Chip with simple program for Toy

[Don Klipstein]

In article <op.ujsulvyf4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 03:19:04 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujqx4hmk4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On 27 Oct 2008 20:20:33 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo5i4ze4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote in part:
On 27 Oct 2008 18:46:08 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Never felt one that felt warmer than my own hand.

I just fired up a medium screw base nominally 2 watt 18-LED 120V "bulb"

What on earth can you do with something that dim? You'd need hundreds
of those things to light a room.

Since you claimed in other articles in this thread 11-12 times
efficiency of a European 100W incandescent, it should take only a few
2-watt units with the "proper LEDs" to light a room if your claims are
true. The nominal wattage of 2 watts was for power consumption.

12 times 2 = 24 watts equivalent. Which is useless. You'd need FOUR
times as many of those if you are replacing 100 watt incandescants. The
general public won't buy them until they make 40, 60, 100 equivalents.

A 2-watt LED "lightbulb" will only achieve equivalence to roughly 25
watt incandescents even if achieving about 100 lumens/watt efficiency.

But then again, there are the 3-watt and a few 4-watt ones and a few of
higher wattages. If they achieve so much as 75 lumens/watt, a 5-watt one
should be a contender against 40 watt incandescents. If LEDs achieve 12
times the efficiency of 60 watt incandescents, then a 5 watt LED "light
bulb" should match the luminous output of a 60 watt incandescent.
I suspect that lack of 5 watt LED "bulbs" being equivalent to 60 watt
incandescents means low existence of LEDs 12 times as efficient or
"luminously efficacious" as incandescents.
Heck, I know of "better" "LED lighting fixtures" consuming about 11 watts
in order to do what a 60 watt incandescent can do. Check out the lumens
out per watt in for Cree Lighting's LR-6 and LR-4 units - appears to me to
be in the 60's and sometimes upper 50's!
And it appears to me that USA DoE's "caliper" program has yet to find
any arguably-practical LED lighting product being more efficient than
60's!

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 04:27:24 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujsulvyf4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 03:19:04 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In article <op.ujqx4hmk4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote:
On 27 Oct 2008 20:20:33 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

In <op.ujo5i4ze4buhsv@fx62.mshome.net>, Peter Hucker wrote in part:
On 27 Oct 2008 18:46:08 -0000, Don Klipstein <don@manx.misty.com> wrote:

I usually see white LEDs receiving enough power to make them get warm.

Never felt one that felt warmer than my own hand.

I just fired up a medium screw base nominally 2 watt 18-LED 120V "bulb"

What on earth can you do with something that dim? You'd need hundreds
of those things to light a room.

Since you claimed in other articles in this thread 11-12 times
efficiency of a European 100W incandescent, it should take only a few
2-watt units with the "proper LEDs" to light a room if your claims are
true. The nominal wattage of 2 watts was for power consumption.

12 times 2 = 24 watts equivalent. Which is useless. You'd need FOUR
times as many of those if you are replacing 100 watt incandescants. The
general public won't buy them until they make 40, 60, 100 equivalents..

A 2-watt LED "lightbulb" will only achieve equivalence to roughly 25
watt incandescents even if achieving about 100 lumens/watt efficiency.

But then again, there are the 3-watt and a few 4-watt ones and a few of
higher wattages. If they achieve so much as 75 lumens/watt, a 5-watt one
should be a contender against 40 watt incandescents. If LEDs achieve 12
times the efficiency of 60 watt incandescents, then a 5 watt LED "light
bulb" should match the luminous output of a 60 watt incandescent.
I suspect that lack of 5 watt LED "bulbs" being equivalent to 60 watt
incandescents means low existence of LEDs 12 times as efficient or
"luminously efficacious" as incandescents.
Heck, I know of "better" "LED lighting fixtures" consuming about 11 watts
in order to do what a 60 watt incandescent can do. Check out the lumens
out per watt in for Cree Lighting's LR-6 and LR-4 units - appears to me to
be in the 60's and sometimes upper 50's!
And it appears to me that USA DoE's "caliper" program has yet to find
any arguably-practical LED lighting product being more efficient than
60's!

Ah well, I'll have to stick to making my own.

