Chip with simple program for Toy

[Don Klipstein]

In article <49024C19.2000EC90@hotmail.com>, Eeyore wrote:

Michael Black wrote:

The comparison is so people know that a 23watt CFL is about the
same as a 100W bulb.

In the UK they'll try to kid you 18W does it !

My experience in USA "120V land" is that "better" 18-20 watt CFL at
optimum temperature with no aging past a 100 operating-hour break-in
period is a good match to "better" 75 watt incandescents.

And that it takes 25-26 watts for a CFL to "fully match a 100W
'standard' incandescent", with 28 watts no better and 30 watt CFLs
"slightly brighter".

CFLs have major real bigtime advantage in energy efficiency - sadly
often-exaggerated to an extent leading to disappointment and
dissatisfaction! I see so much hype of LED lighting to even-worse-extent!
Ever wonder why lighting-installing electricians are stodgier
conservatives than Ronald Reagan on the job, even if voting for Obama?

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[terryS]

On Oct 20, 11:04 pm, sys_spud <thisoldg...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm a noob doing some projects with the arduino development
environment and learning as I go.

I have a problem with a very simple test circuit I made on a
breadboard consisting of a 9v battery, some jumpers, a switch and an
LED. This is obviously a DC circuit but the switch I'm using is a
Radio Shack AC switch rated at 250VAC and 1.5A. The switch is
connected between +V and GND and works with expected results turning
the LED off and on.

However, in the off position, the 9v battery starts to heat up
significantly. Can somebody hazard a guess as to what is going on? Is
it the switch, do I need a DC-rated switch? Or, can I fix this some
way by adding a resistor, capacitor or diode?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sounds like you have the switch 'across' the battery?

So when the switch is ON it short circuits the battery which won't
last very long and will be ruined.

The battery gets hot because of the excessive amount of current it is
trying to put out. If it's a typical 9 volt (transistor) style battery
it is only designed to provide a few milliamps (a few thousandths) of
an ampere. A short circuit will ruin the battery very quickly.
Although the chemicals inside that make the electrcity may recover
slightly.

It appears that the circuit is mis-wired. Note.

With a more powerful battery (say a 12 volt car battery) by the way a
'short circuit ' like that could cause a fire. If you are interested
read up on "electrical fuses".

Note: Most often a switch goes 'between' the battery and the item to
be powered. When the switch is OFF no electrcity flows. When the
switch is ON electrcity flows 'through' the switch to the item being
powered.

email me if I can be of any help <tsanford@nf.sympatico.ca>

 

On Oct 21, 11:09 am, Jasen Betts <ja...@xnet.co.nz> wrote:

On 2008-10-20, stiganiel...@gmail.com <stiganiel...@gmail.com> wrote:

How should i connect power to the ic of the clockradio if i just want
the display to work, being able to set the hours and minutes. (using
it to display other values i need to read out from my robotic devices)
As earlier described i need to power it from adcsupply.

Hope you can give me some advice on this issue, thanks

you still haven't said what chip it uses, I'll assume "8560"
because that seems to be the most popular one

build this: (view in courier font)

             7V----+------
                     |                  
       +-[18K]-------|--------+          
       |             |        |        
       |    +--------+        |        
       |    |        |        |          
       |    | . . . .|. . . . |           +-[10K]---> Freq
       |    | .   VCC(8)    . |           |
       |    | .             . |           |
       |    +--RES(4) OUT(3)--+-----+-----+-----------> D1  
       |      .   LM555     .       |      
       +-------TH(6)  DIS(7)---     |             .---> D2
       |      .             .       |           |/              
       +-------TR(2)   CV(5)--      +--[560R]---|   PN2222
 100nF |      .             .                   |\| or BC337            
     =====    .   GND(1)    .                    ~\            
       |      . . . .|. . . .                      |        
       |             |                             |          
       +-------------+-----------------------------+--
                     |
                     |                                      
                  ---+-- gnd                                                                                

That should hit the ball park of 60Hz give approximately equal time
on each output and accept sufficient current to drive your LED display

Freq goes to pin 25 and D1 and D2 connect to the display.

if the display is too bright you may need to add some voltage drop by
putting (for example) 3 or 4 1N4001 diodes in series on D1 and D2.
(too bright will wear it out quiickly)

Bye.
   Jasen

hi Jasen,

Thanks for the schematics, It is an 8560 here is the datasheet, <<
http://www.paulanders.com/G5-LED/ver1/datablad.pdf >>

I don't find an lm555 just here in my pile of electronics, but i'd
like to ask if its nessecary to generate a frequency if i just need
the display to show me values given by sensors through my arduino. The
idea was to just use the chip to control the display saving some pins
on my arduino.

