audio recording on IC -help wanted

[JW]

On Fri, 05 Sep 2003 13:59:46 -0400 William P.N. Smith
<wpns@compusmiths.com> wrote in Message id:
<lmjhlv071feifaf3mviu46nvqahqkf3t0h@4ax.com>:

JW <nospam@dev.nul> wrote:
wpns@compusmiths.com> wrote in Message id:
Many of the parts I'm looking at lately have been {only,more easily}
available in SMD, is there a breadboarding {material, process,
technique} that I'm missing for mocking up circuits using them? I'm
from the old school of thru-hole breadboarding, but there mst e
something more modern without makgin PC boards...

http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/jameco/home.d2w/report?cgrfnbr=874&ctgys=505;560;874;

Umm, those are nice, but they all seem to have double-sided pads with
holes on 0.1" centers. How does that help with Surface Mount Devices?

Sorry, I should have mentioned that they don't start listing till items
41-50 are displayed (out of 63) keep hitting the "next" button till you
get to item 41.

 

[JW]

On 5 Sep 2003 18:18:31 GMT "Walter Harley" <walterh@cafewalter.com> wrote
in Message id: <bjak1n$u2k$0@216.39.172.65>:

"Walter Harley" <walterh@cafewalter.com> wrote in message
news:bjajok$tfn$0@216.39.172.65...
"JW" <nospam@dev.nul> wrote in message
news:mdfhlvgc7e0s6i4igojfigcqpsvf64d2ms@4ax.com...


http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/jameco/home.d2w/report?cgrfnbr=874&ctgys=505;560;874;

That link doesn't seem to be working, at least not for me.

Cancel that - IE wasn't picking up the final ";". When I add that the link
works. You're linking to a collection of items Jameco sells, mostly
prototyping boards.

But, the boards you linked to all seem to be 0.1" grid through-hole boards -
that is, perfect for prototyping through-hole components, but not useful for
SMD, which is what the OP was asking about.

Yes, I know - see my other post.

 

[Wade Hassler]

William P.N. Smith <wpns@compusmiths.com> wrote in message news:<75bhlvolvv6tsik2tl5aiqtpof76aval4d@4ax.com>...

Many of the parts I'm looking at lately have been {only,more easily}
available in SMD, is there a breadboarding {material, process,
technique} that I'm missing for mocking up circuits using them? I'm
from the old school of thru-hole breadboarding, but there mst e
something more modern without makgin PC boards...

Thanks!

Give Twin Industries a look:

http://www.twinhunter.com/index.html?Home=Prod_SMT.html

 

[nospam]

"Jamie" <jizzproductions@hotmail.com> wrote:

I have a problem with a circuit I'm developing...I've put a schematic up
here http://www.student-pcs.co.uk/circuit.tif (sorry about the drawing...)

So I'm figuring that when I
connect up my 4017, what with the HI voltage being 5.1V, every thing will be
just great and LEDs will be going on and off all over the place, but, alas,
it is not so...

So, what on earth is going on?

Well you don't tell us what the LED are acutally doing which might give us
a clue, however, "what on earth" might be a clue for you.

You don't show any connection between the units other than the MOSFET gate
drive. If the power supply 0v (ground/earth) lines are not connected then
you are not driving the MOSFET gate with respect to anything, probalby just
floating around in a lot of picked up mains hum. Are all the LEDs half on
all the time? That's what I would expect.

 

[Fred Abse]

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:51:41 +0100, Lizard Blizzard wrote:

Can you believe it? Yugo Spam!

About on a par with the cars

--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)
nofr@sbhevre.pbzchyvax.pb.hx

 

[Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun]

In article <tj%db.26889$ZR1.20964@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>,
harryd@tdsystems.org mentioned...

"Oppie" <boppie@-nospam-ludl.com> wrote in message
news:42ab7e75d2ed5b32bc647d373915a1b8@news.teranews.com...
Photodeluxe
reduce from 400 to 150 res
posterize
save as mono GIF.
Oppie
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That app note should mention that if you use a bridge instead of a single
diode, the cap value drops in half, ripple current is reduced, smaller and
cheaper unit. The cap is the biggest and most expensive part.

harry

After reading that last part, about series LEDs, it occurred to me
that it would be cheaper and simpler to just put two LEDs in anti-
parallel rather than use two LEDs in series and a 1N4148. Or use two
sets of two LEDs.. etc. Recently we went thru this whole discussion,
going thru the math with the help of someone else, to get the right
current and capacitance. So I soldered a couple LEDs together with
just a rectifier and capacitor, and I concluded that the flicker of a
half-wave rectifier was very distracting, every time you moved your
hand under the light it was very flickery and jerky. Try it sometime
and see what I mean. I put a couple hundred uF electrolytic across
the LEDs, and that all went away - no more flicker.

