Chip with simple program for Toy

[Peter Hucker]

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 00:17:38 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <4904D5CA.4A605792@hotmail.com>, Eeyore wrote:


Don Klipstein wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Michael Black wrote:

The comparison is so people know that a 23watt CFL is about the
same as a 100W bulb.

In the UK they'll try to kid you 18W does it !

My experience in USA "120V land" is that "better" 18-20 watt CFL at
optimum temperature with no aging past a 100 operating-hour break-in
period is a good match to "better" 75 watt incandescents.

Yes, I think you're about right there.

And that it takes 25-26 watts for a CFL to "fully match a 100W
'standard' incandescent", with 28 watts no better and 30 watt CFLs
"slightly brighter".

Now try buying one ?

My experience in USA is that 26 watt spirals CFLs of "full 100 watt
incandescent equivalence" are widely available where CFLs are sold,
including USA's two major drugstore chains as well as home centers of the
two main chains of those.

I do consider those to be prone to overheating in recessed ceiling
fixtures and enclosed fixtures. *Disclaimer* - my personal opinion with
data running low due to low usage rate that I consider advisable for such
light fixtures.

I had nine of a pack of ten spiral CFLs fail within 6 months by overheating. But they were "biobulbs" - a very pure white light. In fact one caught fire!!!

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

A little boy sits on Santa's lap. Santa says "I bet I know what you want for Christmas," and with his finger he taps the boys nose with every letter he spells "T-O-Y-S".
The little boy thinks a second and says, "No, I have enough toys."
Santa replies once again tapping the boys nose with every letter, "C-A-N-D-Y."
Again the little boy thinks a second and says, "No, I have all kinds of candy."
"Well what would you like for Christmas?" Santa asks.
The little boy replies, tapping Santa on the nose, "P-U-S-S-Y, and don't tell me you don't have any because I can smell it on your finger!"

 

[Don Klipstein]

In <op.ujo48snh4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote (edit for space):

On 27 Oct 2008 18:38:30 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo3edlk4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote (ed. 4 space):

They claim 480 lumens for a 96 strip using 7.68 watts (although this is
converting from their own units using their own calculator). 2.7 of
these required to replace a 100W incandescent = 1300 lumens using 20
watts, which is the same as a compact fluorescent. That can't be right
LEDs are more efficient than fluorescents.

Most LEDs are actually not more efficient than fluorescents - only the
very most efficient few are. And even the best of those are hardly more
efficient than T8 4-foot fluorescents.

This site seems to think they are TEN times as efficient as an incandescent:
http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/

They even state watts and lumens for a few, and I think I know the watts
for a few others that they state the lumens of:

Top left one - 200 lumens from 3 watts.

Top center one - 160 lumens from 5 watts.

The 330 lumen 3-LED Rebel Star: Probably typically achieves that with
7.14 watts (3.4 volts per LED, 700 mA)

The 130 and 105 lumen K2 stars - Probably achieve that at 1.5 amps with
typical voltage drop of 3.85 volts. These appear to me to be
older type ones without "TFFC" that are in the DS51 datasheet.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 19:38:21 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo48snh4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote (edit for space):
On 27 Oct 2008 18:38:30 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo3edlk4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote (ed. 4 space):

They claim 480 lumens for a 96 strip using 7.68 watts (although this is
converting from their own units using their own calculator). 2.7 of
these required to replace a 100W incandescent = 1300 lumens using 20
watts, which is the same as a compact fluorescent. That can't be right
LEDs are more efficient than fluorescents.

Most LEDs are actually not more efficient than fluorescents - only the
very most efficient few are. And even the best of those are hardly more
efficient than T8 4-foot fluorescents.

This site seems to think they are TEN times as efficient as an incandescent:
http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/

They even state watts and lumens for a few, and I think I know the watts
for a few others that they state the lumens of:

Top left one - 200 lumens from 3 watts.

