Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigera

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/9/2016 1:27 AM, Danny D. wrote:

So are these my basic choices?
a) capacitor, or
b) relay, or
c) new frig?

Any idea how to test the relay?

d) the suggestion Stormy gave yesterday.

I've never tested a relay. Just replace,
and see if the unit comes back to life.

You may also answer my question, if you
wish. The one I asked yesterday.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:21:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've never tested a relay. Just replace,
and see if the unit comes back to life.

You may also answer my question, if you
wish. The one I asked yesterday.

Hi Chris,
I answer *all* questions, so I apologize if I missed one of yours.

Thanks to you, I had the courage to pry harder on the combined
"Refrigerator Overload and Start Relay" to pull it off.
http://i.cubeupload.com/ewhAUP.jpg

The "courage" here is better than a shot of whiskey because you give me the
confidence that I just need to try harder!

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 02:49:54 -0400, tom wrote:

Some Digital Multimeters can measure capacitance. Can you find one that
will? Ebay maybe? Measure the capacitor - it should be close to 12 uF.

You should clean out all the dust on the black condenser coils shown in the
one picture.

You might pop the tabs on the relay (give it a good pull or pry with a
screwdriver) and inspect the contact points inside. Also check that the coil
is not open (with the DMM).

Or just take a chance and get new parts. A new refer will be costly.

Here is an annotated picture of some quick test results:
http://i.cubeupload.com/PmCLK7.jpg

After cooling down the motor overnight, plugging it in, we can hear the
solenoid click on and the motor hum until it clicks off.
(I'm trying to find a way to upload that video for you but it's 13MB).

I checked resistance of all that I could with the following results:
1. Compressor contacts:
Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the zero ohms end.
Assumption: The two wire coils inside are good.

2. Overload & Start Relay contacts:
Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the infinite end.
Assumption: I'm not sure what to make of that because it's clearly
getting power to the motor in some way and then shutting off in some way.

3. Run Capacitor:
I don't have a farad tester, so, I just checked to see if the contacts
were shorted but they are open to a Radio Shack needle ohm meter (AAA
battery).

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 08:10:19 -0700, Oren wrote:

You can test the compressor for continuity to determine if it's bad...

http://www.geeksonhome.com/how_7901874_test-compressor-refrigerator.html

Check Youtube for some videos, too.

I agree with those it may just be the "start/run/cap". Fixed my
freezer for ~$52. It was smelling and sizzling trying to start the
compressor.

Huckleberry

Thanks Huckleberry for always being there for me!

That page was helpful but confusing at the same time partly because I was
hoping that I could jump 120 volts to two of the three terminals of the
compressor to see if it runs. If it runs, that would be proof that the
compressor is fine - which - after all - is the only part that would kill
the frig if it wasn't working.

The page talked about various letters stamped on the relay, and a magnetic
switch but mine has no letters on it and there is no magnetic switch.
http://www.geeksonhome.com/how_7901874_test-compressor-refrigerator.html

Anyway, I think I'll just replace both the cap and the overload/start relay
combo, and if that works - you guys are heros. If not. Well then, you're
Elderberrys!



Elderberry

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 01:56:54 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster wrote:

Someone has already mentioned cleaning the dust elephants out of the condenser. Dirt buildup causes stress on the compressor because it's more difficult for it to get rid of the heat causing it to work so much harder. The prices on the diagram looked pretty high so if there is a local appliance parts company or a Johnstone Supply in your area, it may be a good idea to replace both capacitor and thermal overload relay. ^_^

https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/

Hi Uncle Fridge Monster,

We let it cool overnight and reassembled the cap & start relay and plugged
it in a few times. Here is a video of what happened.
http://tinypic.com/r/20ubk3d/9

Can anyone tell, from that video, what is happening?

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 12:41:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

> And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon.

If I become a Mormon, do I have to tell my Italian wife?

Maybe I'll make a deal with her:
Mormon for the refrigerator?

PS: Is polygamy still allowed?

 

[Oren]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 05:27:26 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Note to Oren: Those aren't huckleberries; 'dems elderberries!

Hey!

You can test the compressor for continuity to determine if it's bad...

<http://www.geeksonhome.com/how_7901874_test-compressor-refrigerator.html>

Check Youtube for some videos, too.

I agree with those it may just be the "start/run/cap". Fixed my
freezer for ~$52. It was smelling and sizzling trying to start the
compressor.

Huckleberry

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/9/2016 12:29 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:21:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've never tested a relay. Just replace,
and see if the unit comes back to life.

You may also answer my question, if you
wish. The one I asked yesterday.

Hi Chris,
I answer *all* questions, so I apologize if I missed one of yours.

Thanks to you, I had the courage to pry harder on the combined
"Refrigerator Overload and Start Relay" to pull it off.
http://i.cubeupload.com/ewhAUP.jpg

The "courage" here is better than a shot of whiskey because you give me the
confidence that I just need to try harder!

And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just
stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking"
noise
started happening.

If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with
electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.

Since you missed the question the first time.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 7/9/2016 12:36 PM, Danny D. wrote:
....

I checked resistance of all that I could with the following results:
1. Compressor contacts:
Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the zero ohms end.
Assumption: The two wire coils inside are good.

Agree

2. Overload & Start Relay contacts:
Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the infinite end.
Assumption: I'm not sure what to make of that because it's clearly
getting power to the motor in some way and then shutting off in some way.

