Driver to drive?

[Jasen Betts]

On 2014-08-14, Tim Wescott <seemywebsite@myfooter.really> wrote:

You may be able to do well enough by putting the nut on the starting board
(what do they _call_ it?) and building around it, if you're precise enough.

"build platform" I think.

most FDM printers run the extruder very close to the work, you're likely to
have a collision

One way or another, the metal part will need to be machined or printed
separately.

yeah.



--
umop apisdn


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2014-08-15, Dave M <dgminala4444@mediacombb.net> wrote:

Tim Wescott wrote:

I'm not familiar enough with the printers to know how they actually build a
part (the "starting board" is called a "build table"). How close to the
table and previously deposited layers does the extruder nozzle have to be?
Would that distance negate the ability to "print" around another object? I
guess that would be the critical factor.

A new question just came to me... Can a printer build upon a previously
finished part? IOW, can I build half of a part, imbed a metal part inside a
cavity, then put the part back on the table and have the printer build the
rest of the part on top of it?

you'd have to get the unfinished part part in exactly the right place,

but if the printer paused and moved its head aside you could reach in and insert
the nut. Perhaps an electromagnet, or vacuum nozzle, could be added to the head
and it could do pick-and-place and then continue with the print.

--
umop apisdn


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[Wanderer]

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 10:30:47 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:

Wow, I posted a question on buying caps and received several Digikey

recommendations. These caps at $.18 ea for 5 quantity. Yeah, that's good,

thank you. BUT!!!



for ten test leads to cost $100 seems a bit high!



for a solder sucker to cost $18.60 seems a bit high! where the same unit

at BG Micro was around the reasonable price of $6.23



So begs the question: Where to buy 'reasonably' priced lab supplies?

Jameco: http://www.jameco.com
Electronics Goldmine: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/
American Science and Surplus: http://www.sciplus.com
and for really weird stuff Surplus Shed: http://www.surplusshed.com

Jameco has two different solder pumps for $8.95. American Science and Surplus has one for $4.95.

 

[Wanderer]

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 5:29:43 PM UTC-4, Wanderer wrote:

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 10:30:47 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:

Wow, I posted a question on buying caps and received several Digikey



recommendations. These caps at $.18 ea for 5 quantity. Yeah, that's good,



thank you. BUT!!!







for ten test leads to cost $100 seems a bit high!







for a solder sucker to cost $18.60 seems a bit high! where the same unit



at BG Micro was around the reasonable price of $6.23







So begs the question: Where to buy 'reasonably' priced lab supplies?



Jameco: http://www.jameco.com

Electronics Goldmine: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/

American Science and Surplus: http://www.sciplus.com

and for really weird stuff Surplus Shed: http://www.surplusshed.com



Jameco has two different solder pumps for $8.95. American Science and Surplus has one for $4.95.

Also Adafruit has a solder sucker for $5.00 : http://www.adafruit.com/

 

[George Herold]

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 10:30:47 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:

Wow, I posted a question on buying caps and received several Digikey

recommendations. These caps at $.18 ea for 5 quantity. Yeah, that's good,

thank you. BUT!!!



for ten test leads to cost $100 seems a bit high!



for a solder sucker to cost $18.60 seems a bit high! where the same unit

at BG Micro was around the reasonable price of $6.23

So begs the question: Where to buy 'reasonably' priced lab supplies?

If you know the part you want octoparts can help you find cheaper suppliers.
(findchips too, but I'm using octoparts more these days.)

George H.

 

[Cydrome Leader]

Wanderer <wanderer@dialup4less.com> wrote:

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 5:29:43 PM UTC-4, Wanderer wrote:
On Sunday, August 17, 2014 10:30:47 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:

Wow, I posted a question on buying caps and received several Digikey



recommendations. These caps at $.18 ea for 5 quantity. Yeah, that's good,



thank you. BUT!!!







for ten test leads to cost $100 seems a bit high!







for a solder sucker to cost $18.60 seems a bit high! where the same unit



at BG Micro was around the reasonable price of $6.23







So begs the question: Where to buy 'reasonably' priced lab supplies?



Jameco: http://www.jameco.com

Electronics Goldmine: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/

American Science and Surplus: http://www.sciplus.com

and for really weird stuff Surplus Shed: http://www.surplusshed.com



Jameco has two different solder pumps for $8.95. American Science and Surplus has one for $4.95.