Re: full-wave bridges. I look thru these cheap ten dollar phones (and
other consumer equipment too), and I find two full sets of four
1N4004s, one set for the ringer circuit, and another for the rest of
the phone. But they almost always use discrete diodes, not the pill
packages. Why is it that a full-wave bridge 'pill' is always a lot
more expensive than four 1N4004s? With a tape-fed stuffing machine,
it seems to pay to stuff four diodes instead of a pill package.

My most important question is what should I use for the capacitor? I
have some of those caps out of PC SMPSes, which were connected across
the AC line for filtering, and have the special designation along with
the AC voltage rating, usually with the "~" to indicate AC. Maybe
someone could point me to a website with the information about what
all that stuff means on the side of the cap. I searched thru the URL
in my .sig, trying faradnet and a couple others, but I came up with
nothing. :-( Thanks.

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
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goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
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Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
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Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
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[Frank Bemelman]

"Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com> schreef in bericht
news:blifu5$bvpr2$1@ID-69072.news.uni-berlin.de...

Mike Harding <mike_harding1@nixspamhotmail.com> wrote in
message news:m09pnv8gr6r5nnpfur0bquk70jk71hblkq@4ax.com...
Iman Habib <imanhabibREMOVETHIS@eml.cc> wrote

[snip]

Why not try just one group to start with?

Because its much more efficient to include that lot instead.

For the OP perhaps. My ISP won't post my reply, bounces it back
to me, yelling that crossposting is not allowed to >3 groups.
So I have to remove a couple of newsgroups, to post it.

Of course, people can change provider, can change newsreaders,
can move from dial-up accounts to cable/dsl etc.

In the meantime, it's not a such bad idea to limit crossposting.

But I also see people grab a stack of 15 tissues at McDonalds(tm).
Efficient to them, no doubt, and free, so why bother.

Jim Thomson has the same attitude, always posts to 4 newsgroups.
Crossposts when the temperature in Arizona changes. It charactarizes
the person.

--
Thanks,
Frank Bemelman
(remove 'x' & .invalid when sending email)

 

[Fred Abse]

On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 21:51:03 -0700, Wong wrote:

Hi,

I blown a power supply unit and need to replace this component, ZNR
V10221U. Unfortunately I cant find the datasheet online and I think it
should be a varistor or transient absorber. If you know this component,
please help me and let me know.
Thanks in advance for your big help !!

regards,
Wong

It's a Panasonic varistor, 10mm diameter, 220V threshold (turnover) - from
the type number.

Beware voltage ratings from different manufacturers, some rate on varistor
(threshold) voltage, some on DC working voltage, some on RMS working
voltage. RTFDS

Digikey should have something comparable, if not the original Panasonic
dingus.

BTW, what makes you think it's faulty? It apparently isn't blown up if you
can still read the number. To an ohms test with a meter it should appear
open circuit. Below 220V, it should be as near O/C as makes no difference,
above 220V, practically a short.

--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)
nofr@sbhevre.pbzchyvax.pb.hx

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"Roy J. Tellason" wrote:

Ben Bradley wrote:

In

alt.electronics,sci.electronics,sci.electronics.components,sci.electronics.design,
"Info" <qjbpe@noname.com> wrote:


"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in message
news:NDNkb.184492$JA5.4597745@news.xtra.co.nz...
"Info" <qjbpe@noname.com> wrote in message
news:bn08bo$20n$1@newsserver.unipi.it...
hi all,
there is anybody that can help me to find a pdf manual on naming
conventions...
example 74hct instead 74hc
or 29c020 instead 29f040
thanks

Google on a search term like '+7400 +logic +families'

Ken



thanks I've tried,
I'm looking for an extended naming devices document because there is an
international standard for builders,
I've found something at http://www.philipslogic.com/products/naming/ but
it isn't the international standard for naming (like ISO, etc).
other ideas?

There's no "international standard." When a manufacturer came out
with a new family, the manufacturer gave it a new name, and often
other manufacturers followed with their line of (semi)compatible parts
with the same name. It's usually a mnemonic or abbreviation of the
family name. HC is high-speed CMOS, HCT is high-speed CMOS with TTL
I/O voltage levels.
29c020 is surely a CMOS part, and ISTR 29f040 is a Flash part. But
these two are not TTL or considered part of any 'ttl family' so any
'rules' that might apply to 'TTL' type families may not apply here.
Fairchild made 74Fxx where the F is for FAST, some acronym that starts
with Fairchild, and that's a different use of F than in the 29F040.
This was actually an improvement over previous numbering
conventions. The original TTL series started at 7400, the original
CMOS was the 4000 series, there were different ranges of numbers (I
actually forget, which is probably a good thing) for RTL and ECL.
Another possible websearch string might be history of ttl.