Top center one - 160 lumens from 5 watts.

The 330 lumen 3-LED Rebel Star: Probably typically achieves that with
7.14 watts (3.4 volts per LED, 700 mA)

The 130 and 105 lumen K2 stars - Probably achieve that at 1.5 amps with
typical voltage drop of 3.85 volts. These appear to me to be
older type ones without "TFFC" that are in the DS51 datasheet.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

This one (bottom right) claims 3.6 watts = 30 watts.
http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/1142ba15d-36w30w-cool-white-830v-p-1920.html

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

I still say a church steeple with a lightning rod on top shows a lack of confidence.

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <op.ujo6ixdc4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 00:17:38 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <4904D5CA.4A605792@hotmail.com>, Eeyore wrote:


Don Klipstein wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Michael Black wrote:

The comparison is so people know that a 23watt CFL is about the
same as a 100W bulb.

In the UK they'll try to kid you 18W does it !

My experience in USA "120V land" is that "better" 18-20 watt CFL at
optimum temperature with no aging past a 100 operating-hour break-in
period is a good match to "better" 75 watt incandescents.

Yes, I think you're about right there.

And that it takes 25-26 watts for a CFL to "fully match a 100W
'standard' incandescent", with 28 watts no better and 30 watt CFLs
"slightly brighter".

Now try buying one ?

My experience in USA is that 26 watt spirals CFLs of "full 100 watt
incandescent equivalence" are widely available where CFLs are sold,
including USA's two major drugstore chains as well as home centers of the
two main chains of those.

I do consider those to be prone to overheating in recessed ceiling
fixtures and enclosed fixtures. *Disclaimer* - my personal opinion with
data running low due to low usage rate that I consider advisable for such
light fixtures.

I had nine of a pack of ten spiral CFLs fail within 6 months by
overheating. But they were "biobulbs" - a very pure white light. In
fact one caught fire!!!

Those remind me of the CFLs available from some dollar stores in the
USA.

One even avoids mentioning on its package a brand or name of distributor,
importer, etc. The package even has a copyright notice that lacks mention
of who is claiming the copyright. It appears to me they want to hide!

None of them making claims of light output meets them. Some fall short
of claimed light output by a factor of 3-plus. A few avoid making claims
of light output or "incandescent equivalence" or "incandescent
replacement".

Most are an icy cold "daylight" color. Some of the daylight color ones
come in packages claiming "soft warm white light". Most of the few that
actually have a warm color appear to me to have low color rendering index,
like that of "old tech warm white" - whose CRI is 53.

Most of my spectacular failures of CFLs have been of dollar store ones
that I only purchased so that I can say "in my actual experience" what
sort of stool specimens those are. I had one fill a room with smoke after
3 minutes, and refuse to stop producing an orange "burning" glow until I
shut the power off.

A friend of mine testing just a few of these had one go out with two
bangs and a pop and another fill his room with smoke.

One model of one of the "dollar store brands" has suffered a recall for
having its ballast housing being made of plastic that is not flame
retardant.

It appears to me that "self ballasted lamps" normally get UL listing.
In my experience, most dollar store CFLs are self-ballasted ones lacking
any mention of UL or any other safety testing laboratory.

120V self-ballasted CFLs with electronic ballasts normally have "FCC
ID". In my experience, most dollar store CFLs are 120V self-ballasted
ones with electronic ballasts and without any visible sign of "FCC ID".

In USA, I would stick with CFLs that achieve all of the following:

1. Are either "Big 3" brand" (GE, Philips or Sylvania) or are sold by
*major established* retail chains.

2. If they are screw base or otherwise self-ballasted, they should have
UL listing.

3. If they have electronic ballasts (in my experience all spirals and
most other screw base ones nowadays have electronic ballasts), then they
should have "FCC ID".

