Driver to drive?

josephkk · Aug 29, 2014

On Tue, 26 Aug 2014 23:26:26 -0700 (PDT), Patrick Chung
<pchung705@gmail.com> wrote:

Current mode control is the fastest control method for switching mode power supply since it has to feedback loops. Read more:

http://www.cirvirlab.com/index.php/switching-mode-power-supply/152-current-mode-control-or-current-programming-regulating-scheme.html

Why are you spewing shit?

?-(((

Jim Thompson · Aug 29, 2014

On Fri, 29 Aug 2014 00:29:21 -0700, josephkk
<joseph_barrett@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Tue, 26 Aug 2014 23:26:26 -0700 (PDT), Patrick Chung
pchung705@gmail.com> wrote:

Current mode control is the fastest control method for switching mode power supply since it has to feedback loops. Read more:

http://www.cirvirlab.com/index.php/switching-mode-power-supply/152-current-mode-control-or-current-programming-regulating-scheme.html

Why are you spewing shit?

?-(((

Sep 1, 2014

On Monday, September 1, 2014 1:12:42 AM UTC-5, DaveC wrote:
> Planets must be mis-aligned. Iďżoem having a tough time finding stuff.... http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6hupeo&s=8#.VAQBf3nldFw Looking for IR503 with no success. Thanks, Dave

It's over in sci.electronics.basics where you crossposted it.

NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net · Sep 15, 2014

I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work. For RF I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to element capacitance, and because the reliability of any given connection is horribly bad.

Steve R.

Don Kuenz · Sep 16, 2014

NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net <sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:

I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work.
For RF I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin
microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to
element capacitance, and because the reliability of any given
connection is horribly bad.

I've used "Dead Bug" before. "Manhattan style" was a new one for me. One
of my old ARRL Handbooks talked about "hacked Manhattan style" (my
words).

Hacked Manhattan doesn't use raised islands. Instead one takes a piece
of copper plated board and uses a hacksaw to carve grooves through the
copper while leaving the phenolic "substrate" mostly intact. The
horizontal and vertical grooves are spaced a quarter inch apart to form
a quarter inch square grid. At the end it looks like a piece of quarter
inch grid paper with grooves where inked lines ought to be. Each quarter
inch square of copper forms its own little island.

Did Radio Shack give its 276-170 a makeover? The RS website shows what
looks to be a nylon solderless breadboard. At other sites the 276-0170
looks like a plain old perfboard with a nlyon breadboard hole pattern.

--
Don Kuenz

Jim Thompson · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 12:23:02 -0700 (PDT), "NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net"
<sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:

I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work. For RF I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to element capacitance, and because the reliability of any given connection is horribly bad.

Steve R.

Don Kuenz · Sep 16, 2014

Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@on-my-web-site.com> wrote:

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 12:23:02 -0700 (PDT), "NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net"
sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:

I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work. For RF
I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to element cap
acitance, and because the reliability of any given connection is horribly bad.

Steve R.

I learned the hard way that they are horribly bad even at (audio)
40kHz.

A few months ago somebody recommended _Troubleshooting Analog Circuits_
by Bob Pease (RIP) as good reading material for John Larkin's new
engineer. I bought the book (along with the other books that people
mentioned that weren't already in my library). (Thank you everybody.)

It turns out that Bob Pease didn't like nylon breadboards for much the
same reason that everybody here doesn't like them (stray capacitance
and what not). Matter of fact, Pease said that he'd never seen them used
at his workplace before.

Pease also didn't like SPICE. Then again, nobody's perfect.

--
Don Kuenz

WhoLikesSpam@notme.com · Sep 16, 2014

Did Radio Shack give its 276-170 a makeover? The RS website shows what

looks to be a nylon solderless breadboard. At other sites the 276-0170

looks like a plain old perfboard with a nlyon breadboard hole pattern.

The 276-170 that I use is Perfboard set up for holding a line of DIPs. It has five pads in a line on each pin, and a VCC/GND trace. Most of what I do is slow, so 74HCT and Dip packed Op-Amps and Micros work just fine with it.. I talked them into a discount on a bag of 100 of them a few years ago.

At higher frequencies I run a ground plane down the middle of the dash-170 perfboard using brass shim stock.