RTL was 9xx from what I can remember (and no doubt other numbers as well).
And then there's early Motorola TTL, which was 3xxx and 4xxx numbers, just
to keep us good and confused!

And you're forgetting about DTL entirely!

Motorola's RTL was their 7XX, 8XX, and 9XX series.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Roy J. Tellason]

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"Roy J. Tellason" wrote:

<...>

29c020 is surely a CMOS part, and ISTR 29f040 is a Flash part. But
these two are not TTL or considered part of any 'ttl family' so any
'rules' that might apply to 'TTL' type families may not apply here.
Fairchild made 74Fxx where the F is for FAST, some acronym that starts
with Fairchild, and that's a different use of F than in the 29F040.
This was actually an improvement over previous numbering
conventions. The original TTL series started at 7400, the original
CMOS was the 4000 series, there were different ranges of numbers (I
actually forget, which is probably a good thing) for RTL and ECL.
Another possible websearch string might be history of ttl.

RTL was 9xx from what I can remember (and no doubt other numbers as
well).
And then there's early Motorola TTL, which was 3xxx and 4xxx numbers,
just
to keep us good and confused!

And you're forgetting about DTL entirely!

Motorola's RTL was their 7XX, 8XX, and 9XX series.

Really? I never got a hold of any databooks where RTL was concerned (that
was a much harder thing to do back then). Nor DTL, for that matter. Most
of the RTL I ran across was construction articles in hobby-type magazines
that put a "uL" prefix in front of such parts as the 914 -- which is
Fairchild if I'm not mistaken. Also built a couple of kits that used those
parts, though I can't recall what the company (in NYC) was that sold 'em.
They're no doubt gone now, in any case...

 

[Ash]

Hi,

I am working on some project that works like the Jeopardy Game. What
happens is, there are three teams, with buttons infront of them, and
on each team's desk is a light bulb.

After asking the question, the first one to press the button gets the
ligth go on, on their table, while the rest of the team's buttons are
disables, hence their ligth bulbs dont go on even if they press their
button(as ong as one light is on.. the rest are disabled).

Anyone who can give me an idea of how to do this? I know how to work
if it were only two teams, but what do i use (if realys, any specific
one? ) that would help me resolve this issue?

Thank you for the help in advance,

Ash

 

[Ash]

Hi,

I am working on some project that works like the Jeopardy Game. What
happens is, there are three teams, with buttons infront of them, and
on each team's desk is a light bulb.

After asking the question, the first one to press the button gets the
ligth go on, on their table, while the rest of the team's buttons are
disables, hence their ligth bulbs dont go on even if they press their
button(as ong as one light is on.. the rest are disabled).

Anyone who can give me an idea of how to do this? I know how to work
if it were only two teams, but what do i use (if realys, any specific
one? ) that would help me resolve this issue?

Thank you for the help in advance,

Ash

 

*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***


Reinhard Zwirner wrote:

"Watson A.Name \"Watt Sun - the Dark Remover\"" schrieb:

I want to purchase 100 each of the BD435 and BD436.

http://www.reichelt.de

BD 435 EUR 0.26 ea.
BD 436 EUR 0.23 ea.

Minimum purchase: EUR 50.-

IMHO they're shipping worldwide.

Please take this hint seriously: Reichelt is one of the main suppliers
of electronic components for non-industrial customers in Germany. It
will be hard to find somebody able and willing to beat their prices.

I suggest you find a German speaking person to help you navigate their
site. Else contact them directly via e-mail at <info@reicheltOUCH.de>.
Note that 100+100 pieces of BD435+436 fall 1 Euro short of their minimum
for international orders.

Martin.


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[Mike Harrison]

On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 6:23:34 -0800, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

In my 400W audio power amp, a power MOSFET died, I think. The speaker output
from one of the channels is 5.5v DC, whereas it's supposed to be zero.

Configuration is 3 parallel MOSFETs connecting the output to the plus rail,
and 3 connecting it to the minus rail.Rails are plus and minus 68v, nominal,
no ripple.

Can I just remove the failed plus-side MOSFET from the circuit? If I can do
this, should I also remove one of the minus-side ones from that channel, as
well?

Eventually I'll look into exactly what has failed (MOSFET, driver FET, or
some passive component), but right now I just want to get the amp's output
back to zero and use it right away.

