audio recording on IC -help wanted

[Fred Bartoli]

Le Fri, 07 Sep 2007 17:04:23 +0000, Lostgallifreyan a ĂŠcrit:

Fred <guest@msn.com> wrote in
news:46e160e3$0$26127$426a74cc@news.free.fr:

hi
i want to know about why germanium is more stable than silicon in
language of physics ?
please send the answer as fast as possible.

Si atomic number is 14, atomic is about wgt=28 Ge atomic number is 32,
atomic is about wgt=73

When you place a small piece of Ge or Si inside a bowl you'll need more
energy to get the piece of Ge outside the bowl than to get the piece of
Si.
Hence, in language of physics we can say that Ge is more stable than
Si.



??
Try radium. That's even heavier. Wouldn't call it stable, exactly.

The extrem stupidity of my answer should have caught your attention.

Have a look at potential energy (the worlds 'weight', OK only 3 letters,
and 'bowl' should have clued you)


--
Thanks,
Fred.

 

[Jon Slaughter]

<mad.scientist.jr@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:9c27d683-95c3-4c38-b4b7-fd8b46ca2660@n36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

I would like to build a drum machine/metronome
using a BASIC Stamp 2 (maybe later on PICAXE)
which would allow the user to control
the beats per minute (bpm) with a dial/potentiometer.
They could select a value from 1-255
(later I might add a module to display the current value).

I would like the timing to be as accurate enough
to a real clock to be comparable to a real metronome
or drum machine.

This is the main problem, since the BASIC Stamp 2
(and PICAXE models I am considering)
don't have a real time clock (see link/citation below).
Would I need to connect the microcontroller to a
Dallas real time clock to accurately control the timing
or would it be possible to make my own with a
555 timer or other component for less money?

For my purpose the 555 or similar would have to be
accurate enough to measure actual seconds
(or milliseconds? how granular should it be?)
to get real beats per minute.
I have found numerous "555 calculator" pages
(some listed below) which let you enter different
resistor/capacitor values and see what the
time high / time low would be (you can reverse
the math to figure out what R/C values to measure
milliseconds, or 1/100 of a second, or whatever
would be accurate enough).

You can get gold resistors with +/- 5% tolerance,
would this variance throw off the timing?
Furthermore I read that capacitors of the type needed
for the 555 are a lot less tolerant (+/- 20%)
than gold resistors. If this is true, would this
totally throw off the timing? I picture myself having to
buy 100 capacitors and test each one with a meter until
I find the exact value, and even then its capactiance might
change as it ages, making the device not accurate.

Any advice or links to a similar project or good solution would be
most appreciated... The simpler the better : )

Thanks again

If you don't use the PLL(jitter of +-2%) then you probably have about 1%
jitter(which is the real problem except for drift). The clock has about 5%
inaccuracy but you can calibrate that out or get a more accurate clock.

1% jitter using the internal 8Mhz clock is +-2bpm at around 200bpm. This
isn't acceptable but you can use it anyways for development(its not bad
though for starters). Its very easy to use a more precise external clock so
its no big deal.

Also, Timer1 can use an external clock so if you use this for your timing
you can easily hook up a better clock later on to get more precision.

The point being is that the clock, at this point in development, doesn't
matter. The PIC is good enough at this point to do everything that is needed
and its very simple to make it better.

Except of course if you do use timer1 and plan on using an external clock
you need to keep the secondary osc pin free... although theres no real point
when you can just use that for the primary clock.

So my suggestion is you go ahead and develop the software and hardware and
then after you get a prototype you can worry about getting a more precise
oscillator. (if you do any layout you can lay out for some clock and/or
clock conditioner and then its just a matter of configuring the pic). This
is really a non issue so go ahead and get with it!

 

[Paul Martin]

In article <ujr6i3dolk1qjon2ij5tta8aip26tff9qa@4ax.com>,
John Evans wrote:

Oh dear - what about the deviation?

The rule of thumb bandwidth required for FM (Carson's Rule) says the
bandwidth is given by

2x(peak deviation x highest modulating frquency).

So a system with a maximum modulating sinusoidal frequency of 15khz
using a deviation of 75khz needs 180khz bandwidth minimum.

Note a pulse would require a far greater bandwidth.

Depends on the type of pulse. A wavelet might be about the same.