The brightest I've ever bought as a commercial product was 120 LEDs consuming 6 watts and claiming 100 watt equivalent. It looked more like 60 watt equivalent to me. It was an ES (they also did bayonet) large PAR spotlight shape. It lasted 1 month with normal household usage before one third of the LEDs went out. Another third went after another month. Then the whole lot went out a month later.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

What comes after 69?
Mouthwash.

 

[Rich Klestinez]

Duodecobenzinesulfonicacid. Used to make Melamine and some water based foam
when reacted with urea. The Chinese have loads of the stuff. They use it
in their kids formula as a stretcher along with ethylene glycol as a
sweetener. Diluted 100:1 with water it will clean corrosion off most
metals. Also used as a major ingredient in car wash soap as an aluminum
brightener. Stinky stuff. Been there done that in my prior work life. If
ingested over a period of time it will kill you slowly. Kills Cats faster.

Rich
Texas USA


"Bob Masta" <N0Spam@daqarta.com> wrote in message
news:48fc8269.1659209@news.sysmatrix.net...

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 10:04:20 -0700, "W. eWatson"
notvalid2@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

I have a female BNR connector that I think needs oxidation removed from
inside. It's a bit too tight for emery paper. Any suggestions?
--
W. eWatson


Before you give up and replace it, you might try
one of those liquid tarnish removers. The one I
have is called "Tarn-X", but it is decades old so
I don't know if they are still in business.

Basically, you dip the part in the solution for a
moment and then rinse it off THOROUGHLY.
The label says it contains "acidified thiourea,
detergent, and corrosion inhibitors." Probably
not the kind of stuff you want on electronic
parts! However, I have used it on ancient DIPs
that had silver plated leads, so oxidized as to be
unsolderable. The magic liquid cleaned them
instantly, and I never had any later problems
with the circuit.

Best regards,


Bob Masta

DAQARTA v4.51
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Sound Level Meter
FREE Signal Generator
Science with your sound card!

 

[Sean Peters]

Matthew <canitch@gmail.com> writes:
<snip>

I am working for a ccfl driver producer, some of the ccfl monitors in
the present market use analog dimming. i don't know if you still have
problem with this kind of monitor. or maybe led backlight is your best
choice.

I've not found a flourescent light of any kind that is not a problem
to me. I've been assuming that it's physically not possible to drive
a flourescent light in a way that prevents it from flickering. Is it
possible? Do you have any spectrum analysis results of fluorescent
light flicker?

By the way, can you watch film in a cinema? I think a film has a
really low frequency flicker.

Actually i've only been to the cinema a couple of times since i've had
this problem (about 5 years ago, it started after i got Glandular
Fever). But from what i can remember, the flicker wasn't really a big
problem. Not as bad for me as a monitor.

Sean

 

[Bob Myers]

"Sean Peters" <sean.peters@notarealemailaddress.com> wrote in message
news:87zlkke5pu.fsf@eddie.wibble.net...

I've not found a flourescent light of any kind that is not a problem
to me. I've been assuming that it's physically not possible to drive
a flourescent light in a way that prevents it from flickering. Is it
possible? Do you have any spectrum analysis results of fluorescent
light flicker?

Any such light source will have some level of flicker
component in its output; the question is whether or not
the flicker will be perceptible. I seriously question whether
it is actually flicker that gives you your trouble with
fluorescent lights, at least in the case of LCD backlighting.

By the way, can you watch film in a cinema? I think a film has a
really low frequency flicker.

Actually i've only been to the cinema a couple of times since i've had
this problem (about 5 years ago, it started after i got Glandular
Fever). But from what i can remember, the flicker wasn't really a big
problem. Not as bad for me as a monitor.

Which again makes me think that it's not flicker that's
causing you a problem with monitors. Movies are
FAR worse in terms of flicker than an LCD.

Bob M.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2008-10-31, Sean Peters <sean.peters@notarealemailaddress.com> wrote:

I've not found a flourescent light of any kind that is not a problem
to me. I've been assuming that it's physically not possible to drive
a flourescent light in a way that prevents it from flickering. Is it
possible? Do you have any spectrum analysis results of fluorescent
light flicker?

it's possible - you can drive them with DC, but then you get bright
and dark bands, it looks kind of neat as the band move as you adjust
the voltage, but I don't think it'svery good for the tube.

using a higher AC frequency should reduce the visible flicker

By the way, can you watch film in a cinema? I think a film has a
really low frequency flicker.