(sorry to be such a newbie)

In case i could hook it directly to the arduino with an external power
of 7v dc could i then just give let in 7v to pin 15 or and 20 (Vss,
Vdd)?

Stig

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 05:43:42 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujldreyj4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 23:24:11 +0100, Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Robert Blass wrote:

I have a running debate with someone who claims those 22-watt compact
florescent bulbs which are rated as equal to regular 100 watt
incandescent bulbs.

Just by looking in the room where a new 22-watt compact florescent
bulb is located I can tell a dramatic decrease in lighting. I am being
told the 22-watt compact florescent bulbs are the SAME as the old
rounded 100 watt incandescent bulbs in lumens.

I'm sorry but I disagree. I do not see them as being the same in
lighting power. The new 22-watt compact florescent bulbs seem to be
10-20% dimmer than the older 100 watt incandescent bulbs that were in
the same room.

It's subjective. The light is a different tone of white. Soe people (or some conditions) perceive this to be dimmer.

I use LED lighting anyway.

Yes, that's because they cheat and compare them to a lower efficiency 100W
incandescent bulb that was once popular in various hues for 'mood
lighting'. There were several trade name for them but I don't recall them
now. It used to be in the small print on the boxes but I bet it's gone
now.

Don't you mean ones before "coiled coil" was invented?

Coiled-coil has been around at least since the early 1970's, probably at
least a decade or two longer than that!

When I was about 10 years old (mid 80s), I remember having the choice of standard and coiled coil bulbs. The coiled coil ones were advertised as lasting longer and (I think) being brighter for the same power input.

Also CFLs do lose brightness over their 6000-15000 hor lifetime.

So do incandescents don't they?

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....

Watch for the "design lumens" specified separately from "initial lumens"
when both are specified in a "lamp catalog". Please keep in mind that
"initial lumens" is immediately after a 100 operating hour break-in
period. It appears to me that "design lumens" is what to expect at
roughly 40% of the way through "catalog value life expectancy" (my words).

And not only fluorescents (CFL or otherwise) - I find in my experience
that HID lamps fade more than incandescents do and many have "design
lumens" or "mean lumens" or the like.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

A little boy squirrel and a little girl squirrel were chattering and playing around when up comes a fox.
The girl squirrel dashed up a tree, but the boy squirrel stood his ground.
"You're pretty brave," said the fox. "Usually squirrels are afraid of me and run to the nearest tree!"
"Listen, bud," snarled the boy squirrel. "Did you ever try to climb a tree when you were in love?"

 

[Ken]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:10:04 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com>
wrote:

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....

LEDs fade.

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:50:06 -0000, Ken <ken_3@telia.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:10:04 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....
LEDs fade.

I've not observed this. They either work or they don't. At a certain point they just die open or short circuit.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

After Saddam was captured, eight people were killed and almost
80 wounded by shots fired in the air during celebrations
of the capture.

 

[John Fields]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:52:36 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com>
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:50:06 -0000, Ken <ken_3@telia.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:10:04 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....
LEDs fade.

I've not observed this. They either work or they don't. At a certain point they just die open or short circuit.

---
http://www.lunaraccents.com/educational-white-LED-life.html

Read the first paragraph.

JF

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:57:05 -0000, John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:52:36 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:50:06 -0000, Ken <ken_3@telia.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:10:04 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....
LEDs fade.

I've not observed this. They either work or they don't. At a certain point they just die open or short circuit.

---
http://www.lunaraccents.com/educational-white-LED-life.html

Read the first paragraph.

I see. Probably never seen one get old enough. They have such a long lifespan anyway.