--
Paul Martin <pm@zetnet.net>

 

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[Lostgallifreyan]

don@manx.misty.com (Don Klipstein) wrote in
news:slrnf9a2vm.e87.don@manx.misty.com:

In <Xns996AB18AADF79zoodlewurdle@140.99.99.130>, Lostgallifreyan
wrote:
don@manx.misty.com (Don Klipstein) wrote in
news:slrnf983vr.a00.don@manx.misty.com:

There are some high power IR laser diodes more efficienct than
LPS.
Other than those, laser diodes are less efficient than most sodium
lamps.

Ok. I thought more laser diodes were but never mind.. Aren't most
class 3B visible red diodes around 20% efficient or more though?
That still leaves a lot of headroom. Tungsten is often said to be 1%
to 2% efficient at making visible light. So a 100W incandescent 17
l/W at 1% to 2%

More like 6-7%. Each watt of tungsten radiation in the 400-700 nm
range
is around 250 lumens.

places the Cree XR-E's 50+ l/W at 3 times that, up to 6%.

Figure around 250-300 lumens per watt of "white LED light". Looks
like
those achieve about 20%.


Watts of emitted light? I just saw a later post of yours that
mentioned "lumens per visible radiated watt". I think that's why we're
discussing such different values. I'm talking about input watts. I
thought we all were, at least Eeyore certainly was, as that's
ultimately watt (haha) is consumed no matter watt is emitted.

Cree themselves don't claim anything like 250-300 l/W for input watts,
at least not yet, though that might not be long awaiting.

So how does a 100W incandescent look in that context?

I am saying that a watt of white light is about 250 lumens, not the
683
some use as the lumen/watt figure for a 100% efficient light source.
A 100% efficient white light source would achieve about 250-300 or so
lumens/watt, depending on what they call "white".

Most of those generating figures of incandescents being 1-2%
efficient
are assuming that they would achieve 683 lumens/watt if they were 100%
efficient.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

Ok, I see that lumens depend on the spectrum, not just the actual visible
watts emitted, but given that there is convection in an incandescent lamp
that makes some of its power emit in the IR, does enough leave that way to
bring the lumens per input watts down to levels that can account for stated
line-power-to-light efficiences of 3% and lower?

I think when Cree talk of lumens per watt, they're talking of lumens for
each watt of electrical input, and that's how I want to make the
comparison.

 

[Mike Lamond]

"Long Ranger" <worpylorp@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:8vLni.8808$tj6.8733@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...

"Alex Coleman" <no@no-email.com> wrote in message
news:Xns997299E5176A471F3M4@127.0.0.1...
I have a cordless phone with rechargeable NiMH cells. The instructions
point out I must wipe clean the ends of the cells and also the contacts.

Is it really likely that "normal" dirt (in other words invisible dirt )
may affect performance?

ISTR that an NiMH and a NiCd have an internal reistense of about 0.24
ohm. How much resistence would someone's finger grease have?

Are there other residues which can build up on the battery and and
contacts from normal use? Perhaps from gas vebting from the cells or
just a reacton with the atmosphere.

-----

Is the need to wipe cells & contacts equally applicable to silver oxide
cells? Does it depend on the application?

It also depends on how well engineered the contact set is, and what they
are made of. I have an old Dell pocket PC that gives me a "low battery"
alert from time to time. Sometimes it's the main cell, sometimes the
backup. I have to take the batteries out, and clean them and the contacts,
then it works fine for another month or two. I don't know what the main
cell contacts are made of, but they always leave tiny black smudges on the
battery wipe area, which I assume is some sort of oxide build-up. I've
tried various anti-oxidants, and a faint trace Corrosion-X Marine seems to
give the longest lasting results. I think the corrosive effect of finger
smudging is probably a bigger concern than the inital resistance of it. It
doesn't take much to ruin the crappy little contact schemes of some units.
(Like mine).
With my last cell phone, the charger base would occasionally blink on error

when I set the phone into the base. Once I cleaned the battery's exposed
charge contacts, it was fine. That hasn't happened yet with my current
phone, which suggests that the spring contacts in the base must have a
better wiping action against the battery contacts. Cordless phones just
drop into the base instead of snapping in like my cell phones, so there's
not as much pressure between the contacts.

When I opened up a pair of solar powered sidewalk lights, I found a
fair amount of corrosion on the NiCd battery terminals. That was after
several summers outside. After cleaning they seemed to be brighter
(relatively speaking for a white LED) but now one of them has failed
completely.