Otherwise my prototypes look like Mr Larkin's, only on a lower budget.

I've built avalanche pulse generators and 2 Ghz capacitive sensors dead bug.. Thus I sing the praises of hamfest grade thin PCB stock. I've also used a diamond dust based hole saw to cut pads. The diamond drill leaves a nice thick ring of insulation around a 1/8th inch or 1/4th inch pad.

Steve

George Herold · Sep 16, 2014

On Monday, September 15, 2014 3:03:36 PM UTC-4, Don Kuenz wrote:

Do you personally use a plastic solderless breadboard for your

prototypes?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=solderless+breadboard

If not, what do you use for your prototypes?

TIA.

Every once in a while, to test something simple, or a simple circuit.
(But I usually regret it, when some wire/connections gets flaky.)
Then it turns into live bug air wires over copper clad.

George H.

--

Don Kuenz

Jim Thompson · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 23:54:34 +0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz
<garbage@crcomp.net> wrote:

Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@on-my-web-site.com> wrote:
On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 12:23:02 -0700 (PDT), "NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net"
sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:

I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work. For RF
I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to element cap
acitance, and because the reliability of any given connection is horribly bad.

Steve R.

I learned the hard way that they are horribly bad even at (audio)
40kHz.

A few months ago somebody recommended _Troubleshooting Analog Circuits_
by Bob Pease (RIP) as good reading material for John Larkin's new
engineer. I bought the book (along with the other books that people
mentioned that weren't already in my library). (Thank you everybody.)

It turns out that Bob Pease didn't like nylon breadboards for much the
same reason that everybody here doesn't like them (stray capacitance
and what not). Matter of fact, Pease said that he'd never seen them used
at his workplace before.

Pease also didn't like SPICE. Then again, nobody's perfect.

Pease was one year ahead of me at MIT... he's always been a little
weird ;-)

I didn't trust Spice myself until the late '70's when I was able to
get a GenRad programmer to fix the BJT B-E capacitance (in the Fortran
source code)... then I became a believer as product matched simulation
perfectly.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice

John Larkin · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 23:51:25 +0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz
<garbage@crcomp.net> wrote:

NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net <sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:
I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work.
For RF I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin
microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to
element capacitance, and because the reliability of any given
connection is horribly bad.

I've used "Dead Bug" before. "Manhattan style" was a new one for me. One
of my old ARRL Handbooks talked about "hacked Manhattan style" (my
words).

Hacked Manhattan doesn't use raised islands. Instead one takes a piece
of copper plated board and uses a hacksaw to carve grooves through the
copper while leaving the phenolic "substrate" mostly intact. The
horizontal and vertical grooves are spaced a quarter inch apart to form
a quarter inch square grid. At the end it looks like a piece of quarter
inch grid paper with grooves where inked lines ought to be. Each quarter
inch square of copper forms its own little island.

Did Radio Shack give its 276-170 a makeover? The RS website shows what
looks to be a nylon solderless breadboard. At other sites the 276-0170
looks like a plain old perfboard with a nlyon breadboard hole pattern.

A Dremel and a carbide dental burr cuts nice freehand patterns into
the copper, with a little practise.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/Protos/Burr_1.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/Protos/Burr_2.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/Protos/DCBB_2.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/Protos/Cclad_Dremel.JPG

--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

Jeff Liebermann · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 18:36:10 -0700, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno
<DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> wrote:

> Just 3D print them. A truly "printed" circuit.

Have you tried 3D printing yet? I've noticed that the most vocal
advocates of 3D printing are those that have never tried it. I got my
first experience at a local "makers" shop:
<http://makersfactory.com>
Mostly cardboard thickness sheets that were assembled into something
artsy. Then, my neighbor bought a DaVinci 3D printer version 1.0:
<http://us.xyzprinting.com/Product>
Of course, I had to play (after he was done making dinosaur skeletons
and robot gears). So, I measured and made a replacement fan rotor for
a video card that I broke. The fan eventually ran for about a minute
before it flew apart.