What I have seen are ultrabright LEDs failing prematurely. They don't seem to be very reliable yet. I'm having more luck with ones imported from Japan than British ones. Even then, green seems to be a problem. I notice the lights which fail seem to have different brightnesses for each LED, perhaps they are not precisely matched, so some in each series set are overloading the rest?

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

When Darrell Brown, 48, called IBM customer support for help with a balky laptop computer, the tech entered the serial number of the machine and up flashed a note that the computer had been reported stolen in a burglary.
The tech notified police in Lincoln, Neb., and gave them the man's address.
Police executed a search warrant, recovered the stolen laptop and a gun reported stolen 16 years ago, and arrested Brown on suspicion of burglary. (Lincoln Journal Star)
....Proving that customer support will do anything it can to avoid actually repairing busted laptops.

 

[John Fields]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 17:59:25 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com>
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:57:05 -0000, John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:52:36 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:50:06 -0000, Ken <ken_3@telia.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:10:04 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....
LEDs fade.

I've not observed this. They either work or they don't. At a certain point they just die open or short circuit.

---
http://www.lunaraccents.com/educational-white-LED-life.html

Read the first paragraph.

I see. Probably never seen one get old enough. They have such a long lifespan anyway.

What I have seen are ultrabright LEDs failing prematurely.
They don't seem to be very reliable yet. I'm having more luck with
ones imported from Japan than British ones. Even then, green seems to
be a problem. I notice the lights which fail seem to have different
brightnesses for each LED, perhaps they are not precisely matched, so
some in each series set are overloading the rest?

---
If you make sure that the current into the series set isn't greater than
the rated current of the LEDs then overloading will be impossible since
the current into the string will be the current through any and all of
the LEDs.


JF

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 18:37:46 -0000, John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 17:59:25 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:57:05 -0000, John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:52:36 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:50:06 -0000, Ken <ken_3@telia.com> wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 16:10:04 -0000, "Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com
wrote:

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....
LEDs fade.

I've not observed this. They either work or they don't. At a certain point they just die open or short circuit.

---
http://www.lunaraccents.com/educational-white-LED-life.html

Read the first paragraph.

I see. Probably never seen one get old enough. They have such a long lifespan anyway.

What I have seen are ultrabright LEDs failing prematurely.
They don't seem to be very reliable yet. I'm having more luck with
ones imported from Japan than British ones. Even then, green seems to
be a problem. I notice the lights which fail seem to have different
brightnesses for each LED, perhaps they are not precisely matched, so
some in each series set are overloading the rest?

---
If you make sure that the current into the series set isn't greater than
the rated current of the LEDs then overloading will be impossible since
the current into the string will be the current through any and all of
the LEDs.

I'm referring to commercial prewired ones, as it removes the hassle of creating the housing.

I assume they've done the calculations, but not all LEDs are produced alike, so some sets will need a different resistor. It's not practical in mass production to test every single one and change the resistor.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Giuseppi walks into work, and he says, "Ey, Tony! You know who's-a George Washington?"
Tony says, "No, Giuseppi, who's-a George Washington?"
He says, "Hah! George-a Washington's the first-a President of-a United States. I'm-a go to night school, learn all about-a United States, and become-a U.S.-a citizen."
A couple of days later, Giuseppi walks into work and says, "Ey, Tony, you know who's-a Abraham Lincoln?"
Tony says, "No, Giuseppi, who's-a Abraham Lincoln?"
He says, "Hah! Abaham-a Lincoln is-a sixteenth President of-a the United States. I'm-a go to night school, learn all about-a United States, and become-a U.S.-a citizen."
A guy in the back of the shop yells, "Yo, Giuseppi . . . you know who Fishlips Lorenzo is?"
He says, "No. Who's-a Fishlips Lorenzo is?"
The guy yells, "That's the guy who's bangin' your wife while you're in night school."

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 19:13:47 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujm262fd4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 05:43:42 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujldreyj4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

SNIP until here

Don't you mean ones before "coiled coil" was invented?

Coiled-coil has been around at least since the early 1970's, probably at
least a decade or two longer than that!