4. Ones with the "Energy Star" logo are supposed to have achieved some
level of good performance.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <op.ujo8dly34buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

On 27 Oct 2008 19:38:21 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo48snh4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

This site seems to think they are TEN times as efficient as an
incandescent: http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/

They even state watts and lumens for a few, and I think I know the watts
for a few others that they state the lumens of:

Top left one - 200 lumens from 3 watts.

Top center one - 160 lumens from 5 watts.

The 330 lumen 3-LED Rebel Star: Probably typically achieves that with
7.14 watts (3.4 volts per LED, 700 mA)

The 130 and 105 lumen K2 stars - Probably achieve that at 1.5 amps with
typical voltage drop of 3.85 volts. These appear to me to be
older type ones without "TFFC" that are in the DS51 datasheet.

This one (bottom right) claims 3.6 watts = 30 watts.
http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/1142ba15d-36w30w-cool-white-830v-p-1920.html

If that is true, then this is 8.33 times as efficient as a 30W
incandescent. What kind of 30W incandescent?

Notice lack of a lumen claim. I have noticed that a lot of these
figures without lumen claims tend to be optimistic.

Also, a 30W incandescent is less efficient than a 60 or 100 watt one due
to a couple of economies of scale. How many of these things does it take
to match a 100 watt incandescent?

For that matter, I even see a lot of the lumen claims being optimistic -
such as being taken from a datasheet that specifies LED heatsinkable
surface temperature or even *junction temperature* of 25 C as a condition
of such lumen output.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Don Klipstein]

In <op.ujo5i4ze4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote in part:

On 27 Oct 2008 18:46:08 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Never felt one that felt warmer than my own hand.

I just fired up a medium screw base nominally 2 watt 18-LED 120V "bulb"
and let it warm up for about 45 minutes. The bulb-like housing screws
off, making it convenient for me to aim my non-contact thermometer at the
LEDs to see how warm they got:

45 degrees C in a 23 C ambient.

I have done this with a couple LED work lights, and seen as high as 60 C.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Robert Monsen]

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 18:40:38 GMT, Rich Grise <rich@example.net> wrote:

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 02:48:12 -0700, jaiprakash.788 wrote:

How can we make a Radio transmitter and receiver. Pl. give me some easiest
possible ways to do so.

Easiest way I know of:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3198210&cp=&sr=1&kw=remote+switch&origkw=remote+switch&parentPage=search

(or you could go to the other side of google and search for "radio
tutorial".)

Cheers!
Rich

I just saw a wireless light switch for $15 at Fry's. You can't buy the
wireless tx/rx for that from the surplus places. So, buy one, and tear
it apart to get the parts. You'll also get a nice relay and switch.

If you are in India, you can probably get one for 500 rupees...

Regards,
Bob Monsen

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Don Klipstein wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Also, I have heard of some of the cheapies having poor internal
connections. I have even seen some that failed after mere hundreds of
operating hours and mere hundreds of on-off cycles and several months of
storage. I don't know who made those (Chinese cheapie), but I did tell
the product assembler to use something else.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

Have you seen these?

<http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200361182_200361182>

<http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200361181_200361181>


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[Eeyore]

John Fields wrote:

Eeyore wrote:

As for India, that's quite another matter overall. If *anyone* can make
that claim it would have been the Japanese and I doubt the Indians would
have liked them very much compared to us.
---
Back then, just two sides of the same coin.

That is, just two ruthless empires with world domination, by force, in
mind.

With 30,000 British soldiers in India and 300 million Indian populatiom, a
ratio of 1 soldier to every 10,000 Indians I'd like to see how you can back
up your claim of 'force'.

The fact of the matter was that the British Empire was based on TRADE.

Graham

 

[Don Klipstein]

In <DLKdnZ2hqfq_LpvUnZ2dnUVZ_oTinZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A. Terrell said:

Have you seen these?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/
product_6970_200361182_200361182

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/
product_6970_200361181_200361181

I have yet to see such big CFLs in person except once at a trade show.

