audio recording on IC -help wanted

[HapticZ]

same issue with Garmin GPS 38

lcd has random horizontal rows of missing segements,no refelction or
change

dissassembly yielded soldered flex circuits with no apparent break or
corrosion.

it appears the driver chip has actually failed,i am sad, i liked this cheapy
unit.

but good news, the data port still works and the unit remains accurate and
provides good position data!

<willisl@iupui.edu> wrote in message
news:338dd61d-f14f-4beb-91cd-530d42dd140e@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

The LCD on our landline phones has become illegible. Is there a way to
restore the LCD, or do we just go get new phones?

Thanks.

Lynn Willis

 

[Chris S]

On Sat 17 May 2008 16:06:08, willisl@iupui.edu wrote:

The LCD on our landline phones has become illegible. Is there a
way to restore the LCD, or do we just go get new phones?

Thanks.

Lynn Willis

My old Nokia cellphone became harder to read.

It turned out that the contacts on the LCD were not making good
connections with the circuit. The LCD unit was just physically held in
place against the circuit board.

Maybe something similar on your landline?

 

[Dave Platt]

howdy all,

I am trying to replace a transistor 2SD829. Here is a link to a data
sheet. http://www.datasheets.org.uk/pdf/3937549.pdf

I need the replacements asap so common replacement would be great.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

As this is a somewhat unusual package, I suspect you're going to find
it difficult to find a direct drop-in replacement.

Depending on the circuit application, you might be able to substitute
a more modern sort of part. It looks as if the 2SD829 is a power
Darlington, intended for use as a saturated switch. It might be
possible to adapt the circuit to use something like an IGBT, and use a
different package which can be mounted on the existing heat-sink.

Take a look at the International Rectifier IGBTs (they're page 992 and
993 in the last-year's Digi-Key catalog I have here).

There appear to be some tradeoffs in the selection. The 250-volt
parts in TO-247 packages have Vcd(sat) values similar to those of the
2SD829, and much higher pulse- and continuous-current and
power-dissipation ratings, but don't have an internal reverse diode.

The parts that do have an internal reverse diode, and current and
power ratings which match or exceed those of the 2SD829, all seem to
have a slightly higher Vce(sat)... but as these are at a higher
current level, this may not be an issue.

As one possible example: the IRG4PC40 is a 600-volt part, in a
TO-247AC package, with Vce(sat) maximum of 1.85 volts, 49-amp
continuous current rating at 25 degrees C, pulse current IC(max) of
200 amps, 160-watt maximum power dissipation, and it has an internal
reverse diode. You *might* need an external gate-pulldown resistor,
or might not, depending in the circuit driving it (and might need a
series resistor of a few ohms on the gate to avoid snivets, if the
existing bipolar-drive base resistor won't serve). $5.74 in onesies
in last year's catalog (the newer ROHS equivalent part IRG4PC40PBF
is a couple of bucks more).

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

howdy all,

I am trying to replace a transistor 2SD829. Here is a link to a data
sheet. http://www.datasheets.org.uk/pdf/3937549.pdf

I need the replacements asap so common replacement would be great.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

As this is a somewhat unusual package, I suspect you're going to find
it difficult to find a direct drop-in replacement.

Depending on the circuit application, you might be able to substitute
a more modern sort of part. It looks as if the 2SD829 is a power
Darlington, intended for use as a saturated switch. It might be
possible to adapt the circuit to use something like an IGBT, and use a
different package which can be mounted on the existing heat-sink.

Take a look at the International Rectifier IGBTs (they're page 992 and
993 in the last-year's Digi-Key catalog I have here).

There appear to be some tradeoffs in the selection. The 250-volt
parts in TO-247 packages have Vcd(sat) values similar to those of the
2SD829, and much higher pulse- and continuous-current and
power-dissipation ratings, but don't have an internal reverse diode.

The parts that do have an internal reverse diode, and current and
power ratings which match or exceed those of the 2SD829, all seem to
have a slightly higher Vce(sat)... but as these are at a higher
current level, this may not be an issue.

As one possible example: the IRG4PC40 is a 600-volt part, in a
TO-247AC package, with Vce(sat) maximum of 1.85 volts, 49-amp
continuous current rating at 25 degrees C, pulse current IC(max) of
200 amps, 160-watt maximum power dissipation, and it has an internal
reverse diode. You *might* need an external gate-pulldown resistor,
or might not, depending in the circuit driving it (and might need a
series resistor of a few ohms on the gate to avoid snivets, if the
existing bipolar-drive base resistor won't serve). $5.74 in onesies
in last year's catalog (the newer ROHS equivalent part IRG4PC40PBF
is a couple of bucks more).

