum LED
current, and the LED duty cycle falls in proportion to
the number of LEDs -- which means you can never get more
light out of series LEDs than you could from a single LED.

Does any of that make sense?


On the surface, it seems easier and better to just add a diode and cap
than to wind another winding in a tiny bead.

Jon
My recollection of messing with the joule thief a few
years ago was that it is transistor saturation, not
core saturation, and that Vbatt is the key. In essence,
the base wants to drive the transistor harder, the transistor
is capable, but Vbatt prevents any further increase in Ic.

BTW - I made one using an air core (we can eliminate core
saturation from that one), and several using ferrite cores
where core sat was perhaps possible. But again, my recollection
is that it was transistor saturation due to the low battery
voltage. I suppose that may be too simplistic - you could get
into the Vdrop within the battery's internal resistance (Rbatt)
and Rbatt limiting the current through the coil ...

Ed
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 20:50:17 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@NOSPAMverizon.net>
wrote:

Jon Kirwan wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 22:46:00 +1200, greg <greg@cosc.canterbury.ac.nz
wrote:


Jon Kirwan wrote:


During this time, the Vce
rises, too. As that happens, the induced voltage on the base winding
declines due to a falling rate of flux change.

Interesting -- there appear to be more subtle things
going on in this circuit than I thought!


Actually, it's a beautiful piece of work. The Joules per unit time
(power) is independent of the inductance of the transformer, so you
don't mess things up if you wind it too many times or too few. All
that affects is the frequency of operation. A simple resistor sets
the power. Just a very few components, too. It's sweet.


But it seems like saturation would have much the same
effect -- the flux suddenly stops rising, causing the
base voltage to fall to the point where transistor
can't sustain the current and a flip-over occurs.


The point is that saturation isn't required and will actually waste
power. So I think that saturation would be a problem, actually.

Assume the collector winding saturates the core. This happens as Ic
is rising on a V/L ramp and, for purposes you are putting it to,
occurs by definition well __before__ Ic/Ib gets anywhere near the beta
limit of the BJT. So let's say this happens when Ib=Ic, just to keep
it easy. So the BJT is in deep saturation, still. And the core
suddenly decides "that's it, I'm tapped out!" At that point, it isn't
the BJT, but the core that decides the voltage across it must cease.
So the collector winding voltage goes to zero, suddenly, which means
Vce on the BJT suddenly rises to the fully battery voltage -- meaning
VERY BAD dissipation. You are right. The base winding also goes to
zero volts and the base current takes a hit. But it goes to about 1/2
the earlier value. Since Ic doesn't change, but only Vce did, the
beta is now 2. Which means the BJT can still support the Ic required
(which hasn't yet changed -- the collector winding is zero volts, not
negative, just the Vce has jumped up.)

At this point, we see the BJT with beta 2 (which is still deep
saturation) and a base current that is 1/2 of what it just was but is
still well more than enough. So the BJT's Vce times Ic gets
dissipated by the BJT, which is now heating up big-time. (Beta
capability actually rises with temperature increases, memory serving.)

If inductors were perfect (superconducting?), I suspect things would
just sit there with beta=2, the BJT heating up until it reaches some
stable point, Ic remaining fixed, Ib remaining fixed, and that would
be that. But the resistance in the inductor is instead gradually
(slowly) eating up the field's energy, causing a voltage reversal...
probably on the order of timing less than a second but not nearly at
the design frequency rate. This opposes the battery voltage to the
base, of course, and the whole thing does wind down. But I suspect
that saturation is NOT a good thing here because of all this. In
other words, it is not "a friend" to the process. It's to be avoided.

But I've only two or three weeks ago started studying magnetics design
for the first time. And I may have something wrong. But that's the
way it looks to me.


So the circuit will still work if saturation occurs,
just in a slightly different mode.


I think in a profoundly different mode. But yes.


It might even work slightly better in that mode, if
it causes the transistor to cut off more sharply.


I don't think so. Read what I wrote and see if you can find fault
with it. I'm curious about learning this stuff better.


In any case, it seems like it would operate more
predictably, since the period and maximum current
would depend on the saturation flux of the core
rather than some rather uncertain transistor parameters.