48 or 72 hz depends how many lobes on the shutter.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Olivier Scalbert]

John Fields wrote:

Empirically.

In the simulator, what I did was (with 0V into R1) arbitrarily choose R6
and R8 at 1000 ohms and then adjusted R4 and R5 for 30mA of current
through both MOSFETs.

In the real world, what I'd do would be to replace the resistors with
1000 ohm pots, like this: (View in Courier)

+----------------------------+
| |
+V>---------------------|---+----------+-------+ |
| | | | |
| | | D |
[510] | [POT]<--G NCH |
| | | S |
| | [DIODE] | |
VIN>-------------[100]--+--|-\ |K | |
| >--------+ +-----+
+--|+/ |A | |
| | [DIODE] | [LOAD]
[82] | | S |
| | [POT]<--G PCH GND
GND | | D
| | |
-V>-------------------------+----------+-------+

Then, before applying power I'd make sure Vin was grounded and the pots
were cranked to zero ohms between the gates and the diodes.

After that, I'd apply power and crank one of the pots until I got 30mA
through the load and then crank the other pot until the current through
the load fell to zero.

That 30 mA will now be in both MOSFETs and will be the current causing
the stage to run AB which will kill crossover distortion. Also, the
load will be DC coupled to the input and will be at zero volts with zero
volts on Vin, which is what you want.

There also probably needs to be some soft-start circuitry in there
somewhere to protect the load and the MOSFETS against power-on
transients from the opamp. Something as simple as a relay momentarily
shorting the opamp's output to ground during power-on should work:


+V-----+--------+------+ NC
| | | |<-O------+
| [DIODE] [COIL]- - -| |
[R] |A | C O |
| +------+ | |+\ |
| | | | >--+-->TO DIODES
| C | |-/
+------B |
| E |
[C] | |
| | |
GND>---+--------+---------------+

JF

Hi JF,

If I build it in real, how can I measure the current in the MOSFETS ?
Should I put small resitors in the sources (or drains) ?

Olivier

 

[John Fields]

On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 14:36:39 +0100, Olivier Scalbert
<olivier.scalbert@algosyn.com> wrote:

John Fields wrote:
Empirically.

In the simulator, what I did was (with 0V into R1) arbitrarily choose R6
and R8 at 1000 ohms and then adjusted R4 and R5 for 30mA of current
through both MOSFETs.

In the real world, what I'd do would be to replace the resistors with
1000 ohm pots, like this: (View in Courier)

+----------------------------+
| |
+V>---------------------|---+----------+-------+ |
| | | | |
| | | D |
[510] | [POT]<--G NCH |
| | | S |
| | [DIODE] | |
VIN>-------------[100]--+--|-\ |K | |
| >--------+ +-----+
+--|+/ |A | |
| | [DIODE] | [LOAD]
[82] | | S |
| | [POT]<--G PCH GND
GND | | D
| | |
-V>-------------------------+----------+-------+

Then, before applying power I'd make sure Vin was grounded and the pots
were cranked to zero ohms between the gates and the diodes.

After that, I'd apply power and crank one of the pots until I got 30mA
through the load and then crank the other pot until the current through
the load fell to zero.

That 30 mA will now be in both MOSFETs and will be the current causing
the stage to run AB which will kill crossover distortion. Also, the
load will be DC coupled to the input and will be at zero volts with zero
volts on Vin, which is what you want.

There also probably needs to be some soft-start circuitry in there
somewhere to protect the load and the MOSFETS against power-on
transients from the opamp. Something as simple as a relay momentarily
shorting the opamp's output to ground during power-on should work:


+V-----+--------+------+ NC
| | | |<-O------+
| [DIODE] [COIL]- - -| |
[R] |A | C O |
| +------+ | |+\ |
| | | | >--+-->TO DIODES
| C | |-/
+------B |
| E |
[C] | |
| | |
GND>---+--------+---------------+

JF

Hi JF,

If I build it in real, how can I measure the current in the MOSFETS ?
Should I put small resitors in the sources (or drains) ?

---
No, just use the voltage dropped across the load to calculate the
current.