I have seen that similar ones are available from at least of the major
online lightbulb sellers.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:02:28 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujo6ixdc4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 00:17:38 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <4904D5CA.4A605792@hotmail.com>, Eeyore wrote:


Don Klipstein wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Michael Black wrote:

The comparison is so people know that a 23watt CFL is about the
same as a 100W bulb.

In the UK they'll try to kid you 18W does it !

My experience in USA "120V land" is that "better" 18-20 watt CFL at
optimum temperature with no aging past a 100 operating-hour break-in
period is a good match to "better" 75 watt incandescents.

Yes, I think you're about right there.

And that it takes 25-26 watts for a CFL to "fully match a 100W
'standard' incandescent", with 28 watts no better and 30 watt CFLs
"slightly brighter".

Now try buying one ?

My experience in USA is that 26 watt spirals CFLs of "full 100 watt
incandescent equivalence" are widely available where CFLs are sold,
including USA's two major drugstore chains as well as home centers of the
two main chains of those.

I do consider those to be prone to overheating in recessed ceiling
fixtures and enclosed fixtures. *Disclaimer* - my personal opinion with
data running low due to low usage rate that I consider advisable for such
light fixtures.

I had nine of a pack of ten spiral CFLs fail within 6 months by
overheating. But they were "biobulbs" - a very pure white light. In
fact one caught fire!!!

Those remind me of the CFLs available from some dollar stores in the
USA.

One even avoids mentioning on its package a brand or name of distributor,
importer, etc. The package even has a copyright notice that lacks mention
of who is claiming the copyright. It appears to me they want to hide!

None of them making claims of light output meets them. Some fall short
of claimed light output by a factor of 3-plus. A few avoid making claims
of light output or "incandescent equivalence" or "incandescent
replacement".

Most are an icy cold "daylight" color. Some of the daylight color ones
come in packages claiming "soft warm white light". Most of the few that
actually have a warm color appear to me to have low color rendering index,
like that of "old tech warm white" - whose CRI is 53.

I prefer the colder light - the bluer light like you get from modern headlamps.

Most of my spectacular failures of CFLs have been of dollar store ones
that I only purchased so that I can say "in my actual experience" what
sort of stool specimens those are. I had one fill a room with smoke after
3 minutes, and refuse to stop producing an orange "burning" glow until I
shut the power off.

If you're in the USA, can't you sue them for a million dollars of damages or something? Claim it's affected you psychologically or something.

A friend of mine testing just a few of these had one go out with two
bangs and a pop and another fill his room with smoke.

One model of one of the "dollar store brands" has suffered a recall for
having its ballast housing being made of plastic that is not flame
retardant.

It appears to me that "self ballasted lamps" normally get UL listing..
In my experience, most dollar store CFLs are self-ballasted ones lacking
any mention of UL or any other safety testing laboratory.

I'm surprised they get away with that.

120V self-ballasted CFLs with electronic ballasts normally have "FCC
ID". In my experience, most dollar store CFLs are 120V self-ballasted
ones with electronic ballasts and without any visible sign of "FCC ID"..

Isn't FCC just concerned with radio interference and nothing to do with safety?

In USA, I would stick with CFLs that achieve all of the following:

1. Are either "Big 3" brand" (GE, Philips or Sylvania) or are sold by
*major established* retail chains.

2. If they are screw base or otherwise self-ballasted, they should have
UL listing.

3. If they have electronic ballasts (in my experience all spirals and
most other screw base ones nowadays have electronic ballasts), then they
should have "FCC ID".