Well, I didn't take your starting point so conclusions from it still
don't flow from it, for me.


If you just pick some random transistor, then it's only
by luck that you avoid overdriving the LED.
Seems like a rather hairy way to design a circuit to me!


Actually, I think it is an incredible arrangement.

Look. You can design this entirely with the idea of just knowing how
much current on the other end you require. Knowing the current, you
can compute the peak current you want in the collector winding. It is
just:

Ipeak = Iout*[2*(Vout+Vd-Vceon)/(Vbattery-Vceon)]

(These assume that diode I suggested to the OP, so Vd is the forward
voltage of it during BJT-off times. Vceon and Vceoff will be rough
numbers used and aren't all that critical. I use Vceon=0.1 [as an
average value between 0.0V and 0.2V during on-time] and use Vceoff of
between 0.4V and 0.7V depending on just how big Ic happens to be.)

Notice that there is no inductance here, no base resistor value, etc.
There is a pure number ratio (bracketed) times the desired Iout. Very
simple and independent of a lot of stuff you don't want to have to
worry about. This makes design easy.

Then, you compute the inductance of the collector winding. At this
point, you need to know some idea about the desired frequency. The
beauty of this is that you can now worry about volt-seconds and that
saturation problem. To avoid volt-second problems, choose a faster
frequency. The frequency will have NO effect on the power/Iout that
is delivered. You get to choose it independently and not worry about
its effects on Iout. Wonderful, for designing. So to avoid huge
volt-second figures, pick a frequency that is high. But to avoid
dealing with BJT capacitance and charge mobility issues, choose a
frequency that is low. Between these is a nice region in the tens of
kHz... so I like 50kHz as a good place to be. At this point, compute
L:
(Vbattery-Vceon)*(Vout+Vd-Vbattery)
L = -------------------------------------
(Vout+Vbattery-Vceon)*Ipeak*frequency

At this point, Rbase can also be calculated:

Rbase = beta*[N*(Vbattery-Vceoff)+Vbattery-Vbeon]/Ipeak

Here, N is the winding ratio, with higher values occuring when the
base winding has more turns. Normally, N=1. Also, beta is selected
from the datasheet at the value for Ic=Ipeak, roughly. Also, Vbeon is
picked up from the datasheet (or estimated.)

Your peak base current isn't simply the Ipeak divided by the chosen
beta, here. It's more like:

Ibaseavg = [N*(Vbattery-Vceon)+Vbattery-Vbeon]/Rbase

Rbase is determined using a higher Vceoff calculation because the
value of beta won't apply well, if applied using the lower Vceon.


Another thought: For driving several LEDs in series,
maybe it would help to use a separate secondary winding
with more turns for the output. That would give a
current step-down relative to the transistor current
and allow the output duty cycle to be increased for
the same output current.


But with the freewheeling diode and a capacitor, there is no need. And
that arrangement provides a nice smooth current. The issue with
pulsing is that the LED voltages rise with high currents flowing and
this wastes energy uselessly. What the diodes really want is a steady
DC at the right level, not huge pulses of current. Best efficiency is
not necessarily at the nominal current for the LEDs, but it usually
isn't too far from it. Pulsing with duty cycles not unlike 1:10 means
10-fold current increases and that is way past their efficiency curve
peak. It wastes power. I think the diode/cap almost suggests itself.


E.g. suppose you have 4 LEDS in series and want to
drive them at 20mA max. If you use a 4:1 turns ratio
and arrange things so that the primary charges up
to 80mA over an on-time of t, it will then deliver
20mA initially to the secondary, ramping down to 0
over a time of 4t before the stored energy runs out.
So the LEDs are driven at a duty cycle of 80%.

In contrast, without the current step-down, the peak
transistor current has to be limited to the maximum LED
current, and the LED duty cycle falls in proportion to
the number of LEDs -- which means you can never get more
light out of series LEDs than you could from a single LED.

Does any of that make sense?


On the surface, it seems easier and better to just add a diode and cap
than to wind another winding in a tiny bead.

Jon

My recollection of messing with the joule thief a few
years ago was that it is transistor saturation, not
core saturation, and that Vbatt is the key.
Which is ALL I've been saying here. That's why I disagree with greg
on this.