Mike

 

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[John Fields]

On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 01:40:10 -0700 (PDT), bill.sloman@ieee.org
wrote:

On Mar 12, 5:39 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 07:43:19 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:





On Mar 11, 3:34 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 07:57:49 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:

On Mar 10, 10:59 am, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com
wrote:
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 16:57:49 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:
Since "restoring voltage handling capability" means thickening up the
oxide layer, it probably will decrease the part's capacitance,
bringing it back towards the as-new value. The tolerance on most
electrolytic capacitors is pretty high, so it might be hard to prove.

---
You certainly don't seem to be thinking straight since, regardless
of the tolerance, measuring the capacitance before, and then after
reforming would certainly indicate if the process had changed the
capacitance.

Sure it would, but how many people have a capacitor handy that needs
reforming?

---
Who cares?

We're talking process, not logistics.

Actually, we are talking about being helpful,

---
No, we're not.

Being helpful doesn't seem to figure in your priorities, and I'm not
(at the moment) bored enough to indulge in the kind of dim-witted nit-
picking that you do fancy.

---
Bullshit, chickenshit.

All you're doing is backing away with your tail between your legs
while trying to save face by whining, "This argument is beneath me,
boo-hoo-hoo."

--
JF

 

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On Mar 13, 7:00 pm, ehsjr <eh...@bellatlantic.net> wrote:

bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:
On Mar 12, 5:39 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 07:43:19 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:

On Mar 11, 3:34 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 07:57:49 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org
wrote:

On Mar 10, 10:59 am, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com
wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 16:57:49 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:

Since "restoring voltage handling capability" means thickening up the
oxide layer, it probably will decrease the part's capacitance,
bringing it back towards the as-new value. The tolerance on most
electrolytic capacitors is pretty high, so it might be hard to prove.

---
You certainly don't seem to be thinking straight since, regardless
of the tolerance, measuring the capacitance before, and then after
reforming would certainly indicate if the process had changed the
capacitance.

Sure it would, but how many people have a capacitor handy that needs
reforming?

---
Who cares?

We're talking process, not logistics.

Actually, we are talking about being helpful,

---
No, we're not.

Being helpful doesn't seem to figure in your priorities,

I guess you were sleeping through the hundreds and hundreds,
maybe *thousands* of helpful posts from JF over the years.

Many of them would have been more helpful if he were a better
electronic engineer.

His intentions might be good, but his repertoire is very restricted,
and he doesn't understand that even good solutions can always be made
better, not that any solution involving a 555 or and LM318 is ever
going to rate as good (except perhaps for dumpster-diving).

--
Bill Sloman, Nijmegen

 

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[Tim]

OK, I put in an order for some small parts just to see. I bought about
12 bucks worth of semis (including a couple of CD4517) and was charged 8
bucks for USPS Global Priority Shipping. All in Canadian funds. No
requirement for passports or anything. Of course they may still contact
me about that.

- Tim -


In article <Pine.LNX.4.64.0902231525550.17685@darkstar.example.net>,
et472@ncf.ca says...

On Mon, 23 Feb 2009, Jim wrote:

In article <b3h4q4574oodoaa667t7ofv8eqiecuv4j9@4ax.com>, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:


Anybody in Canada would have two CD4517, or two HEF4517, or two HCF4517 ?



---
Try Mouser Electronics:

http://ca.mouser.com/Home.aspx

They've got stock, but I don't know what their minimums are or if
they'll ship via Canada post.


Not a good idea for Canadians, I'm afraid. Both times I tried to order
from them recently, they demanded a photocopy of my passport! No
explanation, just that they would not be able to approve my credit card
without the passport info.
Go to Digi-Key if at all possible.

That's likely the company's paranoia, though I'm not sure what a passport
has to do with it.

But it does bring up the point that some US companies do not ship
via the post office, and some of those courier companies end up tacking
on a large "brokerage fee" to get it into Canada. I'm not sure if it's
all the courier companies, or just some, but you need to watch for
that. Getting charged fifty dollars extra to bring some parts in
is not a good thing.

Michael

--
Email - tempowl@nospam.nbnet.nb.ca (remove the nospam part)

 

[FrediFizzx]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:v89l93hsoaq9e2s7bcfqa08mrdv70l8026@4ax.com...