4. Ones with the "Energy Star" logo are supposed to have achieved some
level of good performance.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

*
* _..__ *
.mMMMMM``
* .MMMMP`
MMMMM * *
MMMMM
`MMMMb.
* `'MMMMM.. *
`''`` *
* *
*
* /
* * /X
/XX
* * /XXX *
|
~~- _= -~_ -~~__= -\XXXXXX/ =_-~~ -
_~=~~=_~- __~~-__ -_-=_~~__-=~=__--~_ - __=~ -_==~_-~~_-- =__~ ~-__-=~_-~-_~

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:11:43 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujo8dly34buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On 27 Oct 2008 19:38:21 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo48snh4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

This site seems to think they are TEN times as efficient as an
incandescent: http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/

They even state watts and lumens for a few, and I think I know the watts
for a few others that they state the lumens of:

Top left one - 200 lumens from 3 watts.

Top center one - 160 lumens from 5 watts.

The 330 lumen 3-LED Rebel Star: Probably typically achieves that with
7.14 watts (3.4 volts per LED, 700 mA)

The 130 and 105 lumen K2 stars - Probably achieve that at 1.5 amps with
typical voltage drop of 3.85 volts. These appear to me to be
older type ones without "TFFC" that are in the DS51 datasheet.

This one (bottom right) claims 3.6 watts = 30 watts.
http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/1142ba15d-36w30w-cool-white-830v-p-1920.html

If that is true, then this is 8.33 times as efficient as a 30W
incandescent. What kind of 30W incandescent?

Notice lack of a lumen claim. I have noticed that a lot of these
figures without lumen claims tend to be optimistic.

Also, a 30W incandescent is less efficient than a 60 or 100 watt one due
to a couple of economies of scale. How many of these things does it take
to match a 100 watt incandescent?

For that matter, I even see a lot of the lumen claims being optimistic -
such as being taken from a datasheet that specifies LED heatsinkable
surface temperature or even *junction temperature* of 25 C as a condition
of such lumen output.

I'm certainly getting what looks to my eyes as 100W incandescent equivalent (note that European 240V incandescents are actually slightly dimmer than yours) from 384 LEDs of the strips I mentioned. These draw 0.7 amps at 12 volts. That's 11.9 times as efficient as a 100W incandescent. They are all working fine apart from the greens which have all lost a few LEDs. I'll be sending those back for an alternate colour.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

A very shy guy goes into a bar and sees a beautiful woman sitting at the bar. After an hour of gathering up his courage, he finally goes over to her and asks, tentatively, "Um, would you mind if I chatted with you for a while?" To which she responds by yelling, at the top of her lungs, "No, I won't sleep with you tonight!"
Everyone in the bar is now staring at them. Naturally, the guy is hopelessly and completely embarrassed and he slinks back to his table.
After a few minutes, the woman walks over to him and apologizes. She smiles at him and says, "I'm sorry if I embarrassed you. You see, I'm a graduate student in psychology and I'm studying how people respond to embarrassing situations."
To which he responds, at the top of his lungs, "WHAT DO YOU MEAN, $200?"

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:20:33 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo5i4ze4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote in part:
On 27 Oct 2008 18:46:08 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Never felt one that felt warmer than my own hand.

I just fired up a medium screw base nominally 2 watt 18-LED 120V "bulb"

What on earth can you do with something that dim? You'd need hundreds of those things to light a room.

and let it warm up for about 45 minutes. The bulb-like housing screws off,

For what purpose? Can you swap for different fittings?

making it convenient for me to aim my non-contact thermometer at the
LEDs to see how warm they got:

But what is it picking up? The surface of the LED plastic, or the inside of the LED?

45 degrees C in a 23 C ambient.

I don't have my house that warm!

I have done this with a couple LED work lights, and seen as high as 60 C.