In essence,
the base wants to drive the transistor harder, the transistor
is capable, but Vbatt prevents any further increase in Ic.
Actually, Ic rises until Ic/Ib exceeds the BJT beta at that Ic.

BTW - I made one using an air core (we can eliminate core
saturation from that one), and several using ferrite cores
where core sat was perhaps possible. But again, my recollection
is that it was transistor saturation due to the low battery
voltage. I suppose that may be too simplistic - you could get
into the Vdrop within the battery's internal resistance (Rbatt)
and Rbatt limiting the current through the coil ...
If you read some of my longer postings here (it seems you have not),
you will see a VERY DETAILED description. Not to mention the
equations I've provided. So I have a pretty thorough understanding
I'm applying here.

Jon
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 20:50:17 GMT, ehsjr <ehsjr@NOSPAMverizon.net>
wrote:

snip
BTW - I made one using an air core (we can eliminate core
saturation from that one)
snip
Do you remember how many windings, roughly, you used then?

Jon
 
fungus wrote:
On Jul 10, 7:05 pm, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:

Okay. Here's another shot at the general idea.

What you need to add is C1, R2 (not strictly necessary, I just added
it so you could play with some values there), and D8. Some folks may
recommend a schottky diode for that, because they present a somewhat
lower voltage and they switch fast. But probably you can use what you
have available.



I added D8 and a big scary electrolytic capacitor* I found
in my box at C1 (I don't exactly have a big selection of
components to play with and that's the only capacitor
which looked likely to do anything...)

The capacitor adds a cool effect - the LEDs fade up/down
when I switch the thing on/off.

But ... it works! I think I'm pretty much at full brightness
with the capacitor in there.

Looking on the scope, the voltage at the first diode is
perfectly flat (to be expected).

Best of all ... I measured the output current and with 4.2V
input it was 106mA for six LEDs, that's an average of 17.6mA
each - right on target.
Uhhh - if your LEDs are in series, that is 106mA through
each of them.
In the unlikely case they are in parallel, you have to measure
the current through each one individually - they do not
necessarily conduct the same amount of current. And if
they need to be in parallel, each should have its own
current limiting resistor (or some other means of controlling
the current).

That aside, I'm glad to hear you got good results with
your joule thief!

Ed


With some half-depleted batteries I got 104mA across the
LEDs from 3.8V input.

With two half-depleted batteries I got 70mA from 2.5V
- still quite respectable.



Oh, and D7!! I added that to protect your Q1 base-emitter from
reverse voltages. That will help protect your poor BJT.



I'll be thinking of him...


If you try this, let me know what happens!



So far so good... now I want to work on the size of the
ferrite bead (I want this to fit in a more discrete package).


[*] Electrolytic capacitors always make me nervous...
 
On Jul 11, 8:08 pm, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:
There's dozens of capacitors within easy reach but they're
all soldered to PCBs and only have 1mm legs...   :-(

1mm!!!!  Can't you just desolder them out of their through holes?  I
get enough lead length for utility even when they are smack flush with
the board!
Ok, I made the "1mm" up but they're only going to be as
long as the thickness of the PCB.
 
Jon Kirwan wrote:

On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:31:50 +1200, greg <greg@cosc.canterbury.ac.nz
wrote:

Jon Kirwan wrote:

But that may actually be because of saturation in the core,
itself. It turns out that it is the area underneath your volt curve
(volt-seconds, Webers, etc.) that saturate the core. With low
frequencies, the applied voltage hangs around longer and therefore
the
volt-seconds goes up. That's bad, mostly because at some point the
whole thing just stops accepting any more volt-seconds and to fix
that the voltage goes to zero (and this means your transistor gets
the entire voltage applied to it and that makes it very hot if it
stays ON for long.)

Hang on a moment -- unless I'm mistaken, this type of
circuit *relies* on saturation of the core for its
operation.

I think you _are_ mistaken.

As soon as saturation occurs, the transistor turns off.

No. Saturation of the core isn't required. This would work on an air
core transformer, I believe.

....