When I was about 10 years old (mid 80s), I remember having the choice of
standard and coiled coil bulbs. The coiled coil ones were advertised as
lasting longer and (I think) being brighter for the same power input.

Both singly and doubly coiled ones are still available today. The
"industrial service"/"shock resistant"/"vibration resistant"/"rough duty"
ones tend to have singly coiled filaments. I also saw in recent years in
a few locations Sylvania "economy" incandescents, with both light output
and life expectancy reduced slightly compared to the "standard" ones.

Not what I'd call "economy". Most of the cost of an incandescent is the electricity, so reducing the output is not good.

Also CFLs do lose brightness over their 6000-15000 hor lifetime.

So do incandescents don't they?

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....

That is absolutely *not* true.

The usual figure has been 100,000 hours to fade by half.

Ultrabrights are rated at 50,000, and 30,000 when in a mounting with others, hence warmer.

And most white
ones fare worse because most white ones have phosphors that *will*
degrade.

I'll stick with mixing red green and blues then. Makes the room look nicer anyway.

The very best white ones are specified to degrade by no more
than 30% at 50,000 hours, and that is generally at a junction temperature
somewhere below absolute maximum.

I don't heat the house much, so that should be ok

Some rather decent white LEDs even have life expectancy of only 10,000
hours. I have seen cheaper ones fade by about half in about 4,000 hours.

Ouch!

http://www.philipslumileds.com/pdfs/DS60.pdf

"Industry Best Lumen Maintenance 50,000 hours life at 1000 mA with 70%
lumen maintenance" (on page 1)

"Philips Lumileds projects that white LUXEON K2 with TFFC products will
deliver, on average, 70% lumen maintenance at 50,000 hours of operation at
a forward current of 1000mA. This projection is based on constant current
operation with junction temperture maintained at or below 120°C."

(on page 3)

Just done some calculations on that. Those are extremely inefficient. They don't do much better than an incandescent! The ones I get pre-made from Japan are 12 times as effiecient as an incandescent.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

The two young teens were making out in the family room. The
girl's Mother calls from the top of the stairs, "Honey is that boy
there yet?"

She replies breathlessly, "No Ma. Not yet. But he's getting there."

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <op.ujm262fd4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 05:43:42 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujldreyj4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

<SNIP until here>

Don't you mean ones before "coiled coil" was invented?

Coiled-coil has been around at least since the early 1970's, probably at
least a decade or two longer than that!

When I was about 10 years old (mid 80s), I remember having the choice of
standard and coiled coil bulbs. The coiled coil ones were advertised as
lasting longer and (I think) being brighter for the same power input.

Both singly and doubly coiled ones are still available today. The
"industrial service"/"shock resistant"/"vibration resistant"/"rough duty"
ones tend to have singly coiled filaments. I also saw in recent years in
a few locations Sylvania "economy" incandescents, with both light output
and life expectancy reduced slightly compared to the "standard" ones.

Also CFLs do lose brightness over their 6000-15000 hor lifetime.

So do incandescents don't they?

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....

That is absolutely *not* true.

The usual figure has been 100,000 hours to fade by half. And most white
ones fare worse because most white ones have phosphors that *will*
degrade. The very best white ones are specified to degrade by no more
than 30% at 50,000 hours, and that is generally at a junction temperature
somewhere below absolute maximum.

Some rather decent white LEDs even have life expectancy of only 10,000
hours. I have seen cheaper ones fade by about half in about 4,000 hours.

http://www.philipslumileds.com/pdfs/DS60.pdf

"Industry Best Lumen Maintenance 50,000 hours life at 1000 mA with 70%
lumen maintenance" (on page 1)

"Philips Lumileds projects that white LUXEON K2 with TFFC products will
deliver, on average, 70% lumen maintenance at 50,000 hours of operation at
a forward current of 1000mA. This projection is based on constant current
operation with junction temperture maintained at or below 120°C."

(on page 3)

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Eeyore]

Don Klipstein wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Michael Black wrote:

The comparison is so people know that a 23watt CFL is about the
same as a 100W bulb.

In the UK they'll try to kid you 18W does it !