My work didn't even use CFLs until I told them how much they'd save a year.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

A woman calls a Contractor to her house to give her a bid on painting the interior of her house.
She takes him into the first room and tells him that she wants it painted pale green.
The contractor writes something down on his notepad, goes over to the window and yells down "Green side up!"
The homeowner takes him into the next room and tells him that she would like it painted rose colored.
The contractor again notes it on his note pad, goes over to the window and opens it. He then yells down, "Green side up!"
The woman was curious, but continued to show him the rest of the house.
In each room the contractor notes her color choice on his notepad and yells out the window, "Green side up!"
When the homeowner had completed the tour, she asked the contractor why he always yelled, "Green side up!" when she told him her color choice, when the colors were all different.
He laughed and replied, "I have a crew of blondes across the street laying sod."

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Tue, 28 Oct 2008 06:37:22 -0000, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

Don Klipstein wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Also, I have heard of some of the cheapies having poor internal
connections. I have even seen some that failed after mere hundreds of
operating hours and mere hundreds of on-off cycles and several months of
storage. I don't know who made those (Chinese cheapie), but I did tell
the product assembler to use something else.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

Have you seen these?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200361182_200361182

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200361181_200361181

Worth getting one of those just to show it off.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Three women are having lunch, discussing their husbands.
The first says, "My husband is cheating on me, I just know it. I found a pair of stockings in his jacket pocket, and they weren't mine!"
The second says, "My husband is cheating on me, I just know it. I found a condom in his wallet, so I poked it full of holes with my sewing needle!"
The third woman fainted.

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <op.ujqx4hmk4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:20:33 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo5i4ze4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote in part:
On 27 Oct 2008 18:46:08 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Never felt one that felt warmer than my own hand.

I just fired up a medium screw base nominally 2 watt 18-LED 120V "bulb"

What on earth can you do with something that dim? You'd need hundreds
of those things to light a room.

Since you claimed in other articles in this thread 11-12 times
efficiency of a European 100W incandescent, it should take only a few
2-watt units with the "proper LEDs" to light a room if your claims are
true. The nominal wattage of 2 watts was for power consumption.

and let it warm up for about 45 minutes. The bulb-like housing screws
off,

For what purpose? Can you swap for different fittings?

Probably to change the light distribution pattern.

making it convenient for me to aim my non-contact thermometer at the
LEDs to see how warm they got:

But what is it picking up? The surface of the LED plastic, or the
inside of the LED?

The surface of the LED plastic. Definitely that, since the plastic is
opaque to the 7-14 nm IR that the non-contact thermometer senses.

The insides of the LEDs are even hotter - heat flows downhill.

45 degrees C in a 23 C ambient.

I don't have my house that warm!

I often have to make an effort to cool my house to even 27 C in
Philadelphia. Even a few days of October usually have Philadelphia
being semi-tropical. And my landlord is often generous with heat, and
during heating season even when I set my heat season to minimum I usually
only have my apartment get below 21 C when something in the heating system
is outright broken or I artificially heat the following-described bulb. My
thermostat is a crude thingie accompanied by a bulb appararently filled
with an oil or a wax that expands to push a valve closed when the bulb
gets warmer.

I have done this with a couple LED work lights, and seen as high as 60
C.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Eeyore]

Peter Hucker wrote:

Isn't FCC just concerned with radio interference and nothing to do with safety?

Yes.

Graham

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <490854A8.91AEF40A@hotmail.com>, Eeyore wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

Isn't FCC just concerned with radio interference and nothing to do
with safety?

Yes.

Yes, that is true. However, CFLs without FCC approval are more likely
to be stool specimens that don't belong on the retail market than ones
that have FCC approval.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[whit3rd]

On Oct 21, 12:22 pm, mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote:

Typical pump drivers seem limited to a few dozen mA.

Do any charge pump drivers exist which can convert 12VDC to +/- 24VDC
at ~ 2A?

Most of these 'charge pump' devices are switch/capacitor devices,
and the power efficiency is poor (under 50% of input power is
delivered to the load).

If your output is to be 2A at +/- 24VDC, that's 100W; use a
switchmode DC/DC converter, with transformer, for that kind
of application.