The base current starts out unaided by any induced voltage on the base
winding, but still turns the BJT on. Once that happens, though, the
collector drops immediately to near zero (there is no collector
winding current to speak of, at that point.) This places a near-fixed
voltage across the collector winding, which allows the collector
current to rise according to V/L. Almost from the first moment this
takes place, there is an induced voltage in the base winding due to
the rate of flux change on the collector winding which adds to the
battery voltage (if wired with the correct orientation, of course) and
this increases the base current to it's initially 'highish' value of
(2*V_bat-Vbe)/R.

At first, the Vce of the BJT remains very close to zero because the
Ic/Ib is well below 10. (The BJT is severely saturated.) But as Ic
rises along the ramp of V/L, while at the same time Ib remains close
to fixed, it eventually reaches the point where Ic/Ib goes over 1,
then goes over 10, then goes over 20, etc. During this time, the Vce
rises, too. As that happens, the induced voltage on the base winding
declines due to a falling rate of flux change. That reduces the base
current, but does so exactly at the point when higher Ic requires
more, not less, Ib. In other words, the aiding voltage by the base
winding is falling and _reducing_ base current right at the point
where Vce is rising and reducing the voltage across the collector
winding.

Suddenly, the beta just isn't enough and the BJT attempts to reduce
Ic. As soon as it 'tries' to do that, though, the collector winding
immediately responds by reversing its polarity as the only possible
response to allow a reduction in Ic (V/L must reverse its sign.) But
that immediately causes the base winding to also reverse its polarity
and __oppose__ the battery voltage that is struggling to drive current
into the base. The whole thing collapses with the battery voltage
opposed by an overwhelming reverse polarity, base current goes to
zero, base voltage goes below ground, etc. The BJT is off at this
point.

After the collector winding reverses voltage, current is driven now
through the LED as the reversed-sign V/L allows the current through it
to decline along a ramp (the LED maintains a fairly fixed, but
gradually declining V/L.) At some point, the LED is no longer able to
accept much current (non-linear decline, as well) and the collector
winding's field entirely collapses and has no energy remaining. It's
voltage goes to zero, so does the induced voltage on the base winding,
the battery is now able to generate some current into the base of the
BJT, the BJT turns back on, a voltage is applied to the collector
winding, the collector winding induces a renewed aiding voltage on the
base winding, the base current rises a bit, and the whole cycle
repeats.

No saturation of a core invoked here.

So saturation isn't bad, it's necessary! The only
question is how long you want to let the inductance
charge up before it occurs.

But I disagree. And, it appears, so does LTSpice where I don't have
to add any saturation effects to get it to oscillate just fine.

Hope that helps. Or, if you find good fault with my reasoning, it
will help me. Either way, it's all good.

Jon
FWIW It will work with an air core ! I tried parallel bifilar turns on
a small (5mm) tube ! It oscillated, but only without a load. A pile
wound bifilar pair worked much better. Putting in a ferrite core
vastly improved the output.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
fungus wrote:

On Jul 11, 11:40 am, greg <g...@cosc.canterbury.ac.nz> wrote:

Also, do you know what kind of ferrite your ring is
made of?
No idea, sorry. I pulled it out of a junker PC.

What part of the PC? If it was somewhere in the
power supply, it's probably okay.


Wasn't from the PSU. I just opened a PSU and
pulled a couple of smaller ones out. They're made
of blue ceramic or something and they stick a lot
harder to a magnet than my big one does. I'll give
them a try when I can get some better wire.
The colour is just paint !

PS: Hard disk magnets ... crazy strong. I nearly
lost a finger.
Arn't they just ! Very very useful.
Try passing coins between a pair. You might note something
interesting !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
On Jul 11, 8:40 pm, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:23:55 -0700 (PDT), fungus

openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:
On Jul 11, 1:15 pm, fungus <openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:

What part of the PC? If it was somewhere in the
power supply, it's probably okay.

I was just re-reading the original web

http://www.emanator.demon.co.uk/bigclive/joule.htm

I hadn't read this, but I think I've at least alluded to it in posts
on this thread.
That's the page you get if you type "joule thief" into google.

 iron core would be great.  But there isn't that much need for
power transfer to the base, just voltage mostly, so ferrite works
great
So really he's not saying "use ferrite", he's saying "don't use
iron"?