Also Adafruit has a solder sucker for $5.00 : http://www.adafruit.com/

I warn people to stay away from $5 soldering irons and cheap solder
suckers for the simple reason they're complete crap, virtually unusable
and cause more problems than they solve. Want to ruin a circuit board?
Just gouge at it for a few minutes with a junk soldering iron and solder
sucker. There's nothing like a burned up, delaminated board with lifted
off traces and all the other parts and wires in the area melted from being
hit with a wimpy, physically oversized iron.

Unless it's something way old, the cheapest acceptable solder sucker is
about $15 and comes from OK Industries. Anything they make is suitable,
although I find the tiny one handed models sort of dumb.

The cheapest acceptable soldering irons are the blue ones from Weller,
starting at maybe $25. They're good quality, even for the price and
actually temperature controlled. None of that ching chang ebay shit is.
Also, good luck getting new tips for a Peoples' Lead Mining, Food
Production and Electrical Industries soldering iron anyways. A dusty
hardware store with 30 year old stock can be a good source of soldering
iron tips for classic irons too.

You can get this stuff off ebay, but honestly, just get it new from a
distributor and you'll be ok knowing it's real and wasn't overpriced, old,
used garbage.

 

[RobertMacy]

On Sun, 17 Aug 2014 14:29:43 -0700, Wanderer <wanderer@dialup4less.com>
wrote:

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 10:30:47 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:
...snip....
So begs the question: Where to buy 'reasonably' priced lab supplies?

Jameco: http://www.jameco.com
Electronics Goldmine: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/
American Science and Surplus: http://www.sciplus.com
and for really weird stuff Surplus Shed: http://www.surplusshed.com

Jameco has two different solder pumps for $8.95. American Science and
Surplus has one for $4.95.

exact URLs, too! will explore. THANK YOU!

 

[Tim Williams]

"RobertMacy" <robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsp.xksgwrgi2cx0wh@ajm...

On Sun, 17 Aug 2014 14:29:43 -0700, Wanderer <wanderer@dialup4less.com
wrote:

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 10:30:47 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:
...snip....
So begs the question: Where to buy 'reasonably' priced lab supplies?

Jameco: http://www.jameco.com
Electronics Goldmine: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/
American Science and Surplus: http://www.sciplus.com
and for really weird stuff Surplus Shed: http://www.surplusshed.com

Jameco has two different solder pumps for $8.95. American Science and
Surplus has one for $4.95.


exact URLs, too! will explore. THANK YOU!

I'll add to that:
AS&S (ASS..?) is best seen in person. If there's a branch nearby, give it
a look. You might walk out with more than you expected.

BG Micro: http://www.bgmicro.com/
All Electronics: http://www.allelectronics.com/
both very much like Electronics Goldmine, and all have been around since
at least the 90s.

Surplus Sales of Nebraska: http://www.surplussales.com/
Lots of older HAM type stuff too.

Tim

--
Seven Transistor Labs
Electrical Engineering Consultation
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com

 

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:51:01 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote:

I'm starting to get interested in 3D printing. My primary purpose would be
to make parts for obsolete equipment, and other parts that are no longer
available. These parts often have imbedded metal parts, such as a metal
ferrule inside a knob, or an imbedded nut or mounting tab.
Can 3D printers make such parts? If so, is any additional equipment or
unique model of 3D printers required?

Monoprice has a model that appears to be a clone of a Makerbot printer at
about half the price. Reviews seem to indicate that it is an excellent
printer, although not perfect. I guess that 3D printers are relatively new
on the scene, and will improve in time.



Thanks for any insight,

Dave M

I know someone who has one of these guys' 4th Gen printers:
https://www.solidoodle.com/

It needed some minor mechanical retrofit--axes were racking & binding,
but otherwise works. $600.

It's basically the same RepRap core, bits of MakerBot, all bundled
together.

They've sure sold a lot of them. They claim 10,000+.

Cheers,
James Arthur

 

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 12:47:02 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:

<...> You seem to be trying to do

some fairly difficult stuff--do you really have zero budget for
supplies, or are you just being terminally cheap?