For 30mA into 8 ohms, say, you'd have:

E = IR = 0.03A * 8R = 0.240 volts

Then, before applying power make sure Vin is grounded and the pots
are cranked to zero ohms between the gates and the diodes.

After that, apply power and crank one of the pots until there's 240mV
across the load. Then crank the other pot until the voltage across
the load falls to zero, and you're done.


JF

 

[Olivier Scalbert]

John Fields wrote:

Not necessarily.

As John Popelish noted, using negative feedback and providing a little
bias when the input is at zero volts will force the output to be at zero
volts during those times.

Run this to see how it could be done:

Version 4
SHEET 1 1476 680
JF

I still have a question ...
Gain is R3/R4.
If I want to increase the gain let say to 10, is it better to increase
R3/R4 or put an other amp-op as preamp in front ?

Olivier

 

[John Fields]

On Tue, 04 Nov 2008 19:40:12 +0100, Olivier Scalbert
<olivier.scalbert@algosyn.com> wrote:

John Fields wrote:
Not necessarily.

As John Popelish noted, using negative feedback and providing a little
bias when the input is at zero volts will force the output to be at zero
volts during those times.

Run this to see how it could be done:

Version 4
SHEET 1 1476 680
JF

I still have a question ...
Gain is R3/R4.
If I want to increase the gain let say to 10, is it better to increase
R3/R4 or put an other amp-op as preamp in front ?

---
R3/R4 sounds funny; on my LTspice schematic it's R3/R2.

Anyway, whatever the reference designations are, here's how it should be
with the gain set to 10 by R2/R1.


+----------------------------+
| |
+V>---------------------|---+----------+-------+ |
| | | | |
| | |1K D |
R2[1000] | R4 [POT]<--G NCH |
| | | S Q1 |
R1 | | CR1[1N4148] | |
VIN>-------------[100]--+--|-\ |K | |
| >--------+ +-----+
+--|+/ |A | |
| | CR2[1N4148] | [LOAD]
R3[91] | | S |
| | R5 [POT]<--G PCH GND
GND | |1K D Q2
| | |
-V>-------------------------+----------+-------+


JF

 

[Olivier Scalbert]

John Fields wrote:
Ooops wrong schema !
Yes it is R2/R1 !

My question was more on stability.
Is it better to but a 10x preamp in front of U1 and set R2/R1 = 1 or
just R2/R1 = 10 ?

Olivier

---
R3/R4 sounds funny; on my LTspice schematic it's R3/R2.

Anyway, whatever the reference designations are, here's how it should be
with the gain set to 10 by R2/R1.


+----------------------------+
| |
+V>---------------------|---+----------+-------+ |
| | | | |
| | |1K D |
R2[1000] | R4 [POT]<--G NCH |
| | | S Q1 |
R1 | | CR1[1N4148] | |
VIN>-------------[100]--+--|-\ |K | |
| >--------+ +-----+
+--|+/ |A | |
| | CR2[1N4148] | [LOAD]
R3[91] | | S |
| | R5 [POT]<--G PCH GND
GND | |1K D Q2
| | |
-V>-------------------------+----------+-------+


JF

 

[John Fields]

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 00:35:48 +0100, Olivier Scalbert
<olivier.scalbert@algosyn.com> wrote:

John Fields wrote:

R3/R4 sounds funny; on my LTspice schematic it's R3/R2.

Anyway, whatever the reference designations are, here's how it should be
with the gain set to 10 by R2/R1.


+----------------------------+
| |
+V>---------------------|---+----------+-------+ |
| | | | |
| | |1K D |
R2[1000] | R4 [POT]<--G NCH |
| | | S Q1 |
R1 | | CR1[1N4148] | |
VIN>-------------[100]--+--|-\ |K | |
| >--------+ +-----+
+--|+/ |A | |
| | CR2[1N4148] | [LOAD]
R3[91] | | S |
| | R5 [POT]<--G PCH GND
GND | |1K D Q2
| | |
-V>-------------------------+----------+-------+

---

Ooops wrong schema !
Yes it is R2/R1 !

My question was more on stability.
Is it better to but a 10x preamp in front of U1 and set R2/R1 = 1 or
just R2/R1 = 10 ?