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <kOGYj.8$yV1.2@fe127.usenetserver.com>,
Gary L. Woodruff <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote:

Thanks for the info. I only have a small pcb with a few diodes and
resistors, a couple of relays, and the transistor. It is a forklift
circuit so I believe it is 24 volt. I have plenty of space on the board
to mount any type package. I would rather have a closer match for the
circuit but in a different package, if possible. I really appreciate
your help.

Hmmm. Well, high-power Darlingtons seem to have fallen out of favor
with industry - I imagine that power MOSFETs and IGBTs have proven
superior - both are easier to drive, and MOSFETs are faster to switch.

I did a search at Digi-Key for NPN Darlingtons, 20 amps or above, in
most of the common power packages. The only one they list in a TO-247
plastic package is the ST Microelectronics SGSD100, which is a
non-stock item with a big minimum order.

They do have two stock parts by ON Semiconductor - the MJ11016G and
MJ11032G (120-volt parts, 30 and 50 amperes respectively). These are
both in the classic TO-3 metal package. You'd need to add your own
collector/emitter flyback diode.

I just don't think you're going to have much luck finding a high-power
Darlington with a built-in diode these days, unless you find somebody
who actually happens to have a few New Old Stock parts.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <kOGYj.8$yV1.2@fe127.usenetserver.com>,
Gary L. Woodruff <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote:

Thanks for the info. I only have a small pcb with a few diodes and
resistors, a couple of relays, and the transistor. It is a forklift
circuit so I believe it is 24 volt. I have plenty of space on the board
to mount any type package. I would rather have a closer match for the
circuit but in a different package, if possible. I really appreciate
your help.

Hmmm. Well, high-power Darlingtons seem to have fallen out of favor
with industry - I imagine that power MOSFETs and IGBTs have proven
superior - both are easier to drive, and MOSFETs are faster to switch.

I did a search at Digi-Key for NPN Darlingtons, 20 amps or above, in
most of the common power packages. The only one they list in a TO-247
plastic package is the ST Microelectronics SGSD100, which is a
non-stock item with a big minimum order.

They do have two stock parts by ON Semiconductor - the MJ11016G and
MJ11032G (120-volt parts, 30 and 50 amperes respectively). These are
both in the classic TO-3 metal package. You'd need to add your own
collector/emitter flyback diode.

I just don't think you're going to have much luck finding a high-power
Darlington with a built-in diode these days, unless you find somebody
who actually happens to have a few New Old Stock parts.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <LAWYj.58$mz3.55@fe101.usenetserver.com>,
Gary L. Woodruff <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote:

Dave, Thanks for the help. I will try the mj11032g for the higher
current. When I look at the data sheet I do see a diode E to C in the
schem. I have limited experience replacing with something that is not an
exact equiv. I assume a Schottky diode, but what rating, etc? Any
knowledge you could impart would be greatly appreciated.

You need a diode/rectifier which will stand off the maximum battery
voltage (with safety margin), and which can handle current peaks of up
to the maximum amount of current drawn by the motor (with the worst
case probably being when the motor is just starting up or is stalled).
The *average* current which the diode will have to handle, will be
much lower, since it will conduct only during the moment when the
transistor switches off and the diode provides a current-flow path for
the energy stored in the motor inductance.

I'd consider something like an IR HexFred diode - maybe the
Digikey-part-number HFA30TA60CPBF or similar - it'll handle 30 amperes
average and is in an easy-to-mount TO-220AB package.

You might be able to get away with an ordinary power rectifier such as
a Crydom CRNA25-400 (25 amps, 400 volts), but since these are going to
switch on and off more slowly than a HexFred or Schottky you'd
probably see higher peak reverse voltages across the transistor.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <4UfZj.1069$J04.731@fe087.usenetserver.com>,
Gary L. Woodruff <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote:

I missed the missing diode in the nte256! I have received a few
recommendations and am starting to become confused.

I diagnose "toxic option shock". A cool washcloth on the forehead, a
chilled beer, and 24 hours of not thinking about the problem usually
helps.

There's almost certainly no one "right" or "best" solution for what
you're trying to accomplish... there are many substitutions that you
can make, which will work acceptably.