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 03:19:04 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujqx4hmk4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:20:33 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo5i4ze4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote in part:
On 27 Oct 2008 18:46:08 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Never felt one that felt warmer than my own hand.

I just fired up a medium screw base nominally 2 watt 18-LED 120V "bulb"

What on earth can you do with something that dim? You'd need hundreds
of those things to light a room.

Since you claimed in other articles in this thread 11-12 times
efficiency of a European 100W incandescent, it should take only a few
2-watt units with the "proper LEDs" to light a room if your claims are
true. The nominal wattage of 2 watts was for power consumption.

12 times 2 = 24 watts equivalent. Which is useless. You'd need FOUR times as many of those if you are replacing 100 watt incandescants. The general public won't buy them until they make 40, 60, 100 equivalents.

making it convenient for me to aim my non-contact thermometer at the
LEDs to see how warm they got:

But what is it picking up? The surface of the LED plastic, or the
inside of the LED?

The surface of the LED plastic. Definitely that, since the plastic is
opaque to the 7-14 nm IR that the non-contact thermometer senses.

The insides of the LEDs are even hotter - heat flows downhill.

45 degrees C in a 23 C ambient.

Hmmm, maybe not surprising then. At 15C ambient as it often is here that would be 38C, about body temp.

I don't have my house that warm!

I often have to make an effort to cool my house to even 27 C in
Philadelphia. Even a few days of October usually have Philadelphia
being semi-tropical. And my landlord is often generous with heat, and
during heating season even when I set my heat season to minimum I usually
only have my apartment get below 21 C when something in the heating system
is outright broken or I artificially heat the following-described bulb.. My
thermostat is a crude thingie accompanied by a bulb appararently filled
with an oil or a wax that expands to push a valve closed when the bulb
gets warmer.

I am not comfortable above 15C. This really annoys people in my office as I put the aircon on and they put the heater on!

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

English > German
Indicators ---- Die Blinkenleiten Tickentocken
Bonnet ---- Pullnob und Knucklechopper
Exhaust ---- Die Spitzenpoppenbangentuben
Speedometer ---- Der Egobooster und Linenshooter
Clutch ---- Die Kuplink mit schlippen und shaken
Puncture ---- Die Phlatt mit Bludyfucken
Learner Driver ---- Die Twatten mit Elplatz
Estate Car ---- Der Bagmooroomfurshagginauto
Parking Meter ---- Der Tennerpinscher und Klockenwerr
Windscreen Wiper ---- Der Flippenflappenmuckenschpredder
Footbrake ---- Der Edbangeronvindschreen Stoppend
Gear Lever ---- Biggen Sticken fur Kangaroochoppen
Breathalyser ---- Die Pu titintem fur Pistenarsen
Seat Belt ---- Der Klunkenklikker Frauleintrapper
Headlights ---- Das Dippendontdazzleyubastad
Exhaust Fumes ---- Der Koffenundschpittpoluter
Highway Code ---- Der Wipan fur Arsen
Fog Warning ---- Die Puttenlegdownen und Fukkit
Traffic Jam ---- Die Bluddifukkink Dammundblast
Rear Seat ---- Der Schpringentester
Backfire ---- Der Lowdenbangenmekkenjumpen
Articulated Lorry ---- Der Fukkengrett Trukken
Accident ---- Der Bleedinmess
Near Accident ---- Der Fukken Near Schittsenselfen
Service Station ---- Der Heiway Robberungen
Cyclist ---- Der Pedallpushink Pilloken
Double White lines ---- Overtakenund Krunchen

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 12:18:48 -0000, Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

Isn't FCC just concerned with radio interference and nothing to do with safety?

Yes.

On that topic, do any mobile phones actually have an FCC? I say this because if a mobile phone is in use in close proximity to any amplifier, I get buzzing and bleeping through it. I can always tell mine is about to ring at work (in my pocket) because the computer's soundcard starts making intermittent buzzing noises.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Artifical intellegence is always better than real stupidity.