---
Please bottom post.

It's not a question of stability, it's a question of noise and if you
can stand the 100 ohm input resistance.

JF

 

[Lord Garth]

<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:10c52d0c-b81a-44bc-ac6e-6b5395f3edc0@c36g2000prc.googlegroups.com...

On Nov 6, 2:03 pm, z <gzuck...@snail-mail.net> wrote:
On Nov 6, 4:24 pm, zekfr...@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:



In article
b2c97740-15e7-4b5e-894e-ec498f3d9...@g17g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, z
gzuck...@snail-mail.net> wrote:

On Nov 6, 2:48 pm, "Arny Krueger" <ar...@hotpop.com> wrote:
"sal2" <s...@sal2.com> wrote in message

newsan.2008.11.06.17.41.59@sal2.com

How can I increasing output voltage/amplify my laptop's
sound card headphone jack. Tia sal2

Greetings All

I'm generating different sound waves using my laptop
and outputting the sound via my laptop's sound card
headphone jack.

I need to increase the output voltage / amplify the output
signal to at least 5v while not adding to much noise to
the signal. What's the best way to go about this?
Preamp/Amplifier/mixer Can anyone recommend a low cost
solution?

Try a Boostaroo headphone amp, which RS calls a 33-118.

if you're going that route, might try the FIIO amp; they're selling
all over ebay for like $4 plus postage from the far east. i got mine
from an outfit called justforlive2008, and it arrived within less than
a week for $3.59 postage, right to the house without my having to go
to the store. that's cheaper than us postage, and faster.

I only compute 2v for that device. Meaning its power supply should
develope at least
6 volts with the 1.5 v battery.

greg- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

good point, you're not going to get 5 volts with an aa battery as
power source. i'm an idiot, just ignore me babbling in the corner from
now on....


boost converter?

You need more current to make it louder. Why are you thinking external
audio amp?
What are you trying to drive? There are battery powered external speakers
available.

 

[please_post_to_groups]

Most PC's only have a left and right channel so I could possible get 2 channels out at the same time I'm not sure where
you are getting the other 6 from.

 

[BobG]

On Nov 12, 7:24 pm, please_post_to_groups
<please_post_to_groups@post_to_groups_please.com> wrote:

Most PC's only have a left and right channel so I could possible get 2 channels out at the same time I'm not sure where
 you are getting the other 6 from.  
=============================================My solution gave the mono sum of the 8 waves. You want an 'octaphonic'

output. I guess you could rent or buy a monitor mixer with 8 mixes and
8 delay lines and test an 8 channel phased array. I predict the beam
will steer in the direction of the phase lag. What do you predict?

 

[TE Chea]

If some1 replied during 17th -31st Oct'08, pls repost ; my
ISP 's news server was down & now shows no post in this
period.

 

[Kevin]

"TE Chea" <4ws@gmail.com> wrote in news:49211926_1@news.tm.net.my:

If some1 replied during 17th -31st Oct'08, pls repost ; my
ISP 's news server was down & now shows no post in this
period.

go check google to see what you missed. KB

--
THUNDERSNAKE #9

Protect your rights or "Lose" them
The 2nd Admendment guarantees the others

 

[TE Chea]

| go check google to see what you missed. KB

I'm amazed to see many of my posts to newsgroups listed by
Google, but cannot find any reply to this thread. Does Google
run a newsgroup service like some ISP`s do ?

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2008-11-18, TE Chea <4ws@gmail.com> wrote:

| go check google to see what you missed. KB

I'm amazed to see many of my posts to newsgroups listed by
Google, but cannot find any reply to this thread. Does Google
run a newsgroup service like some ISP`s do ?

no. their newsgroup service is unique! http://groups.google.com

most users who post through it use it to send spam, so many people
have it filtered. however it's free, easily accessable, and
searchable.

BTW: looks like you got no replies.

what are you hoping to gain by this substitution?

 

[TE Chea]

| no. their newsgroup service is unique! http://groups.google.com
| most users who post through it use it to send spam, so many people
| have it filtered. however it's free, easily accessable, and
| searchable.
| BTW: looks like you got no replies.
Thanks for reply.

| what are you hoping to gain by this substitution?
I want to see any reply to this thread ( I thought this wish
was obvious ).