My experience in USA "120V land" is that "better" 18-20 watt CFL at
optimum temperature with no aging past a 100 operating-hour break-in
period is a good match to "better" 75 watt incandescents.

Yes, I think you're about right there.

And that it takes 25-26 watts for a CFL to "fully match a 100W
'standard' incandescent", with 28 watts no better and 30 watt CFLs
"slightly brighter".

Now try buying one ?

CFLs have major real bigtime advantage in energy efficiency - sadly
often-exaggerated to an extent leading to disappointment and
dissatisfaction! I see so much hype of LED lighting to even-worse-extent!
Ever wonder why lighting-installing electricians are stodgier
conservatives than Ronald Reagan on the job, even if voting for Obama?

I found the 'small print' btw. It is actually still on a recent Philips CFL
box. It says ....
"Uses 5 times less electricity.* Light output measured according to IEC 969
standards, compared to a 1000 hr SOFT COLOUR (my caps) bulb of similar ligh
output".

Soft colour = lower efficiency. FOUR times less is nearer the mark when
compared to standard GLS bulbs.

*SOFTONE* ! That was the brand name. See this
http://www.nextag.co.uk/Philips-100W-Softone-BC-528595584/uk/prices-html

and this
http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/product/1062/philips-soft-white-t55-100w-bc-2-pack/



Graham

 

[Eeyore]

Peter Hucker wrote:

When I was about 10 years old (mid 80s), I remember having the choice of standard and coiled coil bulbs. The coiled coil ones were advertised as lasting longer and (I think) being brighter for the same power input.

I do recall 'coiled coil' being made an issue of but I reckoned it was more in the 70s. And they are brighter IIRC.

Also CFLs do lose brightness over their 6000-15000 hor lifetime.

So do incandescents don't they?

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

I agree from experience.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....

Sure ?

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

Ken wrote:

"Peter Hucker" <none@spam.com> wrote:

Actually, CFLs and fluorescents in general tend to fade over their
life expectancy more than at least gas-filled incandescents do.

LEDs don't fade at all during their 30,000 hour life.....

LEDs fade.

I thought so too. Else, what mechanism would mark end of life as
semiconductors can go on for 100,000 power-on hrs plus ?

Graham

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <op.ujnc1zo24buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 19:13:47 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujm262fd4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On 26 Oct 08 05:43:42 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

Both singly and doubly coiled ones are still available today. The
"industrial service"/"shock resistant"/"vibration resistant"/"rough duty"
ones tend to have singly coiled filaments. I also saw in recent years in
a few locations Sylvania "economy" incandescents, with both light output
and life expectancy reduced slightly compared to the "standard" ones.

Not what I'd call "economy". Most of the cost of an incandescent is the
electricity, so reducing the output is not good.

I certainly agree here! I'm glad those "economy" cheapies by Sylvania
are not common!

Some rather decent white LEDs even have life expectancy of only 10,000
hours. I have seen cheaper ones fade by about half in about 4,000 hours.

Ouch!

http://www.philipslumileds.com/pdfs/DS60.pdf

"Industry Best Lumen Maintenance 50,000 hours life at 1000 mA with 70%
lumen maintenance" (on page 1)

"Philips Lumileds projects that white LUXEON K2 with TFFC products will
deliver, on average, 70% lumen maintenance at 50,000 hours of operation at
a forward current of 1000mA. This projection is based on constant current
operation with junction temperture maintained at or below 120°C."

(on page 3)

Just done some calculations on that. Those are extremely inefficient.
They don't do much better than an incandescent! The ones I get pre-made
from Japan are 12 times as effiecient as an incandescent.

Can you provide a link to mfr, part number and a datasheet?

The most efficient laboratory prototype LED that I have heard of
achieved 150 lumens/watt at a usual amount of current (20 mA).

http://www.nichia.com/about_nichia/2006/2006_122001.html

Another achieced about 170 lumens/watt at an efficiency-maximizing
current of a few percent of the amount it was made for, and 136
lumens/watt at the "characterizing current". 136 lumens/watt is the
world record for a single chip LED at 350 mA.

http://www.led-professional.com/content/view/1086/61/

The most efficient LEDs on the market are achieving 100 lumens/watt
at usual amounts of current, and maybe 120 when moderately severely
underpowered.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Eeyore]

Peter Hucker wrote:

What I have seen are ultrabright LEDs failing prematurely.