If the latter, here are some hot tips

With integrated LED voltmeter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buck-DC-DC-Step-down-Converter-Power-Supply-Module-40V-5A-75W-Digital-Voltmeter-/351144447712
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Adjustable-Voltage-CC-CV-Buck-Converter-7-32V-to-0-8-28V-12A-300W-/181288688186
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Converter-Module-LM2596-Voltage-Regulator-Led-Voltmeter-/160995621268

Bare necessities, 1.3-35V, $1.44 -- no expense spared!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-DC-LM2596-Step-Down-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Module-Converter-DC-1-3V-35V-/380755874794

Cheers!
James Arthur

 

[gareth]

<dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bd72c03d-aa23-4ef0-ae6e-2e6c2c3e3154@googlegroups.com...

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:51:01 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote:
I'm starting to get interested in 3D printing. My primary purpose would
be
to make parts for obsolete equipment, and other parts that are no longer
available. These parts often have imbedded metal parts, such as a metal
ferrule inside a knob, or an imbedded nut or mounting tab.
Can 3D printers make such parts? If so, is any additional equipment or
unique model of 3D printers required?
Monoprice has a model that appears to be a clone of a Makerbot printer at
about half the price. Reviews seem to indicate that it is an excellent
printer, although not perfect. I guess that 3D printers are relatively
new
on the scene, and will improve in time.
I know someone who has one of these guys' 4th Gen printers:
https://www.solidoodle.com/

It needed some minor mechanical retrofit--axes were racking & binding,
but otherwise works. $600.
It's basically the same RepRap core, bits of MakerBot, all bundled
together.
They've sure sold a lot of them. They claim 10,000+.

Last weekend was the Bristol Model Engineering exhibition, and the
commercial offshoot (http://reprappro.com) of Bath University had a stand
there.

Very impressive indeed.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 8/19/2014 2:45 PM, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote:

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 12:47:02 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:

...> You seem to be trying to do
some fairly difficult stuff--do you really have zero budget for
supplies, or are you just being terminally cheap?

If the latter, here are some hot tips

With integrated LED voltmeter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buck-DC-DC-Step-down-Converter-Power-Supply-Module-40V-5A-75W-Digital-Voltmeter-/351144447712
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Adjustable-Voltage-CC-CV-Buck-Converter-7-32V-to-0-8-28V-12A-300W-/181288688186
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-Converter-Module-LM2596-Voltage-Regulator-Led-Voltmeter-/160995621268

Bare necessities, 1.3-35V, $1.44 -- no expense spared!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-DC-LM2596-Step-Down-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Module-Converter-DC-1-3V-35V-/380755874794

Cheers!
James Arthur

I've bought a few of those LM2596 gizmos, and the ones I got work fine.
Of course, I was only running bulbs and RC airplane servos off them,
but still.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs
(Back from Verdun. Fort Douaumont is not to be missed.)

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[dcaster@krl.org]

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 2:30:47 PM UTC, Robert Macy wrote:

So begs the question: Where to buy 'reasonably' priced lab supplies?

Not exactly lab supplies but I was checking prices and found Amazon has lower prices than Ebay. At least on some items.

An example is a UNI-T UT61E digital multimeter. $46.74 on Amazon and $50.99 on Ebay. Not the cheapest multimeter, but it can connect to a computer and has a 22000 count.

Dan

 

[whit3rd]

On Monday, August 18, 2014 11:47:24 PM UTC-7, John Robertson wrote:

for a solder sucker to cost $18.60 seems a bit high! where the same unit
at BG Micro was around the reasonable price of $6.23

Like Phil, I buy only the Soldapullt model by Edsyn, these last on
average about ten to fifteen years in my shop. The knockoffs sometimes
only last a few weeks

I have both Soldapllt and two BG micro models; they're of equal quality
as far as I can tell. Other than kilobuck solder stations, they're the
only hot-solder suckers I'd recommend.

Someone actually LIKES the rubber-bulb models, I hear; but, I don't comprehend.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

whit3rd wrote:

Someone actually LIKES the rubber-bulb models, I hear; but, I don't comprehend.

I've used them for about 50 years. The Endeco desoldering iron was
$35 at that time, and I was making $1 working part time, as a junior
high school kid.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

 

[Przemek Klosowski]

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 10:20:16 -0500, Dave M wrote:

I'm not familiar enough with the printers to know how they actually
build a part (the "starting board" is called a "build table"). How
close to the table and previously deposited layers does the extruder
nozzle have to be? Would that distance negate the ability to "print"
around another object? I guess that would be the critical factor.

A new question just came to me... Can a printer build upon a previously
finished part? IOW, can I build half of a part, imbed a metal part
inside a cavity, then put the part back on the table and have the
printer build the rest of the part on top of it?