How can I easily determine which of the three MOSFETs has failed?

This amp is a little-known brand (VSP Labs) from a small, long-closed
company, so no schematics or repair documentation is available.

I doubt its a MOSFET as (like most semis.) they almost always fail short, so you would see more than
5V.
By all means try disconnecting though, can't see it would do much harm.

 

[Jeff]

"Mike Harrison" <mike@whitewing.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ft57rvc1drquma0v15jq3tetb9ainj5lso@4ax.com...

On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 6:23:34 -0800, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

In my 400W audio power amp, a power MOSFET died, I think. The speaker
output
from one of the channels is 5.5v DC, whereas it's supposed to be zero.

Configuration is 3 parallel MOSFETs connecting the output to the plus
rail,
and 3 connecting it to the minus rail.Rails are plus and minus 68v,
nominal,
no ripple.

Can I just remove the failed plus-side MOSFET from the circuit? If I can
do
this, should I also remove one of the minus-side ones from that channel,
as
well?

Eventually I'll look into exactly what has failed (MOSFET, driver FET, or
some passive component), but right now I just want to get the amp's
output
back to zero and use it right away.

How can I easily determine which of the three MOSFETs has failed?

This amp is a little-known brand (VSP Labs) from a small, long-closed
company, so no schematics or repair documentation is available.

I doubt its a MOSFET as (like most semis.) they almost always fail short,
so you would see more than
5V.
By all means try disconnecting though, can't see it would do much harm.

Agree with all

Unless its loaded and driven to full power, then good
luck.
If leaky fet is suspected I would test out of circuit
very rare for them but I have seen a few.
Jeff

 

[Beep]

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 08:42:51 -0800, "Watson A.Name \"Watt Sun - the
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:

I want to purchase 100 each of the BD435 and BD436.

How about MAT Electronics? Been using them for sometime. They have
the BD435 listed here for 29 cents each in qtys over 10:

http://www.matelectronics.com/acatalog/Mat_Electronics_BD__163.html

Call 'em - they may have the BD436 also.

Brian

 

[Beep]

Might be easier to get their catalog here:

http://www.matelectronics.com/

Brian

On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 17:57:07 -0500, Beep <not @ this address.org>
wrote:

How about MAT Electronics? Been using them for sometime. They have
the BD435 listed here for 29 cents each in qtys over 10:

http://www.matelectronics.com/acatalog/Mat_Electronics_BD__163.html

Call 'em - they may have the BD436 also.

Brian

 

[Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun]

In article <ambdrvslc8linbrook649jnk795od2n7id@4ax.com>, Beep <not @
this address.org> mentioned...

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 08:42:51 -0800, "Watson A.Name \"Watt Sun - the
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:


I want to purchase 100 each of the BD435 and BD436.

How about MAT Electronics? Been using them for sometime. They have
the BD435 listed here for 29 cents each in qtys over 10:

http://www.matelectronics.com/acatalog/Mat_Electronics_BD__163.html

Call 'em - they may have the BD436 also.

Looks interesting. Thanks for the info. I did a search for the BD436
but no luck.

Brian

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Wim Lewis]

In article <boum3n$1a8$1@sparta.btinternet.com>,
ellen <shpf.pg@btopenworld.com> wrote:

How about trying the electroluminescent wire that Maplin sells. You should
be able to bend it into any shape or just paint out areas to get the effect
you need.

Don't know about the particular EL wire that Maplin sells, but the EL wire
I've messed with doesn't really like being bent sharply. The outer
conductor is made of very fine wire and breaks easily.


I made a set of Christmas lights for a miniature Norfolk pine a while ago
out of SMD chip LEDs and fine enameled wire (magnet wire). I simply
soldered the wire to the chips' ends by hand (using solder paste and
a small-tipped iron). The effect was pretty good, but the mechanical
stability wasn't; any handling at all would cause the string to break.
That might not be a problem with a dollhouse, or it might be possible to
add some sort of mechanical reinforcement so that the solder joints
don't have to provide the strength.

--
Wim Lewis <wiml@hhhh.org>, Seattle, WA, USA. PGP keyID 27F772C1

 

[Eric Livingston]

Are there other ways to do what I'm trying to do? It seems like it
should
be
possible.

Thanks,
Eric

You could try a telephonce cable pair identifyer. The transmit a warbline
tone which is picked up with a reciever. You follow the cable tehn at the
open there will be a peak in signal then nothing afterwards.

Does the cable pair identifier have to have a closed circuit to work? If so
it might work with the two shorted lines, but wouldn't with the one that's
just cut. If it would work with the cut one as well that would be a perfect
solution! I'll look into those.

Thanks!