If I use the
MJH11017 will I need to add an additional diode to the circuit? If I do,
could someone detail where in the circuit I would add it?

If you use a Darlington or IGBT which does not include a reverse
diode, you should add one - otherwise, the transistor may experience a
high-voltage spike when it's switched off (due to the energy stored in
the motor's windings) and this could exceed the Vce(max) and pop the
device.

The diode would be added in parallel with the collector/emitter pins
of the Darlington or IGBT - cathode to collector, anode to emitter.
Just take a look at the internal schematic for the original Darlington
switch, and make your new arrangement look like that electrically.


--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <4UfZj.1069$J04.731@fe087.usenetserver.com>,
Gary L. Woodruff <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote:

I missed the missing diode in the nte256! I have received a few
recommendations and am starting to become confused.

I diagnose "toxic option shock". A cool washcloth on the forehead, a
chilled beer, and 24 hours of not thinking about the problem usually
helps.

There's almost certainly no one "right" or "best" solution for what
you're trying to accomplish... there are many substitutions that you
can make, which will work acceptably.

If I use the
MJH11017 will I need to add an additional diode to the circuit? If I do,
could someone detail where in the circuit I would add it?

If you use a Darlington or IGBT which does not include a reverse
diode, you should add one - otherwise, the transistor may experience a
high-voltage spike when it's switched off (due to the energy stored in
the motor's windings) and this could exceed the Vce(max) and pop the
device.

The diode would be added in parallel with the collector/emitter pins
of the Darlington or IGBT - cathode to collector, anode to emitter.
Just take a look at the internal schematic for the original Darlington
switch, and make your new arrangement look like that electrically.


--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <4BjZj.5269$mz3.4560@fe101.usenetserver.com>,
Gary L. Woodruff <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote:

Dave, I guess this is where my confusion starts. I see diode E -C
in the http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MJH11017-D.PDF circuit
diagram. Am I correct that I would NOT need to add a diode to this?

I believe you are correct. This family of Darlingtons does include a
reverse diode, and would not need an external one.

HOWEVER: the MJH11017 is a PNP Darlington! If I recall correctly,
the one you're seeking to replace is an NPN Darlington. Not compatible!

You'd want to use an MJH11018, which is the NPN equivalent of the
MJH11017, to replace an existing NPN part.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <4BjZj.5269$mz3.4560@fe101.usenetserver.com>,
Gary L. Woodruff <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote:

Dave, I guess this is where my confusion starts. I see diode E -C
in the http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MJH11017-D.PDF circuit
diagram. Am I correct that I would NOT need to add a diode to this?

I believe you are correct. This family of Darlingtons does include a
reverse diode, and would not need an external one.

HOWEVER: the MJH11017 is a PNP Darlington! If I recall correctly,
the one you're seeking to replace is an NPN Darlington. Not compatible!

You'd want to use an MJH11018, which is the NPN equivalent of the
MJH11017, to replace an existing NPN part.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Scott Seidman]

JeffM <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in news:f1c11f32-5e10-4d0e-9940-33fb2e7a71a9
@f63g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Tomás Ó hÉilidhe wrote:
I'm looking for a 3-pin MOSFET transistor[...]

Once you get a number, where do you plan to BUY it?
Why don't you go directly to that vendor
and do a parametric search to see what they have?

This side of the pond,
DigiKey's search engine is quite good for finding things.
You can compare prices and see if it is in stock.

Ditto. The common ones with have stock numbers in the thousands, probably.
That's a good way of knowing what people tend to use.


--
Scott
Reverse name to reply

 

[UFO]

parts@nesda.com


"naqibannur" <syaffa@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2372cb73-6697-461d-a4fb-78df0d90a831@y22g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> http://lanun-one-piece.blogspot.com/ .. enjoy downloding

 

[UFO]

parts@nesda.com


"naqibannur" <syaffa@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2372cb73-6697-461d-a4fb-78df0d90a831@y22g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> http://lanun-one-piece.blogspot.com/ .. enjoy downloding

 

[TT_Man]

"NoSp" <none@none.none> wrote in message news:48404a13@news.broadpark.no...

Is there such a thing as a 40 pin IDC gender changer (changing a male IDE
connector to a female IDE connector)?
I've been searching the web, but nothing's turned up.
I was hoping to avoid making a cable for this.
I think you'll be SOL ... because you need to cross over the pins. Total

pain in the Arse.......