This is the 'interrupted printing' issue, and it is a big problem,
because the print head has to have a flat, aligned surface under it. This
is also a problem when you start the print---the build platform has to be
aligned, even though it's easier because at least it's know to be flat.

There are printers that have a THC-like height detection on the printhead
and can compensate for flatness---the main motivation being multi-material
printing.

As far as dropping an occasional nut into a hex pocket, it seems to me
that this should work well---just make the pocket a little deeper. It's
OK for the nut to wobble in the pocket a little bit---it doesn't need to
be fully constrained, and it may even help in the assembly if it can move
a bit.

 

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <b1bf0bfe-2bfc-488e-a54c-029ddb020945@googlegroups.com>,
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, August 18, 2014 11:47:24 PM UTC-7, John Robertson wrote:

for a solder sucker to cost $18.60 seems a bit high! where the same unit
at BG Micro was around the reasonable price of $6.23

Like Phil, I buy only the Soldapullt model by Edsyn, these last on
average about ten to fifteen years in my shop. The knockoffs sometimes
only last a few weeks

I have both Soldapllt and two BG micro models; they're of equal quality
as far as I can tell. Other than kilobuck solder stations, they're the
only hot-solder suckers I'd recommend.

Someone actually LIKES the rubber-bulb models, I hear; but, I don't comprehend.

The problem with the spring-loaded solder pullers is that they kick the
workpiece when triggered, making precision hard to achieve. I have
both, but most commonly use the rubber bulb.

Joe Gwinn

 

On Thursday, August 21, 2014 2:41:05 PM UTC-4, Rich Webb wrote:

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 12:02:34 -0500, "Dave M" wrote:

Yep, that's what I had in mind. I guess the critical factor would be the
ability to open the doors, and drop the nut in without disturbing the
position of the part. Am I correct in assuming that the part is stuck
securely to the build platform when the process starts?

The nut doesn't have to be fully encased. Lots of parts are made with hex
cavities, and the nuts are dropped in later.

Yes, having the piece stuck securely to the build plate is critical to
getting a successful print. It's somewhat of a black art. One wants
the piece absolutely nailed to the platform during printing but able
to release easily afterwards, without damage to the platform, the
piece, or to the operator's cheery good mood.

http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140531-introducing-the-geckotek-3d-printer-build-platform.html ?

(I haven't tried it)

Cheers,
James Arthur

 

[Dave M]

Przemek Klosowski wrote:

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 10:20:16 -0500, Dave M wrote:


I'm not familiar enough with the printers to know how they actually
build a part (the "starting board" is called a "build table"). How
close to the table and previously deposited layers does the extruder
nozzle have to be? Would that distance negate the ability to "print"
around another object? I guess that would be the critical factor.

A new question just came to me... Can a printer build upon a
previously finished part? IOW, can I build half of a part, imbed a
metal part inside a cavity, then put the part back on the table and
have the printer build the rest of the part on top of it?


This is the 'interrupted printing' issue, and it is a big problem,
because the print head has to have a flat, aligned surface under it.
This is also a problem when you start the print---the build platform
has to be aligned, even though it's easier because at least it's know
to be flat.

There are printers that have a THC-like height detection on the
printhead and can compensate for flatness---the main motivation being
multi-material printing.

As far as dropping an occasional nut into a hex pocket, it seems to me
that this should work well---just make the pocket a little deeper.
It's OK for the nut to wobble in the pocket a little bit---it doesn't
need to be fully constrained, and it may even help in the assembly if
it can move a bit.

^
^^^
^^^^^
Yep, that's what I had in mind. I guess the critical factor would be the
ability to open the doors, and drop the nut in without disturbing the
position of the part. Am I correct in assuming that the part is stuck
securely to the build platform when the process starts?

Dave M

 

[Rich Webb]

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014 12:02:34 -0500, "Dave M"
<dgminala4444@mediacombb.net> wrote:

Yep, that's what I had in mind. I guess the critical factor would be the
ability to open the doors, and drop the nut in without disturbing the
position of the part. Am I correct in assuming that the part is stuck
securely to the build platform when the process starts?

Yes, having the piece stuck securely to the build plate is critical to
getting a successful print. It's somewhat of a black art. One wants
the piece absolutely nailed to the platform during printing but able
to release easily afterwards, without damage to the platform, the
piece, or to the operator's cheery good mood.