The short summary is that 3D printing could probably be used to make a
PCB if you don't mind secondary operations and complex CAD drawings.
There's no way to get a totally smooth finish. Tiny holes tend to
fill in when the plastic gets hot and reflows. It's slower than a
snail and makes far too much irritating noise. The final product is
rather brittle. Run to slow, and it melts and sags. Run too fast,
and it crumbles to dust. However, I suspect all of these problems can
be solved with a specialized 3D printer designed for making PC boards.

What would be cool is 3D printing with metal:
<http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/143552-3d-printing-with-metal-the-final-frontier-of-additive-manufacturing>
Multiple nozzles for substrate, conductive traces, and even resistive
material. With the ability to lay down very thin layers of insulating
plastic, maybe even capacitors. Of course, 3D means I pile components
on top of each other vertically, making a truly 3D circuit board. For
really thin products, such as cell phones, the component leads would
all touch each other, and the PCB would become a skeleton frame that
simply supports the component packages.

Oh well... back to the dull and boring reality of bookkeeping and
billing.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 22:16:14 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> Gave us:

I haven't seen an inexpensive metal printer.

There are std 3D printers which can spooge conductive epoxies.

rickman · Sep 16, 2014

On 9/16/2014 12:52 AM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 22:16:14 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> Gave us:

On 9/15/2014 9:36 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

Just 3D print them. A truly "printed" circuit.

I haven't seen an inexpensive metal printer. Better might be a photo
resist printer if it could handle the fine lines often needed. I'm
afraid that a Dremel tool isn't quite the surgeon's scalpel for placing
0.5 mm pitch quad flat packs. lol

Even so, etching a PCB is a PITA and usually the stuff I do needs to be
multiple layers. For PCBs one and even two layers is a pretty limiting
technology. Then there is the assembly work. I don't know that I can
solder anything small anymore. My hand is far from steady these days.

My hand is fine. I can shoot pool without touching the table.

It is my friggin eyes that are going. And probably my heart.

I would always brace my hand on the table, a very solid base is
important to a good shot. If you can do that in the air my hat is off
to you.

My eyes get steadily worse as well. But then an 88 year old friend has
macular degeneration and deals with it very well. He can still read
with difficulty and is writing an article on the post Civil War canteens
he collects. So I can't feel too bad...

--

Rick

rickman · Sep 16, 2014

On 9/15/2014 9:36 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 18:03:28 -0700, John Larkin
jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> Gave us:

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 23:51:25 +0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz
garbage@crcomp.net> wrote:

NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net <sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:
I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work.
For RF I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin
microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to
element capacitance, and because the reliability of any given
connection is horribly bad.

I've used "Dead Bug" before. "Manhattan style" was a new one for me. One
of my old ARRL Handbooks talked about "hacked Manhattan style" (my
words).

Hacked Manhattan doesn't use raised islands. Instead one takes a piece
of copper plated board and uses a hacksaw to carve grooves through the
copper while leaving the phenolic "substrate" mostly intact. The
horizontal and vertical grooves are spaced a quarter inch apart to form
a quarter inch square grid. At the end it looks like a piece of quarter
inch grid paper with grooves where inked lines ought to be. Each quarter
inch square of copper forms its own little island.

Did Radio Shack give its 276-170 a makeover? The RS website shows what
looks to be a nylon solderless breadboard. At other sites the 276-0170
looks like a plain old perfboard with a nlyon breadboard hole pattern.

A Dremel and a carbide dental burr cuts nice freehand patterns into
the copper, with a little practise.

Just 3D print them. A truly "printed" circuit.

I haven't seen an inexpensive metal printer. Better might be a photo
resist printer if it could handle the fine lines often needed. I'm
afraid that a Dremel tool isn't quite the surgeon's scalpel for placing
0.5 mm pitch quad flat packs. lol

Even so, etching a PCB is a PITA and usually the stuff I do needs to be
multiple layers. For PCBs one and even two layers is a pretty limiting
technology. Then there is the assembly work. I don't know that I can
solder anything small anymore. My hand is far from steady these days.

--

Rick

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 17:46:03 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> Gave us:

On Monday, September 15, 2014 3:03:36 PM UTC-4, Don Kuenz wrote:
Do you personally use a plastic solderless breadboard for your

prototypes?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=solderless+breadboard

If not, what do you use for your prototypes?

TIA.