I just found something about the circuit which is confusing
the hell out of me. I mentioned it yesterday but nobody
spotted the problem...

If I measure the current going through the LEDs it says
102mA, but... they're connected in series so shouldn't
it say "20mA"?

I assume it's not really 102mA because the LEDs aren't
dead, the signal is flat DC thanks to the capacitor/diode
so what's going on?
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 14:11:14 -0700 (PDT), fungus
<openglMYSOCKS@artlum.com> wrote:

On Jul 11, 11:04 pm, fungus <openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:

What about "iron powder" beads.

This page seems to explain the difference but I can't decide
if it's better or worse for a joule thief.

http://www.bytemark.com/products/powercon.htm
I'd stay away from iron powder and stay with ferrite ('iron oxide.')
Not because I know why, though. I'd like to hear someone who knows
this stuff talk about the two options in this case. I'd learn
something.

My mind thinks "um, how much effective air gap is there in iron powder
cores?" But the permeability seems lower than ferrite and they are
often used in very high frequency cases. So that makes me think the
granules must be isolated and that there must be significant energy
storage available in them. But I just plain don't know.

So you really do raise a good point for me. I feel unable to give any
useful thoughts on this point. I'm still learning, too.

Jon
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 14:59:50 -0700, I wrote:

snip of Q of powdered iron vs ferrite
So you really do raise a good point for me. I feel unable to give any
useful thoughts on this point. I'm still learning, too.
Here's a link:
http://powerelectronics.com/mag/0803flyback-transformer-choke-design.pdf

It seems to pretty much say that powdered iron is fine, as I read it.

Jon
 
On Jul 11, 10:14 pm, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:
So really he's not saying "use ferrite", he's saying "don't use
iron"?

I guess so....
What about "iron powder" beads. All the ones in the PC power
supply look like these:

http://www.chinavendors.com/upload/cvo/product/iron-core-0000065998-L.jpg
 
On Jul 11, 11:04 pm, fungus <openglMYSO...@artlum.com> wrote:
What about "iron powder" beads.
This page seems to explain the difference but I can't decide
if it's better or worse for a joule thief.

http://www.bytemark.com/products/powercon.htm
 
On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 15:59:43 -0700 (PDT), fungus
<openglMYSOCKS@artlum.com> wrote:

On Jul 11, 10:14 pm, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:

If I measure the current going through the LEDs it says
102mA

It's probably right.  (Unless you are averaging.)  You should be
seeing high peak currents in there.  But only for a short part of a
total duty cycle.  Are you averaging?

Ummm, I'm using a digital multimeter.

Does it mean the voltage is staying rock steady but the current
is going crazy?
Well, to be honest, it's probably more my fault than yours. I'm not
there looking over your shoulder so I really don't know which set up
you were talking about.

If you are using the basic circuit (the one without the extra diode
and capacitor I'd suggested), then your currents should be pulsing
like mad and so should the voltage across the LEDs. If you are using
the suggestion I made, then the voltage should vary a little bit but
not much and the current should vary only a little bit, too. So it
depends on what you are doing... and what instrumentation you were
using.

I'm not an expert on multimeters, though I've designed some simple
ammeters and voltmeters in my past (very simple, nothing like these
commercial things.) But I believe they generally do averaging. Some
of them have the ability to let you select "peak values," so that you
can see what the peak is near to. And some support some form of RMS
reading, as well (the more expensive ones, more likely than the cheap
ones.) But I'd assume you aren't seeing the peak without information
to the contrary.

So I guess I don't know what circuit you were using.

If you were using the diode/capacitor thing I added, then 100mA is
probably looking pretty bright!! Looks like they are surviving, if
so. But it also means you are punching them too hard in that case.
I'd increase the base resistor value until you see currents in the
40mA or so range. If you were using the traditional pulsing
(previously to the schematic I posted) example, then I just don't
know. Maybe your meter is reporting peak... hard to be sure that it
wasn't. And if so, I'm not worried about the 100mA. But it really is
hard to be sure. Since you have a scope, place a small 1 ohm resistor
in series with the six LEDs and scope out the voltage across it.
Current will be equal to the voltage you see and you will get to see
it in real-time, that way!

Jon
 

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