 

[TT_Man]

"NoSp" <none@none.none> wrote in message news:48404a13@news.broadpark.no...

Is there such a thing as a 40 pin IDC gender changer (changing a male IDE
connector to a female IDE connector)?
I've been searching the web, but nothing's turned up.
I was hoping to avoid making a cable for this.
I think you'll be SOL ... because you need to cross over the pins. Total

pain in the Arse.......

 

[Lew Hodgett]

RE: Subject

McM-C has been a total PITA around here for at least the last 10
years.

The only time we place an order with them is when they are the only
game in town.



--
Hodco Systems
Box 2302
Whittier, CA, 90610-2302
(V) 562-944-4432
E-Mail: lewhodgett@verizon.net

Lew Hodgett, PE

 

[Ignoramus23731]

Never had a single problem with them. Always get what I ordered, next
day, and billed exactly once.

i

 

[Stuart & Kathryn Fields]

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:OO%%j.573$8F1.429@newsfe02.lga...

Guv Bob wrote:

I am sad to say that our experience has been that McMaster-Carr has
changed for the worse in the last few weeks. And I don't see any reason
to think that it will return to the friendly, efficiently-run company
that it has been for the prior 10+ years that we have been buying from
them.

I hope that anyone else who has found this to be the case in your
dealings, will contact McMaster-Carr via their website:
http://www.mcmaster.com/ > Contact. Be sure to ask that your comments be
forwarded to someone in upper management and to a VP of Sales. Be sure
to express your thoughts in a polite, business-like manner.

This is a sad comment that am making -- their company has been a pleasure
to buy from for the past 10+ years. But now their operation seems to
have been turned over to the IT dept and/or bean counters. The sales
desk/phone people are as helpful and efficient as always, but
unfortunately, their "customer service" philosophy is limited to taking
orders. Evidently they have no influence on how the rest of the company
is run.

1. As you probably already know, McMaster-Carr has purged many of its
customers' accounts in good standing, and is now requiring long-term
customers to purchase by credit card only. This is true whether ordering
online or by phone.

2. This is fine for small dollar or infrequent orders, but not
acceptable for routine purchases. 3. Our experience is that cards are
kept with a fairly low limit ($1-$5) because that it takes only one
well-meaning but out-of-control employee to sink a project by excessive
use of his card.

4. However, if your employees have a reasonable limit ($2-$10K), then
the company must now monitor the balance weekly and make mid-month
payments just to keep the balance under the card limit and keep on good
standing with the card issuer.

5. When you are in a major project, you have to spend to much time
keeping track of your credit card balance when you should be spending
time on keeping the project under control.

6. I have talked to various McM-Carr people and have gotten nowhere.
Our account is over 10 years old and, like all our supplier accounts, is
always current.

7. On a different issue.... we have places 4 orders in the past 2
weeks -- all by credit card (as required). Two of these orders were
shipped to addresses in other states that we never heard of.

I hope that they will get enough feedback from their customers to pull
the plug on the impersonal bean-counter attitudes and return some
reasonable customer-oriented management to the company.

Thank you for reading.

Boycott McMaster-Carr

We stopped using them on a regular bases a while ago.

We only buy from them when absolutely necessary.

3 of the major reasons we stopped buying from them are

1. Overly priced products in many area's

2. Inconsistent product line and lack of detail data in cat.

3. Getting double billed attempts. (multiple times).

They never use to be this bad how ever, it seems that the times
are reflecting on their business.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

Absolutely zero problems dealing with them to date. While their prices
aren't the lowest, their service has always been first class. I order
before 4:00 pm, I have it next day by noon. We darn sure don't spend much
more than $2K/yr with them but we always receive friendly courteous service.
I was shocked to read the above.

Stu Fields
Experimental Helo Magazine

 

[Tom Gardner]

"Guv Bob" <brotherdave@bigfootYEOOOOOW.com> wrote in message
news:yx%%j.96$yg6.73@trnddc01...
I am sad to say that our experience has been that McMaster-Carr has changed for
the worse in the last few weeks. And I don't see any reason to think that it
will return to the friendly, efficiently-run company that it has been for the
prior 10+ years that we have been buying from them.
<snip>

Hmmm, we've had the opposite experience. Friendly, knowledgeable and we get
same-day delivery if we order by noon. We do about $1k/mo.