Inadequate heatsinking would be my first bet.

Graham

 

[ian field]

"pom" <pom@orange.fr> wrote in message
news:48e9bfca$0$911$ba4acef3@news.orange.fr...

BobW a écrit :


The manufacturers' claims include the large amount of gamma radiation
that the CFLs put out, so it is a bit misleading.

Bob
Hello.
I think that you confound UV radiation and the higher energy
electromagnetic radiation as x-ray or gamma.
With the available voltage (230V or even less) you will get only a very
modest amount of ultraviolet (which is immediately coverted into visible
light by the flUorescent coating of the lamp).
pom

There was a warning on UK news programmes recently that the UV output is
above recommended guidelines - but only within a foot or two of the folded
tube.

 

[John Larkin]

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 19:24:51 GMT, "Kevin Aylward"
<kaExtractThis@kevinaylward.co.uk> wrote:

John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 18:46:08 GMT, "Kevin Aylward"
kaExtractThis@kevinaylward.co.uk> wrote:

John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 17:33:20 GMT, "Kevin Aylward"
kaExtractThis@kevinaylward.co.uk> wrote:

John Fields wrote:
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 19:32:49 GMT, "Kevin Aylward"
kaExtractThis@kevinaylward.co.uk> wrote:

I mean, why should I build it? What possible purpose could that
serve, that would not be known already?

---
Wiring has a nasty habit of upsetting perfectly loaded applecarts.


And it what way do the properties of "wiring" transcend the laws of
physics such that such "wiring" is unable to be inclued in
simulations?

I'm guessing that the output fets will RF oscillate big time.
Especially with those nice gate-gate caps downstream of the gate
resistors.

Yes...and er... as now doubt well known in this NG, by now, the
mosfet1000 was designed in 1982. Just where do you guess, was the
placement of the mosfet gate resistors, such that the amp actually
worked? Unfortunately, no pack of Guinness for the correct answer.

It's the gate-gate caps that mystify me, downstream of the gate
resistors. Looks like party time for RF oscillations.

Oh ...you are referring I believe, to my circuit never built. This is so
that when you run 1Mhz square waves, there is not a gigantic shoot through
current. I would have thought my ideal voltage sources would be more of an
issue to complain about.

This actually brings up a subtle point. In my opinion, if one uses the other
way round connection, i.e. the final output being a drain output, you can
never eliminate shoot through currents for very fast signals, even when
otherwise, topological aspects dictate that there is no fundamental
advantage of disadvantage.

Just drive the gates intelligently.

Both topologies can develop some shoot-through from Cg-d couplings, so
it helps a lot to have a separate, very stiff gate driver per fet, to
soak up that extra gate current. This also helps kill some oscillation
modes associated with load resonances.

If shoot-through is bad enough to cause problems, just poke a little
feed-forward drive into the gate that's about to turn off, enough to
cancel the unwanted conduction.

John

 

[ian field]

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4904D5CA.4A605792@hotmail.com...

Don Klipstein wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Michael Black wrote:

The comparison is so people know that a 23watt CFL is about the
same as a 100W bulb.

In the UK they'll try to kid you 18W does it !

My experience in USA "120V land" is that "better" 18-20 watt CFL at
optimum temperature with no aging past a 100 operating-hour break-in
period is a good match to "better" 75 watt incandescents.

Yes, I think you're about right there.

Years back when Morrisons dropped the price of their 20W CFLs to Ł1.99 I
changed over but I was very disappointed with the light quality, my living
room has two light fittings and both had to be on for any kind of comfort to
my eyes, more recently they did a massive promo on Philips 18W CFLs - first
dropping the price to 0.99p and then a BOGOF offer as well. These are
actually very slightly brighter than the original own brand CFLs but I've
still had to resort to 2-lamp adapters so I can use just 1 fitting on except
when I'm working at my desk or reading when I need both fittings (4 18W CFLs
in all ) on.