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 14:39:54 -0700, "FrediFizzx"
fredifizzx@hotmail.com> wrote:

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:4p2l93ttjh3g208te7o34gq0eo0ea9bg3a@4ax.com...
On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 06:42:49 +1000, "Sally" <me@anon.net> wrote:

But the old rule to avoid unpleasant language is as valid as ever.
How
can
you rabbit on about top posters and still resort to foul language?

---
One has nothing to do with the other, "Sally", and by top posting
you brand yourself as an intellectual midget whose grousing about
fowl language is for the birds.

Quite frankly, anyone that can't handle a top post must have
malfunctioning brain connections of some sort.

---
Quite frankly, your "Quite frankly" seems designed to cast you in
the role of an authority on top posting, while your bottom post
shows that you accede to the wisdom of the masses. Good move.

Secondly, it's not a question of not being able to "handle" it, it's
more a question about why a top poster considers his response to an
earlier question important enough to try to juggle time so that his
response will seem to be placed before the question.

It's not a question at all. If someone replies to me with a top post, I
will reply to them with a top post. If someone replies to me with a
bottom post, I will reply to them with a bottom post. The ultimate
netiquette. There is really no logic to either form. Threading a reply
is a different case which the logic is to reply after the other poster's
reply. Unless there is just a short overall comment then it would be
just as logical to top post it.

FD

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

kilowatt wrote:

HELLO, MODERATOR, ?

Are you there.???? It is time to get rid of handbag, rolex watch
frauds and XXX ads.
Are you ever reading the posts, looks like you are not reading the
topic about managing your members.

I would be happy to post interesting items for members, but they can't
see the posts for all the JUNK STUFF.

Below was pasted FYI from the Google Groups Help Center site...

hoping for a miracle.

This isn't a private Google Group. It is the
sci.electronics.components usenet newsgroup you are using, through
Google's crappy web interface. There is no moderator, and Google Groups
is the major source of spam on this, and most real newsgroups. If you
don't like the spam, find a real NNTP news server and install filtering
software.


The list below only applies to private, moderated, Google Groups

NB: "Managing your members"

* How do I control who can access the new sections in my group?
* How do I add members to my group?
* How do I control who can post in my group?
* My members are listed as non-verified. What does that mean?
* Are there email addresses that can't be added to Groups?
* What is a pending member?
* What's the difference between an owner and a manager?
* How do I invite people to my group?
* How can I change a group member's settings?
* How do I remove a post in my group?
* How do I see a list of bouncing members in my group?
* Why was my request to add or invite members flagged for review?
* How do I approve pending members?
* How do I ban a member from my group?
* I've invited people to my group but they still haven't accepted
the invitation. What can I do?
* How do I transfer ownership of my group to another member?
* Can I have more than one manager or owner of my group?
* How do I export my group's member list?
* How do I make someone a manager of my group?
* How do I see a list of my group's members?
* How do I change permissions for a manager?
* Why was my request to add members converted to invites?
* How do I approve pending messages?
* Why was my request to add members denied?
* I deleted myself as owner and can no longer access my group.
What should I do?
* How can I send someone another invitiation to my group?

--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[Lostgallifreyan]

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:497538AA.4910304B@hotmail.com:

Lostgallifreyan wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote
Phil Allison the kangaroo shagger wrote:
EyeSore the CONGENITAL MORON
David Snowdon wrote:

The subject line says it all. I have four of these RCA
ICs in my parts box, but have been unable to ID them.

How dumb are you ?

Has the name Google eluded you all these years ? I take it, that's
a radio ham ID, yet you've never heard of 400 series CMOS that
came out - oh - 40 years ago ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4000_series

** Funny how it is not listed.

It's not in my ancient Philips printed 4000 series databook but it's
interesting that these guys claim to have some for sale.
http://www.ic-trade.com/eparts/CD4074.html
http://www.hkinventory.com/public/OfferInventResult.asp?Order=1&pnums=
cd4
074&crit1=&crit2=&category=&product=&keywords=&words=3&country=&postda
te= &brand=&crit3=&crit4=0&datecode=

Was it a typo though and he meant CD4047 ?

Has it really NEVER occured to you that those guys are full enough of
shit that they'd fill in gaps in apparent sequences just to make it
look like they have everything? No wonder counterfeiters and shysters
can profit so easily when that kind of gullibility persists.

Why would they do that for part that doesn't exist and for which there
can therefore be no demand ?