There should not be any connections between these contacts. They will
have connections to the input power contacts and the cap contacts.
Involving the relay. Without know the internal circuitry, you can't
diagnose it.

3. Run Capacitor:
I don't have a farad tester, so, I just checked to see if the contacts
were shorted but they are open to a Radio Shack needle ohm meter (AAA
battery).

You know it's not shorted (unlikely from the start). To check for not open:
- put the meter on the highest ohm setting
- momentarily short the cap contacts
- touch the cap contacts with the meter leads
- the needle should swing to a high reading as the cap charging current
flows & then fall to zero as the cap becomes fully charged

Bob

 

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:
....

Can anyone tell, from that video, what is happening?

Yep - this video is telling the same story as the first one: the motor
tries to start & the overload clicks open when it overheats from the
excessive current. (It's probably a bimetal leaf.)

 

[Oren]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 16:43:47 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote:

I was
hoping that I could jump 120 volts to two of the three terminals of the
compressor to see if it runs. If it runs, that would be proof that the
compressor is fine - which - after all - is the only part that would kill
the frig if it wasn't working.

Above my pay grade, Danny.

There is a guy on Youtube that harvested a compressor, tested it, and
he built a unit for his air brushing needs. It was fancy stuff.

If I find the link in saved URLs, I'll post it fer ya. I'm not really
motivated today :-\

 

[Oren]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 16:43:47 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote:

The page talked about various letters stamped on the relay, and a magnetic
switch but mine has no letters on it and there is no magnetic switch.
http://www.geeksonhome.com/how_7901874_test-compressor-refrigerator.html

My memory fails. Awhile back there was a link or video about the
sequence of how you test the pins. No clue if it is accurate or
correct.

Blank stare:

1) Bottom two pins

2) Bottom right and top

3) Top and Bottom left
--
"We recommend using your hand to replace the fuse as it will take much longer using your knee."

 

[Mr Pounder Esquire]

Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just
stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking"
noise
started happening.

If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with
electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.


Since you missed the question the first time.

Classic signs of fucked compressor.

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 10:20:40 -0700, Oren wrote:

My memory fails. Awhile back there was a link or video about the
sequence of how you test the pins. No clue if it is accurate or
correct.

Blank stare:

1) Bottom two pins

2) Bottom right and top

3) Top and Bottom left
--

Went to a great appliance store in San Jose where the guy behind the
counter tested the cap and said it was good.

He said the compressor not working could be three things:
1. Bad compressor
2. Bad relay
3. Restriction in the freon lines

He strongly suggested I not buy his relay from him before testing it, and
he explained how the relay works (the white part is the thermal switch by
the way).

He said to plug in the power to the relay (two spades) and check that the
backside of the relay (3 pins) has power to common.

To do this, he told me to create a test jig where I can put 120 volts to
the Start and Main/Run pins of the compressor, with the neutral on the
common pin, and then pull off the start once the compressor starts.

He said if the compressor doesn't start - then that's it for the frig.

So I went home empty handed and then picked up some alligator clips,
spades, and butt connectors and am slapping together a test jig as we type.
The wife and sister were very unhappy that I came home, essentially, empty
handed. But the guy was right that I didn't do enough diagnostics.

The test jig will have two spades on the incoming end, which will plug into
the existing power cable (hot and neutral), and then it will have three
outputs which will be tube-connectors (two hots and one neutral).

The procedure will be:
1. Unplug power
2. Hook two male spades to female spades in power cord
3. Hook a butt plug to Start (hot) and to Run/Main (hot) and to neutral
4. Plug it in
5. Yank off the start wire as soon as the compressor starts

If the compressor starts, then it's good.
If not ...

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 12:57:59 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Yep - this video is telling the same story as the first one: the motor
tries to start & the overload clicks open when it overheats from the
excessive current. (It's probably a bimetal leaf.)

The guy at the parts store showed me a type of relay that has a
semiconductor disc inside which shatters, and when you shake the relay, if
it's broken, it rattles.

The one he had on the counter rattled, but he said mine isn't that kind
(probably a bimetallic strip as you said).

He really talked me out of buying both parts. They were each about 50
bucks, and he said I'd just be unhappy. So he sent me home to do some more
diagnostics with a test cable, which I'm gonna make now.

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message news:iR9gz.23685$nK.23155@fx06.iad...

On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just
stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking"
noise
started happening.

If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with
electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.

Since you missed the question the first time.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..





Christopher, can you perhaps leave "Jesus" out of this thread?


Cheers,


Gareth.

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

We let it cool overnight and reassembled the cap & start relay and plugged
it in a few times. Here is a video of what happened.
http://tinypic.com/r/20ubk3d/9

Can anyone tell, from that video, what is happening?

Yes. I can. Totally what I diagnosed
yesterday.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/9/2016 12:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 12:41:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon.

If I become a Mormon, do I have to tell my Italian wife?

CY: Yes, many Italians are Mormons.

Maybe I'll make a deal with her:
Mormon for the refrigerator?

CY: She'll love it!

PS: Is polygamy still allowed?

CY: Not since 1890.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/9/2016 2:20 PM, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with
electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.


Since you missed the question the first time.

Classic signs of fucked compressor.

Says you. I've worked on more than a few of
these, and the compressor was fine.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..