Every once in a while, to test something simple, or a simple circuit.
(But I usually regret it, when some wire/connections gets flaky.)
Then it turns into live bug air wires over copper clad.

George H.

--

Don Kuenz

"Dead Bug" is legs up. It is also what you should use from the start,
with form factors being as small as they are these days.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 18:03:28 -0700, John Larkin
<jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> Gave us:

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 23:51:25 +0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz
garbage@crcomp.net> wrote:

NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net <sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:
I buy Radio Shack 276-170 linear breadboards in bulk for linear work.
For RF I do "Dead Bug" or "Manhatten" style work on very thin
microwave PCB.

I do not use the solderless breadboards, because of the element to
element capacitance, and because the reliability of any given
connection is horribly bad.

I've used "Dead Bug" before. "Manhattan style" was a new one for me. One
of my old ARRL Handbooks talked about "hacked Manhattan style" (my
words).

Hacked Manhattan doesn't use raised islands. Instead one takes a piece
of copper plated board and uses a hacksaw to carve grooves through the
copper while leaving the phenolic "substrate" mostly intact. The
horizontal and vertical grooves are spaced a quarter inch apart to form
a quarter inch square grid. At the end it looks like a piece of quarter
inch grid paper with grooves where inked lines ought to be. Each quarter
inch square of copper forms its own little island.

Did Radio Shack give its 276-170 a makeover? The RS website shows what
looks to be a nylon solderless breadboard. At other sites the 276-0170
looks like a plain old perfboard with a nlyon breadboard hole pattern.

A Dremel and a carbide dental burr cuts nice freehand patterns into
the copper, with a little practise.

Just 3D print them. A truly "printed" circuit.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn · Sep 16, 2014

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 22:16:14 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> Gave us:

On 9/15/2014 9:36 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

Just 3D print them. A truly "printed" circuit.

I haven't seen an inexpensive metal printer. Better might be a photo
resist printer if it could handle the fine lines often needed. I'm
afraid that a Dremel tool isn't quite the surgeon's scalpel for placing
0.5 mm pitch quad flat packs. lol

Even so, etching a PCB is a PITA and usually the stuff I do needs to be
multiple layers. For PCBs one and even two layers is a pretty limiting
technology. Then there is the assembly work. I don't know that I can
solder anything small anymore. My hand is far from steady these days.

My hand is fine. I can shoot pool without touching the table.

It is my friggin eyes that are going. And probably my heart.

Jasen Betts · Sep 16, 2014

On 2014-09-15, Don Kuenz <garbage@crcomp.net> wrote:

NoNoSpamSamIam@Null.net <sroberts6328@gmail.com> wrote:

Did Radio Shack give its 276-170 a makeover? The RS website shows what
looks to be a nylon solderless breadboard. At other sites the 276-0170
looks like a plain old perfboard with a nlyon breadboard hole pattern.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102846

looks like a perfboard with a whitewash to me, maybe they used
bleached fibres in the substrate.

--
umop apisdn

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Phil Hobbs · Sep 16, 2014

On 9/15/2014 9:34 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

On Mon, 15 Sep 2014 17:46:03 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> Gave us:

On Monday, September 15, 2014 3:03:36 PM UTC-4, Don Kuenz wrote:
Do you personally use a plastic solderless breadboard for your

prototypes?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=solderless+breadboard

If not, what do you use for your prototypes?

TIA.

Every once in a while, to test something simple, or a simple circuit.
(But I usually regret it, when some wire/connections gets flaky.)
Then it turns into live bug air wires over copper clad.

George H.

--

Don Kuenz

"Dead Bug" is legs up. It is also what you should use from the start,
with form factors being as small as they are these days.

I find that I can do dead bug with 50-mil pitch parts (such as SOICs and
SOT23s) by staggering the leads like saw teeth. The main problem is
that the leads are so fragile, whereas with DIPs you can just solder a
resistor to a pin and bend it anywhere you like without worrying.

Anything smaller than 50 mils is extremely difficult, so breakout boards
come in very handy. For devices where those don't work well (e.g. SC70
microwave transistors), it's sometimes possible to wire them up dead-bug
fashion with 0603s in midair, but that's very fiddly.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

Driver to drive?

josephkk

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