Ask them if you want their answer. Not that it's likely to help you. Work it
out yourself. Ok, I'll spell it out for you. They see a range with apparent
gaps. They don't know if the missing numbers mean real parts or not, so they
fill the gaps in so their listings have a higher chance of returning as
Google results. Obviously if the part doesn't exist then it's less likely to
get called for, but they don't kmnow that, do they? Easier for them to add it
to the list and be done with it. Especially if it appears via one of theor
own search tools as the result of a typo. Again, they don't know what's real
all the time, they just add anything that looks like it should be added. Just
LOOK at one of their wretched lists some time, that alone should convince you
of this. All numbers and no data.

 

[Eeyore]

<bill.sloman@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:8ef61174-ae31-4f99-a1da-7a0d468569bf@13g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 14, 1:20 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:

bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:

Many of them would have been more helpful if he were a better
electronic engineer.

His intentions might be good, but his repertoire is very restricted,
and he doesn't understand that even good solutions can always be made
better, not that any solution involving a 555 or and LM318 is ever
going to rate as good (except perhaps for dumpster-diving).

I guess that means the thousands you didn't post were even worse?

You could check out the ones I did post. There are a few around. None
of them have much to do with the sort of problems you are interested
in, so you will be free to form your own conclusions about their
utility without having to consider pesky facts.

As far as dumpster diving, people are afraid you'll be living in the
dumpster, and won't dive because of it.

The municipality values the house I do live in at over a million U.S.
dollars at the current rate of exchange. Dumpsters are a little
cheaper.

Your anxiety is deluded (like a number of your other ideas). You
should be able to comfort yourself with the thought that Jim
Thompson's powerful friends in the FBI have made it impossible for me
to enter the USA - it isn't true, of course, but most of your
comforting delusions are equally unrelated to reality, so you really
should feel free to dive into any of your local dumpsters, feeling
confident that I couldn't possibly pop out to laugh at you.

--
Bill Sloman, Nijmegen



No DumbAss....... You don't know shit, because you speak within the limit
of a radiation of your shit. See what I mean PussyFace?

 

[moby]

On Mar 14, 10:46 am, "vincent.thiernesse"
<vincent.thierne...@wanadoo.fr> wrote:

Hello,

I wish to buy a SAD1024.

Could anyone help me ?

Regards

Vincent

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=ICs+Delays+and+Echo

 

[Eeyore]

"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9A62B0A528AC8zoodlewurdle@140.99.99.130...

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:frh07t$u3f$1@aioe.org:


"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:g0mnt3l8hpjqptc7mlk6bl9u7pabi09jk8@4ax.com...
On Fri, 14 Mar 2008 23:51:51 -0800, "Eeyore"
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:


"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:ur0mt3dsuf7neqrlkjbpslfbs0j3ebjpqc@4ax.com...
On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 23:11:07 -0800, "Eeyore"
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

No DumbAss....... You don't know shit,
because you speak within the limit of a radiation of your shit.
See what I mean PussyFace?

---
You're not Graham, little girl.

As bad as he might sometimes be, he towers over you and at least
represents himself as what he is instead of what you do, which is to
sneak around pretending to be whom you're not.

Kind of like a virus trying on different protein coats, but without
the sophistication needed to really pull it off.

--
JF



Shut up oil robber..... Your evil will is returned to you isn't it?

---
We pay for every drop of oil we get, so it's you who's the robber,
you miserable little shit, stealing someone's name and lying about
who you are.

Fucking coward.
--
JF



You paid for the foolishness of your DumbFuck president Shiteater.
Your
whole family are so blind!! Just like you DogAsshole, Don't you see?
the
big tragedy is heading your way dummy....

Graham






Piss off, troll, I decided to add weight here too, I don't care if you
abuse
my name, people here know your smoke by now and will know the
difference,
especially as I deliberately steer clear of this crap most times if not
all.
Only reason I'm making an exception is to really piss you off. Obviously
no-
one in control of your feed is going to stop you unless it gets REALLY
out of
hand, so in this case, feed the troll! Feed it till it gets so fat that
it
can't get through the gate that will eventually get too narrow for it to
fit
through. This is now the best chance of stopping you, short of totally
ignoring you, and as most people here do exactly that without success,
it
seems that unusual tactics are called for. Once you shit on enough
people
you'll get stopped, so we'd best be accelerating that process.

Long shit eater, bla...bla..... whatever but you're still the Dumbfuck of
all 99% Dumbduck out there paying the prices for the foolishness of your
stupid leaders. Your leaders are smarter than you, they know how to blame
on the outsiders.

Graham